​Related Articles​

What is the value of honeysuckle

Varieties Sibiryachka, Silginka, Roxana are very good. I also like the Morena variety.

I advise dwarf honeysuckle, it is non-bitter and large in size

How to grow honeysuckle in the garden

Honeysuckle is worth planting in your area just because it gives tasty, healthy berries. And its excellent decorative qualities will be a nice bonus.​

Planting and caring for edible honeysuckle

Before planting, organic and mineral fertilizers in the pit are thoroughly mixed with the top fertile soil layer. In the center, a recess is made with a shovel into which a bush is planted. The roots are straightened in different directions, sprinkled with earth and carefully trampled. After planting, the plants are watered (8-10 liters of water each), and then mulched with peat or topsoil. Honeysuckle prefers open sunny places, but can also withstand light shading. It grows well on any soil, but develops better on loose and drained slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5). Too dry areas, as well as closed hollows, are considered unsuitable for planting. Planting period from spring to autumn. It is only not recommended to plant honeysuckle during the period of active growth of shoots, this is May - June.

Honeysuckle The blue spindle has a weak fastening of the stalk and crumbles, therefore, during fruiting, it is better to put a non-woven material under the bush, which allows the plant to breathe, but is an excellent bedding for fallen berries. The berries are sweet, with a barely noticeable bitterness in the aftertaste. The body accepts the first harvest of summer with gratitude.

• Edible honeysuckle has more than 200 varieties. They are divided according to different indicators:
• Anti-aging care and planting of edible honeysuckle can occur by dividing the bush. This will require a saw and an ax, because the wood of the shrub is very dense. The plant is considered to have taken root if shoots from the root started from it after a year.
• Plant propagation is carried out in several ways:
• Among the many priceless fruits and berries grown in gardens, cultivated varieties of edible honeysuckle occupy a special place. Her bushes delight with the annual harvest of the first summer berries. The shrub is not afraid of frost up to 50 degrees, and the flowers are preserved even with return frosts up to 8 0. It is important to ensure the development of the plant in early spring with moisture, and the harvest will be.

Take a closer look at the varieties of Czech selection, their climate is milder and the warm period is also long. Maybe they suit you better. I don’t know if there are honeysuckle breeding centers in Ukraine, but if there are, then it’s better to look at your local varieties.​

Honeysuckle for harvest is planted next to several varieties ...

Honeysuckle grows in the north of the plot, what is better to plant next to it to the south?

The size of the pit for planting honeysuckle depends on the development of the root system of the seedling.

Honeysuckle loves well-lit areas with loose soil

Planting and caring for honeysuckle in a permanent place

Before planting, honeysuckle bushes are prepared. Carefully inspect, removing broken branches and roots. Long roots are shortened to 30 cm. It is necessary to plant very carefully so as not to damage the kidneys. The bush is placed in the center of the pit on a fertilizer hill. The horses are evenly spread over a fertile mound and covered with earth. It is advisable to compact the soil around the planted plants. When watering one bush, one bucket of water is consumed. After watering, the soil is mulched with peat, humus. You can take the land from the aisles.

Honeysuckle Cinderella passed varietal tests and was registered in the register in 1983.

by maturity;

Green cuttings begin at the end of June, when growth has already ended, and lignification has not occurred. The tops of branches with three pairs of leaves are harvested. The upper pair of leaves is left, and the cuttings are planted obliquely in a nursery with a wet layer of sand and peat in a ratio of 2: 1, 20 cm in height of the layer. Recessed obliquely cuttings should take root in 2 weeks. They are planted in a permanent place only next year in the fall.

seeds;

Promising varieties of edible honeysuckle

In a season when there are so few vitamins, blue droplets begin to appear on a beautiful bush with pale tender greens that melt in your mouth. Yearning for natural berries, the body almost does not notice the slight bitterness of healing fruits. The well-known vital vitamin C is contained in the berry as much as in the lemon. Only lingonberries have more potassium in honeysuckle, and in terms of other elements and vitamins, it surpasses all known berries grown in Russian gardens. And the fruits contain all the vitamins and minerals that a person needs in an optimal combination for absorption.

• Honeysuckle is a young culture. The first varieties appeared in the state register only in 1980. Therefore, honeysuckle has such a nuance: the same variety in different regions and different climates manifests itself differently.
• I planted a "duet", in the fall, like all trees. subscribed to the newspaper "Selsky Vestnik".​
• Andrei, if your honeysuckle grows well, then plant a blackcurrant or barberry nearby. They are good neighbors and use the same soil to grow.​
• On light and fertile soils, when planting, honeysuckle can be deepened by 3-5 cm, which causes the formation of additional adventitious roots in the lower part of the shoot. On heavy soils and in areas with a high level of groundwater, the plant should not be buried, because. this will cause underheating and rotting of the main roots.
• Considering that this is a long-term crop (up to 25-30 years), it is necessary to fill the soil well when planting. 10-12 kg of humus or compost, 150-200 g of double superphosphate and potassium salt are added to the planting pit. Potassium salt and superphosphate can be replaced with complex mineral fertilizers: nitrophos (350-400 g) or Ammophos (300-350 g). When using fertilizers that do not contain potassium, its deficiency can be compensated for by adding wood ash at the rate of 400-500 g per plant.​

Plants do not need to be pruned after planting. Only in cases where the root system and the bush itself were damaged during planting, in this case 1/3 of the plant is removed.

The bush is distinguished by early fruiting, in the third year.

by crumbling;

Cuttings with lignified material begin in winter. Long cuttings harvested at the beginning of winter are stored in the snow or in the basement. They are planted in a ridge only in May, at an angle, leaving the upper bud above the ground. The cuttings are rooted for 2-3 years, then they are transferred to a permanent place.

cuttings;

Berries of all varieties of edible honeysuckle are a useful vitamin product.

Py. Sy.​

Kingdom of honeysuckle - video

glav-dacha.ru

Proper planting and care of honeysuckle

Several varieties need to be planted. From one harvest will not. I have Tatyana, Roxana, the Blue Spindle and the wild one from the forest. Planted in autumn and spring. They got along great. But these are our local Far Eastern varieties. But Bazhovskaya, discharged from Chelyabinsk in the fall, did not overwinter. I think it's better to buy zoned varieties. In terms of agricultural technology, it is problem-free. Does not give overgrowth. You can propagate by seeds (select the largest, sweetest ripe berries, put in a matchbox in the refrigerator, sow in February), layering - but I did not succeed. I bought seedlings, they fruited a little in the second year.

Thanks, Irina, but I still think about annual plants - watermelons, peppers, tomato, cucumber, etc.

Honeysuckle with a closed root system can be planted from spring to autumn inclusive. However, it must be remembered that transplanting during flowering has a detrimental effect on plants: the shoots wither and dry out, the flowers crumble.

Root system of honeysuckle seedling

If you suddenly needed to transplant a fruiting bush up to 5 years of age from one place to another, then it is better to do it in the fall. It will be necessary to dig a hole 70X70 in size and deep, add a double portion of organic and mineral fertilizers to it.

The bush is low, only 0.7 meters, propagated by seedlings, and is very decorative. The yield is impressive, 20 kg / ha, up to three kilograms per bush. The berries are large, black with a bluish bloom. The taste of the berries has a strawberry hue, the skin is soft, the surface is smooth. The bush is resistant to frost and does not lend itself to numerous pests. He loves it if they choose Amphora or the Leningrad Giant as his neighbors.

taste qualities;

The most crucial moment for getting a healthy productive bush is its proper planting.

OgorodSadovod.com

layering;

The shrub loves a well-lit place without close groundwater standing and with light soil. A cross-pollinating plant, so you should plant several plants of different varieties. Then the ovaries of berries will be much larger. Top dressing with organic fertilizers will add yield. He loves honeysuckle ash bedding, but he does not like chemistry. Only light top dressing with urea in the spring, even before bud break, is accepted by the plant favorably. Therefore, the cultivation of edible honeysuckle is a pleasant experience, with consistently good results.

There is no growth.

Site selection

Choose varieties that do not crumble. Our honeysuckle has never had growth. You need to plant several varieties for pollination. The plant is not whimsical, in dry weather we water and sometimes thin out the bush.

Andrey, from annuals you can plant anything you want. I have not heard that honeysuckle has any negative effect on melons or any other plants. And just in case, it is better to plant one or two more honeysuckle bushes for better pollination. The harvest will be greater.​

Soil preparation

The distance between plants during planting is 1-1.5 m from each other (strong-growing less often, weak-growing - more often), and between rows - 2 m. This is necessary for convenience when cultivating the soil, caring for the crown and harvesting.

planting material

It is necessary to purchase healthy planting material grown in specialized fruit and berry nurseries. And the varieties are recommended for a particular zone. Do not buy mature overgrown plants over 1.5 m high, because. they do not take root well and do not immediately begin to bear fruit. You should not buy too small (less than 20-25 cm high) rooted cuttings that have not had time to develop.

Proper planting and caring for honeysuckle are well reflected in its growth and fruiting.

Honeysuckle Bakcharskaya is famous as a variety resistant to shedding, and very productive. With beautiful large up to 1.4 grams, sweet and sour berries. This variety ripens later, but it is resistant to diseases and pests, drought-resistant. The sprawling bush does not thicken, it regulates the growth of green mass.

Planting honeysuckle

yield;

The plant should have loose soil filled with the necessary nutrition, which will allow the root system to develop quickly. Edible honeysuckle, planted and cared for in accordance with all the rules, will quickly begin to bear fruit.

dividing the bush.

The biological cycle of the bush begins with an early awakening. But the cessation of growth and lignification occurs in August. Question​

It is better to plant in the fall, because honeysuckle wakes up very early and starts to grow. In the spring it is difficult to catch the moment until it begins to vegetate, does not dry out and dies.

In order to have berries, you need to plant at least two varieties side by side, and preferably 3 She has cross-pollination

Thank you. Today the weather was at least where. Worked with passion. Perhaps I'll try to plant melons - the place is sunny there. But is it necessary to think of something with watering?

You should know that the peculiarity of honeysuckle is slow growth in the first 3-4 years. By the fourth year after planting in a permanent place, the bushes of most varieties reach a height of 70-80 cm, and a crown diameter of just over 1 m.

The optimal age of the seedling is 2 years. At least three different varieties of honeysuckle are planted on the site for better pollination, and therefore a high yield. Planting material can be with an open and closed root system, but the first one takes root better.

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Honeysuckle is a perennial shrub. Planting and caring for honeysuckle begins with soil preparation. Dig up the soil to a depth of 35 cm and remove the roots of perennial weeds from it. And before digging, distribute lime on the site, 400 g per 1 sq. m.​

garden.ru

Honeysuckle grows in the north of the plot, what is better to plant next to it to the south?

The size of the berries.

Irina, Bender

An important stage will be the preliminary filling of the entire plantation area with mineral fertilizers, since in the future feeding with fats is undesirable. Therefore, for continuous digging, you need to add 2 matchboxes of superphosphate, one potash salt and a bucket of organic matter per square meter of the strip. The landing site begins to be prepared two weeks before the due date, when the edible honeysuckle is transplanted to a permanent place.

Korskov Andrey, Vladivostok

The seed method is more often used in nurseries. In the process of growing, the bushes dive at a distance of 20 cm, grow and sell them at the age of three.

Sergey Kovalenko, Russia

Korskov Andrey, Vladivostok

Honeysuckle, of course, is great and tempting. And how do you grow and bear fruit currants? Still different regions... so different!

7dach.ru

South of Ukraine? I don't recommend planting at all! In Russia, it is believed that south of Volgograd, honeysuckle is difficult or almost impossible to grow. She has a short growing season, then she goes to rest on her own and quite early. In the southern regions, it comes out of dormancy before winter, begins to vegetate, and then its frosts kill it. Although the frost resistance of all varieties of honeysuckle is not lower than -46, this applies to bushes that are at rest. In our steppe sharply continental climate (Samara), in long autumns, it happens that honeysuckle wakes up and blooms in autumn, but it saves that not all plants bloom. Irina Shabalina has already answered very well about watering, and I have nothing to add to this. In addition to a small nuance - watering is not a panacea for the southern regions, where the warm period is longer than in the Orenburg region at Irina Shabalina or at me in Samara. Therefore, I do not advise planting honeysuckle in the south of Ukraine.​

Elena

Honeysuckle does not give growth. General care is like blackcurrant, it is moisture-loving, but it cannot stand stagnant water, we also have an arid hot climate - honeysuckle feels best under a constant thick layer of mulch - this way moisture jumps less. Honeysuckle is a cross-pollinated plant - it does not actually pollinate with its pollen and therefore it is necessary to plant at least two different varieties. You will have one problem, like ours --- after a long drought, honeysuckle with the beginning of autumn rains will come out of dormancy and decide that spring has come ---- it will bloom. But I noticed that if the whole season is well watered (not allowed to dry out), then the autumn flowering is canceled, in the worst case, some varieties produce a few buds, but this does not affect the overall harvest. There are many types now. Bakchar varieties are now considered the best in terms of yield, large-fruitedness and non-shattering (you can find it in a search engine), in general, when a variety turns up for purchase, try to find as much information about neo as possible. Until recently, I grew 6 varieties, of which I consider the Nymph variety to be the most delicious, now I have planted 8 varieties from Bakchar, but so far I can’t say anything which of them is the most...​

Tatyana Latypova

Water

1-2-year-old bushes are planted in pits, the size of which depends on the degree of development of the root system of plants. Honeysuckle roots are taprooted, densely branched. Therefore, the diameter of the pit must be at least 50 cm, and the depth - at least 40 cm.​

Mityai Bukhankin

Beautiful, tasty, healthy edible honeysuckle, or blue honeysuckle, as it is also called, will be a valuable addition to your garden. Learn how to plant it correctly.​

Ludmila Samoilova

Plants should be planted at a distance of 1.5 meters from each other. If you are planting in rows, then a scheme of 2 meters between rows and 1 m between bushes will do. The size of the pit for planting is 50X50 with a depth of at least 40 cm. Put fertilizer in each hole, this will have a good effect on growth in the first 5 years.

Svetlana Butorina

A good example of numerous varieties are the well-known Cinderella, Blue Spindle, Bakcharskaya. Their properties are described in detail, not because they are the best, but these plants are carriers of the defining characteristics that gardeners are looking for.

Olga

Pits are dug at a distance of one and a half meters, a depth of 40 cm and a width of up to half a meter. Two-thirds of the hole is filled with the upper fertile layer, the plant is placed on a mound, the roots are straightened, the stem is deepened to three centimeters, the hole is watered and mulched on top to prevent the formation of a crust.

The compatibility of fruit trees in the garden must be taken into account when planting plants. Failure to comply with the compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs leads to their oppression and death in especially neglected cases. The fruit yield in this case is also significantly reduced.

Compatibility table of fruit trees and shrubs

In order to simplify the task of gardeners, there is a special table of compatibility of fruit and berry crops during planting. It should be noted that the data of the compatibility table of fruit shrubs and trees in the garden may change in different weather and climate conditions.

What factors need to be considered

A fruit tree compatibility table is not always at hand. In view of this, it should be taken into account that the compatibility of fruit and berry crops is mainly influenced by the light of the sun. Trees planted close to each other should not obscure neighboring trees. Rhizomes of fruit plantations need to fully receive moisture and nutrients from the soil. Therefore, for a neighboring location, it is necessary to select such trees and shrubs, whose roots are located at different ground levels.

Fruit trees cannot grow without an adequate supply of nutrients from the air and soil. At the same time, compatibility rules require that there is no competition for food between different trees. Thus, the introduction of nitrogenous dressings can enhance the growth of some trees, while others can weaken flowering and fruiting, and significantly reduce the yield.

The compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs during planting can be reduced due to allelopathy - the release of special substances that inhibit or completely stop the growth and development of neighboring representatives. Usually, such substances act selectively, which allows you to properly combine crops in the garden and reduce the negative impact of this property to a minimum.

Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden

Let us consider in more detail the compatibility of each tree or shrub.

Pear

This tree has poor compatibility with all stone fruit crops, as well as walnuts. At the same time, there is information about the good compatibility of pear and peach. Best of all, the pear on the site is combined next to the mountain ash.

It is better to refrain from the joint cultivation of pear and juniper, since the latter shrub is able to infect the pear with fungal diseases. The pear releases root secretions into the soil, which can be toxic to cherries.

Most often, the pear is not grown alone. This is due to the fact that most varieties of this crop are self-fertile, that is, incapable of self-pollination. It is recommended to plant several pear varieties, or select varieties that have self-pollination. It should be noted that even self-fertile varieties bear fruit much better in the company of other varieties.

Gooseberry

This shrub has a high compatibility with red currants, so they are usually planted side by side. Blackcurrant is the main opponent of gooseberries, since both of these crops suffer from the same harmful insect - moth. Also, some chemicals that are widely used in blackcurrant treatments can provoke the development of diseases on gooseberries.

It is believed that gooseberries are successfully combined with plum and pear. When co-cultivating with raspberries, it is recommended to remove these crops from each other by 1.5 m. This shrub requires a lot of sunlight, so it is better to refrain from growing it next to tall and large trees that shade the area around it.

Cherry

Cherry grows well next to other stone fruits - plums, cherries, grapes. It is especially important to grow cherries and sweet cherries together if they are pollinators for themselves. She has poor compatibility with gooseberries and raspberries. With the joint cultivation of cherries and red-fruited mountain ash, the last tree is usually heavily affected by diseases. Between cherry and hawthorn, it is necessary to observe a spatial isolation of 4 m.

Important! Cherry is characterized by the presence of a powerful root system that lies superficially, therefore, with uncontrolled cultivation of the crop, its root growth can germinate in different parts of the garden.

garden strawberry

In the aisles of this crop, garlic or parsley is often planted, as well as spinach and bush beans. Vegetable crops protect berries from the negative effects of harmful insects and diseases due to the released phytoncides. Best of all, these plants repel the following pests:

• May beetle larvae;
• slugs
• bear.

Solanaceae and sea buckthorn are not recommended to be planted next to strawberries, as they are affected by common diseases. In particular, potatoes and tomatoes, along with strawberries, are damaged by the nematode. Due to this disease, garden strawberries also have poor compatibility with cabbage and cucumbers.

Garden strawberries are often planted next to plantations of coniferous trees. This is due to the availability of their needles, which are a good mulch for berry bushes. According to the observations of gardeners, this method improves the taste of the crop.

Sea ​​buckthorn

Theoretically, this shrub is compatible with fruit and berry trees, but in practice, sea buckthorn drowns out all plantations growing nearby. Sea buckthorn has long, powerful roots and a high reproductive capacity, which is why it should be grown with care. To limit its spread over the site, it is required to dig around the bushes with special barrier fences based on metal shields, roofing felt or slate.

Red currants are planted at a distance of 3 meters from sea buckthorn, and black currants - 6 meters. It is allowed to cultivate garden strawberries next to sea buckthorn, but this risks causing the development of the same diseases in both crops.

Sea buckthorn reacts especially badly to the location of raspberries in the neighborhood. Both of these shrubs have their roots in the same soil layers, which causes their strong competition for water and nutrients. Together with sea buckthorn, it is also better not to plant plants from the Solanaceae family. Near this culture, medicinal herbs such as oregano or chamomile feel good.

Currant

Red and black currants belong to the same species, but they are not planted side by side due to the fact that the first crop needs strong and rich sunlight. The culture is not planted near raspberries, as it will quickly drown out the currants.

The plant most incompatible with blackcurrant is bird cherry. The shrub suffers from a glass case, which usually overwinters on bird cherry. In theory, gooseberries can be a neighbor of blackcurrant, but in practice, joint plantings of these crops are rarely carried out due to the presence of common pests.

Apple tree

The compatibility of these fruit trees in the garden is low for all shrubs - next to it they will not be able to grow normally. They have a powerful spreading root system that will absorb water and nutrients taken from other neighbors.

Good compatibility in apple trees with raspberries. The roots of the shrub loosen the soil for the tree, saturate it with oxygen. Under such conditions, the apple tree will strengthen its growth, become more resistant to diseases and harmful insects. At the same time, raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree from gray rot. However, when the crown of the tree grows strong enough, the raspberries will stop growing due to lack of sun light, and this shrub will have to be planted away. In addition, picking fallen apples from thorny bushes is very inconvenient. For the same reason, gooseberries or blackberries are not planted near the tree.

Apricot, as well as other stone fruits, as well as a pear, are planted at a distance of at least 4 m from the apple tree. However, the main enemy of the tree is hazel, which is why both of these crops are recommended to be planted in different corners of the garden.

Important! If the land in the root sector of the apple tree is covered with weeds, it is allowed to plant a hosta or any other shade-tolerant ornamental plant there.

Sometimes an apple tree and a mountain ash are planted nearby, but it must be borne in mind that the caterpillars of the mountain ash moth destroy apples. In the root sector of the tree, it is recommended to plant wormwood or garlic to repel codling moth and other pests. For the same purpose, tomatoes or dill are planted there, but then it is necessary to refrain from chemical treatments of these vegetables.

Raspberry

Raspberry bushes do not get along well with most of their neighbors, destroying them with their powerful and aggressive root system, as well as absorbing moisture. This is especially true for shrubs. Therefore, raspberries are usually grown in rows, while trying to limit its growth. Closest to raspberries can be located gooseberries - about 1.5 m, as well as an apple tree (up to a certain point).

Grape

Grapes have good compatibility with most fruit bushes and trees, except for hazel and quince. It also goes well with green manure and some weeds (thistle, wood lice, stonecrop), which loosen the soil. The best neighbors among cultivated plants:

• beans;
• beet;
• strawberry;
• peas;

It is recommended to plant a rose near the grapes. Both of these crops are affected by the same pests and diseases, however, in roses, symptoms appear much earlier, which makes it possible to prevent the development of diseases in grapes in advance.

Compatibility of coniferous and fruit trees in the garden

Most conifers do not mix well with fruit trees because they tend to increase the acidity of the soil. Fruit bushes and trees react negatively to acidified soils. However, coniferous tree litter can be used as a mulching material for orchards.

In order to better familiarize yourself with the problem of the joint growth of fruit trees and shrubs, it is recommended to watch the video:

Conclusion

The compatibility of fruit trees in a garden is one of the most important factors when growing plants. Taking into account the compatibility of fruit trees with each other allows you to get high and high-quality crops of plants. The correct location of trees and shrubs can reduce the cost of chemical protection of fruit trees and fertilizing. A fruit tree compatibility table is a good help here.

Planting young animals begins with the preparation of pits. The exact location of the pits must be calculated in advance and demolished in a special landing scheme. When creating such a plan, it is necessary to take into account the minimum step between the fruit-bearers, as well as the compatibility of trees and shrubs in the garden. Only in this case, the laying of the garden will be crowned with success.

For optimal fruitfulness and comfortable care, the minimum distance between trees should be equal to the sum of the heights of mature trees. Even under the condition that the compatibility of the trees in the garden will be at a high level (all plants get along well with each other), it is not worth reducing the step between them. Too little distance between young growth in the future will lead to undesirable results (lack of sunlight, intertwined crowns, etc.).

The success of planting directly depends on the chosen places for seedlings. Therefore, it is advisable to draw up a diagram with professional gardeners. They will not only take into account the compatibility of trees when planting, but also carefully study the area (illumination, soil characteristics, water occurrence, etc.). Our experts will determine the best places for planting young growth, so that the future garden will bear fruit well and bring a huge high-quality harvest.

Compatibility of fruit trees with each other

First of all, when planting, it is important to estimate how the future fruit-bearer will grow. Despite the good compatibility of garden trees with each other, they will interfere with each other in the future due to the faster growth of one of them. Tall plants can simply block the access of sunlight to small trees.

Perfect fruit tree compatibility is achieved when planting plants of the same species: apple trees with apple trees, cherries with cherries, etc. However, the same type of garden in the yard is unlikely to bring much joy and pleasure. Experienced gardeners have noticed certain trends in the development of various neighboring crops (some get along 100%, others try to survive their neighbor). Especially for you, we have compiled a table in which we noted how certain trees can get along next to other plants.

Tree compatibility, table for successful planting:

Video tree compatibility

Neighboring trees in the garden are friends and antagonists. Allelopathy of fruit trees. Compatibility of fruit trees.

Today's article will be especially useful for those who are planning to start a garden, as well as those who have oppressed plants in the garden with weak growth and low yields.

Considering the factors of mutual neighborhood between plants, you can increase the yield in your garden. And also, by accidentally planting nearby plants that interfere with each other, you can get oppressed growth, poor fruiting and even death.

Article: Neighboring trees in the garden are friends and antagonists.

Amateur gardeners, especially beginners, plant plants on the site as they please, without taking into account the compatibility of fruit trees. Some plants can crowd out others and vice versa - be friends with each other, not interfering, but even protecting. At the same time, the consequences of not complying with the conditions of cohabitation can be sad.

The first thing to do before developing a site is to check it for the presence of geopathogenic zones. Geopathogenic zones dotted the entire territory of the Earth's surface. And if you get directly into the geopathogenic zone, then no matter what you plant there, you will not get a harvest. Video instruction is available in the training courses of Valery Zhelezov.

There are also natural indicators that indicate that it is better not to use this piece of land for growing fruit trees.

Natural indicators of land suitability for horticulture.

Indicators of land not suitable for gardening.

willow, sedge and alder.

Indicators of land favorable for creating a garden.

Maple, mountain ash, wild pear, wild rose, cereals, legumes. In this case, it can be expected that this site will favor the creation of an orchard.

Ideal compatibility of planting fruit trees - when each type of fruit trees are located on the site in one group. Apple trees with apple trees, pears with pears and so on.

All plants emit phytoncides - volatile substances. An example is mint. It is worth touching the leaf - the air is filled with a pleasant aroma. During rain or wind, when the leaves hit each other, branches - phytoncides are also released - they are washed off with water and enter the soil. The roots of each plant also release a huge amount of water-soluble substances and compounds. Among them are biologically active simulators that have huge impact on neighbors.

Fruit Tree Compatibility at a close location in the garden.

If you are planning a mixed garden, or you have a small plot, then you need to consider compatibility with other plants.

apple trees you can’t plant with acacia, horse chestnut, elderberry, black viburnum, jasmine, fir, poplar, lilac, rose, cherry, peach and nuts - walnuts, Tatar and, especially, Manchu (leaves fall to the ground, decompose and ruin everything). You can not plant common juniper - it can bring rust into the garden, which is almost impossible to remove. It will also spread to the gardens of neighbors (with a small summer cottage).

• The destruction of wormwood leads to a decrease in the number of aphids on apple trees.
• You can not plant potatoes in the aisles of apple trees.

The apple tree feels good with raspberries. Raspberries are a good nitrogen fixer and enrich the soil with oxygen. And it is very good when their branches touch each other. With this arrangement, raspberries will protect the apple tree from scab, and the apple tree will protect raspberries from gray rot.

The ash-leaved maple can save the apple tree from the codling. Protection comes from phytoncides that secrete leaves. It is not necessary to keep large maple trees - you can oppress them with annual pruning, leaving no more than a meter in height. Crush the leaves to highlight more phytoncides.

Apple and honeysuckle are conditionally compatible. If you plant an alternation of apple-honeysuckle-apple-honeysuckle, then this will be an overload.

Pear. It cannot be planted with the same trees as the apple tree. Especially with beech, barberry and stone fruits. The most harmful is the neighborhood of juniper, on which rust develops.

Pleasant neighbors for pears will be oak, mountain ash and poplars, in particular, black poplar.

Cherry cannot get along with apricot, black currant, raspberry and apple tree (separate varieties). You can not plant tomatoes, peppers and strawberries under cherries. All nightshade crops should be placed away from cherries. they are spreaders of the disease - verticillium wilt (wilt). With this disease, the core and wood inside the plant dies (the cherry has faded and withered).

Cherries are great friends with plums and cherries.

Barberry can suppress the development of any tree or shrub. Plant it away from fruit plantations. Barberry has some compatibility with honeysuckle and plum. The only enemy is juniper because of the same rust.

Example. Pears, when planted next to the barberry, could not fully bear fruit for 8 years. Flowering is plentiful, and the harvest is several fruits. When the barberry was removed, fruiting was restored the next year. It was so plentiful that it resembled a dying harvest.

Plum you can not plant near pears, raspberries, blackcurrants and apple trees.

Important! It is impossible to make mixed plantings of the western plum (the so-called Russian plum) and representatives of the Manchurian flora - Chinese and Amur, as well as their hybrids.

Black elderberry will help save the plum from aphids. Maple will also be a good neighbor for plums. It can be planted, but not allowed to grow, making constant shortening pruning. This will give an extra crop of plums.

Apricots. This is a typical southern plant, so in our gardens they don’t know how to plant it and therefore they don’t like it very much. Avoid planting near apple, pear, plum, peach, cherry, red rowan, sweet cherry and especially walnut. It does not tolerate planting raspberry and currant bushes next to it, which are carriers of pests. Apricot individualist.

Peach. Does not tolerate planting apple and pear. The minimum distance between them should be at least 4 meters. From cherries and sweet cherries, the peach will begin to deviate in the opposite direction. And the side that will be turned to the antagonist trees will be exposed. Numerous branches will gradually die and in a year or two the whole tree will die. It is very difficult for such a tree to survive the winter.

Cherries and walnut are lovers of loneliness, but they also lead to oppression of the peach.

Imagine the location of crops on your site and draw schematically on paper. Then check the compatibility of neighboring plants using the given data. To do this, you can download and print the plate, which is located in the application.

Neighbors for grapes.

Excellent compatibility between grapes and pears. The tree does not suffer from the fact that grapes wrap around it, and the vine feels even more good.

Grapes grow well with Chinese lemongrass and actinidia, which is convenient to use on arbors. Grapes grow well with beans, cross-salad, peas, radishes, onions, radishes, beets, cauliflower. From decorative - geraniums, phloxes, forget-me-nots, asters.

Given the compatibility of plants, you can grow the most productive garden - the best in your area.

The article is based on the materials of Yuri Vasilyevich Brodsky.