Do-it-yourself installation of a suspended ceiling made of pvc. Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels with your own hands: step by step instructions. Selection of panels and calculation of the amount of material

The use of plastic for interior decoration is becoming widespread. It is used for both walls and ceilings. will solve many problems associated with the quality of the ceiling.

Plastic panels have excellent performance and attractive appearance.

Plastic panels have many positive qualities. They are quite technological and beautiful. From a huge assortment, you can always choose what you like. Do-it-yourself plastic suspended ceiling is convenient, fast and practical.

Features of the choice of material

Suspended ceiling can be made of different materials (wood, chipboard, polystyrene, etc.). One of the most common designs is a suspended ceiling made of plastic. Such a surface has a number of advantages: ease of installation, low weight, large color gamut, low cost. Most importantly, the plastic ceiling has a high moisture resistance. It can be easily washed with water. Plastic is not deformed by changes in humidity and temperature.

The most optimal material for plastic ceilings is polyvinyl chloride. It can be used as tiles or panels. The greatest application is found by long PVC panels. They are made in two types - seamless and embossed. Seamless panels have a continuous flat surface, and smooth edges allow you to discreetly join the panels to each other.

At the relief panel, the edge on one side ends with a groove, and the other edge has a longitudinal tenon. When joining the panels, the spike enters the groove, and an even rectangular groove is formed along the joint.

The panel is made in the form of two layers of plastic, between which stiffening ribs are formed, which provides sufficient mechanical strength. The front surface of the panel is polished (varnished). Standard PVC panels are sold with a width of 25 cm and a length of 2.7 or 3 m.

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The choice of ceiling design

A plastic ceiling can have two main structures - suspended and stretched. Stretch plastic ceiling is made of vinyl film. During the installation of such a ceiling, the film must be heated up to 70º, which requires the use of special heat guns. Installation of stretch ceilings, as a rule, is carried out by professionals.

To install a plastic ceiling with your own hands, a suspended structure made of PVC panels is most suitable. Suspended ceiling is a horizontal surface formed from a glossy layer of PVC panels, mounted on a metal frame. In this case, the frame is fixed on the wall and ceiling, at a certain distance from the surface of the ceiling.

The frame is a tightly connected mounting structure in the form of a lattice. The frame is made of metal profiles. The frame is attached to the wall using a U-shaped guide profile. Usually, a profile type PN 28x27 is used, 28 mm wide and 27 mm high. The main one is the ceiling profile, which has a C-shape. The profile type PS60x27 is used. From this profile, a lattice structure of the frame is created.

The frame is attached to the ceiling with the help of hangers, which provide fastening of the profiles to the ceiling. For the cross-shaped connection of profiles, the crab fastener is used. Between themselves, the ceiling profiles are connected using a U-shaped connector with a length of 30-40 mm.

When installing PVC panels, the connection along the length is carried out using a plastic docking profile (H-shaped molding). In addition, at the end of the installation of plastic, plastic skirting boards, starting profiles, cornice profiles, corners (outer and inner), clamps can be used to hide the initial gaps.

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Preparatory work

The main ceiling after the installation of the suspended ceiling will be hidden from prying eyes, therefore, increased requirements are not put forward to its surface. However, it should not be allowed to crumble, and most importantly, that traces of mold or fungus remain on it after flooding. The surface of the ceiling should be primed and plastered so that no cracks or chips remain on it. Areas with the manifestation of mold must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, for example, a solution of copper sulphate.

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Surface marking

An important preparatory step that affects the quality of the entire false ceiling is marking. First, the true height of the main ceiling at different points in the room is specified. To do this, the height of the wall is measured with a tape measure at least at three points - in the corners and in the center. In the corner with the lowest wall height, a mark is made at the height of the frame profile suspension, that is, at a distance of 5-10 cm from the ceiling. The distance is determined by the need for communication.

If it is planned to install built-in (spot) lamps or lay pipes along the ceiling, then this distance is 8-10 cm; if nothing extra is planned, then 5-6 cm is enough. Then a mark is applied on the wall in another corner, but taking into account the actual height of the wall. The suspended ceiling must be parallel to the floor. Through the marks in the corners, a straight line is beaten off with the help of a well-tight and pre-painted with pigment building cord. The opposite wall is marked in the same way. The lines are interconnected by marking other walls. Thus, a line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the room - it is the lower boundary of the frame guide profile.

The marking of ceiling profiles is carried out on the surface of the ceiling. To do this, first, parallel lines are beaten off with a cord in the longitudinal direction. The first and last lines are drawn at a distance of 15-20 cm from the wall. Parallel lines are drawn between them with a step of 30-40 cm. Lines are marked in the transverse direction in the same way. A grid should be applied to the ceiling, which indicates the location of the center line of the ceiling profiles. The marking of the installation of suspensions is made along these lines. The first marks are made at a distance of 25-30 cm from each wall, and all subsequent marks in increments of 50-60 cm. The marks should not coincide with the crosshairs of the lines - they must be offset by at least 5 cm from the crosshairs.

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Guide profile installation

Installation of the false ceiling frame begins with the installation of a U-shaped profile on the wall along the marking line. First, holes are drilled at the base of the profiles for fastening to the wall: the first - at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge, the next after 30-40 cm from each other. Then it is applied to the wall, and marks are applied on it. According to the marks with a puncher or an electric drill, holes with a diameter of 8 mm are made in the wall. Plastic dowels are inserted into the holes. The PN profile is fixed in dowels with screws. Thus, guides are installed around the entire perimeter of the room. The horizontal position of the installation should be checked with a level.

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Installation of ceiling profiles and installation of communications

First, profiles are installed that are directed along a short wall. These profiles should be stretched from wall to wall. If it is not possible to select a profile of the desired length, then it is joined from two segments. The connection must be reliable and rigid - using a U-shaped standard mount or a metal bar. PS profiles are installed in accordance with the markings on the ceiling. The ends are fastened inside the guide profile fixed on the wall. Profiles are placed base down. PS profiles in the perpendicular direction are mounted from segments, the length of which is equal to the distance between the installed PS profiles. Attach them with a crab mount.

The fixing of PS profiles on the ceiling is carried out through suspensions. Suspensions are bent, forming a U-shape. The height of the side rack must strictly correspond to the distance from the ceiling to the PS profile. The suspension platform is fastened with screws to dowels on the main ceiling in the marked places. The legs of the suspension are attached to the sides of the profile with self-tapping screws.

Before fixing the plastic panels, it is necessary to place the entire communication system inside the frame (if necessary). First of all, it concerns electrical wires - for a chandelier or a system of spotlights. The wires must be bundled and placed inside the corrugated hose. Wiring is carried out to the place of attachment of lighting equipment. The wires are neatly attached to the frame profiles.

Plastic finishing panels are a material that differs from analogues by a combination of low cost, ease of installation and good visual characteristics. The popularity of this material is constantly growing, as is the range of plastic products. On the market you can find a variety of panels - plain and multi-colored, striped, plaid, with various patterns and images.

However, if we are talking about panels for the ceiling, then the most popular are the details of light shades. The surface of the parts can be glossy or matte, rough or partially shiny, which is achieved through small inserts. Since plastic panels are most often used in small spaces, the choice usually falls on glossy products - they create the illusion of a raised ceiling, as a result of which the room seems more spacious than it really is. In addition, shiny panels reflect light, which allows you to save a little on the power of lighting fixtures.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic

There are two polar opinions about whether plastic can be used in a residential building. Some argue that this material is a danger to human health and violates the correct living conditions in the house. Others consider plastic completely harmless and quite suitable for residential use. Before making a plastic ceiling, it is worth examining all the qualities of the material used.

Understanding this issue in more detail, then all opinions “against” plastic do not stand up to criticism. In particular, it is immediately worth remembering that a huge number of plastic products are used in everyday life - and they are used not only in industrial sectors, but also in medicine and the food industry. Various items made of plastic are found in large quantities in bathrooms, kitchens and living areas, where plastic is present in almost every household appliance. One of the advantages is that you can make a suspended ceiling with your own hands from PVC panels, since this work is not difficult.

Plastic itself is a monolithic material without any cracks, gaps and pores. This quality suggests that it does not create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and other microorganisms. Of course, in the presence of a nutrient medium, bacteria can multiply on the surface of the plastic - but in this case, you can get rid of them with an ordinary rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant. An indirect sign of the bacteriological safety of plastic products is the fact that they are approved for use in medical institutions.

The second argument of opponents of plastic parts is high flammability. At first glance, it may seem that this is justified - plastic begins to actively burn at temperatures above +360 degrees. But even this argument, upon a detailed study of the issue, cannot be called a lack of plastic - for example, wood fiber boards light up at a temperature of +250 degrees, i.e. their ignition threshold is much lower. In addition, an open flame is dangerous not only in itself, but also because of the smoke that is released in the process - and in this indicator, plastic outperforms its closest competitors, releasing 50% less smoke when burned.

The last imaginary drawback of plastic products is complete tightness. And this factor can also be ignored - the ceiling design is rarely completely airtight, so there will still be minimal air exchange. Both in private houses and in apartments, the issue of ventilation is solved very simply - one grate is built into the opposite edges of the ceiling, each of which gives the ceiling the ability to "breathe". In addition, when mounting a suspended plastic ceiling in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), ventilation will have to be done, regardless of the material used to make the ceiling and the type of housing.

Classification of plastic ceiling panels

There are two main types of PVC panels:

• Ceiling, which have reduced weight and strength, since high mechanical strength is irrelevant for the ceiling;
• Wall, stronger and more rigid products that are more expensive and not designed for use on the ceiling (of course, they can be installed, but this is simply not practical).

Ceiling panels can vary in size and surface type:

• Rack products - visually they resemble ordinary lining, i.e. these are just strips, only made of plastic;
• Seamless panels, which represent an almost solid surface with almost imperceptible joints (the elements are connected to each other by means of a lateral tongue and groove joint);
• Sheet ceiling plastic is a rather rare and difficult to process material that is best suited for finishing columns or other non-linear surfaces (it is practically not used in domestic construction).

Before you assemble the ceiling from plastic panels, you need to choose the best option for specific conditions. Regardless of the type of panels, they are all easy to wet clean and are of good quality. Good panels can last up to 10 years - and here we are only talking about visual characteristics, and the full service life can be an order of magnitude longer.

Ceiling made of plastic panels

Installation of ceiling panels can be carried out according to two concepts:

• Suspended ceiling, which is equipped as a separate structure;
• Standard plastic ceiling, in which all elements are attached directly to the main ceiling surface.

Regardless of the chosen scheme, when installing plastic on the ceiling, you need to use moldings. These elements are finishing profiles that are necessary to mask the ends and joints of the structure. The choice of the type and size of moldings directly depends on the configuration of the future ceiling and the characteristics of the room.

Suspended ceiling

Suspended ceiling structures - this is a fairly popular way to finish the ceiling, which has a number of characteristic advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of such structures is the absence of the need to prepare a strobe for laying communications - and this is essential, because thanks to this, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is significantly simplified.

On the other hand, a suspended plastic ceiling always takes away part of the free volume of the room. In the most successful scenario, such a ceiling will lower the level of the room by 3 cm - but this is only subject to the installation of conventional lighting fixtures. To install recessed lights, the ceiling will have to be placed at a distance of about 10 cm from the main level. The only way to reduce this distance is to use LED lamps, which, with sufficient quantity and power, can replace traditional lighting.

Frame installation

Before you make a suspended ceiling from panels, you need to assemble a frame for it:

• The main structural element will be guides, which are most often used as standard profiles for mounting drywall sheets. In dry rooms, you can successfully use a regular ceiling profile made of plastic panels, and for rooms with high humidity, it is best to take galvanized products. However, you can take a completely different path and make a frame of wooden bars with a section of 30x30 mm or more.
• Profile elements are fixed along the perimeter of the room in compliance with the level. Further, with the help of suspensions or bars in increments of 50-60 cm, intermediate guides are attached. All guides for the ceiling of plastic panels must be strictly level. To align the intermediate elements, it is worth pulling the threads between the parts of the perimeter and focus on them.
• If the suspended structure is located at a minimum distance from the main one, then the strips can be attached directly to the ceiling surface. To adjust the level in this case, you can use various linings made of pieces of wood or plywood. It is necessary to calculate the structure so that a corrugation 3 cm thick can pass under it.

Setting up the starting strips

After assembling the frame, you can start installing the starting profiles:

1. To work, you need to take a ceiling molding. It is attached to the frame elements located around the perimeter of the room. The edges of the moldings must be cut so that the angle is exactly 45 degrees. The length also needs to be calculated and measured very accurately - even a minimal deviation will lead to noticeable gaps. Of course, small gaps can be masked with putty, but it would be much better to cut the parts in advance so that they fall into place with a little space.
2. To fix the bar, you can use adhesive or self-tapping screws. Moldings are recommended to be glued with liquid nails - in this case, a perfect joint is obtained. When using other fasteners, the bar will turn forward a little.
3. The edge directed towards the wall is covered with a zigzag strip of glue. The wall must be degreased before joining. The plank is mounted in its place, pressed tightly along the entire length and removed, after which glue remains on the wall surface. When it dries a little (about 5 minutes), you can finally install the bar, be sure to check it for alignment - until the glue has completely hardened, it can be corrected.
4. When three profiles are glued, you need to leave them until the glue has completely hardened, which usually takes from 8 to 12 hours. Then you can continue with the installation. During the installation process, liquid nails can squeeze out, and you should not remove them immediately - they will be smeared on the wall and ceiling details. You need to wait until the glue dries completely and carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

Fixing plastic panels

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels:

1. When mounting a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, you first need to determine the length of the panels. To do this, you need to measure the distance between the joints of the skirting boards and add about 1.5 cm to it. You do not need to cut the parts in accordance with the length or width of the room - in this case they will not go into the profile. With ideal room geometry, you can cut a lot of parts, but this is rarely the case, so it is best to prepare the panels as they are attached.
2. The first panel comes with three edges into the molding. You need to install the panel with the spike forward so that it connects to the bar. When using soft finishing profiles, the mounting shelf can bend and create certain difficulties. To get rid of this phenomenon, you can slightly fix this edge with self-tapping screws. You can also use a spatula, filling the edge of the panel with it. An important point - the panel should immediately go into the profile along the entire length. The mounted elements are immediately attached to the rails using self-tapping screws or a construction stapler if the frame was assembled from wooden elements.
3. Further installation of a plastic suspended ceiling looks exactly the same for each individual panel. First, one edge of the strip is inserted into the molding by 6-7 mm, then the other is inserted. The mounted bar is leveled and carefully driven in so that the lock fits into the groove. To check how well the strip is installed, you need to look at it from below - if there is no noticeable gap at the junction, then everything is in order.
4. Do-it-yourself installation of plastic panels on the ceiling with your own hands is best done with an assistant - he can hold the mounted panel until it is fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult to cope with this work alone, but there is a way out - to eliminate the deflection of the bar on the profile, you can stick small pieces of double-sided tape.
5. When mounting suspended ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands, you need to remember that it is necessary to cut holes for lamps in each panel - and for this you need to know in advance exactly where they will be installed. For cutting, you can use any suitable tool - for example, a drill with an annular nozzle. You need to insert fixtures, connect and check them immediately - after the ceiling is fully assembled, this work simply will not work.

Before you make a false ceiling made of plastic, you need to carefully understand the described technology and follow it during installation. However, at this stage, the installation of the structure does not end.

Mounting the last panel

At the stage of installing the last plastic part, a lot of problems arise. All these problems are related to the size and features of the fastening of this element. However, everything is simple with dimensions - the bar is cut in accordance with the actual dimensions of the ceiling in its current form.

Further events can develop according to two scenarios:

1. The trimmed panel is inserted into the glued starter profile or ceiling plinth for plastic panels. To make this possible, the panel must be cut so that it is 5-7 mm shorter than the existing gap - otherwise it cannot be installed. This option for attaching the last strip has a significant drawback - it ends up being shorter than necessary. Over time, the strip will sink a little into the molding, and a small gap will appear on the ceiling between the last and previous strip.
2. The strip can not only be inserted, but also glued. In this case, when cutting, you must observe the actual dimensions of the gap between the frame and the penultimate panel. The technology of gluing the strip looks exactly the same as with all other panels. The disadvantage of this method is that the last panel turns out to be non-removable, and if necessary, it will have to be broken to get to the interior of the ceiling.

When all the panels are mounted, it remains to install only the last plinth. A mounting plate is cut off from it and corners are cut (necessarily at 45 degrees). After making sure that the plinth is cut correctly, it can be smeared with glue on both sides, and installed in its place.

Sealing with acrylic

With how to make a plastic ceiling, everything is clear - but there is one more step that needs to be completed in the vast majority of cases. We are talking about sealing the seams of the structure with white acrylic. When using high-quality panels with the correct geometry, you will not need to adjust the design.

The technology for filling joints is quite simple:

1. You need to take acrylic sealant and fill it with a mounting gun. Using a gun, you need to carefully close up all the gaps, joints between the panels, plinth and ceiling, as well as corner sections. As a rule, there are a lot of noticeable gaps in the structure, so it’s worth taking a good walk around the entire perimeter of the ceiling.
2. You need to fill the gaps in small sections of about 30-40 cm. All excess must be removed during the sealing process, and the seam must be leveled. Acrylic has a very high curing speed, so it must be corrected immediately upon application. To remove excess acrylic, you can use a soft cloth or just your finger. The hardening excess is cut off with the sharp edge of a spatula, after which everything is rubbed with a damp sponge and left to dry completely for 8-12 hours.
3. Acrylic, when solidified, may decrease in volume, being drawn into the cavity of the seam. In this case, it is recommended to walk around the entire perimeter of the structure again. As a rule, two passes are enough to fully seal the entire ceiling. The stains remaining on the surface of the ceiling are wiped first with a damp sponge, and then the panels are polished with a soft cloth.

Fixing plastic panels to the main ceiling

If there is no need to level the main ceiling, then you can attach plastic panels directly to it. The sequence of work in this case completely coincides with the technology described above: first of all, the starting profile is mounted, panels adjusted to the dimensions are mounted in it, which are attached in increments of no more than 50 cm.

The selection of fasteners in this case directly depends on the material from which the ceiling is made:

• For wooden structures, small nails or staples of a construction stapler are quite suitable;
• In the case of concrete, it would be best to assemble the frame and install it at a minimum distance from the ceiling, because self-tapping screws will not go into such an overlap, and drilling individual holes for dowels is too troublesome and impractical;
• Liquid nails also remain relevant, but when using them, you need to take into account the fact that the design will eventually turn out to be non-separable.

Before you make a plastic ceiling, you need to select all the elements in advance and purchase them in the required quantity.

Lamps in the plastic ceiling

The selection of the number of lamps and their design is a purely individual matter, so it is pointless to discuss it. Much more important is the choice of the type of lamps and the features of their power supply. For plastic ceilings, 220 V lamps are suitable, represented by incandescent or economical lamps, and lamps with a 12 V step-down transformer - halogen and LED products.

Luminaires powered by a 220 V network and represented by incandescent lamps with a power of more than 40 W must be installed in a thermally insulated housing. It's all about heating the lamp during operation, because of which the plastic can darken and deform over time. So that the increase in temperature does not affect the plastic, and thermal insulation is used.

You also need to pay attention to the safety rules when using a 220 V network. When installing a lamp in a bathroom or kitchen, it must be protected from direct water ingress. Of course, devices with such a degree of protection are more expensive, and the dimensions of such lamps are quite large. For the installation of moisture-resistant lamps, it will be necessary to install mortgages when installing the ceiling frame.

With halogen and LED lamps, the situation is somewhat simpler, since they work from 12 V, and the electrical safety rules in this case are not so strict. When using such fixtures, power is supplied through an automatic machine, which must be installed regardless of the type and characteristics of lighting fixtures, to the transformer, and from it directly to the fixtures.

One transformer provides power to 4 lamps, but the length of the wire between the lamp and the transformer should be no more than 2 m. This rule is primarily due to the stability and characteristics of the supplied voltage - an increase in the length of the wire leads to a significant decrease in the intensity of illumination. When installing in the bathroom, this can become a serious problem - the transformer will have to be hidden somehow.

Conclusion

A plastic ceiling is a rather convenient, attractive and profitable solution. The visual characteristics of this design are quite good and suitable for many styles, and the ease of installation allows you to assemble a plastic ceiling even in the absence of relevant experience.

Until recently, we could not even imagine what could be done with the ceiling, except to whitewash or cover with a water-based emulsion. If you wanted something "cheerful", they covered it with wallpaper. With the advent of new building materials in our lives, completely new ceiling finishing technologies began to appear. The arsenal of such design solutions includes the installation of stretch, suspended, mineral, glass, mirror, stained glass, plasterboard ceilings, as well as sheathed with wooden or plastic panels. Let's talk today how to make a plastic ceiling.

Features of plastic ceilings

Plastic panels for such ceilings are made of polyvinyl chloride - a safe and harmless material. In our country, PVC panels are used everywhere for finishing ceilings and walls, as well as for the manufacture of containers for food and products. So do not doubt the environmental friendliness of the material.

It is important to remember that plastic panels for walls and ceilings are different, and it is not recommended to buy one to replace the other. Ceiling panels are much lighter, and this is an important detail, although their mechanical strength is much lower. If you use wall panels when installing the ceiling, there will be a large load on the frame, and this is not very safe. And using plastic panels for the ceiling when decorating walls, you can observe their deformation over time.

The plastic ceiling is a type of false ceilings. A plastic sheathing is mounted on the frame, which is attached with special suspensions. For the frame you need wooden slats (you can use a metal profile). For the manufacture of the ceiling itself, you can use simple inexpensive materials, but it is better to invest in better plastic. Fixing plastic panels on the ceiling is provided by skirting boards for plastic ceilings and a shaped profile.

When installing plastic ceilings, there is one caveat. The appearance of the surface depends on the selected panels. When buying glossy panels, the joining seams on such a ceiling will be hardly noticeable, they are practically invisible. The glossy ceiling is a reflective surface that looks quite original. If you plan to make a ceiling of matte, colored and patterned panels, then be prepared that the seams will be visible quite clearly.

Advantages of a plastic ceiling

If you, when making repairs in your apartment, are planning to make a plastic ceiling, your choice is quite far-sighted, because such a ceiling has many advantages. Firstly, if the neighbors flood you, the plastic ceiling will not have to be redone, and if the flooding is not serious, you will not notice anything at all. And this is a big plus, because the ceiling, pasted with wallpaper or whitewashed, would have to be whitewashed or glued a second time.

At the end of the work, you will receive a perfectly flat ceiling, which, if desired, can be washed with water or detergents. But even if you do not bother to take care of the plastic ceiling, it still will not lose its beauty and originality. Even in the event of a temperature difference, the ceiling will retain its flat surface. Wallpapered ceilings fade over time, and plastic ones will retain their appearance for many years.

With the help of such a ceiling, you can not only hide large irregularities or pipes, but also turn them into a particle of the interior by arranging beautiful modern lamps in that place. The ceiling can be made not only smooth, but also embossed, using wide panels with contours. Another advantage of a plastic false ceiling is its price. Of course, this is not the cheapest type of ceiling, but, nevertheless, it will cost you much less than, for example, a stretch ceiling. In addition, the air gap that forms between the ceiling and the plastic creates good sound insulation.

Since PVC panels are surprisingly moisture resistant, it is logical to install them in the bathroom. When flooded, plastic panels are able to withstand the weight of water and not be afraid of the main enemy of moisture called mold. Especially if PVC panels are also installed on the walls and in the kitchen. For the same reason, such material is great for lining a home kitchen. Plastic panels in the kitchen are especially good, because such a ceiling is easy to clean with ordinary detergents, and, as you know, with the constant operation of the gas stove, all surfaces are polluted with soot.

The choice of plastic for mounting

First you need to calculate how much material you need. It's easy enough if you know the area of ​​the ceiling. If not, then it can be measured. A complex configuration room will need to be divided into parts - rectangular sections on the ceiling, then the results should be rounded up. If the room is rectangular, it will be easier to measure everything.

When buying, you just need to look at the packaging - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plastic panel must be indicated there. Also take into account the number of panels in the package, consider how many panels you need to cover the entire area and add a little (taking into account trimming and the like).

You can determine the type and color of plastic directly during the purchase. The design of the whole room depends on which panels you choose for mounting the plastic ceiling. White panels are the cheapest, while patterned and textured panels will cost more. All panels must be in the same color (color scheme) and the pattern, if any, must be accurate and correct. If a panel that catches your eye is lighter than the rest, or, on the contrary, very dark, it is best to change it to one that fits perfectly into the overall tone of all panels.

When you buy a material such as plastic, you need to be very careful and inspect each panel, because defective models are not desirable to use. When you bought plastic, when transporting it to the house, remember that it cannot be damaged, because then during installation it will not fulfill its function and will not create perfectly even joints.

Choice of materials and tools

So, first you should get acquainted with the most common profiles for attaching plastic panels:

1. The starting profile that is most frequently encountered. Such structures serve to close the ends of the panels and are attached to the ceiling along the perimeter of the entire room.
2. H-profile is also called connecting. Based on the name, it is used to increase the length of the panels.
3. F-profile is designed to close the ends of the plastic panels at the outer corners when moving to another plane. That is, one wall is sheathed with PVC panels, but the one around the corner is not.
4. The plastic ceiling plinth is essentially the same starting profile, but a little ennobled.
5. The outer and inner plastic corner are used to close the end panels at the inner and outer corners.
6. A universal plastic corner can be glued to any corners, but it does not look promising.

To determine the number of profiles, you need a pre-drawn scheme. Draw on paper a proportionally reduced ceiling. It should be borne in mind that the profiles should be 60 centimeters apart from each other. Thus, it will be easier to deal with the number of bars, the footage of the plinth and profile. You will also need to buy suspensions for the frame, lamps (if necessary) and fasteners.

Profiles are also required that are attached around the perimeter. The number of self-tapping screws for fastening panels and dowels, which are necessary for fixing the profiles, is calculated taking into account the number of required profiles, plus a margin. If desired, replace the profiles with wooden beams and use staples instead of self-tapping screws. So you can reduce the cost of the process and simplify the assembly of plastic panels.

To calculate the amount of ceiling plinth required, divide the ceiling perimeter by 3 (if the segment is 3 meters long). From the tools you will need: a ruler, a wallpaper knife, a tape measure, a building level, a hacksaw, drills, a stepladder. As well as a drill, puncher, dowels, self-tapping screws, paint cord, hangers and ceiling profiles. When all the tools are prepared and the materials are purchased, you can start installing the ceiling.

Preparatory work

Basically, preparatory work when installing a plastic ceiling with your own hands is not needed, but if you wish, you can sand it with medium grit sandpaper. Of course, if you are making such a ceiling in a room with increased humidity, for example, in a bathroom, it is better to treat the concrete floor with an antifungal compound.

The first step is to determine the level of the future ceiling (how many centimeters it will be lowered down). If you still decide to mount the lamps, do not forget to leave room for them. Basically, the fixtures have a depth of five to ten centimeters.

If you will mount the fixtures yourself, pay attention to the resistance of the wire you buy, but without certain knowledge in this matter, it is better to turn to a professional. It is better to fix the wires above the plastic in advance and bring them to the switch. The wiring must be isolated and hidden behind the profiles. Next, we make markings on the wall around the perimeter.

Mounting the box on the ceiling

When determining the horizontal, it is important to remember that the sloping ceiling will be striking, so you need to measure everything more than once, first measuring the height of all corners and choosing the lowest one. Then you should retreat 5 centimeters to the floor and mark the horizontal, using the water level. In the corners and on the ledges, you should leave marks, as in the photo of plastic ceilings. Further, using a masking cord, beat off the lines that were previously determined.

On the marked strip, which shows how much lower the ceiling will be, you need to drill holes for the dowels. This should be done with a drill or puncher. Through the profile you need to make holes directly. Insert the dowels into these holes, and attach the ceiling profile to the wall. The usual length of such profiles is three meters, but they can also be connected to each other if you suddenly have a very large room by inserting one into one. At the same time, do not forget to fasten the profiles to each other with bugs.

Along the entire perimeter of the room, a profile should be attached to the wall, and on the ceiling - suspensions to which the ceiling profile will be attached. Hangers should be mounted along a straight line. The desired lines can be created using a masking cord, not forgetting the distance (about 60 centimeters from one another).

After that, you need to pull the thread-fishing line. This must be done as shown in the video about plastic ceilings, across the entire room, from wall to wall. Further, this thread should be attached to the dowels that already hold the profile. It is important to remember that if you pull the fishing line incorrectly or not tight enough, sagging cannot be avoided, but you need to get a perfectly even horizontal line.

At the level of the thread, the profile should be fixed. This requires an assistant who will hold the profile so that it is as close as possible to the thread, but does not touch it. Having attached the profile to the suspensions, you need to bend them. When the frame is built, you can proceed to the ceiling sheathing with plastic. The plastic itself is recommended to be fixed with self-tapping bugs, not forgetting the points of contact with the profile. It is better to seal even the smallest seams with silicone, and remove excess material with a spatula so that the ceiling looks neat.

plastic ceiling lining

When you start working directly with plastic, pay attention to the room. If it is slightly skewed and uneven around the perimeter, then the first strip of plastic must be cut off very carefully in order to properly hide this flaw. It is necessary that the following strips are attached to the profile perfectly, at a right angle.

It is important to know before making a plastic ceiling that the installation of panels can be carried out not only across the room. You can install the panels along and diagonally, and the colors can thus be easily combined if you want to get an original ceiling with an unusual pattern as a result. If you have chosen thin plastic, then it can be bent, trimming the corners, this will help create an unusual design. There is also a special corner plastic that hides the panel joints. With the help of plastic, you can also make a multi-level ceiling.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling starts from one wall. They need to be cut exactly along the length of the surface with a hacksaw, jigsaw or grinder. When cutting the first panel, it needs to be made a little shorter than the width of the room, by about 3-5 millimeters. Clean the edges with a sandpaper or abrasive mesh. Try not to wrinkle the panels. And most importantly - before installation, do not forget to remove the film from them!

It is necessary to work carefully, because this material is quite fragile. Plastic should be treated with care before plating. If you have already caused damage to the purchased plastic, you can try to hide them with silicone, preferably white. This option will not work if you opted for colored plastic, because silicone is white and transparent.

Fasten the first panel tightly with self-tapping screws on the profiles, fasten all subsequent panels to the rails of the mounting profiles according to the type of constructor. The most difficult stage of the whole procedure is the installation of the last panel. You need to cut along the length by a millimeter less than the distance from one wall to the starting profile at the opposite one. Insert the panel with one side as far as it will go into the profiles, directly into the corner.

The second end will hang freely, slide the panel out of the first corner and insert it. Between the penultimate and last panel you will have a small gap, but they need to be joined somehow. Sometimes you can do it on your own, but most of the time it doesn't work. Then you can use masking tape. Glue a couple of strips across the last panel and pull it up to the previous one.

To mount the luminaire, mark the location on the panel with a pencil. Then you need to cut a hole using a clerical knife. Insert a lamp into the hole and connect the wire to it. Wires need to be run under the ceiling. If you need to install several fixtures, it is recommended to connect them in parallel to each other.

At the end of the installation, the room will change a lot. But it will still need to be glued with a frieze around the perimeter. This is done in order to hide the plastic attachment points. And given the moisture resistance and practicality of such a ceiling, we can say that this is a fairly profitable choice for repairs in your home.

Among all the options for inexpensive finishes, there is probably no more versatile material than. They are suitable for decorating ceiling surfaces, walls, and at the same time, they have a fairly impressive list of positive qualities. But not everyone knows how to sheathe walls or ceilings with plastic. This article will discuss in detail the installation of plastic on walls and ceilings, as well as a video demonstrating the installation process.

What is required for work

It is easy to assemble a plastic wall or ceiling cladding with your own hands, and at the end of the material there is a video demonstrating this. To facilitate the preparation and the work itself, there is also a detailed instruction, after reading which, there should not be any incomprehensible moments.

Before attaching plastic to the ceiling or walls, it is necessary to calculate the required amount of material. This is easy to do - you need to divide the surface area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plank. They are different and specific data on the selected varieties are on the packaging or on the product price tag.

In addition to the coating material, it is necessary to prepare the material for assembling the frame. It can be made from wood or metal profiles. The number of components depends on the type of structure, its complexity and is calculated in each case individually. After the components necessary for installation are purchased and ready for installation, you need to check the availability of the necessary tools. You don't need too many tools:

• Hacksaw for metal
• screwdriver
• Building or laser level
• Roulette
• A hammer
• In some cases, a construction stapler and a plumb line

After the materials and tools are ready, you can proceed to the next stage of work - surface preparation. In videos that show how to knock out a ceiling with plastic, this stage of work is often omitted, but it is necessary.

Training

This is a simple operation and consists in the fact that the entire area that will be hidden under the plane of the new coating must be treated or impregnated with a bactericidal effect. Such processing is carried out so that mold does not appear under the future coating or fungus does not develop. Before that, all traces of the old finish and peeling fragments of plaster or putty are removed using improvised tools, such as a spatula.

frame

To fix the skin is necessary. Regardless of where the plastic will be mounted - on the ceiling or on the wall, such a frame is required. Without it, there will be nowhere to attach fragments of the coating, and in the video below, which demonstrates how to hem the ceiling with plastic, attention is also paid to the frame.

The distance between the elements of the crate is from 30 to 40 centimeters. At the same time, if installation is carried out on the ceiling, the distance should not exceed 30 centimeters - otherwise, the coating may sag under its own weight.

Mounting panels on the wall

After assembling the base or batten, you can begin to fix the details of the outer covering of plastic panels. This process is slightly different from how plastic is mounted on the ceiling.

It all starts with the corner or the final part. As a rule, this is a plastic corner or a special element that covers the end of the part. The first plank of the cover is inserted into it. If the length of the plank reaches the overlap and a solid surface is assembled, a decorative plinth of a special shape is installed at the top, into which the end of the plank is inserted.

When the first part is installed, it must be fixed. You can do this with a self-tapping screw, clamps or staples from a stapler. Next, the next cover element is inserted, with a protrusion into the groove of the previous panel. You need to insert tightly, until it stops. This is how the entire coverage area is assembled with the obligatory fixation of each detail.

It is inserted with force, one side into the final corner or end piece, and the other into the previous panel. If necessary, the fragment is adjusted in size to the desired dimensions by sawing off or cutting off the excess part. Below is a video that shows how to mount the plastic on the wall and ceiling - after assembling the crate, these processes differ slightly.

Floor mount

Asking the question - how to make a plastic ceiling, you need to take into account some points of this work. Firstly, it is better to do this work with an assistant - it will be much easier, since everything will have to be done on weight, but otherwise, you can assemble a plastic ceiling with your own hands and there is nothing complicated about it.

Secondly, you need to take into account the distance that will be required to install the fixtures. Their ceiling part should not touch the ceiling. This is an important point, since everything should be taken into account when marking, even before you hem the ceiling with plastic and assemble the crate.

Usually, this distance is about 10 or 15 centimeters. It can be a little more or less, in accordance with the dimensions of the room and the design of the lighting devices, but, in any case, no less than the lighting required for installation.

Next comes the assembly of the frame. It is assembled in much the same way as on the wall, differing only in the shape of the parts used - the end part of the panels is inserted into a plinth fixed to the wall, in which there is a special groove for this. It is installed first, strictly horizontally, according to the pre-applied markings. Here you will need a building level, and even better - a laser one.

After the crate is installed, it is possible to sheathe the ceiling with plastic, and in order to make it easier to understand the intricacies of this process, below are several videos that detail all the stages of work.

If desired, even a person without experience can sheathe the ceiling in the bathroom with plastic. Especially if he has detailed instructions in his assistants on how to make a ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands. The main stages and nuances can be seen in the video.

If desired, each owner can make a plastic ceiling in his bathroom

Why plastic panel ceiling

Polyvinyl chloride, also known as PVC, is a practical and fairly reliable finishing material that is great for rooms with high humidity. The ceiling made of plastic panels is easy to care for, it is not afraid of mold. A variety of colors and textures allows you to decorate the bathroom in the most suitable color scheme.

Of course, plastic is inferior to the aesthetics of stretch ceilings, but it allows you to quickly and most importantly inexpensively update the room.

PVC panels for the ceiling can be of different colors

Design features of suspended ceilings

The design of the false ceiling is quite simple - it is a frame that is attached to the base ceiling and sheathed with a suitable finishing material. If we are talking about a bathroom, then it is better to make the frame not from wooden beams, but from metal profiles for drywall.

When the reinforcing profiles are attached directly to the ceiling, the structure is called hemmed, but if they are lowered on suspensions, it is suspended. The ceiling frame consists of thin wall profiles (UD) screwed along the perimeter of the room and wide rails (CD) that are attached perpendicular to the plastic strips.

Suspended ceiling fixing

How to choose plastic panels

To choose a really high-quality material, be sure to pay attention to the stiffeners, the more there are, the stronger and more reliable the panel will be and the less risk that after a few years it will deform under its own weight and from moisture. Coloring should be uniform, without lubrication, smudges, and even more so without unpainted areas. The reverse side of the panel must be uniformly colored and even.

Types of plastic panels

Calculation of the required number of panels

PVC panels go on sale in widths of 10, 25 and 50 cm, lengths from 2.5 to 4 or 6 meters. To accurately calculate the amount of material, you need to pre-select the panels, determine their direction in the room and measure the length of all sides of the sheathed ceiling. For example, the dimensions of the room are 2.5 * 2.7 meters, the panels (0.5 * 3 m) will be laid along the larger wall. That is, their length of 3 meters will just be enough, there will be a small pruning.

Width: 2.5 m / 0.5 m = 5 pieces. Of course, it is unlikely that anyone will want to buy an extra three-meter panel for reinsurance, but at least you need to make sure that the store still has material from this batch (others may differ in color) and in case of damage to the panel, there will be where to buy the same.

Adjusting the size of the plastic panel for the ceiling

PVC profiles and cornices

There are several types of various components, in particular profiles and cornices for mounting PVC in stores, but not all of them may be needed, so you need to familiarize yourself with the main ones in advance and decide which ones are needed and in what quantity.

• Starting profile - fixed around the perimeter of the room and serves to fix the panels and hide their ends.
• An H-shaped profile is needed to join the two ends of the panel if one strip is not enough for the entire length of the room.
• PVC ceiling plinth - in fact, this is the same starting profile, but with a decorative border.
• Universal corner - with its help you can cover any joints. In the installation of the ceiling, it is practically not used, except in multi-level structures.

Types of fasteners for false ceiling

Purchase of material for the crate

For the crate, you will need profile guides (CD) and wall guides (UD), their standard length is 3 or 4 meters. The required length of the wall profiles is equal to the perimeter of the room; if possible, a solid profile is attached along one wall. Wide profile guides are attached in increments of 60 cm. You will also need straight or anchor hangers, quick-mount dowels and flea screws.

Preparatory work

The beauty of suspended ceilings is that the base base does not need to be primed, puttied, and generally specially prepared. Only the old finish is removed, and the surface is recommended to be treated with an antifungal compound. But sometimes they don’t even do that, the old whitewash or paint just hides under the new ceiling.
It is worth considering how high the ceiling will be lowered. The minimum indent is equal to the thickness of the crate, but if spotlights are installed or ventilation is hidden under the ceiling, then they are repelled from their maximum height. It is not recommended to lower the ceiling by more than 40 cm.

Ceiling prepared for installation of a suspended structure

Frame installation

Begin work with markings around the perimeter. A line is drawn on the walls strictly according to the level, and a new ceiling will begin on it. If the walls are tiled, you can draw a line just along the seam between the tiles.

When the markup is done, cut the guide wall profile and drill holes in it in increments of 50 cm. You can also drill directly on the wall if you have an assistant, but if you don’t have one, it will be difficult to make the first pair of fasteners. From the turns of the drill, the profile walks a little and can loosen the previous fastening, this happens especially often in old buildings, where a thick layer of plaster or a ceiling line coincided with the masonry seam.

Installation of the crate under the plastic ceiling

For the installation of guide profiles, it is more convenient to use dowels "quick installation". They are inserted into a drilled hole and clogged with a hammer. Next, measure and cut a wide guide profile. If the bath is perfectly flat, you can cut all the strips at once, but if the walls are at an angle, as is often the case in Khrushchev, it is better to take individual measurements for each profile and cut them off separately.

The profiles are lowered to the required height using straight or anchor hangers in increments of about 60 cm.

Wiring

Scheme: arrangement of electrical wiring

After mounting the frame, wires are brought to the points where the lamps will be and fixed. It’s not worth saving on the “tails”, a long wire can always be cut off, but it is undesirable to build it up, especially in the bathroom. If a chandelier hangs on the ceiling, the structure is reinforced at the place of its installation, an additional suspension is installed, and the profile is pre-placed in such a step that the chandelier is attached to the metal base. If this is not possible, a transverse jumper is attached.

Advice! The performance of the electrical wiring should be checked in advance.

Installation of plastic panels

The starting profile, in which the panels will be fixed, is attached from below to the wall profile with self-tapping screws. It can also be glued directly to the tile with "liquid nails".
With a hacksaw, a jigsaw or a construction knife, cut off the panel of the required length, insert one end of it into the U-shaped plastic guide, slightly bend and lead the other end of the panel into the opposite U-shaped profile. The panel is aligned and brought into the longitudinal starting profile.

Advice! If spotlights will be mounted in the ceiling, it is more convenient to cut holes for them before installing the panel, manually or with a “crown” drill attachment. But in this case, the panel becomes more fragile and may crack if it is excessively deflected.

Fastening locks are located on both sides of the panel. After installing the first panel, the lock on one side of it will be hidden in the starting profile, and on the other, it is screwed to the guide profile with screws with a press washer. The next panel is mounted in the same way.

Scheme: installation of plastic panels

It is cut, the ends are inserted in turn into the profile guides, the canvas is leveled and pressed tightly against the lock of the previous panel until it clicks lightly. There should be no gaps along the entire length between the panels.

The last panel rarely enters its full width, so it is cut with a construction knife. To simplify the installation, it is made somewhat shorter than the distance from one wall to the other, so that it literally goes a few millimeters onto the profile on each side.

First, the panel is placed in one of the corners and from it it is brought into the longitudinal starting profile, when the panel has entered completely, it is leveled and pulled to the lock of the previous panel.

If it sits too tightly and you can’t pull it up with your palm, you can glue a piece of ordinary tape on each side and pull on the free edge of the tape.

Advice! An interesting solution may be to fasten plastic panels diagonally, but this method is rarely used, since it is quite laborious. In addition, you can create multi-level suspended ceilings.

Installation of panels without U-shaped plastic profiles

Installation of plastic panels to the frame

When the walls in the bathroom are even and the frame is properly made, the panels can be screwed directly to the profiles. This method is simpler, especially considering the difficulties with installing the last panel, but no less reliable. The joint between the walls and the ceiling is covered with an ordinary baguette, which is fixed with “liquid nails”.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling in the bathroom: video

Plastic ceiling in the bathroom: photo