Finishing the bath: the choice of material and the principle of operation. Interior decoration of the bath: how to create a zone of comfort and coziness Facing the bath inside

The article will be useful to those who plan to independently perform the interior decoration of bath rooms. Detailed step-by-step instructions with photos will help to produce sheathing and cladding with high quality and in compliance with building technologies.

In a classic Russian bath, there are always such rooms as:

• steam room;
• washing;
• vestibule (dressing room).

If the area allows, in modern buildings they will equip a separate relaxation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, a veranda, a barbecue area and even a full-fledged kitchen.

Despite fashion trends, the basic requirements for a bath remain unchanged:

• in the steam room, persistent hot steam is needed,
• in the washing room - non-slip floors and the possibility of convenient bath procedures,
• in general, the premises have a comfortable microclimate and an aesthetically pleasing environment.

The functionality of bath rooms largely depends on the correct finish. Even if your structure is built of round logs, and the walls look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing from the inside, it is recommended to finish the interior of the bath, as this will significantly extend its service life.

Each room has a number of features that must be considered when choosing materials and methods of cladding.

steam room

When finishing the steam room, the following nuances must be taken into account:

• sudden temperature changes, the upper limit of which can reach 120˚С;
• the presence of hot steam emitted by a powerful and concentrated stream;
• high humidity.

A universal version of the lining for the steam room is a sheathing board, which should have the following properties:

• do not absorb moisture;
• have a low heat capacity, therefore, do not heat up from high temperatures and contribute to the rapid heating of the steam room;
• have a pleasant color and smell, while not emitting resin when heated;
• protect walls from rot and mold, help purify the air.

From the whole variety of lining, panels made of linden, aspen, cedar or African abachi tree are suitable for use in a steam room. When choosing a sheathing material, pay attention to the quality of the wood - well-dried and hewn, without knots and notches on the surface, it will reliably serve for many years.

Facing in the steam room is not treated with varnish, paint or antiseptic. These substances are toxic and, when heated, can negate all the benefits of bath procedures.

Before sheathing The cheapest material for these purposes is mineral wool, which is most often used for finishing. Often, such a heater as basalt wool is used. It is more durable, as it is not subject to damage from the influence of high temperatures. However, cork agglomerate is considered the best insulation for baths. It is anti-allergenic, not subject to rotting, burning and the appearance of fungus.

The floor in the steam room is made warm, not slippery and pleasant for walking with bare feet.

Prices for lining

Video - Internal department of the steam room

washing room

In the washing department, they usually not only rinse the body, but here you can relax after a hot steam room, get a relaxing massage, apply face, body or hair care products. The convenience of the premises for carrying out various procedures must be taken care of already at the stage of construction and subsequent finishing.

Facing the washing is done either with ceramic tiles or with wood. Moreover, if deciduous varieties of lining were used in the steam room, then coniferous species - larch, spruce or pine - are preferred in the washing room. The resin contained in them has water-repellent properties and protects materials from decay.

Particular attention is paid to the floor, it should not be slippery or cold. It is preferable to pour the base in the washing room with concrete, on which tiles are laid out. Although a wooden version of the floor is also possible.

To prevent sliding on a wet surface, it is recommended to make flooring in the form of removable wooden logs on the tile. They should be dried after the completion of bath procedures.

Wooden flooring on a tiled floor - photo

Vestibule, locker room, lounge

Along with the washing and steam room, high humidity is maintained in the rest of the bath rooms. Here you can use both deciduous and coniferous wood for decoration. The following materials are also used:

A combination of various types of finishes is common in such rooms, for example, wooden lining, tiles and natural stone.

Prices for porcelain tiles

porcelain tiles

Video - Shower room and rest room in a thermoalder bath

Bathroom ceiling decoration

During operation, the ceiling is exposed to the aggressive effects of hot steam and high humidity. It is important to protect the floors with vapor and thermal insulation to prevent damage to materials. For these purposes, aluminum foil or building membrane is often used. They are equally effective at ensuring their tightness.

For vapor barrier, do not use foil with glued cotton wool. It is much thinner and less convenient when carrying out plating work. Also, do not use foil with glued polypropylene foam. It is toxic when heated, so it is unacceptable for use in bath rooms.

It is important to carefully glue all the joints with aluminum tape. If in the process of attaching the material you inadvertently damaged it, immediately seal this place, then you can forget to do this and the vapor barrier will be broken.

In the steam room, it is necessary to lay out a hole for the pipe. It is equipped with a box made of thin sheet stainless steel, which is filled with expanded clay.

The ceiling above the stove is additionally insulated with a steel sheet, which protects the wood from excessive heating.

Step-by-step instructions for installing lining on the ceiling

Step 1. Laths with a cross section of 2 * 4 cm are sewn onto the ceiling with a lathing pitch of 40-45 cm. In the places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps of at least 10 mm.

Step 2. Rails are placed on the walls horizontally, the direction is perpendicular to the lining.

Step 3 From one of the walls, wooden panels begin to be fixed. The groove of the first bar is directed outward and the spike of the next one is hammered into it. It is possible and vice versa, there is no fundamental difference.

On a note! When installing, use pads and a mallet, this will avoid damage to the material.

Step 4 You can fix the strips with special clamps; they are attached to the rail with nails or screws. But the easiest and most convenient way is to use a construction stapler. It securely fixes the lining and significantly reduces the time for installation.

Step 5 On the sides, gaps are left from the walls in the amount of 2-2.5 cm. This provides additional ventilation and prevents deformation of the finishing material. The gaps are subsequently hidden by the plinth.

The first and final panels are nailed with carnations with a small hat. They are hammered at an angle, the head is completely driven into the wood with the help of a finisher.

It is important to monitor the verticality of the slats, which is checked after installing each panel using a level. Instead, you can use a simple building meter. In this case, you measure the distance from the wall to the edge of the installed panels on one side and the other.

If there is a discrepancy in measurements, the lining is carefully knocked out to the desired level. For this, a small piece of the same panel is used, which is inserted into the groove and a mallet (or hammer).

The panels are also trimmed in the following way: a wooden lining is fixed, under which a pointed chip is carefully hammered.

The walls in the steam room are finished with wood. In other rooms, you can use tiles or stone.

Clapboard wall decoration

The basic technique for installing wood panels on walls is no different from attaching them to the ceiling.

Step 1. Along the entire perimeter we horizontally stuff a thick beam - every 80-100 cm.

Step 2 We lay mineral wool insulation. We cut the insulation to the desired size with a sharp knife. We lay between the bars, without tamping.

Step 3 We lay the vapor barrier, carefully glue all the joints with aluminum tape.

Note! Carefully monitor the quality insulation in the corners.

Step 4 To ensure the ventilation gap, we fill the distance rail. Sheathing is always done at an angle of 90 degrees to the slats of the lining. Thus, if you plan to arrange the panels vertically, the crate is nailed horizontally.

First, frame vertical slats are installed at the corners of the wall, the accuracy of their fastening is controlled by a plumb line. For even placement of horizontal rails, you can pull the cords at the top and bottom of the frame rails, that is, near the floor and above the ceiling.

The next rail is stuffed after 40-50 cm, and then along the perimeter, with the same pitch, the rest of the strips are attached. Regularly check the evenness of the installation with a level or plumb line.

Step 5 Doors and windows are surrounded by separate bars.

Step 6. Let's start attaching the panels.

When cladding walls in bath rooms, it is recommended to fasten the lining vertically, starting from one of the corners. This will ensure that moisture quickly drains to the floor, without retaining it in the grooves of the panels.

If you decide to do a horizontal finish, then lay the boards with the spike up so that moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. With this option, the fastening of the boards begins from the ceiling, and not from the floor. The crate is nailed vertically.

Wooden panels are fastened with clamps, ordinary nails, or a construction stapler. When using nails or self-tapping screws, they should be inserted at an angle of 45 degrees, with the cap completely sunk into the tree.

Be sure to leave gaps when fastening the lining from the ceiling and floor by 2-3 cm for ventilation.

Often the lining has to be cut. For these purposes, use a saw with fine teeth or an electric jigsaw.

Before attaching the last rail, it is cut to the desired size and attached to the crate. On the first panel of the next wall, the comb is cut off and installed close to the last rail of the first wall. Particular precision requires angular trimming. The main thing here is to determine the required angle and draw a cut line before sawing. Adjacent corners of the panels must fit butt-to-butt, without gaps.

vapor barrier prices

vapor barrier

Video - Finishing the bath with clapboard

Insulation of the furnace from the wall

Special attention must be paid to the insulation of the furnace from the wall. For these purposes, you can use one of the following options:

• stainless steel - attached directly to the wall behind the stove;
• minerite - heat-resistant boards made in Finland, consisting of cement, mineral fillers and reinforcing fiber. 2 sheets are attached if the stove is located in close proximity to the wall. When the furnace is more than 40 cm away, it is enough to use one sheet of mineralite.;
• heat-resistant tiles made of kaolin clay, for example, from the Russian company Terracotta;
• profile iron - the most budget option for insulation;
• red solid brick - laid out between the wall and the furnace to the base of the pipe. If desired, you can isolate the entire space up to the ceiling.

Minerite prices

Wall tiling

Often the walls in the washing department or in the rest rooms are finished with moisture-resistant ceramic tiles. It is made from environmentally friendly, non-toxic materials that are safe for health when heated, do not absorb moisture and give a beautiful and modern look to the room.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on the walls in the bath include a preparatory stage and cladding.

1) Preparation

If the walls are brick or cinder block, then they are cleaned of dirt and dust, rough plaster is performed, and irregularities are leveled with mortar.

Wooden walls are covered with waterproofing material - roofing material or roofing felt. It is nailed with a construction stapler, a fine chain-link mesh is sewn on top. The preparatory work is completed by applying a cement mortar that completely covers the metal mesh.

At the floor level, a perfectly even wooden beam is nailed, from which the fine finish will begin. You can use a metal UD profile, which is leveled along the wall.

To control the vertical rows, use a conventional plumb line or laser level.

2) Laying tiles

To fix the tiles, you can use either a self-prepared solution of cement and sand (in a ratio of 1/5), or ready-made glue. It is more convenient to use industrial glue designed for baths, it withstands large temperature fluctuations and high humidity well.

Before starting work, the tile is immersed in a container of water and left until all the air comes out of it. This will provide better adhesion to the solution.

Begin facing from the bottom, from the attached level.

It is important to lay out the first row perfectly evenly, since the quality of all subsequent cladding will depend on it.

Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied to the back of the tile or directly to the wall. The tile is pressed against the wall, while the glue should slightly protrude beyond its edges. To make the square stand perfectly straight, set it with a rubber mallet.

Watch the gap between the rows of tiles, it should be the same along the entire length and height. To do this, when adjacent rows are laid out, plastic crosses are installed in the corners of the tiles in the gap.

After 2 days, the glue will dry completely and you can remove the level.

The gaps between the rows are filled with grout, which matches the color of the lining. It dries in 11-12 hours.

The final stage is the cleaning of the walls from the remnants of grout and other contaminants. The tile is thoroughly washed and wiped dry.

The tile creates a great scope for creative self-expression. It can be laid out in even rows, offset or diagonally. For beginners, the easiest and fastest option is recommended, when the squares are located exactly one above the other.

The run-up pattern looks like this:

Laying tiles in a run

Diagonal lining.

To create complex combinations of tiles of various colors, it is recommended that you first lay out the pattern on the floor, then outline the pattern on the wall, and only then proceed with the decoration.

Prices for heat-resistant tile adhesive

heat resistant tile adhesive

Video - The principle of laying tiles

Wall cladding with terracotta tiles

Heat-resistant terracotta tiles are a popular solution in bath rooms. It is moisture resistant and durable, withstands high temperatures and allows you to create an original and beautiful wall decoration.

The technology of its laying is somewhat different from the lining of ordinary thin ceramic tiles. Terracotta is a heavier material and requires a special adhesive or mastic.

Below is a step-by-step instruction for facing with terracotta flagstone.

1. We apply mastic on the flagstone with a thick thick layer. More adhesive is required than when laying lighter tiles.
2. We press against the wall and align.

   

3. We install the remaining plates.
4. For even joints, we lay pieces of drywall between the plates.

   

5. When laying parallel rows, do not forget to check the horizon with a level.
6. After 10 hours, the joints can be filled. To do this, we use a special wide-joint heat-resistant grout. We dilute it with water and beat with a construction mixer until a homogeneous consistency. Properly cooked mass resembles thick sour cream.
7. We release the structure from drywall squares.
8. We fill the grout with a construction gun. We cut the nose of the gun at an angle of 60 degrees, the hole should be 8-10 mm.
9. We fill the gaps between the plates with grout. The extruded mass should not go beyond the level of the cladding, and also fall on the front side of the slabs.

   

   Be careful when handling the pistol. If the mastic still gets on the decorative surface, do not try to wipe it off immediately. Wait 2 hours, then scrape off the dried composition without rubbing it.

10. The grout is distributed along the seam in any direction convenient for you. You can first walk along the horizontal joints, then along the vertical ones, or vice versa.
11. After 2 hours, we proceed to decorative stitching. This will give a finished, finished look to the cladding.

    

12. For jointing, you can use a simple screwdriver with a working surface width of 7-8 mm or a rigid wire ring.
13. At the end, put on clean gloves and run along all the seams with your index finger.

    

Bathroom floor finishing

If the floor is made of wood, then it does not require any additional finishing.

Start facing from the corner. Unlike wall decoration, they do not create an ideal horizon on the floor, i.e. the tile is located at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

Before applying the mortar, mark the location of the squares on the floor using a level.

1. Cement mortar is poured onto concrete.
2. Level with a spatula.
3. The surface is covered according to the size of the tile, in this case two rows are laid out simultaneously.
4. The notched side of the spatula on the mortar creates a pattern for better adhesion of the cladding surface.
5. Lay out rows of tiles. Using a rubber mallet and level, set the desired slope and align. Please note that for the first row, the tiles do not need to be immersed in water first. The rest of the base is covered with a soaked lining.

   

   Photo - laying tiles on the floor

   

6. In the corners, the tiles are cut to the required dimensions. To do this, marks are made on the tile, along which they are carried out with a tile cutter.
7. Identical plastic crosses are inserted into the gaps.

   

8. After a couple of days, the seams can be filled with grout.

   

It takes a lot of time and effort to finish the bath yourself. It is necessary to solve a number of important tasks - what material to choose, how to attach it correctly, how to ensure safety during operation and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere in the premises. The recommendations and step-by-step instructions given in the article will help you cope with the task and, after completing all the work, enjoy a good and complete rest during the bath procedures.

Tiles on the floor - photo

Video - How to lay tiles on a wooden floor in a bath

Wood is a material that has long been used for facing baths and saunas. It is there that the tree reveals its properties in the best way - the ability to create a microclimate and perfectly retain heat.

In truth, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in humid and hot environments. Accordingly, it is better to sheathe the bath from the inside with a wooden clapboard. Below is the technology for the phased lining of the bath with clapboard inside.

Finishing the lining of a bath or sauna has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account even at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing lining for facing the bath, you need to consider:

• high temperature;
• temperature fluctuations (differences);
• humidity level;
• budget.

What lining to choose for a bath

Selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of lumber:

1. Board type

For finishing with a pair of wooden clapboard, it is better to give preference to eurolining.

• Firstly, because it has a large groove-tooth system (the length of the ridge reaches 8 mm).

• Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on the back of the lamella, which contributes to the ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamella.

• Thirdly, because the lining is already pre-treated with wood protection products that can be used in the bath.

2. Variety of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) grade of wood is suitable in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even live knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Type of wood

To understand which lining for a bath is better, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all the breeds available on the market, but will focus on those recommended by professionals.

Finishing clapboard baths can be made of hardwood and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bath or sauna is hardwood lining. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna, and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Lining linden for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are the ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, an undoubted argument in favor of lime lining will be the strength of the rock, resistance to drying out, as well as the beautiful color and structure of the wood. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, aspen lining becomes only stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care for lining in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it starts to darken. And popular belief says that aspen draws negative energy from a person.

Lining from an alder for a bath

In third place was an alder lining. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. The wood of this breed is hygroscopic, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. However, the high cost hinders its ubiquitous distribution.

Note. Lining made of linden, aspen, alder is usually sold in short pieces. Commercial length up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the finishing of the bath and making the calculation of the material.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult to process material is oak lining for a bath. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in a sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

A similar situation is with ash clapboard - a very expensive and rare lumber for bath sheathing.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs to be protected.

Conifers are rarely used in the steam room. Because the resin that the lining of coniferous species (pine, spruce) emits makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and dressing rooms. This is facilitated by indicators such as resistance to moisture and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not need additional processing (with the exception of deresining). Often a pleasant coniferous aroma also becomes an argument in favor of lining from needles.

Do-it-yourself sheathing of a bath with clapboard inside

Ways of fastening lining

The first step is to choose a method of fastening the lining. There is no unequivocal answer on how to properly fix the lining in the bath, horizontally or vertically (along or across). Each master defends his point of view. But summarizing their statements and user reviews, we can draw conclusions regarding the ways of laying the lining.

Laying lining along has become more widespread due to the relative simplicity, convenience and high speed of work, and due to this, the lower cost of installation. Moisture (condensate) easily flows down the vertically arranged lamellas. But, by the way, it also easily rises up the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

The vertical fastening of the lining allows more heat to be accumulated inside the steam room, again, because the horizontal fastening of the crate timber interferes with the free movement of air. Experts note that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam regime.

Laying the lining across has advantages in view of the fact that the board is fastened with a spike up, which means that water ingress is also unlikely, as with vertical. With a horizontal fastening of the lining, a vertical frame (crate) is equipped, which contributes to the natural circulation of air between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor of the horizontal laying of the lining in the bath (steam room) is the ease of replacing the boards below. The fact is that the floor in the bath is not just a wet place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to more rapid decay than the upper ones. Replacing several bottom boards is easier than cutting off the bottom of all vertical ones. In addition, shrinkage from constant temperature changes is more noticeable on a vertical mount. The horizontal method of fastening the lining is better for those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the foregoing, everyone can decide for himself how to fix the lining in the bath - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard provides for the device of the crate. This is due to the fact that the presence of the crate makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensate drains, the likelihood of rotting of the lining, the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The crate for the lining for the bath is made only from a bar, which is covered with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

The crate in the bath makes it possible to organize the wiring in the steam room. For example, under the lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are laid in a metal corrugation.

The internal insulation of the bath consists of several layers. Insulation in such a wet room needs special fastening.

To begin with, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or fixed with battens.

Cotton wool is placed between the bars of the crate. By the way, cut with an overlap of 10 mm. cotton wool will tightly settle between the frame beam and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is laid on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler to the beams of the crate.

The film is overlapped and must be glued with aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats are stuffed, the so-called counter-rail. Boards up to 20 mm thick are used for the countertop. The purpose of the countertop is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

An important condition for full functioning is ventilation in the bath.

Therefore, when installing the crate and laying the insulation, do not forget to mark a place for ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use an aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bath, you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the second at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Ventilation openings should be placed in accessible places in order to be able to regulate the flow of air.

Only non-combustible heat-insulating material is used in the sauna. That is why the use of foam is excluded. It is better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in the steam room

Fastening the lining in the bath is done exclusively by a hidden method. Experts attribute this to three factors:

• Firstly, the hardware, twisted through, heats up and there is a risk of getting unpleasant sensations while touching the attachment point.

• Secondly, rough hardware can rust and ruin the lining surface.

• Thirdly, such a mount looks somewhat primitive and affects the appearance of the room.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. Regarding self-tapping screws, it should be noted additionally that the self-tapping screw can be twisted from the front side of the board, however, it must be closed with a wooden plug.

This method is quite laborious, so users are advised to fix the wooden lining with their own hands using nails and kleimers.

How to sheathe the ceiling in the bath clapboard

Finishing the steam room, as well as other rooms of the bath, starts from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall lamellas must rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the side of the entrance and is carried out only on nails or kleimer. And the point here is not even in the visual effect, but in the fact that the finishing nail is not able to withstand the weight of the ceiling from the lining.

The boards that are nailed last are difficult to “plant” on the kleimer or drive a nail into the groove. In this case, he uses a finishing (hidden) nail that does not have a hat. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished with a finisher. And the installation site of the nail is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, a splinter.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the wall of the bath. This is due to the fact that under the ceiling there is a higher temperature and the lamellas “play” more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation through the wall.

How to sheathe the walls in the bath clapboard

Wall decoration with clapboard starts from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented similarly to the installation of clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be noted that water can rise through the wood to a height of up to half a meter with a vertical mount and half as low with a horizontal mount. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

It is impossible to join the lamellas of the wooden lining to the stop, as is done in the house, in the sauna. The tree swells and shrinks from humidity and temperature, so there must be a compensation gap for the “movement” of the wood. The consequences of improper fastening (deformation, discrepancy) are shown in the photo.

How to make a gap between the lining?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board moves relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Mounting the lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you withstand the docking of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards adjoin the ceiling closely.

Fixing skirting boards for wall paneling and decorative elements

Plinth, corners, other accessories for finishing the sauna can not be "planted" on the glue. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by grinding of the installation site.

How to sheathe a doorway with clapboard

Doorways are given special attention. The slopes in them are finished with the help of lining, cut to the desired length. And the openings themselves are framed with platbands.

How to sheathe clapboard slopes on windows

Directly in paired windows they are rarely equipped, more often they are made in a dressing room or washing room. In any case, it will not be superfluous to know how to make slopes from lining.

In order to simplify the installation of the lining, professionals advise installing a slope in the window opening using the starting bar for the plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the bar with one end, and the second is attached to the crate beam. This framing method is ideal in its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install metal-plastic windows in the bath. But, it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, lining it with clapboard and then decorating the place where the clapboard adjoins the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing the slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in the bath.

If the thickness of the wall is small and the slope is not wide, then you can veneer it with a wooden lining for lining.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Finishing washing in the bath clapboard

Installation of lining in a washing room is carried out similarly to installation in a steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards during vertical laying should be at least 30 mm apart. from the floor.

Users note that plastic panels and PVC lining have proven themselves well in the interior of the washing room. Wood decor allows you to create the desired design and at the same time ensure long-term operation of the finish. Ceramic tiles and tiles also look great in the sink.

How to sheathe the dressing room of the bath with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your things in it and take a break after soaring. In more modern versions of the bath, the dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and appliances are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, the installation of the lining does not differ in features.

Due to flammability, lining near the furnace firebox is not mounted. It is better to finish the furnace place with brick, stone, in extreme cases, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

It is worth noting that on the ceiling it is also not allowed to connect the chimney pipe to the lining. Therefore, a stainless steel screen is installed on the ceiling. Behind the screen, the pipe should be wrapped with basalt wool.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the heater (the place where stones traditional for the Russian bath are stacked) is not only possible, but necessary to finish the lining. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, the wood finish of the heater will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in separate rooms of the bath, you know how to fix the lining in the bath correctly. So, there are no obstacles to finishing the bath with a wooden clapboard with your own hands.

Russian bath is an excellent way to get rid of all everyday problems and relax your body and soul. But how complete the bathing process will be, first of all, depends on the interior decoration of the bath, that is, how comfortable it is and meets all the wishes of the owner. Further, in the material with a photo, we will talk about how to make a bath inside, and what materials can be used for this.

First of all, it is worth saying that the process of interior decoration includes its complete arrangement, starting with the installation of vapor barrier and ending with the assembly and installation of furniture and decorative elements. If you have construction skills, you can do all the finishing work of the bath yourself, otherwise, it is better to use the services of professionals.

Decoration Materials

Any internal work in the bath begins with the selection of suitable materials. Finishing the bath with wood is one of the most common options, especially for the steam room. However, there are a number of restrictions for this room, so not every material can be used in it.

This is due to the operating conditions of the steam room - an increased level of humidity and high temperature indicators. In such a microclimate, a number of materials begin to release toxic substances that are harmful to health.

For finishing the steam room, you can not use the following types of materials:

1. Pine board, which, with increasing temperature, begins to release resins that can be dangerous to humans.
2. Chipboard or chipboard. In addition to the fact that such materials begin to swell at high humidity, they also begin to release toxins that are part of the adhesive mixtures for their production.
3. Linoleum is also prone to release toxins, and is also prone to decay and deterioration.

But the decoration of the bath inside in the dressing room and the rest room may well be made of such materials. The dressing room trimmed with pine boards will be especially comfortable. They will give the air in the room a light coniferous aroma and a real Russian flavor.

Optimally for wall decoration in the bath, it is in the steam room that larch and linden are suitable. Preferably, of course, larch, which is resistant to high temperatures and humidity, and is very durable. However, in the absence of such, linden wood can also be used.

It is better to use a tree for lining a bath with your own hands in the form of a lining. These lightweight panels can be attached conveniently, are breathable and can be easily replaced if damaged. And since a heater will be located under the lining layer, it can be considered an almost ideal material for finishing the steam room.

Bath decoration technology

Whatever materials the construction of the bath is made of, the finishing is carried out using approximately the same technology. Although it is still worth familiarizing yourself with the nuances of the process before starting work.

You need to move in the process of work from the bottom up, that is, from the floor to the ceiling.

So, the interior lining of the bath is carried out in several stages:

1. The first step is the flooring in the steam room from larch boards. It is not recommended to use oak in this case, as it is rather slippery. The floor level in the steam room must be raised by 10 cm in order to better retain heat.
2. The lower shelf should be 10-15 cm higher than the level of the stove.
3. Further along the walls, a crate is made, along which the lining is attached.
4. Upon completion of the manipulations with the walls, you can take on the decoration of the ceiling.
5. After the finishing of the wooden bath is completed, you can proceed with the installation of equipment and furniture. Ready-made items can be purchased at specialized stores.

Advantages of lime lining

It is worth noting that lining made of linden wood is not cheap at all, however, it is best suited for finishing the bath inside.

The advantages of the material are:

• long service life;
• attractive appearance;
• the ability to "breathe", that is, to pass air;
• resistance to high temperatures and constant humidity;
• pleasant subtle fragrance.

Working with wooden lining

Before you finish the bath inside with your own hands, you need to work out the surface of the walls, that is, make them absolutely even, otherwise, the lining will lie in waves.

The wood must get used to the conditions inside the steam room, so before you properly make a bath inside, the lining must be left indoors for a couple of days.

Next, proceed to the installation of the crate under the lining. To do this, the slats are nailed to the walls with a gap of 70 cm between them. First install the slats around the edges. All other elements are attached using a level and a plumb line. To fix the tree, you will need zinc-plated or stainless steel screws, since everything else will rust quickly.

If you are sure that the walls are perfectly even, you can nail the lining directly to them, without crates. And if there are still doubts, it is better to use a proven technique.

A lining can be nailed onto a prepared crate, which even an inexperienced person can do. Fasteners for lining must be with anti-corrosion coating, resistant to high temperatures. Using lining, almost anyone can complete the interior decoration of the bath.

Why you need a vapor barrier

The peculiarity of the Russian bath is that it is always very humid in it, so for its decoration it is better to dwell on materials that are able to pass air, that is, to be ventilated. So you should figure out in which cases you need to install a vapor barrier layer.

The need for vapor barrier is directly related to what types of bath finishes were used. So, if inside the bath is sheathed with wood, then a vapor barrier is not needed, since the wood "breathes".

But if the bath is brick, then vapor barrier will be required if special ventilation holes are not provided. In any case, it is better to consult with experts on this issue.

Finishing the bath with ceramic tiles

The main advantage of the tile is its functionality and low cost. It is optimally suited for flooring in a dressing room or rest room. It is very durable, not affected by moisture and temperatures, does not collapse, and is easy to maintain. In addition, tiles allow you to create an original interior.

Tiles can be divided into two categories:

Ceramic bath tiles should be glazed, as they are better able to withstand fluctuations in temperature and humidity, unlike unglazed ones.

It is worth remembering that it is better to tile the floor in the bath with tiles with a rough textured surface, which will prevent slipping and avoid injury.

This rule also applies to wall cladding, as condensation accumulates on them. Be careful not to slip or fall.

Another point regarding the choice of tiles for the bath concerns its base. It is advisable to purchase a material with a smooth base that will fit snugly to the floor and will not cause mold to spread.

The shape of ceramic tiles for a bath can be square, rectangular, and complex geometric shapes. However, in the absence of much experience, it is better to stop at a rectangular tile, which is the easiest to lay.

Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to determine the exact amount needed for cladding. And you need to purchase 5-10% more material in case of scrap, trimming or damage.

The sequence of laying ceramic tiles is as follows:

1. The tile is soaked in water for several minutes, so that the glue sets better with its base. This minimizes the consumption of adhesive during installation.
2. Having determined the most noticeable corner in the room from the entrance, the tiles begin to be laid from there.
3. Glue is applied to each tile using a notched trowel. Having applied it to the floor, the edges of the tile are tapped with a mallet so that the glue is evenly distributed and excess air comes out.
4. Crosses will help to ensure uniform seams between the tiles.
5. As the glue dries, the crosses are removed. And when everything is completely dry and the tiles have set, the joints can be filled with the grout of your choice.

It is noteworthy that ceramic tiles look equally good on the floor and on the walls. The mosaic looks especially advantageous and original. If the tiles need to be cut when laying, then special tools will help to cope with this task.

The final stage of finishing the bath inside will be the selection of furniture suitable for the interior.

Interior decoration of the bath: wall cladding inside with wood, how to decorate a wooden bath with your own hands, how to do it right, construction, types of finishing work, photos and videos

Interior decoration of the bath: wall cladding inside with wood, how to decorate a wooden bath with your own hands, how to do it right, construction, types of finishing work, photos and videos

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath (photo)

The bath is a place not only for physical purification, but also for the restoration of spiritual harmony, it helps to heal the soul and body. For a comfortable and pleasant bathing, high-quality interior decoration of the bath is very important. Photo or video materials are not always good when studying repair work, where information accumulated over the centuries is more important. Therefore, having decided to build a bathhouse or restore an existing room with your own hands, you should very carefully study the rules and methods for decorating its interior. Everyone makes the choice of a suitable design, based on their own taste.

However, there are general rules for all in choosing an interior, which should be followed for the harmonious functioning of the entire complex. By properly designing the bathhouse, you can minimize heat loss, increase the durability of the structure, and protect visitors from accidental burns. Also, the interior lining of the room contributes to the release of aroma particles at high temperatures, which heal the human body. If desired, you can significantly reduce the cost of repairs, for which the interior decoration in the bath is done by hand.

Adhering to the correct technology for carrying out this process, there is no doubt about the durability, quality, and most importantly, the positive effect of the whole complex on health.

Finishing materials

When viewing articles where various design options are presented, the wooden interior of the bath immediately catches your eye. Photos presented in various sources offer many interesting ideas for a bath complex, the lining of which is made of wood. This material is the most environmentally friendly and has a positive effect on human well-being. In addition, its main characteristics include high thermal and moisture resistance.

A log house made of wood is the most common type of building for a steam room. The interior of the bath should also be wooden. From a log, the most environmentally friendly bath complex is obtained, which has good ventilation and, as a result, a good hygienic environment.

But not every type of wood is suitable for these purposes. Cedar, linden, hornbeam, oak and ash have long been considered the most suitable. Linden and pine are the most widely used, since when heated, they most actively release specific substances and have a healing effect on the human body.

Particularly sophisticated lovers will like the interior decoration of the bath, combined-type saunas, which combine several types of wood.

The main criterion when choosing a sheathing is the quality of the material, which must be perfectly hewn. The wood inside the bath is never painted or varnished, because when the temperature is high, the effect of harmful chemicals increases dramatically and can seriously harm health. In the absence of a coating, wood releases essential oils much better.

Materials should be selected based on the knowledge of experienced professionals. Only in this case, a do-it-yourself bathhouse, the interior decoration of which is carried out in accordance with all the rules, will in no way be inferior to a complex designed by professionals.

Deciduous wood species should be preferred for ceiling decoration. When choosing needles for these purposes, one should expect the release of resinous substances that can leave a rather unpleasant burn on the skin.

The interior decoration of the bath requires a thoughtful approach when choosing materials for each room. Equipping the vestibule and washing, you can use various tiles. But as for the steam room, there is a whole science for its design.

Walls in the steam room

The highest temperatures are maintained in the steam room, therefore, the materials of the highest quality should be chosen here. Hardwoods are best suited, which have greater heat resistance, which will prevent burns from accidentally touching the walls. Also, these rocks dry out quickly, which helps maintain a healthy microclimate in the steam room.

The interior decoration of the bath allows the use of lining, which is fastened with flush nails. Boards are not covered with any additional decorative materials.

It is also necessary to provide a reliable vapor barrier, which can be folgoizol, glassine. Wall insulation can be mineral wool, foamed polypropylene with a foil coating. The sequence of these materials is as follows: insulation, then vapor barrier, followed by an air gap and finishing lining.

The floor in the steam room

The floor in the bath must be laid under a slope, along which water will drain into a place specially designated for it. Here you should mount the siphon for draining. This is a very important point in the arrangement of the steam room, because the moisture in it should not linger for a long time.

You should not use wood for the floor of the bath, as it will be its wettest place. For these purposes, ceramic tiles are more suitable, which will extend the life of the entire floor structure of the room and will be much more convenient to maintain. You can also use a wooden coating, but its durability is much inferior to ceramic tiles. The floor level of the steam room should be made higher than the level of the washing room (15 cm).

Benches in the bath

The aesthetic appearance of benches and shelves in the bath depends on the customer's imagination. Oak, poplar, aspen and linden are suitable for these interior items. The edges of benches and shelves should be rounded, and their surface should be smoothly sanded. They are most often placed under blank walls.

The distance of the top shelf to the ceiling is in the range from 1 to 1.2 m. The distance of the benches from the oven is at least half a meter.

Furnace finish

When planning the interior decoration of the bath, you need to take seriously the choice of the stove, because it is the soul of the whole complex. Each oven has its own character.

This part of the interior, if properly designed, will not only brighten up the overall appearance, but will also become the key to the fire safety of the bath.

There are several options for finishing the stove, which depend on the budget and imagination of the owner of the bath. So, you can finish this element of the bath complex with tiles, use a steel case or simply plaster the stove.

Washroom finish

The most important parameter that the interior decoration of the bath in the washing room requires is the moisture resistance of wood. You can use needles. Its good resistance to damp conditions will extend the life of the room.

Doors and windows should be kept small to help prevent unnecessary heat loss. Windows should be made double, and doors should be made of durable wood.

bath interior technology

Technologically, the interior decoration of the bath is carried out in the following sequence:

• the material must be acclimatized in the bathhouse for at least 24 hours;
• preparation of the lining of the lining;
• installation of hydro and thermal insulation;
• installation of wood panels;
• selection and installation of furniture.

All of the above steps require compliance with a certain accuracy and accuracy of work, otherwise all the shortcomings will eventually make themselves felt.

Rest room decoration

When designing a lounge, it is very important to choose the right interior design and avoid big expenses. A suitable option here would be pine, which is of high quality and has a large number of shades. When using this material, there are no problems with applying varnish. The resins contained in the pine structure perform a protective function.

Spruce is also well suited for these purposes. It is more difficult to process, but this material will add originality to the room.

Using oak for decoration of the rest room, there is no doubt about its strength and durability.

It is important to comply with all technical standards for interior design, which will ensure a long service life of the premises. A built bathhouse (with your own hands), the interior decoration of which meets all construction and sanitary and hygienic requirements, will last for many years, healing the people in it and pleasing the eye with its unique interior design.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath (photo)

The bath is a place not only for physical purification, but also for the restoration of spiritual harmony, it helps to heal the soul and body. For a comfortable and pleasant bathing, high-quality interior decoration of the bath is very important.

How to make the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands

The bath was used for ablution by our ancestors. This is a specially designated room where you can wash, relax and improve your health. The construction of a bathhouse requires knowledge and skills, so it is better to entrust such work to professional builders, but if you have a desire, you can build a bathhouse with your own hands.

For guidance, you can use a video that will teach you how to do the job correctly. It is important not only to build a structure, but also to produce it. interior decoration. To do this, you need to follow the recommendations and advice on construction, make an effort, show diligence and perseverance.

What materials to use for finishing the bath

Important in the construction of the bath is its interior decoration. Everyone can show imagination so that the room becomes cozy and comfortable for relaxing and swimming. Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath is very important. Competent finishing of the dressing room, shower room is an important stage in construction. It must be approached with all responsibility, so that later you do not have to redo your work. The choice of finishing materials plays an important role in construction.

Today there are a huge number of them on sale, and which one to choose is up to you. by the most the best material is wood. It is better not to use one type of wood for finishing the bath and steam room. When installing a dressing room and a steam room inside, it is advisable to use different types of wood. If you do not understand this, then it is better to watch the video, which can be found in large numbers on the Internet.

Pine for finishing the bath

The most affordable and inexpensive finishing material is pine. It is better to use it for interior decoration of the dressing room. It is not suitable for a steam room. In this room, the temperature is high, the level of humidity is increased. In pine wood in large quantities contains resin, which, under the influence of high temperatures, begin to ooze from the wood, emit a strong odor, so swimming in such an environment is highly undesirable.

Wood for bathroom decoration

Linden is well suited for the steam room. This wood is the best suited for a steam room. If you trim the bath with linden wood, then you can not be afraid of burns, harmful fumes. Linden lining thermally stable, it does not heat up much, retains its original color for a long time. In addition to linden, other wood is also used to decorate the premises, and this is an aspen lining, timber and boards made of birch, poplar. Do-it-yourself decoration of the bath inside should be done with lining from these types of wood. They have a solid structure, they are reliable and durable, do not change their color, durable, so they will serve their owners for more than one year. This wood outperforms pine in its qualities and can easily replace it.

Aspen, birch and poplar belong to hardwoods trees. They dry fairly quickly and are water repellent. Such qualities are especially important in the construction and decoration of the bath. Each type of tree has its own unique properties. Linden, for example, charges a person, invigorates him, removes negative emotions, gives him a good mood. Aspen wood has a healing effect, it can draw diseases out of a person, relieves negative energy.

So, you built a bathhouse with your own hands. In order to keep the heat in the room, you need insulate walls and ceiling, and then just start finishing work inside the bath. The most popular material for this is natural wood, which has undergone special processing. The interior decoration of the dressing room and the steam room can be done using one or more types of wood. A lining is made from it, with which the walls and ceiling of the bath are sheathed.

Lining for a bath

Wooden lining considered an ideal finishing material. It is used for interior decoration of the bath. It is used in the steam room, in the bathing department, in the dressing room. Lining made of wood is used for do-it-yourself bath decoration, it is used to decorate the ceiling and walls. It is made at woodworking factories from wood of different species. For this, high quality material is used, which is subjected to phased processing.

Modern technologies make it possible to produce finishing materials of various types and sizes. This diversity makes it possible decorate the interior of the bath. Lining made of wood is very economical, it is thin, processed boards with cut grooves. The boards are mounted using the groove-to-groove method. They fit tightly to each other, create one common structure. Properly laid lining prevents the penetration of dampness and moisture into the grooves. She stays dry. The finished wood lining is treated with a special protective compound, so it will not require replacement for a long time.

To extend the life of the finishing material for the bath, you can additionally treat it with an antiseptic. Before applying it, the wood must be sanded. To do this, use fine-grained sandpaper. Such processing will make the surface of the lining especially smooth, which will make it possible to better penetrate the protective composition into the wood. Before laying the lining, it should be treated with an antiseptic on both sides, then it should be dried. Finishing material, which will be used for the dressing room, washing compartment, must be coated with a protective solution twice. The lining, which will be used in the steam room, is enough to process 1 time.

How to make a crate

So, you have insulated the room, prepared the lining, processed and dried it, now let's proceed to bath interior design and do it by hand. At the beginning of work, you need to make a crate. It will serve as a frame on which you will attach the finishing material. Installation of the crate structure begins with the strengthening and location of the upper and lower bars. This design will be used for the vertical fastening of the panels.

If you decide place the wooden lining horizontally, then the wooden bars are mounted vertically, for this you need to step back a little from the corners of the building. To create an even structure, you should stretch the mounting cord between the main bars. With the help of a level, a plumb line and a mounting cord, we fix the intermediate structural elements.

How to decorate the walls in the bath with your own hands

So, you have assembled the crate, now you can proceed to the interior decoration. For this, only natural wood is used. Laying linoleum or other synthetic materials in the bath is prohibited. These materials of artificial origin. They cannot be used for interior decoration:

1. they are flammable;
2. when heated, they emit toxic fumes;
3. harmful to health.

For finishing the interior of the bath, steam room and washing department, natural wood is best suited. For this, the following types of trees are used:

These types of wood have a dense structure, they heat up rather slowly, so they are safe, you will never get burned. Wooden lining dries quickly, it is smooth and pleasant to the touch, when heated it emits a faint aroma. The wood used for the interior decoration of the bathhouse, steam room and washing room should not be covered with paint or varnish. With prolonged heating, the chemicals that make up the paint evaporate, they enter the air, poison the bathing person.

How to lay the lining with your own hands

During the interior decoration of the bath, the walls, shelves and ceiling in the room are covered with wooden clapboard. This stage of construction takes place after wall insulation. To do this, use mineral wool, which is covered with a sheet of aluminum foil on top. After mounting the crate and frame, it is impregnated with an antiseptic. The lining should also be processed, allowed to dry, and then mounted. Laying work should start from the corner.

For installation, a fastening tool is used, and these are nails, staples. Finishing the interior should start from the floor. It is mounted on wooden logs. To do this, take boards whose thickness is not less than 30 centimeters. It is desirable that they be made of hardwood. All logs, floorboards on top impregnated with antiseptic. This is very important, because inside the bath is constantly damp, fungi can start, mold can form, which will lead to rotting of the wood.

Floor finish

When equipping the dressing room, you can mount a wooden floor. This cannot be done in the steam room and washing department. It is constantly damp here, steam settles on the walls and floor in the room. Wooden floors in such a room will quickly rot. What material to use for the floors in the steam room? Ceramic floor tiles are the best for this.

Advantages of ceramic tiles:

The tile allows you to maintain a good sanitary condition in the room. It washes well, dries quickly, and prevents the growth of mold and fungi. For safe swimming, so as not to fall, it is better to use wooden shelving. They are made in the form of lattices, rise after bathing to dry. In general, a properly made bath will help improve your body. Here you can relax with friends, carry out cosmetic procedures, cleanse your body of accumulated toxins.

How to make the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands, the choice of material

How to independently finish the bath from the inside, what materials are better to use for this. What types of wood are best used for finishing the dressing room, steam room.

Do-it-yourself bath: interior decoration

Bath is an amazing place for relaxation and recuperation. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Each owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article, we bring to your attention a few tips on how to equip a bath with your own hands, the interior decoration of which is no less important than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bath yourself, then this article will come in handy for you. Here you will find professional instructions for different types of finishes, and step-by-step photos of important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve your tasks at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of building technology when cladding, sheathing, etc.

Finishing inside the bath is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bath, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bath and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

Features of the interior decoration of the bath

A modern Russian bath involves the presence of several rooms:

If you have built a large bath, then it is quite possible to equip an additional relaxation room, a billiard room, a kitchen area, a barbecue area, a swimming pool and much more. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bath, equipped with everything that you think is necessary and useful. However, this does not affect the basic defining requirements for the bath:

• all rooms should have an attractive and practical design;
• in the steam room there should be hot and pleasant steam;
• in the washing should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a big impact on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior decoration, it still needs to be done in the bath. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for a comfortable stay, as well as significantly extend the life of walls, floors, ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. How best to finish the steam room, washing, vestibule, read below.

When planning the finishing of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

• The constant presence of heated steam coming in a concentrated and dense stream;
• Temperature fluctuations, heating to high temperatures;
• High humidity level.

The conditions in the steam room are, one might say, extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern widest range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose the option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the sheathing board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

• Low heat capacity, the ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
• moisture resistance;
• High aesthetic characteristics;
• Pleasant smell, no tar when heated;
• Resistance to fungus and mold;
• Air purification.

Today, there are several classes of lining:

• C-class. Differs in low cost. But for finishing the bath, its characteristics are not high enough.
• B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which, for every 1.5 m of length, there are no more than four knots;
• A-class. May have shallow cracks. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m of length is allowed on each panel.
• Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding cost. The color is uniform, cores and knots are absent.

The most common profiles are eurolining, thorn-groove, Softline, Calm.

Linden lining shows excellent results as an interior finish for a bath. Its density is quite low, due to which it does not heat up very much in the steam room. However, it does not emit tar. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

And also lining from other types of wood is suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing one or another material for sheathing, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, well-treated, and free of nicks, knots, and other obvious defects. A high-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

Additional processing by special means does not require the material for sheathing the steam room. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before proceeding with lining the clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. It is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It successfully copes with the effects of high temperatures, so it will last a little longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then one cannot but recall the cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is designed not only to take a shower and wash yourself properly at a comfortable temperature. The washroom should have a place to relax, so you can leave the steam room for a while, pamper yourself with massages, face and body masks and other relaxing and enjoyable treatments. It is necessary to think over all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be carried out taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If for a steam room you can choose among hardwoods, then only conifers are suitable for a washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very easy to explain this choice. Softwood is resinous and highly water-repellent. Therefore, under washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood, and will last for many years, while maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of material for finishing floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are a comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is made of concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid out on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bath, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washroom can be completely wooden, but ceramic tile as the main finish is a more practical and durable option. She copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

Tambour and lounge

A high level of humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath. This is the most important aspect that must be considered when choosing finishing materials. For the vestibule and other rooms, you can use any type of wood. But don't limit yourself to wood. Other materials are also suitable for high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms:

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of the baths. For example, a combination of natural stone and wood looks very solid and beautiful. Do-it-yourself bath will allow you to translate non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, the photo of which is presented on this page, will help you choose the best materials and their combinations.

Bathroom ceiling decoration

The ceiling of the bath must withstand high temperature loads, as well as cope with the flow of hot wet steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam with the help of heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them hermetically, then their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform vapor barrier with foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material has a thinner thickness, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. This material, when exposed to high temperatures, releases substances toxic to humans, therefore it is unsuitable for use in bath rooms.

Each joint of the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is glued with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is pierced, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole must be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from the wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

• 2mm stainless steel sheet
• galvanized box;
• Clamp clamp.

Cutting the ceiling is carried out mainly in order to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling slabs. In addition, in this way, the elements of the chimney receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

The box 400x400 mm is installed from the side of the attic. A sheet of stainless steel 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, from the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is fitted with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and the steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the duct contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath in stages: ceiling lining

We bring to your attention an instruction that will help you complete the lining of the ceiling in the bath with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

• The ceiling is sheathed with slats 2x4 cm. They are fastened with a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
• Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
• Fastening panels begins with one of the walls. The first bar is exposed with the groove out. The spike of another panel is hammered into it. The order of connection of the spike and groove can be changed, it is not fundamental.

Note! When sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material gently and gently without damaging it.

• Fasten the planks using special clamps. Kleimers are attached to the rail with a screw or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time to complete the work is significantly reduced.
• There should be gaps between the sheathing and the wall, up to 2.5 cm in size. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps, it is enough to nail the ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with inconspicuous nails. It is necessary to hammer in such nails at an angle, and drive the hat tightly into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing should be carried out along strictly vertical lines. A level check is required after each panel installed. If there is no level at hand, then you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values ​​obtained as a result of the measurements diverge, then the lining must be knocked out so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the skin will turn out uneven and sloppy. Stuffing is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove with a mallet or hammer to fit the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness in another way. The wooden lining is fixed and sharp wood chips are hammered under it.

wall cladding

The only material suitable for wall cladding in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tile, etc. In the vestibule and the relaxation room, you can create original ensembles by combining different materials.

Clapboard wall cladding

According to the main parameters, wall cladding with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling decoration.

• The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step - 80-100 cm.
• In the recesses between the bars you need to put a heater. For example, mineral wool. It is cut with a sharp knife into appropriate pieces. It is not necessary to tamp the heater.

• With separate bars, you need to separate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe door and the window;
• Now you can go directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls, without lingering in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the panel spike should be directed upwards so that moisture does not collect or linger in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by fixing the boards to the ceiling. The crate in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with kleimers, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you are using self-tapping screws or nails, then insert them at an angle, driving the caps deep into the wood. Ventilation gaps of about 2 cm should remain between the ceiling and the sheathing, the floor and the sheathing.

A common problem that people face when doing self-cladding of the walls of the bath with clapboard is the need to cut the material. It's easy to do. You can cut the lining with a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is cut to the desired size and fixed to the crate. The next wall starts with a panel where the comb is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last rail of the previous wall. In the corners, the elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angle values ​​before sawing the batten or panel. Draw a line with a pencil on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no seams at the corners of the panels.

Isolate the stove from the wall

The most important moment when performing finishing work inside the bath is the insulation of the furnace. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

• Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
• Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. With a close location of the stove near the wall, the mineralite must be put in two layers. If at least 40 cm remains between the oven and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
• Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
• Solid red brick. They need to lay out the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
• Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath: we lay the tiles in stages

Ceramic tiles are the best option for finishing all bath rooms, except for the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the direct execution of work.

Preparatory stage

The preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists in removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. The preparation of wooden walls is to perform waterproofing. With a construction stapler, roofing felt, roofing felt is nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which a concrete solution is densely placed.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail an even beam. It will become the basis of a fine finish. Instead of a bar, a metal profile is also suitable. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal, use the building level. For vertical, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in the bath

You can prepare a tile fixing solution yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy a ready mix. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature fluctuations. Tiles must be immersed in water before laying to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will adhere much better to the mortar.

Start of work - from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially diligently, because it is he who determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the accuracy of the entire lining.

Glue is placed on the reverse side of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. Glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the adhesive protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tile with a rubber mallet.

It is important to maintain an equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you lay adjacent rows, fix special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will keep the same gap both in length and in height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After that, you can remove the level and wipe the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tile and giving it the final aesthetic appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles, you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. You can lay it evenly, diagonally, offset, patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or pattern, it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where which tile should be located. This will allow you to accurately complete the cladding and give your bath a truly original and unique look.

Terracotta stone cladding

An unusual and very stylish solution for a bath is terracotta tiles. They are ideal for this type of room, as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will work too.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• Mastic is densely distributed on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than conventional ceramic tiles;
• We apply the plate to the wall, press down and align;
• We continue to work in the same order with the rest of the plates;
• To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
• Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
• 10 hours after the installation is completed, you can start processing the seams. It is performed with a heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water to the density of sour cream.
• Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
• The grout is applied with a construction gun. The spout must be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
• The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not fall on the plates themselves or other surfaces.

Handling a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If the grout still gets on the tile, then do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It is better to wait a little while the grout dries. So, you can gently scrape it off.

• The direction of applying the grout can be any;
• Two hours later, you can move on to the stitching, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
• Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
• After that, you need to walk along the seams with a finger in a clean glove.

Floor finish

The wooden floor in the bath does not need additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying starts from one of the corners. In this case, the ideal evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bath is made with a slope towards the drain. But the approximate location of the tiles is still worth noting on the floor by level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
• The teeth of the spatula imprint a pattern on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection with the tile;
• Tiles are laid out. In the process of work, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about slope formation! Tiles for the first row must be dry. And it is desirable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
• Corner elements are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;
• Plastic crosses are inserted into the seams to maintain an equal distance between the tiles;
• After two days, the masonry will dry and it can be treated with grout.

Finishing the interior of the bath on your own involves a serious contribution of material and physical resources. But if you approach this matter as responsibly as possible, then the result that you get will exceed all your expectations!

Do-it-yourself bath: interior decoration in stages: photo and video

Do-it-yourself bath: interior decoration. Features of the interior decoration of the bath. Step-by-step laying of tiles in the bath. Bathroom ceiling decoration.

Building a bath is a complex, expensive and long-term process. Interior decoration requires a special approach. Most of this work can be done by hand. It is necessary to carefully choose finishing materials, the comfort of bath procedures depends on it. Here are tips on finishing, photos of the steam room, washing and other rooms of the bath inside.

The steam room is considered the most difficult and demanding for the selection of material. This is where the highest temperature and humidity will be. Given this, it is necessary to stop the choice of finishing materials only on natural raw materials.

Plastic is definitely excluded from the list of possible options. In a steam room, it can cause serious harm to health. Tiles for this room also cannot be used. When heated, it is capable of cracking; touching a very hot ceramic surface can cause serious burns.

Steam room finishing

The most widely used material for finishing the steam room is wood. It is preferable to use only hardwood lining. Since a board from coniferous tree species releases resin when heated. Contact with it is very dangerous with burns. For a steam room, it is better to choose one of the following types of wood:

• Linden;
• ash;
• Birch;
• alder;
• maple;
• aspen.

Advice. Although larch belongs to the coniferous tree species, it is great for cladding a steam room.

These tree species are somewhat different in properties, complexity of processing and appearance. Their cost, manufacturing technology of the finishing board and other parameters also vary. But they are united by a number of important characteristics for a bath, such as:

1. Resistant to hot steam and humidity.
2. Uniform, moderate heating without danger of burns.
3. Hygiene.
4. Practicality.
5. Durability.
6. Healing properties.
7. Hypoallergenic.
8. Durability.
9. Decorative.

Never use synthetic materials for the steam room

The quality of lining for the steam room should be the highest. It is desirable to select material without knots, defects and other natural flaws. The processing of the board is also very important. Since the operating conditions of the room are characterized by serious loads, the lining should not swell at high humidity and not dry out when the bath is not heated.

Do-it-yourself washing room decoration

Slightly less stringent requirements are imposed on the finishing of the washing room than on the arrangement of the steam room. But although there are no such high temperatures in this room, the humidity is always very high. Thus, finishing materials may not differ in the features of heating without burns, but moisture resistance is a mandatory criterion. Experienced bath attendants advise here to give preference to natural, environmentally friendly, breathable materials. Wood can boast of these properties, for example, good quality lining. But other materials are also often used, for example:

• stone;
• tile;
• plastic.

Tiles in the washroom

Plastic finishing materials must be approached with extreme caution. They should only be of the highest quality, preferably certified. Since in the conditions of a bath, heated plastic can exude far from the most pleasant smell, or even release toxins.

The choice of wood for finishing the washing is much wider than for the steam room. Here it is quite possible to apply conifers. The temperature in this room is no longer so high as to provoke the release of resin. Pine is one of the most accessible materials among analogues. It has many advantages. For example, such wood contains phytoncides, which are very beneficial for health. Coniferous smell has a healing effect on the nervous system, heart, lungs. But with intensive use of the bath, the pine lining may lose its decorative effect. Its pleasant color is able to darken.

The better to finish the rest room in the bath

When choosing the type of finish for a given room, you can pay more attention to the design side than the practical one. Although, of course, the material must meet a number of requirements:

• environmental friendliness;
• ease of cleaning;
• aesthetics;
• durability.

Rest room in the bath

The floors in this room must be very well fitted so that it is pleasant to walk on them barefoot. The Russian tradition involves the use of wood in the decoration of recreation areas. But this is not a prerequisite. You just need to remember that high humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath, even in the rest room. Along with wood, you can give preference to the following materials:

• porcelain stoneware;
• decorative plaster;
• natural stone;
• glass wall papers.

It is advisable to take care of powerful ventilation even at the stage of designing and building a bath. Healthy air circulation must also be ensured in the rest room. The very atmosphere of the room is designed in such a way that everything in it is conducive to relaxation and rest.

Advice. It is better not to use linoleum in the bath. Despite its practicality, this synthetic material is able to release harmful substances and quickly break down at high temperature and humidity.

Much attention should be paid not only to the decoration of the walls, but also to the ceiling. Be sure to use high-quality vapor barrier. The ceiling next to the stove is additionally insulated with a metal sheet.

When using wood as a finishing material, it is important to bring it into the room in advance. Preferably two days before the start of work. This simple technique will allow the lining not to swell so much in high humidity and not crack when dried. While the material is resting, you can proceed with the installation of the crate. Most often, it is arranged from a bar 50 x 50. But you can also use a metal profile. The standard batten spacing is 70 cm. It may vary depending on the finish used.

Installation of interior decoration in the bath

An important step is thermal insulation. For a bath, it is by no means impossible to neglect good insulation. A layer of waterproofing is also needed. The direction of lining can be both vertical and horizontal. The location of the crate should be perpendicular to the sheathing boards. It is recommended not to use ordinary nails for fastening. They can quickly rust and thereby ruin the appearance of the finish. It is better to purchase copper or brass studs.

Floors can be wooden, concrete, tiles are rarely laid. If any materials other than wood are used, gratings must be made to prevent burns and slips. If you decide to use tiles, it is better to choose a glazed bath type that has a rough surface.

Advice. It is better not to make the floor of the bath from oak boards. Although it is a very durable wood, it slips when wet. And under constant influence, steam can be somewhat bent.

Finishing the bath with your own hands will save a lot of money. And besides, you can be sure that everything is done with high quality, according to your own taste and all the little things are taken into account. Fastening the lining usually does not cause any particular difficulties and does not require special knowledge and skills. Such a board has locks and fits snugly to each other.

Interior decoration of the bath: video

The steam room is the most important room of the bath, because there is no bath without a steam room. Traditionally, for convenience, additional spaces are designed around this small room, which can be quite a lot: a sink, a shower room, a relaxation room, a pool, etc. Each bath room can have its own unique and attractive design.

When starting to finish the hottest and most humid room, you need to remember that the work will be not just an external decoration of the walls. The complex solves a huge set of tasks:

• walls are being prepared;
• thermal insulation is applied;
• thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
• external finishing is carried out;
• design developments are brought to life, which give the interior completeness and aesthetics.

Finishing the steam room is divided into several important stages and takes place sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correct execution of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. So the first two important steps are:

• the choice of a safe insulation that will be absolutely harmless with temperature changes;
• selection of the most suitable material for finishing, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

Baths are built from century to century, the ancestors used natural materials for their insulation: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, affordable and as environmentally friendly as possible, they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. For warming the steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the manufacture of which rock waste is used as a feedstock. Such material is produced both in rolls and in plates. It is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms, environmental, durable.

Basalt wool is especially popular. It is simply indispensable for thermal insulation of those places of the wall and ceiling, which are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never rot, withstands the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to the location of the steam room.

Basalt wool - technical characteristics of the insulation

As for the most effective at one hundred percent humidity and maximum temperatures, foil films become.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

The choice of material for finishing

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, they take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but operational qualities are considered the main ones:

• hygiene,
• resistance to high humidity and high temperature,
• safety and complete absence of toxins,
• durability and reliability.

Attention! In the production of a steam room, it is forbidden to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various kinds of wood boards. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances emitted by artificial materials can seriously harm health.

The most suitable for finishing the steam room are lining, wooden boards, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Wood is a traditional material in our latitudes; it is used to build Russian baths and Finnish saunas. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions include the use of hardwoods, as they do not emit resin when heated.

1. Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength, such a tree does not rot or crack.
2. Clapboard made of poplar and aspen, thanks to its unique properties, will give relaxation.
3. Ash has special decorative qualities, its core is incredibly beautiful, this breed is very durable.
4. The alder finish guarantees not only reliability, but also the absence of odors.

Deciduous species dry out quickly and therefore the fungus does not threaten them. High-quality lining has a minimum number of knots that can be harmful to health when touched by a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases resins that can cause severe burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

If there is no other choice, be sure to check the pine boards for the presence of so-called "tar pockets".

The decoration of baths and saunas with valuable abacha wood, obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa, is considered incredibly rich and expensive.

Prices for lining

Preparation for finishing work

Installation work begins after the supply of electricians, when all other necessary communications have already been laid.

For finishing you will need such materials and tools:

• building level,
• bonding device,
• perforator,
• screwdriver,
• a hammer,
• lining under the crate,
• clamps and screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, they start work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To avoid heat loss, even the smallest cracks are sealed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have differences, then they must be leveled with wooden spacers so that the mounting rails do not subsequently appear at different heights.

Installation of the crate and insulation

No. p / p	Illustration	Comment
1		To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which was previously leveled.
2		And then a crate of timber is attached. Well-dried beams of 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm are used without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The distance during installation should not be more than 1 m. It is great if it is approximately 0.6 m.
3		First, guides are mounted on the wall according to the level. After that, according to the principle of racks, the extreme bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4		Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that is formed between the floor plane and the rack provides for the "movement" of the tree during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is closed with a plinth). After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve to attach smaller bars to them. This method of fastening is called floating, it will help to avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire crate is adjusted to the level and fixed, if necessary, linings are used.
		For semicircular or curved surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole bar, but parts of it.
5		A heater is placed in the constructed frame. Over time, mineral wool can slip or deform, so it is fixed with polypropylene twine.
6		Then, with a rough side, a second layer of vapor barrier is placed to the insulation, it is fixed with a stapler.
7		So that the tree is not subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing a wood preservative

The acquired wood protection composition must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, pathogens and insects. You should not buy the cheapest composition, you need to focus on quality. When buying, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Of the domestic means of protection, Neomid has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, they can be fire-retardant and protect the affected areas of the tree. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for the steam room and protects the wood from decay.

Neomid 200 - impregnation

100% natural linseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the most successful ecological choice.

Linseed oil can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Due to the high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensate, prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stain, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

SATU SAUNAVAHA - wax

Prices for antiseptics for wood

wood preservative V33

Treating wood with an antiseptic

For work you will need:

• short-haired brush or brush,
• White Spirit,
• warm water,
• soap.

The surface to be treated must be clean and dry. Before processing, the wood is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will lie more tenaciously.

It is necessary to impregnate the timber and lining from all sides, after which the tree should dry out (48 hours). It is recommended to heat linseed oil TM "GreenTherm" before use in a steam bath to 40 ° -45 ° C. It can be applied to the surface with a brush or a rag.

Attention! The brush should only be shorthaired. They don’t paint with oil, they rub it in, so a brush with long hair is not suitable for work.

Excess oil, which the wood has not absorbed, is removed from the surface with a rag and the next layer is applied. Between the application of 2-3 layers, technological breaks are observed for at least 12 hours. Especially carefully process the ends of the boards and timber. Drying takes 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of no more than 65%. Excess oil in areas of low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as you like, in accordance with the artistic design intent. But when finishing a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unequally, because at the top of the room - the highest temperature, and at the bottom - the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is uneven, the boards will very quickly "lead" high humidity. The logical choice is the horizontal placement of the boards.

If the lining is fixed horizontally, then the board heats up evenly along the entire length, bending deformation does not appear. Of course, different trim elements, depending on their location, will be in completely different conditions, but this will not affect the overall appearance of the skin at all.

Lining fastening

Before starting work, you need to measure the steam room and cut the lining of the desired height.

The choice of type of fastening depends on the air temperature in the room.

If the room is not cold, then you can use clamps, not nails. Finishing nails are visible on the front surface, so you can get burned from them. Kleimers are completely invisible, while the lining fixed by them can be dismantled and mounted several times.

The lining of the steam room is made from the stove and bypasses the room around the perimeter. The correct mounting direction is from top to bottom.

The board is fastened with a groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. The boards of the lining are assembled "groove into thorn", like a designer.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will drain freely, without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from decay. The bottom boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws, in which case they can be easily dismantled and replaced without disassembling the entire sheathing structure. On the doorway, the trim is nailed using bars.

Attention! A ventilation gap must be left between the lining and the vapor barrier foil, otherwise the wood will begin to rot on the reverse side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not come into direct contact with the floor either. One smart solution is to lay out a row of tiles where the walls meet the floor.

Video - Finishing the bath

Choice of tiles or stone

For a good bath, with the smell of natural wood, steamed broom and aromatic oils, natural stone tiles are suitable: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and serpentine.

These natural materials withstand the highest temperatures, have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for flooring and for laying a heat-resistant screen next to the stove. Ceramic decoration is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made of clay have been considered the standard of environmental cleanliness; they do not emit any odors and fumes at all. For finishing the steam room, products with high heat resistance and the lowest moisture absorption coefficient are chosen. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles on the floors, it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video - Finishing inside the bath + ceiling insulation

Tile installation

For an area of ​​about 6 square meters, you need to prepare:

• level and tape measure
• 6 square meters of ceramic or stone tiles,
• three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
• one pack of Terracotta grout,
• drill for stirring with a nozzle,
• construction gun,
• a hammer,
• putty knife.

Attention! Heat-resistant glue from the Terracotta company is used in those areas where the temperature will not exceed 400 ° C. When laying tiles in the firebox area, it is necessary to take heat-resistant mastic, it is used in places where heating is up to 1100 ° C.

First, prepare the base. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is laid, then a mesh, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

In the photo - waterproofing and mesh for applying the solution

A cement screed is made on the floor, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and a drain should be organized. Twine or fishing line is pulled along the perimeter of the floor or wall, and it will be possible to check the correct installation.

Before starting laying, ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

In the production of a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed well, the solution should have the consistency of thick cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from the bottom up, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely chopped drywall instead of crosses. When arranging a drain hole on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

The floor tiles are mounted on glue with sand, glue without sand can shrink. All other rows are placed on the level already created with a slope.

On the reverse side of each tile, the mortar is applied in such a way that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed to the floor. Then it is seated with a spatula.

For seams, heat-resistant grout "Terracotta" is used, which can withstand temperatures up to 400 ° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is poured with water and mixed with a mixer. After that, the solution can be filled into the tube of the gun, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! Grout should not get on the outside of the decor. If it does get on the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only after that it is easy to remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work was completed, it is already possible to carry out the first firebox.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Finishing the steam room