Switching off the electrical panel. Apartment panel. Replacement of automatic machines and installation of RCD. Schemes for several consumers

It is difficult to imagine a distribution board without modern modular protection devices, such as circuit breakers, residual current devices, differential circuit breakers and all kinds of protection relays. But these modular devices are not always connected correctly and reliably.

In view of servicing electrical panels, I sometimes have to deal with errors in connecting the circuit breakers that are installed in them. It would seem, how can you connect an ordinary single-pole circuit breaker incorrectly? I stripped the cable to a certain length, inserted it into the terminals, and tightened the screws securely.

But no matter how strange it may sound, most people have “clumsy” hands and the build quality of the shields leaves much to be desired. Although in fact we all make or have made mistakes in one industry or another, and as the famous proverb says: “he who does nothing makes no mistakes.”

I welcome all friends to the “Electrician in the House” website. In this article we will look at and analyze several options for the most common and serious mistakes.

Connecting machines in the panel - entrance from above or below?

The first thing I would like to start with is the correct connection of the machine in principle. As you know, a circuit breaker has two contacts for connection, movable and fixed. Which pin should be connected to the top or bottom? To date, there has been a lot of controversy regarding this matter. There are a lot of questions and opinions on this matter on any electrical forum.

Let's turn to regulatory documents for advice. What does the PUE say about this? In the 7th edition of the PUE, clause 3.1.6. said:

As you can see, the rules say that supply wire when connecting machines in the shield should be connected, as a rule, to fixed contacts. This also applies to all ouzo, difavtomat and other protection devices. From this entire clipping, the expression “as a rule” is not clear. That is, it seems to be as it should be, but in some cases there may be an exception.

To understand where the moving and fixed contacts are located, you need to imagine the internal structure of the circuit breaker. Let's use the example of a single-pole circuit breaker to look at where the fixed contact is located.

Before us is an automatic machine of the BA47-29 series from iek. From the photo it is clear that its fixed contact is the upper terminal, and the moving contact is the lower terminal. If you look at the electrical symbols on the switch itself, you can also see here that the fixed contact is on top.

Circuit breakers from other manufacturers have similar markings on the housing. Take, for example, a machine from Schneider Electric Easy9; its fixed contact is also located on top. For Schneider Electric RCDs, everything is similar on top there are fixed contacts and moving ones below.

Another example is safety devices from Hager. On the body of the hager circuit breakers and RCDs you can also see symbols, from which it is clear that fixed contacts are on top.

Let's see if, from the technical side, it makes sense, how to connect the machine from above or below.

The circuit breaker protects the line from overloads and short circuits. When overcurrents occur, the thermal and electromagnetic releases located inside the housing react. From which side the power will be connected from above or below to trigger the releases there is absolutely no difference. That is, we can say with confidence that the operation of the machine is not affected by which contact the power is supplied to.

In truth, I should note that manufacturers of modern “branded” modular devices, such as ABB, Hager and others, allow power to be connected to the bottom terminals. For this purpose, the machines have special clamps designed for comb tires.

Why do the PUE recommend connecting to fixed contacts (top)? This rule was approved for general purposes. Any educated electrician knows that when performing work it is necessary to remove voltage from the equipment on which he will work. When “climbing” into the shield, a person intuitively assumes the presence of a phase on top of the machines. Having turned off the AV in the panel, he knows that there is no voltage at the lower terminals and everything that comes from them.

Now let’s imagine that Uncle Vasya, an electrician, did the work for you and connected the phase to the lower AB contacts. Some time has passed (a week, a month, a year) and you have a need to replace one of the machines (or add a new one). Electrician Uncle Petya comes, turns off the necessary machines and confidently reaches into the voltage with his bare hands.

In the recent Soviet past, all machine guns had a fixed contact at the top (for example, AP-50). Nowadays, based on the design of modular AVs, you can’t tell where the movable and where the fixed contact is. For the ABs that we discussed above, the fixed contact was located on top. Where are the guarantees that Chinese machines will have a fixed contact located on top?

For those who do not agree with me, a quick question is why in the electrical diagrams the power supply to the machines is connected precisely to the fixed contacts.

If we take, for example, a regular switch of the RB type, which is installed at every industrial facility, then it will never be connected upside down. Connecting power to switching devices of this kind relies only on the upper contacts. I turned off the switch and you know that the lower contacts are without voltage.

We connect the wires to the machine - a cable with a monolithic core

How do most users connect machines in the control panel? What mistakes can be made in this case? Let's look at the most common errors here.

Error – 1. Insulation coming into contact.

Everyone knows that before you need to remove the insulation from the connected wires. It would seem that there is nothing complicated here, I stripped the core to the required length, then we insert it into the clamping terminal of the machine and tighten it with a screw, thereby ensuring reliable contact.

But there are cases when people are perplexed why the machine burns out when everything is connected correctly. Or why the power in the apartment periodically disappears when the wiring and filling in the panel are completely new.

One of the reasons for the above contact with wire insulation under the contact terminal of the circuit breaker. Such a danger in the form of poor contact carries the threat of melting of the insulation, not only of the wire, but also of the machine itself, which can lead to a fire.

To eliminate this, you need to monitor and check how the wire is tightened in the socket. Correct connection of circuit breakers in the distribution board should eliminate such errors.

Error - 2. You cannot connect several wires of different sections to one AB terminal.

If the need arises connect several machines standing in the same row from one source (wire), a comb bus is ideally suited for this purpose. But such tires are not always at hand. How to combine several group machines in this case? Any electrician, answering this question, will tell you to make homemade jumpers from cable cores.

To make such a jumper, use pieces of wire of the same cross-section, or better yet, do not break it along its entire length. How to do this? Without removing the insulation from the wire, form a jumper of the desired shape and size (according to the number of branches). Then we strip the insulation from the wire at the bend to the required length, and we get an unbreakable jumper from a single piece of wire.

An example of connecting circuit breakers with jumpers from different cable sections. The first machine receives a “phase” with a 4 mm2 wire, and the other machines already have jumpers with a 2.5 mm2 wire. The photo shows that jumper made of wires of different sections. As a result, poor contact, increased temperature, melting of insulation not only on the wires, but also on the machine itself.

For example, let's try to tighten two wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm2 and 1.5 mm2 into the terminal of the circuit breaker. No matter how hard I tried to ensure reliable contact in this case, nothing worked. A wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 was hanging loosely.

Another example in the photo is a difavtomat, into the terminal of which they stuck two wires of different sections and tried to tighten the whole thing securely. As a result, the wire with a smaller cross-section dangles and sparks.

Error – 3. Formation of the ends of wires and cables.

This point most likely refers not to an error, but to a recommendation. To connect the cores of outgoing wires and cables to the machines, we remove the insulation from them by about 1 cm, insert the bare part into the contact and tighten it with a screw. According to statistics, 80% of electricians make connections this way.

The contact at the junction is reliable, but it can be further improved without wasting time and money. When connecting to machines cables with solid core make a U-shaped bend at the ends.

This formation of the ends will increase the area of contact of the wire with the surface of the clamp, which means the contact will be better. P.S. The inner walls of the AB contact pads have special notches. When the screw is tightened, these notches cut into the core, thereby increasing the reliability of the contact.

Connecting stranded wires to the machine

For wiring panels, electricians often prefer a flexible wire with a stranded core of type PV-3 or PuGV. It is easier and easier to work with than with a monolithic core. But there is one peculiarity here.

The main mistake that beginners make in this regard is connecting stranded wire to the circuit breaker without termination. If you crimp a bare stranded wire as it is, then when tightening, the strands are crushed and break off, and this leads to a loss of cross-section and deterioration of contact.

Experienced “specialists” know that it is impossible to tighten a bare stranded wire into a terminal. And for terminating stranded conductors, you need to use special tips NShV or NShVI.

In addition, if there is a need to connect two stranded wires to one terminal of the machine for this you need to use a double tip NSHVI-2. Using NSHVI-2 it is very convenient to form jumpers for connecting several group circuit breakers.

Soldering wires to the terminal of the machine - ERROR (error)

Separately, I would like to dwell on this method of terminating wires in a shield, such as soldering. Human nature is such that people try to save money on everything and do not always want to spend money on all kinds of tips, tools and all sorts of modern small things for installation.

For example, consider the case when an electrician from the housing office, Uncle Petya, wires the electrical panel with a multi-core wire (or connects outgoing lines to the apartment). He does not have NShVI tips. But you always have a good old soldering iron at hand. And the electrician, Uncle Petya, finds no other way out than to tin the multi-wire core, pushes the whole thing into the contact clamp of the machine and tightens it with a screw. Why is this dangerous?

When assembling distribution boards, DO NOT solder or tin the stranded core. The fact is that a tinned connection begins to “float” over time. And for such contact to be reliable, it must be constantly checked and tightened. But as practice shows, this is always forgotten. The soldering begins to overheat, the solder melts, the joint weakens even more and the contact begins to “burn out.” In general, such a connection can lead to a FIRE.

Therefore, if a stranded wire is used during installation, then NShVI lugs must be used to terminate it.

With an increase in electricity consumption and the number of appliances in the house, there is a need to replace standard panels with so-called “plugs” with modern machines. The optimal solution to the situation is to delegate such work to professionals. But if you have the knowledge, skills and patience, the detailed recommendations collected will help you install and assemble the shield yourself.

General questions about electrical panels

This device is required for installation in apartments and private houses. The shield performs several important functions for a comfortable and safe stay:

input and distribution of electricity;
creating suitable operating conditions for devices and wiring (voltage regulation).

Choosing an electrical panel is a fairly important stage, at which you can already make the first mistake. Some residents try to select components that will fit organically into the interior, and at the same time do not think about the properties of the materials.

One should not lose sight of the fact that the installation of an electrical panel can only be carried out if it is made of fire-resistant materials. It is also important to consider its capacity, since during operation it will be necessary to uniformly arrange the elements of the electricity input and distribution system.

Installation and installation of the switchboard

Before starting installation, it is necessary to draw up a detailed diagram of the panel. To do this, you need to determine the power supply system used in a particular room. Then you need to group the consumption points.

The most commonly used grouping scheme is:

room sockets;
switches and lighting;
other electrical appliances.

Important to know! Separate groups are used to connect boilers, washing machines and dishwashers to the panel. It is also necessary to take into account that for each device they use different machines that differ in characteristics.

Table of examples on the use of machines in an electrical panel circuit.

We begin internal installation

Once the diagram is drawn up, the installation procedure can begin. It is recommended to take shields that are designed for a larger number of connections (than are in the diagram). This will reduce costs during further modernization of the premises.

For reference! For work we will need the following tools: Phillips and straight screwdrivers, pliers, a tool for removing insulation from wires, a multimeter.

Modern technologies used in the manufacture of panels make it possible to secure the automatic devices and additional devices necessary for the distribution of electricity using DIN rails.

The use of such structures allows you to assemble the shield elements in just 4 steps:

1) Attach the machine to the rack with the rear groove.

2) Slightly pull out the fastening latch using a screwdriver.

3) Apply slight pressure on the body of the machine.

4) Release the latch to secure the element.

For successful installation of an electrical panel, it is important to consider what type of panel is used and how the site for its installation is prepared. For hidden wiring, it would be more rational to install a built-in or hidden panel. For its installation to be successful, you need to prepare a niche in the wall (if one is not provided for by the layout of the room). After the housing is installed, you can begin connecting groups of electricity consumers, input cables and electricity meters.

Assembly instructions

The electrical panel includes an input circuit breaker, an electric meter (if necessary), an RCD, standard circuit breakers, neutral and grounding busbars. The DIN rail serves as the basis for installing the machines.

After installing the rail, assemble the shield in this order:

input machine;
universal machines;
zero bar;
grounding strip.

The input circuit breaker must be three-pole for three-phase current, two-pole for single-phase, similar to an RCD (residual current device) and an electric meter. Connections are secured using factory-made “combs” or homemade structures made of copper wire.

Important to remember! The wiring must be made of the same material and connected uniformly.

For reference! Blue indicates common zero, red indicates phase, yellow-green indicates grounding.

When installing an electric meter, you should limit yourself to connecting wires to it, and then call a specialist who will make the final connection. After installation, be sure to pay attention to whether the smell of burnt wiring spreads throughout the room.

What else do you need to know?

Here are a few more requirements and tips for beginners and experienced electricians:

1) When installing an apartment panel, you should always remember safety precautions and perform work only on a de-energized network.

2) Do not skimp on units.

3) Entrust the calculations of the parameters of the RCD, input and other circuit breakers, the cross-section and material of the wires to professionals.

4) After six months of operation, the contacts must be broached.

5) Install a box with a child safety lock.

6) Remember the need to seal the meter.

7) Label the machines.

8) Maintain uniformity in connections, materials, markings and documentation.

Adequately assess your capabilities and do not hesitate to ask for help. The safety of living in a room directly depends on the proper functioning of the electrical wiring.

Having received permission to connect to a three-phase network, it is worth thinking about how to ensure that the 380 V panel assembly is reliable, efficient and easy to maintain. In principle, provided that automatic machines are installed, this is not difficult, but expensive. If the budget is limited, you will have to come up with a load distribution scheme. And this is not easy, since it is necessary to comply with the logic of the distribution of lines and not overload the phases.

The first and most important thing to understand is that three-phase and single-phase equipment can be connected to a 380 V network. The difference is that three-phase is connected immediately to three phases and a neutral, and single-phase is connected to one of the phases and neutral. This connection - to one of the phases and the neutral - gives 220 V.

Do not think that the presence of three-phase equipment is mandatory. Not at all. Simply, when powerful equipment is connected to three phases, its load is distributed equally between all three phases. This means that you can use wires of a smaller cross-section and machines of lower ratings (but the wires are four/five wires, and the machine is three or four pole).

The peculiarity of the 380 V power supply is that there are three phases and the power allocated to you is divided equally into all three phases. If you are allocated 18 kW, each phase should have 6 kW. In this case, a three-pole or four-pole circuit breaker is installed, which will turn off the power supply completely if the load on one of the phases is exceeded. The machine has some time delay, but it is very small, so you will have to carefully calculate the distribution of the load across the phases, otherwise the light will constantly turn off due to overloads. This is the so-called “phase imbalance”, which interferes with normal life.

Assembly diagrams for three-phase electrical panels

The assembly of a 380 V switchboard can be done according to different schemes. There are many options, it is important to choose the most logical one, not too expensive. But the most important thing is that the electricity in your house or apartment is safe. Therefore, in addition to circuit breakers that protect networks from overload, they also install RCDs (residual current devices), which protect people from electric shock. The standards do not require the installation of an RCD for lighting in dry rooms, but in the case of a three-phase connection to an apartment or house, this is not an option, since then all the lighting will have to be connected to one machine. When it is triggered, everything will be in darkness. So you will have to turn on the lighting through an RCD, which only increases the reliability of the power supply system of the house/apartment (although it increases the price).

A couple, automatic + RCD, can replace . This makes the circuit simpler, more reliable, easier to read and change (provided it is connected via a cross-module). It also saves space in the shield, which is also important. But such a scheme costs three times more, since there are many differentials, and they cost more than a pair of automatic + RCD.

The need for a cross-module for three-phase switchboards

To make the assembly of the 380 V switchboard easier and to make it possible to reconnect one or more circuit breakers to another phase, a three-phase cross-module is installed after the meter. This is a device that has three inputs - for three phases, and several outputs with the same phases (the number of outputs depends on the model).

Connection to the desired phase through the cross-module occurs as follows: the terminated conductor is inserted into the socket and secured with a clamping screw. Switching to another phase is simple: unscrew the screw, pull out the wire, connect it to a free terminal on the other phase. If there is a cross-module, the entire connection is more logical, it is easy for a non-professional to understand, and it is easier to make changes. The cost of this equipment is not that high, but the benefits are many. It’s better to install it, even though the equipment is not on the list of required ones.

Assembly of a 380 V switchboard only on automatic machines

As has already been said more than once, if each group or individual powerful consumer has its own difavtomat installed, the whole task is to correctly distribute them between the phases so that there is no phase imbalance. An example of such a shield for an apartment is shown in the figure below.

With this scheme everything is clear. The first machine worked - there was a problem with the lighting in the hall, the fourth one worked - there was a problem with the sockets in the kitchen. Everything is clear and understandable. But such a scheme for a private house turns out to be too expensive, so you have to get smart, dividing all the lines into groups.

With two RCDs

You can divide the entire load into two groups and install two powerful three-phase RCDs at the input. In this case, there should be two buses near each group: neutral and ground. After each RCD, its own cross-module is installed, to which the phases are connected and the line circuit breakers are connected to the outputs.

The advantages of this scheme: the price is not too high, the cabinet is relatively small in size, it is easy to switch one or two consumers within the same group if necessary.

An example of the layout of a 380 V electrical panel with two RCDs

There are more disadvantages:

Three-phase RCDs are expensive. In case of failure, the costs will be significant.
To transfer consumers from one group to another, you will have to pull the wires - for the uninitiated this is difficult.
When one of the machines is triggered, half of the consumers remain de-energized. Since many lines are connected to each RCD, the process of finding the culprit of the trip is lengthy, because you will have to first turn off everything, then gradually add one at a time. The line on which the protection will work again will be damaged.
Additional buses have appeared, you need to label them, which of them go to the first group, which to the second, and not to confuse them during installation. To prevent the wires of different buses from getting mixed up during maintenance, it is better to hang a tag on each one.
It is impossible to assemble groups so that on one RCD there are only “wet” rooms, on the other only “dry” ones. And in general, in order to more or less even out the load, you will have to rack your brains.

In general, the scheme is not the best precisely because when the protection is triggered, half the load is turned off. Inconvenient. Yes, and the ratings of the RCDs must be large, and even three or four phase, which in the regions can be problematic and also comes at a cost. So assembling a 380 V switchboard according to this scheme is only possible in a country house, for example.

By the way, in order to have fewer wires in the shield, it is better to feed neutral wires through a special mounting bus. In stores you can even find tires painted blue. If there are none, take nail polish and paint it yourself. To connect the neutral through the bus, you need to bite out the teeth in it one at a time and connect the wire from the bus to it. All that remains is to insert the teeth into the required grooves and tighten the clamping screws. With this connection of the neutral to the circuit breakers, there is only one wire, and the quality of the connection is excellent.

With RCD on each phase

Another option for a three-phase electrical panel diagram is one RCD for each phase. In this case, we take two-pole RCDs, a cross module is placed after each RCD, and the load that is distributed to each of the phases is connected to its outputs.

If you look at the diagram of a three-phase shield assembled according to this principle, you can see that there are already three grounding and neutral buses - for each of the RCDs. If you connect the neutral using conductors, there will be confusion. The advantages of this scheme include the presence of three groups, so that the distribution of consumers can be made more logical. When one of the RCDs is triggered, most of the consumers remain in operation, which is also good.

But still, it is not always possible to distribute the load so that the wet rooms are separate and there is no phase imbalance. And searching for damage is quite difficult, since there are many consumers. To make it easier to understand, you can install your own RCDs on the “dangerous” lines. In the example above, this was done on the power line to.

It will be easier to assemble a three-phase electrical panel with your own hands according to this diagram if each of the groups is assembled on one DIN rail. Place an RCD on it, then arrange the machines in series. When triggered, it will be clearly visible where and in which lines to look for the problem (if the machines are signed).

The number of group RCDs is more than three

In large houses and cottages it is necessary to lay a large number of lines. If you install only three RCDs, each of them will have a dozen or more lines - you will be tortured to look for damage when disconnecting. And there is no way to separately plant wet areas, streets, etc. The solution in this case is to create multi-level protection, install personal RCDs after group RCDs in order to separate wet and dry rooms. Not a bad option, but there is another one: make groups more than three. For example, two in each phase or more. Or not on every one. Depends on the number of consumers, how you split the load, how much money you are willing to invest in an electrical distribution cabinet. Because the amount of equipment grows, the size of the required cabinet increases, and with the size the cost of the “box” itself increases. You also need to add the cost of din rails, tires, etc.

Another drawback: it is problematic to install such a quantity of equipment and then maintain it. There are a lot of wires. To reduce the chance of not getting “confused”, sign each transaction, and there’s nothing to say about automatic devices and RCDs. Write down which phase it is connected to, develop a numbering system. For example, if three RCDs are connected to the first phase, write L1-1 on the first, L1-2 on the second, L1-3 on the third. Sign other groups in the same way.

Despite all the complexity of these circuits, we get a more “individual” system. When one RCD trips, it is easy to look for damage, since there are not many lines connected. Another plus is that only a small part of the devices is turned off, making it easier to provide electricity to rooms that are temporarily turned off.

But assembling a 380 V shield according to this principle can be almost as expensive as when using automatic machines. But that scheme is generally unique in its simplicity and mobility. If the difference is small, it is better to assemble a three-phase electrical panel using differential circuit breakers. It will be much easier to maintain; it will be possible to easily change the phase distribution, add new lines, etc.

Load distribution algorithm across three phases

As already mentioned, it is necessary to collect the entire single-phase load and distribute it evenly between the phases. Moreover, the trick is to select everything so that powerful devices connected to one phase do not cause an overload shutdown. This is possible if the total power of the operating devices is no more than the nominal value, or if these devices do not operate simultaneously.

General principles of load grouping for automatic machines

The most reliable and easy-to-maintain scheme is when for each group of consumers or powerful device there is a separate machine, and together with it an RCD. But such a scheme, firstly, is expensive, and secondly, it simply requires a huge cabinet, which is also not cheap. Therefore, they try to connect several lines to one machine, but they must be combined following a certain logic. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to figure out what’s what when the machine is triggered. You should adhere to the following rules:

To make it easier to form groups, make a list of lines and the load on them. The room, line name and power of the connected load must be indicated. Looking at this table, following the rules described above, you assemble groups. At the same time, you must also ensure that the load is distributed more or less evenly.

Checking groups

After you have sketched out the groups on paper, check them. Sit down and think about what will happen if each of the machines works, how catastrophic the consequences will be for each room.

For example, if in a two-story cottage you connect all the sockets of the first floor and the lighting of the second to one machine, and the lighting of the first, the sockets of the second to another, and the equipment to the third, then when any of the machines is triggered the situation will be terrible.

This is how we lose situations with each machine being turned off. It is advisable that there be either working sockets in the room or that they be in the adjacent one. Then, if necessary, it will be possible to connect equipment and lighting.

Summer cottage construction has recently become very popular. Many homeowners try to do as much work as possible on the construction, finishing and connecting to communications of their cottage themselves.

This also applies to the installation of electrical wiring in all buildings of the summer cottage.

Electrifying a home is impossible without installing an electrical panel. A metering device is mounted on it - an electric meter, an RCD (residual current device) and electrical circuit breakers in the required quantity.

Installation Requirements

All requirements related to the installation of distribution panels are specified in the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules), Chapter 7.1. Let's look at the main ones.

The location for installing the switchboard should be chosen away from heating boilers, gas stoves or cylinders, stoves, and flammable objects.
The room where the electrical panel is located must be well ventilated, preferably naturally.
The location where the switchboard is installed should be well lit with natural light. This is important for maintaining the structure.
There must be constant free access to the shield. Therefore, its installation in storerooms and other utility rooms is not allowed.

The number of distribution cabinets depends on the size of the building and the number of light bulbs, electrical outlets and other electrical points. This number affects the layout and complexity of wiring throughout the building. For a country house with an area of up to 200 m2, one panel is enough.

What a do-it-yourself outdoor electrical panel for a dacha looks like, look at the photo:

Elements installed on the panel

The electrical panel is installed at the entrance to the house. It can be either internal or overhead. It is easier to install the invoice, so for a country house where it will be located in any utility room, this design is recommended.

No special preparation is required to install an outdoor switch cabinet. It just needs to be secured to the wall with dowel nails. Also, the external electrical cabinet can be mounted outdoors, for example, on a pole.

Some tips for choosing an electrical cabinet:

Switchgear components

As a rule, the following elements are used for electrical distribution panels for 220 V voltage and their operation in small country houses:

Electricity meter
RCD (Residual current device)
Zero bus
Grounding bus
Slot machines:
1. Introductory – 30-60 A
2. Automatic machines for a group of sockets designed for high-current electrical appliances - 25 A
3. Automatic machines for a group of sockets designed for low-current household devices and medium-power devices - 16 A
4. Automatic devices for lighting devices – 10 A.

As can be seen from this list, before calculating the number of distribution board modules, you should find out how many groups of energy consumers are at the site, and what is the total power consumption for each group.

Assembly diagram

This is a very responsible occupation that requires strict adherence to safety precautions.

The electrical panel is assembled in the following order:

A sample diagram for assembling an electrical panel in a country house is shown in this photo:

Connection

First of all, you need to connect the input automatic fuse. If it is single-pole, connect the phase. If it is bipolar, connect both phase and neutral.

For the convenience of further installation of the phase on the introductory package, it is better to start from the bottom.

Combine all RCDs and packages with comb buses or jumpers. The jumper wire must have the same cross-section as the input wire.
Connect the outgoing electrical wires to the machines.

Zero (N) always goes to machines and RCDs from the zero bus. Phase (L) – from the input cable through jumpers or a “comb”.

To avoid confusion during installation and connection, select neutral, phase and ground wires in insulation of different colors. Most often it happens:

Zero N – blue
Phase L – red
PE grounding – yellow with green dotted line

Make sure the connections are secure and carefully tighten the bolts on the fuses and busbars.

Connect the electric meter in accordance with the diagram attached to it.
Apply voltage to the shield
Using a multimeter, check for voltage on the outgoing lines and packets
Mark each machine in accordance with the switching diagram
If the device body is not transparent, a copy of the diagram should be attached to the electrical cabinet door from the inside. In addition to complying with energy supervision requirements, this will significantly facilitate preventive and repair work on the switchboard.

IMPORTANT! After checking the load on the outgoing lines, do not forget to turn off the input automatic fuse to safely complete the work.

Installing an electrical panel in a household is not a difficult task. It is quite possible to do it with your own hands. The main thing is to follow safety rules, carefully follow all instructions and not skimp on consumables.

Make sure that the assembly of your electrical distribution panel meets all the requirements of the PUE. Otherwise, energy supervision may not allow you to connect your dacha to the power grid or indicate any violations punishable by a fine.

When assembling, check the rigidity of each element. Do not allow unnecessary crossings of wires, and even more so, their improper twisting. Correct assembly of the switchboard functionality guarantees safe connection and trouble-free operation of your household appliances under various types of loads.

Scrupulousness and adherence to standards are the key to the fire safety of your home, and therefore your comfort and peace of mind.

In conclusion, we invite you to watch a video on how to install and assemble an outdoor electrical panel for your dacha yourself:

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How to assemble and install an electrical panel in a private house with your own hands, requirements and necessary elements

If you need to assemble and connect an electrical panel in a private home, but there is no desire or opportunity to seek the help of an electrical installation specialist, we will tell you how to do it correctly.

Doing all the work with your own hands is not easy, and even dangerous if you do not follow the rules for working with electricity. We will try to clarify all questions for you and point out pitfalls.

Need to know before assembly

The design implies the presence of mechanisms to protect people and wiring from overload or short circuit, as well as a meter. The cable goes from the power line to the house to the electrical panel and all the electrical groups of the house are routed from it.

In fact, the correct name for this device is an input distribution device (IDU). But according to the law, you must divide this unit into two and one of them will be input, and the second distribution.

The input device is usually installed on an electrical pole and is an electrical panel with a window in it for easy reading. Inside there is an electricity meter, a general RCD, an input circuit breaker, arresters (they are rarely installed), and elements for overvoltage protection. This design should be installed at a height of no more than 2 meters.

A cable is led from the input panel to the distribution installation. In private homes, the use of devices and protective shutdown devices is implied. To save space in the switchboard, differential devices are installed, which include a circuit breaker and an RCD.

The material from which the house is made, as well as where the shield itself is located, determines which of its options will be chosen.

Metal mounted electrical panels are used in wooden houses, and in stone houses, where it is drier, you can install a plastic box or a built-in panel.

The place for installing one single-phase circuit breaker is called a module. Each panel has a different number of modules, so you need to know which and how many devices will be installed in the panel.

The distribution block should be installed in a safe place, preferably in a separate nook.

Preparing to install the distribution board

Must be done before assembly:

Select the electrical panel according to the type of wiring.
Calculate the total power load of each group.
Calculate the load on each group based on the power of each device.
Consider the places where RCD operation is required.

It is better to have spare places for additional RCDs; in a private house this may come in handy.

Full list of equipment:

Electrical panel
Single-tariff electric meter with accuracy class from 2.
Input machine 32 A.
Two-pole 16 A, 2 pieces.
Single-pole backup, 2 pieces.

All materials for assembly can cost you from 2000 rubles.

When buying an electrical panel, do not save money, since a cheap panel will most likely have to be redone and re-equipped, and poor plastic will become brittle over time. In addition, in the event of a fire, inexpensive shields do not comply with all safety measures.

Electrical panel connection diagrams for 220V and 380V

For clarity, you should create a diagram according to which the shield will be assembled.

An example of a wiring diagram for an incoming electrical panel in a private house for 220V:

In private houses, 380V distribution boards are often installed for electrical wiring; a 4 or 5-core cable is supplied to such a board: two or three phases, zero and ground.

The assembly diagram for a 380 V electrical distribution panel for a private house will be as follows:

Diagram of how to properly install an electrical panel in a wooden private house:

Installation of a shield for a suburban building

Using self-tapping screws, we install the Din rails on which all the equipment will be attached. They must be 35 mm in size.
We begin to install the equipment according to a pre-made diagram and calculations, install automatic machines, RCDs and two separate buses to which ground and zero are connected, and install a metering device.
We connect the phase wires and connect the machines using a special bus. According to the general rules for connecting such devices, the input should be at the top and the output at the bottom.
We install protective covers and sign all machines for convenience.
Then we connect them with a special comb or make jumpers from wire. If you are going to use a comb, then remember that the cross-section of its core must be at least 10 mm/sq.
We run wires from consumers into the machines.

Find out from this video how to properly assemble a 220 V electrical panel in a private house:

From the following video you will learn how to make a three-phase 380 V electrical panel in a private house:

After you have assembled the shield, without closing it, turn it on for a few hours, and then check the temperature of all elements.

Do not allow the insulation to melt, otherwise a short circuit will occur in the future.

With a careful sequential approach and compliance with electrical safety rules, anyone can assemble an ASU on their own, although they will have to tinker. Having completed the installation, all you have to do is wait for representatives of the electrical network company, who will check your circuit and arrange the connection.

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elektrik24.net

We assemble the shield in the apartment and house ourselves

An electrical panel in a private house, country house, or apartment performs a dual function: it provides input and distribution of electricity and creates safe operating conditions. If you want to understand a difficult issue, you can assemble the electrical panel yourself. Representatives of the electricity supply organization must install the input machine and the meter, but then, after the meter, you can assemble the circuit yourself (although they don’t like to lose money). True, before putting the house into operation, you will need to invite them so that they can be present during the start-up, check everything and measure the ground loop. All of these are paid services, but they cost much less than a complete panel assembly. If you do everything correctly and according to the standards, it will turn out even better on your own: after all, you are doing it for yourself.

What should be in the shield

Both in an apartment and in a private house there are several options for the layout of the shield. This mainly concerns the installation location of the input machine and the counter. In a private house, the meter can be placed on a pole, and the machine can be placed on the wall of the house, almost under the roof. Sometimes a meter is installed in a house, but this is if it was built a couple of decades ago. Recently, metering devices are installed in the house extremely rarely, although there are no regulations or instructions on this matter. If the meter is located indoors, it can be placed in a panel; then when choosing a panel model, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the meter.

Read about how to connect electricity from a pole to a house here.

In some apartment buildings, meters are located in boxes on the staircases. In this case, the cabinet is needed only for RCDs and automatic machines. In other houses it is located in the apartment. When upgrading the electrical network, you will have to buy a cabinet so that the meter can fit in there, too, or buy a separate box for the meter with an input machine.

A simple electrical circuit diagram for a small house or apartment

Safety is very important when designing a power supply. First of all, it is provided for people: with the help of an RCD - a residual current device (number 3 in the photo), which is installed immediately after the meter. This device is triggered if the leakage current exceeds a threshold value (there is a short circuit to ground or someone sticks their fingers into the socket). This device breaks the circuit, minimizing the possibility of electric shock. From the RCD, the phase is supplied to the inputs of the machines, which are also triggered when the load is exceeded or when there is a short circuit in the circuit, but each in its own section.

Secondly, it is necessary to ensure the normal operation of household appliances and electrical appliances. Modern complex technology is controlled by microprocessors. They require stable power to function properly. Having observed the voltage in our network for some time, it cannot be called stable: it varies from 150-160 V to 280 V. Imported equipment cannot withstand such a variation. Therefore, it is better to turn on at least some groups of automatic machines that supply power to complex equipment through a stabilizer. Yes, it costs a lot. But during voltage surges, the control boards are the first to “fly”. They are not repaired here, but simply replaced. The cost of such a replacement is about half the cost of the device (more or less depends on the type of device). It's hardly cheaper. When assembling the electrical panel with your own hands, or just planning it for now, remember this.

One example of a panel layout for a small circuit - for 6 machines

The stabilizer is installed on one or several groups and is turned on after the RCD and before the group circuit breakers. Since this is a rather large device, it won’t be possible to install it in a panel, but you can install it next to it.

Also, two buses are installed in the panel: grounding and grounding. All grounding wires from instruments and devices are connected to the grounding bus. The wire comes to the “zero” bus from the RCD and is fed to the corresponding inputs of the machines. Zero is usually designated by the letter N; when wiring, it is customary to use a blue wire. For grounding - white or yellow-green, the phase is carried out with a red or brown wire.

One of the options for an assembled small shield

When assembling an electrical panel yourself, you will need to purchase the cabinet itself, as well as rails (called DIN rails or DIN rails) on which circuit breakers, RCDs and switches are attached. When installing the slats, check with a level that they are horizontal: there will be no problems with fastening the machines.

One of the options for DIN rails in the panel housing

All machines must be connected to each other. This can be done using conductors - connecting their inputs in series, or using a ready-made connecting comb. A comb is more reliable, although it costs more, but if you take into account the time you will spend connecting all the machines, it is unlikely that a few tens of rubles are of such fundamental importance.

Connecting comb for circuit breakers in an electrical panel: will speed up the self-assembly process

Scheme for several groups

Power supply schemes are not always simple: groups of consumers are divided into floors, outbuildings, lighting for the garage, basement, yard and local area are installed separately. If there are a large number of consumers, in addition to the general RCD after the meter, they install the same devices, only of lower power, for each group. Separately, with the obligatory installation of a personal protective device, the power supply to the bathroom is removed: this is one of the most dangerous rooms in a house or apartment.

It is very advisable to install protective devices on each of the inputs that go to powerful household appliances (more than 2.5 kW, and even a hair dryer can have such power). Together with a stabilizer, they will create normal conditions for the operation of electronics.

Also not the most complex circuit, but with a higher degree of protection - more RCDs

In general, when designing the exact design, you will have to find a compromise: make the system safe without spending too much money. It is better to buy equipment from trusted companies, but it costs a lot. But power grids are not an area where you can save money.

Read how to connect an electric hob here, and about connecting an electric water heater (storage or instantaneous) read this article.

Types and sizes of electrical panels

We will talk about cabinets/drawers for installing automatic machines and other electrical equipment, and their varieties. Depending on the type of installation, electrical panels are available for outdoor and indoor installations. The box for outdoor installation is attached to the wall with dowels. If the walls are flammable, an insulating material that does not conduct current is placed underneath it. When mounted, the external electrical panel protrudes above the wall surface by about 12-18 cm. This must be taken into account when choosing its installation location: for ease of maintenance, the panel is mounted so that all its parts are approximately at eye level. This is convenient when working, but can pose a risk of injury (sharp corners) if the location for the cabinet is poorly chosen. The best option is behind the door or closer to the corner: so that there is no possibility of hitting your head.

Electrical panel housing for outdoor installation

A panel for hidden installation requires the presence of a niche: it is installed and walled up. The door is flush with the wall surface; it may protrude a few millimeters - depending on the installation and design of the particular cabinet.

The cases are metal, powder-coated, and plastic. Doors are solid or with transparent plastic inserts. Various sizes - elongated, wide, square. In principle, you can find a suitable option for any niche or conditions. One piece of advice: if possible, choose a larger cabinet: it is easier to work in it, this is especially important if you are assembling an electrical panel with your own hands for the first time.

Complete set and installation of a mounted distribution panel

When choosing a building, they often operate on such a concept as the number of seats. This refers to how many single-pole circuit breakers (12 mm thick) can be installed in a given housing. You have a diagram with all the devices listed on it. You count them taking into account the fact that double-pole ones have double width, add about 20% for the development of the network (suddenly you buy another device and there is nowhere to connect it, or during installation you decide to make two from one group, etc.). And for such a number of “seats”, look for a shield with a suitable geometry.

Installation and connection of elements

All modern automatic devices and RCDs have a unified mounting for a standard mounting rail (DIN rail). On the back they have a plastic stop that snaps onto the bar. Place the device on the rail, hooking it with the recess on the back wall, and press the lower part with your finger. Once clicked, the item is installed. All that remains is to connect it. They do it according to the scheme. The corresponding wires are inserted into the terminals and the contact is pressed with a screwdriver, tightening the screw. There is no need to tighten it too much - you can squeeze the wire.

They operate with the power off, all switches are turned to the “off” position. Try not to handle wires with both hands. Having connected several elements, turn on the power (input switch), then turn on the installed elements one by one, checking them for the absence of a short circuit (short circuit).

Connecting the input machine and RCD

The phase from the input is supplied to the input circuit breaker, from its output it goes to the corresponding input of the RCD (place a jumper with a copper wire of the selected cross-section). In some circuits, the neutral wire from the water is supplied directly to the corresponding input of the RCD, and from its output it goes to the bus. The phase wire from the output of the protective device is connected to the connecting comb of the machines.

In modern circuits, the input circuit breaker is installed with two poles: it must simultaneously disconnect both wires (phase and neutral) in order to completely de-energize the network in the event of a malfunction: this is safer and these are the latest electrical safety requirements. Then the circuit diagram for switching on the RCD looks like in the photo below.

When using a two-pole input circuit breaker

To learn how to install an RCD on a DIN rail, watch the video.

In any circuit, the protective grounding wire is connected to its own bus, where similar conductors from electrical appliances are connected. The presence of grounding is a sign of a secure network and doing so is vital. Literally.

To learn how to properly connect an RCD, watch the video tutorial.

When assembling the panel yourself, please note that the input machine and the meter will be sealed by the energy supply organization. If the meter has a special screw on which a seal is attached, then the input machine does not have such devices. If it is not possible to seal it, you will either be denied entry or the entire shield will be sealed. Therefore, inside the common panel, a box is placed in one or two places (depending on the size and type of machine), and the input machine is mounted in it. This box is sealed upon acceptance.

Individual automatic machines are installed on the rails exactly like an RCD: they are pressed against the rail until it clicks. Depending on the type of machine (one or two poles - wires), the corresponding wires are connected to them. What types of circuit breakers are there, and how devices for single- and three-phase networks differ, see the video; the choice of circuit breaker rating is described here.

After the required number of devices are installed on the mounting rail, their inputs are connected. As they said earlier, this can be done with wire jumpers or a special connecting comb. See the photo to see what the wire connections look like.

Automatic machines in one group are connected by jumpers: the common phase arrives

There are two ways to make jumpers:

Cut the conductors into the required sections, expose their edges and bend them in an arc. Insert two conductors into one terminal, then tighten.
Take a long enough conductor and strip off 1-1.5 cm of insulation every 4-5 cm. Take pliers and bend the exposed conductors so that you get interconnected arcs. Insert these exposed areas into the appropriate sockets and tighten.

They do this, but electricians say the quality of the connection is poor. It is safer to use special tires. Under them on the case there are special connectors (narrow slots, closer to the front edge), into which bus contacts are inserted. These tires are sold by the meter and cut into pieces of the required length using ordinary wire cutters. Having inserted it and installed the supply conductor in the first of the machines, tighten the contacts on all connected devices. Watch the video on how to connect machines in a panel using a bus.

A phase wire is connected to the output of the machines, which goes to the load: to household appliances, to sockets, switches, etc. Actually, the assembly of the shield is completed.

Selecting machines for a house or apartment panel

There are three types of devices used in an electrical panel:

Machine. Turns the power off and on manually, and also triggers (breaks the circuit) in the event of a short circuit in the circuit.
RCD (residual current device). It controls the leakage current that occurs when the insulation breaks down or if someone touches the wires. If one of these situations occurs, the circuit is broken.
Diff. automatic (differential automatic). This is a device that combines two in one housing: it monitors both the presence of short circuit and leakage current.

Differential automatic devices are usually installed instead of a combination - RCD + automatic. This saves space in the panel - it requires one module less. Sometimes this is important: for example, you need to turn on another power line, but there is no space for installation, just like there is no free machine.

A differential automatic machine is installed instead of a combination of an automatic machine and an RCD

In general, two devices are often installed. Firstly, it is cheaper (differential circuit breakers are more expensive), secondly, when one of the protective devices trips, you know exactly what happened and what to look for: a short circuit (if the circuit breaker was turned off) or a leak and possible overcurrent (triggered RCD). You will not find this out when the automatic machine is triggered. Unless you install a special model that has a flag indicating what malfunction the device was triggered by.

Automatic circuit breakers

Circuit breakers are selected according to the current required for consumers of this group. It is calculated simply. Add up the maximum power of all simultaneously connected devices in the group, divide by the network voltage - 220 V, and get the required current power. Take the device rating a little higher, otherwise when all loads are turned on, it will turn off due to overload.

For example, adding up the power of all devices in a group, we got a total value of 6.5 kW (6500 W). Divide by 220 V, we get 6500 W / 220 V = 29.54 A.

The current ratings of the circuit breakers can be as follows: (in A) 6, 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63. The closest larger one to the given value is 32 A. This is what we are looking for.

Types and types of RCD

There are two types of RCDs: electronic and electronic-mechanical. The difference in price for a device with the same parameters is large - electronic-mechanical ones are more expensive. But you need to purchase them for a shield in your house or apartment. There is only one reason: they are more reliable, since they operate regardless of the presence of power, while electronic ones require power to operate.

For example, the situation is this: you are repairing wiring, for example, a socket, and for this purpose you have de-energized the network - turned off the input circuit breaker. In the process, the insulation was damaged somewhere. If an electro-mechanical RCD is installed, it will operate even in the absence of power. You will realize that you did something wrong and will look for the reason. Electronic equipment is inoperative without power, and if you turn on a network with damaged insulation, you may have problems.

To understand which device is in front of you, it is enough to have a small battery and a couple of wires on hand. Battery power is supplied to any pair of RCD contacts. The electro-mechanical one will work, but the electronic one will not. More details about this in the video.

type AC - alternating sinusoidal current;
type A - alternating current + pulsating direct current;
type B - alternating + pulsating direct + rectified current.

It turns out that type B provides the most complete protection, but these devices are very expensive. For a house or apartment panel, type A is quite sufficient, but not AC, which are mainly sold because they are cheaper.

In addition to the type of RCD, it is selected by current. Moreover, according to two parameters: nominal and leakage. A nominal one is one that can pass through the contacts and not destroy (fuse) them. The rated current of the RCD is taken one step higher than the rated current of the machine installed in pair with it. If a machine is needed for 25 A, then take an RCD for 40 A.

In terms of leakage current, everything is even simpler: only two ratings are installed in electrical distribution boards for apartments and houses - 10 mA and 30 mA. 10 mA is placed on a line with one device, for example, a gas boiler, washing machine, etc. as well as in rooms where a high degree of protection is necessary: in a children's room or bathroom. Accordingly, a 30 milliamp RCD is installed in lines that include several consumers (devices) - on sockets in the kitchen and rooms. Such protection is rarely installed on lighting lines: there is no need, except for street lighting or in a garage.

What numbers on the body mean what?

RCDs also have different response delay times. They are of two types:

S - selective - triggers after a certain time after the appearance of the leakage current (quite a long period of time). They are usually placed at the entrance. Then, if an emergency occurs, the device on the damaged line is first turned off. If the leakage current remains, then the “senior” selective RCD will operate - usually this is the one located at the input.
J - also triggers with a delay (protection against random currents), but with a much shorter delay. This type of RCD is placed in groups.

Differential circuit breakers come in the same types as RCDs and are selected in the same way. Only when determining power by current do you immediately consider the load and determine the rating.

For a few explanations on installing a built-in cabinet for a panel and the connection procedure, see the video from a practitioner and generalist.

One important detail that is important for safety. There is a “test” button on the RCD or differential circuit breaker. When it is pressed, a leakage current is artificially created and the device must operate - the switch goes to the “off” position and the line is de-energized. This is how functionality is checked. This must be done at least once a month to be sure of the reliability of the protection. Check all the RCDs in the circuit one by one. This is important.

This is probably all the information you need to assemble an electrical panel with your own hands. You may also need to learn more about how to divide the workload into groups; read about that here.

stroychik.ru

DIY electrical panel for a private home

Do-it-yourself electrical panel for a private village or country house. I’d like to point out right away that the budget for this DIY electrical panel is minimal; a retired neighbor at his dacha asked me to replace the old plugs and the electric meter, which had long since expired, and the use of electric meters with an accuracy class of 2.5 has long been prohibited by law. I had to assemble such a simple electrical panel with my own hands a long time ago. But I hope this article “Do it yourself electrical panel” will help you when assembling your electrical panel.

Attention! If you need to order an electrical panel for your home or apartment. Assembling the electrical panel will be practically free for you. The difference in retail and wholesale prices at which I purchase components from the largest supplier of electrical goods, ETM, is on average 20%, and this is the approximate cost of assembling an electrical panel. Those. At the retail price at ETM you get both the components for the shield and its assembly.

So this is what we had, an ancient electric meter with plugs. Probably many have seen this, and for some it may still work.

The electrical wiring diagram inside the house is single-phase, the simplest, one two-core cable departs from the plugs, respectively, phase and zero, “scattering” to all sockets and lighting inside the house. There was no talk about reconstructing the electrical wiring; it was only necessary to “modernize” the protection of the house by replacing the old plugs with automatic devices in the electrical panel and the old electric meter with an accuracy class of 2.5 with a new one.

Prices and photos of assembled shields

Photo report. Assembly of ABB Mistral IP65 electrical panel for 72 modules

Photo report. Assembling an ABB U61 electrical panel for 72 modules

Photo report. Assembling an ABB Mistral 41 electrical panel for 54 modules

Photo report. Assembling an ABB UK 500 electrical panel for 24 modules

We got the following do-it-yourself electrical panel diagram for a private house:

To assemble an electrical panel with your own hands for a private home, you had to buy:

Single-phase single-tariff electric meter with accuracy class no worse than 2 (requirements for electric meters in terms of commercial metering). How to choose the right electric meter for a house or apartment can be read in the special article “Choosing an electric meter“.
A small plastic electrical panel for installation inside a private house (no more than 12 modules);
32 A input circuit breaker.
Two two-pole circuit breakers for 16 A outgoing lines (one for home wiring, the other for a backup line).
Two single-pole circuit breakers for backup.

The installation of two-pole machines is explained by the fact that the village is located far from the city. The condition of the transformer substation and the 0.4 kV power lines extending from it is far from normal and is practically not serviced by the network company (only accident elimination). Accordingly, there is a high probability that after another accident on a transformer transformer or power line, the phase will become zero, and vice versa - zero will become a phase. With a single-pole input circuit breaker, the zero is not turned off. And if the phase and zero on the transformer substation or power line support are mixed up in some places, we run a great risk of getting under voltage when repairing an outlet or switch, because In the end, we did not turn off the phase. Therefore, if you turn it off automatically, then turn off both phase and zero at the same time. Just don’t think about installing two single-pole circuit breakers as an input circuit breaker, i.e. one for phase and the other for zero.

Experienced electricians may argue that the PUE prohibits the installation of protective devices in the neutral wire:

clause 6.1.36.”Installation of fuses, automatic and non-automatic single-pole switches in neutral working wires in networks with a grounded neutral is prohibited.”

clause 6.2.11.”At the beginning of each group line, including those powered by busbars, protection devices must be installed on all phase conductors. Installation of protection devices in neutral protective conductors is prohibited"

clause 7.1.21.”... In all cases, it is prohibited to have switching contact and non-contact elements in the circuits of PE and PEN conductors.”

In response, we will give another paragraph of the PUE, which allows the installation of an introductory two-pole circuit breaker in the electrical panel of a village house:

clause 1.7.145."It is also allowed to simultaneously disconnect all conductors at the input to electrical installations of individual residential, country and garden houses and similar objects fed by single-phase branches from the overhead line."

And you will agree that you feel more confident when you know that you have completely disconnected from the power supply using a two-pole circuit breaker.

To assemble the electrical panel with your own hands, you need to remove the cover from it, under which there is a DIN rail, which is screwed with self-tapping screws to the back wall of the electrical panel. We will install our machines and electric meter on the DIN rail.

At the top of the electrical panel there are terminals for connecting the neutral wire N, and at the bottom there is space for installing additional grounding terminals (we don’t have a third PE conductor in the house), which you can purchase and install in the electrical panel yourself. But in our case, terminals N and PE are not useful to us. The outgoing machines are two-pole, so we connect the zero directly to the outgoing machine.

Using pliers, I carefully break out the excess plastic “modules” in the electrical panel and straighten the edges with an ordinary stationery knife.

I first install a new electric meter on the DIN rail, then the circuit breakers, according to our single-phase electrical panel diagram for a private house.

In the DIY electrical panel diagram, there is a point that contradicts clause 1.5.36 of the PUE, i.e. According to the rules, you must first install a 32 A input circuit breaker, and then after it an electric meter.

clause 1.5.36." For safe installation and replacement of meters in networks with voltages up to 380 V, it must be possible to turn off the meter by switching devices or fuses installed before it at a distance of no more than 10 m.”

But one of the unspoken requirements (not entirely legal) of any network organization, when making a new connection or replacing an old electric meter, is that the input cable (wire) into the electrical panel be connected directly to the electric meter with your own hands. This is due to the theft of electricity, because If you connect an electric meter after the machine, it becomes possible to connect other machines from the lower contacts of the input machine, “past” the electric meter.

Representatives of the electric network company can find many arguments to refuse connection according to a scheme that does not suit them; they can impose a fine for an old electric meter without a terminal cover and seal, so in our case it is better not to get involved and agree. Although this may cause problems in the future, when replacing the electric meter, you will have to completely disconnect the power line.

In our case, it turns out that the input cable is connected to the electric meter, and from it to the 32 A input circuit breaker, the terminal cover of the electric meter will be sealed by the electric grid company and no one will be able to connect bypassing the electric meter without breaking the seal.

There are options on how to “meet” the requirements of the network organization regarding the theft of electricity and subsequent replacement of the electric meter. To do this, you can install an incoming machine in a sealable box in the electrical panel with your own hands, or have the network organization stick a seal on the contacts of the incoming machine and the terminal cover of the electric meter.

Next, we connect the electric meter and the input circuit breaker with a single-core copper wire with a cross-section of 6 mm2 (the white wire is a phase, and the blue wire, as it should be, is zero). For the existing load, of course, a 2.5 mm2 copper wire with a 16 A input circuit breaker would be enough, but it is better to make the connection with a reserve. How to properly connect a single-phase electric meter can be read in the article “Connection diagram for a single-phase meter.”

From the 32 A input circuit breaker, we connect a 16 A circuit breaker, which directly protects the copper cable inside the house. The cross-section of the copper cable inside the house is 2.5 mm2, and it was possible to install a 20 A circuit breaker on this line, but all household sockets are designed for a current of no more than 16 A.

We make a jumper for phase and zero for a 16 A backup circuit breaker in the electrical panel with our own hands.

We install single-pole circuit breakers (reserve) in the electrical panel with our own hands on a DIN rail.

I pre-connected an input copper cable with a cross-section of 2x6 sq. mm into the electrical panel with my own hands to the electric meter, which will then be connected to a 2x16 SIP wire from a 0.4 kV power line support, using special punctures or “nuts”.

I securely tighten the contacts of the electric meter. I screw the terminal cover of the electric meter and the plastic cover of the electrical panel into place. Later, the terminal cover of the electric meter will be sealed by electricians of the network organization.

I paste printed machine symbols into the electrical panel with my own hands.

I screw the electrical panel with my own hands through special mounting holes in the rear wall using ordinary wood screws onto the wall of the house.

Using a wood drill with a diameter of 22 mm, I drilled a hole to the street for the input cable into the electrical panel with my own hands, which I hid in a corrugation and secured to the wall. It is better, of course, to hang the electrical panel with your own hands, next to the drilled hole for the input cable, but it was impossible to do this without extending the existing cable into the house, and there is no need to do extra twisting.

After replacing the old wires from the power line with a new SIP, the neighbor connected a cable going inside the house into the electrical panel with his own hands to the lower contacts of the Dom machine.

I’ll sketch out how in the future you can connect an additional cable to a two-pole “Reserve” circuit breaker into an electrical panel with your own hands. This will be easy to do; just connect the cable to the lower contacts of the two-pole circuit breaker, as shown in the figure.

If you still need to connect additional cables to the electrical panel with your own hands, and connect them to single-pole circuit breakers, it will be more difficult to do this; for this you will need:

Connect the zero from the lower contact of the 32 A two-pole input circuit breaker with a separately installed zero terminal (blue line);
From the top contact of a two-pole 16 A “Reserve” circuit breaker, connect the phase to the top contact of a single-pole 16 A circuit breaker (red);
We connect one of the wires of the additional cable (red), which will be connected to the electrical panel with our own hands, to the lower contact of a single-pole circuit breaker - this will be a phase;
We connect the second wire of the additional cable (blue) to the electrical panel with our own hands to the zero terminal;

The cost of materials to assemble this electrical panel with your own hands (the electrical panel itself, the electric meter, the machines) was approximately 1,500 rubles. Of course, the materials are of low quality, but in any case, it is much more reliable and safer than old burnt out plugs.

Do-it-yourself floating cottage

Modern circuit breakers are very reliable in operation and have a number of advantages over other devices designed to protect electrical circuits.

They are devices with two contacts and a switching mechanism in a dielectric housing. This is an indispensable element of the electrical panel.

There are several parameters that you need to pay attention to when choosing:

Installation and connection in the distribution board

At the installation stage, it is assumed that the housing has already been assembled and installed, and brought inside. This is followed by the stage of instruments according to the previously developed connection diagram.

The connection of differential circuit breakers in the distribution board is carried out according to the following scheme:

The following diagram shows how to connect circuit breakers in an electrical panel:

At this stage, it is necessary to install two buses - for grounding and neutral wire, an input machine, and the required amount. All installation operations must be carried out only with the power supply turned off.

For starters, it is necessary to install DIN rails inside the shield, they need to be screwed on with self-tapping screws using the perforations of the metal profile. DIN rails are metal strips designed to mount devices and busbars.

Automatic devices, RCDs and grounding bars are equipped with spring latches for installation on a rail. After installation, they allow the devices to be moved freely along the rail.

On the rail you need to install a zero (in the upper part of the shield) and a grounding bus (in the lower part). They are copper plates on a plastic base with clamps for conductors. Only one conductor can be connected to each terminal.

After this, it is necessary to install an input switch, which will power the entire electrical panel. His should be installed in the upper left corner of the case, the input cable should be located nearby if possible. To connect a two-pole input circuit breaker in the electrical panel, you need to connect, for a single-pole circuit breaker - only the phase.

Then you need to do the installation automatic machines for monitoring the power supply of individual premises and large consumers of electricity. Automatic devices are installed on a DIN rail, and the main wiring connected to the panel is connected to them.

Power is connected to the top terminal. The lower terminals are used to connect the phase wires of the power supply of the groups according to the developed diagram. To connect devices to each other, “comb” type busbars should be used.
All neutral wires are connected to the neutral bus, except for those connected using an RCD. has the same connection as a circuit breaker.

The ground is connected to the ground bus using a yellow-green wire. The metal body and door of the electrical panel must also be connected to it. After this, you can apply voltage to the electrical panel and check its functionality using voltage.

Useful video on how to install an electrical panel in an apartment:

To prevent mistakes

Points that you need to pay attention to when installing machines in an electrical panel with your own hands:

To independently select and install circuit breakers in an electrical panel, you need to follow a simple sequence of actions. The main thing in this process is this is compliance with safety measures, as well as all the requirements of GOST and PUE.

You can learn how to properly install an electrical panel and circuit breakers with your own hands by watching this video: