Beautiful aged furniture can bring an atmosphere of sophistication and harmony to your home. Under natural conditions, a tree ages under the influence of various natural factors - wind, rain, sunlight, etc.
But it is not at all necessary to wait a couple of decades for the purchased headset to acquire such a unique look. You can use special technologies for aging wood.
Benefits of aged wood
Aged furniture looks elegant and stylish in any interior.
Aged wood is a beautiful, durable and functional material from which various pieces of furniture are made: tables, chairs, beds, chests of drawers, etc.
The benefits of aged wood are as follows:
- The surface does not require special treatment, if desired, it is enough just to cover it with varnish.
- The effect of aging allows you to give any piece of furniture an antique look.
- Natural wood pattern looks unique and inimitable.
- Aged wood furniture will look harmonious in any interior.
- This material is environmentally friendly and anti-allergenic.
- Aged wood is reliable and durable.
- Finally, furniture made from this material will never go out of fashion.
What kind of wood is best to age?
Suitable for aging soft wood or material of medium hardness. It has a brighter texture. This requirement is met by spruce, larch and pine. The breeds presented are distinguished by the fact that they have soft fibers. In spring and summer, annual rings form on them most quickly, causing the fibers to become “loose”. Species such as beech and maple are not suitable for aging, because their texture is weakly expressed and almost uniform.
Training
Before aging a tree, its surface must be prepared
Before you start aging wooden furniture with your own hands, you need to conduct a quality preparation of the surfaces that you plan to process. To do this, remove all defects and dirt. These may be traces of fat and other stains. If this is not done, obsolete pollution will appear after applying a tint coating to the tree. Also remove old paint or varnish and dismantle excess fittings that interfere with antique processing.
Ways
When the preparatory stage of the robots is done, proceed to aging. First, decide on the technology that you would like to age the furniture with. There are the following options:
- Coloring;
- Craquelure;
- Surface brushing;
- Stain processing;
- Wood processing with special chemical compositions (olding technology);
- Application of gilding;
- Achieving a lime effect (liming technology).
Let's look at each of these ways of aging a tree in more detail.
Coloring
Wood aged with staining technique
If you want your wooden furniture to look worn, you can use the staining technique. Choose a base tone that will show through the top layer of paint.
For the base, you can use any color, as long as it is more saturated than the auxiliary.
You can also use color mixed with white paint and a water base. For the second layer, it is better to use light shades. This combination of colors will create the effect of burnt paint. After the paint is dry, sand it down with fine grit sandpaper. This will remove excess paint. Sanding is necessary until the effect of worn paint appears. The main layer will come through it. The final stage of processing is varnishing.
Craquelure
You can paint the tree with craquelure technique. Simply put, create the effect of cracks on wooden furniture. You will need a special craquelure varnish. After applying the base color to it, the varnish will crack. The color of the cracks depends on the selected base. To add originality, you can use several colors at once. Craquelure is a good way to quickly give your wooden furniture an antique look.
Surface brushing
Wood aged with brushing technique
Brushing technology is a simple method of aging wooden furniture using a wire brush, fine sandpaper, a chisel and a drill. Before proceeding with the main process, you need to remove the top layer of wood. Brushing can be combined with surface painting. Use sandpaper and a brush to remove the top layer, and use a chisel and a drill to create furrows and wormholes. The brushing technique is most often used to age the floor and boards. After completing the main stage of work, cover the surface with oil, varnish or stain.
When decorating wooden furniture, it is important not to overdo it, because luxurious furniture can be turned into junk.
Good to know: Brushing is great for furniture made from hardwoods such as walnut, ash, oak and larch. This technique is contraindicated for maple, cherry, beech and teak.
Stain processing
Wood aged with wood stain
This technique is used in combination with others. Coating furniture with paintwork material will achieve the effect of staining. First you need to treat the surface, and then wash off part of the stain with a damp sponge. It is important to leave the edges, bends and cracks darker than the main part of the surface in order to emphasize the effect of aging.
If after the first time you were not able to achieve the desired result, just carefully sand the surface. Some areas can be repainted with a brush dipped in stain. To make the color more saturated, after completing the main stage of work, cover the wood surface with a primer or the desired color. At the very end, go over the surface with antique wax using a soft cloth.
Olding technology (treatment with special compounds)
Wood aged using the aging technique
Olding is a very interesting technique for aging wood. With its help, you can recreate the effects of fading, swamp moss, burnout, etc. Special chemical reagents will help to achieve amazing results. This technique is suitable only for hardwoods (oak, hornbeam, etc.).
This is interesting: If softwood is aged, it will simply become unusable after being treated with strong chemicals.
The final step will be the coating of the surface with varnish. It will serve to protect the surface.
Gilding
To qualitatively age furniture and achieve an antique look, you can use gold platinum. Applying gilding is one of the simplest procedures that does not take much time. Just completely paint the furniture in the chosen color and wait for it to dry.
Useful information: Gold paint must be applied in a thin layer. Only then the furniture after painting will look perfect.
Laiming
Wood aged using the laming technique
Liming is the process of aging furniture with the help of lime effect. First, prepare the surface, degrease it. Treat the wood with a special pigment or paint. Paintwork materials will help to achieve any shade and texture. Apply paint along the fibers. So you emphasize the natural structure of the tree, and add the effect of "clogged dust" to the corners. For best results, it is advisable to apply the liming composition with a brush or gauze swab.
Useful information: When choosing a base color, do not forget that after drying it will look a little lighter.
Video. How to artificially age a tree with your own hands at home
Aged wood is one of the fashion design trends of this season. Using any of the techniques described above, you can easily give surfaces such an effect at home. Artificially aged furniture will harmoniously look in the apartment and fill it with comfort.
How to make an aged tree at home and give it a vintage look with your own hands? This article is dedicated to just such tricks! Artificially aged things look very stylish and harmonious!
The 7 methods of aging wood with paint that we will look at here are interesting for their simplicity and excellent end result. They also do not require the purchase of any expensive special materials or tools.
We will analyze in detail the following 7 painting methods:
This is a versatile technique that helps to give wood or wooden furniture an antique look. It can be used on both raw wood and already painted wood and furniture. Suitable for painting in one or more layers.
For example, this is the result obtained when painting white with this method (for a detailed guide, read the article "") 
Let's take a detailed look at how to paint a tree using this method, making three layers (brown, white and yellow).
Necessary materials:
- paint (brown, white and yellow)
- brush, candle, rag.
Step-by-step instruction:
Step 1: First coat of paint
- Decide on the color of the paint that you will take as a basis. This will be the first, bottom coat of paint, which we will apply directly to the tree. In this case, we use dark brown.
- Paint the wood with slightly chaotic strokes, without painting the surface completely and evenly.
- Leave until completely dry.
Step 2: Use a candle
Take a candle and rub it on the surface of the wood in several randomly chosen places(at the same time, press quite hard on the candle so that a clear trace of wax or paraffin remains on the tree).
- Step 3: Second coat of paint Choose a color for the next layer and apply paint (here we use white). At this stage, the paint can be applied evenly over the entire surface, and not in strokes, as with the first layer. Leave until completely dry.
- Step 4: After that, take a rag and wipe the surface, and with some pressure. Where wax has been applied, the paint will peel off the surface. If two layers are enough for you, then you can stop there, and if not, we move on.
- Step 5: Third coat of paint Repeat steps 2 and 3, but the last one is using a different color paint (here it will be yellow). After the paint has dried, you can apply a protective varnish. The latter is not necessary due to the fact that we specifically gave an old look, so if the paint starts to lag a little over time, this will not be noticeable.
2. Aging with wet paper
This method of giving the wood an aged texture is similar to the previous one with candles, only now instead of wax there will be wet paper(if suddenly there was no candle at home, then everyone certainly has paper).
Necessary materials:
- dye,
- brush, paper,
- a bowl of water.
Step-by-step instruction:
- Step 1: Attach the wet paper. Here, no base paint was applied to show the natural color of the wood. Therefore, we immediately take a sheet of paper, tear it into uneven pieces of different shapes and sizes. After that, dip each piece in a bowl of water and place it on the wood you are going to paint.
- Step 2: Apply paint. Having laid out all the pieces of paper, immediately start painting in the chosen color, that is, you do not need to wait until the paper dries.
- Step 3: Paint removal Then carefully lift each piece of paper off the surface. You can do this while the paint is still slightly damp, or after it has completely dried.
You can make several layers, for example, as in the previous method. To do this, follow the step-by-step instructions described there, replacing the wax with wet paper.
3. Texture with a dry brush "Loft"
This technique is great for creating an old and scratched look. The key to success here is just using a very dry brush. For example, old brushes with hard bristles are perfect.
Necessary materials:
- brush with stiff bristles
- water based paint.
Instruction:
This is what the process looks like:
- Dip the brush in the paint of your chosen color and leave as little paint on it as possible.
- Apply paint with quick strokes in different directions. Be careful not to get carried away and cover the entire surface.
This technique is also suitable for loft metal effect painting, for example, to create these faux zinc letters.
You can also combine this method by using sandpaper to remove some of the paint after applying each layer.
4. Painting with scrapers in the style of Provence
The result will be about the same as when using sandpaper. The difference is that sandpaper not only removes some of the paint, but also smoothes the surface of the wood if there were bumps in that place (which is not suitable if you want to keep the structure of the wood, leaving it as natural as possible). The second difference is that sandpaper is used only after the paint has dried.
Necessary materials: brush, paint, scraper (or any unnecessary plastic card).
Instruction:
- First paint the tree.
- After, How does the paint dry a little?(not completely dry, just a few minutes when the coating has already formed, but still sticky to the touch), take a scraper or old plastic card and scrape off some of the paint in some places.
ADVICE: If you're painting furniture, scrape off the corners and edges of the paint, because that's where it's most likely to come off with use. Thus, the effect of antiquity will look more natural.
5. Rinse method
This method for creating the effect of old wood is suitable for elegant furniture in a rustic or Provence style. It is best used on raw wood.
Necessary materials:
- paint, brush,
- water, rag.
Instruction:
- Apply a layer of paint and let it dry for a few minutes (as in the previous method, so that it is still tacky and not completely dry).
- After that quickly rinse the wood with water by gently wiping the surface with a cloth. The goal is to wash off some of the paint on the surface. Leave to dry. That's all!
For example, a table painted in soft green, after applying this method, looks just fine.
6. Method of painting with wooden blocks
This is a simple method that allows you to age wood or furniture using a block of wood.
Necessary materials:
- paint, brush,
- wooden block.
Instruction: 
- Dip the end of a piece of wood into the paint and run it across the surface to be painted.
- Apply as many colors and layers as you like.
Here, for example, they made one layer of pale blue paint.
7. Paint pouring method
This is a one-step method, suitable for all types of wood with a lot of texture on the surface.
Necessary materials: paint, scraper (or plastic card).
Instruction: You just need to pour a little paint on the surface of the wood and smear it with a scraper. Wait for it to dry and you're done!
After we've covered all 7 methods for painting antique wood, here are a few basic tips that you can apply to all methods:
- If the surface you are going to paint is was treated with a sealant, wax or varnish would be better polish it up a bit so that the new paint lays better.
- Feel free to experiment: you can mix and match these methods to create your own design style.
- First practice on some piece of wood or on less visible areas of the furniture (for example, on the inside of the cabinet door to be painted) before working on more visible parts.
And remember that the main thing here is your desire! Good luck!
- This is a long and painstaking process, consisting of mechanical processing of wood and work with paints and varnishes. This finishing method is associated with Leon42, a participant in the forum "House and Dacha", with naturalness, antiquity, folk culture.
According to Leon42, buy furniture and brush it with a metal brush - this is not yet aging it, but simply scratching or, at best, making a textured surface. Furniture bought in a store - made of lamellas and "skinny" - is not suitable for texturing, it looks rather sad and flawed.
leon42 believes brushed furniture should be rough and solid, able to capture the natural beauty of wood.
It is the superficial approach to the aging of wood, according to the forum member, that forms the opinion of many people about products processed using this technology as “furniture of fire victims”. Meanwhile, the combination of aged wood with metal, stone or ceramics in the interior is always a fashionable and stylish technique that allows all the inhabitants of the house to touch eternity and feel like in the Middle Ages.
Under natural conditions, wind and moisture, sun and temperature changes "work" on the aging of a tree. How to do what has been happening for many decades, in a few days?
Material preparation
For brushing, it is better to use soft and medium hard wood with a pronounced texture, such as spruce, pine or larch. In these wood species, soft fibers are formed, as a rule, in the spring-summer period, when there is an intensive growth of annual rings, and they are more “loose”.
Wood with a uniform and unexpressed texture like beech and maple is not suitable for aging.
Before working with wood, prepare its surface. Eliminate all defects and dirt, whether traces of sweat, grease or other stains that may appear during the application of the tinting composition. Process any products (small architectural forms, furniture, etc.) after disassembling: you will spend less time and can get it everywhere with a brush.
brushing
Brushing (English brush - “brush”), or texturing a tree is giving it a relief characteristic of old wood. At the initial stage, soft fibers are removed from solid wood. There are several processing options: light aging - a barely noticeable roughness is created on the surface, or deep and rough, when the depth of irregularities reaches 2-3 mm (for decorative elements, sometimes for rough furniture).
You can pre-treat any part, say, a ceiling beam, with an ax: make notches, trim the edges without fear of spoiling - no one but you knows what the result should be. In this case, you will receive a product with a deep microrelief of the surface and irregularities on it up to 20 mm deep.
Do not forget about the "traces" of the vital activity of bugs and worms. Simulate them before finishing with a drill or drill. You can also apply simple carving elements: pigtails, dragons, etc. - you will get "Scandinavian style".
Sanding: tools and brushes
At large enterprises, machines and automatic lines are used, where everything is provided - from the feed rate of the workpiece to a powerful dust removal system. For an ordinary summer resident, such equipment is expensive and, in general, an unnecessary pleasure. If you will do this type of work often, it is better to purchase a brushing machine. The most common and publicly available is Makita. The most economical and simple option is a “grinder” or a drill, preferably with the ability to adjust the speed.
The whole brushing process can be divided into three stages:
- Rough selection of soft fibers
- Grinding
- Polishing
Accordingly, each of them needs its own brush. At the first stage ( brushing) use metal (brushing). If you are making structures for the outdoors - a gazebo, a canopy, a fence, etc., then most likely this will be your only brush.
When processing with a metal brush, scratches can remain on the annual rings themselves, which are difficult to get rid of during further processing.
When working with kratsovka, you must adhere to the following rules:
- brush along the fibers, otherwise damage the annual rings and ruin the woody pattern;
- the speed of movement of the brush and the pressure should be approximately the same, otherwise pits will result;
- the light source should be placed on the side at an acute angle, directing the beam of light across the fibers - this way you can better see the surface to be treated;
- do not press hard on the surface, do not overload the engine, otherwise it may cause premature equipment failure;
- the speed of revolutions should not be higher than 3000, better - 2000-2500: the brush can quickly scatter;
- be sure to work with glasses, do not neglect protective gloves: pieces of wire from the brush can fly off several meters, injuring others;
- take care of respiratory protection and dust removal: during this work, even eyelashes are covered with “powdery mascara”, let alone the lungs;
- a new brush needs to be “run in”, otherwise it will strongly “wave” the workpiece, after a while it will begin to process the surface cleaner;
- work only in one direction (rotation), the reverse should not be turned on - this will “kill” the metal brush;
- the humidity of the processed wood should not exceed 15%, otherwise, instead of a textured surface, you will get a shaggy-hairy one.
When processing sustainable and hard wood (larch, oak), be sure to use dust extraction systems: the dust of these wood species is considered carcinogenic and can cause lung cancer.
If you want to get rid of lint and get a better finish, you will need another brush - plastic (nylon), or rather, a grinding disc made of polymer-abrasive material. The most common grain size is 120.
Abrasive brush - universal, characterized by a more delicate surface treatment. If you use this brush, you can do without a metal brush, especially if the item needs to be treated delicately or if you want to avoid the specific scratches left by brushes.
The principle of working with an abrasive brush is the same as with a metal one. It is better to reduce the speed to 1500 in order to extend the life of the brush. Dust when working with a plastic brush is finer and stickier, so do not forget about a respirator.
Surface treatment specifics:
- do not grind the edges-edges and corners of the workpieces, especially if you do not plan to varnish them later: they will cling and chip off;
- do not make a deep relief on the seats, table tops and other horizontal surfaces - they will make it difficult to clean the surface: spilled drinks, crumbs, etc. will clog between the fibers;
- in order to prevent clogging of dust and snags of a rag during cleaning, such surfaces must be sanded with an abrasive brush and fine-grained sandpaper.
The final stage of brushing - polishing or fine grinding: performed with sesal or other synthetic brushes. You can use fine-grained sandpaper, abrasive sponges, metal wool, removing dust from the finished surface with a wide brush and vacuum cleaner.
Finishing operations
At the final stage, tinting is done (changing the color of wood by several tones), patination (underlining the texture of wood with special compounds that penetrate into the pores opened during brushing), craquelure (the effect of cracking and drying out), and varnishing.
After brushing, the board will look like new, but with a textured surface. To give it an old look, it is covered with various compositions, dark colors look more natural.
It is the right play with the color of brushed wood that gives it an aged look. Areas with soft wood (pores or depressions) are unevenly painted in a darker color, with hard wood (ridges) - in a lighter color. Recently, options with light troughs and darker ridges have been popular.
The easiest way is to generously apply a dark stain and immediately wipe the area with a rag or a wide rubber spatula. In theory, stain should soak quickly into soft surfaces, but slower on ridges. However, this is often not the case in practice, so Leon42 I settled on a more complex method: after complete drying, the ridges are polished with fine-grained sandpaper. This method requires further processing with varnish or colorless impregnations, so the top layer that is opened remains without a protective coating.
Another option is to use paint in two contrasting colors: the surface is completely painted over with the first color, then the second is applied. While the last coat dries, run with a wide rubber trowel, removing excess paint and exposing the ridges of the first coat.
Proper texturing is a simple but messy, time consuming and unhealthy process.
As a result of difficult and hard work, you will get decorative elements that carry the beauty of antiquity and at the same time have high strength. Every detail, lovingly made with your own hands, will be unique.
According to the materials of the participant of the forum "House and Dacha"
Editor: Olga Travina
How to age a tree at home? This wood finishing technique is popular among gardeners, designers and self-taught craftsmen. With its help, you can make a unique interior and exterior design.
This article is intended for persons over 18 years of age.
Are you over 18 already?
How to age a tree: the main points
To add age to a tree with your own hands, you need to be able to work with natural materials and stock up on tools. Of the tools you need to have:
- metal brush;
- electric or manual planer;
- sandpaper;
- grinder.
In addition to the listed tools, you must also have dust protection equipment. It can be a respirator or goggles. Since there will be a lot of dust in the process of creating crafts, you should think about ventilation methods. It is advisable to carry out this work outdoors. If this is not possible, then the tree is recommended to be slightly moistened before abrasive processing. But before opening with varnish, it must be dried. Also, do not forget that it is absolutely impossible to sweep the dust formed from the surface with your hands in order to prevent the appearance of splinters. Hands also should not touch the surface in order to feel its relief. This can be done only after the complete removal of dust.
In the interior, this technology is used very often. It successfully combines with stone, metal and ceramics. Without it, Provence interior style is unthinkable. But then special painting of the boards is required.
Aged wood is used inside the house for steps, benches, as well as to create a designer lamp or chest of drawers. It can be used to make furniture, such as a table or chairs. It also makes unique boxes. There are many ways to use an old tree in the interior, the choice depends on the design style and aesthetic tastes of the owner.
An artificially aged tree should resemble as much as possible a natural one, which has been influenced by sunlight, wind, rain and other natural phenomena. Therefore, only hand tools and manual processing of the material should be used here, if possible. It is also important to choose the right varnishes and paints for the exterior coating. Today there is a huge range of those, so it is important to make the right choice depending on the desired result.
In order to achieve the effect of antiquity at home, it is first recommended to practice on a piece of wood. This will allow you to evaluate the result and avoid mistakes. For training, you need to take the type of wood from which the entire structure will be made in the future.
To make a beautiful and durable wooden structure with the effect of antiquity, it is important to choose the right type of wood. Coniferous trees are not suitable for this idea, as they contain resin, which interferes with the creation of the effect. It is also worth abandoning birch, cherry, maple, pear, juniper. It is better to pay attention to ash, larch, oak, wenge, merbau, dussia.
In order to properly make the effect of aging wood, you need to take old boards. They are the easiest to machine and absorb paints and varnishes well. It is desirable that they have knots. This will add even more beauty to the craft. If there are no such boards in the house, then you can ask your neighbors or acquaintances. Surely someone stocked these, but did not find a use for them. You can often get them for free. The young forest does not have many fibers, therefore it is difficult to process, it is better to leave it until the right time.
A master class on creating an aged tree can be easily found on the net. There are many videos and detailed descriptions of the process. So don't worry if you have no experience with natural materials at all. In just a few hours of studying the information, you can understand the essence of finishing and choose the easiest and most beautiful way for yourself.
There are many ways to create the effect of aging. Among them, there are the simplest ones, which take several hours, as well as more difficult ones, the production of which takes several days. Everyone chooses for himself, based on his stock of tools and the expected result. There are ready-made boards with the effect of antiquity on sale, but the process of creating them at home is much more exciting and pleasing.
How to age a tree with paint?
Painting is a mandatory part of all ways to create an aged tree. If paint is not used, then the outer layer is covered with a colorless or colored varnish. This is necessary to protect the outer layer and give a beautiful texture. Translucent glaze "Belinka" - the basis on which you can apply other layers of paint. It covers the surface after machining. Before coating with varnish or white paint, the surface must be treated with a soft brush to give relief. A colorless varnish is applied to a slightly dried paint. Thus, wood with a slight effect of antiquity is obtained. It comes out light in color and without gross damage.
If you like aged aggressive effect, then you can not do without multi-layer painting. Also here you should expose the boards to all kinds of damage: beat with iron rods, scrape, make holes with an awl. If you want to completely achieve naturalness, then you can make wormholes, but this option is suitable for the most daring and creative.
Wood, painted several times, acquires a deep color. Pinotex is often used for priming; it unevenly covers the surface. It also serves to create a thick color to the lowest layers of the board. After it dries, it is necessary to make minor damage to the surface and proceed to further processing.
Usage white paint is welcome in some cases. It will help create crafts in the spirit of Provence and give a beautiful shade. Since it can give a glossy sheen, it is recommended to dilute it with white spirit.
How to age a tree in Provence style?
To create an interior in Provence style, you can not do without old white boards. They have a very different purpose: they are used for shutters, for furniture or steps. After the main coating with a primer, the surface is covered with white paint. It does not have to be applied in an even layer. After drying, you need to walk with a brush to further achieve the effect of antiquity.
Loft involves the use of gray aged boards that resemble concrete as much as possible. They can be made gray using acrylic paints of the desired shade.
How to age a tree with your own hands in white?
If you need to paint the board gray, then you can do without paints. The chemical method of aging involves the use of alkaline agents or ammonia. When using this method, you need to take care of your safety: wear a mask and gloves. After treatment with alkali, the future product can be covered with a film to reduce the drying rate. When the craft dries, traces of alkali should be removed: for this, it must be rinsed with vinegar and brushed. The last stage is the coating with a colorless varnish.
How to age a tree using decoupage technique?
To make cracks on a product using decoupage technique, the surface is processed step by step with special paints. For the first layer, you need to take paint that will shine through small cracks. Next, you need to apply craquelure varnish on the dried first layer. It should be applied in a thick layer. After waiting for almost complete drying or speeding it up with a hairdryer, you need to apply the top layer with confident strokes. For small cracks, it is recommended to dilute acrylic paints. Craquelure on the craft can be considered ready after the paint has dried (30-40 minutes).
How to quickly age a tree?
The fastest way is the heat treatment of wood and subsequent varnishing. A blowtorch or burner will help you achieve the desired effect very quickly. The top layer of burnt must be removed to facilitate staining.
How to age a tree with a patina?
Aging wood with ammonia is a cheap way to get a patina effect. You can also use special paints with gold, bronze or silver particles to refine the wood. You can also achieve a patina with a stain. It is used for full or partial patching. The stain will protect the wood from moisture, fungus and mold. Of the minuses of its use, only one can be distinguished - the result is only a dark color.
aged wood effect
Imitation of sun-damaged and rain-damaged wood is popular for decorating country houses and modern apartments. You can’t do without such wood when creating certain styles in the interior. It is successfully used for the design of facades.
Brushing is a unique technology that allows you to age and structure wood. This solution provides an opportunity to give new wooden products an aged noble look. More and more people prefer to create a unique interior in a house or apartment using wooden finishing materials. As a rule, a tree that has a more aged look looks very noble and luxurious. But not many people know that even new wood products can be given the luxury and nobility that a tree acquires after many years of operation. In this article, we will take a step-by-step look at the brushing master class.
Increasingly, when decorating the interior of a house, they use wooden products, beams, ceilings, doors with the appearance of aged wood.
Tools for casting wooden products:
- Grinder or electric drill with nozzles;
- Iron and abrasive brushes;
- Bulgarian;
- Wide brush for varnish and oil.
Stage 1. Rough wood finish
We take a wooden blank, in our case a board made of soft wood. Next, using a grinder and a special disk on wood, we make shallow notches, as shown in the photo below.
As a rule, this processing of wood by a grinder will already be enough for its further use on ceilings or in places where a person cannot touch it with his hand, since in this case, during the initial processing, burrs remain on it.
Stage 2. Fine finishing
In the event that you plan to use wood after the casting process for window sills, doors, furniture and other interior items, then additional wood surface treatment will be required. First of all, you need to slightly smooth and level the surface of the wooden product. For this we will use a metal brush. It is worth noting that it is necessary to work with such a brush on the surface without much effort so as not to spoil the already finished wood structure.
First of all, it is necessary to install an iron nozzle with a coarse fraction on an electric drill. As shown in the photo below, we carefully go through the entire processed rough surface of the wooden blank without undue effort.
It is worth noting that iron brushes are used to smooth the surface of a wooden product, and burrs are removed with abrasive nozzles. Thanks to this, the aging of wood looks not only plausible, but also safe for humans, since the surface of the wooden product will be perfectly smooth without burrs.
Stage 3. Surface treatment with abrasive brushes
After the entire surface has been passed with an iron nozzle, we proceed to a fine finish with abrasive nozzles. When working with abrasive nozzles, you should press hard to carefully remove all burrs on the wooden workpiece.
Stage 4. Finishing
After preparing the wood for finishing, you can use glazing or treat the surface of the wooden product with drying oil, oil, stain, varnish.
In the photo below, the wooden facade of the house has been glazed.
Oil coating allows you to get the effect of "aged" wood. To do this, we need a regular brush and wood oil in the interior. It is best to choose dark-colored oils, in which case wooden products will look more noble. We carefully cover the entire surface of the product with oil.
Stage 5. Giving the effect of "aged" wood
In order for the dark recesses to remain dark, and the light ones to remain light, we will need to treat the surface of the product immediately after impregnation with oil. To do this, we take an ordinary cotton rag. By carefully wiping the entire surface of the product with a rag, we create a visual effect of “aged” wood, as shown in the photo below.
