What you need to know when installing an air conditioner. Installing a split system: step-by-step instructions for self-assembly. On the wall to the right of the outside

In the hot summer, the room where the air conditioner works becomes a blissful oasis that you don’t want to leave. Realizing all the advantages of cooled air, while the city is melting from the heat, people begin in advance, even in winter, to take care of installing this wonderful device in their home. After reading the forums with reviews, choosing and buying the right model, you are faced with the following installation-related dilemma: do it yourself and for free or call a private master. If you chose the first option, then read the article, where we will show you how to install an air conditioner in an apartment on your own, and also provide photo and video materials as visual instructions.

There are many types of air conditioners for an apartment, the most famous is called a “split system”, the installation of which will be discussed later. It consists of 2 blocks: an internal one - an evaporator, and an external one - a condenser, which are connected thanks to electric cables and 2 copper tubes through which freon flows. A plastic tube branches off from the inside, designed to drain condensate.

Video tutorial where you will learn about the necessary tools and the most common mistakes made during installation:

Step-by-step instruction

First you need to install the outdoor unit. Well, if you have an open balcony in your apartment. This will provide unlimited access to the air conditioner. If you decide to install the air conditioner on a glazed balcony, then the condenser is mounted on the outer wall of the house, in which you first make holes. Anchor bolts and reliable brackets will help to fix the outer part of the system to the surface. To protect the device from precipitation, build a visor over it.

Before you install an air conditioner in your apartment with your own hands, read the following tips:

  • the surface for fastening must be flat and strong;
  • living on the ground floor, mount the unit at a height of at least two meters so that it does not become a target for thieves;
  • when choosing brackets, keep in mind that they must withstand a weight that is 2-3 times the weight of the equipment;
  • living on the upper floors, but not having a balcony (loggia), you will have to use the services of climbers (pictured below) or a car with a special ladder in order to install air conditioning in the apartment from the facade.

Having installed the outdoor unit, we drill a hole in the wall necessary to connect the cables and refrigerant pipes that connect the disparate parts of the split system. Next, a "waterproofing glass" is mounted, where we lay the wires and tubes. The next step is to install the indoor unit of the air conditioner in the apartment on your own. Before you designate the place where you place it, read the following recommendations:

  • the footage between the indoor and outdoor units should be no more than seven to thirty meters (the specific figure depends on the model of the system itself);
  • the body located in the apartment must be located from other things (in relation to furniture) at a distance of not less than three meters;
  • to avoid wind and sickness, refrain from installing air conditioning over the bed and the place where you work, as well as over radiators, heaters, fireplaces, etc.

Classification of indoor units:

  1. Ceiling
  2. floor standing
  3. wall

When installing wall and ceiling air conditioners, we fix sufficiently strong brackets on which we will fix the device. With a floor device, everything is much simpler: it does not need to be fixed at all, but only put in a specially designated place in the apartment.

Important! If the floor unit is not level, then all the drops of condensate will be on the floor. Place it properly right away, because once the air conditioner is installed, the case cannot be moved anywhere!

Next comes the process of gating special holes for wires and tubes that connect the indoor and outdoor units. In many cases, the walls, ceiling, and occasionally the floor are shredded. If this process is difficult for you, then just put the communications in a plastic box that will not disturb the interior of the apartment.

When connecting blocks with wires and tubes, use fittings. Tubes with freon are forbidden to unwind at the joints and bend 2, 3 or more times. Be sure to drill your own line for the drain hose in order to drain condensate from the indoor unit, for example, to the street. Having connected the system, we carry out vacuuming of communications to eliminate unnecessary moisture and air from them. This process is carried out only with the help of specialized equipment. Next, you yourself need to think about a separate power supply for the air conditioner in the apartment. To do this, you need to the device (in strobes), and you need to install a separate machine in the switchboard. Cables are placed in strobes.

Check if you managed to install the air conditioner with your own hands at home. To do this, use a specific test program that is activated when the device is turned on for the first time. A positive result will be when the technique will function well, without vibrating the case.

In this article, we have provided step-by-step instructions, as well as videos and photos that clearly explain how to install an air conditioner in an apartment or office on your own. In general, the installation of such a device is a troublesome and responsible business. If you miss any of the instructions or make a mistake, you can simply lose expensive equipment or ruin repairs that have already been made.

Also read:

Installing an air conditioner in a residential area has its own characteristics. In order for this climate technology to work most efficiently, it is important to perform the installation correctly. Not less important suitable power. The main calculation parameter is room volume. But the side of the world that the windows face also matters. So, if it is south, the room will be a priori warmer than in a similar area, but with windows to the north. Therefore, you should choose a device 30% more powerful. A low-power air conditioner, even with proper installation, will not be able to fully cope with the function assigned to it.

Where to start?

So, there is a suitable air conditioner. What's next?

  • choice of installation time;
  • choice of installation site;
  • choice of installation method.

Most often, split systems are installed in apartments, consisting of an internal (evaporator) and an external (condenser) unit. They are interconnected by a tube in which there are wires and freon. Recently, devices with two indoor units operating independently of each other have become popular - this facilitates the installation of an air conditioning system in adjacent rooms.

The optimal time to install an air conditioner is not spring or summer, but the time of repair.

It is necessary to draw a separate line from the electrical wiring panel for the air conditioner, and if you do this during the repair process, the wires can be successfully disguised. Yes, and preparing a hole for a freon tube is a job, in the literal sense, dusty. Therefore, if there are repairs in the near future, it is better to wait with the installation of the air conditioner.

How to properly install the outdoor unit

The installation of an air conditioner always begins with the installation of the condenser. Based on the weight of the outdoor unit, brackets are selected that can withstand such a load. The brackets must be attached not to the insulation or sheathing of the house, but directly to the wall - a solid foundation.

To protect the device from precipitation, it is recommended to cover it with a visor. This is not necessary, but such a measure to extend the viability of the apparatus. If the air conditioner is located on one of the first two floors, it would not be out of place to make a metal cage-cage for it - this will protect the device from theft.

According to the installation rules for this type of climate technology, the drain pipe from the outdoor unit must be discharged into the sewer.

Placing an outdoor unit under a window

In practice, in our houses, especially multi-storey ones, this is impossible, because the tubes are left to hang freely. But the sound of dripping condensate may not please the neighbors living below. And this is natural - the sound of drops on the windowsill over time only becomes more distracting and annoying. If you want to maintain good relations with your neighbors (as well as your nerves, which can go to find out who is right), you should foresee this moment.

Installing an outdoor air conditioner unit on a balcony

The best way out is to lengthen the drainage tube so that drops fall from it along the wall along a line where there are no window openings or balcony structures. Do not forget about the alternative option - application.

Where is the best place to place the indoor unit

The distance between the blocks is directly proportional to the power loss of the device. Therefore, the shorter the distance, the more efficient the air conditioner works.

It is for this reason that it is preferable to install the indoor unit on the same wall as the outdoor unit, or as close to it as possible.

It is important to remember that air conditioners:

Sometimes the most convenient option seems to be placing the air conditioner above the closet - no one will see it there. But, firstly, it will interfere with the normal operation of the device, and secondly, every time you start the air conditioner, all the dust from the surface will be swept down and people will breathe it. Therefore, this option is not as good as it seems at first glance.

Important so that the indoor unit of the air conditioner can be easily accessed. This will not only provide better performance, but also allow you to clean the device in a timely manner.

Sometimes they try to mark the indoor unit behind curtains or lambrequins - so as not to attract undue attention. Of course, it may not suit the sophisticated interior design, but such disguise prevents productive air cooling.

It is better to spend a little more time choosing an air conditioner, and find a model whose evaporator will be in harmony with the interior.

Protective screen-reflector for the air conditioner - prevents direct contact with cold air on a person

Modern manufacturers offer various options - from laconic classics to very bold decisions, up to, because the search is sure to be crowned with success.

How to install the indoor unit

Actually, the principle of its installation is similar to the principle of installation of an external unit. First, a suitable place is selected, then brackets are attached to the wall, and the evaporator itself is installed on them. The only difference is that before installing the indoor unit, a hole for the freon tube is prepared.

After that, the indoor and outdoor units are connected and the air conditioner is connected to the network. The fewer bends in the tube, the more efficiently the air is removed, which means that the device works more productively.

Advice. At the end of the installation, be sure to check the air conditioner for operability.

For this, there are special test programs that allow you to determine whether the system is installed correctly.

Should I do the installation myself?

The principle of installing an air conditioner is generally simple, but the details are very important. So, it is necessary that both blocks are installed evenly - without distortions. Otherwise, condensation may accumulate and, as a result, an early breakdown of the device.

In addition, some companies provide a wider warranty if the installation is done by their qualified specialist, which is quite understandable: this dismisses all doubts about improper installation as a probable cause of unit failure. However, for any air conditioner in the instructions there is a detailed description of how exactly this device should be installed. Therefore, if there is an irresistible desire to do the work on your own, this is quite real.

True, it may be difficult to find a tool in order to install the brackets and drill a hole for the freon tube. And on the floors above the first one, it is not so easy to install an outdoor unit: insurance is required. Specialists will have no problems with this - all the equipment is included in the kit, they know how to use it, they do it quickly and efficiently.

- it's real, but entrusting the installation to specialists is more efficient.

A properly installed air conditioner does not emit extraneous sounds. It requires only preventive cleaning once or twice a year - in spring or spring and autumn, depending on the intensity of use, as well as refilling with freon once every two years.

For many, air conditioning at home has become simply indispensable. It creates a comfortable microclimate in the room when it is hot outside. But this is only possible if it is installed correctly.

Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem of proper installation. Installation determines the quality and service life of the air conditioner by 90%. If errors are made during installation, then it is very difficult to correct them later.

Solution: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, no debris, no dust, no boxes should remain in the room. The word "air conditioner" has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which in English means “air condition”. The air conditioner is used to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.

Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - a split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a "regular" air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window”, which is cut into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the house's general air conditioning system, if any (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and drives air throughout the house). And it differs from the "ordinary" air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.

But let's agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word “air conditioner”, which is more familiar to our ears.

First - repair, then - split

So, a split system (from the English word split - “split, split”) consists of two separate blocks: an internal (evaporator) and an external or external (condenser). The blocks are interconnected by electrical wires and two copper tubes through which the refrigerant (freon) flows. A plastic thin tube (drainage) also extends outward from the indoor unit - to remove condensed moisture. Ideally, it should be connected to a drain (sewer) pipe or to a special reservoir, but often it is simply taken out into the street, and then drops of water fall on the heads of passers-by (for how to properly drain, see below).

The principle of operation of the split system is as follows. If the room needs to be cooled, then from the heat exchanger of the external unit, freon enters the heat exchanger of the indoor unit through one copper tube. It is blown by a fan, as a result of which cold air comes out of the indoor unit. If the air in the room needs to be heated, then with the help of a heat pump, the external condenser turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor, which is installed in the outdoor unit. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.

Split system:
1 - outdoor (external) block
2 - indoor wall unit

The indoor unit operates almost silently (for Daikin models, the noise level of some indoor units is 28 - 31 dB, and for Mitsubishi, when the engine is turned on at the lowest speed, it is 26 dB; a flying butterfly creates the same noise level). But the fan and compressor of an external device can “buzz” and louder.

According to the mounting method, indoor units are wall-mounted and floor-ceiling (floor-ceiling are called so because they can be attached to both the ceiling and the floor). There are also cassette and multi-zone indoor units, but we will talk about them next time.

In apartments, wall-mounted indoor units are most often installed. With the help of movable shutters of the wall unit, you can change the direction of the air flow. But the power of wall blocks is specially limited - otherwise a strong stream of cold air will simply “blow off” everything in its path. But if a room (for example, in an office) requires a more powerful air conditioner, a floor-to-ceiling unit is installed. It will allow you to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure an even distribution of temperature in the room.

Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more efficient to install a floor-to-ceiling air conditioner!

Split systems differ in power (cooling capacity) and design. The choice of design is at the discretion of the buyer. But about the power, you must definitely consult with a specialist. In doing so, you need to know:

1. The area (volume) of your premises.
2. Dimensions of the window, the direction of the world to which it goes.
3. The presence (absence) of blinds on the windows.
4. The number of constantly working equipment that generates heat (TV, computer, etc.).
5. The number of radiators in the rooms.
6. The number of people who are constantly in the room.
7. Is there forced ventilation?

Another tip: if the company where you want to buy an air conditioner didn’t ask you anything about it, then it’s better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are offered a "typical not that." In reputable companies, before selling the air conditioner, the consultant, as a rule, travels to the place of the intended installation of the device, takes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all this data is entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. So, for example, they work in the Aeroprof company specializing in Carrier air conditioners (USA), in the Meteomarket company (Daikin air conditioners) and the KlimatSS company (Hitachi air conditioners) ).

This is how the distribution of air flows from a wall-mounted indoor unit looks like

What else do you need to know? Experts advise INSTALLING A SPLIT SYSTEM BEFORE or DURING REPAIR, and not after all repairs have already been completed. Then you do not have to gouge and drill freshly painted and leveled walls to lay the electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fixing the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications in external boxes, but this will not decorate the interior.

Moreover, installation work in a freshly renovated apartment is much more expensive, especially after renovation.

Now about other possible "ambushes". Very often mistakes begin even when buying an air conditioner. Wanting to save money, we go to the nearest store (or even to the market) and buy an air conditioner. So what? And that's all: we are one on one with him. At best, after carefully reading the instructions, we undertake to install it.

Meanwhile, installing a split system in an apartment is not at all the same as installing a refrigerator or a TV: they say, they brought it home, put it in the chosen place, turned it on and it works! With air conditioning, such a room will not work. Air conditioning requires proper installation. This is exactly the case when it is impossible to save on installation. The better it is installed, the longer it will last. It is no coincidence that installation work is 18-30% of the cost of the unit.

I remember how one experienced and restrained-looking installer, answering my completely innocent question: where to start installing the air conditioner, suddenly got excited and yelled: “People! You are all smart! Each air conditioner is given an instruction in Russian, in which both installation and operating rules are described “for fools”, point by point. Read it, damn it, before sticking your hands in! Better yet, call the experts. And, alas, he is right.

Installation: where to start?

Split system installation diagram

1. Communications (in the strobe)
2. Drainage (in the gate)
3. Sewerage
4. Siphon
5. Electrical wiring - to the shield (in the strobe)
6. Hole in the wall, punched with an inclination of 1–3°

First stage: separate electrical wiring is carried out

To any, even a low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner, it is necessary to carry out a separate electrical wiring and put a separate machine in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, catch fire. If, however, a separate wiring for the air conditioner is laid by specialist installers, the possibility of fire is reduced to almost zero.

Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed for the loads from the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember the case when the owner of the apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out plugs.

Second stage: installation of the outdoor unit

To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, on which they then install the outdoor unit.

If you put it on an open balcony, then there is no problem: they attached it with bolts, the breeze blows it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the unit to the wall, then you can not do without strong brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the "outdoor" is mounted from a machine equipped with a sliding ladder. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes equipment is required in the form of a car with a fire escape-boom, and a climber.

External and internal (wall) units of the split-system "Kerrier"

If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3-20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).

If your apartment is located on the ground floor, I strongly recommend hanging the outdoor unit above 1.8–2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. And they can steal it. At one of the firms we were told a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. Managers were surprised: "Why don't you want a whole split system." - “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, under the window hung. Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, it is necessary to make a metal visor above it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.

In general, installing an outdoor unit is a responsible matter. If it is loosely fastened, it can fall down ... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will be responsible.

What can not be done with the outdoor (outdoor) unit?

There are space limitations for installing the outdoor unit:

1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
2. Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to a refrigerant leak). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.

Third stage: installation of the indoor unit

Air conditioner control panel

Installers fasten special brackets to the wall (if the unit is wall-mounted) or ceiling (if the unit is ceiling-mounted) with screws and install blocks on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening (does the structure stagger? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later, the whole structure may simply collapse on your head.

But for the floor unit, special fasteners are not required. He, as they say, "stands on foot." You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, keep in mind that the unit does not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stand away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all the communications, it is no longer possible to move it from place to place.

So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:

1. ... above a heat source (for example, above a battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work for cooling “until the pulse is lost” and will fail very quickly. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the chamber, but the whole room. It will "work" and fail by the end of the day. The same will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat from the room battery may deform the plastic housing of the unit.
2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations are constantly working (for example, a drill, a drilling machine). High-frequency vibrations can "knock down" the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
3. ... directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse, getting pneumonia.
4. …where air circulation will be difficult, such as behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back with the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate is set and turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly “got confused in the curtains” and turned off before it had time to bring the room temperature to the set one. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
5. ... with a skew - then water (condensate) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be discharged through a drainage pipe into a special reservoir (see our certificate of drainage). Fourth stage: chasing walls or floors

In order to connect the electrical wires and freon tubes between the air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or on the ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “probe the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “stroke”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.

Don't want to ditch? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are removed under the plinth). But before that, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for refrigerant) and "ends" of electrical wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this with the connection fittings. And in a pre-punched hole in the outer wall, they laid a “waterproof glass” with a connecting hose.

Installers come to the site with all the necessary equipment, communications are laid in the strobe, the drainage tube is placed in the strobe at a slope

After that, they must carry out the so-called evacuation of communications, and be sure to do so for 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation is done with the help of special equipment.

And keep in mind - for the drainage tube, as a rule, they make a separate hidden line (in the wall or under the floor).

Fifth stage: checking the operation of the system using a special program

At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by installing it on the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then it is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we advise you to independently conduct such a check of the system operation every year (using the same test program).

Sixth stage: garbage collection

I must warn you: laying the line and other installation procedures are dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will come with special tools (including a metal detector to examine the walls for fittings and hidden communications).

In addition, installers must have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning machines. With their help, after the work is completed, they must independently remove all garbage. If the installers are trying to dodge the "dirty" work, strictly demand - "cleaning the territory" is included in the payment for the installation of the air conditioner. In addition, you can conclude an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of a split system. Then you don't have to, risking your life, leaning out of the window to the waist, clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers with your own money. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it's worth it. By the way, we hasten to inform you of a pleasant detail: Meteomarket, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year service contract expires. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted good work. By the way, in the notorious building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been standing since the time of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.

The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period of the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned immediately) breaks down. Of course, you can vacuum it if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.

At temperatures below -15 ° C, the air conditioner may refuse to work "for heat", and then low-temperature equipment (a heat pump, a compressor heater and even a drain pipe heater) will be needed. By the way, some models are already equipped with these devices (see table).

What did the installers say?

Experienced installers do not advise buying air conditioners "from whomever you have", on the market or from hands.

“How many times it happened, such illiterate buffoons will carry out the installation, and then people call us, begging for help,” one experienced installer from a very reputable company told me. - It used to be that such unfortunate installers would bring with them a copper pipe for freon, and it had no plugs. If there are no plugs, then moist air will get inside. And humidity is unacceptable for the air conditioner: when combined with the insides of the entire system, it forms an acid that corrodes the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving properly for many years, such an air conditioner is, of course, sent to a landfill in three years.

The installers told me that sometimes they come across especially stubborn customers, they say, “I'm crying, do as I say!”. How to be? Here was a case recently. The client ordered to install the outdoor unit not from the side of the street, but inside the apartment, moreover, in the children's room. He motivated this by a strange statement that his children, they say, will live in the country for another two months. He ignored all the persuasion and arguments of the installers that the outdoor unit should not be placed indoors, and even more so in a residential area. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything on a new one.

Or here's the case. The client wanted the indoor unit to blow directly onto the bed and the air temperature to be 18°C. They tried to prove to him that it would be cold, in addition, a directed stream of cold air could cause a cold. "Not! I won't catch a cold! Bet!” Nothing to do, set. The next day they came to install the air conditioner in another room, they see, and the temperature on that, yesterday's split, is set to 22 ° C.

– What is it? they ask.

- It's true, guys, I froze at night.

In general, with the correct operation of the air conditioner, a person should not feel that something is cooling or heating him. Just comfortable - that's all! Once a friend called the company and asked to come. He says: “I didn’t buy it from you, though.” Okay, let's go. They opened the block, and there was a dead rat.

That's it. Hence the conclusion - it is not enough to buy and install a split system. The main thing is that professionals do it for you.

The procedure for installing a split system

1. Wiring a separate electrical wiring for the air conditioner and installing a separate "machine" in the switchboard.

2. Installation of the outdoor (outdoor) unit:

  • choosing a place for its installation (not lower than 1.8–2 meters above the ground, otherwise they can be stolen - there have been cases);
  • installation of supporting brackets (anchor bolts);
  • strengthening the outdoor unit on the brackets;
  • drilling a hole with a diameter of 50–60 cm in the outer wall for connecting communications (they will connect the external and internal blocks of the split system);
  • inserting a “waterproof glass” into the hole (the material from which the “glass” is made is the know-how of installers); laying in the "glass" of connecting communications.
  • 3. Installation of the indoor unit:

  • choice of location (the horizontal distance between the indoor and outdoor units should not exceed more than 7-30 meters - depending on the brand of the system);
  • installation of supporting brackets;
  • strengthening the indoor unit on the brackets.
  • 4. System wiring connection:

  • chasing a wall or floor (in order to hide communications or laying wires in a plastic case);
  • connection of wires (copper for refrigerant and electrical) coming from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit using connecting fittings;
  • carrying out the vacuum procedure (within 50 minutes, to remove air and moisture from communications using special equipment).
  • 5. Testing the system:

  • checking the operation of the system using a special program.
  • 6. Cleaning of the premises (by the installers).

    How should proper drainage be arranged?

    To do this, installers must:

    1. Proshtrobit highway.
    2. Shut off the water in the apartment.
    3. Drill a hole in the sewer pipe.
    4. Firmly insert a drain plastic tube with a siphon into the hole. A layer of water in the siphon will delay the smell coming from the sewer.

    Attention! The drainage tube, through which the accumulated moisture is removed, must necessarily go at an inclination of 5–10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If for some reason the tilt cannot be done, you must install a special pump for “forced suction of moisture”. But! This pump is not included and must be purchased separately. The purchase will cost 70 - 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.

    The main problems that arise during the operation of the air conditioner

    Problem 1: The air conditioner blows directly on you, creating a drafty feeling.

    Solution: It is necessary to enable the auto-oscillation function of the horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal shutters in a better position. If this does not work, you need to turn the air flow to the left or right using the vertical air flaps. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be done using the remote control.

    Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not provide the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it works all the time.

    Solution: In this case, you should check if the filters are clogged, if the windows and doors are closed, if additional heating devices (boilers or toasters) are working in the room. It can be recommended to hang thick white blinds on the windows, which reflect heat and light well, thus reducing the heat gain through the windows by almost half. If this does not help, the model must be replaced with a more powerful one.

    Problem 3: Water is dripping from the indoor unit of the split system.

    Solution: Apparently, the drain pipe is clogged. Most often, this situation occurs when an air conditioner with a drainage pipeline brought outside is turned on for cooling at sub-zero temperatures. In this case, the condensate may turn into an ice plug. To avoid this, it is necessary to heat the drainage pipeline to +5 °C using a special cable. If an ice plug nevertheless arose, then it is worth waiting for a thaw, and until that moment do not turn on the system for cooling.

    Problem 4: Weakened airflow.

    Solution: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or washed with a soft sponge in warm water. It is not recommended to operate the air conditioner without a filter, as it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When the latter becomes dusty, the efficiency of the air conditioner decreases.

    Problem 5: Icing of the outdoor unit during the operation of the air conditioner for heating in conditions of small negative temperatures and high humidity.

    Solution: If the air conditioner is not equipped with an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the outdoor unit begins to give off heat to the street, heats up and gradually thaws.

    Problem 6: Premature failure of the air conditioner.

    Solution: To avoid this, do not operate it at temperatures below -10-15°C. At lower temperatures, the oil in the compressor thickens, and its wear increases many times over. There are various rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But in the press center of the capital's SES, we were told that there is nothing to be afraid of: with the timely replacement of filters and subject to the operating rules, the split system does not hide any harm. At least, there were no complaints to the sanitary and epidemiological supervision.

    In the hot summer, people begin to understand what they lack in home improvement.
    Air conditioning allows:

    • get rid of problems such as heat and stuffiness;
    • maintain the desired level of temperature in the room, as comfortable as possible for humans and household appliances.

    Unlike fans, causing drafts and leading to colds, modern air conditioners maintain a predetermined temperature regime in automatic mode without problematic movements of air flows.

    According to their design, household appliances are divided into two main classes:

    • monoblock;
    • multiblock devices.

    Monoblock plants consist of one working unit and are divided into the following main types:

    • Window. Such devices must be installed in a window opening. Modern systems are produced with a power of 1.5-6 kW, may have an additional air heating system, automatic temperature control and remote control. The price of this air conditioner from 12000 rubles and higher, depending on the configuration.

    • Monoblock air conditioner mobile type designed for floor installation and can move around the apartment. He does not require special installation; the only condition is that the air outlet hose must be brought out. The hose has a diameter of up to 15 cm and a length of up to 2 m, which limits movement in the distance to the window.

    • rooftop devices, which are rarely used as domestic installations.

    Multi-block structures are represented by split systems of various installations with two or more blocks. They have an outdoor unit containing a compressor and are installed outside the room, and one or more indoor units for air distribution.

    • The most common type of split system is the wall-mounted version of the indoor unit. It connects electrically and hydraulically to the outdoor unit and is fixed to the wall anywhere in the room. Such devices are produced with a power of 2-7 kW and are able to cool a room ranging from 12 to 75 square meters. m. The distance between the elements (pipeline length) is selected up to 7 m.

    • Unlike a simple split, which provides for 1 indoor unit, the multi-split system is based on the installation of 2 to 5 indoor devices, which can have a different design and power (within 2-5 kW). Such a system allows you to distribute air conditioning throughout the apartment, without cluttering the outer surface of the wall with additional blocks.

    Air conditioner power calculation

    The choice of air conditioner power. This important parameter of the device depends on the volume of the room.

    • S- the area of ​​the room;
    • H- ceiling height;
    • q- the heat transfer coefficient of the walls (for the sunny side q=40, for the shady side - q=30) with the addition of 10% for the heat generated by people and household appliances (except for the kitchen).

    For example, for a room with an area of ​​​​30 square meters, a height of 2.5 m, facing the sunny side of the house, the power should be 30 x 2.5 x 40 x 1.1 \u003d 3300 watts. Standard power range of split systems: 2; 2.6; 3.5; 5.3 and 7 kW. Consequently, you will have to choose an air conditioner with a capacity of 3.5 kW.

    How to choose the right air conditioner

    With the onset of the summer season, many are wondering: which air conditioner to choose? When selecting, in addition to power, We recommend that you pay attention to the following characteristics:

    • electricity consumption, the length of the freon line;
    • weight;
    • drainage features, design;
    • important - the presence of automatic temperature control, remote control, the presence of fittings for fastening;
    • and, of course, the price of the device.

    Watch our video on how to choose the right air conditioner:

    The principle of operation of the air conditioner

    All household split systems have a similar operating principle:

    • The air is cooled by coolant(freon) at the moment of transformation into gas in the evaporator chamber takes in a lot of heat.
    • Vacuum pump gaseous freon is pumped out of the chamber and enters the condensation chamber, where again turns into a liquid.
    • Then a new cycle begins, and so it repeats constantly. It should also be taken into account that in the evaporation chamber when freon evaporates, water condensate is formed, accumulating at the bottom of the chamber and requiring withdrawal (drainage).

    A feature of the split system is remote separation of the location of the condensation chamber, compressor and vacuum pump, and the evaporation chamber.
    Due to the fact that all elements that emit noise (compressor, pump) are located in the outdoor unit and taken out of the room, it is ensured silent operation.
    Freon is distilled through annealed copper tubes through the indoor unit, where the evaporation chamber is located and the air is cooled.

    The energy consumption of the system can be reduced by the following measures:

    • the minimum length of the freon line;
    • good drainage of the evaporation chamber;
    • exclusion of heating of the outdoor unit under the influence of direct sunlight.

    Energy consumption is reduced when the outdoor unit is lower than the indoor unit, just as when heated, any liquid itself rushes up, which means that it does not have to be promoted artificially.

    The tightness of the entire system is important - any microscopic defects can lead to freon volatilization.

    Installing an air conditioner and a split system with your own hands

    Installing a split air conditioner includes the following main steps:

    1. Preparatory work.
    2. Installation of outdoor and indoor units.
    3. Freon piping.
    4. Installation of a drainage system.
    5. Installation of the electrical circuit.
    6. Filling refrigerant and sealing the system.
    7. Test and launch.

    For mounting do-it-yourself air conditioner, you must prepare the following tool in advance:

    • perforator, electric drill and screwdriver;
    • rolling set;
    • vacuum pump and gauge manifold;
    • pipe processing tool - pipe cutter, scraper, reamer, pipe bender;
    • Screwdriver Set;
    • a set of socket and wrench keys;
    • Adjustable wrench;
    • tester;
    • level and plumb;
    • Bulgarian.

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    When installing the device with your own hands, you will need the following mounting material and equipment:

    • for freon route: copper tube (two sizes); return nuts for tubes (two sizes); material for thermal insulation of the track;
    • for electrical installation: cable, circuit breaker at least 25A, connecting (terminal) block, RCD, PVC electrical tape, corrugated pipe for cable;
    • for the drainage system: hose for outdoor and indoor units, fittings for connection to the sewer system and connection;
    • for fastening: brackets for the outdoor unit, mounting plate for the indoor unit, anchor bolts, dowels and screws, rope (cable) to hold the outdoor unit during installation;
    • for filling and sealing: freon bottle, silicone sealant;
    • auxiliary elements: plastic boxes for pipes and drainage (60-100 mm) and cable (20-30 mm), clamps, pipeline fasteners, screws, dowels.

    Preparatory work

    The preparatory phase includes a number activities without which you can not start work:

    1. preparation of the mounting kit;
    2. studying instructions;
    3. checking the availability of all details;
    4. determination of the place of attachment of blocks;
    5. route marking; clarification of the possibility of the power grid.

    Installation work must begin by reading the instructions by use. Without instructions, where the specified parameters of the device are given, quality installation is not possible. If the instruction is lost, then you should find an air conditioner similar in model (company office, service centers, Internet).

    The instructions specify the following parameters:

    • operating current;
    • permissible length and diameter of the pipeline;
    • drainage requirements specific installation requirements;
    • type of refrigerant and its working pressure;
    • mass of blocks.

    Block placement

    When determining the place where it is necessary to install an air conditioner in an apartment, certain rules must be followed.

    • The internal one is installed close to the ceiling, but not closer than 15 cm.
    • There must be a free gap of at least 10 cm around the block.
    • During installation, the unit should be hung obliquely at an angle of up to 5 degrees.
    • The location of the element should allow free supply of pipes and cables, and be away from heat sources.
    • The distance to the block from the window should not exceed the maximum dimensions set for the length of the freon route.
    • The outdoor unit is installed on the outer side of the wall below the indoor unit, but no more than 3 m.
    • Its location must be chosen so that the installation is easy to carry out from the window opening.
    • The length of the pipes from the block to the entrance to the room should not exceed 1 m.
    • During installation, the outer element is moved away from the wall by 10 cm. It is forbidden to install the unit near the gas pipeline.

    Planned block installation sites are marked with chalk or a marker with mounting brackets. Then between them piping route is marked for freon and power cable. noted mounting location of electrical distribution box. Drainage systems are being marked s and diverting it into the sewer.

    Wiring and laying a freon route

    Installation of the system consists in fixing the blocks, laying and fixing the pipeline, electrical wiring and drainage system.

    The pipeline and cable along the wall can be laid in three ways:

    • penalty;
    • plastic box;
    • corrugated hose.

    Penalties allow you to make a hidden route, but require a lot of time and effort. For laying all highways in concrete, a standard channel size 40 x 60 mm.

    Chasing is carried out using a grinder, puncher or wall chaser. The easiest and most high-quality way is to use a wall chaser, which allows you to make a channel in one pass, but the cost of such a power tool is high. More a common method is to cut 2 longitudinal slots with a grinder followed by sampling of concrete between the slots with a perforator.

    An easier laying method is a plastic hose or box. They are attached to the wall with dowels, for which holes with a diameter of about 8 mm are drilled in the marked places. To draw a route through a wall, it breaks through hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm using a perforator.

    Installation of the drainage system

    Proper installation - draining the air conditioner into the sewer, but this is realized only with a close location of sewer pipes. Most often, the drainage hoses are simply brought out (the volume of condensate is small and is released in the form of drops). A feature of laying drainage is the need to ensure the self-flow of water, i.e. the hose should be lowered by 3 cm for every 1 m of gasket length.

    Electrical connection

    The cable for power supply of the units is placed in a corrugated hose or a stub pierced in the wall. It is pulled through the wall into the same hole as the tubes. Along the outer wall and in the wall hole wiring is located in the corrugation. The channel for laying inside the wall has dimensions of at least 10 x 10 mm.

    The outlet of the electrical circuit of the air conditioner from the main electrical network is carried out in the nearest junction box, if the section of the supply wires allows. Most often, necessary into an existing channel extend additional cable(wire) of the desired section. A terminal block is installed in the junction box, in which the connection is made.

    Introductory RCD is installed on the electrical panel with a circuit breaker for a current of at least 25 A.

    The figure shows the electrical connection diagram of the air conditioner:

    Split system installation

    The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets, the dimensions of which must take into account the weight of the device, as well as weather factors (snow, icing, wind). The brackets are fastened with anchor bolts, and the holes in the wall for them are punched with a perforator. Usually brackets are included. It is recommended to install a canopy over the outdoor unit.

    To install the indoor unit pre-on wall fixed with dowels mounting plate included with the air conditioner. Holes for dowels are drilled with an electric drill or punched with a puncher. The block itself, according to the installation technology, is installed with an inclination at an angle of 3 to 5 degrees to direct the cool air down.

    When laying copper pipes, special attention should be paid to their bending. To avoid deformations, bending should be carried out using a special device - a pipe bender. The permissible bending diameter is 20 cm. The tube must be cut with a pipe cutter, and the cut end must be processed with a scraper.

    A heat-insulating hose made of polyurethane foam is put on the pipes(flex). Threaded flanges (back nuts) are installed on the ends of the tubes, and the end is rolled with a reamer. The flanges are installed on the fittings of the blocks and tightened, but so as not to deform the soft copper base of the tube.

    Special attention - the thread of the flanges must be directed towards the end, and when fastening the cold outlet of one unit must not be connected to the hot outlet of another.

    Charging refrigerant and completing the installation

    The final stage of installation of the air conditioner includes filling the system with refrigerant, sealing and testing.

    After the installation is completed, the power supply is connected and the system is charged with freon.

    • air is pumped out using a vacuum pump;
    • then the system is filled with freon from a cylinder, where it is under pressure.

    The tightness of the structure is controlled by a manometric manifold.

    If the collector shows no pressure increase within 60 minutes, then the tightness is considered normal; otherwise, the sealing of the joints should be checked. The easiest way to check is soap suds. The broken joints are sealed by applying silicone sealant.

    Testing is carried out when turned on in different modes. Switching on is done using an automatic switch, and the test mode is set on the air conditioner.

    To learn how to install the air conditioner yourself, see the video:

    Rules for the use of air conditioners

    When using the air conditioner in everyday life you should follow some rules:

    • it is impossible to direct a strong stream directly at a person, so as not to cause a cold;
    • it is not recommended to allow a temperature difference between adjacent rooms of more than 10 degrees;
    • the optimum temperature is recommended - 20-22 degrees;
    • you should periodically turn off the device and ventilate the room to restore the ozone content;
    • it is recommended to apply;
    • it is necessary to carry out preventive measures - replacing filters, adding freon, cleaning the system.

    It is forbidden to turn on a faulty air conditioner: sparking in places of electrical contact, clicking inside, cable heating, refrigerant leakage.

    air conditioner installation cost

    Installing an air conditioner with your own hands requires certain costs - the purchase of fasteners, refrigerant, auxiliary materials. In general, all costs should not exceed 1000 rubles.

    Installing an air conditioner by a specialist can be produced without spending your own time and effort, but will require at the lowest prices from 6000 rubles. By time installation of a split system will take no more than 8 hours with the right tools and materials.

    Installing an air conditioner with your own hands involves performing a number of works, including choosing a kit for installation, a place for equipment, taking into account all the rules, as well as directly installing the indoor and outdoor units. Split system is the most common version of this technique, as it has fewer drawbacks along with a fairly high efficiency.

    Device location rules

    Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner will not affect performance if you follow the instructions supplied with such equipment (if a new device is purchased). Often, the indoor unit is installed at a considerable distance from the ceiling level. This option is quite acceptable, it is much more important to observe the minimum size between the device and the ceiling, which is 10 cm.

    The installation height of the air conditioner is also determined on the basis of convenience and safety, since constant exposure to a direct stream of cool air from the indoor unit can cause frequent illnesses. Given the fact that a split system requires air circulation, it is important to choose an area within a radius of 2 m where there will be free space.

    Installing an air conditioner yourself also involves installing an outdoor unit. At this stage, a number of work to be done will depend on where the equipment is installed. If we are talking about a private house or the first floors of multi-storey buildings, then there is an opportunity to fix the block on our own. The installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on the upper floors must be carried out without fail by high-altitude installers. If there is a balcony, then you don’t have to call the masters.

    The best location for the outdoor unit is under the window or at the level of its middle. At the same time, it will be convenient to carry out installation, it will also simplify the process of further maintenance of equipment.

    The rules for installing air conditioners also include the calculation of the length of the tracks. In order to avoid further inconvenience associated with refueling the device, it is necessary to position both blocks in such a way that the length of the route that connects them does not exceed 6 m. The minimum allowable size is 1.5 m. at a rough calculation, it turned out that the length of the route exceeds the maximum value, it is necessary to re-plan the equipment attachment points and achieve an acceptable route length.

    Independent installation of an air conditioner is sometimes fraught with a number of errors, among which the most common is non-compliance with the minimum value of the route length. If the outdoor and indoor units are supposed to be mounted in close proximity to each other (that is, on both sides of the building's load-bearing wall), then it is important to leave a margin, the so-called loop. This will smooth out the vibration interference that occurs during the operation of the equipment, and also somewhat reduce the noise effect.

    If you ignore the rules for installing an air conditioner in an apartment, given the relatively small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, the operation of the equipment can cause poor sleep for the household. In the case where the indoor and outdoor units are mounted at some distance from each other, there is no need for a loop.

    Tool, accessories for device installation

    Equipment for the installation of air conditioners includes a number of specialized equipment that allows you to easily equip the units with the necessary components for full-fledged work. So, a pipe bender and a pipe cutter may be required - the devices allow you to change the configuration of the pipe without collateral damage and without forming chips, since there is a risk of it getting into the filter system. The manometric station allows you to control the level of pressure of the refrigerant. Installation and installation of air conditioners includes the need to control the tightness of the system before filling with freon, for this a vacuum gauge is used.

    After the refrigerant has been charged, a leak test should be performed, for this a leak detector is activated. Additionally, if necessary, other equipment can be used, for example, a vacuum pump. Allows you to perform preventive and repair work during the maintenance of equipment. The tool for installing air conditioners includes an electric drill, a hammer drill, drills for making holes in concrete walls, and a wall chaser may also be required if you need to hide connecting routes. To maintain a strictly horizontal position of the equipment, it is imperative to use the building level.

    Doing the installation yourself, you need to purchase a kit for installing the air conditioner. Today there are ready-made kits that include all the necessary parts and elements for a complete connection of blocks and setting up their work without losing the efficiency of the system. As a rule, it includes connecting nuts of different sizes, heat-insulating material and copper pipes, a hose that performs the function of drainage, as well as two brackets for mounting the outdoor unit. The length of pipes and drainage is selected taking into account the configuration of the room, that is, you can choose a package that suits the individual requirements of housing.

    All consumables for the installation of air conditioners are selected based on the model of equipment. You should also not save on the quality of connecting pipes, thermal insulation, fasteners and freon, since the duration of the air conditioning system and the absence of the need for repairs, which may entail unnecessary costs, directly depend on this.

    Incorrect operation of the equipment, for example, running the system completely without refrigerant in it, will lead to compressor failure in a very short time, and the replacement of this unit can cost more than two-thirds of the total cost of the entire system.

    Installing and maintaining air conditioners, subject to regularity, will help to avoid such consequences, you only need to periodically clean the system and monitor the level of freon in it.

    Mounting Features

    The air conditioner usually comes with a mounting plate, which is necessary for attaching the indoor unit of the device. The air conditioner installation scheme involves drawing up a small project that determines the exact location and height of the installation of the indoor and outdoor units, the length and path of the connecting route.

    In this case, it is important to follow the sequence of actions, for which an instruction for installing an air conditioner has been created:

    1. First of all, the panel is mounted on the wall in a certain place, as well as at the appropriate level. Such nuances are determined at the design stage. The mounting plate is installed using the building level, which will allow you to get a strictly horizontal line. Mounting points are marked with a pen / marker so as not to lose sight of the exact center distances.
    2. Then a hole of sufficient size must be drilled in the wall for the tracks to pass through it. If there is no appropriate equipment at hand, you can try to bring the connecting pipes through the window opening by drilling holes in the frame.
    3. Installation and repair of air conditioners are directly related: the more accurately and correctly all the work is done, the less often you will have to call the master to adjust and repair the equipment. Therefore, you need to take into account even such nuances as the slope of the drainage hole, which will allow you to easily remove accumulated moisture.
    4. Installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner requires special care due to its heavy weight. Brackets are attached to the wall according to the size of the device. It is important that the thickness of the metal of these elements is sufficient to withstand such a load. All work that needs to be performed on floors above the second is carried out only by high-altitude installers.

    Next, it remains to expand the pipes and fix the ends of the routes to each of the blocks. It should be noted that when drilling a hole in the wall for laying pipes, the minimum diameter is 5 cm. If the routes pass through the window frame, then a separate hole is drilled for each pipe. Thus, the installation of household air conditioners includes several basic steps and does not require significant financial investments if you know how to use the tool.