Nowadays, much attention is paid to private construction. Almost any owner of a wooden house knows that for the construction of a particular wooden structure, a high-quality log house is required. To build a bathhouse or your own wooden house, you need to make a lot of effort. Even before the start of the construction itself, the preparation of the necessary material is underway. This primarily applies to wooden logs from which the log house will be made. For the construction of new wooden houses, before the log cabin goes directly to the construction site, it must be treated with a solution of antiseptic agents.
To build a house, you need a quality log house. This requires good logs and their proper processing.
This stage is very important, since an untreated log house can quickly change color and be exposed to mold. As a result of all this, the tree will lose its consumer qualities. Logs are processed not only before transportation, but also after. Very often, the surface of the log house turns blue or is exposed to moldy fungi. One antiseptic is not able to fully protect the log house for the house. You have to use other active substances. These include bleaching, fire-resistant agents. Let us consider in more detail how the log house is processed, why antiseptic, fire retardant, bleaching agents are needed.
bleaching agents
In order to prevent the appearance of fungus, you can use bleaching agents.
You can process a log house for the house with bleaching agents. This group of drugs is designed to protect the log house from a special fungus that can cause blue wood. There are many products on the market that have similar properties. The most popular and effective are such tools as Sagus, Neomid 500, Saga and others. Neomid 500 is available as a concentrate, from which it is necessary to prepare a working solution. The ratio of substance to water is 1:1.
A good result is given by the tool for processing the log house Sagus. Like Neomid 500, it bleaches the log house and gives it a good appearance. After applying this mixture, it is advisable to treat the log house with an antiseptic Neomid.
One of the newest is the Liga drug. It allows you to get rid of blackness, blueness. The tool gives the tree its primary appearance. Of great importance is the fact that wood processing for a house or a bath is carried out only after it has completely dried. In most cases, the log cabin has time to get wet. For its complete drying, it will take from six months to one and a half years.
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Means for protecting the log house from fire
It is very important to treat the log house of a new house with substances that reduce the possibility of fire.
Neomid 530 is designed to protect the log house from fire.
Flame retardants must be used without fail. A special place is occupied by such a tool as Neomid 530. In addition to the main action, it is able to protect the log house from damage of a biological nature. In addition, Neomid 530 improves the appearance of the material during decorative processing. This mixture has been used in construction practice for a very long time. An alternative option is Senezh.
The third drug is called KSD. In addition to protecting against fire, it has an antiseptic effect. It is produced in the form of an aqueous solution, which contains flame retardants in its composition. The most optimal way to use it is spraying. You can also apply it with a large brush or roller. The method of immersing logs is often used. In addition to the above, there are complex substances that have several useful and valuable properties at once.
The most common drugs in this group are Senezh ognebio and Phenilax. The first protects the log house from rotting, discoloration, fire. In addition, it prevents the effects of insect pests. As for Phenilax, it is safe for humans and animals, allows the tree to breathe, penetrates deep into the log house and protects from damage. The big advantage is that the log house covered with it belongs to the category of hardly flammable wood.
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Group of antiseptic drugs
To prevent the development of microorganisms and fungi on the logs, use antiseptics.
How to process a log house to prevent the development and reproduction of microorganisms on it? This is one of the largest groups of protective substances for a log house. It includes Neomid 440, BIO-Z, Liga-Bioshield, Aquatex. Neomid contains fungicides and insecticides that have a wide spectrum of action against microorganisms (bacteria, viruses, fungi). It actively protects the log house from damage for up to 15 years. One of the best is Aquatex. In addition to the main mechanism of action, this substance decorates the log house, giving it an excellent appearance.
A log house, processed by him, will look like valuable wood species. It is also important that Aquatex protects the frame for a house or a bath from sunlight, rotting, water. But it is advisable to carry out the treatment only if it is not varnished or varnished, otherwise the active substance simply will not be absorbed. The drug of the new generation is Liga-Bioshield. It acts for a long time and has a wide spectrum.
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Step by step layering
How to process a log house in the first place? There is a certain sequence of applying active agents to a log house for a house.
At the final stage, treat the log house with drying oil in order to avoid blackening of the logs.
- First you need to apply an antiseptic. The number of layers in this case should be 2 or 3. Log processing is carried out both inside and outside. Of great importance is the fact that the interval between the layers is done. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried.
- The second stage of work is the use of fire retardants. The technology is the same, only the optimal number of layers is 1-2. The substance is absorbed, and in the event of a fire, the surface does not burn, but only chars.
- The third step is to protect the log house or bathhouse from water. Wood has the ability to absorb moisture, so the logs must be treated with a water-repellent compound. Particular attention is paid not to the sides of the logs, but to the ends. In these areas, moisture absorption occurs several times more actively. When processing the ends, the product is applied in 4-5 layers. The sides need a two-layer coating. Water-repellent substances contribute to faster evaporation of moisture and drying of the log house.
- The next step is preparing the surface for applying the finish coat. To eliminate all defects and cracks in the coating, a primer is required. The most suitable option is a primer based on alkyd-acrylic substances. It helps to improve the adhesion of the log house with the finish coating. It must be applied from the outside and inside.
- As a finishing layer, bleaching preparations, as well as drying oil, varnish can be used. Bleaching agents prevent the darkening of the log house for the house.
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Methods for applying protective compounds
Applying a thick solution to the logs must be done with a roller.
Depending on which agent is used for processing, the method of its application may be different. There are several methods for applying a protective coating.
The first one is to use a roller or a large brush. This option is more suitable for thick mixtures that cannot be spray applied. This method is more labor intensive.
Preparations in the form of aqueous solutions are applied to the surface of the wood using spray guns. It is known that most protective preparations (mostly antiseptics) contain toxic substances, so the procedure is carried out in a respirator or in a mask and goggles.
The third method is the immersion of wood in special baths in which the working solution is located. Any worker building a house or a bath should know that there is no need to save on protective compounds. It is recommended to use only proven products. It is important to remember that it is necessary to apply the solution both on the inner surface and on the outer.
-> Log house with your own hands -> Processing the walls of the log houseActually, at first I didn't want to write this chapter. Because the conclusions that follow will disappoint many. However, these conclusions are based on the traditions of Russian wooden architecture and the experience of many generations of carpenters.
If a log cabin is cut from solid logs, it does not need varnish, paint, or any other coating. Furthermore,
any coating interferes with the natural air-moisture exchange of the log, which means it worsens its performance properties, promotes the development of rot, mold, and other diseases, and thereby significantly reduces the service life!
Our ancestors knew this very well and NEVER covered logs in wooden buildings!
RULE NINE: Log walls made of solid logs do not need to be coated with any compounds!
Sometimes you can hear that our ancestors did not cover log cabins because they were poor, beggars, and there were no such materials then!
They were neither poor nor beggars. And there were no less paintwork materials than now, moreover, they were natural, the quality was an order of magnitude higher than modern ones. It's just that over the millennia of wooden architecture, people have become convinced of the detrimental effect of any coating on log walls.
That is why in Russia various carved things were common there - they not only decorated log buildings, but also distracted the eye from the black walls.
Well, the one who was a complete and incorrigible aesthete upholstered his house with boards (lining) and painted these boards. For example, in Belarus, 90% of wooden houses are decorated in this way.
Residents of the Scandinavian countries covered the log cabins with the so-called Swedish or Finnish compositions, which are time-tested, and through which the logs really breathe. You can easily find the composition and method of preparation in Runet. I covered a wooden fence with a Finnish composition and I can’t say that it pleases my eye. You can experiment with the color of the composition and painting technology, however, I will say right away that the service life of this paint is no more than five years, which is clearly not enough for outdoor coatings.
If you have a chopped bath, then I would not advise at all to cover its walls with anything, regardless of what it is made of: solid logs or rounded logs or any kind of timber.
The composition of any coatings for wood includes components against insects, rotting, mold and fungus: in plain language - pesticides, as well as fire-fighting components - flame retardants. The log house breathes, and through the interventional sealant, these substances easily penetrate into the building. Then, through the cleansed skin pores, they will safely go straight into your bloodstream, bypassing the protective filters of the body. And the blood will deliver all these charms to the tissues of the body, to the brain, to the internal organs ... Therefore, no matter how sellers of varnishes and paints praise their products, you will have to choose between the external beauty of the bath and your own health.
Sometimes you can hear such a question: “What to do if mold appears in a newly built log house?”
Mold in a new log house can only appear if it was built from undried logs. One of the main conditions for the appearance of rot and mold is the increased moisture content of wood (more than 19%). Therefore, the only cure in this case is intensive drying. Drafts, fan heaters, stoves... Surface antiseptic treatment is ineffective, as decay processes take place inside the logs. In addition, the main reason (high humidity) remains.
If you have a log house, then in the living room there are completely different temperature and humidity conditions, so any kind of finish, varnishes, paints will no longer act as detrimentally as in a bath.
And, although I am against any log wall covering, I will give you some tips that I hope will reduce the negative effects of this procedure.
If the log house of your house is assembled from dried material, then you can cover it from the outside immediately after assembly.
If a log house was cut from a damp forest, then it will be possible to cover it no earlier than in two years.
After removing the darkened outer layer, the outer walls of the house can be covered.
Regarding the brand of composition, based on the experience of my friends, I will say the following: high-quality, “breathing” compositions are very expensive, but there is no alternative to them. Purchase compositions of well-established foreign manufacturers. Before buying, try to find those who have already used these compounds to cover their walls. Because the vast majority of relatively cheap coatings are “housewarming paints”, since their real service life is no more than three to five years.
If you covered the logs from the outside, then you cannot cover them with varnishes and paints from the inside! The log must “breathe” on at least one side.
Quite often, one has to deal with an unacceptable action in relation to solid logs, which modern builders deliberately perform - with an electric jointer or a cutter-nozzle on a chainsaw, the outer layer is removed.
This is done with only one purpose: to please the eye of the customer with the whiteness of freshly planed wood, however, at the same time, normal healthy logs are crippled, as the wood fibers are cut and opened.
On the surface of the log there are loose inner layers, which are less resistant to environmental influences.
Moreover, if the material is not dried for at least a year, due to the increased drying rate of the upper layer, increased cracking will occur on the surface of such logs. Cracks a few centimeters thick are found only in logs treated in this way, in rounded logs and profiled timber.
If such logs are covered with something else, then this will only aggravate the situation, since the release of moisture into the atmosphere by the logs will slow down significantly. And wood moisture content of more than 19%, as I said, is the main prerequisite for the development of various diseases.
The service life of a covered log house is several times less than that of an uncovered one!
The way the world works is that you have to pay for everything! But for some reason, very often, the price for external beauty is our health!
Well, such a feature of the tree: it turns black over time! But after all, we don’t paint (at least not yet) our skin to look more beautiful, and we don’t cut off our fingers so that they are all the same length ...
A wooden house is rightly considered the best type of housing in terms of environmental friendliness, naturalness, low heat loss and affordable material costs. But the wood needs special preparation to increase the life cycle of the house and preserve the natural beauty of the wood texture. So how to process a wooden house, and how to properly protect the building and improve its appearance?
Reasons and goals of wood protection
The main problems that arise during the operation of wooden houses are directly related to the natural properties of the material. In the process of preparing and conducting the construction cycle, preliminary drying, waterproofing and thermal insulation of floors and roofs at the point of contact with chimneys and hot pipes are provided. But this is not enough. The most common causes of material deterioration are listed below.
- Cause of the defect: Different evaporation rates through the end and side faces
- Manifestation of the defect: Cracking, rotting of the ends of the log house.
- Result: Deterioration of the type of log house, deterioration of the quality of the walls.
- Cause of defect: fungus
- Manifestation of the defect: The appearance of mold, blue, discoloration of wood.
- Result: Deterioration of appearance. Gray mold causes many diseases, especially dangerous for allergy sufferers and asthmatics. When white mold appears, wood restoration is extremely difficult.
- Cause of the defect: Infestation by woodworm beetles
- Manifestation of the defect: The appearance of channels with eaten wood
- Result: Reduced quality of structures.
- Cause of defect: UV rays
- Manifestation of the defect: The wood burns out, acquires a gray tint.
- Result: The house looks dilapidated.
- Cause of defect: High humidity
- Manifestation of the defect: Rotting wood.
- Result: Destruction of the structure, danger of collapse of floors and roofs.
- Cause of defect: Fire hazard
- Manifestation of the defect: From charring to ignition.
- Result: Partial damage to structures and up to the complete destruction of the house.
All of these problems can be easily avoided with the help of antipyrite and antiseptic impregnations for a wooden house, protection of buildings at the stages of construction and repair.
processing of a wooden house inside. A photo
Types of wood preservatives
Chemicals for the treatment of wood materials are divided into two large classes:
- Antiseptics, providing protection from moisture, fungal and algae damage, from the development of rot, damage by woodworms, crustaceans and fouling of shells.
- flame retardants to protect a wooden house from fire and the spread of flame when ignited.
Both specialized means and compositions of complex effects are produced. According to the type of base, water-soluble (acrylate) and organic compositions are distinguished. The latter can be produced on the basis of volatile, waxy or oily compounds.
To process a wooden house from the outside, compounds with an organic base are often used, as they are more effective and difficult to wash out. At the same time, organic compositions may contain toxic substances, which limits their use. Acrylate-based antiseptics are safe, cheap, but often require either additional paint protection or have restrictions on use, for example, only under awnings or under siding.
By appointment, drugs are:
- priming(basic), providing comprehensive protection and conditions for deep penetration of decorative coatings;
- decorative(finishing), enhancing the basic protection, protecting against fading in the sun, allowing you to give the tree the desired shade or degree of gloss. Suitable for processing a wooden house inside or outside, as well as enhanced protection of wet rooms of baths and saunas.
By consistency protective agents are liquid (ready-to-use or requiring additional dilution), paste-like and solid concentrates, which are diluted before use.
processing of a wooden house outside. A photo
Different types of drugs may be intended for one or more of the following purposes:
- for primary preventive treatment of materials for the period of transportation, before construction or the start of operation;
- for periodic renewal of protective impregnation after the expiration of the period of active exposure;
- for the treatment of damaged wood.
When choosing protective equipment for export products, we recommend paying attention to the compliance of the composition with international safety standards.
Means and methods of wood processing
Protection of critical structures
Types of processing:
- primary for structures operated in conditions of active contact with soil or atmospheric moisture (lower rims, logs and subfloor, basements, piles, poles, wooden roofs, gables, log cabin cladding);
- preventive for walls and partitions;
- medical for damaged surfaces.
Popular brands:
Nortex-Lux, KEDR-MV, Senezh, HM 11, Senezh Bio, HMBB, HHS, Senezh Ecobio, Biosept-Ultra, Drevotex.
how to process a wooden house. A photo
Impact principle
Antiseptics for primary treatment, penetrating deep into the wood, prevent the development of fungal diseases, mold, bacteria, woodworm damage, and also protect against the most dangerous enemy of wooden buildings (house fungus, however, to a lesser extent than from fungal cultures of moderate rot.
Preparations of this type are difficult to wash off or indelible, and they actively act all the time while they are inside the treated structures. The service life of wooden elements can grow by 25-50 years, depending on the operating conditions. When applied, the color of the wood tends to change to better control the protection process.
For walls and partitions of dry rooms, colorless antiseptics are used, usually washed out. For this reason, they are usually used inside the house, but it is also possible to use them when processing a wooden house from the outside as a primer for subsequent paintwork or glazing treatment.
Some non-washable antiseptics contribute to the rusting of ferrous metals, so carefully study the instructions if you plan to treat elements adjacent to metal structures with an antiseptic.
Do not work on icy or frozen wood.
Protect treated structures from moisture until the product is finally fixed in the material. Usually the time is indicated on the package.
Protection of the ends of the log cabins
Types of processing:
Popular brands:
Woodmaster Biotor, Neomid 440, Senezh TOR, PU- Holzverfestigung.
Impact principle
Through the ends, moisture is absorbed and evaporated 10 times more intensively, which causes deformation and shrinkage cracking, which is especially strong for round timber. Protective agents form breathable coatings on the end surfaces that repel moisture from the outside and normalize the rate of evaporation. Some preparations, for example, PU-Holzverfestigung cause deep hydrophobization of wood cells, continuing to protect the ends even after the appearance of cracks.
The use of such processing of a wooden house from the outside is extremely important and can significantly reduce both the number and depth of end cracks. Especially important structures should be processed inside the house. Means are applied to the surface with rollers, brushes or sprayers once or in several layers with intermediate drying (determined by the properties of the end surface). Oil-based (wax) or water-based products are available.
how to process the ends of a log house. A photo
To reduce overall consumption, choose oil-wax products.
If the ends are already cracked or rotting, then select a deep penetration agent that can protect damaged wood.
For particularly sensitive areas, choose compounds that slightly change the shade of the wood so that you can carefully control the application process.
Pay attention to the compatibility of the product with subsequent decoration of the ends, for example, toning or texture compositions.
Fire retardant treatment of ceilings and rafters
Types of processing:
- primary before using lumber (immersion in the solution) or after the construction of the building (applying the composition with a sprayer, roller, brush);
- periodical after the expiration of the fire protection period of the previously applied agent.
Popular brands:
Senezh Ognebio, Senezh Ognebio Prof, Negorin-MS, Ultan, XMHA, Pirilax-Lux, Pirilax-Terma, KEDR Protection-PPP, KEDR-AN6, MIG-09, OZONE-007, KEDR-KD.
Impact principle
There are two types of means to improve the protection of a wooden house from fire: coating compositions (paints, pastes, varnishes, coatings) and impregnating flame retardants. In most cases, impregnating compounds not only protect wooden structures from ignition and flame spread, but also have antiseptic properties. In the composition of fire retardants (flame retardants, enhancing the action of retarders substances (synergists) and stabilizers limiting the consumption of synergists.
fire retardant treatment of a wooden house inside. A photo
Provided fire protection properties (1 or 2 groups. For especially critical structures, which include rafters and ceilings, you should achieve the 1st fire protection group. To do this, increase the number of applied layers, as recommended in the instructions for the preparation, although there are also means to achieve high protection in 1 pass Attention: Some surface impregnation preparations can only provide 2 fire protection groups.
Use wood color changing compounds to protect critical structures. So you will be able to visually trace the quality of the antipyrite treatment.
To control the application of preparations when processing a wooden house inside, use products with decorative tinting in shades natural for wood.
Do not allow contact with atmospheric moisture or liquid drip until the drug is fixed in the wood.
Use specialized preparations for antipyretic treatment of baths, saunas, hammams, for example, Pirilax-Terma.
If it is required to protect wooden structures with a previously applied paint coating, it is convenient to use the KEDR-KD water-dispersion thermal intumescent paint, which provides 1 group of fire protection at temperatures up to 60ºC in rooms with humidity up to 80%.
Protection against blue and mold
Types of processing:
how to treat a wooden house from blue and mold. A photo
Popular brands:
Tikkurila Valtti Pohjuste, Tikkurila Valtti Akvabase, Tikkurila Valtti Expert Base, Liga Bioshield, Antimold Lacra, Nortex-Doctor, Senezh Eurotrans, Nortex-Lux, KEDR Doctor (winter and summer), Nortex-Transit, BS 13, Drevotex-Antimold.
Impact principle
Fungal pores, penetrating into a wet tree, form local colonies that change the natural color to blue, green, black or pink. With prolonged moisture, the tree may rot. Antiseptic agents with a fungicidal effect penetrate damp wood and sterilize it. This excludes an increase in the hygroscopic characteristics of the tree.
Treatment is possible in three ways: immersion in an antiseptic, applying the solution with a brush or spraying. The protection time for freshly sawn wood materials can be 4 (8 months for different brands, provided that they are stacked correctly and ventilated. When applied in several layers and there is no subsequent washing out of the agent after treatment inside a wooden house, the protection against fungal attack can be up to 45 years.
When choosing an antiseptic, evaluate the full range of its effects in order to reduce the effort and cost for the comprehensive treatment of a wooden house. Many fungicides additionally protect the wood from woodworms. Some manufacturers also guarantee protection against algae, house fungus, cracking, or increased fire resistance.
Treatment of a wooden house inside from mold. A photo
Not all brands are suitable for processing wooden houses inside, and some of the suitable ones will then require washing out the antiseptic before painting or varnishing. Please read the instructions carefully before purchasing.
For outdoor applications, pay attention to weather resistance. Some manufacturers indicate the need to protect facades from prolonged exposure to water with canopies or siding.
Woodworm protection
Types of processing:
- preventive before the start of construction and installation work;
- periodical at the expiration of the effectiveness of the drug;
- medical with a small area of \u200b\u200bdamage to wood.
Popular brands:
Lignofix Stabil, Drevotex-Bio, Woodmaster Antizhuk, Belinka Belocid, Belinka Fentin, Antishashelin.
Impact principle
Many antiseptics have a barrier insecticidal property, penetrating a few mm into the wood and making it impossible for the subsequent development of woodworms (shashels). It is precisely because of the limited impregnation layer that it is advisable to treat healthy wood even before the construction of the log house, since the use of chemicals with a high degree of damage does not make sense.
How to protect a wooden house. A photo
With the onset of biodamage, beams can be cured. To do this, the bioantiseptic solution is injected (syringed) inside the bug passages as deep as possible, and then the passage is covered up so that the antiseptic can penetrate into the thickness of the beam. If the affected area is extensive, then other methods of treatment are used: fogation, fumigation, microwave treatment, dry steam, insecticides. All of them will eventually cost more than treating a wooden house with antiseptics for prevention.
Most drugs only kill adult beetles, but Antishashelin is also effective against their larvae, provided that you can inject the drug deep enough into the affected wooden structures.
For deeper penetration of the drug, apply the product up to 3 times with an interval of 2 (3 days).
The period of effectiveness of bioantiseptics can reach 10 years, which is much higher than common insecticides. We advise you to repeat preventive treatment after the expiration date specified in the instructions.
wood bleaching
Type of processing:
Popular brands:
KEDR Bleach, Nortex-Bleach, Senezh Neo, Bioshield-2, Neomid 500, Senezh Effo, Drevotex-Bleach.
Impact principle
When wood darkens as a result of fungal attack, only the surface layers are usually affected, especially if there is regular moisture replenishment. You can mask the defect, but it is better to return the original shade with special bleaches that penetrate and kill the fungal mycelium on the surface and in the body of wooden structures. Bleaches can be grouped into two main types:
with active oxygen. Gentle impact without a destructive effect on the structure and without the release of harmful gases. Usually two-component formulations, involving sequential application or mixing immediately before processing.
When choosing how to treat a wooden house, keep in mind that the treatment procedure with gentle grades with active oxygen is a little more complicated than with chlorine-containing products. To treat a wooden house on the outside, it is often easier to choose an aggressive bleach, while for interior use it makes sense to work with mild agents.
Decorative exterior and interior processing of a wooden house
Types of processing:
Popular brands:
Tikkurila Valtti Akvacolor, Tikkurila Vinha, Tikkurila Valtti Color, Tikkurila Valtti Color Satin, Tikkurila Valtti Color extra, Luxens, Belinka Azure, Belinka Top Azure, Belinka Top Azure+UV, Belinka Top Azure Mix, Belinka Interior, Krasula, KRASULA for baths and saunas, KRASULA for toning, Krasula For interiors, Senezh Akvadecor, SENEG Sauna.
Impact principle
Glazing, texturing, tinting antiseptics are designed for finishing a wooden house outside and in the interior, they can be applied directly to wood material or over primers on the same basis (water or organic). The purpose of decorative processing (slow down the aging of wood, reduce cracking, protect against moisture and dirt, prevent damage by flexible or bugs.
Varieties for saunas and baths, in addition, are characterized by an increased hydrophobic effect (the ability to repel moisture from the surface). At the same time, the natural texture and smell of wood is preserved. Some products (for example, SENEZH Sauna) have an additional antimicrobial effect and destroy common types of pathogens of human infectious diseases.
The compositions can be colorless or tinted in the natural shades of wood of various species. There are also matte, satin (polished) and glossy preparations. Many glazing antiseptics can be tinted. After applying antiseptic impregnation for a wooden house in areas of increased abrasion (stairs, railings, terraces), additional protection with varnishes is advisable.
For deeper penetration of glazing antiseptics into wood, the procedure for treating walls should include preliminary cleaning of old coatings and dust, applying primers (we recommend choosing primers from the same company on the same water or organic basis with a finishing composition).
Do not use external treatment products in the interior, unless it is indicated in the instructions. Organic-based formulations offer the best protection, but may contain toxic substances and have an unpleasant odor.
Chemical protection of the house (an affordable and effective way to prolong the original appearance, delay the aging of wood, protect the house from fungal and biological damage, fire hazards. Together with the preserved natural beauty of the wood texture, along the way, you can ennoble the shade of the walls, give a gloss to the facade, and increase the overall life of the house by several decades.
Processing of a wooden house. Video
The protruding ends of log cabins are an important element of the entire structure, the protection of which requires special attention. The processing of the end surface of the log house logs with special means can stop the negative impact of the environment. Timely measures taken will allow the tree to dry evenly, which will positively affect the appearance of the building.
Why is it necessary to process the ends of logs
Log cuts need additional protection, because at first they crack, darken and change their natural shade to gray.
The reason for this is that the softest inner part of the tree is exposed at the protruding end.
Even in order to leave the log house in its natural form, the ends will still have to be treated with preparations. This is due to several reasons:
- Increased dampness. Open sections are vulnerable to the influence of external factors. Longitudinal fibers absorb water more actively than transverse ones, because of this, this part of the log quickly becomes damp.
- appearance of the fungus. A large amount of moisture is the cause of mold. It softens the cut line, for this reason the open ends rot, then crack.
- Uneven evaporation. Moisture evaporates faster through saw cuts, this causes deep cracks and deformation of the log crowns.
- The appearance of insects. Rapid evaporation of moisture contributes to the appearance of friability. Because of this, the inside of the tree becomes vulnerable to temperature changes, and is also easily attacked by woodworms and other insect larvae that destroy it.
Processed ends slow down the evaporation of moisture and make this process more uniform. During shrinkage and shrinkage, the logs crack less, retaining the heat-shielding properties of the structure and its appearance.
What is the best for processing
After identifying the cause of the problem, it is necessary to find ways to solve it. It is important to choose the right tool to protect the ends of the timber so that they do not crack.
Sealant treatment
A wooden building will last longer if the end sections are covered with a special sealant. It will seal existing cracks and prevent future cracking. After application and drying of the coating, a protective layer forms on the surface.
The use of sealant does not require additional processing of wood with various antiseptics.
Thanks to the sealant, it will be possible to forget about cracks for a long time. It has the following effect:
- protects from excess moisture;
- reduces stress inside the log;
- gently clogs pores, while allowing the surface to "breathe".
Dye
Another method of processing is the coating of logs with paint.
The paint must be diluted with a solvent before application.
Using paint as a putty:
- allows you to seal the timber, creating a surface protective layer;
- protects cuts from water and other external factors;
- provides uniform evaporation of moisture;
- protects the surface from cracks.
Lime
Traditionally, lime was used to process saw cuts.
This natural antiseptic is different in that:
- disinfects the material and prevents the process of decay;
- not afraid of UV radiation;
- has a relatively low cost.
However, this composition does not provide long-term protection and is quickly washed off by rain. The treatment will have to be repeated several times a year.
Experts advise using lime only for the first two years, and then using more reliable professional products.
Special processing aids
The modern construction market is filled with all kinds of coatings that protect wooden log cabins well.
Biotor
Thanks to this solution, the deformation of the log is noticeably reduced.
The composition "BIOTOR" forms an elastic coating, which is absorbed into the wood for several centimeters, due to this:
- prevents the formation of rot;
- reduces the number of end cracks and their depth;
- promotes the removal of excess moisture from the wood;
- reduces the deformation of the tree during shrinkage.
Biotor retains its protective properties for a long time. It is a frost-resistant and fireproof material without solvents and odor.
After applying the antiseptic, the shade of the wood changes slightly, which allows you to control the untreated areas.
Neomid Thor Plus
The antiseptic creates an elastic water-repellent coating with good vapor permeability, which allows the wood to "breathe".
The cover does the following:
- protects wood from decay;
- prevents the development and emergence of microorganisms;
- reduces the linear deformation of timber during operation.
The resulting colorless film preserves the natural pattern of the wood.
Senezh Tor
The agent penetrates deep into the wood and forms a reflective thick-layer elastic coating on the end surface, which normalizes the evaporation of excess moisture. In addition, this antiseptic:
- prevents cracking;
- protects against biodefeats;
- does not affect the natural texture of wood;
- provides reliable protection for several years.
The protective composition does not contain prohibited chemical compounds, therefore it is safe for health.
Experts oppose the processing of end sections with the following folk remedies:
- machine oil;
- PVA glue;
- candle wax;
They clog the pores of wood, disrupt air circulation and moisture exchange at the site of application.
Processing technology
By adhering to a certain order of work, it is possible to protect the ends of logs, timber and other large-sized timber.
The processing of the ends of the logs of the log house takes place in several stages :
- Trimming- this is the alignment of all protruding logs under one level in length and plumb. For this, a chainsaw or an electric saw is used. Facing gives the log house aesthetics: all ends become smooth, without protrusions and burrs.
- Edge grinding. Sanding helps prepare the surface for antiseptic treatment. In order for the protective layer to lie better and more evenly, the end of the log must be smooth. The log house is polished using a grinder or a belt grinder. The surface is treated in two stages: the first - with a coarse abrasive, the final - with a fine one.
Grinding the material is carried out in dry weather conditions: processing wet wood will lead to the appearance of nicks and pile, which will not allow to achieve smoothness.
- Applying a protective compound. The ends should be plentifully processed with a wide brush at least 3 times. Each new layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. Drying time of the layer - 24 hours at a temperature of 18-22°C.
When applying a protective coating, it is necessary to carefully process the edges of the end cuts. Processing is necessary only in dry sunny weather.
End processing after shrinkage
After construction is completed, it is better to paint the end surface with a decorative and protective composition, which will gently clog the pores and normalize the evaporation of excess moisture during the operation of the log. As a coating, a special sealant or a product of similar action is used, which creates a durable protective layer. Paint is also suitable for this, which not only prevents moisture and surface scratches, but also gives a decorative look.
Processing the ends of logs is a necessary event that should not be neglected. It is better to produce it immediately after drying. Following simple tips, you can independently process the ends with high quality, without resorting to specialists.
Not all owners of a wooden house know that the processing of a log house made of logs has its own algorithm, which cannot be deviated from. First of all, it is necessary to prepare the wood for better impregnation and careful action of chemicals, since not all compounds act gently, and expensive building materials cannot be subjected to aggressive action. How to protect your home correctly without damaging the wood is described in this article.
Why impregnate the material
The question is natural for a person who is ignorant of wooden housing construction, because in the factory the lumber has already been processed. However, a one-time antibacterial attack cannot protect it to its full depth, even if the wooden building materials were soaked in baths with solutions. It's all about the structure of natural material.
The trunk is still practically a living tree. It will lose the opportunity to update very soon: moisture is evaporated from the finished timber slowly and during long operation. Therefore, in order to keep the fresh look of the building as long as possible, it will have to be processed regularly. What does it give:
Of course, it is desirable to entrust the care of your own structure to professionals, but their services are quite expensive. Self-processing of a log house is quite simple and understandable even to the ignorant in this matter.
Stages of work
The industry has created a plethora of chemicals that can be used both outside and inside the home. Synthetic compounds actively resist the main problems, in addition, they can be used against fire - the main enemy of the tree.
You should not use “three in one” products: they do not give the desired effect, since when the components are mixed, a substance is obtained that weakens the active actions of the components or is even useless in the form of an antiseptic.
Deciding how to process rounded logs is now quite difficult: the products are diverse both in price and quality. It is important to remember that interior surfaces should not be coated with volatile chemicals. When warmth comes to the house, they will soar throughout the space, settling in the lungs of the household. They are hazardous to health, and it is impossible to use products that are not labeled with the appropriate inscription.
The correct lumber processing process has the following steps:
- Preparation of all surfaces. If the work is carried out at a new facility, then grinding and painting the log house from the cylindering inside and out is not required. It is enough just to impregnate with antibacterial compounds and apply glazing masses. They will not hide the pattern of wood, but at the same time they will not let moisture in.
- You need to get a tool. How to process a house made of logs? These are hard brushes, spray gun, all kinds of sprayers. It is also necessary to prepare protective clothing.
- The application of the compositions should take place in the following order: antiseptic, protection against moisture penetration, fire retardant. Why exactly?
- Firstly, the processes that contribute to the appearance of mold can begin in the wood itself, if there were prerequisites for this before buying a log house or building materials. All units of building materials should be scrupulously reviewed for defects.
- Secondly, to prevent the accumulation of moisture, a barrier is applied immediately after the antiseptic. This will allow moisture inside to evaporate through the ends and not accumulate. Thirdly, ignition most often occurs due to the human factor, so this layer will be the last one, and an accidental cigarette butt or a spark from a fuel unit cannot cause harm.
- Decoration. Is it necessary to treat a rounded log with an antiseptic or paint? The answer to the first part of the question is, of course, unambiguous - necessarily. As for paint, there is no point in hiding the natural beauty of wood.
After a few years, natural precipitation and phenomena can make a beautiful surface rough. Then, before applying any composition, you will have to work hard with a grinder: after which the paints and chemical impregnations will fall evenly. Before cleaning the wood, all protruding parts of the log house - window sills, ebbs, doors, shutters - are removed. Using a vacuum cleaner, you can easily remove the smallest dust from grinding.
Be sure to abundantly soak the caulking gaps, after removing the old material. If the caulk was made recently, then it is impregnated carefully so that in the future there will be no question: what is the best way to insulate log cabins from logs - high-quality seams can save the owner from this process.
Particular attention should be paid to the end part of the log cabins, they cannot be covered with a film composition, since wood is supposed to breathe. Hydrated lime mixed with a weak solution of manganese is best suited for processing here. In this case, the capillaries of the trunk will not be clogged.
All compositions must be given a period for complete absorption and drying. Only then can you proceed to the next layer of chemistry.
However, without a proper polymer film, there is a risk of losing the smoothness of the surface of the logs. Therefore, varnish or glazing compounds are used. They emphasize the pattern of the wood and make the surface impervious to damage. An important condition: such compounds must be labeled as frost-resistant, otherwise the polymer will crack in the cold, and there will be no protection, however, as well as beauty.
Before applying the color composition, the building object is processed especially carefully: cracks are polished, into which a paste of chips with carpentry glue is placed. This measure is good for small defects. Large gaps are caulked.
The paint is applied in several layers: the first one will be absorbed after sanding. If desired, the finished surface can be varnished. So the milled material will acquire a second life.
