Options for manufacturing extensions to a wooden house. Layout of an extension to a private house. Extension to a wooden house. Wooden, brick, frame extensions: projects, construction

When, for various reasons, it becomes necessary to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simplest option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with a minimum skill in working with a carpentry tool. Step-by-step instructions for the construction stages with photos will help you make a useful and beautiful extension as in the video, which will last for many years.

So that the extension does not subsequently have to be transformed, even at the planning stage, you should consider the nuances of the design. First, decide on the purpose of the new premises.

1. Additional room. The construction of an additional room is tantamount to building a house with a small area. All structures of the new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise the heating of such a room will be inefficient due to the large heat loss. You should not save on waterproofing, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
2. Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the engineering communications before you start building the foundation. The places where water or sewer pipes pass through the foundation must be well insulated. This is easier and cheaper to do at the construction stage.
3. The veranda is a light extension to the house of an open or glazed type. Used for summer holidays. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: flooring, walls and roof on supports. Do not forget about harmony, the veranda should be combined with the house in terms of scale, style and construction materials.

We select the base

The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second one is planned at the stage of building a house, then for the first one you will need to build a separate foundation. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, during shrinkage, the monolithic base will collapse due to the different weights of the veranda and the house. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation erected on soil prone to heaving will “lead”, and the extension will move away from the house. Such a base is designed for light walls; shrinkage is inevitable under the weight of brickwork.

Different materials are used for construction: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete. It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:

• tape;
• slab;
• columnar;
• pile;
• pile-grillage.

In private construction, when erecting a base for a veranda, a columnar or tape structure is most often used. Let us consider in more detail the step-by-step instructions for arranging the foundations.

Strip foundation

For large and heavy buildings, a tape type of foundation is chosen. It is advisable to perform it from concrete in this sequence.

Important. Before erecting walls on the foundation, it is necessary to apply waterproofing. Use roll materials or mastic.

Column Foundation

For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to erect a columnar base, which is built of brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or a combination of these materials. Pits under the pillars are dug to a depth below the freezing of the soil. The step between the posts is about 60 cm. The sequence of work:

• dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured into the bottom and carefully compacted;
• a layer of concrete mortar is laid, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use the level so that the masonry is strictly vertical;
• the concrete support is made in the same way as the tape type foundation: the inside of the formwork is wrapped with waterproofing and a reinforced frame is inserted. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;

• after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pole, covered with several layers of roofing material on top - the material will protect the wooden beam of the floor from getting wet;
• the remaining voids are filled with backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is poured, its ramming is carried out every 15 cm of the layer.

Important. The height of the foundation pillars is calculated so that the distance to the finishing floor of the extension is 30 cm.

Floor: wood or concrete

A concrete or wooden floor is arranged on a tape type foundation. The base on the pillars is obviously calculated for arranging a wooden floor. Let's take a look at both technologies.

Construction of the frame and walls

Wall structures are erected from timber, fastened to previously assembled crown beams of the strapping. Wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall shield is mounted in a vertical position, or each beam is connected to the beam in series. Step-by-step instruction:

• On the lower strapping bars, every 50 cm, make a cut for vertical racks.
• Mount the racks, fixing with corners and screws.
• Assemble the top harness.

• The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical bar to the wall.
• Fix all racks adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
• It is better to immediately sheathe the finished "skeleton" of the veranda from the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
• After erecting and insulating the roof, insert windows and doors.

Covering and roofing

Shed type of roof is combined with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. Let's consider it.

Wall and floor insulation

Mineral wool is used as an insulating material for walls. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other in order to exclude heat loss through the connecting seams. The insulation is covered on both sides with a vapor and wind insulating material that will protect the material from the accumulation of moisture, and sheathed with a finishing material on top. Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, drywall and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For the exterior wall, use wood, siding, or materials that match the finish of the home.

The floor on wooden logs is insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the logs, having previously covered the boards with a waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation, and then leveled with plywood. After that, a fine floor covering is mounted.

A concrete floor can be insulated in the same way as a wooden floor, dry screed can be applied, a concrete screed can be made and water or electric heating can be installed.

Home craftsmen often overlook the need to comply with safety regulations. Use personal protective equipment and a well-functioning reliable tool, and then you will have only the warmest memories from the construction of the extension.

Frame extension on piles: video

Expanding the useful area of ​​a private house with the help of an additional extension allows you to solve a lot of problems, first of all, to increase the usable area and increase the level of comfort. An extension to a wooden house is easier to formalize legally than a new building, and it can be built much cheaper than if you rebuild the entire box of the house. It is only necessary to choose the right project to make the wooden extension box one with the building box.

Features of planning an extension to a wooden house

Let the simplicity and modest size of the attached premises not be misleading. Not so simple. Experienced craftsmen recommend taking the problem of arranging an extension to a wooden house as seriously as if you had to build a real house or make another floor.

There are two "narrow" moments in the extension design:

• It is necessary to properly plan and make a junction of two foundations. It is not enough to build an additional base for an extension, you also need to make it safe so that a small foundation does not cause settlement or deformation of the walls;
• Choose the shape and method of attaching the extension truss system to the box of a wooden house. Depending on the chosen project, part of the roof of a wooden house will have to be dismantled in order to build one common slope or make it in a broken pattern.

It is no more difficult to build walls, cut windows, doorways, lay the floor in an extension, hang insulation and perform decorative trim, equipping a ceiling is no more difficult than when building an ordinary house.

The most interesting type of extension to the house is made with a sliding front wall. If necessary, the room can be easily transformed into a living room or made into a summer kitchen.

Extensions to a wooden house: types, purpose

Of course, building planning begins with the general idea of ​​​​building an additional room. Most often, the owners decide to build a separate room, floor or even part of a wooden house in order to allocate additional living space for guests or family members, equip a recreation area, make a utility room or install additional boiler equipment.

A modern wooden house is considered a rather complex structure. After assembly, the wooden house adjusts to the foundation for a long time, the walls and crowns shrink. In order to build a strong and stable extension to a building from a bar or log, it will take at least a year of waiting.

Traditionally, the owners prefer to make an extension of:

• aerated concrete blocks;
• Profiled timber;
• Red or silicate brick;
• Sip panels or homemade wooden shields.

One of the most popular trends is the use of glass or polycarbonate panels. Double-glazed windows provide good thermal insulation, and excess sunlight makes it possible to make the extension room in the form of a closed veranda or winter garden.

Often, an extension has to be built by blocking windows in a wooden house with walls. A transparent roof or a polycarbonate wall solves the problem of shading the living space.

Frame house extension

If you want to build an additional room to a wooden house in the shortest possible time, it is best to make an extension in the form of a frame-panel structure. At first glance, the frame scheme looks very complicated: a lot of wooden racks and lintels sheathed with OSB boards, plywood and tongue and groove board. In fact, making the frame of an extension to a wooden house is not difficult even for a novice carpenter.

The wireframe has its advantages:

• The light weight of the extension makes it possible to make a simple and inexpensive pile foundation instead of the traditional strip foundation. The time needed to build an additional building is reduced from two to three weeks to a few days;
• The cost of building a frame extension is about half of the cost of a similar structure made of timber or aerated concrete;
• The frame extension, with a small weight, has high rigidity due to the use of a large number of struts and struts;
• Thanks to the use of an openwork power scheme of the frame, the attached room can be quite large, even two floors;
• Even if a wooden house is equipped with a complex sloping roof, it is much easier to build a full-fledged roof for an extension and connect it to the truss system of the building than if the attached box is made of brick or foam block.

In the form of a frame extension, you can make a warmed veranda, a bathhouse and even a rest room. If a wooden house is placed on a concrete strip foundation, huge window openings can be made in the attached room, turning it into a studio or dining room.

The frame scheme of the extension is ideal for building an attic room on the second floor of a wooden house. Even if the building is built of logs, modern insulation materials provide comfortable living conditions in winter.

Ideally, the frame extension should be built on a strip concrete foundation. It may not be the cheapest way to build additional space, but using MZLF provides several tangible benefits:

• Firstly, the concrete tape significantly enhances the rigidity of the frame extension. An exception may be the options when a wooden house for a number of reasons had to be made on a pile foundation;
• Secondly, a rigid base will exclude the manifestation of such unpleasant phenomena as wall skew or settlement of door and window openings, even if the windows in the extension are made half a wall.

If you correctly tie the concrete tape under the extension to the base of the wooden house, then regardless of the shrinkage processes, there will never be gaps or gaps between the walls of the house and the attached building, which are typical for heavy structures made of brick and stone.

But there is one limitation, experts do not recommend building frame rooms on concrete strip foundations in conditions of heavily watered soils. In addition to the forces of frost heaving, which deform the base of the attached premises, the wooden frame extension, even when waterproofing is used, is quite sensitive to ground moisture.

One example of solving a similar problem in the construction of frame extensions is the joint construction of an extension and an open terrace on a foundation of a grillage or pile type.

A huge shield terrace made of larch or polymer board is installed on a foundation of screw piles, photo. The strength and rigidity of the pile foundation field is enough to build a huge frame structure on the terrace with just huge windows. The wooden walls of the house and the attached premises are covered with ventilated siding with a natural stone finish.

Extension to the house of foam blocks

Using a foam block greatly simplifies the task. The light weight of the wall block allows you to build extension boxes of various shapes and sizes. The only essential condition is the use of the most rigid foundation. Even if, before the construction of the extension, the wooden house was built on piles, the foam concrete box must be installed on the MZLF.

Due to the low rigidity of the foam concrete masonry, the attached room is usually extended along one of the walls of a wooden house. This allows you to make the extension sufficiently stable without internal lintels and walls. A wooden house due to an extension, as it were, increases in length.

Wooden and foam concrete walls need protection from rain and frost, most often with the help of external cladding made of clapboard or siding. In this case, the dimensions of the attached box are adjusted to the dimensions of the wooden house so that after laying the siding or ventilated facade, the building looks like a single monolithic building.

The foam block, easy to process and fit, makes it relatively easy to build an extension box of the most intricate shape and configuration. For example, if you can build a closed veranda on the entire wall of the house, while making part of the extension in the form of a bay window.

The construction of an extension from foam blocks on the entire wall of a wooden house is possible only if an additional concrete strip can be added to the strip foundation of the building for the attached room.

In addition, the walls of foam blocks at the level of window openings must be reinforced with a reinforcing belt made of a metal profile. The easiest way is to make a belt from a channel with metal embedded in the corners of the wooden walls of the house.

In this case, an attached building can be built even on a relatively weak foundation; the channel belt will keep the extension from tipping over or buckling walls.

Extension to a wooden house from a bar

It is technologically much more difficult to make a timber extension to a wooden house than to build an additional room from brick or aerated concrete.

First of all, the foundation, experts categorically recommend making a foundation of the same type under the extension as under the main building. If for some reason it is impossible to use the advice, then the attached timber box is best done on a pile foundation.

The second problem is the shrinkage of the wooden walls of the building. Regardless of the chosen design of the foundation and roof, the timber extension will shrink for at least another year, so it will be necessary to make expansion gaps on the walls and the roof truss system.

The easiest way is to build an additional room below the installation level of the truss system of a wooden house. In this case, the roof of the extension does not exert much pressure on the mauerlat and the upper rims of the roofing system. It is enough to make a swinging node adjoining the shed roof of the extension to the wooden wall of the house, if the node is built correctly, then the shrinkage processes of the timber walls will not affect the stability of the main box of the building.

If an extension from a bar needs to be made equal in height to the walls of a wooden house, then you will have to build a common roof for the entire structure. To do this, it will be necessary to disassemble the roofing and make a transitional part for the articulation of the truss system of a wooden house with a shed extension system.

The above method of combining the roofing of two buildings guarantees the absence of leaks, even if the shrinkage of the attached premises exceeded the calculated values. If necessary, a canopy over the entrance to the house can be made from a new common roof slope or a wooden terrace can be built. It is enough to lengthen the overhang and install additional supports, however, this can be done no earlier than the shrinkage of the walls of the extension ends.

Do-it-yourself extension to a wooden house: step by step instructions

The problem of expanding the existing housing stock is especially relevant for summer and country houses. As a rule, a cottage is bought together with a house. In the process of the first redevelopment and distribution of the usable area of ​​the building, it becomes clear that the wooden house requires a radical reconstruction. At a minimum, you will need to attach a veranda or covered terrace for relaxation. The earlier a wooden extension is made, the cheaper the construction of a country house will be.

Preparation for construction

It is best to build an additional area on the sunny side of the building. Wooden walls do not like direct sunlight, so the surface of the wood is additionally primed with a protective varnish, Tikkurila is best. Regardless of which side of the wooden house it is planned to build an additional room, the box is reinforced with staples, vapor barrier and mineral fiber boards are laid. It is extremely necessary to insulate the extension, even if the project involves the construction of a warm extension.

Foundation laying

Following the golden rule for the construction of extensions, the foundation for the base of the attached premises must be chosen the same as for a wooden house. In this case, the attached box can be built on a columnar foundation. Such a scheme is simpler and cheaper than a tape or pile version.

If the purchased wooden cottage has problems with the shrinkage of part of the supports, then it is best to make a remote MZL foundation that will cover both the old building and the new building.

Important! In this case, the problem of joining the bases of the attached and main wooden premises is automatically solved.

In order to make a columnar foundation, you will need:

• Clean the top layer of soil under the base of the extension, remove the sod, remove the grass and the remains of the roots, the surface is covered with geotextile so that weeds do not grow, covered with a layer of sand and rammed in two or three passes;
• The next step is to make columnar supports, the easiest way is to build supports by casting a concrete mixture into a wooden formwork. If the site has a slope of the surface, then the supports must be connected to each other with reinforcement bundles, even without embedding it in concrete. Anchor studs, 100-150 mm high, are embedded in the supporting surface of the pillars;
• Approximately four hours after pouring, it is necessary to trim the supporting surface so that all sites are located in the same strictly horizontal plane.

After the concrete has set, it is necessary to remove the wooden formwork and make waterproofing, it is best to paste over the supports with roofing material on bituminous mastic. Next, you need to build the harness and the base of the extension, which will connect the sole of the attached room with the foundation of the wooden building.

Connecting the foundation to the base of a wooden house

Strapping can be done no earlier than three days after pouring concrete. In winter, the exposure time is doubled. First you need to build a mounting plane. To do this, one beam is laid on two edge rows of columnar supports, so that they are parallel to the wooden wall of the house. Next, a support beam is sewn onto the adjacent wall of the wooden house, this must be done strictly along the horizon line.

The transverse beams of the piping of the columnar foundation will rest freely at one end on the beam sewn to the wall, the rest of the wooden piping after alignment will be fixed on the supports. In this way, it is possible to build and connect the foundations of an extension and a wooden house using a flexible ligament.

If you make a concrete strip foundation for a wooden house and an attached room, then the connection between the bases will need to be built according to the diagram below. An expansion joint is made between the concrete strips of the two foundations, into which a triple-folded glass roofing material is laid.

Installation of the floor in the annex

After finishing work with the foundation, before building the floor and load-bearing elements of the walls, it is necessary to do, as they say, “welding” the wooden parts. The foundation wood is subjected to a three-fold treatment:

• The fungus, woodworms are etched with an aqueous solution of chromic, the second pass is to treat wooden structures with vitriol oil;
• In the next run, the wooden beams are fired with a blowtorch or gas burner to make the pores in the wood susceptible to finishing with drying oil or oil paint;
• All wooden elements of the foundation of the extension are painted with a protective compound, it is best to do the treatment with silicate protective paints.

Note! After impregnation with organosilicon protective compounds, a wooden extension can be built even on wet marshy ground.

Before building the floor, it is necessary to measure the distance between the cross beams of the strapping in order to make the floor as strong as possible, without creaking boards and deflections. The distance between the lags should be no more than 60 cm, so the strapping beams are either diluted with intermediate beams, or oblique wooden corners are sewn on.

The next step is to do the flooring. The lower plane of the wooden strapping is lined with a tongue-and-groove board, plywood or an ordinary sawlog. Waterproofing and mineral seal mats are laid inside the box, then another layer of vapor barrier film is laid, and the future floor can be laid with a rough floorboard. As long as the board is only tacked to the base, the finished floor can be built after the walls and ceiling have been erected.

Extension windows and doors

One of the most difficult stages in the construction of an extension is associated with the construction of supporting pillars of the walls and ceiling. For the equipment of the load-bearing racks of a wooden extension, a bar with a section of 90x90 mm is used, preferably spruce or pine, but always of the first grade, without knots or signs of damage to the fibers.

Instead of an expensive bar, racks can be made from a forty board. Two edged boards are knocked down at the edges with nails and loosened into blocks on a circular saw. For each pair, you need to make sizing with carpentry glue, and then dry it under pressure. From a home-made timber, you can easily make load-bearing racks, floor beams, window and door frames without any problems.

Homemade beams are installed vertically on the strapping beam and fastened with struts. After alignment, the elements of the future frame are sewn together with beams of the upper and middle strapping. After assembling the racks, you need to make blanks for window and door openings.

Boxes can be built directly into the frame of the extension or made separately according to the size of the window frames. The door hatch is installed together with the door, reinforced with struts and side ligaments. If it is planned to use a plastic door and windows, then the transitional wooden frame can be immediately fixed to the frame using mounting foam.

Roof and its docking with the main roof

Before building the roof and walls of the extension, it is necessary to lay the beams of the ceiling. The principle of laying ceiling beams practically does not differ from the construction of lags for the floor.

Initially, the upper ceiling trim is marked for laying another layer of a wooden beam - a Mauerlat, on which it will be possible to build a roof frame. Next, in the upper harness and the Mauerlat beam, you need to make cuts or cut the grooves for laying the ceiling beam.

Depending on the size of the wooden extension, the ceiling is made of timber 70x90 mm or 90x90 mm. In places of tie-in, the floor beams are attached to the upper trim with self-tapping bolts. After assembling the ceiling, it is necessary to lay the Mauerlat beams, after combining the sawn grooves with the protrusions of the ceiling beams, it is nailed to the upper strapping of the wooden frame of the extension.

Before building a roof truss frame, experts recommend hemming the ceiling with a grooved board, you can use OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, 15-18 mm thick. Ceiling filing will give the opportunity to work freely and move around the ceiling.

Common roof rafters

In order to build a common roof truss system for a wooden house and an extension, it will be necessary to disassemble and remove the roofing of the adjacent slope. If an attic room is built on the second floor of the cottage, then the lower part of the rafters will need to be removed. So that the frame of the attic room does not deform, it is necessary to make several struts or stops to compensate for the pressure on the attic of the roofing pie from the opposite side.

In order to build a new slope, it is enough to replace the old rafters with new, longer and heavier ones. The upper end of the rafters rests on the auxiliary ridge bar of the attic, with the lower cut they stand on the Mauerlat of the upper trim of the extension.

To compensate for the weight of the heavier new rafters, an additional brace-reinforced support must be built under each beam. Next, a crate, cornice and wind slats are stuffed onto the rafters. If the attic is planned to be built in an insulated version, it will be necessary to build a counter-lattice and ventilation of the roofing pie.

Roof finishing and insulation

The main difficulty faced in the process of restoring or laying a new roofing is the limited access to insulating and insulating materials of the upper roof slope. In order to build reliable insulation and waterproofing of the roof, without cold bridges and lines of condensate leakage, it is necessary to connect the vapor barrier membranes of the upper and lower roof slopes very tightly and with high quality.

This is not easy to do. To build a single protection, it is necessary to lift the bottom row of slate or metal tiles in order to run the film under the roofing and securely glue it to the top layer of the film material.

The rest of the roll of waterproofing and vapor barrier film is rolled down the slope and fixed with the slats of the counter-lattice. The heater returns to its place. To prevent the redistribution of condensate from warmer layers to colder parts of the roof, the roof insulation must be built from the same material. If it is not possible to build up the enlarged plane of the new slope with a material identical to the old insulation, then it is better to replace the fiber boards throughout the roof with new mats.

To build the first row of roofing on the line of joining the slopes, it is necessary to make a transition node. Usually it is a wooden plank cut with a wedge or a bar stuffed along the edge of the upper slope. This must be done, since the angle of inclination of the new slope, under which the extension and part of the wooden house fit, has become smaller, which means that part of the rainwater can penetrate through the junction line. To avoid leakage, the joint line is glued with polyurethane foam and bituminous mastic.

Construction and wall insulation

After the roof and ceiling have been assembled, waterproofing and insulation have been laid, it is necessary to build the insulation of the walls and floor of the wooden extension. Initially, you need to check how much the geometry of the walls has changed, window and door openings have deformed under load from the weight of the truss system, insulation and ceiling. In places where the formed cracks and gaps are visible to the naked eye, it will be necessary to tighten and align the racks so that they return to their original place, this can be done with an ordinary heavy hammer and mount.

After leveling the places where the gaps have formed, they are reinforced with metal plates, if the vertical stand has led, then two additional horizontal struts will need to be made. The walls of the wooden extension are reinforced with horizontal and side braces at the installation sites of window frames and doors.

Further, the outer surface of the extension frame is sewn up with a rail, if it is supposed to be made into a siding, then the bar can be filled in increments of 1.5 cm, in other cases the surface is clogged solid. The next step is to build the insulation of the room, most often fiber mineral thermal insulation is placed in the windows-niches of wooden walls, which is glued with adhesive tape and blown with foam. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the basalt fiber.

The inside of the wall upholstery can be made of wooden slats, but most often OSB boards or plywood are used in extensions, but walls can just as well be lined with drywall or MDF panels.

To insulate the floor, you can use cheaper expanded clay backfill, the material is quite strong and durable, on its basis you can build an ideally warm base of a wooden extension. Its only drawback is the strong absorption of water, if the extension room is heated intermittently for several days, then in a month the expanded clay will become wet from condensate, and it will be extremely difficult to dry it.

Some legal points

One of the reasons why the owners decide to build an additional room to a wooden house is a common misconception that light wooden extensions are not subject to registration with state authorities.

In fact, the situation is ambiguous. On the one hand, the Town Planning Code states that only small structures and details of capital buildings that do not affect communications, characteristics, fire safety and load-bearing elements of the structure are classified as non-permanent buildings. These include canopies, canopies, balconies and porch groups built on the same foundation with a capital house.

It is difficult to build an ordinary extension to a wooden house so that it looks like a balcony or a porch. The only exception is an extension in the form of a porch group or a covered veranda. It is enough to declare such an extension as an explicit character. To do this, an application is submitted to the BTI to amend the passport of a wooden house. In fact, a decision will be made, on the basis of which it is possible to re-register the documents.

For all other options for an extension to a wooden house, regardless of the size, material and foundation scheme, before starting work, it will be necessary to issue a building permit, provide a package of documents and pay a fee. All that remains is to build an extension and sign an acceptance certificate at the inspection.

The package of documents includes:

• cadastral plan,
• Passport for a wooden house;
• Site plan;
• Copies of documents of the owner;
• Extension project.

After coordination with the supervisory authorities and a positive decision of the commission, it will be possible to register the property and make changes to the technical passport.

Conclusion

You can build an additional room to a wooden house without permission. If all the norms of SNiPs for the construction of extensions are observed, then it is possible to register an unauthorized construction by a court decision. As a rule, objects with a readiness of more than 60% that do not pose a threat to the population and the environment receive a positive decision. This is not a quick and expensive business, sometimes it is easier and cheaper to build a wooden extension than to register it.

Proper construction of extensions for various purposes can not only expand the residential part of the house, but also improve its appearance and protect it from wear and tear. The construction of a veranda adjacent to the house, regardless of the type of building, requires careful project development, with the definition of materials and construction technology.

Proper execution and approval of project documentation in state institutions will not only insure against problems with the law, but also help to draw up a plan and estimate for the structure.

Design

A typical veranda is a roofed frame structure erected on a strip or column foundation, with glass or half glass walls. The statement that the veranda should be built from the same materials as the main building, with the emergence of new styles and fashion trends in architecture, has lost its relevance.

In the photos below - ready-made solutions for verandas attached to the house, with different principles of compatibility. In some cases, the new extension is made of the same materials and is completely combined with the house, in others the new one is combined with the preservation of common elements - the roof, beams, etc.

There are also projects in which the original design of the extension brings a new architectural touch, updating the exterior.

When choosing materials and construction technologies, one should also take into account the parameters of proper ventilation, moisture resistance and thermal insulation. With full glazing, it is necessary to provide opening segments for ventilation.

If an open veranda is being built, or, as it is also called, a summer terrace, you need to take care of the frost-resistant lining and tilt the floor towards the site.

Designs with removable frames are optimal for year-round use. The installation of large sliding doors will also allow the building to be used in a two-mode version.

In a typical project, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe veranda is rectangular and ranges from 10 to 15 sq.m. With smaller areas it will be too crowded, with large areas, additional reinforcement for the roof will be required. Polygonal and semi-circular foundations are also possible.

According to its location, the veranda can be corner, end or front. An original solution can be considered the construction of a terrace around the entire perimeter of the house, which can have glazed, open and closed areas for various purposes: they can accommodate an entrance hall, a recreation area, and a large pantry.

Foundation

The foundation of terraces and verandas attached to the house should fit snugly against the main building, but at the same time have independent supports.

The strip foundation is suitable for large and heavy structures; in all other cases, a columnar foundation can be erected. When pouring concrete, you need to leave a gap of 3-4 cm with the main wall, which will subsequently be filled with waterproofing foam.

At the first stage of preparation for construction, the soil is cleared and compacted. Then, corner holes are dug for the pillars along the depth of the foundation of the house (about 1 m on average), a pillow is made of crushed stone, gravel and sand, on which concrete is poured.

After setting, supports are inserted from asbestos or metal pipes. Concrete poles or bricks may also be used. The same method is used to lay high piles for buildings adjacent to the level of the second floor.

Depending on the area and weight of the terrace, intermediate posts may be needed, installed every half a meter.

For a tape-type foundation, a trench of 30-50 cm breaks through, the formwork is laid 15-20 cm higher. Metal reinforcement bars or reinforcing mesh are embedded in the soil. Concrete is poured onto a layer of crushed stone and sand.

Wooden frame

The frame is mounted from beams or logs with a width of at least 12 cm, which are covered with a waterproofing layer. For the strength of horizontal knitting, experts recommend using fasteners in the foot, while the connection surface will be at an angle. Vertical racks are fixed with diagonal interceptions.

At the final stage, the wooden frame is covered with rafters for the roof. For cladding, you can use plywood panels, chipboard boards, etc.

The construction of a wooden veranda is the best budget solution for the prices of materials, but when choosing this type of building, you need a professional approach and knowledge of the nuances of building from a wooden beam.

Other materials for verandas

The construction of foam blocks is being built on a strip foundation. It is easy to make such a masonry yourself. Laying is carried out with the help of special glue, with dressing of seams for strength.

When finishing, an internal and external waterproofing layer is provided, finishing with drywall, wooden panels, moisture-resistant wallpaper and paints. The outer surface can be lined with ventilated facades.

Polycarbonate structure construction, modern and attractive option. This material is well combined in buildings with a wooden and brick frame.

For a building that consists entirely of bicarbonate shields, no foundation is needed. The earth can simply be compacted and covered with paving slabs.

The design is created using aluminum profiles, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of ventilation and water drainage. Polycarbonate panels and frames of various types can be customized for specific needs for lighting and thermal insulation.

Before you attach a veranda to the house, you need to decide on the functions that it will perform. In addition to the drainage and ventilation systems necessary in any case, the correct connection to the capital structure and the roof structure, the schedule for using this part of the house is important.

The design and construction of summer verandas differs from the requirements for premises with year-round operation. It is also important to note that any extension will require the same care and renovation as permanent buildings.

Photo of the veranda attached to the house

The desire to improve their living conditions by increasing the number of square meters appeared in every owner of a private house. The owners of apartments are not far behind in this and would also be happy to add at least one room to themselves.

There is nothing impossible in this, extensions to apartment buildings are a dime a dozen, you just need to know how to do it correctly, and not only from a legal point of view. The key to successful construction and comfortable living is the proper organization of work and compliance with the technology of the process.

Extension layout

They begin the construction of the extension from the most, perhaps, the main thing - with permission for this very construction. Without the appropriate piece of paper, you can run into a serious fine, and the funds spent will be wasted.

The next stage is also theoretical. Determine what purpose the extension being built will have. Will it be a living space or a winter garden, a storage room or just an emergency exit porch. From the purpose of the structure directly depend on the cash injections into the construction.

It will be logical to draw up a drawing correctly, the drawing helps to understand how to make an extension to the house, to make approximate calculations on the amount of material needed. Then they go to the place of future construction and transfer the drawing to the place, indicating the dimensions of the extension with the help of a cord and metal or wooden pegs. It is on the spot that they carefully examine how the new foundation will be combined with the existing one and whether the future extension fits into the architecture.

Material selection

Experts advise to approach this issue simply: what material the main house is built from, the same should be used for the extension. Simply put, if the house is wooden, then a wooden extension should be attached to it. The same applies to brick and concrete. But technical progress in the field of building materials does not stand still, and now universal materials have appeared, for example, foam and gas blocks. In addition to its versatility, it is an environmentally friendly and heat-saving material. You can veneer such an extension with decorative plates that imitate the material of the walls of the main building, which will create the appearance of execution in the same style.

But there are exceptions. In some climatic zones, it is possible to make an extension made of wood to a concrete building if it is used as a storage room or garage. Even a bathhouse can be built from logs and attached to your apartment. The flight of fancy in such cases is limited only by financial possibilities.

Foundation construction

The most important stage of construction -. Even the strongest walls made of modern and expensive materials will be useless on a poor and flimsy foundation, so the answer to the question of how to make an extension to the house, the answer is to choose the right foundation. There are three main types of foundation:

• monolithic reinforced concrete, ;
• columnar.

The first option is universal, it is suitable for all types of buildings, the same applies to the columnar foundation. The pile version is suitable for attaching a light veranda or utility room, which is insignificant in its weight and massiveness. This option is characterized by ease of implementation and pace of construction.

The first step to pouring the foundation should be research work to study the soil. This is done by specialized enterprises, it is extremely difficult to do it on your own, and the costs for the services of these specialists are incomparably small compared to the cost of losing the entire extension.

After issuing recommendations on the type, depth of the foundation and the need to link it to the main building, they begin marking on the spot. The contour is measured very carefully, observing the geometry of the corners, so as not to correct the trench during work.

Start digging a trench from the lowest angle, maintaining the required depth. It is best to immediately put up temporary supports to prevent the collapse of the walls. When earthworks are completed, a pillow of sand and gravel is arranged at the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand 100-150 mm thick. it is well compacted, and the same layer of rubble is poured on top. Since we are building an extension to the house with our own hands, all work is done with high quality and conscientiously.

The construction of frame walls will be relatively universal. The technology is little known to a wide range of the population, so many treat it with distrust, and completely in vain.

Popular frame walls

A frame wall is a complex structure. It is complex and multi-layered. Those who wish to apply this particular method often do not know how to make an extension using walls of this design. The wooden frame consists of the upper and lower wall trim. Auxiliary beams and racks are used to obtain the necessary rigidity of the structure, and doors and windows are placed between the crossbars.

The finished wall frame is sheathed on both sides with boards, forming a void, which is filled with insulation, a protective membrane and, without fail, a vapor barrier. A layer of vapor barrier is required. It prevents moisture from getting inside along with warm air from inside the room. Wet insulation loses its properties, and in addition, moisture is very detrimental to the wooden base of the house.

The problem of insulation can be solved by various mineral and glass materials, which are now offered in a large assortment on the construction materials market.

The erection of frame walls begins with the fact that the horizontal strapping beams are attached to the foundation. This is usually done with metal anchors. It is worth mentioning in particular that the waterproofing layer of the foundation should already be laid, and the lower beam should be mounted on top of it. Next, corner and load-bearing racks of the frame are mounted on the lower trim, which are fixed to stiffen with braces.
The upper harness is laid on top of the racks, which are fastened with straight spikes. Sheathing and internal insulation are produced from the inside of the house. Moving outside, the laying sequence is as follows: first the inner lining, then the vapor barrier, glass or mineral insulation, and finally the windproof layer. All this is covered with outer casing.

The outer skin must have good moisture protection qualities, be resistant to wind and all kinds of weather conditions. Typically, this material is "lining" or non-profiled planed board. They must be nailed horizontally. The "lining" is fastened with the inner crest up, and the usual board with overlap and overhang one above the other. Such a scheme allows you to reliably protect the inner layer of insulation from moisture, slanting rain and snowstorms.

Building an extension to the house, you can use almost any material. It is important to remember that some of them are toxic and unsuitable for interior cladding. Fibreboard, plywood or drywall will be an excellent basis for further interior improvements.

roof construction

Usually choose a shed option for the roof of the extension. With this option, the angle of inclination should be at least 25-30˚. Having determined the angle of inclination, fix the beam on the main part of the building. The lower support will be the wall, its outer edge, or the laid floors of the new structure. The edge of the roof should protrude at least 300 mm. from the wall, for maximum protection against rain. After installing the rafters, the main roof is being installed, if it is a hard roof. When choosing a flexible tile, an additional base is laid, in the form of plywood or similar material.

Flooring and interior work

The choice of floor will be dictated by the purpose of the structure. For a residential option, insulation is necessary, by installing a wooden beam and laying insulation, it is also possible to install a warm floor. For a garage or pantry, a concrete floor is quite suitable. This issue must be approached on an individual basis. The same applies to interior decoration.

Having studied the materials of this article, there should be no questions left about how to properly make an extension to a wooden house, since both the choice of material and the stages of construction are similar and suitable for such a construction.

Most projects of individual houses provide only a residential part without additional outbuildings. Over time, residents, in the presence of free space near the house, often need to expand the structure with their own hands or with the involvement of qualified specialists. This can be due to a variety of reasons, such as an increase in the number of residents, the purchase of a car that will require a garage, and other circumstances. Annex - an auxiliary part of the building, which is adjacent to its main walls from one or more sides.

Varieties of attached buildings

The building can be:

1. Open, in the form of a canopy adjacent to the main wall, a summer veranda, porch or terrace.
2. closed:
   • living room with panoramic windows;
   • several additional living rooms;
   • kitchen with barbecue and dining area;
   • a separate recreation area, a children's play complex or a sports gym;
   • insulated garage;
   • workshop with pantries;
   • sanitary unit with a swimming pool or bath;
   • Russian bath or sauna, made mainly from wooden logs or timber as an extension to wooden houses;
   • greenhouses for year-round cultivation of vegetables, a greenhouse or a winter garden;
   • to accommodate boiler equipment for heating.
3. Superstructure in the form of an attic, provided that the bearing capacity of the existing foundation allows such an increase in load.

Depending on the purpose, a heated warm annex is arranged or without heating.

Required approvals

An extension project to a private house can be ordered from specialized design organizations or developed independently. To change the design of the building, it is necessary to obtain a building permit from the local administrative authorities, which is necessary, as well as for the construction of the main house. The project should be coordinated with bodies a dignity. and fire supervision, communal department. If the distances from the border with neighboring plots, regulated by building codes, are not observed, a written agreement of the neighbors is necessary, preferably notarized. The illegality of the construction of an extension is also recognized in the absence of a written consent of all the co-owners of the building to carry out the work.

It should be borne in mind that a work permit is issued only with the existing registration of rights to own a land plot and a house in Rosreestr, taking into account in the state cadastre. In the absence of the necessary approvals, the structure may be declared illegal and subject to demolition. It is not necessary to obtain a permit for the construction of simple sheds or a porch.

Structures and materials for the construction of the superstructure of buildings

The added part should harmoniously fit into the overall interior of the house. A two-story extension to a one-story building will look ridiculous, which, moreover, will significantly complicate construction. It is recommended to use for the construction of walls the same materials from which the main structure is built. For an extension to a wooden house, use wood, and brick brick. You can use foam or aerated concrete blocks, and for a harmonious combination with the design of the house, veneer under a tree or brick. A high or turning porch, as well as open verandas and terraces, must be framed with a railing.

It is desirable to build the foundation of a capital extension to an old house of the same type as the one existing under the main building. Of course, for the construction of a simple canopy, porch or open veranda, there is no need for a powerful foundation. In most cases, a columnar foundation with a small laying depth or screw piles is sufficient.

For capital buildings and garages, reliable and durable foundation structures are needed. Mainly prefabricated and monolithic tapes or a monolithic slab. When using poles and screw piles, it is mandatory to tie with a grillage, and to protect the space under the floor, pick up from the cladding with basement siding with insulation from basalt mineral wool or other similar heaters. On the top of the foundation, horizontal waterproofing is required from rolled waterproofing materials (stekloizol, hydroisol, rubemast or roofing material).

A good option is a frame extension to the house. The frame is constructed from wooden blocks filled with insulation (for example, mineral wool boards) and lined with thick moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards or other materials. The attached building can be made with window openings. The doorway is more convenient internal, which allows passage to the attached part without going outside. But it is also possible to enter the device directly from the street.

The roof is most often arranged single-pitched. It is important to ensure that snow does not accumulate at the junction, so the roof is made with a slope angle of ≥ 25 degrees. The canopy is most often covered with sheets of monolithic polycarbonate or ondulin.

The floor, depending on the purpose of the room, can be concrete (mainly in garages, workshops and storerooms), wood, lined with porcelain stoneware or tiles. Often arranged "warm floors".

The walls of the garage are recommended to be built from non-combustible products (brick, concrete or lightweight concrete blocks) with overlapping with reinforced concrete slabs or corrugated board. Be sure to provide a number of ventilation holes.

How to make an adjoining extension to the house

The connection of an existing building with an extension is one of the most crucial moments of construction. If construction technologies are not observed, cracks will inevitably form in the junctions with opening up to large cracks. This is caused by the difference in the existing loads and the complete absence or slowdown of the settlement of the foundation of the old house.

Attachment of the attached part is carried out in the following two options:

1. With an expansion joint without direct contact between foundations, walls and roofs. It is recommended in the presence of problem soils (peat or clay). A gap is provided between the constructs, which is later filled with elastic heat and waterproofing materials. It is permissible to lay a board treated with several layers of bituminous mastic. The resulting seam is closed with decorative inserts. Be sure to eliminate the possibility of the formation of "snow bags" on the roof at the interface.
2. Inclusion of all constructs in joint work. The new foundation is arranged with occurrence at the same depth as the existing one. It is applied at the bases from the soils which are not subject to heaving. The contacting surface of the old one is cleaned of soil, a layer of waterproofing, and a notch is made with a perforator. Reinforcing bars are tightly hammered into the drilled holes with sealing of the holes. The obtained mortgages are connected by welding with the reinforcing cage of the extension foundation, and concreting is carried out with a thorough compaction of the mixture using a deep vibrator. Brick walls are connected in the same way. The rods are placed every two rows in the seams of the new masonry. Wooden structures are tightened with steel bolts or studs with double-sided thread, complete with wide washers, nuts and locknuts. To pair the roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roofing and jointly fasten the rafters and beams of the house and the extension with the addition of new additional nodes and racks. In some cases, it may be necessary to build a common truss system or replace elements of greater length.

The second option is more complex, laborious and costly, although it cannot be guaranteed that the joint of the joints will not disperse over time.

Depending on the design, materials of the existing house and the purpose of the attached premises, the foundation type, material and thickness of the walls, the truss system and roofing materials for the new building are selected.

Before deciding how to build an extension, it is necessary to foresee all the possible nuances of future construction and to ensure that you protect yourself from possible administrative sanctions.

Advantages of an extension compared to a freestanding building

• Reducing the scope of work on the supply of engineering communications (electricity, water supply, heating, sewerage, ventilation).
• Less material consumption and cost of construction, since at least one existing wall is used.
• Rational use of the territory without cluttering with additional buildings.
• Additional insulation that prevents the penetration of cold air directly into the house with a decrease in heat loss.