Chrysanthemums in the garden: how to plant, propagate and care. How to plant a chrysanthemum in a perennial spring At what temperature can chrysanthemums be planted

Planting perennial garden chrysanthemums in open ground in autumn and spring: care and cultivation in the garden. Garden chrysanthemum can rightfully be called one of the most beautiful autumn perennials that bloom until frost and have a unique tart aroma.

This beautiful flower brings a lot of bright joy in the dark days of autumn. However, many summer residents think in vain that in the middle lane it can only be grown as an annual or indoor container plant.

What you will learn from this article:

• 1 Varieties and varieties of chrysanthemums
• 2 Ways to propagate chrysanthemums
  • 2.1 Sowing seeds
  • 2.2 Division of the bush
  • 2.3 Cuttings
• 3 Planting dates for chrysanthemums
• 4 How to plant chrysanthemums in open ground
  • 4.1 Place to land
  • 4.2 Soil
  • 4.3 Direct landing
• 5 Care for chrysanthemums in the open field
  • 5.1 Watering
  • 5.2 Top dressing
  • 5.3 Shaping, cutting and trimming
  • 5.4 Winterizing
  • 5.5 Diseases and pests

Varieties and varieties of chrysanthemums

Conventionally, all chrysanthemums can be divided into 2 types:

• Large-flowered (Indian) - depending on the variety, the diameter of the inflorescences can be about 10-25 centimeters;

• Small-flowered (Korean) - the diameter of the inflorescences is from 2 to 9 centimeters.

As a rule, perennial Korean varieties are planted and grown in our gardens, which winter well (but better with additional shelter). And the most popular are spherical garden chrysanthemums (multiflora).

Large-flowered varieties are most often used for commercial purposes, i.e. for cutting and making bouquets, because they need warmer conditions, obviously not the middle zone or the Urals and Siberia, where they simply freeze out.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums

Indian and Korean chrysanthemums

Methods for propagating chrysanthemums

Basically, garden chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing the bush or cuttings, in other words, by vegetative methods. But often it is also grown from seeds.

By the way! Large-flowered and small-flowered (Korean) species reproduce identically.

Sowing seeds

Perennial chrysanthemums can be sown with seeds, but varietal characteristics will not be preserved during the collection of planting material and its re-sowing. If you still decide to buy seeds, then it is better to first sow them for seedlings (in February-March), dive in the phase of two true leaves, and when the threat of return frosts has passed, plant them in the ground (or pot). And then by autumn you can get flowering bushes. In addition, you can try to land by direct sowing in open ground in May-June.

How to grow chrysanthemum seedlings from seeds

The division of the bush

Once every 2-3 years, the root system of the garden chrysanthemum grows excessively, begins to degenerate, the flowers become smaller, so the plant should be rejuvenated, that is, divided.

Dividing a plant is quite simple: you need to carefully dig out the bushes and divide them into several copies (with your hands, pruners or even a shovel). Then plant them in separate holes and shade with non-woven material from the sun (stick 4 sticks and throw cover on them) so that they do not burn while being taken.

Transplanting chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

cuttings

It is convenient to cut chrysanthemums during autumn pruning. To do this, you will need to cut, and it is better to break out 5-8 centimeter shoots (the flowers themselves must be cut off, leave only a couple of leaves), which can be rooted either in a glass with or in a common container in a special one (from peat and sand or in a mixture of perlite with the same peat) and cover with a plastic bag to create a greenhouse effect.

When the roots appear on the plant (after 2-3 weeks), they should be planted in separate containers. In winter, young seedlings should be kept in a cool place (+4..+6 degrees) and do not forget to water if necessary. When planting cuttings in the spring, it is desirable to shade them for the first time (weeks 2), for example, by making a canopy from spunbond.

Cuttings of chrysanthemums in autumn

Cuttings of chrysanthemums in spring

Advice! You can also cut chrysanthemums from a presented bouquet.

How to root chrysanthemums from a bouquet - cuttings and results

Planting dates for chrysanthemums

Depending on the method of reproduction, the timing differs when it is better to sow, transplant (divide) or cut chrysanthemums.

So, sow seeds chrysanthemums for seedlings are best in early spring (even in February-March), or in open ground in May, when the earth warms up enough (but then flowering should be expected only next year).

Cutting chrysanthemum bushes best in autumn during regular pruning, but keeping them in winter is quite difficult, and they often die, so better do it anyway spring, the survival rate in this case is much higher.

The division of the bush and transplantation of chrysanthemums can be done both in the second half of spring, when the threat of age-related frosts has passed (in April-May), and at the end of summer - early autumn (in August-September), so that the bushes have time to take root in a new place before the cold snap.

How to plant chrysanthemums in open ground

In order to eliminate all problems with the growth and development of garden perennial chrysanthemums in the open field, you need to remember about choosing the right place, as well as the soil for planting.

Place to land

For the successful cultivation of chrysanthemums in the garden, it is very important to choose the right place for planting. If possible, this should be the sunniest site in the country. The plant does not like constant drafts, but it does not like stagnation of air, so the place must be ventilated. It is optimal to choose more or less elevated areas, hillocks, slopes, since it is impossible to allow the root system to be constantly flooded with water.

Garden perennial chrysanthemum is ideal for creating living borders, that is, for decoration, as well as creating beautiful compositions around the house.

The soil

This flowering perennial will grow without problems in loose (moisture permeable) and fertile soil. The acidity of the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. The optimal soil for planting garden chrysanthemum is well-drained loamy or sandy loam.

If the soil is sandy, then the landing site should be well dug up and filled with compost or humus.

If your soil is heavy, moisture does not pass well (and its stagnation has a very negative effect on the perennial), then you should make good drainage by pouring a little sand on the bottom.

Direct landing

So you bought a bush (seedling in a bag with earth) of a garden chrysanthemum in the fall (or divided the mother bush, sprouted cuttings), chose a suitable day (preferably cloudy), either early morning or late evening. It's time to plant it.

Step-by-step instructions for planting chrysanthemums in open ground:

• Decide on a place, prepare a landing hole (usually 30-40 cm deep).
• If necessary, make drainage (put a little sand on the bottom of the hole).
• Put a bush, straighten the roots.

• Fill with fertile soil and compact well so that the roots are in good contact with the ground.
• Trim the bush by 1/3 or even leave a small stump. Now it is important that the roots take root.
• Water generously.

• Mulch with peat or humus.

Important! If you plant several bushes at once, then the distance between them should be about 30-50 centimeters. Remember that the bushes grow very strongly.

How to plant chrysanthemums in autumn

Care of chrysanthemums in the open field

It is hardly possible to call a chrysanthemum an unpretentious plant, on the contrary, it requires constant care. Therefore, in order to get beautiful bushes, these perennial flowers must be watered, fed, shaped (cut and cut), transplanted and propagated (divided and cuttings) and covered for the winter.

Important! And tall, as a rule, large-flowered (but small-flowered ones are also tall) chrysanthemums must also be tied to pegs so that they do not lie down or even worse break off.

Watering

The plant can be called moisture-loving, but it should not be waterlogged (in spring, natural moisture, as a rule, will be enough for it).

Advice! After planting (planting a rooted cutting) or transplanting (dividing) chrysanthemums in spring, young seedlings should be moderately watered periodically.

At the height of summer (June-July), the garden perennial requires abundant watering, since the process of bud formation occurs during this period. As soon as flowering begins (usually in August), watering should be reduced. With a lack of moisture, the stems of the plant will become woody and stop branching.

Important! Chrysanthemums must be watered exclusively at the root. Crown sprinkling is prohibited. Of course, if possible, it is desirable to use rain or settled water, and loosen after each watering so that a dry crust does not form.

top dressing

Chrysanthemums are fed according to the standard scheme:

• In early spring, nitrogen fertilizers - to start the growth of green mass (for example, infusion of mullein in a ratio of 1 to 10 or chicken manure (1 to 15).
• In summer, during budding with potassium-phosphorus (more potassium) fertilizers - for a richer and more lush flowering (for example, wood ash).
• In autumn - phosphorus-potassium (more phosphorus). Phosphorus has a good effect on strengthening the root system, which is necessary during the preparation of the plant for wintering.

There are special complex fertilizers for chrysanthemums for the entire growing season.

And if you still growing roses, then you will need such a fertilizer.

Note! Top dressing must be performed only after watering and only under the root, in no case falling on the leaves, otherwise the fertilizer can cause burns in them.

Shaping, cutting and trimming

If you want to get spherical chrysanthemum bushes, then they should do such a haircut in the spring. It is recommended to pinch the top (main shoot) every year after 5-6 leaves, when it reaches 10-12 centimeters. Similarly, side shoots should be shortened. All these activities should be carried out before budding begins.

By the way! Chrysanthemum multiflora independently grows in the form of a ball. It should only be pinched once, when 2 pairs of leaves appear on the shoots, then it will form itself.

If you are growing large-flowered chrysanthemums for cutting (for bouquets), then you should leave 2-3 stems, on which large buds and inflorescences will appear. It is also important not to forget to stepson them, timely removing the shoots that appear from the axils of the leaves.

Formation of a chrysanthemum bush

For the winter, in the small-flowered (Korean) variety, of course, the entire upper part is cut off and a small stump is left (about 10 centimeters).

Preparing for winter

Some flower growers are afraid that even their small-flowered chrysanthemum can freeze in winter, so in the middle of autumn (October) the near-stem circle should be mulched with a thick 10 cm layer of peat or compost, and already at the end of autumn (November) cover the plant, for example, with spunbond or dry leaves, can be hay, and even better spruce branches.

Note! There is no point in warming and sheltering large-flowered chrysanthemums, since they do not hibernate in open ground. They need to be dug up and transferred to storage before spring planting.

At the same time, Korean specimens can also be simply transplanted into pots and transferred to wintering in the basement or on the veranda, or they can also be buried in a polycarbonate greenhouse at soil level and additionally covered.

By the way! Read more about autumn care for chrysanthemums, their preparation for winter (shelter and digging-storage). in this article.

How to save chrysanthemums in winter: the right shelter

Diseases and pests

One of the most common troubles that happens to a chrysanthemum is the first appearance white plaque, and then at all blackening and death of its leaves. All this points to the disease of garden perennials. powdery mildew. Frequent rains and, as a result, waterlogging, dense plantings, temperature fluctuations are the most favorable environment for the development of this disease. To restore the plant to its former beauty, it should be sprinkled a couple of times with preparations containing copper in their basis (for example, or liquid).

Often attacks chrysanthemums aphids and thrips, in this case, you will need to treat garden perennials with one of the special insecticidal preparations, for example, Aktara or.

Planting perennial garden chrysanthemums in open ground in autumn and spring: care and cultivation in the garden video

If you are nevertheless imbued with the idea of ​​​​planting and growing a bush garden perennial chrysanthemum in your summer cottage, focus on the features of care and its reproduction. And then you will be able to amaze all the neighbors with the splendor of an autumn flower.

Features of the care and reproduction of spray chrysanthemums

Where to buy seeds and seedlings with delivery

The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums, planting and caring for these flowers in the open field is not particularly difficult, but requires compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, and to propagate a plant in the fall, check out the main points. If you don’t know how to form a beautiful bush with a ball, then remember that you need pinching and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will need only a single pinching ...

Methods and timing of reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are annuals - they are grown annually from seeds, and perennials - they can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, queen cells or dividing the bush. Chrysanthemums are planted in spring and autumn, each season has its own advantages:

1. seeds sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow by 10 cm, they are pinched. Chrysanthemums are blooming in autumn
2. cuttings- a very popular way to propagate chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting off a cutting even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in a soil consisting of sand and peat. The box covered with glass is kept in a cool place, not higher than +15°С. When the roots appear, the plants are seated in separate pots and then, with the end of frost, in open ground. If you purchased a cutting of the desired variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring
3. mother liquor- this is an overwintered chrysanthemum rhizome from which shoots will go, it can be purchased and planted in early spring
4. The division of the bush- the only way to plant chrysanthemums in the autumn, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several copies with secateurs and seated. This procedure is supposed to be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.

Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn

Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field differ in spring and autumn - during spring planting, mother liquors and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose a flowering bush and not be mistaken with its appearance.

In very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed oak - this species combines many varieties zoned in the middle lane and the Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of the cold and freeze easily.

For chrysanthemums choose a sunny, preferably elevated place. Flowers do not like stagnant moisture, so waterlogged soil is drained by adding a layer of coarse river sand to the planting hole. The soil is preferably slightly acidic or neutral, light and loose. Too dense - mixed with peat, humus or rotted compost.

Chrysanthemum plants are placed every 30-50 cm. A shallow hole is dug so that the shoots on the mother liquor or two-thirds of the cuttings are not covered with earth, when dividing the bush, this is about 40 cm. No more than 0.5 kg of humus or compost is added to the hole. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the flowers will be small, and only foliage will be lush. It is recommended to water the roots with a stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin), and then fill it with soil and compact it. After spring planting, it is advisable to cover the cuttings from the sun with a spunbond for a couple of weeks.

When planting in the autumn, the chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly, this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, due to which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut and a third of the stems are left so that the nutrients go to the development of the root system.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, top dressing, pruning, shelter

Chrysanthemum does not tolerate stagnant moisture, but loves watering - without water, the stems become stiff, the flowers become smaller. At the same time, the flower does not tolerate sprinkling, you need to water it under the root, preferably with rain or settled water. The earth after watering is loosened to avoid crusting.

In the spring, chrysanthemums need nitrogen fertilizing for rapid growth, it can be done 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of chrysanthemum budding, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthen plants before wintering. In autumn, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties are tied up, as their fragile stems can break.

The beginning of frosts is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut off in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or foliage. The most tender varieties are wrapped on top with a covering material and something flat is placed on top to protect it from moisture - for example, a plywood shield. Some growers dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar over the winter to make sure the variety is preserved.

How to create globular chrysanthemum bushes

For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field is not all that is needed, and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.

Chrysanthemums are cut and pinched after winter to get a beautiful spherical bush. There is a variety in which the bush itself grows in the form of a ball, without needing to be formed - this is a multiflora chrysanthemum, a low-growing bush up to 20 cm in height - when two pairs of leaves appear on the shoot, they pinch it, and then the ball forms itself.

Multiflora can be grown not only in a flower bed, but also in a pot. But, at the end of flowering, the aerial part of the plant is cut off and sent to rest - in a dark, cool place, for the whole winter. Periodically, sleeping chrysanthemums are watered so that the roots do not dry out. In February, the first sprouts appear, which means that the plant has woken up, and it's time to get it out of the basement. If a spherical chrysanthemum grows in a flower bed, the stems should be cut to 10 cm and covered with sawdust and non-woven material for the winter.

Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers; when planting, add more humus and wood ash to the hole. If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil with 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is soddy land.

It is possible to form a ball from other types of chrysanthemums, in small- and medium-flowered ones, the main shoot is pinched when it reaches 10-12 cm, then the side shoots that have grown to the same length are cut off, after that they actively branch, pinching is done until buds appear.

In large-flowered species of chrysanthemums, stems 15 cm long are cut, in total, one or two pinchings are carried out no later than June, in addition, they are stepchildren - from mid-July, shoots appearing from the axils of the leaves are removed daily, and starting from August - every three days, then you can get a spherical bush with large flowers with a diameter of up to 10 cm.

It is difficult to imagine an autumn flower garden without perennial chrysanthemums. Their multicolor pleases the eye when the leaves on the trees have already flown around, and there are simply no other garden flowers. Planting and caring for perennial chrysanthemums have their own nuances, but they do not present any particular difficulties.

Varieties and types

These perennial plants with flowers collected in baskets differ in both the height of the bushes and the size of the flowers, and their color.

Chrysanthemum alpine.

These are shrubby chrysanthemum flowers. View for placement on an alpine hill, since the height of the plant does not exceed 14 cm. Its leaves are pinnately dissected gray-green, the flowers look like single baskets with a diameter of 3 to 5 cm. Flowering in mid-summer. Winters without shelter.

Chrysanthemum Korean.

It is this chrysanthemum that is most often grown in regions with frosty winters. Despite the fact that she comes from southern countries (Korea, Japan, China), the ups and downs of our climate withstand well, although she needs shelter.

Interesting varieties included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements:

• Altyn I. The bush is not higher than 60 cm. It bears yellow double flowers up to 8 cm in diameter on strong peduncles. Begins to bloom in mid-August. Blooms profusely and lasts more than 2 months.
• Dina. Bush about 45 cm high. Flowering begins after August 10th. The flowers are white, 8 cm in diameter. Flowering is very long - up to 70 days.
• Zemfira. Blooms at the end of July. It blooms for almost 3 months with medium-sized and non-double flowers of light pink color.
• Autumn dreams. It blooms for almost 3 months with yellow semi-double flowers with a diameter of 7.5 cm.

There are also varieties that have not been tested, but no less interesting:

• Bacon. Bright red flowers on a bush up to 85 cm high bloom in September. They are terry, have a diameter of 5 cm.
• Evening lights. Inflorescences are simple red with a yellow ring.
• Orange sunset. Flowers are double, large (up to 11 cm), orange. Bush about 80 cm high.
• Malchish-Kibalchish. A short plant, not higher than 35 cm. It blooms with simple pink flowers at the end of summer.
• Umka. Tall, up to 110 cm, the bush is decorated with large pompon flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, white or slightly pinkish.
• Stranger. Winter-hardy variety, flowering from the end of July. White at first, large flowers gradually turn lilac at the tips.
• Inspiration. Flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, double, fragrant. Bloom in September. They are winter hardy.

A special place is occupied by border garden chrysanthemums. Their bushes do not grow above 30 cm and take a spherical shape without any shaping.

The best varieties:

• Talisman - flowers of beet-raspberry color;
• Barbara with lilac-purple flowers.

Perennial chrysanthemums: the nuances of growing

Chrysanthemum is a southerner and few species have been able to adapt to our climate. Beautiful large-flowered varieties can only be grown in the south. Even more frost-resistant Korean chrysanthemums can freeze in snowless winters. A feature of plants is that they do not like wet wintering, so drainage is required for them. Another nuance - the chrysanthemum bush is short-lived and requires updating every 3 years.

Landing in open ground

In open ground, you need to grow varieties adapted for frosty winters. It is best to grow, bloom and overwinter zoned varieties and grown from seeds.

Soil preparation and site

A place for chrysanthemums is chosen sunny, fully lit throughout the day. Even a slight shading will inevitably affect flowering, and the stems of plants will stretch. It is also necessary to provide protection from the wind. The site should not be dry, but this flower also does not tolerate stagnant water.

The soil for chrysanthemums must meet the following requirements:

• be loose, any mechanical composition is suitable, except for heavy clay;
• pass water and air well;
• have a slightly acidic reaction, so it is useful to add peat to the planting pit;
• be fertile - flowering will be poor on lean soils.

Under digging for each square. m contribute up to 20 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 30 g of urea. On heavy soils, sand is added for drainage.

You can not bring fresh manure under chrysanthemums - plants do not tolerate it.

How and when to plant?

Usually chrysanthemums are on sale in the fall, it is at this time that their flowering and compliance with varietal characteristics are visible. They come in pots, so they need to be repotted. But in autumn it is better not to disturb the flowers, otherwise attacks in winter are inevitable. The plant gives all its strength to flowering, and they simply will not remain for rooting. The best time to plant chrysanthemums is spring. In the southern regions, it is carried out at the end of April or in May, and in the northern regions it will be necessary to wait for the end of the return spring frosts.

• Plants are planted in holes 40 cm deep, at the bottom of which drainage must be placed.
• A handful of humus is added to each well and the soil is well shed. Chrysanthemums do not bury when planting.
• The distance between plants is about 40 cm, between rows - 50 cm.
• It is necessary to provide support for the bushes in the form of strong pegs, to which the plants are tied.

Chrysanthemum Care

In order for the plants to be healthy and bloom well, they need to be properly looked after. The first thing they do after rooting the cuttings is to pinch the top for better tillering. After 3 weeks, the pinching is repeated, forming a spherical shape of the bush. If the cuttings are received late, this operation is not necessary, such chrysanthemums are grown in a single-stem culture. During the growing season, regular weeding, loosening the soil, watering and top dressing will be required.

Watering the plant

Chrysanthemums are sensitive to a lack of moisture, the stems become stiff from this, and full flowering cannot be obtained. Excess water is also harmful - it contributes to root rot. Therefore, you need to achieve the golden mean and focus on weather conditions. Watering is especially needed in dry weather and during flowering. Watered with settled water and only under the root.

Top dressing and fertilizer

Chrysanthemums require both mineral and organic fertilizing.

1. Every 2-3 weeks they are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizer. In the first half of the growing season with a predominance of nitrogen, in the second - phosphorus and potassium at the rate of 40 g per ten-liter bucket (this amount is enough for 2 sq. M of plantings).
2. 3 times per season, top dressing is carried out with mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:10. Each plant will require a liter of solution.

All top dressings are combined with watering with clean water. The next day, the soil needs to be loosened.

Care after flowering and preparation for winter

This is the time to prepare for winter. For wintering to be successful, a number of activities must be carried out.

• Plants are fed with phosphate and potash fertilizers.
• The bushes are pruned, leaving about 15 cm of the stem.
• Spud with earth brought from another part of the site, so as not to expose the roots.
• Fall asleep with a layer of dry leaves up to 40 cm thick.
• They are covered on top with a material that retains snow - spruce branches or dry branches.

Transfer

Chrysanthemums are short-lived. In the third year, the middle of the bush falls out, and the flowers become smaller.

To renew the bushes and give them a new life, the chrysanthemum is divided and seated in a new place.

Transplant time is spring. The bush must be carefully dug, shaking off the ground a little. Divide plants with a sharp knife. Each division should have buds and roots. Further actions are the same as when planting cuttings.

Reproduction of perennial chrysanthemum

Perennial garden chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing the bush, cuttings and sowing seeds. The latter plants will be best adapted to the climate in the growing area.

1. Seeds for seedlings are sown in early March in a store-bought or self-prepared mixture of the following composition: garden soil, peat and humus in equal amounts.
2. Drainage is laid at the bottom of the sowing tank.
3. Seeds of perennial chrysanthemum are sown superficially, slightly pressing them to the ground.
4. The container is covered with a plastic bag and placed in a bright place with a temperature of 25 degrees.

Immediately after the emergence of seedlings, the package is not removed, but it is done gradually, accustoming the plants to fresh air. When the shoots acquire two real leaves, they dive into separate cups.

Seedling conditions:

• temperature 18 degrees;
• a lot of light, if necessary - additional illumination;
• top dressing every 14 days with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.

Seedlings are planted in the ground after frost, trying to preserve the roots as much as possible.

During seed propagation, parental characteristics are not preserved.

For spring cuttings, you need to dig up the plant in the fall, plant it in a pot and take care of it in winter like an indoor flower. Cuttings are harvested from young shoots 5 cm long, removing the lower leaves. Planted in a container with sand under a glass jar. After rooting, the cuttings are grown and planted in the ground.

Plant diseases and pests

When growing garden perennial chrysanthemums, you may encounter some diseases.

Fungal diseases:

• gray rot (brown spots on the leaves, covered with a gray bloom);
• powdery mildew (white coating);
• rust (small spots of chlorosis).

All of them are treated with copper-containing fungicides, and colloidal sulfur is also effective against rust.

Viral diseases:

• mosaic (speckled spots on the leaves);
• aspermia (deformed flowers and speckled leaves);
• dwarfism (small growth, not corresponding to the variety, premature flowering).

There is no cure, diseased plants are destroyed.

The main pests of chrysanthemums: nematodes, meadow bugs, aphids. In the first case, pest control is impossible. The plant is destroyed. As a preventive measure, the earth is shed with a solution of phosphamide. From bedbugs and aphids, you can try treatment with infusions of onion peel or hot pepper. If this does not help, treat the plants with insecticides.

From mid-summer until the very frosts, many household plots, summer cottages and front gardens are decorated with bright garden chrysanthemum bushes. The plant blooms even when many flowers have already withered after the first frost. Even the most experienced gardeners are amazed at the variety of flower colors, types and shapes. You can learn about the varieties and features of growing the "Queen of Autumn" by reading our article. And photos of chrysanthemums will help you choose the types of flower suitable for the garden.

Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums with a photo

Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant, the height of which depends on the species and can be from 15 to 150 cm. Currently, a large number of varieties of chrysanthemums are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.

The size of the inflorescences

Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups according to the diameter of flowers:

• small-flowered;
• mid-flowered;
• large-flowered.

Small-flowered or Korean plants can be simple and double. A large number of inflorescences grows on one bush with a flower diameter of 2-10 cm. The bushes themselves can reach a height of 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant have the shape of oak leaves. Flowers are frost-resistant, undemanding to the composition of the soil and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and continues until frost.

Medium-flowered or decorative chrysanthemums can be grown not only for garden decoration, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can decorate balconies, loggias and terraces. Ornamental bushes grow up to 30-70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10-18 cm.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are showy tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm. They bloom in large flowers with a diameter of 10-25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost. Only some of its varieties can winter in open ground. Such flowers are intended mainly for cutting into bouquets.

The shape and height of the bush

According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.

Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be very tall and require support in the form of frames, metal nets or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during planting bushes. Plants planted in a group can be used as hedges. Most popular varieties tall garden chrysanthemums are:

1. "Amber Lady" - the plant is distinguished by inflorescences of a golden hue.
2. "Umka" - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
3. "Daughter of Rosetta" strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers of pink and white.

Medium height. Bushes growing up to 30-50 cm look very impressive both in a flower bed and along paths, fences, arbors. With their help, you can realize various design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are considered:

1. "Dawn" - the plant has a yellow-brown color, which is just right for the autumn mood.
2. "Dune" is a truly magical variety, the flowers of which can change their color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they become yellow-gold.
3. "Lily" will help to add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson colors.

Border. Plants of small size grow up to only 30 cm. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Bushes of curb chrysanthemums have the shape of a ball strewn with small flowers. The most popular varieties in this group are:

1. "Barbara" - a plant with delicate lilac-purple flowers.
2. "Evening Lights" - the variety is distinguished by scarlet inflorescences that resemble a festive salute.
3. "Talisman" is strewn with bright beet-raspberry flowers.

flower shape

Garden chrysanthemums have five different types of flower shapes:

Garden chrysanthemums - planting and care

Landing features

Chrysanthemums love sunny areas. The plant needs a lot of light to form flower buds. Even in partial shade, chrysanthemums will not bloom.

The soil should be rich in organic matter. Therefore, during digging, one bucket of manure, compost or peat must be added per square meter of soil. You do not need to add more organic matter, otherwise only leaves will grow rapidly on the bush, and the plant will bloom with very small flowers.

Care rules

When caring for a garden chrysanthemum, special attention should be paid to watering it, since the plant depends on soil moisture level. You need to water the bushes in a timely manner, otherwise the flower will throw off all the buds.

The volume of water for watering one bush depends on its characteristics. Plants with small hard leaves can be watered less often than bushes with soft large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture.

Chrysanthemums respond well to top dressing. For this, complex mineral fertilizers containing magnesium and potassium, and organic fertilizers in the form of humates are used. During the active growth of green mass, the plant is fed with nitrogen.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums includes the formation of a bush. It needs to be done regularly pinch and cut. For the first time, the top of the plant is removed when the central shoot grows to 10 cm. After a while, when the side shoots grow to 10 cm, the crown is also pinched off. After that, the bush grows until flowering.

During the period when the chrysanthemum blooms, faded and withered buds should be regularly removed from its bush. In this way, the flowering period can be extended.

If you want to get large beautiful flowers, you can make a total pruning of the side shoots. As a result, only one stem and one peduncle will remain on the bush. All the forces of the plant will go to the formation and growth of the flower.

Caring for a garden chrysanthemum in winter

In order for a plant planted in the garden to bloom just as beautifully and profusely the next year, you need to make sure that it winters well.

In frosty winters even cold-resistant varieties require shelter. Therefore, after flowering, the stems of the bushes are cut to the ground. The plant is spudded and covered with fallen leaves.

Chrysanthemums with large flowers are afraid of sub-zero temperatures. Therefore, they need to be dug together with an earthen clod and planted in a suitable container. Plants are stored until planting in the spring in a room with a temperature of 0-5 degrees. Caring for them consists in rare watering of an earthen coma, which should not dry out.

Diseases and pests of perennial chrysanthemums

With proper care, the plant is rarely affected by pests and practically does not get sick. However, the bushes need to be inspected regularly in order to identify the problem as early as possible and start treating the plant. The threat to garden chrysanthemums is:

1. Spider mite is a pest that sucks juice from a plant. It can be detected by spider web formations on the reverse side of the leaf. If the leaves of the chrysanthemum turn gray-brown, begin to darken and fall off, then most likely a tick has settled on it. The plant must be treated with special chemicals.
2. Leaf nematodes - the disease is manifested by deformation of the leaves, and their darkening between the veins. In this case, you need to change the soil and cut off the damaged areas.
3. Verticillosis is an infectious disease that penetrates through the roots. Therefore, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither from the bottom of the bush. In the initial stages, spraying with biological products will help.
4. Powdery mildew first affects the leaves and buds, on which a white coating appears. The affected parts of the plant are removed, and the bush itself is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Reproduction of bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum can be reproduce in three ways:

• dividing the bush;
• seeds;
• cuttings.

The division of the bush

Shrubs can be divided in the spring, but only after the threat of frost has passed. In order for chrysanthemums to bloom better, their bushes are recommended to be divided every three years. To do this, the plant is carefully dug up and divided into several small bushes. The roots of the plant will need to be cut. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered.

seed propagation

In open ground sowing is done in May. For each future plant, a separate hole is dug, the distance between which should be 25 cm. 3-4 seeds are buried in one hole. For the first time, chrysanthemums should bloom at the end of summer.

cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is the easiest way, since chrysanthemums take root quickly and well.

1. A stalk with 3-4 leaves is cut off under the leaf pattern. Its length should be 6-8 cm.
2. The container is filled first with peat, and then with sand, into which the cutting sits.
3. The soil is sprayed, and the box is covered with glass.

The temperature for rooting should be between 13-15 degrees. When the roots appear, the cuttings will need to transplant into separate pots. Young bushes are planted in open ground only when frosts have passed.

By following the rules for planting and caring for a garden chrysanthemum, you can achieve beautiful and spectacular flowering during half of the summer and almost the entire autumn. Any part of the garden where the "Queen of Autumn" will grow will become a luxurious decoration of the garden.

Bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum is a genus of perennial garden flowers of the Compositae family. They are native to Asia and Northeast Europe. Most of the species originate from East Asia, with the greatest diversity in China, where chrysanthemums were grown from the 5th century BC, they came to Japan in the eighth century AD, and to England in the late 18th century.

Chrysanthemums are herbaceous plants with a woody stem or semi-shrubs, with erect stems, usually covered with fine pubescence (in some species they are naked). The leaves are alternate, entire or notched, with a serrated edge. The color of the foliage is green or light green. If you rub the leaves or break a branch, you feel a peculiar smell, sometimes quite tart, a characteristic difference between chrysanthemums and asters.

Inflorescences - baskets of small flowers of two types: central tubular, yellow, marginal flowers - reeds of a wide variety of colors. The fruit of the chrysanthemum is an achene.

Chrysanthemum classification

In the process of selection, simple inflorescences almost completely replaced semi-double and double ones, in which the inflorescence is a cap of multi-row reed flowers. But in addition to terry and simple inflorescences, there are other forms: anemone, tubular, Chinese, pion-shaped, pompom, decorative, arachnid, etc. Often the difference lies in the shape of reed flowers - in some varieties they are straight, in others they are slightly spiral.

Most often, perennial frost-resistant chrysanthemums of Korean selection are used for landscaping the garden, as the most unpretentious and frost-resistant, among the people they are often called ‘oak’ - in the form of leaves resembling oak leaves.

All varieties of chrysanthemums can be divided by flowering time into:

• Early flowering - bloom in late August. These varieties are usually short and dense bushes about 25-35 cm tall, used in borders.
• Medium-flowering - bloom in early September, mainly the average height of the bushes is 50-60 cm.
• Late flowering - bloom in late September, early October, mostly tall, up to 100 cm or more, require a garter.

The duration of flowering in chrysanthemums is more than a month. Low-growing varieties tend to have very decorative foliage, which allows the formation of multi-tiered flower beds that bloom from late summer to late autumn.

Place for planting garden chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums grow best and form the most flowers when planted in a sunny area. They need at least three hours of full sun per day.

They also require well-fertilized soil, enough moisture, but no frills. Chrysanthemums do not tolerate dry peaty or sandy soil - poor in mineral composition and not retaining moisture. But they also do not tolerate stagnation of water and dampness!

Ideally, they need light sandy soil, well seasoned with humus and organic matter. Like most garden flowers, chrysanthemums thrive in well-drained soils with plenty of organic matter, such as compost.

Landing

The soil in the flower beds for chrysanthemums must be prepared in advance: if it is heavy, clayey, add sand, humus, peat, you can measure it in buckets, take everything in equal parts. If the soil is light sandy - add loam, soddy soil and humus. Peat soils require serious improvement - they are poor and acidic, you need to make loam or soddy soil and humus.

All components introduced to improve the soil must be mixed well. The fertile soil layer should be at least 40 cm.

If you have a plot in a lowland or on a slope, before filling the beds at the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of drainage from crushed stone.

Another important indicator of soil quality that you should pay attention to when planting chrysanthemums is acidity. Changes in acidity or alkalinity can severely limit plant growth, weaken the root system, and even lead to death. Chrysanthemums prefer acidity of about 6.5, categorically not lower than 6.2. To increase the pH of the soil, you need to lime the soil, and to lower it (on saline soil), add iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate.

To deacidify the soil for chrysanthemums, dolomitic limestone is preferred because it contains magnesium and other minor amounts of nutrients. Hydrated lime is not desirable - it very quickly gives a reaction of changing acidity and, when combined with mineral fertilizers, blocks available phosphorus.

Chrysanthemums obtained from the division of an old bush, container chrysanthemums bought in a nursery, or rooted cuttings, are planted in rows depending on the size of the bushes: at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other undersized and medium-sized varieties, 45-50 cm - large varieties.

Chrysanthemum Care

Caring for chrysanthemums consists of regular watering, fertilizing, removing faded inflorescences, pruning extra branches and plucking buds. It is necessary in a timely manner - once every three years to rejuvenate old bushes.

How to water chrysanthemums

At the beginning of the growing season, chrysanthemums are watered about once a week, abundantly wetting the upper layers of the soil. In summer, as the temperature rises, the frequency of watering increases, it can be once or twice a week, according to the weather. By the time of flowering in September, watering is even more frequent - at least three times a week, but do not forget that frequent watering is acceptable only on well-drained soil!

top dressing

Chrysanthemums require a rich set of nutrients, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium and magnesium are needed in significant quantities, and small amounts of iron and manganese are also needed, less significant, but it is desirable to be part of fertilizers for chrysanthemums: boron, copper and zinc.

Nitrogen - this element promotes rapid leaf growth, but is most useful only at the beginning of the growing season, before the formation of inflorescences. Do not use nitrogen fertilizers after June! If this element is introduced in excess, especially when there is a lack of light, the plant forms weak stems and a sluggish root system, and it is very easy to get powdery mildew and other diseases.

Phosphorus is vital for the health of chrysanthemums, especially for stimulating the growth of roots and the maturation of stems; the frost resistance of plants and general immunity depend on the sufficiency of phosphorus. If you are applying phosphorus fertilizers, do not use double superphosphate, only ordinary, it is easier and more evenly distributed in the soil, contains from 18% to 20% of available phosphoric acid.

Potassium contributes to the formation of large inflorescences and dense woody stems. But if potassium is introduced in excess, for example, with ash, the foliage of chrysanthemums becomes very fragile, the stems are fibrous, do not hold moisture well and stand worse in cutting.

It is best to feed chrysanthemums with a complete complex fertilizer, for example, with the formula NPK 5-10-10, even better with the formula NPK 5-10-5:

• If chrysanthemums are planted in the current spring, two dressings per season are enough.
• If chrysanthemums were planted a year or two ago, feed them throughout the summer and once a month in the fall.

Since August, only phosphorus fertilizer.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds, cuttings and division, and can be purchased from potted chrysanthemum nurseries. Chrysanthemum seeds are propagated very rarely - grown plants do not retain varietal qualities, you can get completely unexpected shapes, colors and sizes.

If you want faster flowering, then you need to propagate by division. To do this, in the spring at the beginning of the season, when the plants start to grow, separate a part of the bush from the periphery of the mother plant with a shovel and plant it in a prepared flower bed filled with organic matter and complex fertilizer.

Old chrysanthemum bushes can be divided into several parts, leaving only the rather depleted middle.

Cuttings can be cut from chrysanthemums of any age. When the stem grows about 15-17 cm, cut off the top 10-14 cm, tear off the lower part of the leaves. You can dip the tip of the cutting into the root, although this is not necessary. But be sure to sterilize the soil in the pot.

Soil mix options for cuttings:

• coarse river sand and universal peat soil (from the store) in equal parts
• coarse river sand and vermiculite in equal parts
• coarse river sand and sphagnum moss in equal parts

The soil must be sterilized in the oven or steamed in the garden over steam, and then shed with a solution of phytosporin. Immerse the cutting in it with the part where the leaves were removed. You can root cuttings in large peat tablets.

Keep the soil moderately moist but not damp. And be sure to keep it warm - rooting requires a temperature of about 22-24 ° C and shading from direct sun.

It is possible to cut chrysanthemums during the summer, but not in the hottest time. Roots form in about two weeks. When you see that the stalk began to grow new leaves, everything went well. After the growth of young shoots by about 5 cm, young chrysanthemum bushes can be transplanted into flower beds by transshipment: without touching the root ball, remove from the pot and plant in prepared holes.

With any method of reproduction, cuttings or cuttings, if the weather is very sunny, you need to shade for 2-3 days. At the same time, rooted cuttings and young delenki bushes should not be dug into the ground in a flower bed to a depth greater than they were located on rooting in a pot or in an old place.

The first watering can be carried out with a solution of the zircon preparation.

After planting in a permanent place in the garden, the soil around the chrysanthemums must be mulched to prevent the roots from drying out and create a barrier to weeds. In addition, mulch protects the root system from overheating in the heat, and in winter from hypothermia.

Gradually, the mulch breaks down and forms humic acids, improving the quality of the soil - it becomes loose or crumbly. If you do not mulch the soil, then when planting chrysanthemums purchased in containers from the nursery, sprinkle them with earth 1.5-2 cm higher than the pot.

How to plant chrysanthemums in autumn

If you managed to purchase a chrysanthemum stalk or a container plant at the end of summer or autumn, you can plant them in flower beds until mid-September, so that they have time not only to take root in a new place, but also to grow enough root mass. If you miss the deadline, store the chrysanthemums in containers.

It is necessary to transplant the chrysanthemum from a store pot or cup where the cutting was rooted into a wide, but low container with universal flower soil. Do not cut immediately, just place the container in a moderately cool room. If you have an insulated balcony, you can grow chrysanthemums there until the end of October.

You can cut off the aerial part when the temperature is set at about +4 ° C. If sub-zero temperatures are not expected on your balcony, then nothing else needs to be done, only periodically - once a month or less often, water the plants a little, just enough so that the soil does not dry out completely.

If your temperature can drop a little below zero (the balcony is glazed, but not heated), prepare a large cardboard box and insulation material: sawdust, straw, dried sphagnum moss, a large wadded blanket.

With a cold snap (below + 3-4 ° C), place the container with chrysanthemum in a box, fill the gaps between the walls with sawdust, or lay batting, foam rubber. Focus on the thermometer. If necessary, cover with a blanket, stop watering, the soil should be dry. Cooling below -2°C is unacceptable. Those. the temperature on the balcony can drop below zero (up to minus 5-7°C), but in a pot with chrysanthemum it remains at least minus 2°C.

If you have a warm greenhouse in your garden, then in February-March you can move the flowers there, water as needed - the soil should not be constantly damp or dry out, only moderate moisture.

If there is a lot of planting material in the greenhouse, carry out preventive treatment against diseases - spray all plants with phytosporin or hang iodine pillows (wet tea bags with 0.5 ml of iodine each and hang them in 2-3 places in the greenhouse). The problem is that chrysanthemums are prone to fungal diseases, and greenhouses are poorly ventilated. Iodine fumes help to disinfect the air and keep the plants healthy until they are planted in flower beds in early May.

You can store chrysanthemums in the winter in the cellar or basement, if they are well ventilated, there is no high humidity and fungus on the walls.

Formation of a bush of chrysanthemums

At the beginning of the season, when the stems grow in spring, pinch them at a height of about 15-20 cm, about 2-3 cm from the top. This will force the plant to actively branch, and when the side branches grow another 15 cm, pinch the top 1.5-2 cm again. This pinching process should be completed 50-60 days before the expected flowering - early flowering can be pinched until July, medium and late flowering - till August.

The sizes of inflorescences in different varieties are different, large-flowered chrysanthemums have a basket diameter of 10 to 25 cm, they are grown in 2-3 stems, pinch and leave the largest inflorescences at the ends of the shoots - these are most often offered as cut flowers for bouquets, usually 1 on one branch -5 inflorescences.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums have a basket diameter of 2-9 cm, are usually grown in a bush form, and the inflorescences are not single baskets, but a complex corymb or panicle, on one branch there are 15-20 inflorescences.

Chrysanthemums in winter

At the end of autumn, with the death of the foliage, cut off the entire above-ground part of the plants at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground.

The cold resistance of chrysanthemums is different for different varieties, some are very frost-resistant, there are those that freeze out in central Russia and Siberia. If you buy seeds in a store or container seeds in a nursery, check whether the variety corresponds to the climate zone (it can be indicated from 3 to 9).

In any case, you need to prepare for harsh winters by covering the bushes in late autumn with a high layer of mulch from straw, sawdust, fallen leaves or spruce branches. If the root zone of old bushes has risen strongly from the initial level, you first need to mulch with peat, then straw, and then spruce branches.

If the place on your site is rather low, then prepare drainage grooves near the flower beds before sheltering - a serious danger for chrysanthemums in winter is constant moisture or ice on the leaves, as well as alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. Therefore, if multilayer shelters are used, they must be removed in time in the spring - most often chrysanthemums die due to damping out under excessively warm shelters.

Some gardeners, in order not to lose valuable varieties of chrysanthemums, before sheltering for the winter at the end of September, separate part of the bush and store it in a container until spring.

Chrysanthemums are back in fashion. There are hundreds of varieties that delight with their flowering from early summer to late autumn.

Autumn flowering is especially valuable, when all colors fade. How to plant them in open ground, how to care for and propagate this miracle?

There are several ways to propagate chrysanthemums. They are divided into vegetative, which includes several species and seed. Each has its pros and cons. In chrysanthemum, the timing of planting and care in the open field differs depending on the time of flowering: early, medium, late. Each grower chooses for himself the most productive way that suits him. Let's look at them in descending order of popularity.

The division of the bush

One of the most common ways for those who have an old mother bush that has grown enough. Subject to all necessary conditions, this method is the most reliable, almost 100% survival rate. It takes a little time to complete all the manipulations.

The algorithm is the following:

• dig with a clod of earth, shake it off. If conditions permit, then the bush must be soaked to wash off the ground.
• With a sharp and clean knife, cut the bush into separate sections.
• Each should have about 2-4 shoots.
• Delenki are placed in a solution of potassium permanganate and kept there for 20-40 minutes.
• Within half an hour, new bushes need to be dried a little.
• Planted in prepared loose and nutritious soil.
• Water around, shade with improvised means from drying out.

Dates of division: May or end of August-beginning of September. It is necessary to divide the bush, regardless of whether you want to propagate it, once every 3-4 years. Thus, the plant is rejuvenated, the flowers become larger.

cuttings

The second most important way is rooting cuttings. It is suitable in the case when the plant needs to maintain varietal characteristics. So you can get much more young plants than from dividing the bush.

How and when to propagate chrysanthemums by cuttings? Planting material is prepared only in spring: from late February to early June. If reproduction occurs in February-March, then the plant takes root for a long time, about a month. When cuttings are planted in April-May - 2 weeks.

There are 2 main ways:

• 1 way. With the onset of cold weather, the mother plant must be dug up and stored at a temperature of 5-8 ° C until February. Occasionally, an earthen ball needs to be watered so that it does not get too dry. At the end of February, put the pot under the light and raise the temperature to 16-18 ° C.
  It is recommended to feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizer to accelerate the growth of shoots. When the shoots reach 20-25 cm, they are cut off for rooting. To make the process go faster, they are broken out with a “heel” right at the stem with their hands. Leave 6-7 cm with 3-5 internodes. The lower leaves are removed, the upper ones are reduced by half. Cuttings are planted in loose soil, half mixed with sand. Rooting begins at a temperature of 17-23 ° C.
• 2 way. In terms of meaning, this method is similar to the previous one, only it is performed in open ground. In the spring, when chrysanthemums wake up and grow, you need to stimulate them: feed them with nitrogen and complex fertilizers. When the shoots grow, they can be drawn in the same way as in the previous method.

Planting material can be planted in the so-called "school", a garden bed, where conditions are created for the rooting of young plants. Usually it is slightly raised to make it more convenient to work, the soil is only loose, with a lot of sand, it is possible to stretch a film or spunbond on top, as in a greenhouse.

The school must be absolutely clean from weeds. It is also possible, as in method 1, to use boxes filled with substrate for rooting. A transplant to a permanent place can be done in 2-3 weeks, but make sure that these days are not too hot.

Some are interested in how to grow a chrysanthemum from a cut flower? You can also do this as described above. The stem is cut into cuttings with 4 internodes, the leaves are shortened. It is better to make a cut oblique to increase the rooting area.

Only semi-woody parts of the stem are planted.

layering

This type of propagation is not often used, although it has the following advantages: the plant is not injured during digging, the rooting rate is very high, young chrysanthemums receive nutrition from the mother bush. The meaning of this method is as follows:

• Choose the longest shoots from the bush.
• Tilt them to the ground to pin.
• The land in this place should be loose and cleared of weeds.
• At the point of contact, the stem can be rubbed so that the bark comes off it. This is done for better rooting.
• The plant is pinned or pressed, for example, with a stone.
• Watered and sprinkled with loose earth.

This procedure is performed in the fall. By next season there will be new plants.

Reproduction by seeds

Reproduction by seeds is not the most popular type when it comes to hybrids. In this case, the vegetative method is used, since there is no guarantee that exactly the variety that looks like “father” or “mother” will grow from the seeds.

From varietal small-flowered chrysanthemums, you can propagate the flower you like. Seeds are harvested in autumn. Stratify before planting. Planted in advance, in February-March, to look at the flowering in the first year.

Chrysanthemums - planting in spring and autumn

When is it better to plant perennial chrysanthemums: in autumn or spring? Mostly in the fall, gardeners plant in the southern regions, where the winter is mild. In spring - residents of the central part of Russia. Autumn planting contains several subtleties:

• Before the start of winter, you need to place the plant in a new place, given that there is at least a month before frost or severe cold. During this time, the chrysanthemum will have time to take root.
• The planting hole must be filled with humus or compost, as well as potash and phosphorus fertilizers, which contribute to the rapid growth of the underground part of the plant.
• It is necessary to land in dry cloudy weather, but it is better on the eve of rain.
• If the weather is rainy, then additional watering is not worth it.
• When planting in spring, it is important to shade the chrysanthemum so that it does not fall under the bright spring rays and make sure that the soil is always moist.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, top dressing, pruning, shelter

In order to get beautiful flowers, you need to follow some conditions:

• Watering is moderate. Chrysanthemum does not like excess moisture, as well as lack of watering.
  Watering method - under the root.
• Top dressing. Chrysanthemum needs complex fertilizer. In spring and early summer, more nitrogen, then you need to make phosphorus and potassium. This contributes to the formation of beautiful inflorescences.
• Pruning. Before frost, the chrysanthemum is cut off, leaving 10-15 cm above ground level.
• Shelter. With the onset of frost, the flowers cover. The most cold-resistant - a thick layer of leaf litter, needles or sawdust. Heat-loving ones are insulated with various covering non-woven materials.

There are varieties that cannot be left outside, they are dug up and placed in optimal conditions.

How to create globular chrysanthemum bushes

There are varieties that grow and begin to branch in such a way that they form a beautiful ball. But from an ordinary chrysanthemum, you can do something similar. To do this, you need a young plant: a rooted cutting or a separated part of the mother plant with one stem.

The shoot is pinched over 5-7 leaves. New processes begin to grow from the sinuses, they are shortened according to the same principle. You get a beautiful "pillow" from just one stem.

Growing chrysanthemums in the garden - planting and care - on video:

Chrysanthemums in the garden are a firework of bright colors even against the backdrop of cloudy rainy days. Raspberry, pink, red, purple, white and peach tones catch the eye and uplift the mood. When you look at the multi-colored fluffy bushes, you involuntarily recall the oriental wisdom that growing chrysanthemums is for longevity and happiness. Moreover, there are no difficulties in these agricultural practices: timely planting, proper care and preparation for winter will fill the garden with cheerful colors until late autumn. After all, chrysanthemum is one of the few.

Chrysanthemum can be grown at home. Especially since the varieties belong to the apartment.

Planting a chrysanthemum

For the successful planting of chrysanthemums, you need to choose a suitable place, prepare the soil and decide on the timing. Chrysanthemums are best planted in the spring. However, even with autumn planting, the flowers take root well. Therefore, in exceptional cases, landing in the fall is also possible, the main thing is to be in time before mid-September.

Place for planting chrysanthemums

For planting chrysanthemums in the Moscow region, it is better to choose a sunny place. Then it is more likely that the plants will have time to pick up buds and bloom before frost. In my garden, I plant chrysanthemums in the garden - it's easier to cover them for the winter. When covering, they are slightly tilted, and then covered with a non-woven fabric.

Soil when planting chrysanthemums

The soil for chrysanthemums needs fertile. Chrysanthemums prefer neutral soil, but with proper care they also succeed in peat bogs. When landing I add:

• compost,
• ash,
• any complex mineral fertilizer.

Planting chrysanthemums in spring

For chrysanthemums, as for most, spring planting is preferable. This allows the plants to take root well and overwinter. During spring planting, chrysanthemums are not pruned, and after flowering, the inflorescences are not cut off; in the first year of planting, the stems of the plant are left for better wintering.

Planting chrysanthemums in autumn

Basically, chrysanthemums are planted in the fall, because at this time they are sold in bloom, and you can choose a variety live, and not from the picture. However, such late autumn plantings are associated with risks.

When planting chrysanthemums in autumn, it is expensive every day, so plants are planted immediately after purchase. Peduncles are removed to the middle of the stems so that the plants do not waste energy on flowering and take root sooner. Cut stems can be used to propagate chrysanthemums from cuttings (see below).

Chrysanthemum Care

Caring for chrysanthemums is easy. It comes down to timely watering, mulching, fertilizing, weeding and shelter for the winter.

Watering chrysanthemums

After planting, chrysanthemums need to be watered once every 3 days if the weather is dry. It is also desirable to shade chrysanthemums from the bright sun.

Mulching chrysanthemums

In spring and autumn, I mulch plantings with chrysanthemums. Autumn is especially important. Chrysanthemums form young rosettes by the end of September, which should overwinter. Rosettes grow upwards somewhat, which is why mulching is so important for chrysanthemums. Once every two years, for the same reason, chrysanthemums need to be planted (do this in the spring).

Top dressing of chrysanthemums

In total for the season I spend 3 top dressings on chrysanthemums:

1. I spend the first top dressing in the third decade of May with nitrogen fertilizers:

• I pre-moisten the soil under the chrysanthemums with ordinary water so as not to burn the roots,
• do,
• I breed herbal infusion in a ratio of 1: 8 and water chrysanthemums.

2. I spend the second dressing in mid-June: I breed a kemira or fertik in water: 1 tbsp. l. on the watering can

3. I spend the third top dressing at the end of June or in the middle of August and fertilizers:

• dissolve 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate in a bucket of water;
• or I prepare an ash extract: I pour 2 cups of ash with a bucket of water and insist for about 2 days, stirring occasionally.
• I take a glass of ash extract based on a watering can and water the flowers.

Such top dressing is important for a successful wintering, so that the stems ripen properly and the plant prepares for winter.

pruning chrysanthemums

I do not prune the chrysanthemums of the current year of planting for the winter. I only remove the faded inflorescences with a stem capture of no more than 2 cm, if the plants were planted in the spring.

In autumn planting chrysanthemums, after placing them in the garden, I shorten the stems immediately.

When chrysanthemums have been growing in the garden for more than a year, I cut them off before shelter, leaving 15-20 cm stumps.

Shelter of chrysanthemums for the winter

Before the frosts, I put arcs and cover the chrysanthemums with non-woven material to please the flowers longer.

With the onset of a steady minus (-7 ° C during the day), I cut all varieties by half the height (with the exception of plantings of the current year), cover them with their own stems, on top with spruce branches and two layers of non-woven material. The air gap that is maintained from the ground to the covering material is the key to a successful wintering.

If planned wintering chrysanthemums in the cellar , they are dug up before the first frost and planted in pots, the stems are shortened. During storage in the cellar, chrysanthemums are occasionally watered so that the earth does not dry out, but is slightly damp.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by cuttings, layering and seeds. Chrysanthemums are excellent cuttings, so this method is preferred. Chopped side shoots take root, separated from the stem with a “heel” and cuttings cut from the middle part of the stem. It is best to cut chrysanthemums in the spring. But even with autumn planting, successful rooting of cuttings is possible.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings

For cuttings of chrysanthemums, the most suitable time is spring. It is better to choose a place for rooting cuttings in partial shade.

1. The cuttings are cut into 7-10 cm and stuck into the ground at an angle to the first leaf from the bottom, covered with plastic bottles.
2. The top layer of soil is covered with river sand - this contributes to better rooting.
3. You can remove the bottles when new side shoots appear on the cuttings. First, the bottles are raised for several hours so that the cuttings get used to the air, and after a week they are removed completely.

Propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings in autumn

Once in my garden in the spring, I saw that some of the cut stems of chrysanthemums with which I cover the plants have taken root.
Now the cut stems (several pieces of each variety) in the fall I stick into the ground from the edge of the garden, I do this in the middle - the end of October. It's amazing, but they almost always take root, so I now insure rare varieties.

Also, cut stems during the autumn planting of chrysanthemum cuttings on the same bed (where the flowers were planted). To increase the rooting time for chrysanthemums, I cover them with a non-woven fabric. This contributes to better survival of plants, even if sub-zero temperatures have been established at night.

Propagation of chrysanthemums by layering

Chrysanthemum cuttings can be rooted. They are pressed to the ground with a stone and covered in this place with a layer of soil of 1-2 cm.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by seeds

Chrysanthemums are also propagated by seeds. I sow flowers before winter, when a steady sub-zero temperature is established, and in spring, in mid-May. I plant crops in a year. I try to sow not thickly, so that during the year the shoots do not interfere with each other.

Varieties of chrysanthemums for the Moscow region

In the conditions of the Moscow region, the most stable varieties in my garden proved to be:

• golden orange
• Caucasian captive
• Okishore
• Panda
• Sunflower

Do not winter in the conditions of the Moscow region under any shelter:

• Sonechko
• Vologda lace
• Lipstick
• All varieties of dwarf chrysanthemums (nowadays a fashionable novelty) up to 20 cm tall.

Read more about growing perennials in the garden.

Chrysanthemums are demanding on light, temperature conditions and soil fertility, and the climate of the middle zone is not very favorable for their cultivation in open ground. But if you correctly select varieties and follow the rules of agricultural technology, you can get good results in our climate zone. Best adapted for this, colloquially called for the characteristic shape of the leaves of the "oak". Thanks to the efforts of breeders, they have high reproduction, increased resistance to adverse environmental factors, diseases and pests, bloom profusely and for a long time. These qualities have allowed oaks to take one of the leading places in the range of ornamental open ground crops. Cut Dutch hybrids can only be grown in a greenhouse.

Proper selection of a landing site is very important for successful cultivation and care. How the plant will survive the winter largely depends on it. Chrysanthemums love warmth, they grow in open sunny places, lit for at least 5 hours a day, protected from strong winds, with good drainage. The lack of lighting leads to a weakening of the plants, the timing of their flowering is shifted, the inflorescences are formed ugly, dull-colored. Such chrysanthemums have weakened immunity and low frost resistance.

Speaking about how to grow chrysanthemums on the street, you need to understand that they grow best on organic-rich, loose, moisture-permeable, slightly acidic soil, the pH of which is in the range of 5.5 - 7.0. In order for the flower soil to meet these conditions, dry mullein and compost are added to it, but in reasonable quantities. If the earth is “refertilized” during flowering, chrysanthemums will actively increase their green mass to the detriment of it. Organic additives to the soil are applied in advance, in the fall, at the rate of 10 kg of organic matter per 1 sq. m. It can be humus, peat or compost. In extreme cases, you can cultivate chrysanthemums and take care of them in a plot with peat soil, after lowering its acidity with liming and introducing the nutrients necessary for the plant.

Drainage for chrysanthemums is also vital. Excessive dampness lingering in the soil does not allow the plant to endure the winter well. That is why they try to plant chrysanthemums in elevated areas. And in order to improve drainage, several buckets of coarse river sand are introduced into the soil for a future flower bed.

How to feed chrysanthemums

If you follow the agricultural technique of growing flower "queens" of autumn gardens, they grow quickly. By summer, a large bush develops from a small inconspicuous cutting, and by autumn it already manages to please us with abundant flowering and go into a state of rest. With such accelerated development, frequent feeding becomes a necessity. During the summer there should be at least three.

The first time the chrysanthemum needs to be fed until mid-June, that is, even before the buds start on the plant. It will help the bush to grow green mass. Top dressing can be prepared from the following components:

• 10 l of settled water;
• 1 st. a spoonful of nitrophoska;
• 1 liter of liquid mullein.

Before fertilizing, the bushes need to be thoroughly watered and wait for the absorption of moisture into the soil. Then, about 1 liter of nutrient solution is poured under each plant.

The second time chrysanthemums are fed during the period of bud setting, from the second decade of July to the second decade of August. A more accurate date depends on the specific timing of flowering of each species. For the second top dressing, you can take:

• 10 liters of water;
• 1 st. a spoonful of superphosphate;
• 1 st. a spoonful of potassium sulfate.

It is carried out in the same way: about 1 liter of nutrient solution is poured under each bush, the soil is pre-moistened.

For the third time, top dressing is carried out in the midst of abundant flowering. Prepare it as follows:

• 10 liters of water;
• 1 st. a spoonful of potassium sulfate.

Everything else is the same. The earth is preliminarily watered abundantly. 1 liter of liquid fertilizer is applied under each bush.

Fertilizers are best applied at dawn or late in the evening when the sun has set. Care must be taken to ensure that the nutrient fluid does not get on the flowers and leaves, as the chemicals contained in it will cause them to burn.

So that as many buds as possible are tied up on the chrysanthemum, it blooms faster, and the flowering is friendly, before they begin to swell, the bushes are sprayed with a growth stimulator Bud for fast flowering at the rate of 10 g of the stimulant per 10 liters of settled water. For spraying 10-15 plants, 1 liter of such a solution is required. You can also use Bon forte fertilizer for roses and spray chrysanthemums.

Planting chrysanthemums in spring in open ground

It is very important to correctly determine when to plant seedlings on the street. It is preferable to do this not in the fall, but, like transplanting chrysanthemums in the spring. Under the conditions of the middle zone, planting begins in the last days of May - the first days of June, when spring frosts end and the soil warms up to 12-14 degrees to a depth of 15 cm. Rooted cuttings purchased in a store or obtained independently, as well as seedlings obtained by dividing the bush, are usually used as planting material. It is easier to grow a hybrid plant from them that retains the characteristics of the variety than. The landing scheme depends on the features of the intended composition.

An important point. Chrysanthemums do not like to be disturbed too late, this affects winter hardiness. It's funny that they sell them just at the end of summer and autumn. Maybe this explains the unexpected attacks and disappointed conclusions about fraudulent sellers.

When grown in the form of linear plantings, in order to facilitate plant care, they are planted at a distance in a row of 50-80 cm and with row spacing of about 1 m. The minimum recommended feeding area for young is 30x30 cm. .

When the cuttings are planted, the soil around them is compacted and moistened. When planting in hot weather, prepared holes are also watered. It is necessary to plant cuttings in such a way that their root collars are at the same level with the soil. Before planting, small seedlings are kept in plastic or peat cups, and larger bushes in plastic bags together with an earthen clod. Planting should be carried out according to varieties, seedlings are taken along with a clod of earth in which they are rooted. It is not necessary to shake it off the roots.

Planting material acquired in autumn, in September-October, is not advisable to be planted in open ground for wintering. It is better to keep them in a dry, warm enough basement where vegetables are stored. It is not necessary to get chrysanthemums from the basement or from the cellar until spring.

The ideal time for planting chrysanthemums is an early rainy morning. But in any case, if there is no rain, this should be done at dawn or after the sun has set. The holes are dug to a depth of 35-40 cm, drainage is poured into each, earth mixed with biohumus in a ratio of 20: 1 is placed on it and poured with plenty of water. Then a seedling is placed vertically in the center of the hole and soil is poured around it. Chrysanthemum roots should not be buried too deep, as they grow parallel to the soil. A support is placed under tall bushes with spreading stems.

The first pinching, which consists in removing the growth point, is recommended to be done immediately after planting. The second pinching is done after 2-3 weeks by breaking out the top of the shoot with 2-3 nodes.

For some time after landing on the street, chrysanthemums react poorly to bright daylight. To help plants adapt more easily and quickly, they are shaded with a non-woven covering material, strengthening it so that the leaves do not come into contact with the coating.

Rainy autumn weather and frequent fogs can significantly reduce the decorativeness of plantings. Varieties with white color of inflorescences are especially affected. Relatively more resistant to bad weather varieties with inflorescences of golden yellow and orange-yellow colors.

Adult flowering bushes bought in a store in pots (provided that the variety is frost-resistant) can be transplanted outdoors in the second half of August or early September. That is, it is necessary to transplant a chrysanthemum after purchase a month and a half before the onset of the first frost. If you do this later, their root system will not have time to get stronger. During the period of adaptation to the conditions of the street, the plants need to be watered abundantly, otherwise the bush will wither, but you do not need to immediately apply top dressing. In this case, the soil should be fertilized only next year, in the spring.

Care of chrysanthemums in the open field

In one place, without a transplant, chrysanthemums grow for 2-3 years. Then they need to be transplanted to another place. In addition, every 3 years, the bush is divided. During the entire growing season, the ground around the chrysanthemums in the flower bed must be weeded and loosened. At this time, the root system and underground shoots are actively developing, due to which the bush is formed. Then loosening is stopped, otherwise there is a risk of damage to the young growing growth.

Weeding and loosening is carried out every 8-10 days. Gardeners believe that one loosening is equivalent to two waterings. especially useful for loosening after rain, watering and fertilizing.

Despite the fact that perennial chrysanthemums tolerate drought, they need a lot of moisture during the growing season. Watering them at this time should be plentiful, 3 times a week. During the period of tying buds and flowering, “dry” watering can be practiced - accurate and shallow loosening with hilling and un-hilling of bushes. Such actions will bring the greatest effect in rainy or humid weather.

It is better to water chrysanthemums in the evening, after 18 hours. Watering should be plentiful, so that the soil is saturated with water to a depth of 20-25 cm, while trying to prevent water from falling on the leaves.

Mulching with a thin layer of 3 cm is very useful. Peat, crushed tree bark, pine needles or straw are used as mulch. Such a “carpet” allows you to keep the looseness and moisture of the soil for a long time, slows down the growth of weeds, does not allow pathogens of fungal infections to get from the soil to the bush along with water spray during rain and watering, and creates the necessary conditions for the successful development of the root system and the plant as a whole.

Shaping and pinching chrysanthemums

Timely and well-performed pinching is very important, as it stimulates the development of lateral shoots, helping the chrysanthemum to form a lush bush and contributing to its friendly flowering in the future. It is held throughout June. It should be noted that the time interval between the last plucking and the beginning of flowering should be about a month.

The number of axillary lateral buds must be constantly monitored by plucking. Since they overload the plant, there should be no more than 25-30 of them. To get inflorescences of maximum size on large-flowered varieties, only 2-3 of the strongest shoots with buds are left on them, and the rest are removed.

Large-flowered varieties are usually cultivated in one, rarely in 2-3 stems, and small-flowered varieties are usually grown in the form of bushes, less often on a trunk. In any case, the first buds of young chrysanthemums are removed. This is done so that the plant does not bloom too early and has time to get stronger. It is worth noting that more and more hybrid varieties have recently appeared that do not need thinning buds.

In large-flowered varieties, the abundance of side shoots and buds delays the development of the main bud, so they are removed as they appear. Excess buds are separated with the thumbs of both hands with horizontal movements.

Tall varieties that reach over a meter in height need support. To do this, it is convenient to use pegs made of wood or metal, interconnected by wire. You can make your own or purchase them from a garden store. Another way to support the plant is to attach a special net around it, at a height of about 40 cm from the ground. She will not let the bush fall apart. At first, the mesh does not look very aesthetically pleasing, but after a short time the chrysanthemum grows and the support becomes invisible.

Wintering of chrysanthemums in the open field

Only frost-resistant varieties of perennial garden chrysanthemums can withstand the winter on the street. Basically, these are Korean hybrids, perfectly adapted to the climate of central Russia, including growing in the Moscow region. Thanks to the work of breeders, it has even become possible to grow chrysanthemums in open ground in Siberia. But even here there are nuances. On a dry, elevated area, the plants will not freeze, but if the area is located in a lowland, where moisture constantly accumulates, chrysanthemums will freeze.

But even if the right place for chrysanthemums in the country house was chosen (elevated and dry), they will need to be prepared for the winter. With the onset of autumn frosts, when the foliage on the bushes wither, the specimens remaining on the street are cut off and preventive treatment is carried out with pesticides (copper oxychloride 0.8% and nitrofen 1%). How to prune bushes? Pruning can be done high and low, to the very root. In the first case, in the spring you will have to remove the remnants of old shoots.

Before wintering, all diseased and weak plants are separated and destroyed.

Leaving plants in the ground, they need to be insulated, but not every material is suitable for this purpose. As a heater can not be used:

• leaves - the ground under them is damp and the plants are damp;
• sawdust - pathogenic microorganisms develop in them;
• peat - because of the increased moisture capacity, it freezes, and with the onset of spring it thaws for a long time.

In order for chrysanthemums to winter safely, it is best to proceed as follows: spud the stems with ordinary earth, then cover with boxes, and throw covering material on top in 1-2 layers. It can be purchased at a store or used fabrics that have served their age, old clothes. Another reliable way to save chrysanthemums is to cover the previously spudded bushes with spruce branches or branches (you can cut any) with the advent of the first frosts, and on top with fallen leaves. So that the chrysanthemums do not sop, the shelter should not be heavy and dense.

With the onset of spring, all the stems remaining from last year are removed, and the main dead shoot is twisted out of the soil, since its growth does not resume, and the development of the plant occurs due to lateral underground shoots.

When digging up a plant, there is a risk of damage to its root system. To prevent this from happening, the bush is dug up from two sides.

In heat-loving, non-frost-resistant varieties, the stems are cut in October, leaving a length of 15–20 cm, and the leaves are cut off. Then the bushes are dug out together with an earthen clod, placed in boxes and transferred to a room with an air temperature of 4–6 ° C, preferably light. When new sprouts appear on the bushes, they begin to moderately water them.