Step-by-step finishing of the bath inside. Bath do-it-yourself interior decoration. Preparation for finishing work

Interior decoration is the most important stage in the arrangement of any bath, and the Finnish sauna is no exception. You can handle the finishing work with your own hands. It is only necessary to understand the basics of the forthcoming work and gradually carry out all the activities in accordance with the most important recommendations.

First of all, you must choose materials that are optimally suited for the interior of the Finnish sauna. In the steam room, the air temperature will rise to high values. The materials must be such that visitors to the sauna could not get burned.

Finishing can be done using materials that heat up to a maximum of 50-60 degrees. Only wood and ceramic tiles meet this requirement. The walls near the stove and the stove unit itself are lined with various natural materials.

The use of paints and varnishes for finishing the Finnish sauna is strictly prohibited.

Wood is subject to mandatory treatment with special water-repellent compounds that can prevent excessive moisture and rotting of the material. Such hydrophobic compounds do not change the color and texture of wood and are completely safe for human health.

Features of different types of wood

On the modern market there is a huge selection of a wide variety of wood materials suitable for interior decoration of the bath. Be sure to study the features and basic properties of the available options.

Abashi

This is African oak. Among the main advantages of this type of wood, the following points should be highlighted:

• high strength;
• durability;
• relatively low weight;
• absence of knots and resinous secretions.

Oak finish does not burn the skin. the only significant disadvantage material is its high price.

Cedar

Altai, Ussuri and, of course, Canadian breeds are suitable. Advantages:

• resistance to excessive humidity, high temperatures and temperature extremes;
• resistance to fungi, insects, rot;
• excellent aesthetic qualities;
• good fragrance.

In alternative medicine, cedar occupies an honorable place and is considered a healing material that has a calming effect on the body and destroys pathogenic bacteria.

Linden

One of the most widely used finishing materials. Main advantages:

• high strength and sufficient hardness with a relatively small weight;
• normal tolerance of high temperature and excessive humidity;
• pleasant aroma;
• beautiful colour;
• medicinal properties.

Alder

Excellent material with healing properties and a pleasant non-burning surface. Alder does not emit resin, which is a very important advantage in high temperature conditions.

During heating, the material slightly changes shade, and when cooled, the color returns to its previous state. This gives additional aesthetic pleasure in the process of bath procedures.

Larch

Tree of the pine family. It has high strength and pleasant to the touch surface. When heated, it gives a pleasant aroma and releases many useful substances. Larch is characterized by a long service life even in conditions of high temperature and humidity.

Pine

If you want to use pine or spruce wood for finishing the Finnish sauna, pay attention only to wood from the northern regions. Spruces and pines from Finland stand out favorably against the general background.

Wood has a high density and does not lose its original properties for a very long time. Pine normally tolerates contact with moisture, does not rot and is not affected by fungi, provided it is properly handled. High-quality pine fills the steam room with a pleasant smell.

Aspen

Budget finishing material. The wood contains no resins. Aspen is easy to process. The new material has a nice white color. However, after a while, the aspen begins to darken. Also, the disadvantages of the material include a tendency to various wood diseases.

Birch

It has a strong and uniform structure. Under the influence of high temperatures may be somewhat deformed. To prevent this from happening, you need to buy already high-quality dried material. It has a pleasant color and healing properties.

The sequence of finishing work

Interior finishing work in the Finnish sauna begins with the arrangement of the floor. Then the ceiling is made out, and in the end - the walls.

If possible, the installation of wooden floors in the sauna should be abandoned. Of course, with a plank floor, the interior of the steam room will look more organic and whole, however, it is very difficult to dry such floors. Usually, the owners do not pay due attention to drying, as a result of which the steam room quickly begins to smell unpleasantly of rotten wood.

That is why it is best to use ceramic tiles for flooring in a steam room.

First step. Align the base under the tile. To do this, fill in the usual concrete screed. At the same stage, equip the foundation for the future stove. Select the dimensions of the base in accordance with the dimensions of your furnace unit. Make the height such that the foundation rises above the floor by about 10 cm.

Pour the screed so that the finished base for the tile is tilted by about 1% towards the location of the pit for collecting water.

Second step. Make a pit near the location of the furnace. Lay a drain pipe from the pit to the street with a diameter of 5 cm or more.

Third step. Lay the tiles on the dry base. It is best to use clinker tiles - it does not slip even when wet.

Start facing from the corner furthest from the entrance to the steam room. To fix the tiles, use a special heat-resistant adhesive. Apply the adhesive to the substrate using a comb trowel. The optimal thickness of the adhesive layer is 1.5-2 mm.

The joints between the tiles must be the same. To comply with this requirement, use special plastic crosses. Make seams up to 4 mm wide. Remove excess adhesive from the seams immediately.

Fourth step. After the glue dries (usually it takes 1-3 days), start grouting the joints. A rubber spatula and a special grout will help you with this. Choose the color of the grout at your discretion. After grouting, wipe the floor with a damp sponge.

Fifth step. Lay wooden grates on the floor.

The ceiling of the Finnish sauna is subjected to the most intense heat exposure. The best option for such premises is a hemmed ceiling structure.

First step. Assemble the frame of the structure from boards measuring 15x5 cm.

Second step. Attach plastic wrap to the frame boards. A construction stapler with staples will help you with this.

Third step. Lay the selected insulation in the cells of the frame. Usually mineral wool is used.

Fourth step. On top of the insulation, attach a vapor barrier membrane material to the frame boards.

Fifth step. Attach perpendicular slats about 3 cm thick to the frame boards. These slats must be fastened in increments of about 6 cm.

Sixth step. Attach lining boards to the rails. For fixing, use clamps or other convenient fasteners.

If a stove will be used in the bath that requires the installation of a chimney, install a special flange or a pass-through assembly into the ceiling. These elements are sold in specialized stores for oven equipment and accessories for steam rooms.

wall cladding

Before you start decorating the walls, provide conditions for sufficient ventilation of the steam room. To do this, create through holes in the walls for air inflow and exhaust.

Equip the supply channel at a height of up to 50 cm from the floor, preferably not far from the stove. Place the hood on the opposite side to the supply channel at a distance of about 50 cm from the ceiling. Install ventilation grilles, preferably wooden, on the holes. After that, you can proceed directly to the decoration of the walls.

First step. Attach the vertical support posts to the base. To fix these elements, use screws or nails. First, fasten the corner posts, pull the rope between the extreme supports and, guided by it, set all the internal beams in increments corresponding to the width of the selected insulation.

Second step. Lay the waterproofing film on the wall and attach it to the posts with a stapler.

Third step. Lay insulation on top of the film in the cells of the frame.

Fourth step. Cover the insulation with vapor barrier material. Attach the vapor barrier to the posts using a stapler.

Fifth step. Nail on top of the racks perpendicular rails.

Sixth step. Attach the lining to the rails. Place sheets vertically. To fix the skin, use clamps or other convenient fasteners.

If you decide to fasten the lining in a horizontal position, do the work in the same order, but do not fill the perpendicular rails, but fasten the sheets directly to the racks. In such a situation, it will be necessary to use racks that would protrude 2-3 cm above the thermal insulation. Start the sheathing from the bottom.

Line the walls near the stove with non-combustible materials. The best option is natural minerals such as soapstone, jadeite, etc. These same minerals are perfect for finishing the stove.

Finishing work

Install the door. Linden canvases are usually used. The size of the door to the steam room should be at least 190x70 cm. A tempered glass door is also perfect.

If your sauna is designed with windows, opt for double systems for better thermal insulation. If possible, windows should be placed at a small distance from the floor.

To illuminate the sauna, use luminaires that are resistant to high temperatures and excessive humidity. The best option is fiber optic lighting.

In conclusion, you will have to lay out or install a ready-made stove unit and very soon you will be able to enjoy the warmth of a Finnish sauna finished with your own hands.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself bath interior decoration

Video - Exclusive steam room, top-level bath finishing

In a real Russian bath, there must be a steam room where you can improve your health and physically relax. Therefore, this room should have a beautiful view. When operating a steam room, it always has peak temperatures and high humidity. So that it can be used for many years, you should carefully consider the interior decoration, which will protect the walls from aggressive influences, and the person from allergies and burns.

The choice of finishing material for the steam room

Our ancestors built baths with their own hands. In those days, tow, hemp, felt and other natural materials were used for their insulation. But today technology has gone far ahead, and hardware stores offer a large selection of modern heat and vapor barrier materials:

1. Basalt wool is especially popular when finishing a steam room and many other rooms. It withstands high temperatures, does not burn or rot. At the same time, basalt wool does not emit toxic substances, which is very important for a room that is intended for healing the body. It is indispensable as a heat-insulating material when finishing sections of the ceiling and walls, which are located next to the chimney and stove.
2. You can choose mineral wool. It is made from rock waste. It is durable, environmentally friendly and resistant to microorganisms. Available in slabs or rolls.
3. Foil film is an effective vapor barrier material.

What wood to choose?

Russian baths with their own hands traditionally finished with wood, which easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a unique aroma and many other positive qualities.

Hardwood lining is suitable for finishing the steam room. It has a low heat capacity, due to which the room warms up quickly, while the walls do not heat up much. Therefore, there will be no discomfort when in contact with the walls of the lining in the steam room.

You can choose the lining of their linden, birch, aspen or larch. Each of these trees has its own characteristics:

Incredibly rich and expensive will get a steam room, finished wood from the African abacha tree. This is a dense wood that has low thermal conductivity, an even structure and a rich color palette. The steam room can turn yellowish-straw to light brown with dark patches.

Step-by-step finishing of the steam room in the bath

Do-it-yourself installation work must be started after all the necessary communications have been laid and the electrician has been carried out.

For finishing you will need the following tools:

Floor installation

First of all, the floor is made in the entire bath. Its level in the washroom should be below the floor level in the steam room. The floor can be made of wood or concrete. But most often they stop at the first option.

For wooden floor installation with your own hands you will need:

1. Install support joists on the foundation.
2. Screw planed boards to them in increments of 5–10 mm, the thickness of which should be 50 mm.

There must be at least 50 cm between the ground level and the floor. Openings must be provided in the foundation for fresh air to enter.

Installation of the crate and insulation

The surface of the walls and ceiling is pre-treated with antifungal antiseptics. It is also necessary to seal even the smallest cracks. The differences in the walls, which are detected by the building level, are leveled with wooden spacers. Otherwise, the mounting rails may be at different heights.

Do-it-yourself installation of crates and insulation consists of the following steps:

1. Insulation against moisture must be protected on both sides. Therefore, the membrane is attached to the leveled surfaces with the help of a stapler.
2. To install the crate, bars 50x25 mm and 60x27 mm are used. They must be well dried and free of defects, cracks and knots. The optimal distance between the bars is 0.6 m.
3. Before installing the bars, guides are mounted according to the level. Then the extreme bars are installed. Their position must be checked by level and plumb.
4. There must be a gap between the rack and the floor plane, which will protect the tree from deformation during its “movement”. Therefore, the bars are fixed using special corners.
5. Grooves are cut in the bars-racks. They will be installed bars of a smaller section. This method of fastening will help to avoid deformation.
6. The entire crate fitted to the level is fixed. If necessary, spacers can be used.
7. Insulation is placed in the finished frame with your own hands. It is desirable to fix the cotton wool with polypropylene twine, otherwise it may deform or slip over time.
8. The second layer of vapor barrier is attached to the insulation with a rough side using a stapler.

If the walls in the steam room curved or semicircular, then to maintain a given shape, the timber should be used in parts.

Wood treatment with antiseptic

Before using the lining for finishing the bath, it should be adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. The wood should lie indoors for several days. After that, it is recommended to treat it with special antiseptics, a wide variety of which are offered by hardware stores.

To process the lining with antiseptics with your own hands, you will need:

In order for the composition to lie tenaciously on the tree, the wood is preliminarily sanded with sandpaper. It is necessary to impregnate the lining and timber from all sides. If linseed oil is used for processing, then it is preheated in a steam bath. The oil temperature should be 40-45 degrees.

The antiseptic is applied in two or three layers, each of which must dry for at least 12 hours. For complete drying of all layers at a temperature of 20 degrees, it will take at least two days.

Installation of lining

You can arrange the lining as you like. It all depends on the individual design intent. It is best to place the boards in the bath horizontally. With vertical finishing lining will heat up unevenly, because the bottom of the room is the lowest temperature, and the faith is the highest. As a result, over time, the boards will “lead”.

Sheathing starts from the ceiling, on which the pre-cut lining is installed using the "groove-thorn" system. It is attached to the crate with the help of kleimers (special metal holders). Then staples or nails are hammered into them. Metal elements will be invisible, since the kleimer will be blocked by the spike of the next board.

When finishing the ceiling, do not forget to cut a rectangular opening for the chimney. In the attic, a layer of insulation is necessarily laid, on top of which a wind and vapor barrier membrane and floor boards are attached.

Do-it-yourself wall decoration goes in parallel with the installation of shelves and consists of the following steps:

When installing lining should not forget about openings for switches, removing the electrical cable, ventilation doors and lighting fixtures, which are installed at the final stage of finishing the bath.

After completion of all finishing work, the selected furnace is installed in the steam room on the prepared base. From above, it is equipped with a pipe and a gate, and a water tank is attached to it on the side. The chimney is discharged through the ceiling and insulated with non-combustible material.

With high-quality materials, the necessary tools and instructions for the process of finishing the steam room, work can be quite easily do it yourself. Within a day after the completion of all work, the bath can be flooded and enjoy the steam in a steam room finished by yourself.

Do-it-yourself decoration of a steam room in a bath: selection and preparation of material, phased finishing of a steam room with a photo

The choice of finishing material for the steam room. Step-by-step finishing of the steam room in the bath: installation of a wooden floor, battens and insulation on walls and ceilings. Treatment of wood with an antiseptic. Installation of lining.

Finishing the ceiling, walls, floor of the steam room in the bath with your own hands

The best option can be called a steam room in the bath, finished with your own hands. Simply put, it is the owner of the building who is obliged to plan the entire steam room for convenience and safety. He needs to think over many subtleties in advance for a pleasant and healthy holiday.

Finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands, at first glance, is not difficult. But in fact, this is a complex process that must be performed not only correctly and beautifully, but also with high quality. You will learn how to do this in this article. I will talk about the materials that are more suitable for such a case, as well as their pros and cons.

The sequence of finishing the steam room

Let's start with the main thing, with the size of the steam room in the bath, and how to choose it correctly. A few tips on how not to miscalculate the parameters of the steam room during its construction.

A stove lined with brick, or completely made of brick, heats up longer, but it also keeps heat much longer than from iron. Burns from such a furnace can be obtained not as serious as, for example, from red-hot iron. The next step in finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands will be no less important.

The choice of material for finishing

It is best to finish with wood, because it smells very nice, but there are some species that are not suitable.

You can finish the lining made of hardwood. Lining made of such types of wood is great for lining a steam room in a bath, it can withstand high temperatures, and due to the low heat capacity of the lining, the room warms up faster, and the walls will not heat up much.

Advantages and disadvantages of each of the materials

Linden , the owner of a snow-white color, does not deform when temperatures change, and is moisture resistant. Such clapboard can be sheathed not far from the stove, as well as the ceiling, since it heats up longer than other breeds. When heated, it emits a subtle, not intrusive aroma. And so that it does not darken in the future, it is treated with a special substance.

Minuses that it is subject to rotting and possibly insects will start in it. So when choosing it, keep in mind that you will have to change such material often.

Larch , perfectly tolerates both temperature extremes and humidity. This type of wood is considered durable. Good for steam rooms.

Minus in that it is difficult to cut along it, since the structure is very dense. Therefore, it is necessary to work with it carefully and only with high-quality tools.

Birch , due to its loose structure, dries out a lot. This is noticeable when harvesting it, so it’s worth preparing with a margin. But this drying contributes to the excellent absorption of a special protective substance during processing.

Minus in that it begins to decompose when wet and even a protective agent will not save it. In addition, she has a lot of knots.

Aspen , a very strong breed, has high strength, is resistant to moisture and it does not have cracks, these qualities are an indicator of wood on the good side. Aspen is the most suitable for cladding a steam room.

Minuses in that it nevertheless undergoes decay, of course, much less than linden. And when choosing such a lining, you should pay attention to resin pebbles and knots, because in a hot steam room, when the resin comes into contact with the skin, you can get burned.

Cedar , when heated, it releases a pleasant and healthy aroma of essential oils. It is easy to handle and cut. Cedar is durable and is not afraid of moisture.

Minus The fact is that not everyone can afford such a lining.

Thermal insulation of the steam room

Everyone knows that before sheathing the steam room, the room must be insulated and a vapor barrier installed.

The choice of material for finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands is great. To date, there are several types specifically for the steam room. Such materials that tolerate temperature changes well, and do not emit harmful substances when heated, do not rot and do not contribute to the appearance of fungus. They are also flame retardant and will last for many years.

Basalt and mineral wool are the most popular sheathing materials. A foil film is great for vapor barrier. Foiled material is sheathed with walls and ceilings and used for their waterproofing. It looks like a roll of basalt wool only with a layer of foil.

Ceiling insulation

We fasten the foil material to the ceiling with a stapler, with the reflective side inside the room. The joints are overlapped and glued with aluminum tape.

We fasten the crate for the future ceiling (for sheathing to hide the foil layer), we fasten it with screws across the beams.

Also, do not forget in the attic, before filling the ceiling with insulation (earth, expanded clay), put a film on it so that dust does not get inside the room, or cover all the cracks between the boards.

Wall insulation

The wall cladding technology in the steam room is the same as that of the ceiling. Just before insulating the walls in the bath, it is necessary to smooth out all the cracks and joints. The insulation is attached parallel to the floor, from top to bottom. Laying is done in three layers: hydro-, heat-, and vapor barrier.

The first layer of waterproofing is needed so that the condensate does not settle on the walls. The second layer for insulation, it is laid in a crate of timber. The third layer is needed to protect the insulation from moisture.

Floor insulation

A floor made of concrete is of course more durable than wood, but such floors are cold, so people still give their preference to wood.

For wooden floor, the foundation is poured, beams are laid, logs are laid on them. The voids formed between the lags and beams are filled with insulating material, most often it is expanded clay or sand. Next, a vapor barrier is laid, and the “first floor”, and insulation material and waterproofing are laid on it, and only then do we make the finishing floor.

For concrete floor the base is made of concrete and crushed stone, 12-15 cm thick. Waterproofing can be laid after the concrete mixture has completely dried. It can be roofing material or bituminous mastics. The concrete is smeared several times with bituminous mastic, and only then we lay down the waterproofing. Insulation can be mineral wool, perlite or expanded clay with a layer of 10-15 cm. The next layer of the floor is already done on a heat-insulating surface.

Wood treatment with antiseptics

In order for the wood paneling to last for a long time, and not become covered with a fungus. It must be treated with an antiseptic, since the tree absorbs moisture well, and the loose environment is favorable for microbes, they will soon populate the entire wooden territory and destroy it, and later pest beetles will populate it and completely destroy it. To avoid such a problem, it is necessary to carry out a hygienic procedure for the tree before using it.

Impregnation should have protective properties, but not prevent the tree from “breathing”. Wood impregnation treatment, indoors, should be environmentally friendly, and should not emit hazardous substances when heated. Floor impregnation should not form a slippery film on the surface after drying. Treat shelves, benches and countertops only with an impregnation that can withstand frequent wet cleaning. Shelves are treated with a special agent, with deep absorption, it should not form a film on the surface. Impregnations for wood are both aerosol and in the form of gels and solutions.

All antiseptic impregnations must be applied in a protective respirator to avoid poisoning.

Wood is also protected from fire, with a substance such as a fire retardant. Of course, this substance will only resist fire for a while, since it is impossible to fully ensure the wood's incombustibility.

Before applying the product, we clean the surface of contamination, if necessary, we grind the canvas. The composition is applied with a roller or brush, of course, if it is not an aerosol. We pay special attention to painting the ends. You can use the room only after the protective coating has completely dried.

The process of finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands

It is easiest to show the decoration of the steam room of the bath with your own hands in the photo, but I will try to explain intelligibly, but of course I will provide the necessary photos.

The best material for finishing is lining, it looks good in the interior. In addition, if you wish, you can make it yourself, well, there is a huge selection of it on the store shelves. Such material allows the wall to breathe, and is easy to install. It can be fastened with kleimers or nails without hats.

Finishing the steam room in the bath with our own hands we will break it down step by step, the first thing we will analyze is the ceiling, then the walls and the floor.

Ceiling finish

The decoration of the room is done in one style, if the ceiling is lined with clapboard, then it is better to finish the walls as well. If you want natural wood, then you should take care of its quality, it must be treated with special means. These funds will provide many years of service to her, keep her appearance much longer. They are also carried out so that the wood does not ignite for some time.

The choice of lining is very large, so you will find for yourself the type of wood from which the lining will be made. Also choose for yourself in terms of money.

The ceilings are also finished with cork, which is an environmentally friendly material. It does not emit hazardous substances when heated, just like lining. It is very easy to mount, it is not difficult to work. But its disadvantage is the high price.

wall decoration

Also, they prefer to sheathe the walls with clapboard made of wood. In this case, it is better to fasten it with a gap in order to avoid deformation of the tree from swelling. This gap will save you the hassle of redoing the whole trim, it will allow it to move if needed.

Think over the design in advance, you will always have time to buy, look at different types of finishes, and choose the one that you like best.

Floor finish

The floor can be made both wooden and tiled. The tile is not afraid of moisture, but it’s not very pleasant to step on it after a steam room, moreover, you can slip, so most often it is laid on wooden flooring in the form of a crate or a coating that is easy to care for, such as cork.

If you want to lay tiles, then first perform a screed and level the surface. It is laid on a special glue, and the seams are treated with a moisture-resistant grout.

Wooden floors are leaky and non-penetrating. Leaking floors are when boards are laid on logs with a gap of 5-30 mm, and not leaking ones are laid close to each other and tongue-and-groove boards are chosen for them.

I provide a photo of finishing the steam room in the baths with my own hands.

Types of shelves and their installation

Bath shelves are divided into several types:

1. coupe- lying places are located one above the other;
2. Complex shelves- this is when retractable structures of the lower shelf, or folding upper shelves are used;
3. In the form of the letter "G"- this is when seating, benches are placed along two adjacent walls, thereby forming the letter "G".
4. Stepped shelves- in sufficiently large steam rooms, there are two, or even three rows of steps, on which several people can fit.

Examples of steam room schemes

Finishing touches in finishing

The last thing to do is to install wooden skirting boards and baguettes. Check if you did everything right.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step finishing of the steam room in the bath, StroiDom

Step-by-step instructions for finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands. Expert recommendations. The right choice of materials.

DIY steam room - step by step instructions

Without a steam room, a bathhouse becomes an ordinary room where people wash themselves. It is steam that has healing properties, rejuvenates the body, gives strength and good spirits. At first glance, the arrangement of the steam room is not particularly difficult. This small room has a minimum of architectural delights. However, during its arrangement it is necessary to observe a number of important rules. Only then will the steam room be able to bring real pleasure to lovers of a real Russian bath.

DIY steam room - step by step instructions

Project selection

It is necessary to design a steam room even before the construction of the bath begins. Its dimensions will depend on many indicators.

When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances.

The maximum number of people who will simultaneously bathe in the bath. It is from the answer to this question that the overall dimensions of the room depend. According to the norms, for each person in the steam room, there should be at least 0.7 m2.

The height of the tallest member of the family. This indicator is a guideline for calculating the height of the room. It should be about 20 cm more than its height. When calculating, one should take into account the fact that the ceiling will be additionally insulated and, therefore, its level will be several centimeters lower. Even a tall person, sitting on the top shelf, should not touch the ceiling with his head. But too much height of the steam room is not welcome. This can result in wasted energy and insufficient warm-up. All the hot air will go up, not having the proper effect on the steaming people. The optimal ceiling height is from 2.2 to 2.4 m.

Type of placement on the shelves: sitting or lying down. The sitting way of arrangement in the steam room allows you to make it compact. Shelves that require the adoption of procedures in the supine position require more space. In this case, the room should be 20 cm wider than the height of the tallest member of the family.

The first sketch below shows a small bathhouse with a steam room, in which only sitting people are placed on the shelves.

The other two drawings schematically show more spacious rooms in which you can bathe already lying down.

Accommodation options in the steam room.

1), 10), 11) Clothes hanger, wardrobe.

2) Recreation room.

Schematically depicting the location of the stove and shelves in the steam room, you can calculate its dimensions in advance and avoid annoying mistakes during construction.

Type, power and dimensions of the stove. According to fire safety standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 (Heating, ventilation and air conditioning)), the stove in the bath should be located at a distance of at least 32 cm from wooden structures. If the walls are protected by non-combustible materials, then 26 cm must be retreated from them.

The iron stove has high power, compact size and the ability to quickly heat even a large steam room. However, its surface is very hot, there is a risk of accidental burns in case of careless actions. In view of this. in the steam room, there should be a free distance between the shelves and the iron stove.

A brick heater does not heat up so quickly and its size is much larger than that of a metal one. However, it keeps heat longer and it is impossible to seriously burn yourself about it. Therefore, there is no need to locate the furnace at a considerable distance from the shelves.

In the case of installing an electric heater, it makes sense to make the steam room as small as possible. This will save energy when heating the room.

Electric heater in the steam room

So, when planning a steam room, you should carefully consider everything at the construction stage. After the walls, partitions and roof are erected, you can proceed directly to work on the internal arrangement of the steam room.

Floor installation

The floor in the entire bath is done first. The level of the floor in the steam room should be higher than the level of the clean floor in the washroom.

The scheme of laying the floor in the bath

There are several options for its device.

Wooden floor

The simplest is the installation of a wooden floor. To do this, support logs are installed on the foundation.

Planed boards 50 mm thick are screwed onto them at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other.

A variant of the flowing floor in the bath. Boards laid with a small gap

It is important that at least 50 cm remain between the floor and the ground level, and there are holes in the foundation for fresh air to enter.

This will provide good, natural ventilation in the steam room, and the boards will dry out evenly after the end of the bath procedures. However, this option for arranging the floor should only be used in areas with a warm and temperate climate. In northern areas, such ventilation can cause the heat from the steam room to dissipate too quickly.

Concrete floor

A concrete floor in a steam room can last much longer than wood. However, the cost of its arrangement will be slightly higher. In addition, it will be necessary to additionally lay a finishing coating on it.

Before starting work on the installation of a cement screed in the steam room and washing room, a pit 10 to 15 cm deep should be dug for water drainage. Its walls can be fixed with cement or tiles. An iron grate is laid on top of it. From the pit, water will go through the drain pipe into the sewer.

Scheme of a concrete floor with a pit

Once the water drain is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the screed.

Diagram of concrete floor layers

The level of the clean floor in the steam room should be higher than in the washing room. Therefore, before starting work on the walls, a mark is made to which the floor structure will reach. And then lay down the distance from it, which is necessary for laying all layers of the screed.

Floor construction in rooms

For marking it is convenient to use a laser level

The procedure for arranging a concrete floor

Crushed pillow. In this case, a reinforcing mesh has been added.

First layer of concrete. You can add a little liquid glass to the solution to improve the properties of the screed

All waterproofing seams are securely coated for sealing

Pouring screed on beacons

Rule. The arrows show the direction of movement (left-right and forward)

Vapor barrier and ceiling finish

High-quality insulation of the ceiling in the steam room is of paramount importance, since the hot air from the stove rises exactly up. Therefore, the presence of places on the ceiling through which it could freely go outside is unacceptable.

Ceiling insulation work is carried out in the following sequence.

Hole under the chimney

Hole for installation of ceiling cutting

Insulation in the attic

Laying floorboards from the attic

Wall insulation

If the walls in the bath are built from foam blocks or using frame technology, then the steam room requires additional insulation. Inside, you should get a thermos impervious to cold, which will perfectly retain the heat emanating from the stove. This will save fuel, which is used for heating and maintaining the desired temperature in the steam room for a long time.

Before starting work, an opening is cut in the wall for installing the furnace.

Then a wind and vapor barrier film is attached to the walls.

At the next stage, basalt non-combustible insulation is tightly laid between the bars.

Sheathing and installed insulation

After that, hydrovapor barrier is nailed to the bars with galvanized brackets.

Foil insulation and counter-lattice for lining

As a protective material can be used:

foil with a density of 150 to 200 microns;

foil foamed penoizol;

bath waterproofing membrane.

Strips of moisture-resistant material are nailed with staples with an overlap of at least 15 cm, the joints are sealed with a special adhesive tape.

Then, rails 25 mm thick and 30 to 50 mm wide are horizontally attached to the bars with galvanized self-tapping screws at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The crate should be installed as evenly as possible, for this you should use a laser level or plumb line. Start the installation with the two extreme rails, then pull the cord between them. And already focusing on it, they nail the rest of the crate.

At the next stage, the lining board is directly fastened. To do this, use either ordinary galvanized nails 40-50 mm long, or special kleimers.

Finally, even holes for ventilation are cut in the walls. From above they are masked with plugs or shutters. If necessary, a fan is mounted in the supply or exhaust opening.

If the walls in the steam room are made of logs or profiled timber, then they do not require such thorough insulation. In this case, it will be enough to fix foil or foil penoizol on them. Then nail the crate and install the lining.

Scheme of insulation and finishing of a bath from a bar

Furnace installation

The stove in the steam room can be installed iron, brick or electric. A place for it should be chosen at the design stage of the bath. The furnace firebox can be located both inside the steam room and outside it.

Installation procedure in a steam iron furnace:

install the oven on a pre-prepared base;

they cover it with bricks along the walls and inside the partition;

Installed ceiling cut

a pipe and a gate are installed on the stove, a tank is connected and a double-walled chimney is led through the ceiling, isolating it with non-combustible material;

Ceiling cutting is fully insulated

a metal sheet is fixed on the roof with a hole through which the pipe passes.

Chimney passage through the roof

Installing an electric heater

The electric oven is installed on a pre-prepared platform or hung on the wall using special brackets. It does not require the installation of a chimney.

Be sure to observe the distances specified in the instructions from the oven to the walls and shelves.

brick oven

A brick oven is laid out even at the construction stage of the bath.

Only that part of it, in which there will be stones, should go into the steam room. The firebox is best placed in the dressing room or on the street.

Door installation

The door in the steam room is installed last. It should close tightly and not let heat out. Doors made of solid wood or tempered glass are best suited for this purpose.

Installation of a wooden door consists of the following steps:

collect from a bar 100 * 150 (depending on the diameter of the log) a rectangular casing box ("pigtail");

a doorway is adjusted under the casing;

a spike is cut out at the ends of the beam in the opening, which should be slightly smaller in size than the groove on the casing (it should be borne in mind that jute or tow must be laid between the box and the beam);

Spike cutting scheme

put in the opening first the threshold, and then the side parts of the casing;

Installing a door frame in a log house

install the upper part of the box so that it is located 3-5 cm below the doorway (this will allow the beam to move freely during shrinkage);

Gap to compensate for shrinkage

the “casing” cannot be screwed to the beam, it must move freely along the grooves, the gaps between it and the wall are carefully caulked;

hang the door, nail the platbands with finishing nails.

Another way to install a wooden door is to cut grooves in the opening.

Wooden bars are installed in them so that their edge does not reach 5-10 cm to the top of the opening. And the door frame is already directly attached to them.

Fixing the pigtail to the rail and hanging the door

Glass doors are mounted on special hinges.

How to make shelves

The number of shelves in the steam room depends on its dimensions. Their height is selected depending on the growth of the owners of the bath. In the standard version, three-level shelves are allowed, each of which is 35 cm high. However, it is also possible to have two shelves. In a small steam room, the lower level of the bench can be equipped with a retractable mechanism and extend as needed.

First you need to choose the shape of the shelves and assemble the frame. It is best to make it from larch. There are many options for its location. It can be rectangular or angular.

Wooden shields are laid on top of the installed frame.

The boards in them should be located loosely, at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Shields should be made from linden or aspen. Coniferous woods are not suitable for this purpose, since resin is released from them under the influence of high temperatures.

Efficient ventilation

An important stage in the arrangement of the steam room is ventilation. In its absence, a long stay in the steam room becomes unsafe for human health. And improper installation of air ducts can lead to heat loss and unnecessary fuel costs for the full heating of the room.

Do not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room. This will lead to large heat losses, and hence a decrease in the effectiveness of taking bath procedures.

Do not make a hole for the ventilation duct directly on the ceiling of the steam room

The most common and are several options for the location of ventilation ducts in the steam room.

During the direct bath procedures, the ventilation holes in the walls can be closed with valves. And then open them as needed.

Ventilation grille with shutter

Galvanized or stainless steel pipes should be used as ventilation ducts. It is not recommended to use plastic structures in the steam room. Pipes must be fastened to special clamps.

It must be remembered that the diameter of the exhaust channel should be slightly larger than the supply one.

Having decided on the ventilation scheme, holes of the required sizes should be made in the walls or floor.

Their diameter depends on the area of ​​the ventilated room, but it cannot be less than 100 mm. Then you need to insert ventilation channels into them.

The ventilation duct is inserted into the hole

The remaining distance between the wall and the pipe must be laid with non-combustible insulation. From the side of the street, fix the protective grille.

The arrow shows the protective grille

Electricity

At the final stage of arranging the steam room, the installation of electrical wiring is performed. All switches and junction boxes must be located outside the steam room and shower room.

Junction box in the bath

The wires are laid in the corrugation over the lining.

Installation of wiring in the corrugation

In the steam room, they are covered with wooden skirting boards from above.

Wiring hidden behind skirting board

Fixtures in the steam room should be protected by wooden bars.

Do-it-yourself steam room - step-by-step instructions for arranging and decorating!

Here is an instruction for arranging and decorating a steam room in a bath. Do-it-yourself steam room - step-by-step instructions with a detailed description. Photo + video.

Finishing the steam room in 3 stages: we are equipping a branch of hell in our bathhouse!

Only natural wood can cope with the heat from the heater!

Finishing a steam room in a bath with your own hands is an extremely responsible event. And although the masters do not have a single recipe, and indeed cannot be, everyone agrees on one thing: it is very important to minimize heat loss, because this is the only way we will ensure an even and stable heat, to maintain which you do not have to constantly burn cubic meters of firewood or kilowatts of electricity.

In practice, achieving such a result is not easy, but if you follow the advice I gave you (I managed to check most of them in practice), then everything will work out!

Step 1. Thermal insulation

Wall preparation

The story of how to properly finish the steam room in the bath, I will start with a description of the process of thermal insulation. High-quality insulation and protection of heat-insulating material from moisture are our priorities!

At the first stage, we need to prepare the walls and ceiling. The preparation algorithm depends on the material from which the walls are made:

Before sheathing, the beam must be caulked

1. Wooden frame without fail caulked. To do this, we fill all the gaps between the bars / logs with moss, tow, jute fiber, etc. We carefully compact the material for caulking to avoid blowing and heat loss.
2. We treat wooden surfaces with an antiseptic. Its role is obvious: no matter how well we waterproof the room, high humidity will provoke the development of bacteria and fungi. So it is best to take action in advance.

Gas and foam concrete must be primed

1. We treat concrete or brick walls with a primer with waterproofing and antiseptic components. This will protect the base from moisture and will also help prevent the development of fungal infections.
2. In a bath of aerated concrete, foam concrete and other porous materials, it is also worth primed the walls. A primer based on polymeric materials penetrates into the pores of the material and reduces its moisture capacity, which is highly desirable in this situation.

Only after the pre-treatment of the walls is completed, it is possible to proceed with the installation of the heat-insulating circuit.

Frame and insulation

Warming the walls and ceiling in the bath is a process that each master does according to his own scheme. The sequence of finishing can be different, and the materials used are different, so here I will give a universal option:

1. I fill the bars of the crate on the walls and ceiling. The indentation from the wall to the edge of the timber should correspond to the thickness of the heat-insulating material used, therefore sometimes it is necessary to place cranial bars under the crate.

Lathing for thermal insulation material

1. When installing the crate, I provide for the laying of communications: I make holes in the beams with a drill, through which I pass a heat-resistant metal hose with wires to illuminate the steam room.
2. Be sure to equip the ventilation hole: around the perimeter of the vent I stuff a frame of timber, and leave the passage itself free.

Outside, it is worth installing a ventilation grill to protect against insects and rodents, which usually break into a warm room in “slender rows”.

1. After completing this stage, I lay plates of heat-insulating material in the cells of the crate. It is best to use mineral wool with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm, since polymeric materials (polystyrene, polystyrene) either melt or actively release volatile toxins when heated to 1200C.

Thermal insulation with mineral fiber boards

1. On top of the heat-insulating layer I lay a vapor barrier that protects the mineral wool from moisture. If earlier glassine was mainly used for this, today it is best to use polymer films with foil: the foil coating not only prevents the insulation from moistening, but also acts as a thermal mirror, reflecting infrared rays back into the steam room.

Vapor barrier materials must be overlapped, fastening the edges with heat-resistant tape.

Foil vapor barrier should cover the entire insulation

1. The next step is the installation of the counter-lattice. To do this, I fill slats 20–40 mm thick over the vapor barrier: they will form a gap for air circulation under the lining of the lining. The presence of such a gap contributes to the effective ventilation of the insulated wall and the normalization of humidity in the room.

In a brick bath or in a bath made of foam / aerated concrete, foam glass insulation can also be used. The high density of the material allows it to be mounted without a frame, directly on load-bearing walls:

Scheme of fixing foam glass panels

1. Foam glass blocks are glued to all surfaces using a heat-resistant compound.
2. For reliability, we fix each block with a dowel-"fungus".
3. On top of the blocks we stuff a counter-lattice for mounting the lining.

Floors and ceilings

The floors and ceilings in the steam room should also be given attention. So, I recommend finishing the floors with either a solid board or tiles on a wooden base. Naturally, one cannot do without warming here:

1. In the underground space on the ground I fall asleep a layer of sand and gravel mixture. The thickness of the backfill should be at least 10 - 15 cm after tamping.
2. On the hardened floor we pour expanded clay - so that the upper edge of the expanded clay layer coincides with the lower edge of the log.

Expanded clay under the subfloor

So that the granules of burnt clay do not crumble, you can fill the backfill with liquid cement mortar - you get an impromptu expanded clay concrete.

1. On top of expanded clay, we lay out mineral wool slabs with a thickness of 75 mm or more. We lay the mineral wool in such a way that it fits snugly into the space between the lags.
2. An alternative to mineral wool is ecowool, a fibrous cellulose material. It is blown under pressure into the underground space, so the warming procedure should be carried out after laying the subfloor.
3. A layer of vapor barrier is necessarily laid on top of the insulation. If this is not done, then high humidity will lead to a significant increase in the thermal conductivity of the material.

Vapor barrier insulation with a special membrane

1. Finally, we lay the draft floor on top. It can be made either from a board or from moisture-resistant plywood of sufficient thickness.

Now a few words about how to finish the ceiling. From the inside, everything is more or less clear: we do the same as for the walls, except that the thickness of the heat-insulating panels can be slightly reduced. The trick is that we will do thermal insulation from the side of the attic:

Ceiling over the steam room, filled with clay mortar

1. I cover the ceiling of the bath with two or three layers of fiberglass.
2. From above I pour 30 cm of clay solution, into which I add chopped straw or sawdust (1: 1 by volume).
3. When the clay dries, I lay thin sheets of polystyrene and pour a cement screed.

The resulting multilayer structure retains heat well. At the same time, you can move along the screed, so that the attic of the bath can be used to store different things.

Step 2. Sheathing

Choosing wood

Sheathing the ceiling and walls, and sometimes laying the floors, we will use exclusively natural wood. And here the choice of wood species comes to the fore.

Larch trim

On the other hand, linden requires careful treatment: if you do not take care of the sheathing and shelves, then literally in a year they will darken and will not please the eye with a pleasant light shade.

Photo of lime panels

It is possible to decide what exactly to use for sheathing the steam room only after a thorough analysis of the situation: this is influenced by the volume of the room, the planned temperature in it, and financial possibilities. So I usually give exactly one recommendation: for a steam room, choose the highest quality wood that you can afford!

We mount the lining

One of the advantages of lining as a material for lining baths and saunas is its fairly simple installation. The presence of the "thorn - groove" locking system gives us the opportunity to quickly assemble parts with minimal gaps - so when doing the work with our own hands, we will only have to make sure that the parts are mounted evenly.

Before starting work on finishing the steam room, it is worth considering: how will we install the lining - vertically or horizontally? Both options have both pros and cons:

Vertical mounting of panels has disadvantages

1. When mounted vertically, each board is subjected to fairly intense temperature deformations: the lower part is in the cold zone (conditionally), the upper part is in the hot zone. At the same time, the wood below will also remain wet for a long time, hence the high risk of fungus formation. On the other hand, with vertical installation, there is less risk of gaps between the panels, since each board deforms evenly.
2. Horizontal installation reduces the risk of deformation - each lining is in its own "temperature zone". The lower rows fall into an area with an increased risk of the formation of fungal colonies - but they are relatively easy to replace during repairs. The disadvantages of such an installation, I will attribute the high probability of the formation of cracks in the skin - the top panels will shrink more due to greater heating, and the seams will almost certainly diverge.

Horizontal installation seems more suitable to me

Despite the above features, I am inclined to believe that it is better to place the sheathing horizontally in both a log cabin steam room and a brick bath. At the same time, it is worthwhile to think in advance about the possibility of the formation of cracks, and partially compensate for this risk, paying special attention to sealing the locks.

The installation of the lining itself can be carried out in two ways. With vertical installation, it is easiest to mount the boards on special clips - clamps:

1. The first panel is installed on the surface, after which clamps are put on the groove - one for each frame rail.
2. We level the board, and then we nail the clamps to the frame with nails or fix them with galvanized steel staples using a stapler.
3. We insert the next panel with a spike into the groove, align it for the tightest possible fit (do not hammer it - the board must remain movable) and also fix it with clamps.

Clamp mounting scheme

1. With vertical installation, this scheme can also be used, but it is not so convenient - the sheathing has to be carried out from top to bottom, so that the grooves of the boards are oriented towards the floor. If you do otherwise, then moisture will inevitably accumulate in the recesses of the grooves.

You can do without clips:

Nail mounting

1. The panel is installed on the base and leveled.
2. We put a special nail with a small hat in the groove at an angle and hammer it with a few precise hammer blows.

In order not to break the edges of the groove, having missed on impact, I use an “extension”: I press a small hammer to the nail head and strike it with the middle one.

1. We deepen the protruding hats with a thin finisher.
2. We carry out further assembly in the same way as in the previous case - but instead of kleimers, we simply hammer nails diagonally.

We fix the boards on the ceiling in the same way as on the walls.

After completing the sheathing, we impregnate all wooden surfaces with a special compound. Varnishes and stains will not work here: the instruction strongly recommends using products that are focused specifically on wood processing in baths and saunas.

Step 3. Steam room equipment

Sheathing walls and ceilings is a very important and time-consuming process, but, alas, it is not the final one. After the walls are finished with wooden clapboard, we perform the following operations:

Solid wood floor

1. We lay the floor on a rough base of boards or plywood. For the floor, we take either a massive board or a tile floor tile.
2. The junction of the walls and the floor is covered with skirting boards.
3. We equip a place for the heater by mounting a metal screen on the floor and the adjacent wall.

Screen installation diagram

1. We assemble a two- or three-level canopy (it's a shelf, it's a bunk - they call it differently!) From wooden beams on a frame. When assembling, we make sure that all metal fasteners are fixed exclusively from the inside: in a heated bath, any contact with the head of a nail or self-tapping screw is an almost guaranteed burn.

Shelf drawing with dimensions

When fastening with self-tapping screws from the outside, their caps must be sunk into secret holes with a depth of at least 5 mm, and the holes themselves should be closed with wooden pins.

1. We install the heater and mount a wooden grate around it.
2. We connect a special lamp for the steam room to the wires brought out from under the skin.
3. We install a door in the opening, which we adjust so that it closes as tightly as possible. By the way, for any size of the steam room, the door should only open outward - for safety reasons..

The door only opens outwards!

1. We insert a special wooden plug with a handle and seals around the perimeter into the ventilation hole.
2. Well, and most importantly, we hang a thermometer that will show how “cool” we heated our steam room!

Conclusion

The interior decoration of the steam room must be impeccable, because the high temperature and humidity in this room do not forgive mistakes. What will “come down” in an ordinary room will definitely “come to the surface” in the bathhouse, therefore we don’t cheat!

Finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands: 3 stages of lining

Finishing the steam room in the bath with your own hands: how and what to sheathe inside, video instruction and photo

Having finished the construction work on the construction of a bathhouse on your personal plot, you need to think about the interior decoration of the premises. This is quite a serious job, but if you approach it correctly, then the interior decoration of the bath (in the pictures we will also try to show it to you) will seem like an exciting process.

The choice of material for wall decoration

Of course, the most important decision in this work will be the choice of finishing material. At the same time, one should not dwell on one type of wood - a combination of different types of wood will bring a special charm and comfort to the bath. Also, when choosing a material for finishing, you need to know its properties. Otherwise, staying in the bath will bring disappointment instead of pleasure.

For finishing dressing rooms, rest rooms and other rooms that do not come into contact with high temperatures, you can use pine. This rather cheap material is easily processed and has a beautiful structure. Pine is highly discouraged from being used in steam rooms, as when the wood is heated, resin is released, which will constantly cause a lot of inconvenience. As a rule, the steam and washing rooms are finished with linden or larch. This material perfectly retains color and, moreover, even in the hottest bath, touching the skin, it is impossible to get burned.

It is important to immediately consider where the shelves will be installed, where accessories for bath procedures will be placed. After all, they are the most important elements of the ancient rite of washing and are of great importance. But you should not pile up bath appliances, especially if the room is small, otherwise the risk of injury increases when visiting the bath.

Wall decoration in the bath

Interior decoration in the bath is not performed by all types of wood. And even more so, there should not be any linoleum and chipboard in the bath. These are flammable materials that become toxic when heated, which is dangerous to health. For these purposes, alder, larch, birch, aspen, poplar, cedar, abachi or linden are perfect. Such wood, even in very hot rooms, does not heat up too much, since it has a low thermal conductivity. Resinous substances do not stand out from it, and after bathing procedures everything dries out quickly.

Wood for the interior decoration of the bath is not covered with paints or varnishes, since when heated, these chemical coatings will necessarily begin to evaporate, poisoning the air and negatively affecting the human body.

Most often, the walls in the bath are covered with clapboard. This process should take place after the walls are covered with mineral insulation and a layer of aluminum foil. Alternatively, foil tepofol. It performs the same functions, but is much more practical and easier to install. All this will seal the room.

It should also be noted that the lining should not be closely adjacent to the layer of foil or insulation. An air gap should form between them. This is exactly what happens, because the lining is mounted on a pre-installed crate made of timber.

The timber (yards) is installed on the walls parallel to the floor at a distance of about 50 cm from each other. In this case, use the level. After installing the frame, it is covered with an antiseptic. Before installation, they do the same with the lining. Start laying the lining from the corner. Fasteners are carried out using nails, staples or clamps.

If you fix the lining in the places of locks with nails, then they will remain invisible.

The device of the floor in the bath

After you have chosen the materials for the interior decoration of the bath, you can get to work. The finishing process begins with the floor, which is mounted on the logs.

Logs must be laid on brick posts, which are installed on a sand or concrete base.

The lag size is 200x200 or 250x250 mm, the laying step can be chosen close to 1 m, since the load on the floor will be minimal. The board for the floor is used tongue-and-groove or edged. It should be noted that in order to keep warm in the steam room, the floor in it must be at least 150 mm higher than the floor in the washing room.

Hardwood boards about 30 cm thick are used as the material. Both logs and floor boards are covered with an antiseptic to prevent the growth of fungus and mold.

If the use of a wooden floor is allowed in rest rooms or locker rooms, then this is not welcome in the washing and steam rooms of the bath. These places are constantly under the influence of hot water and steam, so the tree will quickly become unusable. In addition, the wooden floor will always be dirty, as it is very difficult to clean.

Therefore, ceramic tiles will be an ideal material for finishing the floor in the steam room. Due to the fact that hot air rises, a temperature close to 30 degrees is maintained at the floor level, which means that this will not bring any discomfort. So that the feet do not slip on the tile, you can build small wooden lattices, which, after bath procedures, are taken out to dry in the fresh air.

The floor in the bath is made with a slight slope (1:100) and equipped with a drain so that excess moisture does not stagnate.

Shelves in the bath

In any bath, there must be shelves and benches on which you can sit or lie. As a rule, they are made in a rounded shape - this type is the most convenient and aesthetic. But the main requirement that is presented is their reliability and durability: the shelves should not creak and stagger. The material is soft wood, free of resin pockets and has a light and pleasant smell. Shelves can be made by hand or bought ready-made in specialized stores. If you are wondering how the interior of the bath should look like, the photos below will demonstrate this.

The surface of the lining and boards for finishing the shelves is carefully cleaned and polished so that it becomes perfectly smooth. Boards or lining are attached to pre-installed timber posts. Materials are nailed to the seats with a small gap so that moisture does not stagnate, and the wood dries well. For fasteners, either wooden pegs or nails are used, which are driven in deeper so that touching them does not cause a burn.

Shelves in the bathhouse are arranged in two or three tiers. This is the so-called step structure. The second option is the L-shaped arrangement of the shelves: one wall has two steps, the other has only one. The “coupe” option, when the top shelf is located above the bottom one, like in a train, is good for small spaces.

The size of the shelves in the bath depends on the size of the room. On average, it is up to 2 m long and 60-90 cm wide. From the top shelf to the ceiling should be at least 1 - 1.20 m, from the top step to the middle and from the middle to the bottom - 0.4-0.6 m.

Bathroom ceiling decoration

The material used for wall decoration is also used for the ceiling. Since there will be the highest possible temperature under the ceiling, the material for its decoration should contain a minimum amount of resin. If you ignore this requirement, then the cost of interior decoration of the bath can increase significantly after the first soaring. “A miser pays twice”, which means that you will have to change the lining of the ceiling of the bath. In order not to have to do this, immediately choose high-quality materials - pine and spruce are definitely not suitable for a steam room. But in the dressing room they can be used to the fullest.

Washing department in the bath

The modern washing compartment in the bath is an ordinary shower cabin, equipped with a pair of shelves for folding various small accessories. When decorating the bath with your own hands, and especially when it comes to the washing department, moisture-resistant materials should be provided. It is a tile for walls, a self-leveling floor or a tile - for a floor. These options for finishing the washing room are the most durable and practical. To prevent slippery walking on such floors, use wooden coasters or rubber mats.

Bathroom lighting installation

The bath is a rather dangerous object in terms of electrical safety, therefore the maximum permitted voltage supplying the electric lamps should not exceed 12 watts.

Most often, incandescent lamps and fiber optic systems are used in baths. LEDs in this case are not entirely practical, since they do not withstand high temperatures well.

Luminaires used to illuminate all rooms must be hermetically sealed so that moisture does not get inside. The wires are laid under a layer of thermal insulation, they are carefully insulated beforehand. Switches must be placed outside the steam room. Electrical wiring should be laid and fixed to the walls and ceiling before the interior of the bath is completed. They do this in order to hide the wires from mechanical damage or destruction under the action of hot steam and prolonged exposure to elevated temperatures. If the wires are laid on the surface, then they are hidden in a special box.

For baths, there are wooden, light-scattering lampshades. Place lamps in the bath on the sides under the ceiling or along the entire wall.

In some cases, the lamps are placed under the backs of the seats: the backrest is also a decorative grille for the lamp. There should not be many lamps so that the light does not hit the eyes.

Beautiful diffusing light is emitted by fiber optic lighting systems for saunas. These lamps are safe, since the lamp itself (projector) is located outside the steam room, and in the steam room there are only optical fibers that conduct light.

With the help of such a device, you can create the most unimaginable lighting options in the bath and color combinations. Do you want - the starry sky, do you want - the northern lights, do you want - the flame of fire. Such lighting, moreover, is economical and durable.

If you look at how the interior decoration of the bath is carried out on the video, you will already know exactly what is being done and how. The whole process is quite laborious, so you need to prepare well, study all the stages, choose the right materials, and then proceed to the interior decoration of the bath. The price for such work will no longer be of interest to you, since you can do everything yourself. What you get as a result will please you and your loved ones for many years.

Russian bath is an excellent way to get rid of all everyday problems and relax your body and soul. But how complete the bathing process will be, first of all, depends on the interior decoration of the bath, that is, how comfortable it is and meets all the wishes of the owner. Further, in the material with a photo, we will talk about how to make a bath inside, and what materials can be used for this.

First of all, it is worth saying that the process of interior decoration includes its complete arrangement, starting with the installation of vapor barrier and ending with the assembly and installation of furniture and decorative elements. If you have construction skills, you can do all the finishing work of the bath yourself, otherwise, it is better to use the services of professionals.

Decoration Materials

Any internal work in the bath begins with the selection of suitable materials. Finishing the bath with wood is one of the most common options, especially for the steam room. However, there are a number of restrictions for this room, so not every material can be used in it.

This is due to the operating conditions of the steam room - an increased level of humidity and high temperature indicators. In such a microclimate, a number of materials begin to release toxic substances that are harmful to health.

For finishing the steam room, you can not use the following types of materials:

1. Pine board, which, with increasing temperature, begins to release resins that can be dangerous to humans.
2. Chipboard or chipboard. In addition to the fact that such materials begin to swell at high humidity, they also begin to release toxins that are part of the adhesive mixtures for their production.
3. Linoleum is also prone to release toxins, and is also prone to decay and deterioration.

But the decoration of the bath inside in the dressing room and the rest room may well be made of such materials. The dressing room trimmed with pine boards will be especially comfortable. They will give the air in the room a light coniferous aroma and a real Russian flavor.

Optimally for wall decoration in the bath, it is in the steam room that larch and linden are suitable. Preferably, of course, larch, which is resistant to high temperatures and humidity, and is very durable. However, in the absence of such, linden wood can also be used.

It is better to use a tree for lining a bath with your own hands in the form of a lining. These lightweight panels can be attached conveniently, are breathable and can be easily replaced if damaged. And since a heater will be located under the lining layer, it can be considered an almost ideal material for finishing the steam room.

Bath decoration technology

Whatever materials the construction of the bath is made of, the finishing is carried out using approximately the same technology. Although it is still worth familiarizing yourself with the nuances of the process before starting work.

You need to move in the process of work from the bottom up, that is, from the floor to the ceiling.

So, the interior lining of the bath is carried out in several stages:

1. The first step is the flooring in the steam room from larch boards. It is not recommended to use oak in this case, as it is quite slippery. The floor level in the steam room must be raised by 10 cm in order to better retain heat.
2. The lower shelf should be 10-15 cm higher than the level of the stove.
3. Further along the walls, a crate is made, along which the lining is attached.
4. Upon completion of the manipulations with the walls, you can take on the decoration of the ceiling.
5. After the finishing of the wooden bath is completed, you can proceed with the installation of equipment and furniture. Ready-made items can be purchased at specialized stores.

Advantages of lime lining

It is worth noting that lining made of linden wood is not cheap at all, however, it is best suited for finishing the bath inside.

The advantages of the material are:

• long service life;
• attractive appearance;
• the ability to "breathe", that is, to pass air;
• resistance to high temperatures and constant humidity;
• pleasant subtle fragrance.

Working with wooden lining

Before you finish the bath inside with your own hands, you need to work out the surface of the walls, that is, make them absolutely even, otherwise, the lining will lie in waves.

The wood must get used to the conditions inside the steam room, so before you properly make a bath inside, the lining must be left indoors for a couple of days.

Next, proceed to the installation of the crate under the lining. To do this, the slats are nailed to the walls with a gap of 70 cm between them. First install the slats around the edges. All other elements are attached using a level and a plumb line. To fix the tree, you will need zinc-plated or stainless steel screws, since everything else will rust quickly.

If you are sure that the walls are perfectly even, you can nail the lining directly to them, without crates. And if there are still doubts, it is better to use a proven technique.

A lining can be nailed onto a prepared crate, which even an inexperienced person can do. Fasteners for lining must be with anti-corrosion coating, resistant to high temperatures. Using lining, almost anyone can complete the interior decoration of the bath.

Why you need a vapor barrier

The peculiarity of the Russian bath is that it is always very humid in it, so for its decoration it is better to dwell on materials that are able to pass air, that is, to be ventilated. So you should figure out in which cases you need to install a vapor barrier layer.

The need for vapor barrier is directly related to what types of bath finishes were used. So, if inside the bath is sheathed with wood, then a vapor barrier is not needed, since the wood "breathes".

But if the bath is brick, then vapor barrier will be required if special ventilation holes are not provided. In any case, it is better to consult with experts on this issue.

Finishing the bath with ceramic tiles

The main advantage of the tile is its functionality and low cost. It is optimally suited for flooring in a dressing room or rest room. It is very durable, not affected by moisture and temperatures, does not collapse, and is easy to maintain. In addition, tiles allow you to create an original interior.

Tiles can be divided into two categories:

Ceramic bath tiles should be glazed, as they are better able to withstand fluctuations in temperature and humidity, unlike unglazed ones.

It is worth remembering that it is better to tile the floor in the bath with tiles with a rough textured surface, which will prevent slipping and avoid injury.

This rule also applies to wall cladding, as condensation accumulates on them. Be careful not to slip or fall.

Another point regarding the choice of tiles for the bath concerns its base. It is advisable to purchase a material with a smooth base that will fit snugly to the floor and will not cause mold to spread.

The shape of ceramic tiles for a bath can be square, rectangular, and complex geometric shapes. However, in the absence of much experience, it is better to stop at a rectangular tile, which is the easiest to lay.

Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to determine the exact amount needed for cladding. And you need to purchase 5-10% more material in case of scrap, trimming or damage.

The sequence of laying ceramic tiles is as follows:

1. The tile is soaked in water for several minutes, so that the glue sets better with its base. This minimizes the consumption of adhesive during installation.
2. Having determined the most noticeable corner in the room from the entrance, the tiles begin to be laid from there.
3. Glue is applied to each tile using a notched trowel. Having applied it to the floor, the edges of the tile are tapped with a mallet so that the glue is evenly distributed and excess air comes out.
4. Crosses will help to ensure uniform seams between the tiles.
5. As the glue dries, the crosses are removed. And when everything is completely dry and the tiles have set, the joints can be filled with the grout of your choice.

It is noteworthy that ceramic tiles look equally good on the floor and on the walls. The mosaic looks especially advantageous and original. If the tiles need to be cut when laying, then special tools will help to cope with this task.

The final stage of finishing the bath inside will be the selection of furniture suitable for the interior.

Interior decoration of the bath: wall cladding inside with wood, how to decorate a wooden bath with your own hands, how to do it right, construction, types of finishing work, photos and videos

Interior decoration of the bath: wall cladding inside with wood, how to decorate a wooden bath with your own hands, how to do it right, construction, types of finishing work, photos and videos

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath (photo)

The bath is a place not only for physical purification, but also for the restoration of spiritual harmony, it helps to heal the soul and body. For a comfortable and pleasant bathing, high-quality interior decoration of the bath is very important. Photo or video materials are not always good when studying repair work, where information accumulated over the centuries is more important. Therefore, having decided to build a bathhouse or restore an existing room with your own hands, you should very carefully study the rules and methods for decorating its interior. Everyone makes the choice of a suitable design, based on their own taste.

However, there are general rules for all in choosing an interior, which should be followed for the harmonious functioning of the entire complex. By properly designing the bathhouse, you can minimize heat loss, increase the durability of the structure, and protect visitors from accidental burns. Also, the interior lining of the room contributes to the release of aroma particles at high temperatures, which heal the human body. If desired, you can significantly reduce the cost of repairs, for which the interior decoration in the bath is done by hand.

Adhering to the correct technology for carrying out this process, there is no doubt about the durability, quality, and most importantly, the positive effect of the whole complex on health.

Finishing materials

When viewing articles where various design options are presented, the wooden interior of the bath immediately catches your eye. Photos presented in various sources offer many interesting ideas for a bath complex, the lining of which is made of wood. This material is the most environmentally friendly and has a positive effect on human well-being. In addition, its main characteristics include high thermal and moisture resistance.

A log house made of wood is the most common type of building for a steam room. The interior of the bath should also be wooden. From a log, the most environmentally friendly bath complex is obtained, which has good ventilation and, as a result, a good hygienic environment.

But not every type of wood is suitable for these purposes. Cedar, linden, hornbeam, oak and ash have long been considered the most suitable. Linden and pine are the most widely used, since when heated, they most actively release specific substances and have a healing effect on the human body.

Particularly sophisticated lovers will like the interior decoration of the bath, combined-type saunas, which combine several types of wood.

The main criterion when choosing a sheathing is the quality of the material, which must be perfectly hewn. The wood inside the bath is never painted or varnished, because when the temperature is high, the effect of harmful chemicals increases dramatically and can seriously harm health. In the absence of a coating, wood releases essential oils much better.

Materials should be selected based on the knowledge of experienced professionals. Only in this case, a do-it-yourself bathhouse, the interior decoration of which is carried out in accordance with all the rules, will in no way be inferior to a complex designed by professionals.

Deciduous wood species should be preferred for ceiling decoration. When choosing needles for these purposes, one should expect the release of resinous substances that can leave a rather unpleasant burn on the skin.

The interior decoration of the bath requires a thoughtful approach when choosing materials for each room. Equipping the vestibule and washing, you can use various tiles. But as for the steam room, there is a whole science for its design.

Walls in the steam room

The highest temperatures are maintained in the steam room, therefore, the materials of the highest quality should be chosen here. Hardwoods are best suited, which have greater heat resistance, which will prevent burns from accidentally touching the walls. Also, these rocks dry out quickly, which helps maintain a healthy microclimate in the steam room.

The interior decoration of the bath allows the use of lining, which is fastened with flush nails. Boards are not covered with any additional decorative materials.

It is also necessary to provide a reliable vapor barrier, which can be folgoizol, glassine. Wall insulation can be mineral wool, foamed polypropylene with a foil coating. The sequence of these materials is as follows: insulation, then vapor barrier, followed by an air gap and finishing lining.

The floor in the steam room

The floor in the bath must be laid under a slope, along which water will drain into a place specially designated for it. Here you should mount the siphon for draining. This is a very important point in the arrangement of the steam room, because the moisture in it should not linger for a long time.

You should not use wood for the floor of the bath, as it will be its wettest place. For these purposes, ceramic tiles are more suitable, which will extend the life of the entire floor structure of the room and will be much more convenient to maintain. You can also use a wooden coating, but its durability is much inferior to ceramic tiles. The floor level of the steam room should be made higher than the level of the washing room (15 cm).

Benches in the bath

The aesthetic appearance of benches and shelves in the bath depends on the customer's imagination. Oak, poplar, aspen and linden are suitable for these interior items. The edges of benches and shelves should be rounded, and their surface should be smoothly sanded. They are most often placed under blank walls.

The distance of the top shelf to the ceiling is in the range from 1 to 1.2 m. The distance of the benches from the oven is at least half a meter.

Furnace finish

When planning the interior decoration of the bath, you need to take seriously the choice of the stove, because it is the soul of the whole complex. Each oven has its own character.

This part of the interior, if properly designed, will not only brighten up the overall appearance, but will also become the key to the fire safety of the bath.

There are several options for finishing the stove, which depend on the budget and imagination of the owner of the bath. So, you can finish this element of the bath complex with tiles, use a steel case or simply plaster the stove.

Washroom finish

The most important parameter that the interior decoration of the bath in the washing room requires is the moisture resistance of wood. You can use needles. Its good resistance to damp conditions will extend the life of the room.

Doors and windows should be kept small to help prevent unnecessary heat loss. Windows should be made double, and doors should be made of durable wood.

bath interior technology

Technologically, the interior decoration of the bath is carried out in the following sequence:

• the material must be acclimatized in the bathhouse for at least 24 hours;
• preparation of the lining of the lining;
• installation of hydro and thermal insulation;
• installation of wood panels;
• selection and installation of furniture.

All of the above steps require compliance with a certain accuracy and accuracy of work, otherwise all the shortcomings will eventually make themselves felt.

Rest room decoration

When designing a lounge, it is very important to choose the right interior design and avoid big expenses. A suitable option here would be pine, which is of high quality and has a large number of shades. When using this material, there are no problems with applying varnish. The resins contained in the pine structure perform a protective function.

Spruce is also well suited for these purposes. It is more difficult to process, but this material will add originality to the room.

Using oak for decoration of the rest room, there is no doubt about its strength and durability.

It is important to comply with all technical standards for interior design, which will ensure a long service life of the premises. A built bathhouse (with your own hands), the interior decoration of which meets all construction and sanitary and hygienic requirements, will last for many years, healing the people in it and pleasing the eye with its unique interior design.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath (photo)

The bath is a place not only for physical purification, but also for the restoration of spiritual harmony, it helps to heal the soul and body. For a comfortable and pleasant bathing, high-quality interior decoration of the bath is very important.

How to make the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands

The bath was used for ablution by our ancestors. This is a specially designated room where you can wash, relax and improve your health. The construction of a bathhouse requires knowledge and skills, so it is better to entrust such work to professional builders, but if you have a desire, you can build a bathhouse with your own hands.

For guidance, you can use a video that will teach you how to do the job correctly. It is important not only to build a structure, but also to produce it. interior decoration. To do this, you need to follow the recommendations and advice on construction, make an effort, show diligence and perseverance.

What materials to use for finishing the bath

Important in the construction of the bath is its interior decoration. Everyone can show imagination so that the room becomes cozy and comfortable for relaxing and swimming. Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath is very important. Competent finishing of the dressing room, shower room is an important stage in construction. It must be approached with all responsibility, so that later you do not have to redo your work. The choice of finishing materials plays an important role in construction.

Today there are a huge number of them on sale, and which one to choose is up to you. by the most the best material is wood. It is better not to use one type of wood for finishing the bath and steam room. When installing a dressing room and a steam room inside, it is advisable to use different types of wood. If you do not understand this, then it is better to watch the video, which can be found in large numbers on the Internet.

Pine for finishing the bath

The most affordable and inexpensive finishing material is pine. It is better to use it for interior decoration of the dressing room. It is not suitable for a steam room. In this room, the temperature is high, the level of humidity is increased. In pine wood in large quantities contains resin, which, under the influence of high temperatures, begin to ooze from the wood, emit a strong odor, so swimming in such an environment is highly undesirable.

Wood for bathroom decoration

Linden is well suited for the steam room. This wood is the best suited for a steam room. If you trim the bath with linden wood, then you can not be afraid of burns, harmful fumes. Linden lining thermally stable, it does not heat up much, retains its original color for a long time. In addition to linden, other wood is also used to decorate the premises, and this is an aspen lining, timber and boards made of birch, poplar. Do-it-yourself decoration of the bath inside should be done with lining from these types of wood. They have a solid structure, they are reliable and durable, do not change their color, durable, so they will serve their owners for more than one year. This wood outperforms pine in its qualities and can easily replace it.

Aspen, birch and poplar belong to hardwoods trees. They dry fairly quickly and are water repellent. Such qualities are especially important in the construction and decoration of the bath. Each type of tree has its own unique properties. Linden, for example, charges a person, invigorates him, removes negative emotions, gives him a good mood. Aspen wood has a healing effect, it can draw diseases out of a person, relieves negative energy.

So, you built a bathhouse with your own hands. In order to keep the heat in the room, you need insulate walls and ceiling, and then just start finishing work inside the bath. The most popular material for this is natural wood, which has undergone special processing. The interior decoration of the dressing room and the steam room can be done using one or more types of wood. A lining is made from it, with which the walls and ceiling of the bath are sheathed.

Lining for a bath

Wooden lining considered an ideal finishing material. It is used for interior decoration of the bath. It is used in the steam room, in the bathing department, in the dressing room. Lining made of wood is used for do-it-yourself bath decoration, it is used to decorate the ceiling and walls. It is made at woodworking factories from wood of different species. For this, high quality material is used, which is subjected to phased processing.

Modern technologies make it possible to produce finishing materials of various types and sizes. This diversity makes it possible decorate the interior of the bath. Lining made of wood is very economical, it is thin, processed boards with cut grooves. The boards are mounted using the groove-to-groove method. They fit tightly to each other, create one common structure. Properly laid lining prevents the penetration of dampness and moisture into the grooves. She stays dry. The finished wood lining is treated with a special protective compound, so it will not require replacement for a long time.

To extend the life of the finishing material for the bath, you can additionally treat it with an antiseptic. Before applying it, the wood must be sanded. To do this, use fine-grained sandpaper. Such processing will make the surface of the lining especially smooth, which will make it possible to better penetrate the protective composition into the wood. Before laying the lining, it should be treated with an antiseptic on both sides, then it should be dried. Finishing material, which will be used for the dressing room, washing compartment, must be coated with a protective solution twice. The lining, which will be used in the steam room, is enough to process 1 time.

How to make a crate

So, you have insulated the room, prepared the lining, processed and dried it, now let's proceed to bath interior design and do it by hand. At the beginning of work, you need to make a crate. It will serve as a frame on which you will attach the finishing material. Installation of the crate structure begins with the strengthening and location of the upper and lower bars. This design will be used for the vertical fastening of the panels.

If you decide place the wooden lining horizontally, then the wooden bars are mounted vertically, for this you need to step back a little from the corners of the building. To create an even structure, you should stretch the mounting cord between the main bars. With the help of a level, a plumb line and a mounting cord, we fix the intermediate structural elements.

How to decorate the walls in the bath with your own hands

So, you have assembled the crate, now you can proceed to the interior decoration. For this, only natural wood is used. Laying linoleum or other synthetic materials in the bath is prohibited. These materials of artificial origin. They cannot be used for interior decoration:

1. they are flammable;
2. when heated, they emit toxic fumes;
3. harmful to health.

For finishing the interior of the bath, steam room and washing department, natural wood is best suited. For this, the following types of trees are used:

These types of wood have a dense structure, they heat up rather slowly, so they are safe, you will never get burned. Wooden lining dries quickly, it is smooth and pleasant to the touch, when heated it emits a faint aroma. The wood used for the interior decoration of the bathhouse, steam room and washing room should not be covered with paint or varnish. With prolonged heating, the chemicals that make up the paint evaporate, they enter the air, poison the bathing person.

How to lay the lining with your own hands

During the interior decoration of the bath, the walls, shelves and ceiling in the room are covered with wooden clapboard. This stage of construction takes place after wall insulation. To do this, use mineral wool, which is covered with a sheet of aluminum foil on top. After mounting the crate and frame, it is impregnated with an antiseptic. The lining should also be processed, allowed to dry, and then mounted. Laying work should start from the corner.

For installation, a fastening tool is used, and these are nails, staples. Finishing the interior should start from the floor. It is mounted on wooden logs. To do this, take boards whose thickness is not less than 30 centimeters. It is desirable that they be made of hardwood. All logs, floorboards on top impregnated with antiseptic. This is very important, because inside the bath is constantly damp, fungi can start, mold can form, which will lead to rotting of the wood.

Floor finish

When equipping the dressing room, you can mount a wooden floor. This cannot be done in the steam room and washing department. It is constantly damp here, steam settles on the walls and floor in the room. Wooden floors in such a room will quickly rot. What material to use for the floors in the steam room? Ceramic floor tiles are the best for this.

Advantages of ceramic tiles:

The tile allows you to maintain a good sanitary condition in the room. It washes well, dries quickly, and prevents the growth of mold and fungi. For safe swimming, so as not to fall, it is better to use wooden shelving. They are made in the form of lattices, rise after bathing to dry. In general, a properly made bath will help improve your body. Here you can relax with friends, carry out cosmetic procedures, cleanse your body of accumulated toxins.

How to make the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands, the choice of material

How to independently finish the bath from the inside, what materials are better to use for this. What types of wood are best used for finishing the dressing room, steam room.

Do-it-yourself bath: interior decoration

Bath is an amazing place for relaxation and recuperation. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Each owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article, we bring to your attention a few tips on how to equip a bath with your own hands, the interior decoration of which is no less important than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bath yourself, then this article will come in handy for you. Here you will find professional instructions for different types of finishes, step-by-step photos of important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve your tasks at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of building technology when cladding, sheathing, etc.

Finishing inside the bath is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bath, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bath and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

Features of the interior decoration of the bath

A modern Russian bath involves the presence of several rooms:

If you have built a large bath, then it is quite possible to equip an additional relaxation room, a billiard room, a kitchen area, a barbecue area, a swimming pool and much more in it. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bath, equipped with everything that you think is necessary and useful. However, this does not affect the basic defining requirements for the bath:

• all rooms should have an attractive and practical design;
• in the steam room there should be hot and pleasant steam;
• in the washing should be comfortable and safe.

Finishing has a big impact on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior decoration, it still needs to be done in the bath. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for a comfortable stay, as well as significantly extend the life of walls, floors, ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. How best to finish the steam room, washing, vestibule, read below.

When planning the finishing of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

• The constant presence of heated steam coming in a concentrated and dense stream;
• Temperature fluctuations, heating to high temperatures;
• High humidity level.

The conditions in the steam room are, one might say, extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern widest range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose the option that will best meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the sheathing board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

• Low heat capacity, the ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
• moisture resistance;
• High aesthetic characteristics;
• Pleasant smell, no tar when heated;
• Resistance to fungus and mold;
• Air purification.

Today, there are several classes of lining:

• C-class. Differs in low cost. But for finishing the bath, its characteristics are not high enough.
• B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which, for every 1.5 m of length, there are no more than four knots;
• A-class. May have shallow cracks. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m of length is allowed on each panel.
• Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding cost. The color is uniform, cores and knots are absent.

The most common profiles are eurolining, thorn-groove, Softline, Calm.

Linden lining shows excellent results as an interior finish for a bath. Its density is quite low, due to which it does not heat up very much in the steam room. However, it does not emit tar. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

And also lining from other types of wood is suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing one or another material for sheathing, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, well-treated, and free of nicks, knots, and other obvious defects. A high-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

Additional processing by special means does not require the material for sheathing the steam room. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before proceeding with lining the clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. An affordable and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose is mineral wool. It is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It successfully copes with the effects of high temperatures, so it will last a little longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then one cannot but recall the cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is designed not only to take a shower and wash yourself properly at a comfortable temperature. The washroom should have a place to relax, so you can leave the steam room for a while, treat yourself to massages, face and body masks and other relaxing and enjoyable treatments. It is necessary to think over all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be carried out taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If for a steam room you can choose among hardwoods, then only conifers are suitable for a washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very easy to explain this choice. Softwood is resinous and highly water-repellent. Therefore, under washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood, and will last for many years, while maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of material for finishing floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room are a comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is made of concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid out on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bath, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washroom can be completely wooden, but ceramic tile as the main finish is a more practical and durable option. She copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

Tambour and lounge

A high level of humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath. This is the most important aspect that must be considered when choosing finishing materials. For the vestibule and other rooms, you can use any type of wood. But don't limit yourself to wood. Other materials are also suitable for high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms:

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of the baths. For example, a combination of natural stone and wood looks very solid and beautiful. Do-it-yourself bath will allow you to translate non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, the photo of which is presented on this page, will help you choose the best materials and their combinations.

Bathroom ceiling decoration

The ceiling of the bath must withstand high temperature loads, as well as cope with the flow of hot wet steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam with the help of heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them hermetically, then their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform a vapor barrier using foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material has a thinner thickness, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. This material, when exposed to high temperatures, releases substances toxic to humans, therefore it is unsuitable for use in bath rooms.

Each joint of the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is glued with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is pierced, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole must be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from the wooden floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

• 2mm stainless steel sheet
• galvanized box;
• Clamp clamp.

Cutting the ceiling is carried out mainly in order to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling slabs. In addition, in this way, the elements of the chimney receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

The box 400x400 mm is installed from the side of the attic. A sheet of stainless steel 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, from the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is fitted with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and the steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the duct contour.

The steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath in stages: ceiling lining

We bring to your attention an instruction that will help you complete the lining of the ceiling in the bath with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

• The ceiling is sheathed with slats 2x4 cm. They are fastened with a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
• Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
• Fastening panels begins with one of the walls. The first bar is exposed with the groove out. The spike of another panel is hammered into it. The order of connection of the spike and groove can be changed, it is not fundamental.

Note! When sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material gently and gently without damaging it.

• Fasten the planks using special clamps. Kleimers are attached to the rail with a screw or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time to complete the work is significantly reduced.
• There should be gaps between the sheathing and the wall, up to 2.5 cm in size. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps, it is enough to nail the ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with inconspicuous nails. It is necessary to hammer in such nails at an angle, and drive the hat tightly into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing should be carried out along strictly vertical lines. A level check is required after each panel installed. If there is no level at hand, then you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values ​​obtained as a result of the measurements diverge, then the lining must be knocked out so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the skin will turn out uneven and sloppy. Stuffing is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove with a mallet or hammer to fit the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness in another way. The wooden lining is fixed and sharp wood chips are hammered under it.

wall cladding

The only material suitable for wall cladding in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tile, etc. In the vestibule and the relaxation room, you can create original ensembles by combining different materials.

Clapboard wall cladding

According to the main parameters, wall cladding with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling decoration.

• The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step - 80-100 cm.
• In the recesses between the bars you need to put a heater. For example, mineral wool. It is cut with a sharp knife into appropriate pieces. It is not necessary to tamp the heater.

• With separate bars, you need to separate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe door and the window;
• Now you can go directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls, without lingering in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the panel spike should be directed upwards so that moisture does not collect or linger in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by fixing the boards to the ceiling. The crate in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with kleimers, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you are using self-tapping screws or nails, then insert them at an angle, driving the caps deep into the wood. Ventilation gaps of about 2 cm should remain between the ceiling and the sheathing, the floor and the sheathing.

A common problem that people face when doing self-cladding of the walls of the bath with clapboard is the need to cut the material. It's easy to do. You can cut the lining with a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is cut to the desired size and fixed to the crate. The next wall starts with a panel where the comb is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last rail of the previous wall. In the corners, the elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angle values ​​before sawing the batten or panel. Draw a line with a pencil on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no seams at the corners of the panels.

Isolate the stove from the wall

The most important moment when performing finishing work inside the bath is the insulation of the furnace. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

• Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
• Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. With a close location of the stove near the wall, the mineralite must be put in two layers. If at least 40 cm remains between the oven and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
• Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
• Solid red brick. They need to lay out the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
• Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath: we lay the tiles in stages

Ceramic tiles are the best option for finishing all bath rooms, except for the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the direct execution of work.

Preparatory stage

The preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists in removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. The preparation of wooden walls is to perform waterproofing. With a construction stapler, roofing felt, roofing felt is nailed onto wooden panels. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which a concrete solution is densely placed.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail an even beam. It will become the basis of a fine finish. Instead of a bar, a metal profile is also suitable. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal, use the building level. For vertical, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in the bath

You can prepare a tile fixing solution yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy a ready mix. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature fluctuations. Tiles must be immersed in water before laying to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will adhere much better to the mortar.

Start of work - from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially diligently, because it is he who determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the accuracy of the entire lining.

Glue is placed on the reverse side of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. Glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the adhesive protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tile with a rubber mallet.

It is important to maintain an equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you lay adjacent rows, fix special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will keep the same gap both in length and in height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After that, you can remove the level and wipe the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tile and giving it the final aesthetic appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles, you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. You can lay it evenly, diagonally, offset, patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or pattern, it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where which tile should be located. This will allow you to accurately complete the cladding and give your bath a truly original and unique look.

Terracotta stone cladding

An unusual and very stylish solution for a bath is terracotta tiles. They are ideal for this type of room, as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will work too.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• Mastic is densely distributed on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than conventional ceramic tiles;
• We apply the plate to the wall, press down and align;
• We continue to work in the same order with the rest of the plates;
• To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
• Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
• 10 hours after the installation is completed, you can start processing the seams. It is performed with a heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water to the density of sour cream.
• Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
• The grout is applied with a construction gun. The spout must be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
• The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not fall on the plates themselves or other surfaces.

Handling a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If the grout still gets on the tile, then do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It is better to wait a little while the grout dries. So, you can gently scrape it off.

• The direction of applying the grout can be any;
• Two hours later, you can move on to the stitching, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
• Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
• After that, you need to walk along the seams with a finger in a clean glove.

Floor finish

The wooden floor in the bath does not need additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying starts from one of the corners. In this case, the ideal evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bath is made with a slope towards the drain. But the approximate location of the tiles is still worth noting on the floor by level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
• The teeth of the spatula imprint a pattern on the mortar, which ensures its reliable connection with the tile;
• Tiles are laid out. In the process of work, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about slope formation! Tiles for the first row must be dry. And it is desirable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
• Corner elements are cut to the required size using a tile cutter;
• Plastic crosses are inserted into the seams to maintain an equal distance between the tiles;
• After two days, the masonry will dry and it can be treated with grout.

Finishing the interior of the bath on your own involves a serious contribution of material and physical resources. But if you approach this matter as responsibly as possible, then the result that you get will exceed all your expectations!

Do-it-yourself bath: interior decoration in stages: photo and video

Do-it-yourself bath: interior decoration. Features of the interior decoration of the bath. Step-by-step laying of tiles in the bath. Bathroom ceiling decoration.

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After the construction of the bath comes the turn of finishing work. Interior cladding performs an aesthetic function, and is also used as a protection for wall, ceiling and floor surfaces. The use of furniture in this room will give the interior its own style and a certain completeness. Finishing the bath inside, the photo of which can be viewed on the site, can be done by hand. To do this, you will need to prepare certain materials and familiarize yourself with the technology of installation work.

It is important to choose high-quality materials before finishing the bath inside. Photo interiors allows you to choose the appropriate option.

Materials should have the following advantages:

• resistance to moisture and vapors;
• hygiene and environmental friendliness;
• durability and strength;
• aesthetic qualities.

The lining inside cannot be varnished or painted, as such coatings will not let steam through. There should be a space of 20-30 mm between the facing material and the log house. In some cases, ceramics can be used. Such material does not absorb moisture and does not crack. Since such a floor covering is cold, it is possible to lay wood flooring on top.

Useful advice! It is better to use lining made of linden. Pine or spruce is not suitable for this room.

How to insulate and insulate walls?

It will allow you to see the features of the bath decoration inside the photo. The steam room must first be insulated. In some cases, mineral wool is used, which is laid on the crate. If the bath is built of stone or concrete, then you can do without. It is important to perform the correct waterproofing of the structure. Aluminum foil or even vapor barrier film is best suited for such purposes.

Wall insulation is carried out taking into account certain recommendations:

• when cutting the insulation, allowances of 5 mm should be left. This will ensure high-quality fixation of the material;
• when installing a vapor barrier material, it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the membrane and mount it with an overlap. In this case, the joints are fastened with a mounting tape;
• when working in small rooms, heat-insulating plates can be used, which are convenient to install even for one person.

If it is made of brick, then the thickness of the insulation can be about 10 cm. If the wall is made of timber more than 20 cm, then they can not be insulated. After finishing, you need original decor items.

Particular attention deserves the decoration of the rest room of the bath inside. Photos of interesting solutions can be found on the Internet.

Knowing some of the subtleties of installation will help to carry out high-quality finishing work:

• in the steam room, it is necessary to raise the floor level by 16-25 cm above the washing room. This will prevent excess moisture from entering the steam room;
• you should prefer edged board or tongue and groove. Both options must be moisture resistant;
• before cladding, all necessary communications must be carried out;
• when installing benches and shelves, it is worth making sure that their edges are rounded;
• there are no gaps between the boards.

Natural wood is used for interior decoration. Walls can be sheathed with clapboard, especially from cedar. The original interior can be created using a block house. These are processed boards that imitate real timber.

Windows and doors should be small to reduce heat loss. Doors must be strong and thick. For interior cladding, boards without knots are selected.

You can make a beautiful finish in the bath with your own hands. If you choose high-quality material and follow all installation technologies, you can create a functional and original cladding.

Video: ideas for finishing the steam room and sauna

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