Detailed instructions for the production of works on waterproofing the walls of the bathroom with various materials. We make bathroom waterproofing: what is better to use under tiles Waterproofing the joint of the floor and walls in the bathroom

Water is the basis of life and a tool of destruction that can gradually render steel, wood, and reinforced concrete unusable. Its presence gives civilized conditions to a person and creates a favorable environment for the flourishing of microorganisms that turn building materials into crumbs. Leaving the shores of bathtubs and sinks with forgotten plugs or clogged pipes, water spoils the finish, property and relationships with neighbors. But you can't live without it. You just need to try to protect yourself from her negative surprises. Why is the safety waterproofing of the floor in the bathroom carried out, for the implementation of which there are many methods and materials.

The best way to protect the floor from water

Numerous methods of floor waterproofing have a common goal - the creation of a continuous coating, shaped like a pallet with 10-20 cm sides on the walls. A kind of container made by this method will collect condensate flowing down the walls in streams, spilled and splashed water. A monolithic waterproofing layer will not let moisture into the ceiling, prevent the destruction of the base. At the same time, it will get rid of rot, the spread of fungi and harmful odors emitted by these unpleasant representatives of the biosphere.

The goal is one, but there are many ways to achieve it. In fact, choosing the best option without knowing the specific technical conditions is not realistic. The choice of the most suitable waterproofing, the type of which determines the technology of its construction, depends on:

on the state of the processed rough surface;
from the materials from which the floors are made;
from the terms allotted for the complete arrangement of the floor;
from the number of storeys;
from the ability to reduce the height of ceilings and from a number of nuances, which can only be revealed while being at the facility.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe room, the complexity of its configuration, the presence of a building hair dryer or burner and the ability to use them can influence the choice. It is impossible to ignore such significant arguments as the cost of the material and the complexity of execution.

It is highly doubtful that any technology meets all the conditions presented, but after a careful assessment of the pros and cons, the best method can still be selected.

Waterproofing methods and materials for its implementation

You can protect floors from water and yourself from expensive repairs by laying roofing material, backfilling a mixture of soil enriched with liquid glass and betonite. True, due to the high cost, toxic smell, or because of too much layer thickness, these methods are rarely used.

The floor in the bathroom is waterproofed mainly by two methods:

by applying a water-repellent mixture that forms an impermeable membrane;
by gluing strips of roll material that prevents the penetration of moisture.

In the first case, waterproofing is applied by coating, hence the name of the family "coating" materials. The latter, according to the relevant technology, are called "pasting". Bitumen necessarily appears in the composition of both varieties, the toxic properties of which are minimized due to the introduction of polymers.

Features of coating materials

The progenitors of insulating coatings were oils and animal fat. Now materials for coating waterproofing are produced in the format of dry compositions, mastics and pastes with a different set of components. Before use, the dry mixture will need to be mixed with water or a polymer emulsion, as indicated in the instructions on the package. Buyers of paste-like and liquid waterproofing of the floor in the bathroom will not be disturbed by the preparation process, since the mixture hermetically sealed in euro-cans is fully prepared for application.

A paste-like or liquid mixture, depending on the consistency, is applied:

a wide flywheel brush on a stick or a maklovitsa if the waterproofing material resembles ordinary paint;
a spatula with teeth, if the water-repellent "coating" is similar to plasticine.

The consistency of the coating mixture is a characteristic that makes it possible to create a waterproofing of a certain thickness, which automatically delimits the scope:

Liquid mastics based on oxidized petroleum bitumen are applied at least twice in continuous layers perpendicular to each other. The thickness of each of them is approximately 1.0-1.5 mm. Most often, a screed is poured on top of the mastic, therefore no one imposes special requirements, except for cleanliness, dryness, lack of pollution and obvious damage to the rough base.
Bitumen-containing pastes, enriched with mineral or polymeric substances, are laid in one or two seamless layers with a thickness of 3 mm or more. Pasty mixtures can perform two functions: insulation and screed. In view of the rather powerful thickness, this type of waterproofing, by analogy with a screed, is reinforced, but not steel, but PVC mesh is used for strengthening.

Note. For the first layer to harden, it is necessary to withstand the time interval indicated by the manufacturer. The second layer of liquid waterproofing is laid on a dry, hardened surface. It is possible to coat the floor for the third time on a “wet” surface, if this is allowed by the instructions.

Mastics and pastes envelop the floor with a water-impervious coating, subtracting a certain amount of mm or even cm from the ceiling height. But those who are extremely dear to mm can find impregnations in the line of liquid waterproofing materials, the principle of which is somewhat different from conventional coatings.

You can cover a wet floor with penetrating insulation, some manufacturers strongly advise pre-moistening the surface to be treated. In a wet concrete or cement-sand environment, penetrating waterproofing forms needle-shaped crystals, deployed by the base towards the intended water flow. The “newly minted” structure freely passes evaporation and steadfastly repels water attacks, does not reduce the height of the ceilings. However, it costs a lot, therefore it is not used very actively.

The specifics of pasting waterproofing

Its predecessors were roofing felt and roofing material, which did not please with environmental priorities and ease of installation. Advanced representatives of roll materials are made on the basis of elastic polyester, easily spread fiberglass or flexible glass fabric. Bitumen is applied from the outer and inner sides of the material. There is also an adhesive substance on the bottom that provides adhesion to the subfloor, on top there is a component that improves adhesion with the glue for the finish coat.

Note. To improve the adhesion properties with adhesives, the surface of the waterproofing is sometimes sprinkled with medium-grained sand. Its excess is swept away after the insulating material has hardened.

The family of gluing materials is divided into two subgroups, one of which must be welded with a gas burner or at least heated with a building hair dryer. The second subgroup of water-repellent roll protection can be simply glued on, separating the protective film from the strip cut to a pre-calculated size.

Gluing strips is easier, more convenient and safer, both for an inexperienced performer directly, and for material that melts from the slightest overheating and tears from careless movements. On the basis of which the fusion method is trusted by builders. Among them, too, there are not too many who want to work with toxic rolls in a small room. Therefore, self-adhesive options are often preferred for adhesive-type waterproofing on the bathroom floor.

Cons of adhesive waterproofing coatings:

The material can only be glued on a previously dried, leveled, prepared surface with a height difference of max 2 mm. The detection of differences is carried out within a two-meter level gauge, attached to the floor in different directions.
It is better not to mess with welded varieties, not only because of the complex installation, but also because of the release of toxic volatile substances that continue to poison the air for a long time after work is completed. Due to toxicity, they are recommended to be placed under the screed.
Laying requires special care, careful joining of seams, scrupulous alignment of corner mates.

The list of reasonably recognized advantages of roll pasting includes:

affordable price is the most convincing argument;
fastening strength to the draft base;
the ability to proceed to further work on the arrangement of the floor without any technological interruptions.

In addition, it is by gluing that waterproofing of a wooden floor is made in a city and country bathroom. Elastic materials survive the agility of wood movements without any problems, and, despite constant tension and compression, they steadfastly keep solidity. They do not clog the pores of natural organics, do not interfere with aeration phenomena.

An integrated approach to bathroom waterproofing

Depending on the technical specifics of the premises, the owner can choose one of the above methods, but complex measures are considered the most effective. Their essence lies in the use of both types of waterproofing materials, which results in double insurance. Let's consider it.

Proper preparation is the key to success

We will assume that we had to remove the old screed after the worn floor covering from the concrete prefabricated floor or from the monolithic concrete slab. With a spatula or coarse sandpaper, we remove the old oil coating or the top layer of plaster from the lower edge of the walls to the height of the future "sides" of waterproofing. A priori, we accept the need to remove broken fragments, dust, grease stains, oil paint residues, etc.

Let's start with repairing cracks and sealing shells in the body of concrete, for which we first embroider all the recesses, and then fill them with a repair compound, for example, Izostop.
Along the line of joining the walls with the floor, we make a groove with a width / depth of about 1 cm. We fill this groove with a bentonite cord, Penekrit or cement mortar prepared for repair. It is necessary to strengthen the corners and junction zones, because. these are the most vulnerable places for the destructive action of water.

Waterproof barrier device

After repair operations, we carefully process the floor and the part of the walls prepared for insulation with soil (Ceresite, Betonokontakt, etc.).

We prime in two steps, rubbing the composition into the rough base. We direct the second layer of soil "into the cross" of the first, so that there are no accidentally missed holes.
We fill with liquid waterproofing the intersection of the floors with risers and other elements of water communications.
We process with bituminous mastic the cleaned sections of the walls and the floor adjacent to them along the perimeter. Until she grabs, we reinforce the interface between the walls and the floor with PVC mesh tape.
We apply mastic or paste (Technikol, Penetron, Elastomiks, Ceresit, Hyperdesmo or others) in the way prescribed by the manufacturer the required number of times. We are waiting for it to harden. During the drying period of the paste or mastic, it is necessary to stop any possibility of dust and grains of sand settling on the surface. Coating materials in this case play the role of leveling, additional insurance and glue, the properties of which will be deteriorated due to dusting.
After the last of the layers of liquid or paste-like waterproofing has dried, according to the measured dimensions of the floor with added entrances to the walls, we cut off a strip of Isoplast, Aquaizol, Ecoflex or an analogue.
From the upper edge of the strip, you need to step back at a distance equal to the height of the side of the safety pallet. We glue the part falling on the floor, grind it with effort, using a roller.
Each subsequent strip is laid with an overlap of approximately 10 cm on the previous one, so that the result is a continuous waterproof canvas. For reliable fixation on the laid coating, you need to walk with a heavy roller.
Let's take care of the allowances on the walls. We heat the part of the wall treated with mastic with a hairdryer and fix on it the unglued remains of the strips laid on the floor. The corners need to be pressed with a plank, gently melt them in the heated mastic.
Finally, the bituminous treatment around the pipes needs to be done again.

All. You and the floor are protected from a long list of troubles caused by excessive moisture and water leaks. It remains to mask the waterproofing insurance with a decorative and protective floor covering.

Waterproofing a bathroom is a mandatory procedure that helps protect the room from numerous troubles. Firstly, there is protection against possible flooding of neighbors. Secondly, high humidity destroys any surface, but this can be avoided if a protective layer is applied in time.

The application of a waterproofing layer allows you to increase the operational properties of the room. It may seem implausible, but it is he who will avoid the sad consequences of a possible leak. Although, of course, you need to understand that this will not be able to completely retain water if there is a breakthrough in communications.

Now you can find many different materials that allow you to create a reliable waterproofing of the room. The following can be distinguished:

Adhesive products. They are roll or film materials. There are also differences in the way they are laid: some require preheating, others paste over the surface themselves.
Coating materials. These include putties based on bitumen and various polymers. By their appearance, they can be different (powder, paste).
liquid formulations. They can be considered the most popular. They are easily applied to all types of surfaces - walls, ceilings, floors.

There are two main types of liquid waterproofing:

Liquid glass. This is a special solution (potassium + sodium). It is very convenient because it penetrates into numerous pores. Thus completely blocking them. It does not form a film that can be easily damaged. That is, this waterproofing forms an internal protective layer, which is very effective.
Liquid rubber. This is a bituminous emulsion that is pre-diluted with water. In appearance, it looks like a black substance without pungent odors. Great for floors and walls. In addition to good absorbency, it also forms a top protective layer.

Stages of creating a protective layer

Waterproofing a bathroom with your own hands is not the most difficult stage of the whole finish. However, it is important to know the sequence of work, only then it will be possible to achieve the highest quality.

The first layer will be the primer.
After that, the selected type of waterproofing material is applied.
Then a screed is made.
The final alignment takes place and the decorative layer is laid.

There are certain rules for the distribution of waterproofing:

The most important thing will be to carefully apply protection to the floor. At the same time, it should go on the walls by at least 10 centimeters. It is this layer that is done most carefully. No need to spare the material and save on its quality.
Also, waterproofing must be laid around the entire perimeter of the bath or shower.
The places where communications pass are carefully smeared.
Attention is also paid to other plumbing fixtures. Without fail, the protective layer must reach the level of the drain tank, sink, washing machine.

Of course, it is better to create such a layer on all surfaces, but it is these places that should be given special attention.

Laying waterproofing

For all works there are certain stages, the observance of which is mandatory. And the first stage, as usual, is the preparatory activities.

Preparation

Everything that will interfere with the work is removed. That is, if the manipulations are carried out in an old house, then it is necessary to completely remove all previous coatings, and remove the old waterproofing as much as possible.
If there is a need, pipes and sewers are changed.
Advice! It is better to postpone the laying of communications to the penultimate stage. But pre-determine the location of all plumbing.
The priming stage is coming. To date, there are primers that also have hydroprotection.

Waterproofing material must be laid on a primed base

On a note! Walls and ceilings are best protected from moisture with a cement-sand mixture. It in combination with a protective primer will give the desired effect. And the final stage of finishing will be the application of the finishing putty mixture, which will include moisture-retaining components.

Creating a protective layer

Working with liquid waterproofing

This material is convenient in that it does not form joints that are undesirable with such a finish. In addition, it protects not only from the harmful effects of moisture, but also prevents the appearance of mold and fungi.

It is applied in three ways:

By spraying. For this, a special device is used - a spray gun with the necessary nozzles. This method allows you to quickly process large areas. There are also disadvantages - it is not possible to control the thickness of the layer.
Coloring. The most popular way. Brushes and a roller are used as tools. Takes quite a long time.
Fill. The pouring technology is very simple, but can only be used for the floor. It is convenient in that the composition seeps into small cracks, completely clogging them.

On a note! The liquid waterproofing device is considered the most simple and high-quality. The service life of such a layer is up to thirty years. Waterproofing a bathroom with liquid materials is not difficult.

Before starting work with such compounds, they must be prepared. To do this, carefully follow the instructions given by each manufacturer.

Application technology:

It is necessary to properly lay such a layer, starting from the corners.
Then attention is paid to the joints between the wall and the floor. In these places it is better to additionally use a special sealed tape.
Now you can lay the main layer. A spatula works well for this. The layer should be even, its thickness is not more than 1.5 mm.
The number of layers can vary from two to five. They are applied only after the previous one has completely dried.
There should be no draft during operation. And also it is necessary to protect the drying surface from dust and dirt.

Stacking of roll materials

The correct device for waterproofing a bath using such materials begins with measurements and markings. The fact is that roll and film products cannot be applied freely, like other types. Before using them, it is necessary to measure the required size, which will be used.

A few tips:

Warming up the stacked tapes is best done with a burner, but you need to work carefully. High temperatures may cause ignition.
If the material is self-adhesive, then it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface. For better gluing, you should walk several times along the stacked strip. When working with walls, they use a roller for this.
Each strip is overlapped.
After all the strips have taken their places, it would be better to coat all the joints with bituminous mastic. Again, attention should be paid to the joints of the floor and walls.

For a better understanding of the technology, we suggest watching this video:

Ceiling work

Waterproofing the ceiling in the bathroom is also necessary. Its device is not very different from the processing of walls. But not all materials are suitable. It is better to give preference to liquid formulations. They will be much easier to work with.

Final stage

After laying the waterproofing layer, you can start pouring the screed. It is better to do it on the basis of a cement mixture with polymer additives. After that, the selected decorative layer is laid.

How to make waterproofing in the bathroom is a question that worries many, but in fact it is not as complicated as it might seem. The abundance of materials, tools and techniques will allow you to create a truly high-quality protection.

As you know, the bathroom has a special microclimate: humidity, high temperature, constant evaporation, humidity. All this is not the best way to affect beautifully placed tiles, as well as other design elements that cause mold or mildew among seals. The question arises if water resistance is required in the bathroom?

Moreover, this is not the only problem.

You also run the risk of flooding neighbors who live in a neighboring apartment on the same floor by exposure to moisture through cracks that have left wet spots on the ceiling. Waterproofing the walls in the bathroom and on the floor is the best solution. By the way, you can make a waterproofing bath with your own hands.

Special mixtures, lubricating mastic and other materials for bathroom waterproofing

What materials should be used? For a waterproofing device in the bathroom, the most durable, waterproof materials are needed.

There are two types of compositions: lubricating or pasting.

Materials of the first type are made from oxidized bitumen, which is diluted with various excipients (plasticizers, rubber boxes, latex) and an organic solvent.

However, such a base is used at a temperature of 120 degrees Celsius, which is very unpleasant to work with. Even when it is in the cold, the material becomes more brittle. Currently, the most common bathroom waterproofing material is bituminous rubber or bitumen polymer.

You can buy other types of media in pre-made rolls and adhesive-backed films.

Polyester and glass fibers are modern synthetic materials used in the production of adhesives. At first glance, it seems that such work is much simpler: glue the space with the film, and that's it. However, as you know, there are shortcomings all over the world. It is believed that bathroom waterproofing is best done with coating materials.

The choice of material should have different options and the individual characteristics of your bathroom: the presence of pools of all sizes, temperature control for underfloor or wall heating, a jet shower, etc.

Waterproofing wooden floors in the bathroom and concrete; simple walls and covered with drywall

Now consider how to make waterproofing in the bathroom.

Before you begin waterproofing your under-slab bathroom, you need to do some prep work so you don't have to repeat it over and over again.

Walls and floors must be absolutely flat, without bumps, so you need to nail them after cleaning the surface of particles, dust, paint.

Then you need to start with the application of waterproofing paint.

However, if the bathroom walls and floors are plaster boards, you need to take care of increased waterproofing so that the adhesive does not lose its basic properties. To protect the leaves from moisture, it is necessary: wrap them on all sides with a special waterproof membrane or treat with mastic.

The day before the connection is made, the conditions must be treated several times with a water-repellent liquid: in general, this increase will be two to three times the resistance to moisture.

To process online bathroom materials, it is necessary to take a piece of predetermined dimensions, a thermal bitumen base, remove the protective film and all floor adhesive also with a special leveling cylinder (past the cylinder, one area must be repeated).

If you still decide to use coating agents for waterproofing, you should proceed to prepare the solution. Then use a spatula, roller or brush to evenly apply the resulting mass to the floor and walls.

Do you need waterproofing for a bathroom in a multi-storey building and a wooden one? under the screed and under the tiles?

As for the bathroom in a wooden house, you should pay special attention to waterproofing.

It is also important that waterproofing is carried out in the bathroom in a wooden house. All this, because wooden surfaces can come into contact with water, mold and even decomposition of the material can form. In wooden buildings, it is also advisable to waterproof the ceiling in the bathroom, as condensation can destroy the wood and cause decay.

Often in a wooden house, waterproofing is carried out with special hydrophobic paints and varnishes. They prevent the destruction of wooden surfaces.

What types of waterproofing are best for a bathroom?

The choice of one or another method of waterproofing the floor in the bathroom depends on two factors:

causes.
The most common is cement-sand or concrete;
bathroom - is there a shower room, heated floor.

In standard bathrooms where the humidity is low and the small tile surface is turned, it is recommended to use synthetic resin based waterproofing.

How to make a waterproof bathroom

This waterproofing of the floor in the bathroom, whose materials are only 1 mm thick, will hardly affect the level of the floor. You can switch to surface coating a day after finishing work.

If the bathroom is underfloor heating or large tile flooring, insulation with a resilient cement base is best.

The thickness of the layer will be 2-4 mm, so it will take some time to dry.

Can tiles be installed directly on waterproofing?

Under-slab waterproofing is done on a pre-cleaned concrete base with no cracks or cracks. In addition, the floor and walls are treated with a coating and applied with an insulating coating on request, as recommended by the manufacturer. It should completely cover the ground, capture 10-20 cm of the bottom of the walls.

This will protect their joints from moisture.

Then the floor is leveled with screeds, and we already make tiles on it. Floor mats can also be laid in the floor screed.

Those who made the screed for the first time, and then waterproofed, are interested in the question: is it possible to put tiles on waterproofing?

In this case, the reinforcing mesh must be attached to the insulating layer and the screed must be filled and the tile must be installed next to it. The connector must not be too thin, otherwise it will quickly collapse.

Instead of screed, you can use gypsum-based sheets that are attached to the floor with dowels.

What materials are best for waterproofing bathrooms?

For the hydrolysis of walls in the bathroom, it was of high quality and reliable, and it is better to use mixtures of cement polymers.

Bituminous materials have lower costs and may eventually break them down.

In the case of moisture protection and soil waterproofing, the walls of the bathroom under the slab must be carefully treated with exit points for pipes and corners. The joints of the floor and walls, the corners are additionally glued together with a sealed waterproofing tape. There are special cuffs in the outlet zones of the pipes.

All surfaces must be filled before waterproofing (this will improve their adhesion to the material).

To ensure the waterproofing of the bathroom walls under the tiles was more reliable, it can be further reinforced with a reinforcement mesh, which is often used in construction and renovation.

Improved adhesion between waterproofing material and under-slab screeds.

What is the procedure for waterproofing the floor in the bathroom?

Oil bath insulation consists of dry and liquid components. To prepare a mixture, they are taken in equal proportions and mixed with homogeneous ones.

With this roller, this waterproofing compound applies to pre-paved ground and a wall of 15 to 20 cm. You can use a spatula or brush in hard-to-reach places.

This is the first, main layer of protection against moisture.

After drying, the waterproofing tape remains in the joints of floors and walls. This will further strengthen these findings as they are the most sensitive to moisture. Then, after at least 5 hours, the second final moisture layer of the impermeable composition is applied.

The next day after the second layer has dried, you can continue to work.

The use of waterproofing mixture is 2-3 kg / m. m² m. (depending on the manufacturer), it is better to buy with a small margin.

More than waterproofing a bathroom in a wooden house?

High humidity causes the destruction of the tree and excessive dryness - the formation of cracks in it. Avoid this, which will help fix the waterproofing of the bathroom in a wooden house.

The method and materials for protection against moisture are selected depending on the condition of the soil.

Previously, its surface must be thoroughly cleaned, cracks and cracks must be filled with wood mastic. In addition, the floor must be treated with mold materials and prepared, and a waterproofing layer can be formed.

The most reliable and durable is the method of waterproofing moisture protection with a multilayer waterproof carpet.

It consists of sheet metal or rolled materials that are attached to a bituminous bituminous floor.

The disadvantages of this method include high costs and complexity of execution, but they correspond to the excellent performance characteristics of such soil.

What is the best way to insulate floor heating in a bathroom?

You can waterproof your bathroom with underfloor heating.

It is necessary to start designing, during which it is necessary to determine the cable connection points, the location of the thermostat and sensors. Work to improve the warm floor is carried out in the following sequence:

Clean the concrete surface from dust, eliminate all cracks and irregularities;
Apply a layer of waterproofing (we recommend using rolling materials glued to bituminous mastic);
screed filling;
installation of a floor heating system and connection of sensors;
transfusion of a layer of screed screed, which completely covers the cables of the floor heating system;
laying flooring;

The waterproofing of the bathroom floor and the installation of the flooring must be carried out at least 30 days before the first operation of the underfloor heating.

During this period, all layers will be dried and will not cause cracks.

Types of waterproofing for the bathroom

The most common types of bathroom waterproofing are pasting and coating.

Operational qualities of pasting waterproofing

Materials that are used for pasting waterproofing are usually supplied in roll form. Bitumen and modified polymers are used for their production. The structure itself is reinforced with either polyester or fiberglass. They are either self-adhesive or not.

Non self-adhesive material must be laid using a torch.
Advantages:

ease of work;
profitability;
reliability;
after installation, you can immediately use the room for its intended purpose.

Flaws:

unevenness should be less than 2 mm;
you need to be extremely accurate and accurate in the process of gluing the material;
care must be taken to ensure that moisture does not get on the base.

Technical characteristics of coating waterproofing

Bathroom waterproofing is called coating when coating mixtures are used instead of gluing.

Mixtures are different, selected based on the individual parameters of the room.
Advantages:

no matter what the quality of the base on which the mixture is applied;
ease of operation;
a wide range of mixtures.

When planning the size of financial investments in work, it must be taken into account that waterproofing will need to be done on all walls, joints and, of course, on the floor.

The main stages of bathroom waterproofing

The technology for waterproofing a bathroom with your own hands includes several steps that must be strictly followed.

Room preparation

In order to prepare the bathroom for work, you need to get rid of the old finish, clean up the garbage, wash all surfaces, work on them with putty.

Then, treat everything with a primer. When using a cement-polymer mixture, you can not use a primer, but simply walk over the surface with a wet roller. After the preparatory work, not a single chip or crack should remain!

Calculation and preparation of materials

Polymer mixtures, as a rule, are already prepared. But with cement, you still need to tinker.
To prepare the cement mixture, you need a container. There you need to pour water at room temperature.

Then the cement mixture is poured. Before doing this, it is better to read the instructions so as not to pour too much. Next, you need to mix it all up. Repeat the process after 10 minutes. The result should be a homogeneous mass.
To understand how much mixture is needed in order to waterproof a bathroom, it is necessary to measure the surface area, derive the exact total figure and divide it by 1.5. The resulting value is the answer to the question of how much material is needed to waterproof the bathroom.
It is better to cook a little more volume, rounding the result up so that there is a margin.

Using a roller, brush or spatula, apply the mixture to the surface.

Several layers are required. Movements must be perpendicular to the previous direction of movement.

How to waterproof your bathroom floor

The interval before applying each subsequent layer should be several hours. At the same time, the temperature regime (15 degrees) and humidity (no more than 60%) must be observed in the room.
The result should be a smooth surface. Therefore, accuracy in applying the mixture will not be superfluous.

Before carrying out work on applying the mixture, it is advisable to study the information provided by the manufacturer. From it you can find out how thick the resulting surface should be, how many layers it is desirable to apply. This information can usually be found on the packaging.

Before installing all plumbing and other paraphernalia, all remaining seams, joints and holes must be sealed.

Then the waterproofing in the bathroom can be considered completed.

Video

Waterproof bath

The bathroom is a constant source of moisture in the home, which can have a devastating effect over several years and can manifest itself in the most banal way in the form of flooded neighbors.

Surfaces exposed to water (moisture) are usually lined with ceramics or other boards. These linings are waterproof and waterproof, but the seams between the facing elements can remain water-permeable.

After joints, moisture can penetrate into the soil, which causes long-term damage (saturation with moisture and damage to the joint replaces the color appearance of mold, joint cracking in the joints, peeling tiles).

In this case, a waterproofing device is required, where additional waterproofing is applied to the surface before laying.

Waterproofing protects the surfaces of pedestals, the connection of building structures (walls, walls), theft of communication passages from moisture penetration.

use it

prevents the risk of emergency failure;
protects walls from destruction under the influence of moisture;
prevents the formation and reproduction of harmful microorganisms for human health.

In general, in humid areas where water sources exist, waterproofing must necessarily be carried out in the so-called "wet zones":

above the floor on the bottom wall up to a height of at least 20 cm above the floor of the surface, the entire surface of the wall in shower areas with a stop at a distance of at least 50 cm from it, on the walls of the sink and bathtub up to a height of at least 20 cm above the water (faucet or top position shower head) at least 50 cm on the sides of the edges of the tub and shell.

It may be easier and easier to install waterproofing in the entire bathroom than in individual areas, which is why it is often installed on the ceiling.

Waterproofing floors and walls
In bathroom

In accordance with clause 7.2 of SP 29.13330.2011.

in the floor of the floor to the wall, based on machines, pipelines and other objects projecting above the ground, waterproofing must be provided with a constant height of at least 20 cm above the floor, and if possible, water jets lift the walls - the entire height of the irrigation.

For the average intensity of exposure to wastewater and other liquids, the number of layers of waterproofing is taken into account depending on the type of material:

bituminous waterproofing attached to lubricants, bituminous and bitumen-polymer creams and mortar-based cement mortars - at least two layers;
waterproofing from bitumen-rolled welded and self-adhesive materials and polymeric rolled materials - at least one layer.

Valid waterproofing

Finished and film materials up to the walls of the room are very unpleasant and quite heavy, so they are used mainly for floor insulation.

The main problem is that such waterproofing cannot be applied immediately over ceramic tiles and other finished materials.

First you must build cement sand. In addition, the cement slurry does not form good adhesion to the surface of the bituminous material or polymer film, but simply lies on the waterproofing layer. With SNP thickness, the floating screed must be at least 4 cm, or the cement board will not have the required strength properties and will not bear the weight of the bathtub, washing machine, toilet, etc.

How to make your own bathroom

etc., which creates significant burdens. Taking into account the hardening time of the screed and the power required for laying ceramic tiles or other finishes, it will be possible to start no earlier than a month later.

Lubricant waterproofing

Grease pads make work easier and faster than roller materials, especially in tight spaces with typical bathrooms and bathrooms.

Easy to use material liquid bituminous latex(water-emulsion bituminous mastic).

Lubricants form a better bond with the base as a rolling material. However, the cement adhesive does not form a reliable adhesion to bitumen, so a screed is required when laying the tiles.

The most acceptable material for waterproofing in an apartment is cement-based waterproofing.. Cement mortar or tile adhesive will do much better on a bulk of cement polymer than on a roofing material or film.

The overall thickness of the floor will be reduced as there is no additional cement screed to protect the water repellents. And at the same time, such a composition can be compensated for by slight surface irregularities, as if it were used for high-quality raw walls made of porous concrete, brick or lime-lime plaster without scratches.

It should be noted that materials that are popular in home renovations, such as drywall, which are resistant to moisture, do not have waterproofing properties, but they are characterized only by increased resistance to moisture compared to conventional ones.

Therefore, they should not be subjected to long-term exposure, and in rooms with water it is necessary to additionally charge or it is better to use additional waterproofing.

waterproofing device

bathroom interior cleaning
leveling surfaces using corrective mixtures;
applying a layer of waterproofing, The most suitable are binders and polymer-cement waterproofing materials.;
As glue, you can use tile label, polymer cement water material.

Interface surface locations, transmission locations, etc. They are generally reinforced by packing sealing tape, corner pieces, cuffs. When working, follow the manufacturer's instructions for materials.

Waterproofing materials
Oaklechnoe soil waterproofing method
Mode of application
Organization of waterproofing of wooden coatings
Helpful Hints

Of all the rooms in the apartment, the bathroom is the wettest.

Therefore, the waterproofing of the floor in the bathroom must be made of quality, the materials from which the pressure is made do not affect the quality. Otherwise, water will flow through the floor, fungus and mold will appear, which will lead to the destruction of the structure. In this article, we will look at how to make a waterproof floor in the bathroom.

Waterproofing materials

The existing bathroom floor waterproofing material is as follows:

Roller shutter, which has a waterproofing impregnation.
Grease.
These are bones, liquids, pastes based on various materials.
Dilute dry mixtures with water.
Flexible concrete waterproofing.
Rubber or polymer waterproofing.

Each type of waterproofing has typical properties that determine the extent to which they are used.

The bathrooms have bitumen, rubber or polymer oklechny or waterproof.

Oaklechnoe soil waterproofing method

Thus, it is possible to make waterproofing with bituminous materials in rolls with the addition of polymers with a reinforcing layer of synthetic materials or fiberglass.

Floating and self-adhesive bituminous materials are available. During installation, the melt must be heated using a gas burner during installation. However, this is not appropriate to do in a small room. Also read: "Waterproofing screed - how to do it right, choose the version of the floor."

In addition, there is an unpleasant smell of bitumen, which is very long in space. The best option is to use self-adhesive materials when such problems do not arise.

Self-adhesive waterproofing materials in the bathroom are produced using the following technology:

The ground needs to be leveled, so there are no cracks, holes or bumps.
The difference in height should be less than 2 cm. The surface should be replaced with a brush and suck.
Then the surface is covered with a bituminous coating. The surface must be dry.
The roll material is cut to the size of the corresponding floor length, taking into account the approach to all walls by 15-20 cm.
The cut material is placed on the floor, which is covered and carefully moved by a continuous roller. This is done for the movement of air bubbles and better grip.
The connections must be lubricated with a seal.
It is very important to install waterproofing near pipes and seams. Rubber seals are used to insulate pipes. The contact zones of pipes with waterproofing are sealed.
Cement screed can be done immediately after installation, and then the final coating. Most often, so waterproofing the floor in the bathroom under the tiles.

The Oakleading method is hard to pull up.

However, in the end, this method is cheaper than others. It is advisable to choose a support method if waterproofing is carried out in a floor screed in the bathroom. To strengthen the screed, add reinforcement of polypropylene fibers.

Mode of application

Gradually, lubricating waterproofing is becoming more and more popular. This is due to the creation of a large number of different materials for this method of waterproofing.

Based on bitumen and polymers, bitumen and rubber, cement and polymers are hooks. Thanks to the various fillers and plasticizers included in the mastic, its flexibility and strength are improved.

The fillers included in the mixture may be in the form of crumbs or fibers.

Mastic also contains antifungal materials and components that prevent mold.

They also made samples that have a good base for soil and grease based on the same materials.

The body should be used as specified in the mastic manual.

A cement floor with a waterproofing coating is covered as follows:

The floor is ready, which means that the debris must be removed and replaced. Wet brushing should not, but should be very well absorbed.
Apply roller with roller until the surface is completely saturated.
In case of high soil absorption, more layers may be required. Primer-based polymers, in addition to increasing the adhesion of the mastic, also form the first layer of waterproofing. Also read: "Waterproofing before or after screed?".
The sealing tape must be glued to all corners and joints with walls, floor contact points with pipes.
Rubber seals are placed on the pipe.
The mastic is grown according to the instructions given on the package and should be like warm clay according to the density. Apply a solid roller with a brush to the hooks and joints. For high-quality waterproofing mastic, floors from the floor are covered with 20 cm.

Fats for waterproofing the floor in the bathroom dry out for several days.

Until it is completely dry, the soil cannot receive dust, water and all items, and it cannot be bypassed. Once the waterproofing has dried on it, you can place tiles or porcelain pots.

Waterproofing with bituminous bituminous coating or low thickness cement and low thickness polymer is reliable and has a long service life. It has one drawback: it can only be used for concrete.

For wooden floors, this waterproofing is not enough (see "Reliable insulation of a wooden floor in the bathroom - what and how to do it").

In this case, two-component mastics are used for waterproofing, consisting of liquid rubber and an activator, which contributes to its curing.

Organization of waterproofing of wooden coatings

Preparing a wood floor for waterproofing is not easy. This is a laborious and costly process, since the insulating composition does not have to go through it, otherwise the consumption will increase significantly.

The surface is cleaned of dirt. Then the logs are stacked, steam foam blocking and insulation (styrofoam can, then the surface will be hard and smooth).

Cracks between plates and seals must be sealed. If mineral wool is used as a heater, moisture-resistant plywood must be laid on it.

Then the actual waterproofing is done.

How to cheaply make waterproofing with your own hands in the bathroom?

Liquid rubber is combined with the drive and is immediately attached to the floor, so walls and floors must be properly bonded.

After drying, it is necessary to check the quality of the waterproofing: there must be a uniform and smooth surface. Use another layer if necessary.

Finishing is done in the usual way.

It should be borne in mind that tile adhesive has poor adhesion to the rubber compound, so the screed must be made with a reinforcing mesh (in more detail: "How to tie a bathroom - types and methods of location").

Such waterproofing can be used under a bathroom wall, not just under wooden floors.

In swimming pools and washbasins, this method of waterproofing can be used, as it ensures its high quality.

When waterproofing the floor in the bathroom, regardless of the method chosen, the instructions supplied with the material must be observed, in particular the moment at which the drying time of the coating is indicated. Fire retardant waterproofing may burst after the end is laid if it is not allowed to dry.

The article provides answers to questions about how to water the soil in the bathroom and how to do it. If you stick to technology, the quality of waterproofing will be excellent.

We have steadily become accustomed to writing off a number of problems caused by force majeure, despite the fact that in most cases such events are mainly due to our control.

Timely waterproofing of the bathroom and bathroom floor is just one of the key measures that can secure your budget in cases of annoying leaks. This is especially true for dwellings in multi-storey buildings, where the subsequent repair of neighbors' houses from the bottom with water can be "poured" in a very decent amount.

Soil waterproofing methods

Today's construction market offers a wide range of high-quality waterproofing materials from domestic and foreign manufacturers.

But when choosing, first focus on the purpose and type of waterproofing that suits your requirements, just as different cost changes sometimes differ from each other.

Works related to the waterproofing of floor bathrooms are carried out in two classical ways: overlapping or overlapping.

The second option, which, thanks to the use of roll film waterproofing materials, is currently rarely used in home renovations, as it has some disadvantages, as well as a complex implementation technique.

In particular, this method is not suitable for bathrooms with an elevated restrictive profile (this still happens) because the roll waterproofing raises the level of the floor by about 3-5 mm depending on the type of rollers.

Therefore, based on the ratio of the effectiveness of the quality of the price, to the floor of the bathroom, bathrooms of the most suitable waterproofing mastic, as will be explained later.

Bathroom waterproofing question

Before getting into the details of moisture protection, there is one important question to consider: when to start waterproofing device floor in the bathroom before you pour the concrete or after it?

It's strange, but still honestly, there is no clear expert opinion on the subject. Some people are advised to start working before the tie, according to the best monitoring option, to apply the tiles to the bathroom on a flat concrete floor that has excellent grip.

IE on the principle of screed - waterproofing - tiles and slabs, which are due to the fact that in the event of leakage of protected concrete, the matrix is \u200b\u200bnot saturated with moisture, as in the first option, without affecting later moisture, smell and sometimes mold. Well, if there really is no problem on the slab directly with waterproofing from a thin adhesive layer, tile adhesive (maximum 1 cm), which obviously does not contribute to the durability of tiling.

But there is a third way, which, in our opinion, is the most reliable and correct in all respects in achieving a truly high-quality result.

Preparatory work:

Main stages of work

1. The entire prepared surface uses surface waterproofing, keeping a constant application technique, we must not forget about dirt and walls (20 to 50 cm).

Typically, three coats using a wide brush and colored roller are applied during operation, with a 24-hour drying interval for each coat.

Do-it-yourself bathroom waterproofing

The steps in this process are shown in the photo:

Final waterproofing of corners

Then, with dry waterproofing, apply a layer of a special coating filled with coarse quartz sand - Concrete Contact DV Feilal or more expensive equivalent Concrete Contact Stenote KR which have strong adhesive properties.

Today, for such a "hybrid" coating, we again set the light profile to the desired height (usually 1.5 cm, but not less) and fill it with the infill floor Vetonit 5000 by dragging the solution through the beacons, usually.

4. Wait at least 5 days, which is necessary for the final drying of the finished floor, past the powder Glyms, we maintain a drying time of about 3 hours and place the plate on the cement-adhesive mixture Flisencleber or Lithoflex.

Thus, between slabs and insulation on the base screed, a high-strength cement layer approximately 3 cm thick (soil filler + tile adhesive) is obtained, which can withstand significant loads without damaging the tiles.

Types of lubricating waterproofing

As already mentioned, coating waterproofing (liquid) has many advantages over rolled counterparts.

In addition to the efficiency of use, the composites in question have high adhesion, resistance to aggressive environments and high temperatures, which is especially important for showers and bathrooms.

Consider the most popular types of waterproofing coatings of this class:

cement polymer- a practical universal mixture through which the waterproofing of floors, walls and roofs is ensured. However, due to the advent of combined protective ingredients that have better properties, this type is less widely used today.
bitumen- completely economic water resistance, known since the construction of socialism. This change is divided into cold and hot types, the first of which is undesirable for use in contact with an acidic alkaline environment, i.e. with concrete. Hot bitumen is considered more versatile as it is a very strong plastic material that can hold water well. But due to its willingness to work, only when it heats up to 160 degrees, it is better to relax in a bitumen renovation apartment.
Bitumen-polymer– enjoys a special love surrounded by artisans with great experience. Thanks to its ingredients - latex fillers, plasticizers and bitumen-based organic solvents, it provides lubricants with excellent adhesion properties to concrete and exceptional strength properties.
One of the well-deserved brands for wet rooms - Aqua Jast
acrylic— water-based waterproofing of the latest generation.
Unlike bitumen, it does not smell, it is completely environmentally friendly, it has increased plasticity and strength. The prominent representatives of this line are Feidal Flachendicht And Hydro-Buffer.

At the end of the ad

Despite the seeming simplicity of providing waterproofing floors in bathrooms and bathrooms, we should not experiment without skills in this area of work.

After all, there are many "underwater reefs" that craftsmen have experienced - decorators sometimes feel at the level of intuition. Remember - properly designed waterproofing can save you unnecessary costs.

Other practical tips with photos:

The bathroom is the wettest room in the apartment, and in order to avoid various troubles, it is necessary to equip the room with waterproofing. This stage of work when finishing a bathroom is necessary for several reasons: it excludes the possibility of accidentally flooding neighbors, for example, if the communication system fails, high humidity will not destroy the material from which the structure is made.

A waterproofing layer in the bathroom is necessary, and the quality of the coating will depend on the type of material and its correct application. Today, in the building materials market, you can be offered different types of insulating materials for installation. You can select the most popular:

Pasted insulation - sold in rolls, or in the form of a film, differ in the method of installation: the first type must be heated before laying, the second pastes over the surface without thermal exposure.
The coating material - powder or in the form of a paste, is produced on the basis of polymers, bitumen or mastic.

Liquid insulation is one of the most popular. You can easily cover not only the floor, but also the ceiling with walls. There are two types of liquid insulation:
- Liquid glass is a solution of potassium with sodium. This material does not create a film, it penetrates deep into the surface, reliably clogging all cracks and pores, thereby forming a protective layer that effectively protects against moisture penetration.
- Liquid bitumen is an emulsion diluted with water. The property of this material is that when it is applied to the surface, not only a protective layer is formed due to deep penetration, but also a strong film on the surface.

How to properly equip waterproofing

There is nothing complicated in such a process as waterproofing the floor in the bathroom - you can do it yourself. It is enough to know in what order the installation should take place, and the result will be satisfactory.

Any work should begin with surface preparation. If the bathroom is not in a new building, then you need to remove all old coatings, that is, clean the walls and floor to concrete. And only after that, start work related to the isolation of the premises, which will take place in stages:

surface priming;
waterproofing layer, the material you prefer;
arrangement of the screed;
leveling the surface, if necessary;
final decorative finish.

Waterproofing is distributed according to certain rules:

the most basic is the application of material to the surface. If waterproofing is done only on the floor, then it should go onto the walls by at least 15 centimeters. It is necessary not to spare the material and not to save on its quality. The main thing is that the layer is uniform, without gaps.
The entire perimeter of the bathroom or shower must be carefully processed.
It is good to lubricate the surface in the places where communications pass.
It is worth insulating the walls in the places where plumbing fixtures are installed, for example, the level of the toilet flush tank should be insulated, like the installation site of the washing machine.

It is advisable to isolate the entire bathroom, including the ceiling, but if there is no time for this. No funds, then special attention is paid to the floor and the installation sites of plumbing.

Installation of waterproofing

So, as mentioned earlier, the room is cleared of everything superfluous, including old coatings. If during the dismantling process it turned out that the pipes of the communication system are in a deplorable state, then they must be replaced with new ones.

Also, during dismantling, sufficiently large cracks in the base may open, which must be filled with construction foam, which, after drying, is cut to the level of the floor or wall.

It is better to leave the laying of communications for later. At this stage, a drawing is made of the location of plumbing fixtures.

The surface priming step is mandatory, as adhesion increases and, in addition, some deep penetration primers have additional hydroprotection.

Protective layer with liquid insulation

The material is very convenient to use, it lays flat on the surface without creating seams, which is not unimportant. In addition, it not only isolates the room, but also protects it from the appearance of fungus and mold.

Material can be applied in 3 ways:

Spraying, using a sprayer with nozzles of the desired size. This method is used only in cases where the treated surface has a large area. The disadvantage of this method can be considered the inability to control the thickness of the insulation layer.
Coloring is the most popular way. Takes a lot of time, which can be reduced by using a roller on the entire surface, and brushing only the corners with a brush.
Filling is a simple and effective technology. It can only be applied to horizontal surfaces, but the composition penetrates well into pores and cracks, clogging them well.

According to professional builders, liquid waterproofing is the highest quality and easiest way to protect a room from moisture. Such a coating has been used for more than 30 years, and is not a complex technological process.

Coating material

These compounds require preliminary preparation before they are applied. This is done according to the instructions that are written on the package, which must be strictly followed.

Mounting technology:

You need to start arranging this type of waterproofing from the corners.
Particular attention is paid to the junction of the floor with the wall. Experts advise gluing these places with a special sealing tape before applying insulation.

Only after these two stages, the application of the main layer begins, which is equipped with a spatula. It is enough to pour the waterproofing material on the floor and level it to a thickness of one and a half millimeters, over the entire surface.
There should be several layers, but not less than two. Each subsequent layer is made after the previous one has dried.
Such waterproofing is afraid of drafts at the installation stage, so you need to take care of their absence, in addition to this, dust should not get on the surface.

The number of layers of coating waterproofing can be increased to five if there is an urgent need for this, for example, children live in an apartment and there is a high probability of flooding neighbors.

Installation of roll insulation

The most difficult material to install, although quite cheap. Before you start laying, you need to measure the room and mark it. It is made for this. To cut the right amount of material from the roll, for easier flooring into a small bathroom hanging. In addition, it is worth remembering that many roll materials require heating during installation.

Mounting Tips:

Warming up the insulation tapes can be done qualitatively only with the use of a heating pad or a blowtorch, only you need to work with extreme caution. Open flames and high temperatures may ignite the material.
When using self-adhesive material, the surface is prepared very carefully. The strip to be laid must be well rolled with a rubber roller to prevent bubbling. Walls also roll well if such insulation is used.
The strips are overlapped by 5 centimeters.
As soon as all the material is laid on the surface, the joints are well coated with bitumen or special mastic.

Cons of using this type of insulation for bathrooms in an apartment:

before laying the roll insulation, the surface will have to be leveled, since the deviation in irregularities should not be more than two millimeters;
before processing, the surface will need to be thoroughly dried, as the insulation may simply not stick in wet places;
the smell of bitumen, which is not only caustic and sharp, but also toxic, so its use in a residential apartment is highly undesirable.

How to insulate ceilings

Although many people neglect this, it is necessary to insulate the ceilings in the bath, it will save you from unexpected flooding by the neighbors from above. This process is not much different from waterproofing the entire room, only not all materials will fit and the work will be laborious. Give preference to liquid materials or coating materials, it will be easier to work with them in this situation.

It is advisable to pre-glue the corners of the connection of the ceiling and walls with an insulating tape and only after that apply the insulation composition.

Lime-cement plaster, based on a primer, after application and drying, forms an excellent waterproofing layer on walls and ceilings.

Final stage

Once the waterproofing layer is ready, you can start pouring the screed. It is better if the mixture is bought in a store (the range is now quite large). But if you decide to do everything yourself, then the screed should be cement with a little sand added. The screed will dry, depending on the layer, within a week, and only after that it will be possible to lay the top coat.

In custody

Many people are afraid to do waterproofing in the bathroom on their own, but as you can see, the process is not as complicated as they think. At the moment, the abundance of material and tools have facilitated the process of laying the insulating layer so much that you can quickly and efficiently lay it yourself without involving a team of professionals.

August 15, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

Waterproofing a bathroom is not just an important, but a mandatory step in finishing a plumbing room. Especially in a wooden house, where the load-bearing structures do not tolerate moisture. No less important is the waterproofing for the bathroom under the tiles, thanks to which the integrity of the interfloor ceilings and repairs in the apartment next to the bottom in the event of an accident are preserved.

Most recently, I did such work and, taking this opportunity, I want to tell you how to make waterproofing in the bathroom with your own hands so that not a single molecule of water leaks from the ceiling under your plumbing room.

The need for bathroom waterproofing

To begin with, let me acquaint you with information about what waterproofing is and whether it should be done when finishing a bathroom. This term in construction refers to a set of measures aimed at preventing the penetration of liquids through the enclosing walls and interfloor ceilings of buildings and structures.

According to SNiP number 2.03.13-88, the bathroom belongs to the class of rooms that experience medium and high intensity of the impact of liquids on the floor surface. The building instruction states that water protection measures are mandatory for it. Naturally, in addition to the floor, waterproofing of the walls for tiles or other finishing material is also needed, otherwise the necessary water resistance cannot be achieved.

It is especially important to waterproof the bathroom in a frame house and a room where drywall was used for wall decoration. These materials are easily damaged as a result of getting wet and will quickly become unusable if they are constantly in contact with water or water vapor.

Regardless of what waterproofing materials are used, the goal of this stage of work is to create a waterproof "trough" on the floor in the bathroom with sides on the walls of the room 15-20 cm high.

In the photo - a "trough" of waterproofing material in the bathroom.

A monolithic hermetic layer will not let water that gets on the floor into the interfloor overlap, which will protect the structural elements of the building from destruction. In addition to increasing the life of the building and preserving the nerves of neighbors, this will prevent the appearance of mold, fungus and other pathogens.

Some doubt whether waterproofing is needed under the tile, because the tile itself does not let water through. In this regard, I can note the following: when facing walls with ceramic tiles, an absolutely hermetic waterproof layer is not formed (due to the presence of seams), therefore, the type in question cannot be considered as an alternative to waterproofing.

As for the specific method of forming a waterproof layer and the materials used for this, they depend on several factors:

the state of the surface to be processed;
material from which interfloor floors are constructed;
the terms allotted for the arrangement of the hydroprotective layer;
number of storeys of the building;
the ability to reduce the distance between the floor and the ceiling of the sanitary room.

Waterproofing methods

I hope I convinced you of the need for waterproofing materials. In this section I will talk about the various ways to protect the bathroom floor from water and about the types of materials that are used for this.

I presented all the necessary information in the form of a table so that you can decide for yourself which technology to choose for the necessary work.

View	Description
Gluing waterproofing	Flexible membranes, bitumen coating are used for work. Roofing felt or roofing felt are the most common, but now more effective and easy-to-install adhesive waterproofing is sold in stores. For example, TechnoNIKOL. The fixing of the sheets of material is carried out due to the glue applied in advance on one side of the membrane. Sometimes it is necessary to use a gas burner or a building hair dryer for work.
Cast waterproofing	One of the most effective and fastest ways of waterproofing surfaces, which is often used during repairs in city apartments. Waterproofing is carried out with polymer mastics, which, after hardening, form a sealed seamless layer that prevents moisture from seeping into the ceiling.
Coating waterproofing	The most common technology (at least in my practice). It is carried out with bituminous mastic. Liquid waterproofing is applied to the treated surfaces with a brush or roller and, after hardening, also forms a completely sealed layer that does not allow water to seep into the floor.
Backfill waterproofing	For work, bulk hydrophobic materials are used, which fill the floor in the bathroom. I have not come across such a method in practice, so I can’t tell you something specific.
Plaster waterproofing	Cement mortars are used, in which polymeric additives or liquid glass are added to prevent the liquid from seeping through the applied waterproofing layer. This is a fairly effective and inexpensive way to protect interfloor floors from moisture. I rarely resort to it just because the coating waterproofing is easier to apply.

To the question of which technology is better from the ones presented above, everyone answers for himself. Personally, I am impressed by the coating method as the easiest to implement. It is about him that I will tell a little more. If you are interested in learning about other methods of waterproofing, ask questions in the comments.

The specifics of the use of coating materials

Previously, animal fat and mineral oils served as the basis for waterproofing materials. Now you can protect the bathroom floor from water seepage using a dry powder (a solution is made from it), liquid mastic or paste.

The thickness and effectiveness of the sealed layer depends on the consistency of the waterproofing solution:

Bitumen-based liquid mastic is suitable for waterproofing bathrooms. It is applied in two layers, each after hardening - 1 mm. Most often, a tile is placed on top of such a mastic or a concrete screed is poured.

Paste mastic is made from bitumen with polymer additives. It also fits in two layers, each about 3 mm thick. The paste-like mixture can serve as both a waterproofing layer and a heavy, leveling floor. Fiberglass reinforcing mesh is often used to harden the surface.

Dry powder based on cement with hydrophobic additives. It is used for simultaneous waterproofing of the surface and leveling the floor in the bathroom for a decorative coating. It is applied in one layer with a spatula.

I prefer bitumen-based liquid coating waterproofing.

Floor waterproofing by painting

Now it's time to tell you about how waterproofing is done for the bathroom. I will describe the technology using the example of an ordinary bathroom in an apartment building. And you already refract it, taking into account your conditions.

Preparation

The effectiveness of measures to protect the floor in the bathroom from water directly depends on the preparatory stage. Let me tell you how I do it:

I inspect the ceiling (floor in the bathroom) and perform minor repairs to the reinforced concrete surface. I seal small cracks with mounting foam or cement mortar, I clean large cracks with a perforator and also fill with cement mortar.

If your bathroom floor is located with a significant difference in height (more than 2 cm), I advise you to first make a concrete screed along the lighthouses. If the difference is not so significant, but still present, you can limit yourself to a self-leveling mixture.

After repair, I prime the surface. The primer improves the adhesion of the waterproofing to the mineral board and reduces the consumption of waterproofing material. I apply the primer with a brush in two layers with a 2-hour drying interval.

At the junction of walls and floor slabs, I glue a waterproofing film. In these places, microscopic shifts of structural elements are possible, which can lead to the appearance of cracks. Therefore, an elastic tape is used that maintains integrity when the base moves.

If you didn’t buy the tape in advance, then the mentioned areas should be very carefully (in 4-5 layers) smeared with bituminous waterproofing mastic.

Solution preparation

In the case described in this article, for waterproofing the floor, I used the coating mastic MG-1 manufactured by the Leader company. It is sold in buckets of different capacities (I bought 6 kg) and is completely ready for use.

However, many use cement-based formulations with various additives, which are sold as a dry powder, for work. Then you will need to prepare a solution by mixing the powder with water in the proportions indicated on the package.

It is important to achieve complete homogeneity of the mixture. To mix the solution, I recommend using a mixer that is worn on a drill.

To achieve the maximum quality of the prepared solution, follow these tips:

Use only clean containers. Very often, the remains of a previously prepared mixture became the reason that the new waterproofing mortar did not turn out to be homogeneous and the whole work had to be redone.
The prepared solution has a limited shelf life (no more than 40 minutes). Therefore, you need to knead only the amount of material that you can use up in a specified period of time.

Applying mastic

Applying bituminous mastic on the floor is not particularly difficult. The material has a liquid consistency and can be applied with an ordinary wide brush, evenly distributing it over the treated surface.

The scheme is as follows:

First, the first layer is applied, after which it is left to dry for 6-8 hours.
After that, a second layer is applied, which dries for at least a day. Only after 24 hours, you can continue finishing work in the sanitary room.

It is very important to process not only the floor, making a raid on the walls to a height of about 20 cm, but also those surfaces that will get water when taking a bath or shower. Although SNiP does not require such an operation, I still advise you to spend some time and mastics on waterproofing the walls in these places. This will significantly increase the service life of building envelopes (especially in wooden houses).

Summary

Now you know how waterproofing is done in the bathroom. As you can see, do-it-yourself processing of the floor and walls using a bituminous mixture is carried out quickly and does not require significant cash costs. Therefore, I see no reason to neglect this stage of finishing sanitary facilities, thereby protecting myself and my neighbors from unnecessary problems.

What do you think is better for waterproofing a bathroom under a tile? I am interested in the methods that you have already tested in practice. If there are any, I will be glad if you tell about them in the comments.