Drainage ditch device. How to make drainage on the site with your own hands - we do it right From what to make drainage on the site

The article will consider in detail surface drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to organize a drainage system and its features, the rules for selecting materials and preparing for work. An analysis will also be made of step-by-step instructions and recommendations for arranging sewerage for those people who do not have experience in this area, but want to independently organize protection for their home and surrounding area from erosion by rainwater.

The use of drainage systems to divert storm water solves many problems. Such designs eliminate the problem of an excess of moisture at the foundation of the house, preventing the development of putrefactive processes and the appearance of mold. In addition, such systems save the territory from flooding with storm water, as well as melt water, the level of which increases during the spring snowmelt.

Note! If you do not lay drainage pipes on the site or organize a system of surface ditches, you will have to constantly pump out water from the basement of the house in rainy weather. This is especially true for buildings built on loamy soils.

How to make drainage on the site with your own hands: choosing a system

Drainage systems are conventionally divided into two broad categories: surface and deep. If the installation of a deep system may require certain knowledge and the help of specialists, then the installation of surface drainage in a summer cottage can be done independently. This type of sewage can be called the simplest way to solve the problem of excess moisture in the area.

Note! There are certain restrictions regarding the installation of surface and deep systems. Some conditions do not allow the organization of a particular type of sewerage. Be sure to carry out a preliminary analysis of the conditions of the territory of the proposed construction.

To develop a preliminary drainage scheme for the site, its territory should be inspected and key points identified. All factors that may have an impact on further work on the drafting of the site drainage are considered.

The following information is required to draw up a diagram:

1. A plan of the territory indicating all buildings, the nature and density of plantings, as well as the boundaries of the site.
2. Topographic data that reflects the features of the terrain (not needed if the site has a flat surface).
3. Dendroplan (a scheme is necessary if there are a large number of plantings on the territory or if they are supposed to be planted, since the plants are dependent on water).
4. Road-path grid (the layout of future paths and paved areas that need drainage).
5. Scheme of the communication system.
6. Hydrological data (level of water balance of the territory).

On the one hand, hydrological data has an impact on how to do drainage in dacha-type plots, so they are very important. On the other hand, loamy soil types have the same structural structure, so this information may not be needed.

Surface drainage system at the site: device

Surface drainage systems collect spring melt and rainwater, after which they take it outside the territory. The installation of such structures is especially needed in those suburban areas where there is stagnation of moisture or large accumulations of it.

Most often, such conditions are formed if:

• clayey or loamy soil is located under a layer of fertile soil (such types of soil are considered waterproof or waterproof);
• the territory has a lowland location, for example, at the foot of the hills;
• the slope of the surface in the territory is partially equal to zero, in other words, the surface is perfectly flat, because of which the water cannot move independently under the influence of gravity;
• the site has areas where the soil is oversaturated with water from time to time, for example, places where plants are watered.

Note! In addition, it is possible to install surface drainage in a site with a high level of groundwater. In this case, the upper layers of soils may be subject to flooding during high precipitation.

The surface drainage schemes of the land plot in general terms are as follows:

• water collection points;
• trench ladders leading from watershed points;
• a trench connecting together a system of ladders;
• a drainage well, where a common trench leads (instead of a well, leading to a ditch or a natural reservoir, or a ditch specially dug outside the site, can be used).

Types of surface drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater

With regard to structural features, there are two types of surface systems for water drainage:

• point, installed in areas where water accumulates;
• linear - entire networks of drainage pipes that collect water for its further transportation to storage.

How much will it cost to drain the site (price of materials for a point system):

Useful advice! Experts recommend combining both of these systems to achieve the most effective result.

Drainage device on the site (the cost of materials for a linear system):

Do-it-yourself do-it-yourself spot drainage on clay soil

The point-type drainage system does an excellent job of protecting certain areas of the territory from excess moisture. Before draining a site on clay soil, as a rule, problem areas are identified, which can be:

• placement of gutters leading from the roof of the house;
• door pits;
• entry zone;
• terrace;
• points where the analysis of water intended for irrigation of vegetation is carried out.

To arrange the drainage of a site on clay soil, the following elements are used (the prices for them are placed in the tables above):

• storm water inlets;
• settling tanks equipped with containers for collecting large particles and debris;
• trench ladders transporting water to the storm sewer system;
• dampers that prevent the backflow of water and the ingress of large particles of debris into the system.

Features of the storm drainage system on the site: how to make a drainage system

The linear type drainage system consists of gutters that are buried in the soil. These channels carry water from the site to the outside. When arranging such drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands, it should be remembered that the liquid is discharged by gravity.

On sale you can find gutters made of various materials:

• polymer concrete;
• plastic;
• concrete.

Useful advice! To reduce the cost of purchasing consumables, you can make gutters yourself. At home, you can make concrete elements using special molds for pouring.

Above the gutters are gratings that perform a protective function. The material for their manufacture can be plastic or metal (cast iron, steel). These elements have a removable design.

How to make site drainage based on the key elements of the system:

• gutters are laid in pre-arranged trenches;
• sand traps are mounted in areas where drainage systems and other similar places are located;
• gratings are fixed on the gutters.

Do-it-yourself installation of a linear drainage system on the site is carried out if:

• the angle of inclination of the surface is more than 3 ° (in such conditions, water can be discharged by gravity, which, without drainage, can simply wash out the fertile soil layer);
• it is necessary to divert water from the base of the house in conditions of prolonged rainfall;
• it is necessary to divert water from the relief slopes of the territory;

• household structures are located in the same plane with the surface of the suburban area or below this level;
• there is a need to protect the territory of the summer cottage, as well as entrances and paved paths.

Turnkey site drainage installation: price of work

Water can destroy the foundation of the house, destroy some plant species, wash fertile soil from the site, and even provoke a landslide. Drainage of the site by drainage in combination with other protective measures avoids all these problems.

List of protective measures:

1. Performing seamless waterproofing of the base of the house.
2. Protection of the waterproofing layer from damage.
3. Installation of a drainage system at the foundation.
4. Organization of additional insulation of the waterproofing layer at the base.
5. Construction of an insulated blind area.
6. Turnkey site drainage installation.

All items from this list (except the last one) are carried out at the stage of building a house. These works are best left to professionals. The device of the drainage storm system can be done independently, but first you need to figure out what the cost of drainage of a site performed on a turnkey basis by professionals is. This will allow you to make the final decision as to whether it is worth laying drainage pipes with geotextiles or limit yourself to surface mounting the system, which you can do yourself.

Organization of site drainage (price of professional services):

Installing drainage in a summer cottage: the price of elements for the system

Regardless of whether the installation work is done on your own or with the involvement of specialists, you must purchase all the consumables necessary for this procedure before installing the drainage system.

Useful advice! In order to save money, it is recommended to buy drainage wells and other consumables in advance. The main thing in this case is not to make mistakes with the calculations. If you are not sure, use the advice of a specialist to draw up a preliminary estimate. The average cost of developing a site drainage system project is 15,000 rubles.

Prices for drainage wells:

The average price of cast-iron gratings for storm sewers as part of storm water inlets is 3500 rubles. The package may include a waste basket and walls.

How much does it cost to lay drainage pipes in the country (price of services):

The table shows that the cost of laying pipes for drainage of a site depends not only on the level of penetration, but also on the type of material. Working with rigid pipes is much more difficult. This nuance should be taken into account when choosing products.

Drainage installation technology around the site: how to make the system correctly

The simplest technology that describes how to properly drain a country-type site involves the rejection of the use of gutters.

Note! The surface system in this case is performed in a non-standard way at minimal cost, since there is no need to purchase finished parts from stores. In the process of work improvised materials are used.

Do-it-yourself technology for creating surface drainage of a site:

1. Trenches should be dug around the perimeter of the area that needs to be drained. They should be located taking into account the slope of the surface. If the site is horizontal, this slope must be formed independently. The optimal parameters for calculating storm sewers are: the width of the trenches should be 40 cm, the depth - 50 cm. The minimum angle of inclination of the surface (toward the removal of moisture from the site) is 30 °.
2. The trench system must be connected, and then brought into a ditch or into a storage well. In this zone, you can organize a small artificial reservoir, for example, a decorative pond, plant plants there that love moisture.
3. The system is tested for functionality. To do this, water is poured into the trenches and the direction in which it flows is checked.
4. An embankment is formed at the bottom of the trenches. First you need to organize a layer of large rubble, after which there is a layer of small.

For the drainage system, pipes with a filter made of

Protecting the foundation of the house: the sequence of work of the storm sewer device

The technology for arranging a drainage system to protect the foundation involves the use of a linear design:

1. In areas where liquid is drained from downpipes leading from roofs, storm water inlets are installed. For these elements, it is necessary to dig holes in advance, which are 10 cm higher than the depth and width of the water intake funnel. The grate should be positioned 3 mm below ground level.
2. The funnel is installed on a concrete base in such a way that there is enough space for removing the grate and cleaning the water inlet if necessary. It is also not recommended to place this element too high, otherwise the liquid will splash around and there will be no sense from the drainage.
3. Water inlets are connected to gutters for transporting water. To do this, you need to indent from the foundation of the house by 1 m and dig a trench. Its depth is selected so that the gutter can be installed, and there is still 10 cm of headroom left on top. The same margin of space should be in width. Do not forget about the slope of the drainage pipe towards the well.

Useful advice! In the process of installing gutters, which are also placed on a concrete pad, it is recommended to use a building level. The side parts of these parts can be fixed with concrete for reliability.

Next, the gratings are installed, and there must be an end cap on the last gutter of the system. Place sand traps and wells in the corners of the storm sewer, after which you can begin to connect all the elements of the system together. At the joints, the use of bituminous mastic is allowed, which will eliminate leaks.

The system is completely ready, it remains only to fill it with soil, but in such a way that a gap of 3 mm remains between the surface and the grate.

Gutters made of plastic are lightweight and low cost. However, they are subject to deformation changes under the influence of pressure exerted by concrete and soil. To prevent damage to the material, it is recommended to fix the drainage grids “on the shore”.

The system for draining water from the site by open drainage often freezes in winter. So that in the spring the storm sewer can do its job without delay, the pipe must be attached to the sand trap. Thanks to this, the system will not freeze too much.

Using the technique described earlier, you can drain around the perimeter of walkways. Paved areas and paths on the site also need to remove excess moisture, since water has a destructive effect on tiles and other elements (borders, flower beds).

In some regions, groundwater is very close to the surface. So close that they threaten the integrity of buildings (their foundations) and prevent plantings from growing. All these problems are solved by the drainage of the site. In general, this event is costly both in terms of the amount of funds required and the necessary time costs. A lot of time is spent on planning. If you do everything wisely, then you need data from a hydrogeological study and a project drawn up by a specialist. But, as usual, only a few do this, most make the drainage system with their own hands.

What water is drained

Drainage of the site is a costly and time-consuming event that requires a large amount of land work. The best time for construction is the process of planning and arranging the site. Later deadlines lead to a lot of confusion, which is not everyone's pleasure. However, if there is water on the site, you have to go for it.

There are several types of water on the site that interferes with us and needs to be diverted. They are different and require different measures.

surface water

They are formed during snowmelt and heavy rainfall, during work on the site (watering, washing paths), discharging water from the reservoir, etc. What all phenomena have in common is their one-time occurrence: surface waters appear after certain events. A more reasonable way to divert them is a device. She copes with the task perfectly, and the cost of arrangement is much lower.

To divert surface water, mainly open channels are installed, water intake is point under storm pipes or linear along the entire roof overhang. From these receivers, water is taken by solid plastic (asbestos-cement) pipes into a sewer or dumped into a river or lake into a ravine. Sometimes let's take it to the ground.

ground water

Those groundwaters that have a seasonal level (higher in the spring after the flood, lower in the winter), have a feeding zone (where they come from) and outflow (where they go) are called groundwater. Usually, groundwater is present on sandy, sandy loamy soils, less often in loams with a small amount of clay.

The presence of groundwater can be determined using self-dug pits or several wells drilled with a hand drill. When drilling, a dynamic level is noted (when water appeared during drilling) and a steady level (some time after its appearance, its level stabilizes).

If we talk about the diversion of water from the building, then the drainage system is arranged if the groundwater level (GWL) is only 0.5 m below the foundation. If the groundwater level is high - above the freezing depth - then it is recommended with the measures taken to drain water. At a lower level, other options are possible, but this requires careful and multi-layer waterproofing. The need for drainage of the foundation should be assessed by specialists.

If high-standing groundwater (GWL above 2.5 meters) prevents plants from growing, drainage of the site is required. This is a system of channels or special drainage pipes laid in the ground at a certain level (below the GW level by 20-30 cm). The depth of laying pipes or ditches - below the GWL - so that water flows to lower places. Thus, the adjacent areas of the soil are drained.

Verkhovodka

These underground waters are found on soils in highly located water-resistant layers, but their appearance is often the result of construction errors. Usually it is water, which, being absorbed into the soil, meets on its way layers with a low ability to absorb moisture. Most often it is clay.

If, after rain, puddles stand on the site and do not leave for a long time, this is perched water. If water accumulates in the dug ditches, this is also a perch. If a few years after the construction of a house on clay soils or loams in the basement, the walls begin to “cry” - this is also a perch. Water accumulated in rubble pockets under the foundation, in the blind area, etc.

The removal of the top water is easiest to do with the help of ditches, but it is better to prevent its appearance - to backfill the foundation not with crushed stone and sand, but with clay or native soil, carefully tamping it in layers. The main task is to exclude the presence of pockets in which water will accumulate. After such a backfill, it is required to make a blind area, which is wider than the backfill and an obligatory stroke - the removal of storm water.

If the site is sloping, consider terracing and retaining walls, with the obligatory installation of drainage ditches along the retaining wall. The most difficult thing to deal with perched water is in low areas that are lower in level than neighboring ones. Here a reasonable solution is to add earth, since there is usually nowhere to dump water. Another possible option is to drain the drain through neighboring areas or along the road to the point of a possible discharge. You have to decide on the spot, based on the existing conditions.

Not to drain

The installation of a drainage system is an expensive undertaking. If it is possible to get by with other measures, it is worth doing it. Other measures include the following:

If after all these activities the situation does not suit you, it makes sense to make a drainage system.

Types of drainage

Site drainage is a complex system with many nuances and features. By structure, it can be local (local) - to solve a problem in a particular area. Most often it is the drainage of the foundation, basement and semi-basement (basement) floors. Also, water drainage systems on the site are common - to drain the entire site or a significant part of it.

By installation method

According to the installation method, the drainage system can be:

• open. Concrete or stone trays are used, ditches are dug around the site. They remain open, but can be covered with decorative grilles to protect the system from large debris. If you need a simple solution for draining surface water in your country house, these are ditches along the perimeter of the site or in the lowest zone. Their depth should be sufficient so that at maximum flow the water does not overflow. So that the unreinforced walls of the drainage ditches do not collapse, they are made at an angle of 30 °,

Drainage option for a summer cottage - cheap and cheerful

• closed. Water is caught by laid special permeable - drainage - pipes. Pipes are led into a storage well, into a sewer, a ravine, a nearby reservoir. This type of drainage on the site is good for permeable soils (sandy).
• Zasypnoy. Drainage of this type of site is usually used on clay soils or loams. In this case, the pipes are also laid in ditches, but a layered sand and gravel backfill is arranged in them, which collects water from the surrounding soils. The worse the soil conducts moisture, the more powerful the backfill is required.

  

The specific type of site drainage is selected based on site conditions. On clays and loams, an extensive gravel-sandy zone is needed, into which water will drain from the surrounding soil areas. On sands and sandy loams, there is no need for such a pillow - the soils themselves drain water well, but only a specialist on the results of geological research can specifically say.

By type of implementation

There are several types (schemes) of drainage devices on the site:

When draining the site, the central drain or collector is made of pipes of a larger diameter (130-150 mm versus 90-100 mm for conventional drains) - the volume of water here is usually larger. The specific type of drainage system is selected based on the tasks that need to be solved. Sometimes you have to use combinations of different schemes.

Site drainage - device

The drainage system consists of a network of interconnected pipes that are located along the perimeter (or area) of the territory protected from water. Drainage wells are placed at intersections or turns. They are necessary to monitor the condition of the system and clean silted pipes. From all drained areas, water enters the collector well, where it accumulates to a certain level. Then it can be dumped or used for irrigation and other technical needs. The discharge can go by gravity (if there is somewhere), and submersible ones are used for irrigation and other technical needs.

Drainage pipes and wells

Pipes for drainage are used special - with holes ranging in size from 1.5 to 5 mm. Through them, water flows from the surrounding soil. Holes are located over the entire surface of the pipe. They come in different diameters, for private houses and plots the most used size is 100 mm, to divert large volumes of water, you can take a cross section of up to 150 mm.

They are now made mainly from polymers - HDPE, LDPE (low and high pressure polyethylene) and PVC (polyvinyl chloride). They are used for laying to a depth of 2 meters. There are also two and three-layer combined ones, which are made from combinations of these materials, they are buried to depths of up to 5 meters.

Pipes for drainage are selected taking into account the depth of occurrence. It is required to select according to the ring stiffness. It is indicated by the Latin letters SN and the numbers following them, displaying the ring stiffness (resistance to loads). For laying to a depth of up to 4 meters, the rigidity should be SN4, up to 6 meters - SN6.

The surface of the drain pipe is wrapped with filter materials. Filter layers can be from one to three. The number of layers is selected based on the composition of the soil - the smaller the particles, the more layers are required. For example, on clays and loams, pipes with three filter layers are used.

At the turning points and in places where several pipes are connected, revision wells are installed. They are needed for easier cleaning in case of blockage, as well as for the possibility of monitoring the condition of the pipes. As a rule, all pipes converge into one collector well, from where water is either sent by gravity to the discharge point, or pumped out forcibly.

There are special wells - for drainage systems, but it is quite possible to bury a concrete ring with a bottom and a lid of small diameter (70-80 cm) and bring pipes into it. Depending on the depth of laying the drainage rings, several rings may be required. Another option is to make a large manhole and drainage pipe, but in this case you will have to come up with something with the bottom. For example, you can fill the bottom with concrete.

slope

In order for the collected water to drain on its own, it is necessary to observe a certain slope towards the direction of movement. The minimum slope is 0.002 - 2 mm per meter, the main one is 0.005 (5 mm per 1 meter of pipe). If the drainage is shallow, the slope of the pipe can increase to 1-3 cm per 1 meter, but it should be done as little as possible. At a flow velocity of more than 1 m/s, fine soil particles are “sucked in”, which contributes to a more rapid silting of the system.

The slope is changed (in relation to the "duty" of 5 mm per 1 meter) in two cases:

• If it is necessary to divert a larger amount of water per unit of time without increasing the diameter of the drain. In this case, the slope is increased.
• If you want to get away from the backwater (when the pipe laid with a given slope is below the GWL, i.e. water simply will not drain). In this case, the slope is reduced.

In the practical design of the system, questions may arise about how to provide a given slope. This can be done with the help of using a water level (not very convenient) or a flat board paired with a conventional building bubble level. Having leveled the bottom of the trench, a board is laid, a level is placed on it. Moving it along the board, they check and correct the slope of the bottom of the trench in a certain area.

Drain installation technology

Pre-dig trenches of a given width and depth. The bottom of the trench is leveled and compacted. Do not forget about the slope, but at this stage it makes no sense to withstand it exactly. Next, about 100 mm of coarse-grained washed river sand is poured, it is also rammed (spilled, then rammed), leveled. Sand is desirable fraction Dsr 1.5-2.5 mm.

It is laid on sand with a density of not more than 200 g / m2. The edges of the canvas are lined along the walls of the trench. A layer of granite rubble is poured on top. The size of the crushed stone fraction is selected depending on the size of the holes in the drainage pipe. For the smallest holes, crushed stone with a grain of 6-8 mm is required, for the rest - larger. The thickness of the crushed stone layer is 150-250 mm, depending on the type of soil. On clays and loams, 250 mm is required, on soils that drain water better - sands and sandy loams - about 150 mm.

Crushed stone is rammed, leveling into a given slope. A drainage pipe is laid on the compacted gravel. Further, the pipe is sprinkled with gravel in layers, each layer is rammed. There should be at least 100 mm of gravel on top of the drain. After that, the ends of the geotextile are wrapped, their overlap should be 15-20 cm. A layer of sand with grains of 0.5-1 mm is poured on top. The thickness of the sand layer is 100-300 mm, also depending on the water permeability of the soil: the worse the water is drained, the thicker the sand layer. The “native” soil is laid on the compacted sand, and then plants can be planted.

A little about backfill materials

Crushed stone should be granite or other hard lime-free rocks. Dolomite (lime) or marble are not suitable. Testing the existing one is simple: drip vinegar on it. If there is a reaction, it does not fit.

Once again, we pay attention: the crushed stone is laid washed - so that the new pipes do not immediately silt up.

Sand is required coarse-grained. Grain size from 0.5 mm to 1 mm. The sand must also be clean. Some part of the sand is poured with clean water, shaken up, they wait until the sand settles and evaluate the purity of the water. If the water is cloudy, with a lot of suspended particles, the sand needs to be washed.

Some nuances of construction

When draining the site, the central drain or collector is made of pipes of a larger diameter (130-150 mm versus 90-100 mm for conventional drains) - the volume of water here is usually larger.

The drainage device on the site starts from the lowest point and moves gradually up. First, a collector well is installed. If the groundwater level is high or if the top water has not yet descended, water may accumulate in the ditches. This muddy slurry will roll down the well, clogging it. In addition, the presence of water in the ditch greatly interferes with work: drains must be laid in dry ditches. To drain them along the ditch, side pits (sumps) of greater depth are made. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom. The accumulated water is pumped out of these pits.

Excessive humidity brings a lot of trouble to the owners of summer cottages and suburban areas. The first signs of the phenomenon are stagnant puddles, which can “please” their existence for several days, or even weeks. If you can put up with them, then other manifestations of high humidity: the soaking of plants and trees on the site, the destruction of the foundation of buildings, are far from being so harmless. If the land ownership is in a lowland or the level of groundwater is high, do not despair, you need to drain the site yourself.

To remove excess moisture, a drainage system is used, which can be done in two ways. Distinguish between superficial and deep drainage. The first is used to drain water from the territory that accumulates after seasonal floods or heavy rainfall.

The second is designed to reduce soil moisture by diverting groundwater. In general, the type of drainage is selected depending on the condition of the site and the requirements of its owner. Despite the significant difference between the types of drainage, each of them can be performed independently.

Design and construction of surface drainage

Surface drainage systems can be of two types: linear and point. The latter are intended to drain water from small isolated areas on the territory. Special point drainage water intakes are placed in places where water accumulates. These can be areas under drains, at the bottom of terraces, in relief depressions, at entry areas, etc. Such a system is considered the simplest and does not require a special scheme.

Point drainage water intakes are placed in places where water accumulates

More difficult to design and install is linear drainage. It is used to remove moisture from buildings, to protect paths and driveways from water, to prevent the fertile soil layer on the site from being washed away, etc. The structure is a specially designed system of shallow trenches, laid at a certain angle, which runs along the perimeter of the site and in places of maximum accumulation of water.

Before starting work, a site drainage project is drawn up, which implies the presence of a main trench to collect moisture flowing into the ditches. It should end in a water intake, which can be a storm sewer or a ravine. In the design process, it is necessary to consider all places of moisture stagnation and lay trenches from them to the main drainage system.

It is also necessary to correctly calculate the slope of the structures, otherwise the water will not flow down them. The minimum slope of drains in sandy soils should not be less than 0.003, in clay soils - 0.002. The water intake must be located below the level of linear drainage. Practice shows that the best result is obtained with a slope ranging from 0.005 to 0.01. To equip the surface drainage of the site with your own hands, you can use two methods:

Open. Assumes the presence of open trenches dug according to the drainage scheme. The walls of structures are usually formed at an angle of 30 °, which allows water to flow into the ditch without problems. The width of the structure is 0.5 m and the depth is 0.7 m. The main advantage of the system is its simplicity in execution. A serious drawback is an unaesthetic appearance that spoils the impression of the site. In addition, the unreinforced walls of the trench quickly crumble and the structure becomes unusable.

Crushed stone filling prevents the destruction of the trench, but at the same time reduces its throughput

Important: To solve the problem of crumbling walls of the drainage trench, crushed stone dumping can be used. To do this, the lower part of the groove is covered with coarse gravel, and the upper part with a finer fraction. From above, the structure can be covered with turf. Such a drainage device on the site helps prevent soil slippage and save the trench, but at the same time seriously reduces its throughput.

Closed. It consists in the use of special drainage trays, which are laid directly into the trenches, and are closed with gratings from above. The structures protect the grooves from slipping the soil, the gratings prevent debris from getting inside the drainage structure. Trays can be concrete, polymer concrete or plastic, which are considered the most popular today due to their low weight and exceptional durability.

The grate covering the tray can be made of metal or plastic

Deep drainage system: subtleties of design and installation

Deep drainage is designed to reduce soil moisture. For the system to work effectively, it must be located below the level of groundwater. In its determination, the help of a specialist will definitely be required, since it is impossible to do it on your own. It is necessary to order surveyors a detailed plan of the site, on which the level of the aquifer should be marked, which will allow an accurate design of the structure.

It happens that the drainage system on the site is needed only to ensure the vital activity of plants suffering from excess moisture. In this case, you can use a simplified calculation option. Average values ​​are used to determine the depth of the drains. Pipes can be located at around 0.6 to 1.5 m. You need to know that for fruit trees it will be 1.5, for forest - 0.9, for lawns, flower beds and flower beds - about 0.9 m. areas with peat soils need to be equipped with deeper trenches, since such soils settle very quickly. The depth of the drains will vary from 1 to 1.6 m.

For the arrangement of the drainage system, special pipes with perforation are used. Initially, asbestos-cement or ceramic structures were used, which today have given way to plastic ones. Drains are pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, equipped with a network of holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Some models may be equipped with a special filter shell that prevents debris from entering the openings. Plastic pipes are durable, lightweight, and very easy to install.

In order to equip the deep drainage of a summer cottage with your own hands, you should first of all draw up a project that will reflect the depth of the drainage pipes and show where they will pass. As in the case of a surface drainage system, it is assumed that there is a main trench that collects moisture from all secondary pipes and ends in a water intake: a gutter, a pond or a special storage well.

Perforated pipes for deep drainage are laid on a bed of sand and gravel

In the process of installing a drainage system, there are several stages:

• trench equipment. In the places marked in the project, we dig channels with a width of about 40 cm. The depth of the structure can be different, it depends on the level of groundwater. A sand cushion is laid out at the bottom, and a layer of rubble is laid on top of it, on top of which a drainage pipe is placed. In some cases, it can be wrapped with geotextile to protect the holes from possible clogging.

Installation of manholes. To control the drainage process and the necessary cleaning of the system, special wells are installed. They can be made of reinforced concrete rings, but if the depth at which the drainage is laid does not exceed 3 m, corrugated pipes of different diameters are used. Structures must be equipped with covers to prevent various debris from entering them. On a straight line, wells are placed every 35-50 m and after one turn with a winding trench.

Wells are located at the corners of the trench and every 35-50 m in a straight line

• Backfilling of the building. The drain is covered with layers of rubble and sand. Some guides explaining how to drain a site suggest separating the sand from the gravel with geotextiles to prevent them from mixing. The laid pipe, together with the crushed stone-sand cushion, should not occupy more than half the height of the trench. The remaining space is filled with compacted loam and the top layer of fertile soil. Ideally, the area under which the drainage pipes are located should not be highlighted.

Thinking about how to make drainage on the site, you need to know that this work can be done independently. The main thing is to determine the type of system that is necessary for draining the soil, to carry out a competent project and to correctly assemble the structure. Then it will be possible to forget forever about the troubles caused by excessive moisture on the site.

Poor growth of garden crops and trees, constant dirt on garden paths and seasonal flooding of cellars and cellars indicate a high level of groundwater in the summer cottage. You should not put up with these inconveniences, otherwise high humidity can turn into more significant problems - swelling of blind areas and paths, shrinkage of walls, and even destruction of the foundation. Nevertheless, there is no reason to rush to get rid of suburban property. It is not difficult to drain the territory - it is enough to build an efficient drainage system. The construction of drainage does not require any special skills, so you can easily do it yourself. As for knowledge, we will try to talk about the secrets of construction and give important recommendations in the course of work.

A drainage system is necessary where the site is flooded even after a light rain

The question of whether a drainage system is needed in a suburban area, as a rule, does not require a long study of the situation and analysis of natural factors. Most often, the inconvenience that occurs due to waterlogging of the soil appears after snowmelt or heavy rain. The beds are overgrown with sedge, paths and lawns occupy puddles for a long time, and basements and cellars suffer from dampness - these are the factors that indicate the need for drainage. Nevertheless, before investing time and money in arranging a drainage system, you should make sure that it is worthwhile. Several conditions will help to do this, indicating the need to drain the soil.

If at least one of these factors is confirmed in your country house, then the need for drainage can not be discussed. A high-quality drainage system will give a second life to cultivated plants, make the territory cleaner, save paths from deformation, and the foundation from destruction.

Varieties and arrangement of drainage systems

The problem of excessive soil moisture in the area can be solved by two types of drainage systems - surface and deep. The decision which one to use to drain your site directly depends on the reasons that lead to the flooding of the territory.

Surface (open) drain for collecting rainfall

Surface-type drainage is a system of storm water inlets designed to collect and remove rain and melt water outside the site, preventing it from soaking into the ground. Such a drainage system works excellently on clay soils and can complement traditional storm sewers. Water is drained into filtration wells or outside the site. In addition, the lion's share of precipitation simply evaporates.

Point drainage is very often combined with a linear drainage system.

Depending on the design of the drainage systems, surface drainage is divided into two types:

When arranging point drainage, wastewater is collected using storm dampers, drains, storm water inlets and ladders. Their installation sites are door wells, roof gutter drain points, areas under water taps and other areas that need local water collection. Point collectors are connected to underground pipes, through which effluent enters the storm sewer collector.

The trays of the linear drainage system are closed with gratings that prevent them from clogging.

Linear drainage can be near-wall or remote from structures. It is a system of grated trays for collecting precipitation that did not fall into the point storm water inlets. This method of drying is rational to use in such cases:

Linear also includes road drainage, which is made in the form of a ditch parallel to the roadbed for the movement of cars.

Arrangement of a deep drainage system is necessary where groundwater approaches the surface of the site closer than 2.5 meters. During its construction, a large amount of earthwork is required, therefore it is best to construct such drainage at the same time as digging foundation pits for the foundation of the house and outbuildings.

Prefabricated Drainage Pipes and Recommended Ground Types

For the construction of deep drainage, perforated pipes (drains) are used, which are laid in the soil layer at an angle. The presence of holes allows drains to collect excess moisture and transport it to a storage collector, filtration well or drainage tunnel.

The slope of the drainage pipes must be at least 1%. For example, for a 20 m long highway, the height difference between the upper and lower points will be 20 cm.

Design features of deep drainage systems

Another common type of deep drainage is a reservoir or backfill system. It is made in the form of an underground channel, half filled with a filter pad made of crushed stone or crushed brick. To prevent the absorption of the collected moisture, the bottom of the formation drains is sealed with a layer of clay, on top of which a rolled waterproofing is laid.

The simplest and most effective methods for draining a summer cottage

Since drainage in the summer cottage and directly around the buildings can be done in various ways, we will focus on the simplest and least labor-intensive options.

How to reduce moisture levels without drainage

Many factors influence swampiness, therefore, in some cases, a summer plot can be drained without drainage. If a special relief contributes to the increased soil moisture, then it is quite simple to make the water flow outside the site. To do this, in some places the soil is removed, and in others it is poured, creating a small slope. If the selected soil is not enough, then it is imported from outside the garden area. It is better to add soil in the country with black soil or peat, and in order to make the soil lighter, 1/3 to 1/5 parts of sand are added to it.

A reservoir equipped at the bottom of the site is an excellent way to dispose of drainage water

In the event that water accumulates on the site due to closely spaced layers of clay, and the territory itself has a slight slope, then a small reservoir can be dug at the lowest point. It can be used as a natural reservoir for watering cultivated plants, turned into a fish pond or used as a decorative element of landscape design. As a rule, due to the high level of groundwater, there is no need for additional waterproofing, but in some cases a special PVC film for pools will help make the reservoir airtight. To prevent the surface of the artificial lake from blooming, aquatic plants are planted along its banks.

Planting moisture-loving plants is a great way to normalize soil moisture. For example, an ordinary birch is a real pump that literally pumps water out of the ground. Spiraea, shadberry, hawthorn, wild rose, and, of course, willow and willow do a good job of draining the territory. Planted in problem areas, as well as along the paths, they will not only remove excess moisture, but will make the landscape original and attractive.

How to make drainage around a country house or outbuildings

To protect the basement or basement from melt and rain water, wall drainage is built around summer cottages. This drainage system is most effective during the off-season, when the groundwater level reaches its maximum value. The construction of the "reclamation" system is best carried out at the stage of foundation construction, however, if the decision to build it was made due to the appearance of water in the basement, it's okay - better late than never.

Constant flooding threatens to destroy the foundation

The construction of the drainage is carried out in stages.

Drainage around the house can be done in two ways - close to the foundation and at a distance from it

With the arrangement of the blind area around the house, one should not rush - it is necessary to withstand time for the soil to shrink in the trench. The pouring of concrete and the laying of paving slabs begin only after the soil is finally compacted.

Video: construction of a low-budget deep drainage system with one well

Drainage of a suburban area: the easiest method

A surface drainage system allows you to avoid unnecessary financial costs and build drainage facilities on a large summer cottage. Its main purpose is to remove excess moisture during heavy rains or during the period of snowmelt.

When arranging open drainage, earthworks are carried out in accordance with the instructions below.

Next, they deal, in fact, with drainage. Depending on the degree of aesthetics, landscape design requirements or personal preferences, it can be tray or backfill. In the first case, the arrangement of channels looks like this:

Laying trays will make the drainage system durable and aesthetic

In the second case, the construction is carried out according to the following scheme:

For the arrangement of drainage, you can also use the old, "old-fashioned" method - the construction of fascines. For this, branches of alder, willow or birch are harvested, which are tied into armfuls 15 cm thick so that thin twigs are on one side and thick ones on the other. Bundles of branches are not laid on the ground, but on pegs previously installed along the entire length of the trenches, connected like anti-tank "hedgehogs". Brushwood is placed with thick branches up and compacted along the edges with moss. If everything is done correctly, then we can count on a 20-year operation of the reclamation system.

To protect the walls of the channels from collapse, rubble stone or turf is used. The trenches are decorated by constructing ridges along their edges with perennial moisture-loving plants, such as irises.

One way to make the drainage channel more attractive is to plant ornamental plants.

Drainage of a suburban area: the traditional way

No matter how simple and cheap an open drainage system is, it has one significant drawback - low aesthetics. Agree that landscape design on a site with a whole network of channels is not an easy task. In this case, it is better not to save money and build a durable and efficient deep-type dehumidification system.

The best scheme for laying drainage pipes is the "herringbone". In it, the side lines converge to one central pipe, which is led into a sewer well or outside the site.

Diagram of a deep drainage system

If the drainage system is needed not to protect the foundation, but in order to reduce soil moisture, then the depth of the trenches is chosen based on the recommended values:

For drainage, special polymer pipes with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm are used. Ideally, their type and quantity is determined by a calculation that takes into account soil moisture, its type, precipitation, etc., however, if you do drainage yourself, it is cheaper to buy PVC water pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and make a grid of holes in them with step 40-60 mm independently.

Indoor drainage trenches can be dug manually or with earthmoving equipment.

After the ditches are dug, proceed to the main part of the work.

Observing the slopes, they lay and connect drainage pipes into a single network.

It is not recommended to use crushed limestone for arranging drainage. Firstly, at a depth it is compressed and will not let moisture through, and secondly, its interaction with the soil can provoke the appearance of a salt marsh.

Video: construction of a closed drainage system in a summer cottage

Maintenance and cleaning of drainage in the country

Although a properly built deep or surface drainage system does not need frequent preventive measures, some work cannot be avoided. The contents of the manholes should be checked periodically by clearing soil particles using a dirty water pump and a high pressure pump. When pumping mud from a drainage well, a long pole is used to shake up bottom sediments. Complete flushing is required in case of severe silting of pipes, as well as every 10-15 years of operation of the drainage system.

High pressure water systems are best for cleaning drain pipes

To free the line from sand deposits, the pipeline must be accessible from both sides. Rinsing is carried out with a strong jet of water, which is alternately directed from one side of the pipe, then from the other side.

If you have to deal with persistent deposits of dirt and clay, then you can use the traditional plumbing technique - cleaning pipes with a long cable and a stiff bristle ruff brush. By combining mechanical action with flushing, it is possible to completely remove long-term deposits on drainage pipes.

In case of siltation of the channels of surface systems, you can resort to cleaning them with saltpeter. To do this, the turf and the top backfill are removed from the trenches, after which saltpeter is evenly scattered on the crushed stone layer. Then the “pie” is poured abundantly with water and the upper layers are returned to their place. A similar method allows you to extend the performance of the system for more than one year, but you can only use it as a last resort - saltpeter is a source of nitrates, and its excess negatively affects the quality of the soil.

Video: how to flush a deep-type drainage system

A high-quality drainage system will protect the foundation and basement of a country house from flooding, add health and strength to green spaces. The cost of land reclamation measures is not so high as to refuse them, especially since you can build drainage on the site with your own hands. Everything you need for this can be easily found in the distribution network, and earthmoving equipment will help speed up the work.

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "extra" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washing out of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, it is impossible to walk through the summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we'll look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of the developer and the suburban homeowner

About the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems, you can write a separate book. Therefore, we will leave a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence outside the scope of this article, and concentrate on practice. But without the minimum theoretical knowledge, to take up the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers is to throw money away.

The point is that even improperly made drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped with geotextile, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large amount of excavation work with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, simply digging and shifting a drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying is difficult and expensive. The site has already been inhabited, landscape design has been made, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire site around.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological survey data(which will help to find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of the house or waterlogging of the site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snowmelt and an abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, surface water, if it is not diverted in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground, turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be diverted by storm (rain) sewage, rather than trying to do surface drainage!

Storm sewage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard. This will avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made with an independent drainage device:

• Non-observance of the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on the "wrong" ground. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• The use of cheaper limestone rubble instead of granite, which is washed away with water over time.
• Savings on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as the transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm sewer

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm sewers on the site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price of them "bites". This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain meltwater that comes from a neighbor. Water must be diverted to a ditch. I thought about how to make a water outlet. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they will leave “extra” gratings, and I don’t need special aesthetics for storm water. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them along with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted by the need to saw asbestos-cement pipes on their own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users responded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes on their own, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for laying trays.

The result is the following pie:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray from asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget shower at the dacha. It took: 2 days to dig a trench, two more days to concrete and install the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track "overwintered" perfectly, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also of interest is the option of rain (storm) sewage of the portal user with the nickname yuri_by.

yury_by Member of FORUMHOUSE

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I thought about how to arrange a storm sewer to remove rainwater from the house. I want to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yuri_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe could break in winter if water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yuri_by I decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of internal sewage. Although he had fears that the pipes, which do not have such rigidity as the "red ones", will break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yuri_by

If you step on the "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. Only the lawn is laid and there are pedestrian loads. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the storm drain works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

Paint the manhole cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of a drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining a slope of the route of 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the “right” sites. In SNT or in new cuts, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the site or to drain and bring the site in order.

In order not to engage in various costly alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save the family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE Member

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. In my area, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain does not go into the ground. To divert the top water, it must be thrown out of the site. I did not spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are laid in it, tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with "unnecessary" pieces of slate in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "cover" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “heavy” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the country house stands for a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the very heat in summer. No one wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with the neighbors. It is necessary to raise your site and find a way to put all the "unnecessary" water from the site.