Sewer riser in the apartment: how to repair it, replace it and who should do it

During the planned replacement of the common riser, the public utilities are obliged to notify all residents of the time of the work. In this case, there are almost no problems, except for temporary household inconveniences. But replacing the sewer riser in an apartment can turn into quite tangible troubles, if the basic rules are not followed.

When is it possible to repair

The common riser rarely changes, much more often there are leaks at the level of a single, one or another apartment.

And almost always the owner is forced to make repairs at his own expense.

  1. If a crack occurs in a common drain pipe, the best option is to apply a rubber clamp. The measure, by and large, is temporary, but this time can last even several years. You will forget about the leak for a long time.
  2. Both cast-iron and modern ones often crack, and wiring. They can also be replaced with your own hands. However, you will have to ask all the neighbors above not to turn on the water and not flush the toilet while you work.
  3. Replacing a drain from a toilet, bathroom or kitchen is a little more difficult. The pipe needs to be cut into a common riser, and in most cases one cannot do without an invited plumber. And here you need to warn the neighbors, otherwise all the water from above will pour on you and the residents on the floors below.

Who changes and who pays

The question often arises - who should change the sewer riser in the apartment, in case of leakage or deterioration.

  1. If all or almost all neighbors are suffering from the current one, you need to write a collective application to the public utility. In this case, housing and communal services workers are required to replace the entire system without charging additional fees. After all, you already give monthly contributions, part of which should go to repair sewers.
  2. When a common pipe and plumbing needs to be replaced within the boundaries of your apartment, you will most likely have to give a certain amount to the one who should repair it.

Note!
Moreover, with patience and perseverance, you can achieve a replacement of the main drain for free.
But all incoming and outgoing communications to the apartment are done at your own expense.

Replacing the old section of the system

If you decide on a major rework, stock up not only with patience, but also with the necessary materials and tools. When everything is at hand, replacing the sewer riser in the apartment will be much faster.

What you need

  1. Plastic pipe of the required length, diameter 110 mm.
  2. Plastic cross 110×110×110×50 mm or tee 110×110×110 mm.
  3. Compensator for connecting pipes.
  4. Rubber cuff, for tight joining of a plastic pipe with a common cast iron one.
  5. Adapter with rubber cuffs for docking with a non-flared top tube.
  6. Clamps for attaching the riser to the wall.
  7. Elbows made of plastic 110 mm, for shifting or leveling the riser.

Note!
The instruction allows replacing a cast-iron riser with plastic only on the last (upper) floor.
At the same time, be sure to keep the ventilation pipe going to the roof.
It is needed to balance the pressure in the drain system.
In the absence of ventilation, the operation of the water seals is disrupted, and an unpleasant odor will be felt in the apartments.

Instruments

  1. Bulgarian with a set of disks.
  2. Gas burner or blowtorch.
  3. Silicone sealant.
  4. Hammer, chisel, screwdriver.
  5. Sturdy ladder.
  6. Respirator and goggles.

Replacement process

Before replacing the sewer riser in the apartment, warn the neighbors. It is advisable that they stock up on drinking water so that there are no unnecessary claims against you. So that you don’t have any complaints about them, it’s better to turn off the water supply in the basement. Thus, you will deprive individual "well-wishers" of specifically actively flushing the toilet, pouring you with waste products through a cut drain.

Dismantling the pipe

  1. A grinder makes an incision at a height of about a meter from the distribution tee.
  2. The second incision is made at the top of the pipe, at a distance of 7/8 cm from the ceiling.
  3. A chisel is driven into the resulting incision, tapping on it with a hammer.
  4. The chisel will "open" the pipe, which will burst around the circumference.
  5. The same is done with the lower part, then the cut out fragment is carefully pulled out.

Chasing

  1. Tap the pipe carefully with a hammer. Ideally, the bell should wobble. This suggests that during the initial installation, they were minted using a rope reel with carbolic acid.
  2. Pry off the winding rope with a screwdriver and carefully pull it out with pliers.
  3. Slowly loosen the socket until it comes out.
  4. Often there is a gray chasing, this will add problems. It is almost impossible to swing the element with bare hands.
  5. Use a blowtorch or gas burner to burn off the sulfur around the circumference. This approach almost always works.

Note!
When burning sulfur, harmful substances are released.
Therefore, when working, wear a respirator and goggles.
The room must be ventilated.

  1. When the sulfur melts, the socket can be pulled out. It is convenient to clamp it with an adjustable wrench and stagger, pull it towards you.
  2. The saddle of the bell should be cleaned of residues with a chisel or chisel. Then the sealing cuff will sit without distortions.

Installation of a new riser

Before you change the sewer riser in the apartment, remove the already dismantled one and get rid of everything that is superfluous around.

Provide access to the place of work and prepare tools.

  1. A rubber cuff - an adapter is installed on the cast-iron pipe coming out of the upper apartment. The joint should be coated with sealant.
  2. A plastic adapter is installed on the cuff from above.
  3. The second rubber adapter is installed in the same way at the bottom, near the floor.
  4. The pipe with the compensator is measured. At one end it is inserted into the adapter from above.
  5. The lower end of the pipe is cut off just above the socket with a compensator.
  6. Now you can connect all the parts, carefully lubricating the joints with sealant.

  1. With plastic clamps, an almost finished riser is attached to the wall. This must be done without fail, otherwise, over time, the pipe may move down and break.
  2. If a tee is also replaced in the course of work, a compensator is placed in it. In the case of installation of two riser pipes, the compensator is used at the points of their connection.
  3. Upon completion, all joints are inspected for cracks, tightness is checked.

Conclusion

Independent replacement of the riser, with permission and compliance with all norms, is not such a difficult task. The price of materials is minimal, and a homely owner will not need hired labor. After a competent repair, it will become more comfortable for you and your neighbors.

The description of the process offers a video in this article.