One autumn day, my friend and I went camping. It was already cool and by the end of the day there was a little snow. At a halt, we got lunch, and Sanya began to warm up the food on a gas burner. Unfortunately, the gas ran out, and we only warmed up the food a little. We started talking about burners and my friend told me about the wood chip stove. It became interesting to me to look at such a miracle of technology. Upon arrival home, I opened the Internet and asked the know-it-all Google. The more I looked, the more I was surprised. Everything is done very simply, roughly speaking, this is an ordinary container into which oxygen is blown from below, thereby enriching our fire. Everything is very simple, as such an idea did not occur to me before, I probably just did not set a goal. I look through the pages and see that people make pretty good options themselves. There are also purchase options, one of them is the Airwood Light BM turbo-draft stove.
Don't get me wrong, this is not an advertisement. For me, this is just a sample for another homemade product. Of the minuses for me was: a high price tag and the location of the fan and motor close to the fire, although the blades are iron. Having thoroughly examined the design of both purchased and various home-made ones, one nuance was not clear to me. Why does the useful air from the turbine crash into the inner solid wall? Here's what I found from the seller:
“A feature of the Airwood Euro BM model is also that the space between the two walls of the stove (between the combustion chamber and the outer casing) is actually hermetic, that is, all the air from the injection unit (blowing) is guaranteed to be supplied to the combustion chamber.”
Maybe it is so, according to YouTube videos, it heats water well and is only a couple of minutes inferior to gas.
The wall that confused me.
In my opinion, this is not good, I would try to make the air blow as much as possible from below. Still cold air will "crash" into the hot wall and deform the thin steel.
Okay, it's time to get down to business and check everything yourself.
Material:
Old unwanted thermos
Steel and aluminum rivets 3.2
thin wall pipe
Galvanization
steel bar
motor and wire
Bolts and nuts for 3
Tools:
riveter
Bulgarian
Boron machine
Metal shears
Screwdriver/drill
I found an old non-working liter thermos in the kitchen. Immediately thought, why not make a stove with it.
I decided to cut the thermos strictly in the middle. I think if one part does not work out, then the second one is so for sure :)
At this stage, my opinion is divided. If made from the top, then it will be inconvenient to throw fuel into a narrow neck. And if you use the lower part, then you need to come up with a mount for the internal combustion chamber. Eh, was not, I do from the top!!!
At the top of the thermos, the inner flask is already fixed, and all that remains is to make the bottom. To do this, I use a marker, a regular sheet of paper and metal scissors.
Paper is needed in order to accurately mark the boundaries.
We insert the paper, connect the leaves, and mark with a marker. In this way, you are guaranteed to have a circle marked evenly.
I cut with scissors.
I trim a little more along the edges and bend the bottom.
It turned out interesting, for fans of car tuning, you can attach it to the exhaust pipe :)
In the role of the bottom, I use thicker stainless steel.
I can't tell you the thickness, about 1.5 mm.
I cut with a grinder! Be BE CAREFUL with this tool, goggles are obligatory and change the wheel only with the machine turned off.
On emery I “finish” the circle.
I drill holes in stainless steel and attach the bottom with steel rivets.
I turn to the top of the wood chips and think over the design. It is required to make a windscreen and a stand for dishes. To turn an idea into reality, I do something like this. Cut a strip of galvanized steel
And bend it
I drill holes in a thermos and in a strip. Using steel rivets, I fasten the strip to the thermos.
Shinku connected end-to-end and riveted at both ends.
In the role of a windshield and a stand, I use galvanized all the tighter.
If anyone will do, then select the sizes "for yourself"
Here is such a windscreen and a stand I got.
There will still be holes, you will see in the photo below.
Since I wanted to make everything compact and convenient, I had to take a steam bath with the search for a suitable pipe diameter for blowing. I planned to hide the pipe inside the wood chipper.
Well, here's something more or less suitable. I took this thin-walled pipe from a broken floor fan.
Also there was this thing.
I bent it under the body of the wood chipper.
I decided to fix the pipe to the body of the stove using this connector :)
The pipe is fixed firmly and does not fall out.
Mark the inner circle with a marker and cut out the circle.
The photo shows that I sawed a little of my pipe fasteners to the stove.
I cut out a circle with my burr machine and a small circle. Uhhhh, the stainless steel "ate" as many as two mini circles. I drill holes and attach an “air adapter” to steel rivets.
I nevertheless made it so that at least a little the bottom of the inner chamber could be seen. The version of hermetic entry of air into the combustion chamber confused me a little.
Looks like a hookah :)
Motor and its mount.
Although the pipe is far from the fire, I still decided to make the blades from galvanized steel.
Connected to a voltage of 3V and checked the airflow. For such a baby, it blows quite well.
I made the motor mount from two galvanized tires. To do this, you need to cut two tires of the desired size.
I solder the wires and fix the motor in the tires. I use regular aluminum rivets.
For fastening in the pipe, the shank must be bent. We cut off the unnecessary tire.
We drill holes in the pipe and mount the motor. I drilled with a drill 3 and fastened with a bolt and nut.
Just in case, I decided to make a universal stove. What if you forget the batteries or the wire breaks, anything can happen. Therefore, I am making another adaptation (I don’t even know what to call it) for natural blowing from below.
As always galvanized.
To make the wood chip stable, I use a chrome-plated steel bar
I fold on one side.
I cut a shank for fastening the bars.
I cut the shank into the necessary pieces and rivet the rod.
I bend and check my idea.
I insert the galvanization all the way, and a gap for air is obtained. It is desirable to put it on the leeward side. The wood chipper stands confidently and does not stagger. The holes I mentioned above are also visible.
If the dishes are wide, then you can insert them up.
The lid from under the thermos can be used as a last resort as a cup for heating water. A plastic liner, like a mini plate.
Words are words, but it would be necessary to test the chipper in real conditions. To do this, I went on a small solo hike in the local forest. My goal was to walk about 15 km and test my homemade wood chip stove. It was February 25, and in the morning it snowed and froze a little.
Maybe someone will like a couple of pictures of the morning forest.
Carefully! Traffic!
I once saw a topic on the Hansa about wood chip stoves. If someone has not seen yet, then here: Camping stove. I liked the design for an army bowler hat.
My hands itched wildly, I couldn’t endure any strength, I had to act. Moreover, the apocalypse of December 2012 was on the nose, and I had no stove. “What is life without a piano stove?” I didn’t have any stainless steel and I didn’t even know where to get it. An idea instantly came up - it is necessary to unravel the pan! There is nothing suitable at home, everything is either enameled or with convex edges. In addition, I would have to explain to my wife the missing dishes, stage a robbery, etc. Therefore, I bought a pan in the market. I took aluminum as an experiment, only 150 rubles. I tore off her handles, sawed off the bottom, cut it and got a strip of the size I needed. According to the pattern from the Hansa, I drilled everything, bent and riveted the bottom. It was cut from a piece of aluminum that I had. From the pan the bottom does not fit - not enough. But if you take a larger pan, you can only get by with it. Actually, this is what happened. 
Pros.
Easy. Well drilled, cut, processed. Cheap.
Minuses.
With a wall thickness of 1-1.5 mm. The construction is still soft. You can literally crush it with your hands. I don't know how fast it will burn. Used several times. Brewed tea. There are no signs of deformation and melting, just a little bit of smoke and that's it.
By the way, when there was no gas at home, he put the stove on the stove. Inside, two tablets of dry fuel (not in me, but in the stove). On top of the pan. Easy and simple to make an omelet. Another tablet made coffee. 
Then I opened the Klondike. This is the place to find anything metal. I even saw the inside of a 1.5 meter (or so) ball valve there. This place is called "Point of acceptance of metal". There, my friend and I bought a sheet of millimeter stainless steel 1x0.6 m for 350 rubles. In the garage, they cut it with a grinder and made several stoves, slightly changing the design. The main difference from the previous one is a closed circle and an enlarged firebox opening from the end. Here's what happened. 
Pros.
More rigid construction. Doesn't lead. Definitely will not burn out in the next 100 years. Durable.
Minuses.
Heavy. Nothing to weigh, but more than half a kilo. Drilling is a pain. On the upper edge, you need to drill additional holes or raise the pot. Otherwise, it blocks the outflow of hot air and the flame becomes smaller, and there is more smoke and soot. I put the pot across the stove. It burns so well. In 5 minutes, a full pot of water boils at +25 overboard and a light wind. The stove must be placed on stones or damp sticks. Otherwise, the legs cut into the sandy soil and it sits on the bottom. If the sticks are dry, they light up before the pot boils.
Now I often ride bikes out of town with my wife. They took the stove with them. In a small backpack, a stove with a kettle, water, crackers or bagels for tea, and so on. In general, I decided that such a stove is good for a motorcycle car, but I need it easier. Well, you need to make changes to the design once again. You can't keep rationalism in yourself!
There is a strip of stainless steel 0.4 mm. thick. But somehow it's a pity to experiment. I decided to try first to make a galvanized stove. She is 0.3 mm. This time he did things a little differently. I drew a pattern on thick paper. Cut out the bottom. I glued all this and tried it on a bowler hat, at the same time marking the mounting holes. Then everything was transferred to galvanization. Cut out and drilled out. A step drill is the best for this. 
I bent everything, tried it on a bowler hat, marked the axes with a marker (just in case, for control). Assembled the design on the bolts. And again tried on the bowler hat. No infection! Too tight. I re-drilled the holes, put it back together and it's fine. Finally secured everything with rivets. 
Changes.
Drilled a series of holes in the top. Slightly widened the opening of the firebox. Reduced diameter. This stove sits quite tightly on the pot. On the previous ones, there was a gap between the walls of the stove and the pot about 5-7 mm. I did not make holes for the pins on which the bowler was placed. I made coasters from a wide blade of a hacksaw. They are inserted from above into small grooves, and on them is a bowler hat. The top edge of the wood chips bent 5 mm. for more rigidity. I did not make legs, as on the previous ones. From 3 mm. electrodes bent legs for the stove. They are inserted through the bottom and out through the side walls. The stove has risen higher, but is more stable. If you put on stones - the legs are not needed. If you notice, where the bowler has loops, the strip of metal on the stove is not cut off, but twisted into a tube. If you fix the cables with hooks (as in the author's design), it will be possible to couple the bowler hat with the stove and hang the entire structure on the handle.
Pros.
Easy. It is done on the knee in 2-3 hours with the simplest tools. Compact - does not go beyond the dimensions of the pot. Doesn't rattle or rattle. Does not conduct when heated.
Minuses.
The metal is thin. For how long, I don't know. If enough for the season, we can consider the labor costs fully justified.
The other day my wife and I went out of town. The stove passed the test perfectly. Photos are attached. 
Surely someone would like to make such a chipper. I share a hack. Here is a link to the Yandex disk. If something is not clear, ask.
A couple of tips.
Mounting holes are best drilled on one side only (in the drawing on the right). And then outline the already opposite ones on them, bending the workpiece along the bowler hat. The bottom is exactly the same. Due to the curvature of the bottom, it is very difficult to calculate all the holes. In any case, I didn't succeed. Therefore, we first drill on the blank of the walls, then we bend the petals and through them we drill the bottom. It is better to rivet each hole immediately, then drill the next one. Well, watch out for the coincidence of the axes. I made a bottom pattern by tracing the bottom of the bowler hat with a pencil and then adding another couple of millimeters. Folding it across, you get the centers of the sides of the bowler hat.
A few words about laying the kettle.
In running order, the bowler weighs about a kilogram, maybe a little less. I sewed the cover myself. 
Tried different designs but settled on a simple drawstring bag. It's more comfortable for me. The photo shows the contents of the cauldron. 
Left to right, top to bottom. Wood chipper. Bowler hat. 2 stainless steel mugs 300 ml. Rag for wiping dry mugs and bowler. 3 dry fuel tablets wrapped in newspaper. There are matches and 2 chirkash from the box in a jar of photographic film, pasted on a piece of a wooden ruler. Plastic jar with sugar. Tea package. Stands for a bowler hat from a hacksaw blade. Lighter. Salt in a container from a syringe. Knife with completely knocked down overlays (to reduce weight). Aluminum teaspoon. And the mutant is a homemade spoon fork. Split gloves. Legs from electrodes for the stove.
The canvas on which everything lies is laid on the bottom of the cover. Gloves on the side. Everything else is in the pot. Pot in the oven. The stove in the package and in the case. Cover in a backpack. Matryoshka, damn it.
There are different styling options. With different mugs, with a can of stew, with cereals, for one, for two, etc. But this is a separate issue, talking is not talking over. Already and so "a lot of bukaf". I spent half a day on this writing. “Not for self-interest, but for the good of the tokma!” Thank you for your attention to everyone who has read this far. Criticism, advice, suggestions are welcome.
"May the force be with you!"
Addition. January 2016
For several years I have been using the stove described above - the flight is normal. Nothing burned, fell off, was not lost. The only minus revealed during operation in cold windy weather is the lack of wind protection of the kettle itself. In the process of inventing how to remedy the situation, the idea of a stove with wind protection for a round pot was born. Everything is described in detail in this article -
If you like outdoor recreation, away from the bustle of the city, then you have probably already come across such a convenient device for heating food or water as a wood chip stove. However, its scope is quite wide. For example, if you have a dacha, but you rarely come there, then there is no need to build a full-sized stove. In this case, a chipper would be an ideal option. You can leave it at the cottage, or bring it with you and then pick it up. Wood chips, thin tree branches and so on are used as fuel here.
Do-it-yourself wood chip stove - important points
As you can see, this is really a very convenient option for a camping stove. Moreover, the wood chip stove is easy to make yourself. In this case, you will need:
- the most minimal skills in working with metal;
- appropriate tool;
- raw material.
You can make such a stove even in the garage, as they say, there would be a desire.
Everything is quite simple here - the main thing is to provide good traction. If everything is done correctly, then such a stove will be economical in terms of fuel consumption, while giving maximum thermal energy.
There are several options for making wood chips at home. Here is one of the most common - a rounded oven. To make it, you will need tools:
- pliers;
- file;
- a hammer;
- punch;
- drill;
- scissors and a hacksaw for metal.
First you need to prepare the material with which you will work. For the manufacture of 
stoves, in particular, you will need a steel sheet with a thickness of 1 to 1.5 millimeters. You will also need to take 3 engraving washers, nuts and bolts. And finally, steel wire. By the way, it is quite possible to replace it with bicycle knitting needles.
Next, we mark the sheet according to the template, cut out the shape and make all the technological holes. To bend it, we use a hammer, inflicting neat blows. In this case, the main thing is not to overdo it. You can give the stove body the desired roundness using a metal pipe of a suitable diameter.
The bottom of the stove is part of the metal scan. It is cut with an allowance of 1 centimeter. After that, the bottom is inserted into the resulting cylinder. Holes should be made in the side parts of the case - they can be of any shape. Now you need to install a grate in the upper part of the wood chips. For its manufacture, we use the previously prepared wire.
Here is another, fairly common version of the manufacture of a camping stove in the shape of a tetrahedron with dimensions of 12 × 12 × 15 centimeters. To do this, we need the same tools and materials as in the first case. Next, we create a scan of the future furnace on paper, transfer the drawing to the metal and cut out the structural elements. It should be noted that such a stove will be collapsible, respectively, it will not take up much space during transportation. Holes for studs must be made in the lower and side parts of the walls and on all sides of the bottom. The latter are made of steel wire. It is with their help that the structure is assembled into a single whole. The grate for the stove is also made of wire.
The design can be slightly complicated by adding additional stands for heating water, frying meat, and so on. The manufacturing principle here is approximately the same as in the previous version. However, there are some peculiarities. In particular, the side walls are attached with any movable hinges. Furniture hinges work very well here. One of them needs to attach the bottom to one of the walls. At the same time, a stopper must be installed on the opposite side - this will increase the reliability of fixing the lower structural element. To prevent the flame from breaking through, install a shutter on the wood chipper door.
The wood chip stove is suitable for use in cases where it is not possible to heat water in the traditional way, cook food, keep warm while on a camping trip, fishing, in the country and in other places. Its main advantages:
- ease of assembly and operation;
- compactness;
- light weight construction;
- variety of fuel types;
- heating speed.
Peculiarities
The furnace body is assembled from small steel sheets, which have slots and holes for air access in the lower part, the walls are inserted into each other through the grooves. The design has a bottom and is raised above ground level so that surface moisture becomes not such an important condition for maintaining fire, this also helps increase air circulation and increase combustion temperature. The upper part of the walls is solid, performs the function of wind protection. They connect the walls of the partition structure (rods or grate), on which the pot, mugs or products for cooking are placed.
Not only chips are used as fuel, but also small firewood, small branches, brushwood, bark, cones, spirit lamps, dry compressed fuel, sawdust briquettes and much more. All this allows you to use wood chips in places where there is little firewood, as an alternative to gas burners.
Due to the small design and air supply through special holes, the fuel burns quickly and efficiently, heating the necessary objects.
It is safer to use a wood chip stove than just to make a fire on the ground, especially in a place not equipped with a fire pit. Such a furnace cannot fully compete with gas burners, since gas can be used in places where vegetation is completely absent and One bottle is enough for several times of cooking. A do-it-yourself wood chip stove is an economical version of purchased counterparts.
Can stove
One of the simplest options is a wood chip oven made from a large tin can. To create, you only need a used can, in which holes are cut for air intake, a small firebox for fuel. This design is suitable for heating only a mug of water using dry fuel or wood chips. A similar design is made from metal cutlery dryers, because their shape is similar and already has holes for ventilation.
Read also: We make a tandoor from a brick or a barrel
Folding wood chipper
To create this type of stove, you will need to make more efforts, you need to start with a design drawing. As a sample, you can use the schemes of ready-made industrial options. When the drawing is ready, you will need to find a suitable material for assembly, it is best to use stainless steel sheet, thick aluminum. You will also need tools: grinder, hammer, drill, emery.
As a rule, the design includes four side panels, a bottom and additional elements: top stands for cooking, a firebox, etc.
Anyone interested in the topic of light camping stoves, wanting to make a wood chipper with their own hands, is faced with the problem of choosing a material. The first question is what to make a wood chip from? Of course, a lot depends on the design of the stove, for example, it can be made from an ordinary tin can of a suitable size. But now we are talking about designs for which this option is not suitable.
Galvanization
You can’t make a stove for an army bowler hat from a tin can - the size is small and the shape is not the same. Best of all for such a wood chip, some kind of sheet metal is suitable. The most accessible material is galvanized sheet. It comes in different thicknesses. For example, I have one galvanized stove 0.33 mm thick, and the other 0.6 mm. Both stoves proved to be excellent in work and even a thinner stove did not burn out in a couple of seasons of use.
Aluminum
I made the very first stove in general from an aluminum pan))) I just sawed off the bottom of it, sawed the side wall and bent it as I needed. The food-grade aluminum for the stove turned out to be a little soft, but, in principle, the strength of this stove was enough for a liter pot, the aluminum did not melt and did not lead it anywhere, it just easily bent by hand, but drilling, cutting and processing it is very easy.
Stainless steel
Stainless steel is a much heavier material and very difficult to drill. The stove, made of stainless steel 1 mm thick, turned out to be very heavy, although quite durable. I would not carry such a piece of iron on a hike))) In addition, a lot of time was spent on drilling holes and processing edges. But stainless steel about 0.5-0.6 mm thick should be more acceptable weight and sufficient strength. Well, drilling it will, of course, be a little easier.
Titanium
Making a stove out of titanium would certainly be cool. But titanium is an expensive and rare material. I can't even imagine where you can find at least a small sheet of titanium in our city. Therefore, he did not try to make stoves out of it. According to rumors, it is also quite hard to drill. But on the other hand, the stove from it will turn out to be very light in weight and at the same time quite durable.
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More articles on the topic of wood chips: |
Where can I find metal for a wood chip stove?
This is where the difficulties begin. As a rule, sheet metal is sold in large sheets of two meters square. It may be acceptable in terms of cost, but you need quite a bit for the stove, what to do with the rest if you live not in a private house, but in an apartment?
The easiest way to get hold of a small sheet of tin or something like that is to go to an advertising workshop and ask for scraps. They gave me a whole half a square meter sign for free, from which I then made several stoves.
Also, all kinds of pieces of metal can be found at scrap collection points. This is literally a "klondike" for do-it-yourselfers - which is just not there. I bought a small piece of stainless steel there. You can take an old tank from a washing machine or a suitable size thermos, or maybe you're lucky and there is a small even piece of sheet metal.
