A hinged or ventilated facade is a modern system often used for exterior decoration of residential and industrial buildings. The cladding here is siding - vinyl, fiber cement, wood and even metal. It is noteworthy that the same installation technology is used for the listed materials. For those who wish to familiarize themselves with it, we suggest studying step-by-step instructions on how to install do-it-yourself siding on any base - wood, brick, aerated concrete, and so on. By doing the wall cladding of the house yourself, you will significantly save on the cost of work.
Preparing for installation
At the initial stage, you need to do the following:
- Measure the facades, gables, window and door openings of the building to find out the amount of building materials to purchase.
- Using the wiring diagram, count the number of components and add to it at least 10% of the stock for scraps and waste.
- Get materials and fasteners, prepare a tool.
Note. We propose to consider the procedure for fixing plastic siding with external wall insulation, since its installation is considered the most difficult. Having mastered the technology, you can easily decorate the house with metal, wood and fiber cement panels.
It must be understood that the installation of siding is always carried out on a frame (otherwise - a crate) made of wooden beams or metal profiles. But a good facade subsystem of galvanized elements is much more expensive than wood, and cheap steel counterparts will not last long. Hence the conclusion: with a lack of funds, it is better to buy timber than to finish your house or cottage with thin profiles with a low-quality coating.
Scheme for calculating the area of siding and the number of profiles
In addition to the details of the crate, you will need:
- insulation - polystyrene foam or cotton wool on a basalt basis;
- a film that protects the facade from wind and moisture penetration;
- siding panels of a suitable color with all accompanying trims;
- fasteners - dowels, short screws and nails, if the upholstery of a wooden house is being done.
Advice. Most often, homeowners sheathe the outside of the walls with inexpensive white vinyl siding. Such a finishing material quickly loses its appearance from street dust, which turns into dirt in the rain. Therefore, it is better to select panels of other, not so easily soiled shades.
Now it’s worth understanding the types of elements for installing siding, so that you understand where which one needs to be placed and correctly calculate their number:
- a start and finish bar is installed at the beginning and end of a row of panels on each wall;
- corner elements serve as facing of internal and external corners of the building;
- the near-window bar is used to frame translucent structures and doorways;
- the ebb is designed to divert water and is placed above the base and under the windows;
- a connecting element is needed for a beautiful docking of PVC panels instead of overlapping them;
- it is customary to sheathe roof overhangs and other hard-to-reach places with soffits;
- J-profile is used to form various adjunctions.
From the tool you will need a screwdriver, sharp metal scissors and all sorts of measuring devices - a tape measure, a level and an iron ruler.
Stage one - assembly of the crate and insulation
The task of the subsystem or frame is to serve as a basis for fixing heat-insulating and facing material, as well as to level out all the unevenness of the walls of a country cottage. Therefore, the device of the crate is a responsible matter, affecting the appearance and service life of the hinged facade with siding sheathing. You need to assemble a wooden frame in the following sequence:
- Before working with a tree, it must be covered with an antiseptic and allowed to dry.
- Stretching the twine parallel to the wall, determine the place where it protrudes the most. Here you need to install the first vertical beam. In a log house, it is necessary to cut down the protruding cuts in advance.
- Focusing on the outer plane of this beam, attach the remaining elements of the crate in increments of 40 to 60 cm. To maintain one vertical plane, place wooden stands of the required height under the bars.
- When insulating with basalt wool, 2-3 rows of horizontal jumpers should be placed between the vertical posts, because over time this material tends to settle and expose part of the structure.
- Lay the insulation between the beams and cover the entire facade with a windproof film.
Reference. The installation step of the frame elements is taken according to the width of the insulating material (50 or 60 mm), so that there is not much waste left after cutting. If you plan to install siding without thermal insulation, then install the bars at intervals of 40 cm (recommendations from the Döcke brand - a manufacturer of PVC panels).
A few words about how to fix the insulation and wind protection. Styrofoam or mineral wool slabs are inserted between the bars of the subsystem and fixed with special building "fungi" directly to the wall. The film sheets must be laid out horizontally, starting from the bottom, and nailed to the crate using strips 3-5 cm thick. Thus, ventilation is provided between the heat-insulating layer and the siding.
To assemble a metal frame, a similar method is used, only galvanized profiles are mounted on adjustable brackets. Separate brackets are used to fix the insulation. In the case when it is required to clad the facade with siding vertically, the elements of the subsystem are attached to the wall in a horizontal position. More about the installation of a metal crate is shown in the video instructions:
Step two - installation of slats and guides
Before proceeding with the independent installation of wall or basement siding made of PVC, an important feature should be understood: under the influence of temperatures, the plastic expands noticeably. This means that vinyl panels and framing elongate when heated. To prevent the new cladding of the house from arching and warping, a gap of 6 mm must be left between all ends and hidden junctions for expansion.
Note. For the same purpose, self-tapping screws or nails that fasten siding parts must not be twisted or hammered in to the stop. The installed element should move freely within the oval cutouts where you screw in the screws.
Set up a starting board
Installation instructions for siding guides look like this:
- Maintaining the horizontal, screw the basement ebbs, passing around the whole house.
- Mount the starter strips close to the ebb and secure them by nailing them to each frame post.
- Using the building level, set the corner bar vertically and fix it with self-tapping screws. If there is a ceiling (for example, when sheathing under a canopy or balcony), do not forget to leave a gap of 6 mm at the top.
- Using the same technology, place the near-window strips, cutting the edges by 45 °. Attach drains.
- If it is necessary to form plastic slopes, then screw a J-profile to the window frame, where the siding panel will then be inserted.
- Install the finishing element at the top of the wall, as shown in the picture.
We fix the finishing profile
Advice. It happens that the length of some shaped strip is not enough. Then the continuation of the corner profile is overlapped by 2.5 cm, and the start and finish strips are butted with a technological indent of 6 mm.
We put the corner element
Two words on how to fix corner profiles. First, 2 self-tapping screws are screwed in from above so that the part hangs on them, and at the remaining points (40 cm interval), the screws are screwed in the middle of the oval cutouts.
As you understand, the instructions for horizontal installation of vinyl siding are presented above. To mount the panels vertically, the same technology is used, only the corner profile serves as the starting strip, and the ends are trimmed with J-planks or elements in the form of a ceiling plinth. The plinth cladding is made in the same way, only a different, more durable cladding material is used (available in the form of PVC sheets). The process is described in great detail in the training video from Döcke:
The third stage - sheathing siding
Do-it-yourself finishing of the house with siding is the last and easiest stage of work. The algorithm of actions is as follows:
- Cut the panels to the dimensions of the facade, allowing for a 6 mm gap on each side.
- Insert the first sheet of siding into the grooves of the corner profiles, at the same time inserting it into the lock of the starting bar. Adjust the position of the panel so that the gaps remain on both sides (they are not visible behind the corner cladding).
- Screw the siding strip to the crate with screws or nails. Position the screws in the center of the oval holes.
- Install the rest of the panels in the same way.
- When you get to the top, the last panel will probably be too wide. Cut it all the way down and put it in place.
Advice. If the strips are not long enough (and in the market and in stores they are sold at 6 m each), do not overlap them, such a connection looks ugly. Divide the wall into 2 or 3 parts and install connecting profiles that will simultaneously serve as decorative elements.
When fastening, the screw is placed in the middle of the hole
Under the roof overhangs, it is customary to mount soffits - flat panels that are installed in guides without fastening to the frame. The same corner profiles, starting strip and J-bar are used here. The listed elements are attached depending on the configuration of the overhang, and then cut off soffits are inserted into their grooves, as shown in the diagram.
Installation of siding on a wooden crate is clearly shown in the next video:
Conclusion
There are 2 difficult moments in the installation procedure - frame alignment and fastening of shaped siding elements, more errors are allowed here. Hence the advice: when studying the instructions and videos, focus on these operations and take your time when performing them, print out the diagrams if necessary. After successful assembly, the lining should be washed with washing powder dissolved in water.
Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.
Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some nuances. If you decide to choose vinyl siding as a facing material, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.
Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.
For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by a photo, and at the end of the video.
Please note that these instructions are for installing vinyl siding, which is different from metal siding.
- knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut;
- electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.
- drill or hammer drill. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones;
- screwdriver For twisting hardware;
- building level. Laser is very convenient to use;
- roulette.
Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.
- When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at temperatures above -10 ° C (which, in general, is unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.
- There must also be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.
- Vinyl siding should rest at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperature before installation begins.
- Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.
Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.
Installation of vinyl siding - instructions
In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:
- fixing the starting bar;
- installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
- installation of siding panels;
- framing window and door openings with siding;
- installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
- arrangement of protruding elements;
- fastening of finishing strips;
- soffit installation;
- pediment lining.
Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, additional protection of the surface or insulation from moisture is achieved.
1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)
Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).
The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.
The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even a minimal slope during the installation work.
Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening. To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.
The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.
Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension using the building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will indicate the line of attachment of the starting strip. 
The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.
However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.
After that fix the bar.
How to attach vinyl siding to a wall
When installing vinyl elements, it is important to properly fasten. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions: 
- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.
- twist the hardware or hammer in the nail must be strictly perpendicular to the plane. 
- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The correct way is shown in the figure. 
- the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw. The desired gap is achieved in two ways.
First, you can attach a coin.
Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. 
There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood. The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material. 
Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner. 
Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.
Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately installing the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.
2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector
2.1 Fastening the planks
The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that ordinary panels are wound up. Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:
First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.
Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.
Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.
The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole. 
Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated. 
It will look as shown in the picture.
Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding
The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.
Mount the bottom bar of the corner, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.
The overlap is 20-25 mm.
The figure shows how to lengthen the bar
Good to know:
- The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
- The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.
Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim blunt and sharp corners of a building.
For an obtuse angle, the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one, narrowed.
For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.
Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure. 
2.4. H-profile installation
This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.
- the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
- if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
- overlap profiles.
Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.
The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels. 3. Installation of ordinary siding panels
We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can finish one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter. 
Installation takes place in several steps:
3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the angled or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.
At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.
Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.
As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In the event that you use a budget mounting option, you can equip the inner panel in the ways shown in the figure. 
Don't forget to leave room for expansion.
3.2. siding panel you need to lower to the initial bar and snap. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture. 
Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.
3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.
3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.
If you need to connect the panels together, and you did not provide an H-profile or you do not like how it looks, you can do it as follows.
- First, remove the interlock from the panel.
- Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
- Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.
The photo shows what it looks like in practice. Note:
- Some manufacturers produce panels without locking on the end of the siding sheet.
- Panels at the joints are not sealed.
- The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.
4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings
There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.
- in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.
- with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.
In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo. 
Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile. The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding. 
Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch. 5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch
If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.
Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed. 
Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made. Next, the profile is attached to the top of the window or door opening. A siding panel is inserted into it.
The process is clearly shown in the photo.
Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and fastening it with an overlap.
7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels
It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.
Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.
The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar. 
8. Installation of siding soffit
8.1. With wind bar
If the frontal board is small, it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.
Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar. 
In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.
In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.
In this case, the outer corner is attached to the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the desired size is cut out and wound up between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.
Similarly, the finishing on the second side.
It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.
9. Mounting the gable with siding
Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:
9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.
Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. It is not visible under the roofing material anyway.
This work is done as shown in the photo.
9.4. Attaching a J-profile to the top of the gable. To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap. 
9.5. Plank preparation. In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope. This can be done using a simple trick: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.
Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.
The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above. 
9.7. Preparing the last strip. Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile. 
9.8. Fastening the last strip. This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.
Conclusion
In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.
Video instruction, Installation of vinyl siding
Of the huge variety of finishing wall materials, siding is distinguished by the simplicity of the operations carried out in terms of its installation on facades. Regardless of the raw materials from which this material is made, do-it-yourself siding installation is a real process, because it is universal. That is, whether it is vinyl siding, metal, wood or fiber cement mortar, it is mounted on the crate. So the most important thing is to correctly install the frame structure on the wall.
There are several options, a regular hacksaw, a circular saw, hand scissors and a sharp knife.
If you are using a circular saw, make sure the blade has fine teeth. If you are cutting vinyl siding, the saw needs to be set in reverse, any other type of siding will only cut in the forward direction. With scissors, you can cut out elements of any shape and size. It is best to cut with protective goggles and start cutting from the fastener upwards.
siding frame
You can assemble the frame either from wooden bars, or from a metal profile, which is used to install drywall sheets. Today, some siding manufacturers offer ready-made frame elements that are sold complete with cladding.
The question of which frame is better: wooden or metal, is asked by many novice home craftsmen.
Lathing installation
Before you mount the crate to the wall, you need to prepare the latter.
wall insulation
For a facade that is lined with siding, it is best to use slab heat-insulating material. It is mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. The main thing is to accurately choose the thickness of the insulation. For central Russia, a thickness of a heat-insulating layer of 50-60 mm is suitable. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam boards of this thickness are sold.
If the house is insulated and clad with siding in the northern region, then the heat-insulating layer should be at least 100 mm. And here there is a difficulty, because the antennae of direct suspensions have a mounting length of 80 mm. That is, the insulation is thicker. In this case, proceed as follows:
- wooden bars with a section of 50x50 mm are installed vertically on the walls along the marked lines, which I do not align vertically;
- and direct suspensions are already installed on them and fastened to them with wood screws.
There is a simpler and better option - a short bar of the same section is installed under each suspension, which is previously attached to the wall. And already hanging to it. It is in this way that the distance from the cladding to the wall surface increases, where an insulating layer with a thickness of even 130 mm will fit.
As for the installation of a heater, through cuts are made in each plate with a knife so that the antennae of the suspensions can squeeze into them. Therefore, it is very important to accurately determine the location of the undercuts.
Attention! Do not make large holes for direct suspensions. This will reduce both the strength characteristics of the insulation and heat engineering.
The plates themselves must be laid tightly to each other so that gaps do not form between them. If suddenly the cracks still remain, then they must be filled with foamed sealant. This is foam in a can, but not assembly. It does not expand in air.
Continuation of the frame assembly
A profile is mounted in one corner of the facade. It is exposed using a vertical level and attached to the antennae of the suspension with special self-tapping screws, which the craftsmen call bugs or seeds. Now four or five strong threads are tied to the profile, which are pulled to the opposite corner of the house. Here, each thread is set horizontally, previously attached to a self-tapping screw screwed into the wall. That is, the threads must form a plane that is even both vertically and horizontally.
According to them, first an angular profile is installed, attaching it to the suspensions, then the rest of the intermediate ones. Be sure to carry out the installation of profiles around the perimeter of window and door openings.
Siding assembly
Do-it-yourself siding installation continues. We pass to the last stage - facing. Despite the apparent simplicity of the process, there are several important nuances in it that affect the quality of the final result. Therefore, special attention should be paid to them.
Installing the starter rails
This cladding element must be installed perfectly horizontally. Therefore, a self-tapping screw is temporarily screwed onto the corner rail, departing from its lower edge 5 mm. A strong thread is tied to it, which is pulled to the opposite corner of the building. They expose it horizontally and at this level a self-tapping screw is also screwed on the corner profile, to which the free end of the thread is tied.
Attention!If all the facade walls of the house are clad with siding, then all self-tapping screws screwed into the corner elements of the crate are tied around the perimeter with one thread.
Now you need to attach the corner profile of the siding to the corner of the house and mark their edges on the frame at the level of the stretched thread. Marks are made with a pencil or marker.
Next, you need to retreat 6 mm horizontally from the edge of the corner profile, set the starting bar below the thread, but with its upper edge exactly along it, and fix it to the elements of the crate. Then the rest of the thread guides are installed. The main thing is to leave a gap of 1 cm between adjacent planks, which is compensatory. That is, it makes it possible for plastic products to expand under the influence of an increasing temperature without touching each other.
There is another option, in which the gap between the corner profile and the starting bar is formed by cutting off the nail (mounting) shelves. In which holes for fastening are made. They are simply cut to the width of the starting profile, and the latter is installed closer to the corner element, but with a gap equal to the width of the mounting shelf.
Corner profile mounting
There are no difficulties here, you just need to pay attention to two important points:
- The lower edge of the corner strip should be 5-6 mm lower than the starting profile.
- The upper edge should not reach the spotlights or other cornice cladding by 3-4 mm.
And so the corner profile is applied to the corner of the building and fastened with self-tapping screws to the crate of two walls. The main thing is to set the corner exactly vertically.
The length of the corner strips is standard - 3 m. If the wall height is higher than this parameter, then two or three elements will have to be mounted. They are installed overlapping relative to each other with an offset of 2.5-3.0 cm. The upper one is laid on top of the lower one. At the same time, the mounting shelves of the upper element are cut to a length of 3 cm. Be sure to leave a compensation gap between the mounting shelves of the two strips in the range of 8-10 mm.
If the house design has internal facade corners, then special corner profiles are used for them. Their installation is carried out in the same way as the external corners.
Current prices for fasteners for profile fasteners
How to get around windows and doors - framing doorways
Difficulties with openings should not be. For their design, either special platbands are used, which today are offered by many siding manufacturers, or starting profiles. Their length is 3 m, so that one element can close both the window opening and the door. That is, there is no need to connect anything to each other.
Side elements are set vertically, top and bottom horizontally. The main thing is that the top bar should overlap the side ones so that atmospheric precipitation does not flood under the lining.
If windows and doors are not located in the same plane of the wall, that is, they are recessed into the facade, then a special corner element is used to frame them. It's called the window. To do this, along the perimeter of the window, close to the frames, a finishing profile is mounted. A spike of the corner element will be inserted into its groove. And the corner itself is fastened with self-tapping screws to the metal profiles of the frame, which were installed along the perimeter of the opening.
We add that the width of the corner shelves on the market is represented by several dimensional parameters. This is done in order to make it convenient to choose an element depending on the depth of the window or door.
Siding installation step by step instructions
Do-it-yourself siding installation is the easiest process of all of the above. You need to start from the corner of the house. The panel is inserted with the side edge into the corner element, the bottom edge into the starting bar. Do not be too lazy to check it for horizontality.
Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws along the elements of the crate. The length of the siding varies in the range of 2.5-4 m, so one panel may not cover the length of the wall. Therefore, they are joined together by a special profile. It is called the H-profile. In its design, there are two grooves on different sides, which include two adjacent siding panels. The H-profile itself is attached to the frame in the same way as the corner one. By the way, its installation is carried out before the installation of siding panels.
In this way, all rows are collected to the last. In this case, every third row must be checked for horizontality.
Now, as for the installation of the last row. Firstly, a finishing J-profile is mounted near the cladding of the roof overhang with an indent of 3 mm. Secondly, the distance is measured from it to the edge of the penultimate siding panel. Well, if this distance is equal to the width of the siding. That is, the panel exactly fit, covering the free space of the wall. If the size is less than the width of the panel, then it is transferred to the siding, in which the upper part with the mounting shelf is cut under this value.
So-called hooks are made along the upper undercut edge. In fact, these are cuts across the length of the panel with a length of 2-3 cm and a width of 2-3 cm. The step of the hooks is 20 cm. The cut strips are folded outward. Their purpose is to enter the groove of the finish bar and spread it open to create a tight connection.
Mounting the pediment
We follow the analogy of mounting wall panels, consider indents from the edge of 9 mm in warm weather and 6 mm in cold weather. installation is carried out around the perimeter, all fasteners are installed in the center of the holes. We fix the last upper element at the top of the hole. For sheathing, we will approach the internal profile or the starting one.
Current prices for siding
Take them into account and stick to them strictly.
- Laying siding is best done from left to right, from bottom to top.
- Self-tapping screws are screwed strictly in the middle of the mounting groove perpendicular to the elements of the crate.
- Strongly screw fasteners can not be. It is necessary to leave a small gap in case of thermal expansion of the material.
- If nails are used as fasteners, and not self-tapping screws, then galvanized fasteners must be purchased.
- Fiber cement siding is attached to the frame with clamps.
- If a wooden frame is finished with siding, then you need to give time (at least six months) for the house to shrink.
Video - do-it-yourself siding installation instructions
Conclusion on the topic
So, do-it-yourself siding installation (step-by-step instructions are thoroughly analyzed) is not the most difficult process in the category of facade decoration. The main task is to correctly assemble the frame structure and strictly adhere to the nuances that were discussed above. If you follow the suggested instructions, you can be sure of the high quality of the final result.
To carry out the lining of the building with vinyl siding, even with superficial construction skills and knowing the installation technology of this material, many will be able to. After all, it is not in vain that this method of decoration is in the lead among the rest, and not only due to its aesthetic and attractive appearance, low cost, long service life, but also ease of installation.
Siding Installation Tools
To carry out the installation work of the facing material, you will need the following inventory:
- A knife for cutting siding is used as follows: first, a strip is drawn on the panel, along which it bends and unbends several times, then breaks. You can also cut the material with a grinder, but only at low power
- Electric jigsaw
- Drill or perforator
- screwdriver
- Level
- Roulette
- Bulgarian
- A hammer
- Marker or chalk for marking
Selection and calculation of component materials
Manufacturers of vinyl siding also produce all the necessary component material for its installation:
- Corners outside and inside for facing the corners of a house with a standard length of 3 m. To calculate the required amount, the total footage along the perimeter of the corner building is measured and calculated, which is divided by 3. It is better not to use short cuts so as not to spoil the appearance of the building
- starting bar has a length of 3.8 m and is calculated by subtracting the length of the doorways from the perimeter of the house
- J-profile will be needed in places where extensions are attached to the building (length 3.8 m.)
- Plank framing windows(length 3 m), calculated by summing the perimeters of window openings
- Window sills are installed if necessary.
- Finishing bar connects the roof eaves to the house
- H-profile closes the joint slots between the siding strips, is installed vertically, is calculated by dividing the value of the perimeter of the building by the length of the siding panel
- The drain strip is installed under the window openings
- The platband is mounted as a lining of any openings that are flush with the walls
You will also need galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer 25-30 cm long. Their number is calculated based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls: 20 pcs per 1 m².
Accessories for vinyl siding Calculation of the amount of siding
Two options are used:
- The area of the walls of the house is calculated, from which the areas of all openings are subtracted. The resulting value must be divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone siding panel
- A drawing of the house is made and the required number of planks is calculated piece by piece. This method is more economical, since you can immediately see where the installation of the trimmings will go.
Calculation of the area of walls for the subsequent calculation of siding 
To date, the market has a large assortment of siding from different companies. One of the popular Russian companies is Grand Line. Vinyl is of high quality. This material is highly resistant to impact and UV radiation.
Nordside siding is gaining more and more popularity. Read more about Nordside siding. The material of this company has a wide range of colors. Nordside siding does not collapse, it is not affected by moisture, it does not rot, rust, paint does not fade.
Preparatory stage
The advantage of this type of material is that it does not require preliminary alignment of the walls. It is enough just to clean the surface of dirt or previous cladding, remove protruding elements (skirting boards, platbands, gutters, etc.).
If cracks are found on the surface of the walls, they are sealed with cement mortar to prevent the accumulation of moisture in the winter.
Important! Wooden walls are cleaned of mold and fungi and treated with deep penetration soil with an antiseptic.
The surface on which the facing material is installed must be absolutely dry, such a requirement is set by the siding installation technology.
Installing siding under siding
The crate is made according to the principle:
- When laying siding horizontally, a wooden or aluminum profile is stuffed vertically
- Wooden bars should have a cross section of 20-40 mm. A galvanized profile crate will cost 30% more, but it will turn out to be more reliable and durable.
- The distance between the profile (bars) should be 30-40 cm. They are set under the level
- First, the guide is stuffed on the left corner of the wall, then the carrier is horizontal from below, the next vertical is in the right corner. Additionally, all openings are tied
- In the manufacture of the crate, the location of drains, lamps and other communications is taken into account. For this, additional guides are mounted on the crate.
- The frame is attached to the wall with dowels (if the walls are made of brick, shell), self-tapping screws (wooden surfaces)
Carrying out measures for insulation and waterproofing
Insulation (polystyrene, mineral wool) is placed in the crate. The main thing to consider is that you need to leave space for a ventilated space between the wall surface and the facing material to prevent decay processes.
From above, the insulation is closed with a hydrobarrier, installed vertically or horizontally with an overlap of 10 cm. The waterproofer is attached to the wooden crate with a stapler. Joints can be sealed with tape.
After carrying out heat and waterproofing measures, a frame is made directly under the siding. The principle of the crate remains the same: a metal profile or wooden slats are stuffed in increments of 30-40 cm, all openings are additionally framed.
Installation instructions for vinyl siding
Installation of vinyl siding involves the following sequence:
- Installation of corner strips
- Attaching the start bar
- Installing a J-profile as a siding edge trim
- Finishing around windows
- Siding paneling
- Installing the finish bar
The installation of the starting bar takes place along the perimeter of the structure, it is important to carefully set it. Self-tapping screws are used in increments of 25-30 cm, and perpendicular to the surface. Fasteners are screwed strictly in the middle of the oval hole to prevent distortion of the material. The main thing is that the self-tapping screw does not enter the bar completely, that is, there is a gap of 1 mm between its cap and the siding (for convenience, you can attach a coin). A gap of 5-7 mm is required in the middle of the joining of two starting strips.
Window and door openings that are in the same plane with the wall are sheathed with a wide J-profile (platband), into which the siding is subsequently inserted.
In the case of slopes, the decoration is reduced to finishing with siding using an angular profile. And first, the lower slope is lined (if there is no ebb), then - the side slopes with a shift to the center of the opening to prevent the top panel from coming out of the clutch in the winter, at the end - the top one.
When installing the siding panels, they must fit into the starting bar and snap into place. Then only the material is fixed with hardware. The fastening of the facing material takes place under constant level control. For convenience, you can pull the rope.
The finishing bar is attached at the top under the roof itself, further from it the value is measured to the last siding panel. The fitted strip is bent in an arc and wound under the finish panel.
vinyl siding installation cost
? The cost of installation work on facing siding depends on the following factors:
- Prices for raw materials, including the manufacture of lathing, insulation, waterproofing, type of fasteners
- Number of door and window openings
- Depending on the material of the building (brick, wood)
- With or without insulation
Vinyl siding video
Vinyl siding technology.
Installation of vinyl siding. Installation of vertical and horizontal siding, soffit installation.
How to install vinyl siding yourself.
To get an attractive, reliable and inexpensive finishing option, you should choose to install do-it-yourself siding on a wooden house. This material is produced in different colors and textures, among which everyone can find their own version.
Material selection
Before you sheathe a wooden house with siding, you should study the basic information about the types of material. You can give the following brief description:
- plastic siding - the cheapest, practical, but afraid of mechanical stress;
- metal - strong and durable, but rust protection is needed (does not apply to aluminum);
- wooden - fits perfectly into the properties of a wooden house and will be the best option, but buyers can be scared away by the price;
- fiber cement - not so popular, not combustible, durable, but difficult to install and has a large mass.
Next is to choose the material of the crate. It can be made of wood or light metal profile. The installation of a metal crate is easier to perform for an uneven base. Such a frame will be strong and reliable.
But do-it-yourself siding of a wooden house on a wooden frame will cost less. Also, you do not have to worry about protecting the element of the wall and the crate at the points of their contact, since they are made of a material with similar properties. When buying and selecting wood for the crate, it is important to control that the tree is:
- without bundles;
- without deformation;
- without bluish spots or traces of rot.
Before starting work, the wooden crate is impregnated with flame retardants and antiseptics. The former increase resistance to fire, and the latter to mold and fungus.
Foundation preparation
Before you sheathe a wooden house with siding with your own hands, you will need to carefully examine the wall. It is necessary to check its strength and the absence of severe damage. Next, you need to remove the old finish, which may interfere with the fixing of the new finishing material. The base is cleaned of dirt and dust.
Frame installation
Finishing a wooden house begins with the installation of rails. For the vast majority of siding, the sheathing needs to be fixed vertically. Its step is selected depending on the insulation. The clean distance between the guides should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the mineral wool. For polystyrene, the distance is selected exactly according to the width.
For the manufacture of wooden crates, most often take bars with dimensions of 40x40 mm or 50x80 mm. When using the metal version, you will need a set of special profiles of different sections.
Frame rails are installed in 40 cm increments, incl. around openings. At the very bottom of the rail should not be Nails or self-tapping screws are used to fasten the frame to a wooden wall. In this case, the former must necessarily have an anti-corrosion coating of zinc or aluminum.
Before starting the fastening of the crate with a construction steleer, a vapor barrier is mounted. To do this, you can use a regular plastic film, but it is better to buy a special vapor barrier membrane. The choice of materials in a wooden house should be taken very responsibly. It is not recommended to use those that will block the movement of air through the walls. For this reason, the membrane is better than the film.
When finishing a wooden house with siding, the vapor barrier is fixed with an overlap of 10 cm. Before starting work, it is recommended to read the manufacturer's instructions. Next, the guides are fixed with the necessary step, starting the installation from the corners. The evenness check is performed using the building level.
Insulation is laid between the guides of the crate. It is better if it is mineral wool - due to good air permeability. On top of the cotton wool, it is required to fix a layer of waterproofing and wind protection. The best option would be modern vapor diffusion (not to be confused with vapor barrier) windproof membranes.
Fixing the starting J-profile
Facing the house with siding with your own hands at the next stage involves the following procedure:
- Finding the lowest point on the crate using a level. It is necessary to measure 50 cm upwards from this point and mark this point (for example, with a loosely screwed self-tapping screw).
- Sequential marking of the line with self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the building.
- Pulling the cord at a distance of 50 cm from the bottom along the self-tapping screws.
- Marking the location of the corner profiles on the rails. At the same time, the profile is laid to the corner, its edges are marked.
- Fixing the first starting profile along the rope with a gap of 6 mm from the future border of the corner profile.
- Fixing the rest of the starting strips with a gap between adjacent ones equal to 10-12 mm for thermal expansion.
- Checking the installation of starting bars by level.
The profile must be mounted perfectly straight. If there are deviations at this stage, the entire siding finish of a wooden house will be skewed.
Corner profiles
Before attaching the siding, you will need to install the corner strips. They can be for external and for internal corners. The first ones are mounted in this order:
- Marking the location of the edges of the spotlights.
- Attaching the guide to the corner of the building. There should be a gap of 3 mm between the profile and the soffit (roof). The lower border of the profile is located 6 mm below the border of the starting profile. The bar is fixed with screws in the upper part.
- Checking verticality with a building level or plumb line. Adjust location if necessary. Fastening with self-tapping screws of the bottom and middle. Fasteners do not need to be provided too often.
Corner profile mounting If it is necessary to join the profile in height, the docking point is located at the same level in all corners of the building. Docking is performed with an overlap. At the same time, the part with holes for fastening the top bar is cut so that a gap of 9 mm remains between it and the same part of the bottom panel. Instead of a corner profile, when mounting siding on a wooden house, it is allowed to use two starting ones.
Step-by-step instructions for installing profiles for internal corners look almost the same. But in this case, other slats are used.
Solutions for internal corners Framing openings
Fixing the siding with your own hands with insulation, you may encounter difficulties at this stage of work. Fastening in this case depends on how the opening is located relative to the plane of the outer wall: flush or recessed.
Waterproofing is required around the windows Finishing the facade in case of flush openings is in this order:
- Waterproofing openings.
- Fastening architraves or J-type profiles. For each opening, you need to use 4 platbands: 2 horizontal and 2 vertical.
- The profiles are connected to each other. On each side of the upper profile, a bridge incision is made. They are bent down to divert precipitation to the lower profile. Areas of material on the vertical slats that prevent connection to the top slats should be removed. The side and top profiles are connected so that the bridges are inside.
- The operations are repeated with the lower casing. But the bridges in this case are cut in the side elements.
Installing profiles around windows To work with recessed openings, you must follow the same recommendations as in the previous case. The differences lie in the use of profiles of different shapes.
Installing the first panel
Work should begin on the side of the building that is least noticeable. In this case, there is an opportunity to practice and "fill your hand." The first panel is first inserted into the corner profile and into the locking connection of the starting one, snapped into place. Between the bottom of the lock and the first element of the siding, a gap of 6 mm is required to compensate for thermal expansion.
The next step is to fix the first plank of the cladding on the crate. For this, self-tapping screws are used. The siding has elongated holes for fasteners, the self-tapping screw must be placed in the middle of this hole. All fasteners are placed strictly perpendicular to the wall surface. Self-tapping screws do not tighten much, this is necessary to prevent deformation and damage during thermal expansion.
Installing the rest of the panels
Finishing with siding with insulation (or without it) is then carried out in two ways:
- overlap extension;
- extension using the H-profile.
In the first method, it will be necessary to first shorten the locks of the panels and the frames for the fasteners so that the overlap length is 2.5 cm. The installation of the H-profile is carried out according to the same principle as the corner elements. It is necessary to remember about the gaps of 0.6 cm from the starting bar and 0.3 cm from the soffit.
Every 2-3 rows it is worth checking the horizontal position of the siding using the building level. When passing through the openings, a piece of trim that enters the window or door is simply cut off.
Completion of finishing
How to sheathe a building under a roof? You need to follow this algorithm:
- Measuring the distance between the bottom of the lock of the finish bar and the penultimate siding panel. From this distance, subtract 1-2 mm for the indent and get the required width of the last panel. The element is marked and cut off the upper part, in which a lock connection is provided.
- In the upper part of the last plank, hooks are made, which are located in 20 cm increments. To do this, cuts are made and bent to the outside.
- The prepared bar is inserted into the penultimate panel and snapped into the finishing profile.
To sheathe the pediment, use profiles for internal corners or starting ones. The installation technology is similar to the lining of the main part of the wall. In the same way, you need to cut the panels and remember about the gaps of 6 and 9 mm. The last uppermost section of the gable can be fixed with a self-tapping screw directly through the panel material. This can only be done here, in other cases, drilling holes is not allowed.
