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A. Removing the top cover
2. Close the protective cover, lift the handle and remove the screw to the left of the handle.
3. To remove the cover, press the latch inward at the base of the handle and remove the cover together with the handle.
B. Removing the side cover
2. Remove the screws from the bottom of the machine A and B. Screw B the smaller of the 2 screws located there.
3. Position the machine vertically and remove the plug from the side cover below the flywheel using a small screwdriver.
4. Remove the screw FROM.
C. Verification
1. After checking the relative position of the parts, look at the upper shaft from the side of the right support, between the support and the shaft limit washer. Check for any darkening, scuffing of the shaft. If darkening is present, the bearing shaft and bushing must be replaced.
2. Loosen the set screw on the left end of the top shaft. Try to move the shaft from left to right. If the shaft does not move, this also indicates that the shaft and sleeve need to be replaced.
D. Shaft replacement
1. To begin the shaft replacement procedure, place the top counterweighted shaft in front of you so that you can access the retaining screw and positioning washer screw. Note that the single lobe on the positioning washer is to the right (remember the position). Remove the fixing screw and the positioning washer screw.
3. Remove the screws BUT and AT.
4. Remove the thread drive unit (thread take-up unit) and place it behind the machine.
6. Using a hammer and a 3.0 mm center punch, remove the pin from the counterweight.
7. Position an impact driver or punch on the end of the top shaft in the counterweight (see inset). Knock out the shaft to the right about 1.5 cm.
10. Remove the top shaft. Remove and set aside the retainer, retainer screw, positioning washer and its screw.
11. Using a small screwdriver, tap the upper shaft bushing towards the inside of the machine with a light blow. Be careful not to damage the molded parts of the seats when doing this.
12. Install new bushings, install bushings with a rounded end into the mounting hole ...
13. ...make sure the bushing is flush with the seat casting.
14. Remove retainer, bushing and counterweight onto new shaft..
15. Remove the flywheel by pulling it out.
17. Remove the balance wheel and the metal and plastic washers.
18. Remove the belt pulley by turning it clockwise and pulling it out.
19. Remove the clutch springs from either end of the shaft ( BUT) or belt pulley ( B) by rotating clockwise and pulling out.
20. Use a 2.5mm screwdriver or hexagon to knock out the top shaft camshaft pulley pin and remove the topshaft camshaft pulley pulley, washers and shaft clutch bushing.
22. Remove the shaft from the ring coupling. Use an impact screwdriver...
23. Install the pulley on the new shaft using a 1.5mm hex screwdriver.
24. Install the gland washers, clutch bushing and O-ring on the right side of the shaft.
25. Hold the clutch sleeve with a 2.5mm hex screwdriver and position it so that the sleeve moves no more than 0.5mm from left to right. Then tighten the 2 clutch screws.
26. Install the clutch springs inside the clutch bush by turning the springs clockwise. The spring must be installed in the groove of the clutch sleeve.
27. Install the belt pulley by turning it clockwise until it stops.
28. Install the plastic, after the metal washer. Install the balance wheel with the flat side against the belt pulley.
30. Install the flywheel, making sure that the tabs on the flywheel fit into the slots on the balance wheel.
31. Insert the left end of the upper shaft through the belt into the seat sleeve.
32. Thread the end of the upper shaft through the positioning washer, yoke, gland and counterweight. Remember that the single lobe of the positioning washer must be on the right.
34. Move the release lever towards the front of the machine to protect it from impact from the clutch sleeve.
35. Install the pin against the counterweight through the shaft (a 1.5mm hex screwdriver can be used to poke). If the pin does not go through the shaft, remove the pin, rotate the shaft 180 degrees and reinstall the pin.
36. Position the machine with the counterweight forward. Move the shaft to the right, slide the retainer to the left, and tighten the retainer screw.
37. Set the positioning washer in such a position that it is located with a single blade to the right and up. Install the washer and screw, move the positioning washer to the right or left so that the petals pass through the sensor without hitting it. Tighten screw.
38. Install winder with screw. Make sure the end of the spring fits into the casting hole as shown.
41. Place the white thread guide between the two black parts of the thread holder.
42. Fix the thread drive unit with screws A and B.
Setting
1. Remove the presser foot, needle and bobbin case plate. Loosen the 2 screws of the drive pulley lower shaft (2.5 mm).
2. Before adjusting the hook, make sure the presser foot is in the down position. Insert the needle from the left.
3. Adjust the hook and needle so that the nose of the hook is about 1 mm above the needle eye in the left needle position.
4. Tighten the 2 screws of the drive pulley lower shaft (2.5 mm).
5. Install the bobbin case, needle plate and presser foot. Connect the power cord and turn on the machine. Select Zig Zag stitch (stitch #8). Turn the handwheel to make the needle swing to the right and left. The needle should be 7.8 to 8.2 mm above the surface of the needle plate when rolling.
6. As a point of reference, the needle should swing at the level of the presser foot when the presser foot is in the raised position.
7. To adjust, loosen the upper shaft positioning washer screw.
8. Turn the positioning washer in direction A if the needle is deflected more than 8.2mm above the needle plate and direction B if the end of the needle is less than 7.8mm above the needle plate. Tighten screw.
Installing the side cover
3. Install screws A and B from the bottom of the machine. Screw B is the smaller of the 2 screws located there.
Installing the Top Cover
1. To install the cover, press inward at the base of the handle and install the cover with the handle.
Good luck with the repair!
All the best, write© 2011
I will not go into details of how to adjust and adjust the sewing machine. JANOME. All adjustments are made as on the company's sewing machine. PFAFF Hobby422, if someone is interested in the details, then a complete disassembly, assembly and adjustment of Hobby422 can be viewed in DVD format on two discs.
But back to our JANOME car, front view, see fig. 1. There are two regulators on the sleeve of the machine: the left one (3) is designed to select the program and change the width of the zigzag; right (4) is used to change the stitch length and switch to stretch stitch
To the left of the controls is upper thread tension regulator(2) and on the sleeve of the machine the reverse button (5). The presser foot lift lever (1) is visible at the back.
To start adjusting the machine, you must first remove all body products:
- front side cover
- front,
- side stand cover
- back,
- lower.
To remove the back cover, you must first remove the side and bottom, then the front and lastly the back. Figure 2 shows the screw securing the front and rear covers.
Difficulty can only cause the dismantling of the back cover. In order to remove it, you need to press the machine with the upper part towards you, holding the lower part of the body product, pull it away from you until it comes off the machine body. Next, pull the entire back cover from left to right until it disengages from the presser foot lifter.
Attention.This operation must be done very carefully so as not to break the plastic case. After removing all body products, our machine looks like a top view - fig. 3, front view - fig. four.
- Upper thread tension regulator (Thermometer)
- Automation mechanism
- Winder
- Stitch length adjuster
- electric drive
- Shuttle housing
- Needle bar
- Presser bar
If you have already disassembled a Pfaff Hobby class sewing machine or watched a film on disassembling, assembling and setting up this machine, then the pictures show that the machines are almost the same.
Oscillating type shuttle assembled fig. 5 and exploded view, Fig. 6
Rice. 5 Fig.6
- Ring clamp lever
- pressure ring
- Shuttle
- bobbin case
- Shuttle pusher
- Shuttle pusher spring (attached with two screws)
- Shuttle seat.
Presser foot attachment has a lever instead of a button that serves to remove the foot, fig. 7
Thread take-up mechanism and needle bar frame can be seen in Fig. 8. The difference is that this machine has an adjustment mechanism for the buttonhole.
- Buttonhole lever
- Pendulum (frame) needle bar
- Lamellar spring of a clip of a frame
- Main shaft eccentric
- Thread take-up
- Thread guide fixing screws
- thread guide
P.S. When removing the front decorative panel, unscrew both screws and remove the thread guide.
On fig. 9 shows the machine from the flywheel side. Adjust the engine in such a way that the following rule is fulfilled: when pressing in the middle part of the toothed belt, the deflection was 1 cm.
fabric conveyor fastened with two screws, which periodically need to be tightened. On fig. 10 shows places where dirt and lint accumulate that interfere with the proper operation of the SEWING MACHINE. Number 1 marks the feed dog release lever.
Number 1 marks the feed dog release lever.
What I would like to say in conclusion, the car is of a budget type, works great, easy and intuitive control. The machine from the consumer does not require deep knowledge in setting up and repairing. With a correctly adjusted bobbin case, the consumer only needs to readjust with a thermometer (Upper Thread Tension Regulator). When the thermometer is in the range of 3-5, the machine should sew well.
The site has a lot of articles on the repair of sewing machines. However, first of all, these articles are of an informative nature, intended not for amateur craftsmen, but for owners of sewing machines.
From them you will learn how this or that sewing machine is arranged, what breakdowns it can have if the operating instructions are not followed. And finally, how to perform a simple repair of a sewing machine with your own hands, if it is not possible to contact the workshop.
In this article, you will learn how the Janome sewing machine works. What is the difference between inexpensive models of Janome machines, what breakdowns do they have and whether it can be repaired on their own.
1. Janome sewing machine with oscillating hook
This model of Janome sewing machine has an oscillating hook type. Such a shuttle is used only by Janome, but also by other sewing machine manufacturers. These are cars of the initial price, which you can buy in the range of 4-5 thousand. They are quite reliable and "hardy", but there are limits to everything, and after that, when it was on this machine (photo) that they decided to hem several jeans at once, it ended up in our workshop.
Look at the photo. The arrows indicate the nose of the shuttle and the eye of the needle. You can see that when the hook nose approaches the needle, the eye of the needle is too high, and therefore no stitches are formed. This is a very common failure. In quotation marks because such a failure occurs when the operating rules of any sewing machine are not followed, and Janome is no exception. This is not even a breakdown, but a violation of the interaction parameters of the shuttle mechanism and the needle. It happens at the moment of excessive load. And the execution of the finishing line on the hem of jeans is just that case. The toothed belt connecting the upper and lower shaft "skips a tooth" and the machine stops making stitches, although it still works fine. Jeans are probably the biggest "enemy" of all sewing machine manufacturers. How much they undermine the image of any of them. After all, it is jeans that most often disable household sewing machines.
To understand why this happens, and why jeans cannot be hemmed on household sewing machines, count how many layers of fabric are formed at the roughest point (the junction of the seams). From 9 - to 12 layers. Take a needle and try to pierce such an area with a hand needle, it is unlikely to succeed. Only if the needle is hammered.
But let's get back to our Janome sewing machine and try to figure out how such a failure occurred and whether it can be fixed on our own.
Firstly, it must be said that if the machine stops forming stitches normally, gaps appear, the thread breaks, then look at how the shuttle nose interacts with the needle.
Detach the presser foot, needle plate. Lay the machine on its side and remove the upper part of the shuttle so that the hook remains in its grooves and is not skewed. Now gently turn the handwheel and bring the hook nose up to the needle. If you find such a "picture" as in this photo, then the cause of the malfunction is different and the machine does not need to be disassembled. The photo shows that the nose of the shuttle fits, as it should be, 1.5-2 mm above the eye of the needle. If the spout is below the ear or flush with it, then you will have to disassemble the body of the machine in order to have access to the node we need.
I do not recommend disassembling modern sewing machines. There is nothing complicated about this, but only for someone who knows how to do it right. In any other case, there is always a desire to use a nail puller. Well, like all the screws are unscrewed, but the case is not disconnected. Be careful, you can easily break not only the body mount, but also the necessary part of the sewing machine.
Each machine uses its own options for attaching halves of the body. First you need to carefully study them, find them. For example, several pieces may be located under the front cover, in the area of \u200b\u200bthe upper thread tensioner, the shuttle mechanism (remove the needle plate).
Further, some of them "hide" under the plugs, which are easily removed with a knife blade. What else can you advise. Well, for example, for this model Janome does not need to remove the levers for switching types of stitches. By the way, do not forget about the reverse lever when you assemble the body back. In general, for a non-specialist it will be much more difficult not to disassemble it, but to assemble it, keep this in mind. Mark where and which screw was. And if you don’t have a single “extra” screw left, then you passed the attentiveness test by 5 points.
4. The device of the Janome sewing machine
If you are going to buy an inexpensive Janome sewing machine, you can look at these photos that demonstrate its design well. This will help you make the right choice.
In the next paragraph, you will find out the cause of the malfunction of this sewing machine.
If the copier is "dry", its grooves must be lubricated with grease.
Check the tension of the drive belt of the electric drive. If it is loose, slightly tighten it with the screws securing the motor to the housing. The belt must not be overtightened; when pressed with a finger, it should bend a little.
If your machine has "problems" with the tension of the upper thread, this knot is most likely the cause. Raise and lower the presser foot several times and check that this lever works correctly. It may need to be adjusted.
Behind the upper thread tensioner, there is a housing fixing screw. It is easy to unscrew, but not easy to put back. Put a screwdriver on the magnet for half an hour, and then it will be easier to install it.
The tensioner screws should not be unscrewed when removing the housing cover.
The cause of the malfunction was in this node, marked with an arrow. And it didn't take long to find out. Toothed beltconnecting the main shaft to the lower shaft, this model of the Janome sewing machine did not have. Instead, a crank mechanism was used. It is quite reliable and can withstand heavy loads, so the search for the cause of the failure was directed in the other direction.
However, later it turned out that during the hemming of jeans, the eccentric mounted on the main shaft and transmitting movement to the lower shaft shifted. As a result, without load, the parameters of the machine were normal, and when sewing, the line did not form. The fastening of this eccentric is inside (arrow).
After setting the correct parameters for the interaction of the needle and the nose of the shuttle and then tightening the fastening of the eccentric (screw), the breakdown was eliminated.
Janome sewing machines (Janome) have many different models designed for different categories of customers. There are a number of economical sewing machines, affordable and designed for small tailoring and repairing clothes at home.
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The famous Japanese brand Janome is famous for its excellent quality. More than 300 models of sewing machines are produced alone. About a hundred countries have active contracts for the supply of Janome sewing machines.
According to this indicator, one can judge the quality of manufactured products. Every day, thousands of machines leave the assembly lines of enterprises, and the stable demand for them confirms the amazing manufacturability and functionality of the devices. In addition to ready-made machines, enterprises also produce spare parts for Janome sewing machines, including even.
Like all Japanese equipment, sewing machines of this brand are very reliable and of high quality in terms of manufacturing. However, breakdowns happen with them. The main reasons for them are negligence in the performance of work and lack of proper care.
Even the best equipment can be rendered unusable if it is not provided with proper operating conditions. Below we will look at typical breakdowns in which it becomes necessary to repair Janome sewing machines.
2 Caring for your Janome sewing machine
Any technique needs maintenance. This fully applies to sewing machines. With constant work, regular preventive maintenance is also required.
If you begin to notice that the machine starts to malfunction, make noise, skip stitches, sew unevenly or give out some other surprises, then this indicates the need for cleaning and subsequent lubrication. It is also possible that the device requires adjustment.
It is often necessary to adjust the degree of thread tension. In machines of this class (like), such an operation can be performed without difficulty.
If work is not expected in the near future, then the machine can be removed for storage. Before this, the Janome sewing machine must be cleaned of dust and lubricated.
Any preventive cleaning and lubrication is accompanied by the removal of the shuttle. After that, with the help of a special brush, all rubbing surfaces are cleaned of lint and fabric residues. Oil is poured into the technological holes. Moving parts are also lubricated.
The places to be lubricated are indicated in the instructions for a particular model. It is advisable to lubricate no more than once a month, since excessive lubrication can contribute to the opposite effect. Any remaining grease must be wiped off with a dry cloth.
After that, the shuttle is installed in place, and the final assembly of the machine. If such work is beyond your power, and in your locality there is a service center for Janome sewing machines or just repairing sewing machines, then you can apply for a service there. Otherwise, such preventive measures will have to be carried out independently.
The sewing machine can only be stored in heated rooms with normal humidity. It is unacceptable to leave it in the basement, garage and other rooms in the absence of heating.
And do not forget, if you are for a sewing machine, then you also need to diagnose it for malfunctions regularly.
