With a wooden table-top at the minimum financial expenses.
The house has been rebuilt and renovations are in progress. The kitchen was also ready at that time. The question was about the kitchen table. Stores were looking at wooden tables. Normal tables with a wooden top (not chipboard) cost from 3,000 rubles. After looking at the whole thing, I decided to make a table with my own hands.
To make the table I bought:
- type-setting wooden furniture board 60cm wide and 3m long (there was no less),
- wooden beam 4 x 4 cm,
- 4 table legs. (they are sold in furniture fittings stores),
- screw nuts for fastening the legs.
Everything about everything took 1500 rubles.
The dimensions of our future table are 60 cm by 160 cm (half of the furniture board), based on the size of the kitchen), so the cost of the table was set at just over 1000 rubles.
Having cut the tabletop to the size of the table, I set about sawing the ends of the timber at 45 degrees.
The beam is necessary to stiffen the countertop. We start it around the perimeter of the table from the bottom side. Without a bar, the tabletop will sag.
We apply the blanks of the bars to the countertop and check whether everything fits together without gaps.
We fasten the beam to the countertop with screws.
On the reverse side of the tabletop we mark the places for attaching the legs and holes.
We drill holes in the countertop for the screws. Drill diameter - 10 mm. Screw nut diameter - 12 mm.
To facilitate the screwing of the nut, you can set the stroke with a tap to 12mm. The pitch of the tap is equal to the pitch of the thread on the screw nut.
We do all this with four legs.
The table is ready and stands on legs. Let's start sanding and varnishing it.
I cleaned the table with sandpaper, first 80, then finer - 150. I made the edges of the table and bars a little rounded. Somewhere irregularities moonlighted.
After careful polishing, I proceeded to varnish the table.
We had a matte varnish (we took it earlier to cover the floor). After applying the first layer, let the varnish dry. After drying, the pile rises. Again we pass with fine sandpaper and cover with a second layer of varnish.
If necessary, after the second layer, we also sand it with sandpaper and varnish the table, as I did.
The table is ready!
Instead of metal legs, you can also use a square beam or ready-made balusters, which are sold ready-made.
Probably when I make another table, I will use balusters. They come in different sizes. It is desirable to use balusters with a diameter of more than 70 mm. They are also fastened with screws.
greetings to all brain artisans! We worked with lumber and there were scraps left, but is it a pity to throw them away? Or are the pallets gathering dust uselessly in the workshop? Then read this brainguide how do it yourself make a table out of scrap wood.
Table- homemade described in this master class is 245x76cm in size and the amount of materials described below is selected for these dimensions.
Step 1: Materials
Pallets or cutting boards
plywood 245x76 and 1.5 cm thick
timber 5x5cm for framing the tabletop, about 680cm
wood glue
nails
gearbox for drill - a device that allows you to drill holes at an angle
self-tapping screws 3.3 cm and decorative plugs for them
self-tapping screws 6.25cm and 2cm
epoxy resin, about 6 liters - but it depends on the desired layer thickness
oilcloth
mixing bowl, stirring sticks
masking tape
metal profile 50x50mm, about 9m
metal strip 50mm, about 1.2m
metal pipe with a diameter of 5cm, about 5m
metal spray paint
Step 2: Material preparation
We start with sorting lumber and selecting the right brainboard, or from parsing pallets. I collected the pallets I had and chose different textures and colors.
So, we disassemble the pallets, select the boards, remove nails, staples, etc. from them, which can damage the tool when processing the boards.
Step 3: Cut to size
We cut the selected boards into boards of equal width, the length does not matter. I cut my boards 4 cm wide. The length is not important because when gluing we will lay out the boards, filling the space on the countertop, one after another and simply cut off the excess.
Step 4: Plywood Base
We cut the plywood sheet to the desired size of the table and gradually glue the prepared boards to it. We try to alternate the color and length of the boards so that the pattern crafts became more interesting.
I first smeared the board with glue, applied it in the chosen place, pressed it with a clamp and nailed it with finishing nails so that it would be held by them while the glue was drying.
Step 5: Frame around the perimeter
After the boards are glued and cut around the perimeter brain crafts, along this very perimeter we mount a frame made of timber, which is greater in height than the glued boards. This frame will serve as the sides when pouring epoxy.
For the frame, we take a bar 50x50cm, cut it to the size of the table, cut the ends at an angle of 45 degrees and connect them into a frame. To make the connections between the beam and the plywood base better, I used a reducer for a drill, which I attached to plywood and drilled holes for self-tapping screws on it. And then he simply applied the beam of the frame and fastened it with self-tapping screws through the drilled holes, then filled the holes themselves with putty for wood and cleaned them, so they became invisible. I installed plugs on the screws in the corners of the frame, and then also putty.
Step 6: Table Legs
The tabletop is assembled, so let's move on to the supports, that is, the legs. There are many options for creating table legs, I decided to weld them from a metal profile.
First of all, we determine the dimensions medulla, I decided that mine would be 180x60x30cm. Next, cut the profile to size and proceed to welding.
First, we weld the profile with the letter “U”, then we weld the strips to the ends, we make two such elements. Then we combine these elements with a profile into a support, and we strengthen its spans with metal pipes. We clean the welds and paint the entire support homemade metal paint.
Step 7: Attaching the Tabletop
Before mounting the table top on the support, holes for fasteners must be drilled in the support itself. To do this, along the perimeter of the support, we drill holes for self-tapping screws in it, and we also countersink the holes in the support strips to drown the heads of the screws.
Next, turn the tabletop over and put it on the floor, back side up. We mark on it the place of attachment of the support so that it is brain center. We install the support, also upside down, and fasten it to the countertop with screws.
Step 8: Pouring Resin
We bring the table into working condition, that is, turn it over and put it on a support, and then proceed to the crucial step - pouring epoxy resin.
We spread oilcloth on the floor under the table, as you can stain the floor itself. To avoid resin leaks, seal seams, cracks, holes, etc. with masking tape. According to the instructions, we prepare the epoxy resin and, observing TB, fill the countertop. It is desirable that the room where the pouring is carried out is warm, ventilated and well lit, and the table is on a flat surface. These are important points for obtaining a perfectly smooth table surface.
When pouring, fill in all voids and corners of the tabletop, and do not pour in large layers, more than 6mm, let each layer cure for about 6 hours. Thoroughly mix the epoxy, pour slowly to avoid air bubbles, if they do form, then “drive” them with a burner.
After the resin base layer has completely cured, remove the masking tape and fill in the finishing layer, which will turn the countertop into a seamless monolith. After the finish layer has hardened, we clean and polish the smudges that could have formed on the sides and on the bottom surface crafts.
Step 9: Enjoy Your Creation!
Homemade from recycled materials is ready, we rejoice in the fruits of our waste-free brain-building!
When the area does not allow you to place a large wide table, this is bad, but when there is a lot of free space for the table, the following problem arises - how is it rational to occupy it? For those who are not going to spend a lot of money on their desktop, a detailed master class will be very useful, which will highlight the issue - how to make a table top.
All we need for work is a few bedside tables and boards, covering the necessary space with their long length. In this project, you can use homemade bedside tables, how to make them you can find in the articles - bedside table and dresser conversion into a bedside table, or just buy ready-made ones in the store.
Step one. Cleanup.
We bought three pine boards, each 3 meters long. We take a grinder and carefully, every corner is processed with sandpaper. First, use coarse sandpaper, then fine. Particular attention should be paid to the corners that will go to the workplace.
Step two. Morim.
We take a water-based stain and paint the surface of the future countertop. Any brush with hard or soft bristles will work great on the surface.
Step three. Drying.
About a day the boards will dry while they are still in the process of drying - a completely different color is visible than after drying. If you are not satisfied with the tone, you can cover the boards with 1-2 more layers of stain, so the color of the board will be more pronounced and dark. But everything suited us.
Step four. Collective.
In order for the tabletop to have not only a reliable, but also a functional base, we chose bedside tables with drawers and shelves. Before we brought in the countertop, we placed the bedside tables at the required distances and began to fill them with accessories.
Step five. Fitting room.
And then we had the main problem, because of the narrow passage to the room, it was impossible to knock down the countertop from the boards on the street and bring it into the house. Therefore, I had to bring in each of the boards separately and assemble everything together already directly in the place where the table will stand permanently.
Step six. Screwed.
After each of the three boards has been installed in its rightful place, there are a few more important steps to follow. The first board lies exactly on the nightstand, we take it by the base and fasten it perpendicularly with the help of a small bar, alternately the 2nd and 3rd boards. We also screw an average three-meter board to the nightstand using an L-shaped corner.
In addition, the board that goes near the wall is screwed to a wooden support (pre-cut) in two places. Now the countertop is stable and safe everywhere.
So, from the application of a lot of effort, three nightstands and several pine boards, you will get an excellent work surface that can fit not only you, but also friends at the same table.
Although in general, if you have a lot of space to place a table, you should pay attention to the large Nostalgia library, there you will see a functional graceful table and many useful bedside tables for storing things. A good choice would also be the Siena Home cabinet, bright, beautiful and practical.
Interesting video. Invisible shelf.
The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.
This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.
Tool and workshop
To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.
The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:
- Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
- Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
- Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
- It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.
A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.
How to choose a tree?
A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:
The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.
Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.
At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.
On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.
Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.
wooden humpback
Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.
Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue
A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.
Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.
Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.
First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.
First steps
The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.
From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.
With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.
The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.
Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.
One step closer to art...
To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.
Connections and legs
At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.
For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.
Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.
Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.
Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses the table can be served / given out the window, therefore, in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.
For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.
Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.
tabletop
The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.
Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:
- The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
- Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
- The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
- Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
- The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.
Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a table top. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.
Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.
Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.
Underframe
The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.
no frame
Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.
... and get into the kitchen
Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.
All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.
If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.
The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.
Kruglyashi
A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is subject to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.
There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the table top made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.
Note: the idea of the senator-broom, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.
How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from a stump saw cut to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.
Moving on to the living room
The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not catch the eye for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.
The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.
A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.
All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:
Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.
How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.
The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.
Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.
The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.
For a strong feast
Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.
By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the tabletop (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.
There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the insert raises, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.
As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.
But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - see the left in fig. at the beginning.
In addition
A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.
Video: wood glazing master class
The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distributing and dining tables; on them the remnants of food and food were preserved. In this article, we will see how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial carpentry skills, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. In kitchen tables, the most common types of furniture connections are used, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and wrap a screw.
The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here much less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the entire interior. Samples of the original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for DIY, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, which we will try to help the reader with.
There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table, including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, we, firstly, will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the lowest costs of labor, money and time.
Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular table for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and you need to serve it on the table over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already belongs to the category of parodies on the rules of good taste. Like, how should you tilt the plate when eating the soup: towards yourself or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour over, yourself or a tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular table of the same capacity, wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.
Dimensions and ergonomics
The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the table height of 750-760 mm is considered optimal. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.
The essence is in the very triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen are much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested her seductive forms on the cheek of the missus just when he raised the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for the eaters.
The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm. For singles, let's say a table 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it a wall-mounted folding one in the “microkitchen” or kitchen area of a small-sized odnushka, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen tabletop are (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the complexion of users.
What to do
Traditional kitchen table - on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsarg. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the legs of the table, and the tabletop is freely placed on them; those. its fastenings prevent only horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and stronger, but it is more difficult to bring it in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the sides are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. The countertop in this case needs a strong one and not from any suitable in the previous. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skid / carry out. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.
The table on the underframe can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - perfectly turns out from commercially available railing balusters (see below). The curly washed down tsarg for a novice master who knows how to handle an electric jigsaw is not a problem. There remains a mow - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the tsargs. For her, you can rent a manual milling machine with a milling cutter of a profile you like, with it the work on aiming the moulding takes less than an hour plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.
No less common in kitchens are tables of a beam structure, pos. 3. They are also in the simplest version (see 2 options below) more attractive than tables with underframes. However, a well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required to complete them in a high-end design (item 4). Beam tables require more material consumption, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).
Tables with a load-bearing top without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming table top (see below) will cost about 2500 rubles, and assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent manufacture of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.
Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6 initially made a splash due to its compactness when folded and the possibility of using it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the latch of the swivel support was the simplest, from a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the table top. The outer faces of the bars were often removed on a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the countertop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, without a hodgepodge with meatballs and mashed potatoes on trousers and the floor, such tables could not do, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers improve this, in principle, very promising design, to which a special section will be further devoted in this publication.
Wall-mounted folding tables, (pos. 7), are occasionally found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors, who are used to doing everything standing up, even sleeping on the carpet in front of the authorities, because. have all the shortcomings of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to mentioning them.
Technological subtleties and innovations
The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage during drying: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary commercial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack even when impregnated and under varnish. On the other hand, the size of the kitchen table is small. From this follow some features of its manufacture, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.
tabletop
This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a finished postforming tabletop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard with rounded ribs, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to the kitchen table are as follows:
Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, tabletops cohesive from boards look more solid, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Rallying boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work; for this, special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try your hand at making solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:
How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:
How to make a shield kitchen table top:
How to make a tabletop from the end cuts of a tree:
In the last video, the material is junk, but the appearance can be achieved - the cool oligarchs will salivate.
Dowels, confirmations and dowels
Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, we recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because. often break. Joints with wooden dowels are usually glued.
It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for a dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to redo an incorrectly marked dowel connection, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products on furniture euroscrews - confirmations. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because. the hole for confirmation in both parts, compressed by a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.
Details made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected by confirmers, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:
- Use exactly furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first sight: in furniture slots for a hexagon, and in plumbing for a Phillips screwdriver.
- The diameter of the body of the confirmation without thread when fastened to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
- The height of the neck of the confirmation must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
- The depth of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
- The hole (blind hole) for confirmation is drilled to its full length with a head.
- The main drill should only be used with a twist drill for wood.
- The main drill must be filled into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
- Holes for confirmations should be drilled with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation on the thread.
In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:
- By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmant without thread;
- There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, you can determine the required size. It is better to immediately open the pictures on request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
- We are looking for a point of sale where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
- We say: "I need so much of such and such a size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.
And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely imposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a rounded head or dowels with a hat and various types of corrugation on the long recessed and short protruding parts are produced, see fig. on right. Thick worktops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.
Different tables
Classic
Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is rather complicated and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for head balusters, usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions in plan up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection with wood screws obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer faces of the tsarg should be 1.5 cm from the outer surfaces of the leg caps, which is necessary for overall strength. The minimum allowable height of the kitchen table tsarg is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.
It is highly desirable to reinforce the oblique connection with self-tapping screws with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the countertop is not supposed to be removed without extreme necessity, then the time-consuming putting it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, cuts of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.
The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Worktops made of other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between their thermal expansion modules and wood, the table will soon loosen.
Further, the drawers are attached to the countertop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with carpentry glue or PVA. With the help of conventional wood screws, it is difficult to achieve accurate assembly, because. they are without a neck that holds the joint from displacement.
The next moment - the jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are necessary, wooden mortise or ready-made steel invoices. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual way, on the right in fig.
Desk drawer
A drawer is a classic constructive module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the drawer of the table are taken the same as for the drawers of the nightstand, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not foreseen in this case, and the smooth running of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.
The device of a furniture box is shown on the left in fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws in the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the side of the box is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fixed with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or go flush into it, it doesn't matter.
To install the drawer in the table, in the longitudinal front drawer, an opening is cut out according to the cross-sectional dimensions of the drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed for attaching the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal sides from the inside with the help of backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it to the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. rail parts, push the box into place, that's all.
Very simple
A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the section of the tsarg is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop - any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse screeds made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam.
Beam
Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.
In this product, the lower dressing (longitudinal screed) with a beveled through groove for the wedge may seem like a stumbling block to a beginner. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom dressing is assembled on glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How beam kitchen tables of this type are made, you can watch the following video:
Video: do-it-yourself table by components
The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm or more, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided under the countertop, and it can also be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the tabletop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the countertop for cleaning. So is it rustic or modern, is it a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.
Without pedestal
Factory kitchen tables without table tops are usually produced with postforming worktops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will face the following tricks.
First, a table-top is still needed, from a wooden bar from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that the mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg clip must be tense approximately the same, otherwise the fastening will loosen by itself. The strapping from the timber expands the stress fan in this place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace the continuous strapping with corner plates, there will be no sense from them.
The second is the material of the countertop. The standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (item 3) are designed for chipboard or dense thin-layered wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. layered rather soft wood, then the nests can, having broken the layers, crawl back already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone inadvertently pushes the table is close to 100%.
And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy ready-made with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a kit for self-assembly at retail.
Books and cheburashki
The shortcomings of the table-book of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. On fig. below is a drawing of the design of the book-table (conditionally shown is only one swivel support without the wings of the tabletop), eliminating them amateurishly, but effectively. Simply, the width of the swivel support is more than doubled compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it has become comfortable to sit as you like. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the top bar of the support comes out of the simplest latch (see above), the knees must be pulled up so that it will be very uncomfortable. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.
A fundamentally similar solution was also used in the wall-mounted folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support already works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezium converging downwards.
A proprietary solution to the problems of a table-book is detachable legs stored in a cabinet. Putting them up is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the table top with a swivel support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because. it's just not needed.
The next step in the evolution of the book table is a design with a cabinet of greater width and 1 leg for each wing of the table top. The legs are half the size, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).
Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, built, and finally built." Folding kitchen table, as it should be.
Alternative
If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can also eat on it. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into a functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-meter kitchenette in the bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9-meter Brezhnevka kitchen. Can't believe it? Let's count.
The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To land the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table of 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of "living space", and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick slice into a kitchen of ordinary sizes without crushing the functional triangle softly. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not violated, and the hostess is just a stone's throw away.
One of the famous culinary specialists once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our stomach, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometimes there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.
