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A warm attic is not only a place to store inventory, but also a 20% reduction in heat loss at home! Do-it-yourself attic insulation in a private house will save a lot of money, especially since the whole process does not require special building skills.

Warm and moist air from the lower floors of the house, according to the laws of thermodynamics, rises. From the correct insulation of the attic will depend on whether all the heat goes outside, or stays in the house. Hydro and vapor barrier films will help to solve the problem with excess moisture.

First of all, you should decide on the further operation of the attic. If you plan to make it heated, you do not need to insulate the attic partition, as well as organize vapor barrier from the lower floors. In this case, it is necessary to insulate only the roof.

Roofing cake from inside to outside will look like this:

  • vapor barrier - a vapor barrier film for rooms with forced ventilation or a vapor barrier membrane with a minimum vapor permeability to remove excess steam from the room;
  • insulation - can be anything, but with vapor permeability higher than vapor barrier;
  • waterproofing - a simple waterproof film for non-hygroscopic insulation or a windproof film with one-way vapor permeability for moisture-accumulating insulation.

If the attic is non-residential, it is necessary to insulate the attic floor itself. To reduce the level of humidity in the house, do not use impervious films and insulation, allowing moisture to evaporate through the attic. And so that moisture does not spoil the rafters, condensing on the inside, you need to choose anti-condensate waterproofing for metal roofs and ensure good ventilation of the cold attic.

Private construction is increasingly characterized by the use of mineral wool rolls or basalt slabs. All thanks to:

  • simple installation - due to different densities, mineral wool can be wrapped around pipes, rolled out on the floor or installed in a wall frame;
  • high vapor permeability - steam-saturated air calmly passes through the mineral insulation, without lingering in it and providing natural ventilation at home;
  • good sound insulation - dense basalt slabs perfectly muffle sounds;
  • accessibility - you can buy mineral wool at any hardware store, and the variability of shapes and sizes will allow you to choose a heater for any need.

There are also disadvantages - mineral wool loses its properties when wet, therefore, a dew point should not be allowed to appear in the insulation and moisture can be unhindered from evaporating from the thickness of the plates and mats.

Foam insulation is also quite popular, because it:

  • relatively inexpensive;
  • easy to install;
  • does not lose properties when wet;
  • has low thermal conductivity.

But due to the lack of vapor permeability, houses insulated with polystyrene foam get the effect of a greenhouse and must be equipped with forced ventilation. If condensation forms between the foam and the wooden elements, this leads to the rapid decay of the wood.

Sprayed heaters are convenient for quick and dense filling of hard-to-reach places. Ecowool, made from cellulose, is vapor permeable and allows wooden structures to breathe. It is convenient to use for warming small attic spaces.

But ecowool is afraid of getting wet, and its use will require special equipment for blowing.

Polyurethane foam is a strong and durable material that is not afraid of moisture, suitable for warming large rooms. But, like any polymer insulation, it does not allow steam and air to pass through, so it is not recommended for wooden houses. Thanks to the development of the construction industry, PPU insulation now does not require the use of special equipment, since cylinders have appeared that work from a construction gun on the principle of mounting foam.

Attic insulation technology

Depending on whether the attic will be habitable, the technology of its insulation also depends. For a warm attic, only the roof is insulated, for a cold attic, only the attic floor.

Insulation of a residential attic with mineral wool or foam plastic

If the house has already been built and you don’t want to dismantle the roof, this can be done from the inside:


After that, you can start finishing the attic and begin to settle in!

A cold attic in a wooden house can be insulated with a minimum of cost and effort using ordinary sawdust. This method will improve the microclimate in the house due to natural ventilation. To do this, it is important to ensure maximum vapor permeability of the attic floor:

  • cardboard should be laid on the subfloor - just to prevent sawdust from falling through the cracks;
  • a layer of sawdust 15-20 cm thick is poured;
  • in no case should sawdust be covered with waterproofing - they should be freely ventilated;
  • the floor is laid with a small gap between sawdust and boards.

How to properly insulate reinforced concrete attic floors is described in detail in the video:

Proper insulation of the attic of a private house will allow you to use this room as a living space. In addition, cold air will not enter the lower tiers through the ceiling, which will significantly reduce energy costs. Next, consider the main canons of this procedure.

Thermal insulation of the attic of a private house with the help of backfill materials is the most ancient method. Since ancient times, sawdust has been used as a heater, contributing to a good preservation of a comfortable temperature in the room. Until now, this technology finds its application, because it is implemented by hand without problems. We will talk about it and other options below.

Backfill insulation is used mainly for floors of interfloor ceilings. Of course, it is possible to use them for thermal insulation of the ceiling, but such a procedure will be difficult, because it will be necessary to build a frame. Therefore, it is better to use this category of materials for their intended purpose.

Before starting the main work, you will need to prepare the surface, namely:

  • Remove old floors (if any).
  • Clear everything from debris and dirt.
  • Create a crate. To do this, you can use bars 4 × 4 in size. They should be placed in increments of no more than 50 cm for the floor, and within 1 m for other parts.

"Grandfather's method" - sawdust

Let's start with the most ancient insulation - sawdust. This material has a lot of disadvantages - low moisture resistance, poor thermal conductivity, etc. However, even today people insulate attics with it. The reason is simple - it's the cheapest (sometimes even free) option. This method can be safely recommended for residents of the southern regions, where there are no frosts. For such a climate, there is no need for high-quality insulation of floors.

Tip: sawdust can be taken for free (or for a symbolic price) at any large sawmill.

Thermal insulation with sawdust is carried out in the following sequence:

  • We make a thorough revision of the floors for the presence of cracks and cracks. To prevent cold air from entering the main room through the attic, they must be sealed. Previously, clay was used for this, but today you can use more advanced compounds: sealant, cement-sand mortar, etc.

Important! If the gaps between the floors are more than 2 cm, it is required to re-lay the boards.

  • Then we sprinkle the entire space with slaked lime with carbide. There are several functions of this layer, but one of the main ones is protection from mice. It's no secret that rodents appear in many private houses (especially in attics). However, this composition will effectively scare them away.
  • Now we fill the niche with sawdust - they must be dry and without debris. The recommended layer thickness is 20 cm.
  • Then it is necessary to process sawdust so that they cease to be combustible: we spill it with slag mining, or we process it with flame retardants.
  • We close the logs of the attic with boards or plywood.

Linen

This is another insulation from the old days. However, now you can find improved analogues that have many advantages:

  • Ecological cleanliness - only natural ingredients are used in its production. Working with your own hands, a person does not risk getting skin irritation (unlike using, for example, glass wool).
  • High efficiency. Excellent technical characteristics make it possible to make the house as protected from the penetration of cold air as possible.
  • Easy to use.
  • Variety of forms - factors. Flax is not only loose, but also in the form of rolls or slabs. This allows you to use it to finish the house from all sides (floor, ceiling, walls).

The process of attic insulation with flax is practically no different from the use of sawdust. The only difference is that the prepared surface must be covered with kraft paper. Such a measure will increase performance and protect against the influence of natural factors (mold, fungus, etc.). If you do not intend to completely insulate the roof, then you will need to close the logs with a vapor barrier layer (for example, a membrane). For fastening, we use liquid nails glue or a construction stapler.

The most effective technique - expanded clay

Above were considered budget options that can be recommended only for residents of warm regions. To reliably protect the attic of a house in areas with a harsh Russian climate, it is necessary to use better and more effective methods. Among backfill materials, expanded clay is the best. This is a porous material that is obtained by firing clay (or its shale). It is lightweight and has an oval shape. Regarding the form of release, fractions are distinguished: 5-10 sand, 10-20 crushed stone, 20-40 gravel.

Important! Expanded clay implies the use of a screed, which promises a significant weighting of the structure. Therefore, this technology can be used only if the floors are strong enough.

Expanded clay is laid as follows:

  • Align the rough base (if necessary). Height differences of more than 1 cm are not allowed.
  • We lay the film, of any thickness, the main thing is that there are no holes.
  • We pour a pillow (no more than 10 mm) of gravel.
  • We scatter expanded clay over the entire area and level it. It is very important to achieve uniformity. For convenience, you can use a laser level.
  • To avoid shifts of expanded clay to the side when pouring the mixture, first pour the liquid solution.
  • If you are going to use the attic as a full-fledged living space in the house, it is necessary to provide additional strength to the screed using a reinforcing mesh. We lay it on a liquid solution.
  • We install beacons to determine the evenness of the future coverage.
  • Pour a thick solution and level it with a rule. Our coating will be ready for full operation in 7-10 days. Until this time, it is undesirable to bring any heavy objects into the room.

The described technique is the most effective in its class. However, it is characterized by impressive spending. In addition, a serious load is created on the floors (wooden houses may not withstand it). Therefore, it should be used only if the attic is planned to be used as a living space.

We analyze roll and tile options

This type of material can be used to decorate the house from all sides. However, we will consider the roof (in our case, the ceiling) and walls. Preparation of the rough surface is the same as for the floor. That is, it is necessary to remove old materials, clean and create guides.

For lovers of environmental friendliness - ladders made of algae

This is a unique material, because it is the most environmentally friendly in its segment. Due to the presence of iodine, mice do not start in it. In addition, it is not subject to biological factors (mold, fungus, etc.) and does not rot. In terms of their performance, the ladders are not inferior to their synthetic "brothers" in anything. They are not afraid of water at all, so there is no need to create a moisture protective layer. Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. We evaluate the ceiling and walls (if any) for the presence of cracks and close them up. If they are small, we use sealant or similar materials. In more serious cases, you will have to add corrugated board.
  2. We attach ladders and fix them on large building brackets. Even the smallest cracks should not be allowed to form, otherwise the ceiling will let cold air through.
  3. We close the attic structure with boards or plywood.

The most common material is stone wool

This is a more advanced analogue of mineral wool, with improved technical characteristics. Today it is most often used to protect houses from the cold. The installation method is practically the same as described above. However, there are some nuances:

  • Cotton wool on both sides must be covered with a vapor barrier film. We fix it to the ceiling with brackets or glue. We fix the closing part on the logs.
  • If during the preparatory operations you will fill the bars (acting as guides for the ceiling and walls), we recommend that you first purchase a heater and make the distance between them the same as the width of the roll.
  • Laying must be done joint to joint or even with a slight excess. The malleability of stone wool allows this to be done.

To mount on the ceiling, you will need an assistant who will support the roll.

Modern and high-quality method - foamed polyurethane foam

This is a complex polymer that has excellent technical characteristics. With their own hands, such technology is implemented quite rarely, however, it needs lighting. In this case, a similar mounting foam is poured. The foamed substance sets quite quickly, as a result, a monolithic structure is created.

In addition to high thermal insulation characteristics, polyurethane foam gives high sound absorption, as a result, rain drops on the roof will not be heard.

For application, you will need a special spray installation (it is because of this that few decide to use polyurethane foam with their own hands). However, it can be rented. So, the work is done in the following sequence:

  • We clean the ceiling and walls from dust and dirt. Otherwise, the sprayed substance will not adhere well.
  • We cover all wooden elements first with an antiseptic (if possible, then on both sides), and then with a deep penetration primer (only for wood).

Important! When working with a sprayer, do not forget to use a respirator and gloves

  • After waiting for the complete drying of the protective compounds, we spray the foamed substance with our own hands. We do this slowly from the bottom up.
  • After waiting for complete drying, we cut off the excess with our own hands (if any) and close the ceiling and walls with any sheet material (plywood, drywall, etc.).

To achieve maximum protection from the cold at home, we recommend combining the methods described above.

When providing insulation for a private house, one must not forget that special attention should be paid to such a place as the attic.

Warm air tends to rise to the top, and therefore, in a temporarily unheated room, heat can escape through the space of a cold attic. Therefore, the issue of attic insulation must be addressed without delay.

1 Why is attic floor insulation necessary?

Insulation of the cold floor of the attic with stone or mineral wool, by and large, is necessary in little used premises, which are properly equipped with special roof ventilation.

The attic, or rather its ceilings, perform the function of a kind of boundary between heat and cold. In such places, attic floors are exposed to intense moisture due to the formation of condensate.

However, it is possible to properly insulate the floors in the attic of the house with mineral wool with your own hands. The very process of insulating the floor in the attic with mineral wool is the creation of a durable thermal insulation coating, which will have a low degree of thermal conductivity.

The very technology of insulating the floor with mineral wool in the attic, as well as implies strict adherence to its stages and requirements.

By itself, this technology is quite simple and understandable. Good thermal insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool helps to close unwanted gaps.

To do this, the insulation must be laid tightly. In most cases, mineral wool is used to insulate the attic of a house.

The presented insulation is the most suitable for this type of work, it can also be used to insulate the floor surface in the living quarters of the house.

With the organization of good insulation with mineral wool, the most optimal temperature will be maintained in the living quarters.

If the procedure is not performed correctly, then moisture rising from the floor of the house will lead to the formation of condensate.

It will accumulate on the ceiling, and then seep through the floors. The resulting temperature difference in those areas where attic floors adjoin the walls of the house initiates the formation of mold and microscopic fungi, which can be the causative agents of allergic diseases.

1.1 Attic insulation requirements

The process of insulating the attic floor and, more precisely, the level of its quality has a direct impact not only on the size of heat loss, but also on the duration of the operational life of the entire truss structure and roofing.

The fact is that the water vapor inside the heated room diffuses to the attic of the house. In order for the applied insulation to provide a high degree of calculated efficiency of the heat-insulating layer, it must always be dry.

Based on this, the insulation must be protected from excessive moisture by vapors of ascending heated air using a special vapor-tight material.

If the attic is well insulated, then it will not only provide high-quality thermal insulation, but will also help to increase the operational life of the entire roof structure.

If there is no vapor barrier, then steam will penetrate through the unprotected floors of the attic and condense on the surfaces of the floor.

This will lead to the fact that moisture will drain onto the rafters, which, under its influence, will slowly begin to rot from the inside.

As a result, the probability of destruction of the entire roofing pie increases. The thermal insulation performance of the structure is also reduced due to the fact that the tightness of the vapor barrier layer has been broken.

Before you insulate the attic, you need to drain the layer and remove moisture from the entire attic space. To do this, ventilation should be done through windows. They can be:

  • Skating like;
  • eaves;
  • slotted;
  • Auditory.

In order to ensure maximum ventilation intensity, the indicator of the total area of ​​​​all ventilation openings should be equal to 0.2-0.5% of attic floors.

If all the work is carried out correctly, then in the winter, icicles will not form on the roof. The process of warming the attic space is carried out not from the living quarters, but from the floor of the attic.

So it is most convenient to lay insulation, the choice of which depends on the technology used and the design features of the structure.

1.2 Features of insulation of beam ceilings

When implementing such an insulation scheme using mineral wool, heat is stored in the space between the beams. Their usual height is almost always enough for this, however, if necessary, several bars are stuffed on top.

The lower part of the overlap is sewn up with the help of molded material as with. For this, lining or drywall sheets can be used.

On top of the beams, a subfloor covering is laid. It can be a tongue-and-groove board, plywood sheet or OSB board. Mineral wool is adjusted to a special vapor barrier prepared in advance.

An alternative to it can serve as an ordinary film made using polyethylene. If the vapor barrier material is foiled, then it is laid with a shiny surface down.

The intermediate distance between the beams is filled with mineral wool with the desired thickness parameters. The surface of the beams must be equipped with an additional insulating layer.

This will block the so-called cold bridges and significantly reduce the overall level of heat loss. If a high quality beam was used to create the beams, then the finishing material will spread directly onto their surface.

Mineral wool is placed between them as with, and the attic floor is laid on top. The use of this technology is especially important in houses that are made of logs or beams.

It is important to protect the mineral wool with a high degree of reliability from the ingress of the smallest drops of moisture, this is especially true if the roof has minor coating defects, due to which leaks occur.

The layer of mineral wool must be reliably protected from the effects of wind from the side of the eaves. For this, mineral wool slabs with a high degree of density are used.

2 Why is mineral wool used for attic insulation?

In most cases, when insulating attic floors, the choice of the consumer falls on mineral wool. Its advantage lies in the fact that its installation does not require special skills.

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation properties. Its structure consists of thin vitreous fibers, the length of which ranges from 2 to 60 millimeters.

High soundproofing characteristics are provided due to the presence of a large number of air pores.

These pores are located in the space between the fibers and can occupy 95% of the total volume of the insulation. Mineral wool is presented in three varieties, it can be basalt glass and stone.

Basalt wool is made using molten basalt rocks, to which binders are added.

This may be a carbonate-type rock, which regulates the level of acidity of the substance, which entails an increase in the service life of the insulation. Glass wool exhibits high heat-resistant properties and is able to withstand temperatures up to +450 degrees Celsius.

2.1 Technology of insulation of attic floors with mineral wool

During work related to mineral wool, it is important to comply with all safety requirements and regulations.

This is due to the fact that in the process of cutting and laying such material, the air is filled with tiny particles that can enter the respiratory organs and thus cause harm to human health.

When carrying out installation, be sure to take care of the availability of personal protective equipment. Goggles, a respirator and thick rubber gloves should be available.

The process of warming attic floors begins with the selection of the necessary tools and additional materials. Can't do without:

insulation

  • Boards and plywood;
  • vapor barrier film;
  • Mineral wool (excellent);
  • Waterproofing;
  • adhesive tape;
  • Roulettes;
  • Knife;
  • Construction stapler;
  • spatula.

The essence of the insulation technology lies in the fact that the insulation must be carefully laid in the space between attic floors or beams.

To enhance the thermal insulation qualities, reliable vapor barrier should be used. Warm and moisture-saturated air will continuously rise from the living rooms and go up through the ceiling.

There, in the roof space, he will collide with a layer of insulation. Due to the fact that mineral wool is generally recognized as a vapor-tight material, it will take all the outgoing moisture into itself.

If it is left without the necessary access of air and sunlight, it will gradually shrink and, in the end, will lose all its heat-insulating qualities.

In order to avoid such destructive consequences, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material under a layer of mineral wool.

Before starting the main work, it will be necessary to carefully calculate the required amount of insulation.

The amount of wool purchased depends on how many layers you plan to use when covering the attic. In addition, the thermal insulation thickness parameter directly depends on the climatic conditions in the region.

2.2 Proper insulation of the attic floor (video)

A large amount of heat escapes through an uninsulated attic, for which money is paid. As a result, the room temperature does not rise, and utility costs rise. The only way out is to insulate a cold attic with inexpensive building materials. If you have time and extra money, you can insulate the roof, but this is not necessary, because it is enough to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic and all the heat will remain in the room.

Why is attic insulation needed?

If the attic is not insulated, the likelihood of mold growth in the room increases.

The floor area in a private house is equal to the ceiling area, through which most of the heat escapes. In a cold living room, more moisture is formed, so the likelihood of fungus formation increases, which leads to respiratory diseases in the future. The most unpleasant sensations occur in the bathroom, the floor and walls in which do not have time to dry out, discomfort is created, in addition, the cold in the bathroom contributes to colds when there is a sharp change in temperature. Children in such conditions are more likely to get sick.

Insulating materials, for the most part, drain water well, so when insulating, condensate will not accumulate on the walls. Warm air dries out excess moisture, while the walls and floor warm up.

If the roof slopes and the gable are insulated, moisture will not form in the attic and the smell of mold will not be heard. This is a more difficult job, but doable, as the materials are light in weight.

It is best to carry out work on the insulation of the attic with your own hands, so as not to spend extra money on wages. It is necessary to choose a heater according to technical characteristics, calculate its quantity and lay it according to available technologies. All work may take 1 day.

Materials for thermal insulation

In the market of heaters you can find both natural and artificial materials. Their difference lies in cost, efficiency, service life, thermal conductivity.

Mineral wool

Basalt wool

Mineral wool or its varieties - glass wool, basalt insulation, slag wool - are characterized by an increased coefficient of thermal conductivity due to the structure of randomly arranged fibers. Cold air in winter does not penetrate into the room from the outside, and in summer it is cool in it, since the cotton wool does not allow the air streams cooled by the air conditioner to pass through.

  • The material does not crumble and does not cause an allergic reaction. You can work with stone wool without protective equipment.
  • Service life is about 50 years.
  • Mineral wool from volcanic rock comes in different densities - you can choose the appropriate option for any region, including the coldest.
  • Basalt wool is a lightweight material, so one person can handle its installation.
  • Mineral wool from basalt does not burn. It can be melted at very high temperatures, so the attic will be safe.

Additional advantages of basalt insulation is the reduction of the noise level in the room, since sound waves cannot pass through the layer of air that is among the fibers. At the same time, the denser the material, the smaller the air gap and the more sounds it transmits, so the insulation can be chosen with average thermal conductivity and sound insulation.

Basalt insulation can be used to insulate the chimney, then even more heat will remain in the room where there is a stove or fireplace.

When using glass wool and slag wool, you will have to wear a protective suit, goggles and gloves, as thin fibers break and can get into the respiratory system, eyes and skin. These materials are also non-combustible, but melt at much lower temperatures. In this case, the material loses its structure and useful properties.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam does not weigh down the ceiling structure, but has a low strength factor

Insulation of the attic in a house with a cold roof can be done using foam. This material also has advantages:

  • Low weight and cost.
  • It does not emit harmful substances when heated, therefore it is chemically neutral and safe.
  • Contains a flame retardant that does not support combustion.
  • Microorganisms and mold do not start in the foam.
  • Does not weigh down the structure of the ceiling.

Of the shortcomings:

  • Low coefficient of strength, therefore, additional protection of the material is required in the form of boards laid on top supported by logs. This will require additional costs and time.
  • The material does not allow air to pass through, so dampness and condensation may form in the room.
  • Rodents that are found in private homes damage the foam, build burrows out of it, so additional coverage is needed.

Styrofoam is used most often for outdoor work under plaster. As a heater for an attic in a private house, it is not profitable - it requires large investments to protect the material itself.

Styrofoam ceiling insulation in a house with a cold roof is more profitable from the inside, but it can lower the ceilings.

Penoplex (expanded polystyrene)

Thanks to the spongy structure, foam is easy to cut

Penoplex insulation is made from granules of synthetic material polystyrene or expanded polystyrene. This is a heater, which is a porous structure with separately located cells. Cells do not touch each other, which on the one hand is a positive quality, on the other - a negative moment. The fact is that polystyrene foam does not pass moisture well, it will accumulate inside the room, causing dampness.

The advantage of polystyrene is its cost and small thickness. The air inside makes up 98% of the total volume of the material, which is why it is so cheap. Compared to stone wool, the thermal conductivity is lower. To achieve good thermal insulation, it is necessary to buy polystyrene foam of greater thickness, which will cost more.

Penoplex is combustible, therefore, in terms of fire safety, it is absolutely useless. The melting point is 75 degrees, so it can not be laid next to heating appliances. In the attic it can be a chimney from the stove.

polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam

In terms of service life, as well as heat-retaining characteristics, it is worth paying attention to polyurethane foam, which is applied by spraying. In this case, there is no need to build logs for laying mineral wool or expanded clay, save money by purchasing cheap fragile materials.

In a short time, you can create a monolithic floor in the attic, in which rodents will not settle, mold will not start, and cracks will not appear. When using polyurethane foam, you do not have to buy additional vapor and waterproofing.

Expanded clay bulk

Expanded clay is resistant to ignition and exposure to a humid environment

You can insulate the attic with expanded clay. This is a durable material that is used in bulk with prepared cells. If you need to move around the attic, you will have to build a floor on wooden logs from above. Advantages of expanded clay:

  • strength;
  • durability;
  • does not absorb moisture;
  • retains heat well;
  • passes air;
  • can be used in combination with other materials, which is preferable.

Most often, expanded clay is combined with mineral wool or polyurethane foam is sprayed onto it so as not to waste time building a frame.

Thermal insulation layer thickness

To insulate the attic in a house with a cold roof, you can use heat-insulating materials of any density, since the room is not residential. If you plan to lay mineral wool on the roof slopes, you can prepare a material of lower density and thickness, since as a result the ceiling insulation will be double, but laid in two places.

For ease of movement on soft insulation, it is necessary to build paths made of wood or other material so as not to violate the properties during compression of the heat-insulating layer.

Preparing the attic for insulation

Attic ready for insulation

Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and the amount of building materials. The main thing is the thickness of the insulation, which is needed in the middle lane, where the temperature can drop to minus 30 degrees. The thickness of the mineral wool must be at least 20 cm.

After calculations:

  • Remove all debris and dust so that the seal does not absorb it.
  • Seal the cracks in the roof with construction foam.
  • Remove sharp objects. They can damage the protective layer of cotton wool.

After cleaning, you can bring in building materials, tools, as well as an additional lamp for illumination.

vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is a must when working with mineral wool

According to the laws of physics, warm air saturated with steam will always rise up, passing through walls and ceilings. This process is called diffusion.

Different materials have different degrees of vapor permeability. High resistance to the diffusion process can be provided by the formation of condensate or the accumulation of moisture between floors. In such places, floors are usually made of wood, and wood, saturated with moisture, loses its strength.

When the lower room is warming up, and the upper one is cold, a vapor barrier is a must. In the case of stone wool, you can buy a material with a hydrophobic coating that will not allow steam to pass into the cold room above, where water droplets form from it.

In technical documentation, there are two concepts: steam resistance and vapor permeability coefficient. These are different concepts.

To organize the vapor barrier, two materials are used - a film to cover the entire area and adhesive tapes to connect the layers of hydrophobic insulation so that steam does not penetrate into the cracks.

The characteristics by which the vapor barrier is chosen should take into account strength (plastic film is not suitable), UV resistance, since the sun's rays sometimes enter the windows, which can damage materials.

Waterproofing

Installation of a waterproofing layer

To protect the attic from flooding, and ceilings and repairs from water drips, it is recommended to lay a layer of waterproofing material on the roof slopes.

  • Built-up - overlapped and connected with a burner. The cheapest option is synthetic materials.
  • Sprayable. A solid film-membrane is created.
  • Powder. Water is added to it immediately before installation.
  • Liquid - suitable for concrete floors, soaking into their surface.
  • Coating on a bituminous basis.

Before you buy waterproofing, you need to re-read the properties: the material must pass air, but retain water. Some cheap films create a greenhouse effect in a cold, unheated attic, causing mold to form on the walls.