When building a house with at least 2 floors, you definitely need to think about the stairs in it. And if the house will be built with your own hands, it is logical to do the stairs as well.
Various photos of stairs help to make a preliminary choice and clearly understand what type of lift you need. But before undertaking work, carefully calculate the future design for strength and dimensions, this will save time and money, because incorrect calculations (or lack thereof) will lead to numerous alterations of the original project.
Stair types
There are a large number of different options for flights of stairs. They differ in the material of manufacture (wood, concrete or metal), the type of rise (sloping stairs, spiral, with a turn by a certain degree).
The most common is a ladder made of wood. Also often construct a staircase with a turn of 90 degrees. It is not uncommon for these two types of lifting device to be combined into one.
In case of limited space, a spiral staircase is made of metal. The screw type of lifting saves space, and the manufacture of metal increases the strength of the structure. Concrete is used for stairs in massive buildings (for example, mansions).
What to look out for
In a low-rise building, having no construction experience, it is better to order a modular staircase, a kind of designer, where all the details are sawn and numbered, and you just have to assemble them using the instructions. These are usually made of wooden stairs.
When building a staircase made of concrete, in addition to pouring the frame, you will need to perform an external finish (beautiful stone or wood materials). It's a double waste of time and money. However, for cottages of 3 or more floors, they are mandatory according to fire safety requirements.
When making a staircase for the first time, you do not need to aim at a complex structure right away. The simpler the model, the more likely it is that you will be able to successfully build this lifting device on the first attempt.
Pay attention to the angle of inclination of the stairs: if it is more than 45 degrees, the ladder will be considered attached, and you can only go down it backwards. The optimal angle of elevation is considered to be 37 degrees.
Wood as a material for construction is preferable, as it allows, thanks to its properties, to correct minor construction flaws that have arisen due to inaccurate calculations and inexperience of the contractor.
Also, after construction, the building may settle due to loose soil, as a result, the staircase can become several centimeters higher or lower than the floor, and it is easier to fix this in a wooden structure.
When constructing a lift with a turn towards it, the distance between the spans must be at least 100 mm.
Stages of construction
Answering the question of how to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, there are several stages of construction.
The first stage of any structure, whether it is a staircase to a house or an interfloor staircase, is the creation of a project. Particular attention should be paid to the safety of the building and its ease of use.
The structure must withstand the average weight of an ordinary person with a fair margin. Be sure to use railings!
If they are not available, another fence must be designed to ensure the safety of descent and ascent.
Consider creating a wooden staircase with stringers
After you have designed your building, you need to prepare the materials. In our case, choose boards of suitable thickness and length, prepare balusters with railings and prepare stringers. This will be the second stage of construction.
As a material for stringers, a pine board 4 cm thick is suitable. On it, we mark the steps according to the pattern and cut them out with an electric jigsaw.
Note!
We use the resulting product as a model for the second (and if the width of the stairs is more than a meter, then the third) kosour. We cut the required number of steps in size.
The third step is to assemble all the parts together. First of all, the stringers are installed in their places of permanent placement. Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, the steps are attached to the stringers.
Then, using studs, they put balusters on the steps, and handrails are attached to them. The stairs are ready!
DIY staircase photo
Note!
One-story buildings in the private sector are built only to support economic activities, and are used as ancillary buildings. A full-fledged residential building with at least 2 floors. Therefore, one cannot do without such a functional element as a staircase to the second floor.
The problem of moving from one level to another can be solved simply - buy a ready-made kit and install it yourself.
Its cost starts from about 33,000 rubles (pine, 14 steps, a turning staircase with two spans). Do-it-yourself installation is easy. The problem is different - how will it fit into the interior, will it be necessary to adjust individual elements or partially reconstruct the 1st floor?
Many companies provide services for the manufacture of kits according to customer drawings, but as practice shows, such stairs cost 1.5 times more. That is why most often the most acceptable option is to make a wooden staircase to the second floor from scratch, which is quite possible with your own hands.
How to do it, what to pay attention to - this article is devoted to this.
Terminology
Before proceeding to the consideration of design features, some specific definitions should be “deciphered”. The main elements are shown in the diagrams.
- Step. Its horizontal part is called a tread, the vertical (it may not be) - a riser.
- Support beams. If the steps are adjacent to them with end parts, then this is a bowstring. If they are "superimposed" on the beam and their edges protrude beyond it, then it is called a kosour.
- Railing supports. They are often called balusters or pillars. For screw construction, the term rack is used.
- Fasteners. In some types of stairs, the steps are fixed directly on the adjoining wall with special bolts - bolts.
Types of staircase designs
For self-production, the simplest are marching ones. For a private house, they are installed with one or two spans. Self-assembly spiral staircases are much more difficult (). In addition, the production of the necessary calculations for them has its own specifics.
Features of calculating the parameters of the stairs
The following are general recommendations that are only desirable to focus on when designing an internal staircase. Since all houses (and premises) differ in architecture, dimensions, layout, there can be no single template in principle.
steepness
The optimal slope of the spans is in the range from 35 to 450. It is much more difficult to climb the steeper stairs (especially for people with disabilities, the elderly or small children). Yes, and carrying large, heavy things from floor to floor will also be complicated.
A flatter design is inconvenient in that more space will be needed for its installation, as the length of each span will increase. And which particular angle to choose is at the discretion of the owner.
Width
It is unlikely that anyone in a private house will move from floor to floor as part of a “group of comrades”, therefore, when drawing up a diagram, it is advisable to focus on the dimensions of one person. A staircase with a width of about 1.2 - 1.5 m for a private house is quite an acceptable option. And walking on it, and even carrying furniture will be quite convenient.
Step parameters
- Tread. A person’s foot should completely fit on it (based on the 45th size), so the optimal width of the step is within 250 - 300 mm.
- Riser. In order to make it convenient for people of any height and age to move, its height is taken within 150 - 200 mm. Quite enough, regardless of the design.
On a note! All indicated dimensions are exactly the same for each step of one staircase. Otherwise, there is no need to talk about the convenience of moving.
Ladder height
It is defined as the distance from the floor covering of the lower floor to the ceiling + the thickness of the ceiling. For example, 270 + 40 - 310 (cm).
Number of steps
The height of the structure (310) is divided by the sum of the riser value and the thickness of the tread board, after which it is rounded up to a whole value (up). For example, if "magpie" is used, then 20 + 4 = 24 cm.
Total - 310: 24 = 13 (steps).
Recommendation - for stairs with more than 18 steps and a steepness of 450, special platforms should be installed. Depending on the purpose, they are called differently - rotary, viewing, intermediate. Consequently, the staircase itself will already consist of separate flights (flights). They can be of the same type, or made according to different schemes, since the site is not necessarily located exactly in the center of the structure.
Ladder length
It is easy to determine it, knowing the number of steps and the size of each tread. These values are multiplied. If the steps have protrusions, then they are not taken into account.
Sometimes calculations show that such a design "does not fit" in a particular room. In such cases, either the number of marches is increased, or the so-called winder (turning) steps are equipped.
Winder steps - top view
Height of spans relative to the floor
It is necessary to focus on the height of a person + a small margin. The design is considered optimal, in which the distance between the extreme steps and the ceiling is at least 2 m. Otherwise, a tall person at the end of the span will have to bend his head.
materials
In most cases, a wood species such as pine is chosen. It is inexpensive, but it is not characterized by durability. Larch - in many ways preferable. The presence of a special resin in its structure makes the material even stronger when absorbing moisture. And this is important for a home staircase, given the specifics of its operation. All other options, for example, oak, cedar, maple and a number of others, cannot be called budget.
Before you start working with wood, it must be properly dried. Further shrinkage of the material (including twisting) will cause the staircase to literally fall apart.
The order of work on the installation of stairs
Consider the simplest example - single-flight stairs. This option can be considered basic, since the algorithm of actions is the same, regardless of the number of spans.
Preparation of structural elements
- Kosoura. The main requirement is that they must be absolutely identical. The board is only solid, without defects, not less than "forty". Accordingly, cuts are made under the steps in advance.
- Steps. The edges must be rounded, as sharp edges increase the risk of injury. The board is selected absolutely flat, carefully processed (polished). The length is calculated so that their edges protrude beyond the stringers by no more than 2 - 4 cm. Thickness - in the range of 300 - 400 mm.
- Riser. They do not experience significant load, since it falls mainly on the support beams. In order not to increase the total weight of the span, a board of 15 is enough for them.
Tip - it is better not to install risers for a private house, since it is much more difficult to clean on a staircase of this (closed) type.
- Handrails, balusters. It is unlikely that it will be possible to make them on your own so that the staircase becomes not only a means of transportation, but also a decoration of the house. Therefore, these structural elements should either be purchased in a store or ordered in a workshop.
Ladder assembly
Wall marking
According to the installation diagram and drawing.
Fastening of support beams (stringers)
The fixation of the upper part of the march is done in different ways (as convenient). Option number 1 - cuts are made in the floor beam. Option number 2 - metal stops are used, which are fixed on the beam with anchors. In any case, the junction of structural elements should be as reliable as possible.
To fix the bottom of the stringers, a support beam is mounted on the floor. To the wall - fixing on.
Installation of risers
If they are mounted, then they are screwed to the stringers.
Laying steps
They are fixed both on the support beams and on the risers (at least at one point, in the center).
For the convenience of work, the installation of steps begins from the bottom. The options are shown in the diagram.
Installation of balusters
First of all, the extreme ones are fixed - above and below the march. A “bowstring” is stretched between them, focusing on which, you can mount the rest of the racks.
Handrail Installation
They are fixed on each of the racks, which are located on the march. They can be made from almost any material - metal, plastic, and not just wood.
Treatment
The article outlines only the general procedure and gives basic recommendations. Having decided on the specific design of the stairs, you should study all the available material on this topic, since different models have their own nuances of both installation and calculations of individual components. For example, rotary steps, which can be either rectangular or segmental.
You can watch a video instruction for making a wooden staircase:
But the general rules of work are described in detail, and the author hopes that this article will help the reader in self-design. Good luck!
Wooden stairs are gaining more and more popularity every year. This is due, first of all, to the fact that people more often began to purchase country houses with several floors. When arranging the room, the correct choice of steps plays an important role. Stairs made of natural wood have many positive aspects. This type of product can be both bought and made independently. To do this, you need to collect a certain set of tools, buy good wood and be patient.
How to calculate correctly?
Before starting work, special attention should be paid to the choice of the main material. Wooden stairs to the second floor can be made from different types of trees, but pine is best suited. This type of raw material is characterized by softness and low price. With such material it will be easy to work even for a beginner.
A staircase made of solid pine will not darken if, before starting work, the raw materials are treated with a high-quality special agent.
In order for the design to be reliable and last for many years, it is recommended to buy wood of more expensive varieties. These include beech, oak, larch. They have a denser structure, but have a high price.
The main types of stairs:
- screw;
- marching.
For the manufacture of the first option, in addition to wooden materials, metal ones are also used. Such ladders are intended only for the movement of a person. It is almost impossible to lift furniture or other dimensional elements along them. Often, screw structures are chosen in rooms of a small area. Popular types of wooden stairs are shown in the photo below: 
Marching are the most practical and easy to manufacture. Such structures are divided into many types. They can be either single-march or consist of several parts. In the second option, a platform is often used that separates these elements and is used to create a turn.
Before you start work, you need to calculate the wooden stairs:
- The product should not have an inclination angle greater than 45 0 .
- Tread depth - not less than 25 cm.
- The dimensions of the riser should be in the range of 16-20 cm.
- Opening width from 1000 mm.
- The height of the railing is from 1 meter. For children - 60 cm.
- The opening is vertical - at least 2 meters.
In order to determine the number of steps, it is necessary to divide the height of the future staircase by the height of the riser. The resulting number should be rounded up to an integer. This indicator will be the number of steps. 
An accurate calculation can be made using a special computer program. Using simple rules and recommendations, you can make a comfortable, and most importantly, reliable staircase.
Product design
Before you make a wooden staircase, you need to know what it consists of. This will help you quickly create the option that will best fit into the chosen interior of the room.
For ease of movement, the number of steps should be odd.
The design of the flight of stairs includes the following parts:
- Bowstring. This element acts as a carrier beam and is an additional fastener for the steps.
- Kosoura. They are cuts that are created in the main parallel beams. They are needed to accommodate the treads.
- Riser. They are designed to cover the visible part between the steps. Riser mounted vertically. These elements are optional.
- Tread. This type of element is the upper part of the steps.
- Balusters. With this part, maximum rigidity and strength of the product is achieved. Elements are attached to the steps and railings.
- Columns. They are also often referred to as support rods. This is the main part of screw structures.
- Handrails. Mounted on top of balusters.
- Radius risers. They are presented in the form of a rounded shape. Installed at the bottom of the stairs.
- Decorative pieces. They are mounted on poles. They are often referred to as stubs.
- Running step. It is mounted at the very beginning of the flight of stairs. Its distinctive feature is its unusual shape.
The complexity of the structure depends not only on the type of structure, but also on the method of manufacture. A wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands for a private house can be made both on bowstrings and on stringers.
Bowstrings are mounted from the end of the tread. For this, corners, grooves and construction glue are used. They can also be fixed using bars. All elements are fixed with bolts or self-tapping screws. 
As for the kosour, they are placed under the steps themselves. For their installation, special fasteners are used. 
For the manufacture of bowstrings and stringers, it is best to use oak or ash. Also masters prefer larch. Such tree species will make the structure more reliable.
Markup and creation of elements
The manufacture of wooden stairs should be started only after a full calculation has been made. You also need to finally decide on the place where the product will be installed.
Sequencing:
If the steps will be laid on stringers, then their length should be 10-20 mm longer, and the width should be 20-30 mm.
Particular attention should be paid to wooden railings for stairs. Sanding them should be in several stages, reducing the graininess of the paper. Thus, the handrails will turn out perfectly smooth.
Also, do not forget about the connector to the second floor. If it is not there, then the dismantling method will require removing part of the floor.
Installation of a wooden ladder
Mounting the structure is the main part of the work. A lot depends on the correct assembly of the elements.
The installation of a wooden staircase must begin with the fastening of the support beam. It is fixed to the floor where the stairs will begin. Then a kosour is attached to the beam. This can be done in two ways: washed down in a beam or washed down in a stringer.
After that, the product is fixed on the support beam, to the side wall and ceiling opening. As soon as the first kosour is well fixed, you can proceed to the second. The second element is set according to the length of the prepared steps.
The top step should be on the same level with the floor of the second floor.
Depending on the width of the stairs and the expected loads, you can use not two stringers, but three or more. The use of several elements gives the structure rigidity.
In order for the steps not to be tilted in different directions, the stringers should be installed as evenly as possible.
After the main parts are attached, you can proceed with the installation of the risers, and then to the steps. The treads are fastened with wood screws to the stringers and risers. It is important to ensure that the fasteners are well deepened into the wood. 
The installation of balusters and pillars must begin from the markup where they will be located. The hole for the dowel should be located in the middle of the baluster. Fasteners are fixed into the connector with glue. They should protrude 10-15 cm up. Under the size of the dowel, a hole is drilled in the baluster. 
Then the columns are attached. On a single-march structure, they are mounted at the beginning and end. At first, only the upper elements should be attached, the lower ones will be installed at the very last moment.
After that, you need to fix one or two balusters. This is necessary in order to determine the angle of the surface. To do this, you need to attach a handrail. Cut off the unnecessary part from all elements.
Then the base and holes of the prepared balusters are carefully treated with glue and connected to the dowels. 
The railings are cut at the required angle. Holes are made on the sections to connect them with the posts, using a dowel. The slats are attached to the balusters after the glue has completely dried. They are also fixed with adhesive and self-tapping screws. For reliable fastening we use. 
The bottom column is installed last. It is also fixed to the railing with a dowel. After the glue has completely dried, the handmade wooden staircase is considered ready.
To prevent the material from infecting fungus and insects, the wood must be painted with an antiseptic. The stairs should be varnished or other paints and varnishes after the primer dries well. This will require you to wait at least 24 hours. If this is not done, then the paint will not lay down evenly and will begin to peel off over time.
It is not difficult to make a staircase out of wood. By following the sequence of actions and recommendations, you can make a beautiful, strong and durable structure that will decorate the room for many years.
So, how do professionals advise to perform the calculation in XXI century?
Stair design can be done in a variety of ways. Each is based on optimal dimensions flight of stairs necessary for comfortable and safe movement.
Naturally, the most comfortable there will be a gentle and not narrow staircase, but, as a rule, practical circumstances dictate restrictions on the choice key parameters which include: view stairs, lifting height, plan area, tilt angle, number of steps, width and height of each.
These indicators interconnected and cannot be determined individually. For example, for a simple single-flight staircase, the height of the rise and the angle of inclination rigidly set the area in the plan, and vice versa, knowledge of the area in the plan and the height will leave no doubt about the magnitude of the angle of inclination of the stairs.
In this article we we will not consider exotic options, like stairs with elements of three-dimensional curvature, but let's focus on the structures familiar and feasible for the home master on stringers and scarves.
Step size
This is perhaps one of the main characteristics of the stairs. It depends on them how comfortable and safe households will be able to go up to the second floor and go down.
Master Novitsky Oleg Vadimovich in the book “Modern stairs. Design, manufacture, installation.» (best wishes to the author and this marvelous work) mentions recommended and repeatedly tested values for lifting ( h) and tread ( a) steps:
h×a = 150×300, 160×300, 170×290 mm.
These sizes are good, but, unfortunately, cannot be used if the house has already been built and the total height of the stairs ( H) is not a multiple of a single step ( h). In this case, we can turn to the calculation formulas.
Widely known convenience formula:
a - h = 12 cm.
According to this ratio, the stairs will be the most convenient.
The ladder is considered safe if the sum of the dimensions ( With) the width of the tread and the height of the riser is equal to 45 cm:
30+15; 27+18; 25+20 .
Accordingly, this equation is called safety formulas :
c = a + h = 45 cm.
The difficulty is that the formulas are applicable in small range sizes and it is not always possible to realize the necessary proportion in practice. In this case, you should “get” into the indicated proportions with a minimum deviation or use the universal Blondel's formula, which takes into account the average step of a person. More on that below.
| Floor height, m | Number of steps n | Step height h, mm | Step width b, mm | Grade h:b |
| 2.25 for basements | 12 | 118 | 260 | 1:1,38 |
| 13 | 173 | 260 | 1:1,50 | |
| 2,50 | 14 | 179 | 260 | 1:1,45 |
| 14 | 179 | 290 | 1:1,62 | |
| 2,75 | 15 | 183 | 260 | 1:1,42 |
| 16 | 172 | 260 | 1:1,51 | |
| 16 | 172 | 290 | 1:1,69 | |
| 3,00 | 17 | 176 | 290 | 1:1,65 |
| 18 | 167 | 290 | 1:1,74 |
note: in single-flight stairs, as well as in one flight of two- and three-flight stairs within the first floor, no more than 18 lifts (steps). Limit height steps - 220 mm ( SNiP 21-01-97).
For designing a simple wooden staircase on stringers measure the height between floors(vertical distance from the bottom floor to the top floor).
By the way height between floors- this is the "sickest" size. In houses made of stone, very often there are deviations from the project on 4-5 cm, and wooden ones are subject to shrinkage and shrinkage (up to 15 see per floor). Ideally, you should wait for the complete shrinkage of the log house in a few years.
Also dimensions for calculating the stairs it is better to remove when finishing floors are laid or should be clearly defined horizontal levels heights.
So let height in our case:
Choose riser height:
Dividing the height between floors by the height of the risers, we get required number of steps:
270: 18 = 15 pieces.
To determine the optimal step width, use convenience formula:
a - h \u003d 12, h \u003d 18 cm.
Comfortable tread width:
a = 12 + h = 30 cm.
So it is necessary 15 steps wide 30 cm and a length depending on the width of the opening in the interfloor ceiling. Checking the stairs safety formula:
a + h = 46 + 3 cm
In this case:
18 + 30 = 48 cm.
Stairs safe and convenient to operate.
This example of calculations is given by Stolyarov A.N. in the book " We build stairs».
French architect and engineer still in the distant 1672 suggested the following relation:
Where S is the average step of a person who is within 600-640 mm.
Can be converted to inequality:
lower practical result would be minimum lift steps:
h = 120 mm, a = 400 mm, slope 17 degrees.
With a smaller angle, it is no longer a staircase, but a ramp (ramp) - a gentle inclined platform.
Upper step rise:
h = 220 mm, a = 200 mm, slope 48 degrees.
At the upper limit of the formula, we get not the most comfortable ladder, usable only when moving facing the steps.
Going down the ladder is more dangerous than going up, hence ease of use evaluate on the move down. An example of the master's thoughts according to Blondel's formula:
We measure the height between floors:
H = 3050 mm.
Determine the rise of the steps h by dividing H for the possible number of lifts ( n). Value options:
With 17 lifts: h = H / n = 3050 / 17 = 179.4 mm.
At 18: h \u003d H / n \u003d 3050/18 \u003d 169.4 mm.
At 19: h = H / n = 3050/19 = 160.5 mm.
A = 5000 mm.
The length of the travel line should not be less than the height between floors ( H), otherwise the stairs will be impractically steep. In our example:
A (5000) > H (3050).
At n = 18 tread a = 5000 / (n - 1) = 294 mm.
The actual number of steps on 1 less than the calculated value. This fact is easy to accept if the first step is considered at the floor level.
Step parameter according to Blondel:
169 × 2 + 294 = 632 mm.
Consequently, size is acceptable, is organic and lies within the average human step. We determined the width of the tread and the height of the riser for easy movement, but this is not enough to build a comfortable and safe staircase.
Line of march and middle line of march
travel line (A) is a horizontal projection of the imaginary movement of a person along the steps. Passes in the distance 300-500 mm from the inner edge of the stairs. This average size determines handrail comfort. The children will go nearer to the railing, adults - farther.
Sometimes for direct march, this size is neglected, since the edges of the steps are parallel.
If the width of the stairs is up to 1000 mm, then the line of motion will coincide with the middle line of the march. If more 1000 mm, then the travel line is shifted to the handrail. The calculation algorithm is as follows:
With chalk or a plumb line draw the intended line on the floor(or lines) of the course. Fix the size with a tape measure and correlate it with the height of the stairs. It's great if the line of motion more than the height in 1,7 times - then the slope will be 30 °.
All received indicators of the size of the tread calculate using Blondel's formula to determine the optimal one.
The relative value of the rise of the march (angle of rise)
In construction practice, the angle of elevation, as a rule, is in the range from 20 before 50 degrees, but stairs with an angle from 30 before 45 degrees.
Dependency table step sizes from the angle of inclination:
Choice tilt angle causes a margin of distance (critical height) of at least 2000 mm from any step to the ceiling or any protruding element of the building (beams, parapet):
critical height convenient to check by drawing the calculated steps on any sheet material or directly on the wall. As design practice shows, very often a line drawn from a ceiling or a dangerous ledge will be less than the desired value.
It is for this reason that it is not possible to design a staircase that is gentle enough. With an increase in the angle of inclination, comfort decreases, therefore, with a low average height of all households, sometimes this size is still underestimated.
In the already mentioned work of Novitsky O.V. "Modern stairs. Design, manufacture, installation.» a real practical case is considered, in which even 6 options for the location of the stairs in the room.
In any case, the final result is usually golden mean between many conflicting arguments.
March width
March width is determined by the capacity of the stairs (the number of people per minute at the narrowest point) and assumes the comfortable movement of an adult.
For intra-apartment flights of stairs, building codes define this value (the size from the wall to the railing or between two railings on the left and right sides) at least 900 mm, in luxury homes 1250-1600 mm.
Provided width exceptions flight of stairs ( 0,8 m) some types of stairs (for example, in garden houses), but when designing a staircase, this size should be guided only in conditions of a severe lack of free space in the room.
Width less than 0.8m can afford auxiliary structures, for example, stairs to the basement or to the attic.
Standard elements
Every good owner knows how to count money. Building stairs is no exception. Can good to save if the details of the stairs at the design stage turn out fit to standard blanks accepted on the territory RF.
Economic Considerations can become the key argument that will allow the owner to choose the only option for the location of the stairs from several possible ones.
1. Standards on the steps.
Available with fillet R12.5. invitations steps:
| № | Size, mm |
| 1 | H 220×400×1200, R200 |
| 2 | H220×400×1400, R200 |
Winder triangular a step of a non-standard size to order is calculated as a rectangular one (the necessary one is simply cut out of it). That's why it is advisable to order rectangular. The cost is identical, and trimmings will come in handy in the work.
Large steps can be made from furniture board sizes:
| № | Size (H×W×D), mm |
| 1 | 38×400×2000 |
| 2 | 38×500×1500 |
| 3 | 38×500×2000 |
| 4 | 38×700×1500 |
| 5 | 38×1000×1000 |
| 6 | 38×1100×1100 |
| 7 | 38×1200×1200 |
2. Riser.
| № | Size (H×W×D), mm |
| 1 | 18×180×900 |
| 2 | 18×180×1000 |
| 3 | 18×180×1100 |
| 4 | 18×180×1200 |
| 5 | 18×180×1300 |
| 6 | 18×180×1400 |
| 7 | 18×120×900 |
| 8 | 18×120×1000 |
| 9 | 18×120×1100 |
| 10 | 18×120×1200 |
| 11 | 18×120×1300 |
| 12 | 18×120×1400 |
3. Facing board.
| № | Size (H×W×D), mm |
| 1 | 18×200×2000 |
| 2 | 18×300×2000 |
| 3 | 18×350×1000 |
| 4 | 18×350×1500 |
| 5 | 18×350×2000 |
| 6 | 18×350×2500 |
| 7 | 18×350×3000 |
| 8 | 18×350×3500 |
4. Beam.
| № | Size (H×W×D), mm |
| 1 | 80×80×1200 |
| 2 | 80×80×2000 |
| 3 | 80×80×2500 |
| 4 | 80×80×3000 |
| 5 | 100×100×1200 |
| 6 | 100×100×2000 |
| 7 | 100×100×2500 |
| 8 | 100×100×3000 |
5. Bowstrings.
| № | Size (H×W×D), mm |
| 1 | 40×350×2500 |
| 2 | 40×350×3000 |
| 3 | 40×350×3500 |
| 4 | 40×400×4000 |
| 5 | 50×300×3500 |
| 6 | 50×350×3500 |
| 7 | 50×400×4500 |
6. Handrails.
The length of the handrails can vary from 3500 before 6000 mm. And here are the dimensions sections constant:
| № | Section (W×H), mm |
| 1 | 40×70 |
| 2 | 45×70 |
| 3 | 45×80 |
| 4 | 45×90 |
| 5 | 60×60 |
| 6 | 70×70 |
| 7 | 70×90 |
| 8 | 80×100 |
7. Balusters.
Diameter round balusters - 30 or 47 mm. Length all varieties up to 900 mm. Sections square items:
| № | Section (W×H), mm |
| 1 | 40×40 |
| 2 | 45×45 |
| 3 | 50×50 |
| 4 | 60×60 |
| 6 | 70×70 |
| 7 | 80×80 |
| № | Diameter, mm |
| 1 | 75 |
| 2 | 95 |
| 3 | 115 |
| 4 | 140 |
| 5 | 145 |
More at the stage of calculations you should familiarize yourself with the price list of the nearest supplier within walking distance.
So, it is not the gods who burn the pots. We hope we succeeded dispel the myth that the design and construction of stairs is available only to the elite. Read articles, literature, which we referred to in this text, take measurements, sketches and drawings.
A task in dry matter looks simple: based on the layout of the house, the location of the stairs, the aesthetic preferences of the owners, you need perform parameter calculations given in the article. It remains only to organically fit the indicators into the norms of comfortable and safe movement in a country house or a multi-level apartment.
We wish you comfort and goodness in your home.
Recently, the construction of a country house is very often not limited to one floor. In order to expand the space, a second one is being built or an attic room is being insulated and brought into a condition suitable for comfortable living. And this means that one cannot do without a staircase in the interior of the first floor.
Do-it-yourself stairs to the second floor can be assembled from a ready-made kit, which can be purchased from companies specialized in the development and manufacture of this interior functional element. In the proposed catalogs, you can choose a staircase that fits perfectly into the environment of both floors, and will be convenient and safe for all family members to climb and descend.
You can try and build a staircase yourself, but in this case it is necessary to produce it, since if the design is not well thought out, a familiar element of the house for everyone may well become a traumatic “simulator”.
In addition, you need to decide what role the staircase will play in the interior. It can be completely invisible, and not be a decorative decoration of the room, but it can become the center of the composition, around which the entire design of the room will be built.
Therefore, in order to choose a suitable instance, it is better though would schematically draw the stairs you want would see in your home, or you can find a ready-made version and adapt it for a particular room.
Before choosing a staircase model, you must definitely find out how it works and how to calculate its correct parameters.
The main components of the stairs
The design of the stairs has many components, some of them are mandatory, while others may not be included in the devices of some types of this structure.
So, a staircase cannot do without steps and supports that support them - these are the main elements of the simplest designs of interfloor stairs.
- The step itself consists of two parts - vertical and horizontal. The first of them is called riser, and the second - tread. The riser is a support for tread, but sometimes they do without it.
- Supports can be of two types:
- a bowstring is a beam that supports the steps from their ends;
- kosour - a beam supporting the steps from below.
- The railing is also an important element of the stairs, although it is not present on all of its types. But if there are children or elderly people in the house, then you can’t do without them.
- Balusters are vertically installed railing supports, which most often become not only a functional part of the stairs, but also its decorative decoration. This element can be made of different materials and have different shapes.
Since there are different types of stairs, each of them can have details that are necessary for a particular design.
- Rack - this element is used for the device of a spiral staircase. Steps of a special shape are fixed to the rack with a certain step, which form a spiral rising from the first to the second floor.
- Bolts are special bolts, which are also elements supporting the steps, they are mounted in the wall and directly on the steps themselves. They are not used for everyone, but only for certain types of stairs.
Types of stairs
Having learned what elements the stairs consist of, you need to understand in more detail how each of the types of these structures looks like, established between floors.
marching stairs
This type of staircase is popular for any type of private home. It consists of one or more straight marches, equipped with evenly spaced steps. It is convenient to go down and up on it, but the disadvantage of this model is that it requires a lot of space in the room.
The most common - mid-flight stairs If the staircase consists of several flights, then each of them must have at least 3 ÷ 4 and no more than 15 steps. Failure to comply with this standard may result in uncomfortable stair climbing. Usually the number of steps in each march is 8 ÷ 11 pieces, and special platforms are installed between the marches. Their sizes are multiples of the average stride length.
- Marching stairs can be closed and open. The first of them have risers in the design of the steps, and the second ones are arranged without them. The open version is convenient in cases where the steps are not wide enough.
- Mid-flight stairs may have steps attached to stringers or bowstrings. For these parts, boards are selected that have a thickness of at least 45 ÷ 50, and better - even 60 ÷ 70 mm.
- If a straight staircase without turns has more than 8-9 steps, then for strength it is also recommended to divide it with a platform.
- In the case when the staircase is built with a slight turn, it is called a turning one, and sometimes steps are arranged on this site instead of a platform, which are called winders.
Winder steps quarter turn stairs - In addition to the above types, mid-flight stairs can be:
— quarter-turn- the angle of which when turning is 90 degrees, and they are arranged mainly at the junction of two walls;
- half-turn - their rotation has an angle of 180 degrees;
- circular models - marches consistently form a 360-degree turn.
The design of the stairs on the bolts
The name of these ladders on the bolts comes from the German word "volzen", which means a bolt. Thus, it is a bolted ladder. In fact, it is a fastener in the form of a pin having threads at its ends. With the help of their steps and fences are fastened together and mounted in the wall. Thanks to these devices, the design looks light and airy. Contributes to this and the absence of risers.
In addition, such a model can be stretched on a certain section of the wall, or it can look quite compact. Despite the seeming lightness, the design is reliable and durable, it is able to withstand hundreds of kilograms, so the ladders on the rails are becoming more and more popular.
Despite the “airy” look, the ladder on the rails is very reliable. Naturally, such a structure cannot be located in the middle of the room, since it must be attached to the wall, the main condition for installation is its strength of the material from which it is built.
It is rather difficult to calculate the ladder on the rails on your own, but you can purchase it as a kit or place an order for professionals to manufacture it with reference to specific home conditions.
Video: installation of a wooden staircase on the rails
The installation of this design is quite complicated, and it is better to entrust it to qualified craftsmen who will be able to evaluate the possibility of its installation. Therefore, before purchasing a kit, it is best to first consult with experts.
Spiral interfloor staircase
This design is more difficult to install, but has the advantage of being the smallest of all available options, making it ideal for small spaces. In addition, such a staircase can be installed in any convenient place in the room and, if desired, make it the center of the interior composition, since the design has a fairly aesthetic appearance.
Spiral staircase - saves space, but not always convenient for carrying bulky items There can be different types, but for a two-story house, a model consisting of their racks and wedge-shaped steps is best suited. For the rack, choose a metal pipe or a wooden support.
- The rack itself is fixed to the floor of the first floor and in the interfloor or attic floor.
- Steps are fixed on it with a narrow side and rotated so that the overall design resembles a spiral.
- Balusters are installed on the wide side of the steps, the upper part of which is fixed in the handrail, repeating the spiral direction of the entire structure.
Video: installation of a spiral staircase
Inconvenient in such a model is the fact that it will be difficult to lift or lower down some massive piece of furniture. In addition, when choosing such a model for installation, you need to know that the smaller the opening in the interfloor for it, the steeper and more inconvenient the staircase will be.
It is not difficult to calculate the screw structure. To do this, the area in the room where it will be installed is determined, its center is calculated - this will be the installation site of the rack. Further, the distance from the rack to the border is measured - this will be the span width, i.e. step length.
For comfortable walking on such a ladder, the size of the middle of the step should be at least 200 mm, and the widest part should be no more than 400 ÷ 420 mm.
It is quite possible to make and assemble such a structure on your own, if you have skills in working with wood, and the ability to calculate the load on the selected material. However, if you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust the work to a specialist, since an improperly arranged structure is very traumatic.
Requirements for the design of stairs
Before starting work, you need to find out the requirements for the design of the stairs.
Safety is perhaps the most important condition. In order for it to be fully implemented, it is very important to accurately calculate all the parameters:
- the slope angle, the width and height of the steps, the method of fastening the first and last of them are calculated;
- if the staircase is not located between two walls, the fence must be installed, and its height must be at least 800 ÷ 850 mm;
- if there are small children in the house, the balusters supporting the handrail of the fence should not be located further from each other than 100 ÷ 120 mm;
- the width of the steps should be 200 ÷ 300 mm;
- the staircase must withstand sufficiently large loads - for residential buildings they are 300 ÷ 350 kg / m²;
- it is impossible for the steps to be slippery - the texture of their outer coating is necessarily thought out;
- the entire structure must be securely and rigidly fixed between floors;
- it is undesirable to install the structure at an elevation angle of more than 45 degrees;
- the width of the spans cannot be made less than 850 mm, the best option is 1000 ÷ 1200 mm;
- the ladder will be less traumatic if it is divided into two or three parts by platforms;
- fasteners for structural elements must be made of high-quality material, so they cannot be saved on;
- if wooden parts are processed independently, then you need to bring them to perfect evenness and compliance with the dimensions established by the drawing or patterns.
Video: errors in the design and construction of stairs
Calculation of the parameters of the stairs and the manufacture of parts
Since for self-production and installation, a marching structure with steps laid on a stringer is the most affordable, as well as convenient and safe to use, it is worth considering it.
The first thing to do is to calculate the location, number and size of steps, as well as the width of the flight of stairs.
Calculation of the parameters of the stairs
Calculation of the design of the mid-flight stairs is as follows:
- The height of the room and the length of the entire or part of the wall are taken as a basis - the place that is reserved for the installation of the stairs. Having reduced these values on a scale, a right-angled triangle is drawn, in which the staircase itself will be the hypotenuse, and the legs will be the height of the rise and the floor.
An angle of 45 degrees is considered ideal for installing stairs, but it can be changed, depending on the desire of the owner of the house and on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
- The comfortable width of the step should be at least 200 mm, so the leg of the floor, based on its natural length, is divided by this value. The resulting number of steps is marked on the drawing.
- The height of the risers, convenient for movement, should not exceed 100 ÷ 120 mm. To calculate them, you need to divide the height of the total rise by the selected height of the risers and also transfer it to the drawing.
- Thus, it is possible to calculate the dimensions of the stringer for laying steps.
- The width of the stairs will depend on the preferences of the tenants and the size of the room.
Video: an example of the calculation of a marching interfloor staircase
Manufacture of staircase parts
In order to properly manufacture parts, you need to accurately transfer the dimensions from the drawing made to the material, and select high-quality, well-dried wood.
- The most difficult thing is to cut the stringers perfectly evenly, since the reliability and strength, as well as the aesthetics of the design, will depend on this. For these load-bearing elements, a board is selected whole without cracks and numerous large knots, with a thickness of at least 45 ÷ 50 mm.
- The tread sheets can have a width of 1.5-2 cm more than the space provided for them on the stringers, plus the thickness of the risers. Steps should be perfectly even with rounded neat edges, and this is also very important to consider. For them, a board with a thickness of 30 ÷ 35 mm is selected.
- If it was planned to make the staircase closed, with risers, then they must also be done carefully. For these elements, it is not necessary to take a board of great thickness, since basically the entire load will fall on the stringers, and the risers will play a supporting role. A thickness of 15 ÷ 20 mm is sufficient.
- Balusters and handrails would be better to purchase ready-made, along with fasteners. If there are children in the house, then, for safety reasons, two balusters should be installed on each step. In the case when the children have already grown up, then one element supporting the handrail is enough.
Prices for various types of staircase elements
Stair elements
Ladder installation
The installation of the stairs is the most crucial moment after the manufacture of all structural elements, and it must be approached with maximum responsibility.
- The stringers are installed first according to pre-set marks. On the floor, they are fixed to a support beam fixed in the right place, and in the upper part they are installed in cut gaps in the floor beam. Sometimes, to fix the upper part of the stringers, metal supports are used, mounted on a beam covering the ceiling. Anchor bolts act as fasteners for these load-bearing elements.
In order for the parts to be installed perfectly evenly, they are constantly calibrated during the installation process according to the plumb line and building level.
- If risers are provided, then they are screwed before laying the canvas of the steps.
- Then, on top of the stringers and risers, the tread panels are fixed with self-tapping screws.
The fastening of the risers and steps takes place in the complex, and goes upwards.
- Then, when the steps are ready, you can proceed to the installation of balusters.
On both sides, that is, on the floor of the first floor and at the top of the stairs, support posts are installed, which will become the boundary for the overall design of the handrail (railing). They will also play both a supporting and decorative role.
Balusters can be of different sizes, and made of different materials, so they can be attached in different ways. Some of them are simply installed in drilled holes in the steps and handrails, others are screwed on with self-tapping screws, and the attachment points are closed with decorative plugs.
- , they are covered from above with handrails, which are fixed on the supporting extreme posts. If necessary, another support post can be installed in the middle of the ladder.
- If three or even four racks are installed, then instead of balusters, two or three even boards (slats) fixed parallel to the course of the stairs can serve as a reliable fence.
- When the entire structure is assembled, you can proceed to surface treatment with a grinder and sandpaper. Preparation is carried out before applying protective and decorative paint coatings.
- The first layer that is applied to the tree is antiseptic compounds. They will protect the wood from rotting, mold or fungus, from domestic insects. After this, the structures are allowed to dry completely.
- Further, the staircase can be varnished in several layers (preferably water-based) with hot wax or paint.
- If you need to darken the wood, it is pre-coated with stain or other tinting compounds, and then, after drying, a varnish coating is applied on top of them.
After the paintwork has dried, the staircase will be ready for use.
Photo instruction for creating a ladder made of wood
Step 1 - drawing of the future design 
Video: another interesting option for mounting stairs to the second floor
If you need to install in the house, you need to carefully calculate each step of your work and approach it with all responsibility and accuracy.
