Learning to make cages for rabbits. Homemade cages for eared - cheap, simple and convenient! Drawings of cages for rabbits detailed guide

It is not recommended to use metal for arranging rabbit cages. Under the rays of the sun, this material is very hot, and in the cold season it freezes. In such a dwelling, rabbits will feel uncomfortable, start to get sick and stop breeding.

Tools

To make a house for rabbits with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• a hammer;
• roulette;
• wood saw;
• plane;
• scissors for cutting the mesh;
• pliers;
• nails, screws, self-tapping screws, corners;
• screwdriver and screwdriver;
• sandpaper.

Cell dimensions

The size of rabbit cages depends on the size of the animals. A single cage for a male rabbit should have a width of at least 0.6 m and a length of 0.8–1.1 m. If the rabbits are large, then the size of the section should be increased. One rabbit weighing more than 5 kg requires a room with a length of 1.3 to 1.5 m.

The size of the room for young animals depends on the number of rabbits. They can be placed 5-8, and with a compact landing - 12 individuals per house. In this case, the width of the cages should be 1 m, the height should be from 0.35 to 0.6 m, and the length should be 2–3 m.

In any case, one adult rabbit should not have less than 0.5–0.7 m2, and one cub - less than 0.15–0.2 m2.

After studying these simple recommendations, you can easily equip your rabbit farm. If you make animal houses yourself, then the enterprise will cost a small amount. And rabbits bring considerable income: after all, not only the tender meat of these animals is valued, but also their wool and manure.

Experienced farmers know that creating optimal conditions for animals is one of the most important factors affecting their health and proper development. It is not necessary to purchase ready-made cages for rabbits, you can make them yourself. In this case, first you need to figure out which type of structure is most suitable for rabbits, which drawings with dimensions to use, what will be required in the work.

Sizes for animals of different ages

Previously, before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, you need to choose a simple design scheme. There are many ready-made solutions, but often they do not fit in terms of dimensional parameters. In this case, all dimensions are increased to the desired value or a new layout is being prepared.

They mainly use wood and mesh - this is an inexpensive, but practical option for arranging a rodent's home

Beginning livestock breeders should keep in mind that one house will not be enough for breeding animals. Even if you increase the size of the enclosure, this is not the most suitable option for rabbits. In this case, a minimum of 3 separate sections is required:

• for adult animals;
• young animals;
• rabbits with offspring;
• large breeds.

Grown-ups and adults

The dimensions of the aviary for rabbits of adults or grown-ups must correspond to the following parameters:

• length - 2.1-2.4 m;
• width - 0.6-0.7 m;
• height - 0.5-0.7 m.

But here, this area also needs to be divided into 2 separate sections, between which you need to place a feeder with hay and grass. Many rabbit breeders, in order to save space, make rooms in two tiers, doubling the height due to the reduced length.

rabbits

As a rule, young animals are kept in groups. But despite this, rabbit enclosures need small ones. The area for one animal should be only 0.3 m2. Approximate dimensions:

• length - 250 cm;
• width - 100 cm;
• height - 40-50 cm.

In rare cases, separate houses are not made for rabbits and they are kept in standard sections. But here you will need to initially calculate the area according to the number of young animals.

Rabbit with young

Before building a house for a rabbit with offspring, you should draw a diagram dividing the total area into two sections. This will be the feed section and the mother section. Also, the design should provide for a hole located slightly above the floor, approximately 150 mm. The rabbit can easily step over the overestimated threshold, but at the same time, the probability of the rabbits falling out of the nest is excluded.

The size of the house for living creatures corresponds to the following parameters:

• depth - 800 mm;
• width - 1200 mm;
• height - 600 mm.

These are the parameters of the uterine department, it is located in the house in front of the birth.

• length - 400 mm;
• width - 400 mm;
• height - 200 mm.

giant breeds

The dimensions of the enclosure for domestic rabbits of giants completely depend on the breed of the animal and the intensity of its growth. In houses of standard dimensions, such individuals will be very crowded; enlarged enclosures will be required here. The minimum dimensional parameters for making a cage for rabbits are 0.75x0.55x1.7 m.

So that a do-it-yourself aviary for rodents does not collapse in the first month of use, some recommendations from experts should be taken into account:

1. Rabbits are rodents, eager to try everything that comes into view, "to the tooth". Therefore, if you plan to make cages with your own hands from wood, you need to protect the material by covering all protruding parts with metal sheets. This does not require large investments and time, but the aviary will last for many years.
2. It is not recommended to treat the sections with antiseptic agents, varnishes, impregnations and other chemical protection. The fact is that animals do not tolerate the evaporation of chemicals and can be poisoned.
3. A moisture-resistant coating should be used for the roof. If the made animal cage will be located on the street, traditional slate will serve as the best option.

In outdoor structures, the roof is made of wood, ondulin or slate - the metal heats up quickly, and animals can die in summer

1. For the frame, you need to use wooden bars with a section of 5x5 cm or metal profiles. As a sheathing material, a regular chain-link mesh with cells of 2.5x2.5 cm is used. The back part must be made deaf, since drafts are dangerous for rabbits.
2. For the manufacture of the floor, a grid of 2.5x2.5 cm or 1x2.5 cm is used. These cell sizes allow you not to keep waste inside the house and lower it into a special tank.

The cast floor for the aviary is not only inconvenient, but also not hygienic. The fact is that rabbits have very caustic urine with a concentrated odor, and this will quickly rot the material and create an unpleasant odor. If the rabbit breeder wants to make the aviary more environmentally friendly, then instead of a grid on the floor, you can lay a lattice of wood bars in increments of 5-10 mm.

The floor can be covered with plywood to prevent pododermatitis in pets, but it will have to be dried regularly. It is convenient when there are 2-3 such sheets, while one is in a cage, the others are dried.

We make cages for rabbits with our own hands

Drawings of a rabbit cage can be found on the Internet, as well as made independently, taking into account the necessary parameters or focusing on the standard ones - 1.5x0.7x0.7 m. But the scheme, as experienced rabbit breeders do, often involves the construction of paired houses. Thus, you can significantly save on material. In this case, the frame will have such parameters as 3x0.7x1.2 m with a back height of 100 cm.

Simple design

Before building a cage for rabbits with your own hands, prepare the tools and the following materials:

• plywood sheet - 1.5x1.5 m with a thickness of 1 cm;
• wooden bars 3 m with a section of 30x50 - 10 units;
• self-tapping screws for 3 cm and 7 cm - 2 kg;
• chain-link mesh with cell parameters 1.5 cm - 3 m.

The order of work is as follows:

1. From wooden beams, assemble a solid frame with dimensions of 3x0.7x1.2 m and a back wall height of 1 m. As a result, you will get supports for a sloping roof and a raised floor from the bottom. A mesh is attached as a floor covering. In the mother liquor, the lower part will be monolithic.

1. Cut off a part with the required dimensions for the back wall from the plywood sheet and attach it with self-tapping screws. Also set a segment on the side where you plan to place the mother liquor.

1. Decide on the location of the mother liquor and, after you make the markup correctly, install a vertical wooden beam and fix a wall with a manhole and logs on it for the subsequent installation of the cover.
2. Further, after the partial manufacture of an aviary for rabbits with your own hands, you need to build a feeder. It is mounted in the middle of the enclosure on a pre-installed vertical bar. Near this feed tank, a hay section is installed; it is made of steel wire stretched over a square wooden frame.

1. A frame is mounted on the front part for installing doors 30x50 cm. A roofing covering is laid on top with an allowance of 5 cm in front and 10 on the other sides.

It should be noted that the doors of the aft compartment should consist of mesh, but for the mother compartment, 70% should be made of wood, and a small part is closed with a chain-link to allow light to enter.

VIDEO: Detailed instructions for building houses

Making cages for little rabbits

Babies already weaned from their mothers are kept, as a rule, in one large house of 15-20 individuals. The size is chosen based on the minimum area per animal - 0.3 sq.m. In total, for 20 kids, a cage measuring 3x2 meters with a ceiling height of 0.6 meters should be obtained. The back wall is covered with plywood to prevent drafts. The floor is made of thin metal slats, covered with a metal mesh with a rod thickness of up to 1.5 mm and cells of 1.5x4 cm.

Group design for young animals

If the floor is mesh, be sure to install a warm booth where the rabbits can bask. With the onset of cold weather, it is insulated with hay and straw.

If it is not possible to build a separate "kindergarten", young animals can be settled in cages for adults, but the area should be selected based on the minimum sanitary standard and ease of care.

Cages for large rabbits

It is clear that the usual dimensions are not suitable for such large breeds. So, for example, a blue Viennese at the age of one already reaches 60 cm and weighs more than 7 kg.

If you are planning to get giants, you need to immediately understand what kind of cages they will need and what sizes you need to focus on. Among the large breeds:

• butterfly;
• German Risen;
• white giant;
• gray giant;
• motley giant;
• flandre;
• Soviet chinchilla;
• ram;
• Viennese blue, etc.

The minimum dimensions for one representative of the breed should be as follows:

• height 0.6-0.65 m;
• length 1.0-1.6 m;
• width 0.7-0.8 m.

Please note that this is the maximum permissible minimum, in fact, such dimensions should be increased by at least another 10-20 cm in all directions.

Given the massive weight, they strengthen the floor well - they also make it from wooden bars and cover it with a metal mesh with a rod diameter of at least 2.5 mm.

Some breeders recommend making a solid floor with plastic pallets, but this is only justified if there are few cages. It is cleaned here twice a day, otherwise the animal very quickly becomes ill with pododermatitis.

What should be inside the cell

Depending on the age and breed, the internal content is different. So, for young animals there should be a warm house inside the cage, where you can keep warm. For a female with an offspring, queen cells and nesting compartments will be needed.

Separately, in a cage, you can equip an aviary for walking (for young animals). Plus, you will need storage bins, drinkers, feeders, grass compartments.

The feeder and drinker, no matter what material they are made of, is placed outside the cage. This makes it easier to add food and water, and the animal is not tempted to chew them.

In conclusion, it must be added that rabbit cages are always located in a place protected from the wind - outdoors or indoors. It is advisable to choose the western or southwestern side so that the animal does not suffer from heat in the summer. Sizes must exactly match the breed, age and number of individuals.

VIDEO: Construction of queen cells

For the successful keeping and breeding of rabbits, it is very important to choose the right cage for them, because the well-being of animals and their ability to reproduce directly depend on its structure and type of material. Good, warm and comfortable housing is the key to good health of the pet and good weight gain. There are two options - buy a finished cage in a specialized store or make it yourself. It would seem that the first option is easier and simpler, but it is preferable to do it yourself, taking into account all the necessary sizes, depending on the expected number of individuals and the breed of pets. Having decided to breed rabbits, it is important to determine the place where their cage will be located.

First of all, you need to take care of protecting your pets from the cold wind and sunlight in the summer. Ideally, it is better to make a roof of a removable type, this will facilitate the process of disinfecting the cage. So, how to make cages for rabbits with your own hands: all sizes and drawings are presented below.

Types of cages for keeping rabbits

The main types of cages, mainly used by rabbit breeders in practice, are presented in the list below:

• a cage with an aviary for walking a rabbit;
• standard cells with and without queen cells;
• a cage built according to the method of I. N. Mikhailov;
• cell according to the method of N. I. Zolotukhin.

Each cell has a standard basis - these are walls, floor, ceiling and frame, door. Let's take a closer look at cell types.

An example of a drawing of a two-section cage for rabbits can be seen in the photo below.

Ordinary cell (with or without a queen cell)

Standard cage, as a rule, on high legs, with a mesh floor and a pallet, with two sections separated by a partition with the possibility of moving from section to section. They are a nest for a rabbit and a place for feeding. The entrance to the cage is closed with doors. The high legs of the structure allow you to protect animals as much as possible from moisture and drafts, they are usually made about half a meter. The mesh floor will allow the waste products of rabbits not to linger in the cage; with the help of a pallet, everything is easily removed and the animals are clean. Such cells can be found very often, they require minimal costs and a small amount of materials. Often, mesh floor designs are used when they are bred, since the paws of this breed of animals are resistant to damage.

Cage with an aviary for walking rabbits

It is an ordinary cage (discussed above) made of a wooden frame, often on legs, an aviary for walking is attached to such a cage.
Given the mobility of pets and love for an active lifestyle, the presence of a place for walking has an extremely positive effect on the health of rabbits and increases their reproductive qualities. During the summer months, allows the animals to enjoy the fresh grass and soak up the morning sun. It is necessary to take into account all the details so that the pets cannot escape from the aviary and cats or mice do not climb to them.

Do-it-yourself rabbit cages: drawings according to Zolotukhin

The main difference between such a cage and other designs is as follows: it does not have a queen cell for a rabbit. It is assumed that the best option would be if she chooses a suitable place for herself. The feeder and drinking bowl are located above the front door. In such cages, there is no pallet and a mesh floor; instead, only the back side of the structure is covered with a mesh.

Use a small metal mesh. Analyzing the behavior of rabbits, you can see that they relieve themselves at the back of their homes. These cages are built using slate or boards. For the manufacture of the frame and partitions, boards up to two centimeters thick are used. The floor and roof are made of slate, in the absence of such - from the same boards as the cage frame. Wooden surfaces are upholstered with thin sheet metal.

Consider the construction of such a cell step by step:

The ground floor of the structure should be located at a distance of fifty centimeters from the ground to protect the rabbits from moisture and cold. The cage frame itself is made using four two-meter beams, the width of the frame should be two meters in finished form, and the depth should be eighty centimeters. Thus, three floors are built.

1. The floor of each floor must be made at an angle of five centimeters to the back of the cage, so that animal feces can drain. Each floor is divided into two halves by wooden slats, the distance between them should be about thirty centimeters, in the future there will be a sennik. The walls of the structure are made of wooden boards. Each floor is half covered with a board or slate, the resulting gap is closed with a fine mesh.
2. The back wall must be made of a moisture-resistant material, polycarbonate is well suited, it can withstand fairly high humidity, while not deteriorating or rotting. The lattice of the upper floor ends and a polycarbonate sheet is attached to it at an angle.
3. It is convenient to make caged doors one common for all floors; metal hooks are attached to the door.
4. Additionally, it is possible to equip each floor with side doors for fattening, latches must be attached to each door.

Considering that rabbits love to gnaw everything and do it well, each inner corner is covered with metal for protection.

The roof of the cage is made in such a way that it protrudes from the common part of the frame at least five centimeters forward on all sides, in order to prevent rainwater from entering the room to the pets.

Cages for rabbits according to the Mikhailov method

Cages for rabbits according to the Mikhailov method are the most complex and expensive, but at the same time the most convenient to use. They provide for a single waste system for the vital activity of rabbits, heating of a mother liquor with rabbits and rabbits, separate shelves for animals and a ventilation system. Their main feature is sectionality - they include from two to four separate sections with a single compartment for collecting rabbit waste.

The first cages of this plan were designed for two adult animals, improved designs are designed for several teenage rabbits or two rabbits expecting offspring. There are two-tiered and single-tiered cages. The construction of this type of cage is tied to the cardinal points, to protect it from the cold wind, the back wall is made deaf and located to the north. In addition to the back side, three others are made of mesh material. The mechanism for heating the mother liquor is necessarily turned on, ventilation of the premises is provided.

The floors of the cage according to the Mikhailov method are made of slats laid diagonally. To simplify the design, conventionally such cells are divided into three parts:

• upper, consisting of one or two tiers;
• lower - sealed part for collecting manure;
• pedestal.

Thanks to the stand, the entire structure is fixed on the ground; without it, the cage can roll over. The total height of the legs is 140 cm, additional beams are installed at a distance of 40 cm from the ground for the most durable fixation. Feeders and drinkers for rabbits are located inside the building, queen cells are in the center. To perform such a design with your own hands, you must have the correct drawing with the exact dimensions. The dimensions of the cage made using this method are relatively small; for two adults, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure will be 1.4 square meters. The height of the building is 210 cm, the width of the sections is 80 cm each, the height is 70 cm. The angle of inclination of the lower section is 45 degrees. The drinking bowl in the cage is set to an arbitrary size, depending on the size of the section in which the pet lives. Consider the principle of building such a cage for four adult rabbits. Animal feeder is 15 cm long, 12 cm wide and 30 cm high.

So, in order to make this design at home with your own hands, you must have:

• bars;
• slats;
• boards;
• metal mesh;
• automatic drinkers for pets;
• mother liquor heater;
• box for animal feces;
• staples;
• self-tapping screws;
• stapler;
• screwdriver
• drill;
• nails of various sizes and hammers;
• sheet iron;
• material for protecting internal corners;
• slate ruberoid.

Consider the construction of such a cage step by step. For an example for a detailed description of the construction, let's take a single-tier cage in three compartments. Having understood the principle of the method, it will not be difficult to finish building the upper floors after. We assemble the cage frame, in accordance with the required dimensions and drawings.

1. We start building the frame from the frame, then we build the cage itself and lay the floor in it diagonally with slats. Separately, we prepare the doors for the cage, install them, not forgetting the latches.
2. We install automatic drinkers for animals inside the living quarters, hang pre-prepared drinkers on the outside (also made in accordance with the dimensions of the drawings).
3. The mother liquor for the rabbit and the rabbits is separated by a partition, in which a door for the exit is supposed. Do not forget that the mother liquor should be as dark as possible for the comfort of newborn rabbits.
4. We make a roof, strengthen the slate with self-tapping screws.
5. We make a pitched surface for manure in the form of a rectangular funnel. A container is installed under the funnel to collect waste and waste products of rabbits.

An important point in such cages is that little rabbits are not separated from their mother. They are constantly with her in a heated mother liquor and have the opportunity to receive mother's milk for as long as possible, which significantly increases the immunity of animals.

Mikhailov's method is based, first of all, on the fact that rabbits do not have direct contact with a person, for them this is a very serious stress. The idea of ​​such an automatic house, where pets have round-the-clock access to a feeder and drinker, has made it possible to achieve incredible results. Rabbits living in such cages practically do not get sick, breed well and gain weight very quickly. There are even four-month-old individuals weighing up to six kilograms.

Video. DIY rabbit cage

The content of eared has long been practiced by industrial farms and ordinary people who have decided to organize a small farm on their site. Keeping fluffy animals is a pleasure, as they do not require constant attention and are quite easy to care for. In order for the business to succeed, animals should be provided with comfortable living conditions. Today we will tell you what cages for rabbits you can make with your own hands.

When choosing a place for the future residence of animals and installing their cage houses, you need to pay attention to some parameters of the selected territory.

Cages for eared wards can be placed:

• on the street;
• indoors.

Of course, the first option is suitable only for those farms that are located on the territory of the southern regions with a consistently warm and mild climate. Otherwise, in winter, the animals will not survive on the street without shelter. If you and your rabbits are planning to live in just such a fertile place, consider the following rules.

1. The norm of air humidity, which is well tolerated by rabbits, has an upper limit of 75%. They will not be able to physically transfer it to a larger percentage, they will begin to wither and get sick. Based on this, a dry place should be chosen for installing the cells, located far from water bodies, best of all on a hill.
2. There are recommendations regarding the sun's rays. Eared people like to bask under them only in cartoons, in life it will only bring harm and lead to epidemic diseases and death of animals. To prevent direct sunlight from falling on the cells, install them in the shade of garden trees or organize canopies. If rabbit breeding is your life's work, you can plant a bush fence that will scatter the sun's rays, passing through itself.

During warming, pay attention to those cages that are prepared for pregnant rabbits and newborn rabbits.

Enclosed room requirements for rabbits

Growing, breeding and feeding rabbits

Building a comfortable cage for rabbits is less than half the battle. It is equally important to properly organize the process of keeping, feeding and breeding rabbits. Read to find out what features exist in the process of raising rabbits and what is the difference in the way they are kept.

Let's start building

Before starting construction work, you need to choose the right materials that will be used in its process.

Necessary materials

When creating dwellings for rabbits, it is better to give preference to natural materials in order to bring the keeping of animals as close as possible to natural conditions. Therefore, as the basis for the cages, it is necessary to choose high quality wooden bars, which are additionally treated with antiseptics.

Additionally, to build cells, we need:

• boards and quality wood;
• thin plywood;
• welded wire mesh;
• slats made of wood, 3-4 centimeters wide;
• metal wire of medium thickness;
• wide plastic pallets according to the size of the cages;

It is best to sheathe the inner surface of the cage walls with plywood, as it is a moisture-resistant and strong material. Chipboard, for example, is not suitable for this purpose, as it absorbs moisture and collapses from swelling.

What are rabbit cages

All rabbit cages are built according to some general principles, however, they still have differences. All the nuances of the construction depend on what breeds and individuals of the rabbit people will live inside the cells under construction. Your farm will have at least a few species, and here's why.

As you can see, cells can differ in many ways, depending on the characteristics of future residents. However, for each of them there is a general construction instruction, which varies depending on the purpose. Let's start reviewing it.

Important nuances

Before voicing the instruction itself, we will discuss some important points. The standard dimensions of a spacious rabbit cage are:

• 120-170 centimeters long;
• about 50 centimeters in height;
• 70-80 centimeters wide.

As a rule, if the cell parameters change, then only the length is reduced. Height and width remain standard, since it is these parameters that are most comfortable for care.

Mixing rabbits of different sexes in the same cage is prohibited, as this can lead to:

• uncontrolled mating;
• difficult-to-track pregnancies;
• fights between males for the attention of females;
• fights of females for the attention of males;
• strangulation by warring females of each other's offspring.

Instructions for self-building a cage for rabbits

So, let's move on to the step-by-step instructions for building a cage for rabbits. We propose to consider housing for eared, consisting of two sections. In one of them, adults will live, in the second - female queens with offspring. For a while, until you have a nursing female with cubs, you can put houses for rabbits in the nesting compartment, in which they will hide when they are in a bad mood and want to take a break from fluffy cohabitants.

Let's start building.

Step 1

Take the prepared wooden bars and treat them with antiseptics. This is necessary to prevent the decay of the tree and the penetration of harmful microorganisms into its structures, which can further spoil the health of the eared.

Remember, the composition of antiseptics should be as gentle as possible and not contain a large amount of chlorine, which burns wood and destroys its structure. This is important, since the exploitation of cells is merciless and it is necessary that they serve for a long time.

Step 2

Take a wooden beam prepared ahead of time and saw it so that you get parts with the following parameters:

• 4 beams of 1.5 meters;
• the same number of bars of 55 centimeters;
• two pairs of bars of 70 centimeters.

Instead of four bars 55 centimeters long, only two and two more 35 centimeters can be made. The smaller ones will be set up as frame pieces for the back of the cage where we will place the queen nest.

Step 3

Connect the shortest and half-meter bars together to make two identical figures. If the parameters of the bars for the frame of the front and back of the cage are the same for you, then you get a rectangle, if different - a trapezoid.

Step 4

Now connect the rectangles together using pieces of wood 70 centimeters long. You should end up with a wooden frame structure that resembles a large box in shape.

Step 5

Let's start installing the floor. It can be made from several different materials. We present a comparative table of the pros and cons of each of them.

A good solution would be to use combinations, for example, the first layer can be made from a metal profile welded in the usual way, without small and frequent holes. The second layer is made from a fine mesh. The profile will prevent it from deforming and such a floor will last a long time.

It is impossible to make the floor non-mesh in the main compartment, since animal feces will pass through the holes and accumulate in the tray under the cage.

Install the selected material on most of the future floor of the cage and fix it with fasteners. Leave 40-50 centimeters blank

Step 6

The rest of the unfilled space under the floor must be made of wood and solid, as there will be a rabbit's nest. It is best to screw a board to the bars, always well polished, so that the animal does not get injured. At the junction of the cells and the board, screw in a metal rail and weld the mesh to it.

Step 7

Let's move on to wall coverings. The back is also made of boards sanded and impregnated with sparing antiseptics. The front is made mesh so that you can watch what your pets are doing. Leave the ceiling uncovered.

Step 8

We sheathe the plank walls from the inside of the cage using plywood. The material must be multi-layered and of good quality. The thickness can be any, but it is not necessary to take a very thick sheet so as not to make the structure too weighty.

You can fasten plywood with self-tapping screws or nails. The main thing is that the sharp part of the nail does not come out from the outside and does not injure you when caring for the cage.

Step 9

We are building a roof. To do this, we need a sheet of plywood and hinges, as on doors or cabinets. At the beginning, we fasten the hinges to one of the upper bars of the frame, then we put a sheet of good plywood on them. Here it is better to choose a thicker material, because the roof of the house will constantly rise and fall. Make sure it fits snugly. If there are large gaps between the frame and the roof, harmful drafts cannot be avoided.

If it was not possible to fit the lid tightly to the frame, do not despair. Take some felt or synthetic winterizer and cover the roof around the perimeter. This can be done even if there are no gaps, since in winter such insulation is useful for eared ones.

Step 10

At the junction of the mesh and boards, install a plank that goes from floor to ceiling and from wall to wall. Make a hole of medium size beforehand so that the rabbits can move freely from one cage to another.

Step 11

Place the cages on the supports that have been previously installed in the rabbitry. Now, from the bottom of the cage, mount the pallet. It can only match the size of the mesh part of the floor, since the feces of the rabbit and baby rabbits will not seep through the wooden floors.

Step 12

Now install feeders and drinkers inside the cages. They can also be made with your own hands from wood, in the form of small troughs. Be sure to find a place for hay. Some rabbit breeders place it in makeshift hanging structures so that the rabbits can reach it and at the same time not trample it, turning it into bedding.

Now that you've learned how to make the easiest version of rabbit cages, let's turn our attention to other popular options.

family cell

The family dwelling for the eared no longer consists of two, but of three sections. A male sire with good quality characteristics of health and appearance is settled there. Females settle in the lateral compartments, and the male in the middle compartment. Manholes are being equipped between the rooms, this time with valves. This is necessary so that at the moment one of the females is ready to conceive, release her to the inseminator, and then do the same with the other rabbit.

This cell construction option is considered very effective for breeding thoroughbred animals, as it allows you to pre-sort individuals that are suitable for each other and track upcoming pregnancies.

Construction features

Let's name some points in the construction of cages from three sections that will help you with the construction.

Cages for rabbits in two tiers

The construction of a two-tier structure of rabbit cages is not too different from a single-tier one. Such a structure will have the following parameters:

• height of 2 - 2.5 meters;
• width of 1.4 meters;
• along the edges of the structure, every 10 centimeters are given over to the installation of feeders.

Dimensions may vary depending on your idea, but making a smaller cage is not rational.

Building instructions

So, we proceed to the construction of a two-tier cage.

A photo	Step
	Step 1. In the same way as in the first instruction, we connect the bars to make four frame frames. Each of them will serve as the bottom and top for two cages. We also saw off eight bars of the same height for the corner parts of the cell "skeleton".
	Step 2 We make floors for cages. Most, as in the case of a single-tier structure, will be mesh, the smaller one will be solid, from the board. At the back wall we leave a small distance of about 10 centimeters, where we will place a drain for animal waste. This distance should be closed with a dense mesh with larger cells than the main one for the floor.
	Step 3 The back wall is made of boards, then sheathed from the inside with plywood. The side and front walls are also equipped with a mesh with medium-sized cells.
	Step 4 With the help of rails and metal plugs, we separate inside the house for eared compartments, leaving a place between them for a sennik in the shape of the English letter “V”.
	Step 5 We fasten metal sheets to the waste slope compartment that go to the pallet under the cage. Each cage has its own collection of feces and is installed so that it can be pulled out and cleaned. For the upper tier, it is placed on the ceiling of the lower tier, and for the lower tier, it is placed on special corners of the stand mounted in the holding frame for cages.
	Step 6 We equip roofs for each of the tiers of plywood, nailed with felt or dense linoleum.

To care for animals in cages, make a hinged back wall or roof.

Video - Cage for rabbits, independent construction

Cell according to the Mikhailov method

To date, there are many popular ways of breeding eared. One of the most effective is Mikhailov's mini-farm. Features of the mini-farm are as follows. It allows you to get a large number of healthy offspring and grow them into productive sexually mature individuals with minimal attention from the farmer.

Design features of the Mikhailov mini-farm allow you to achieve the following positive effects.

Cleansing of cells occurs without human intervention. And we are talking not only about animal feces, but also about food waste containing harmful fumes. Rabbits do not inhale them and remain healthy. Due to the fact that such a high level of hygiene is maintained inside the rabbit houses, insect carriers of infection do not fly inside, as they simply have nothing to profit from.

Adding food and adding water to the feeders occurs once a week. Yes, now you are relieved of the need to constantly monitor the presence of these nutrients in the cells of the wards every day. The fact is that the feeders are constantly filled by themselves, as the food from the feeders is eaten. Another plus is that in winter the water in the drinkers is automatically heated.

The areas for pregnant and calving rabbits with offspring are also warmed up in frosts, which allows you to cross animals all year round and ensure the health of newborns.

The internal structure of the cell is as close as possible to natural conditions, which provokes the connection of instincts in animals. So, the mother liquor resembles an animal hole, since it is located below the main level of the cell, and the entrance to it really imitates a rabbit hole. The ceiling in the nesting compartment is tilted, as if it really is not a cage, but an eared dugout.

Open areas of the wall alternate with closed ones so that rabbits can get privacy and take a break from attention from humans or other animals.

Mikhailov's cage is also equipped with hinged doors that allow the rabbits to take the rabbit in unnoticed or, vice versa, add it. This is necessary when the birth of too small or large litter in one individual. If there are too many cubs, the mother can kill or eat several alive. In this case, it is imperative to transplant the cub and transfer it to the uterus in which a small offspring was born.

The part of the cage that is installed to the north is insulated. The south side, on the contrary, is equipped with ventilation so that fresh air enters the houses. The roof is equipped with a pipe through which gases from animal feces are emitted. Feeders and drinkers are sealed so that waste does not get into them.

Design Considerations

The area of ​​each cell is 1.4 m 2 . Inside is placed up to 25 heads. The main structural element is a shed - a shed, consisting of several tiers of rabbit cages in one or two tiers. Such a shed can contain 70 houses. If we take this number as a basis, then queens will live in 35 of them, and adult males and young rabbits will live in the rest.

It is customary to make about two rows of cells, occupying together 8.5 m 2. These cells have only one roof.

Implemented cell "Mikhailov"

The shelf life of Mikhailov's mini-farm is about 20 years. Further, it will have to be updated or completely replaced with a new design.

Necessary materials

We warn you, if you do not have sufficient experience in construction, it is easier to purchase a Mikhailov cage. But if you are sure that you can handle it, stock up on the following materials:

• sheets of plywood;
• paint;
• nails;
• roofing iron;
• wooden beam;
• boards;
• ruberoid;
• Fiberboard soft and hard;
• picket fence.

Assembling the stand

Assemble the stand by carefully examining its image in the photo. In the horizontal section of the stand there will be a supporting part for a makeshift transformer compartment, as well as shelves for tools and a bench. A rectangular hole is also arranged here, leading from a sealed tank to a hopper for collecting excrement, which flows into it along the shaft walls. The shaft is covered with fiberboard and roofing felt, resistant to frost and moisture.

Walking area and nests

Two pairs of racks are mounted on the stand, the cross section of which should not exceed 10 centimeters. They will be supported by a tier below, consisting of several compartments, in which the rabbits are caught for inspection or deposited.

The walking compartment is equipped with a drinking bowl and a feeder. In its lower part there is a hole measuring 20 by 20 centimeters, which goes into the mine. The floor is lined with a fence laid on slats, which are upholstered with strips of metal to protect against rodents. The flooring is made at an angle of 45 degrees.

The nest compartment is equipped with a hinged door, which leans back and forms a free area for interacting with the rabbits. The location of the bottom of the mother liquor goes down relative to the level of the main floor by 9 centimeters. Outside, the walls of the house for mother and baby are insulated with any available materials. The entrance to the department is also insulated. For its arbitrary overlap, a view is installed.

Drinkers and feeders

The drinker is represented by an automatic structure. The water trough itself can be anything, even a plastic bowl, even a wooden one. This bowl has outlets from several 5 liter canisters. Centimeter holes are drilled in each canister lid so that the water drains down gradually and only when the rabbit has drunk enough so that the trough does not overfill.

What size the area of ​​​​the drinking compartment will have directly depends on the capacity and size of the canister itself, as well as the trough. The door to the compartment is made of plywood and metal sheet. One end of the watering trough should be hidden from the rabbits in order to install a small electric heater there, which automatically starts working when the air temperature drops below + 8 ° C.

A feeder is installed next to the drinker, into which compound feed in granules is poured. It is installed in a small gap between the parts of the flooring, in which the disposal device is located. Waste gets into it - crumbs and flour, as well as pellets trampled by rabbits. And from there they roll into the disposal.

The feed bowl for roughage is located at the top and bottom of the farm. From the outside of the cage, a tank is hung to it, in which hay and vegetables are laid.

Installation of the upper tier

The upper tier can serve as a mother and jigging level. In the first case, it is made at an angle, in the same way as described above. In the second, they are divided into two sections of different sizes, into which small rabbits will then be placed.

The length of the upper tier is 25 centimeters longer than the lower one. A drinker and a feeder are also installed in each of the sections according to the methods described above.

Roof

The roof is made inclined, a pipe for ventilation of the premises is mounted on top of it. This pipe is necessary to remove accumulations of harmful fumes from the cell, which are released during the life of the eared.

Bottom part

At the bottom of the cage is equipped with a box into which rabbit droppings are poured. This allows the use of animal excrement for gardening purposes and eliminates the need for the farmer to constantly clean the cages from faeces.

Mikhailov's cage is an effective option for the rabbit breeding business. This design requires minimal labor and time costs from the farmer. So, it takes about half an hour a week to care for animals - to fill the feeders, drinkers and clean the trays. The eared ones kept in such a farm gain such weight in three months of their life that rabbits in the usual content can only get at 6-8 months.

Cages for rabbits Zolotukhina

Another famous farm concept for efficient rabbit breeding. Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin studied the life of rabbits in natural conditions from an early age and, in the prime of his career, developed this amazing structure that increases the efficiency of raising rabbits by activating their natural instincts.

Zolotukha cage farm has three tiers, it is made quite simply. Let's start reviewing the instructions for its manufacture.

To build a cage, we need:

• wooden bars;
• boards;
• metal grid;
• sheet iron;
• quality polycarbonate;
• slate.

Building instructions

So, first of all, let's determine the dimensions of the future cell:

• the width of the rabbit dwelling is 2 meters;
• building height - 1.5;
• the depth of the structure is not more than 80 centimeters;
• rear floor slope - 5 centimeters;
• the mesh at the back wall takes 20 centimeters;
• doors are made in the form of a square with 40 centimeters of length on one side.

Let's start building.

A photo	Step
	Step 1. Scaffolds for cells are assembled according to the method already familiar to you. Each of them is divided into two equal halves, between which there is a small distance for placing a sennik.
	Step 2 For the floor this time, not a mesh is used, but a durable slate. When laying and attaching sheets of slate to the frame, expect that you need to retreat 20 centimeters from the back wall. This space is covered with a welded mesh, through which the feces of the eared will leave.
	Step 3 Now let's start making the walls. The back walls are made from carbonate sheets at a certain angle. The upper part of each of the walls is mounted to the end of the slate floor of the next tier in height. At the topmost tier, it is straight. Thanks to this design, rabbit droppings roll over the walls of each of the tiers and eventually fall into the pan.
	Step 4 We make a door for queen cells and feed compartments. In the first case, we prepare it from wood and insulate it to create the necessary conditions for the rabbits. In the second - we make from the grid.
	Step 5 Nests for summer content are also made with mesh walls. They are separated from the remaining space by a wooden partition, which can then be removed and a spacious cage for young animals can be obtained. Winter queen cells are wooden, with closed walls. The entrance to it is also wooden, with a closing hole, the lower part of which is in contact with the floor. Hay is spread on the floor.
	Step 6 We make feeders. These devices are a tray that occupies most of the cage wall located in front. The feeder is inserted into the cage only one third, its bottom is made at an angle. This is necessary so that the feeder can be filled from the outside without opening the cage. A drinker is also installed inside.

Zolotukhin cells are famous and have been successful for many decades. The ease of manufacture makes them popular and the rabbit breeding effect is amazing.

Cages for dwarf rabbits: step by step instructions

Not only farmers can make a cage for a rabbit, but also those who have chosen this cute animal as their pets. Of course, it is easier to buy such a structure, but it costs a lot of money, which can instead be spent on buying vitamins and food for the eared.

Making a rabbit house with your own hands will take very little time and will not require serious labor.

Step 1. Assemble the cage frame according to the mechanism described above. This time the wireframe parameters will be as follows:

• length - 1 meter;
• the height of the bars for the back wall is 55 centimeters;
• the height of the bars for the side walls is 70 centimeters;
• frame width - 70 centimeters.

Step 2 Assemble the frame so that there is a distance of 15 centimeters between the lower end of the back wall and the future floor.

Step 3 Nail wide wooden slats to the bottom of the cage or install a welded mesh from a metal profile. This support is needed to stiffen the future mesh floor. When the rails or profile are installed, mount a fine mesh on top.

Step 4 Make cage walls. The back can be made from plywood or boards, and the rest from a metal mesh with medium-sized cells. Make one of the walls also plywood or wood and cut a hole in it for the door.

Step 5 Make a door from a wooden frame and metal mesh and put it on hinges to the hole.

Summing up

Now you know many of the most popular ways to build rabbit cages. The choice of the option that suits you will be based on the following nuances:

• starting budget;
• rabbit breeding experience;
• region of residence;
• livestock size, etc.

The main requirement is high quality construction

So, for example, cages using the Mikhailov mini-farm method will help to minimize labor costs and loss of time for caring for animals, however, it is very difficult to place this serious structure inside the barn, which makes the use of the structure in regions with long cold winters almost impossible. In addition, the equipment of such a cage requires money and construction experience. Beginning rabbit breeders will not benefit from spending so much money, especially if they are not sure that they want to keep rabbits for many years.

Zolotukhin's cages do not require large financial costs, but they imply that the number of rabbits contained in them will not be small. Therefore, this option is not entirely rational for farmers starting out in the rabbit business.