How is the do-it-yourself lining of the balcony with clapboard? Professional advice on lining a balcony with a clapboard with your own hands How to sheathe a balcony with a clapboard

Do-it-yourself lining balcony decoration continues to be popular among our compatriots. The technology, according to experts and those who have already carried out the sheathing on their own, will be within the power of even a beginner. Today we will tell everyone interested what types of lining exist, how to prepare for installation, and describe the process itself.

Initially, clapboard was called boards with a smooth surface, which were used to perform high-quality interior decoration. Now a board of a certain profile has such a name - with a groove, which is located on one side, and a spike on the other. For covering the open areas of our dwellings, lining made of wood is mainly used, less often - made of plastic.

To carry out such work, the following types of natural wood are suitable: cedar, spruce, oak, ash, alder, linden, pine. Pine lining is considered the cheapest, and cedar and oak are considered the most expensive. The only drawback of inexpensive lining is that at elevated temperatures, resin may appear on the surface.

Another wooden building material is classified into 4 quality groups:

1. Lining Premium or Extra is a material of the highest quality, which has no knots and cracks. Accordingly, it is not cheap.
2. Class A allows the presence of a pair of knots on 1500 mm boards.
3. Class B is characterized by the presence of cracks and even resin pockets.
4. Class C is a technical type of material for which the presence of cracks, knots and other damage on the surface is considered normal. It is not recommended for interior decoration.

This material also differs according to the types of profile: there is a "Thorn groove in length", "Thorn groove and chamfer in length", "Softline", "Euro". The pedantic Europeans decided to minimize the amount of waste and fit all the planks to one size. Such material is called eurolining. Lining is a material, the type of connection of which experts characterize as asymmetric.

Eurolining is characterized by ergonomics, and the grooves on it are made by the manufacturer from the back. The grooves play an important role - they do not allow condensate to accumulate, carrying out its withdrawal. Eurolining differs from the usual one in several ways. If the usual spike has a size of 4-5 mm, then the eurolining has 8-9 mm. Therefore, finishing with eurolining is not difficult, even a non-professional can handle it, since it is quite easy to join the boards.

Although the decoration of the balcony with wooden clapboard is chosen more often, some prefer to sheathe the balcony with plastic. So it is customary to call narrow PVC wall panels. They look like wooden planks. The advantages over wooden cladding are the low cost of plastic lining, resistance to excessively high humidity, ease of care for such a surface. The disadvantages include the artificial origin of the material.

When buying a plastic lining, you have the opportunity to choose the size, color and quality. Check that the panels belong to the same lot and are in the same key. The thicker the panel, the better. Internal stiffeners must be even. To check the quality of the product, you can bend the edge. If there is no trace left or it is barely noticeable, you are dealing with a quality product.

Preparing for installation

Before carrying out interior decoration, you should prepare: purchase the required amount of materials, prepare the surface of the walls.

The walls of the loggia are measured (we are interested in parameters such as length and height), after which the total area is calculated. Next, you need to measure window and wooden openings, subtract their area from the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. The result will be a clean area intended for subsequent sheathing.

It is necessary to prepare wooden bars measuring 60 by 40 and 60 by 15 mm. A larger beam is for the main crate, which will hold the vapor barrier, that is, there will be a layer of insulating material between the beams. A smaller beam will be needed for the surface, which will hold another layer of vapor barrier.

You will definitely need to purchase a heater having a thickness of 40 mm, a special tool to prevent the formation of mold and mildew, a single-layer vapor-permeable and superdiffusion membrane, and a 20 mm thick organ board for the window sill. It is advised to decorate the slopes with a planed board with a thickness of 12 - 15 mm. For insulation, it is customary to use foam, but stone wool is also suitable.

If a plastic material is chosen, in addition to the lining itself, moldings will also be needed. Their number will correspond to the number of corner joints on the balcony. Don't forget to get short self-tapping screws with wide caps. With their help, the panels will be fastened to the crate.

Prepare the following tools - a pervotator or an impact drill, a screwdriver, a hammer and a doboynik, a mallet, a hacksaw and a brush. You can not do without a level, tape measure, pencil or marker. You will need consumables - liquid nails, nails and fastening clamps for lining, dowels and self-tapping screws 6 by 60 mm in size.

Preparing the walls involves checking them for damage. If they are, it is necessary to repair and wait for drying.

It is important to check whether the walls are even. This is done with a level. Irregularities with a depth of more than 10 mm are subject to alignment.

The walls of the loggia should be treated with impregnation, which in the future will prevent the appearance of mold and fungus. Alternatively, some use PVA processing with putty.

How to decorate a balcony

Finishing the loggia with clapboard is carried out in several approaches:

• The first step is the creation of the crate, the insulation and vapor barrier of the balcony is carried out.
• The second stage involves cladding with planks of your chosen material.

Be sure to apply markings - with a pencil or marker. For diagonal and horizontal lining, the planks should always be installed in a vertical position. For planks located vertically, the battens of the crate must be placed strictly in a horizontal position. In this case, the step required for the slats is normally 50 - 70 cm. The first and last should be installed at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge.

After marking, cut the bars and, attaching them to the wall, drill holes for fasteners - the first and last should be 5 cm from the edges. The bars are securely fastened with dowels. To install a superdiffusion membrane, you will need liquid nails that have proven themselves well when performing this type of work. Further, using self-tapping screws, the crate bars are attached. When arranging the crate, the distance between the rails should be 0.5 - 0.6 mm. Their thickness should be sufficient to place a heater in the formed cavities. When installing wooden lining, a layer of insulation between the slats is required. It will reduce temperature fluctuations and reduce the negative impact of external factors on wood. A waterproofing film should be filled over the insulation.

The next step after the manufacture of the frame will be sheathing. You choose how to fix the planks - vertically, horizontally or diagonally. At the planks, a spike is necessarily cut off and, with the help of clamps, they are attached to the surface of the wall, or nails driven straight or obliquely, or fixed through with a plug.

The easiest method is considered to be fastening with clamps. To fasten the clamp, you should drive a few nails into the first bar - into the upper and lower bars of your crate. Nails do not need to be driven into the wall to the end. Clamps should be wound in such a way that they simply fix the bar in the desired position. The nails on which it was held before must be removed. The next panel with a spike, according to the rules, should go into the groove of the previous one and press firmly. The mallet acts as a tool that will need to finish off the bar. Next is fastening with clamps. Hats are sunk with a powerful finisher. In order for the closing bar to fit freely, it will need to be cut.

After the wall under the windows, high walls should be sheathed. The work is carried out in the same way as described above.

After installing the slats, it is necessary to process the window sills. To do this, the board is cut, and the base is foamed. They lead her under the window. You should leave the board under the load, which is about 10 kg. Next is the installation of the plinth on the ceiling and floor. The corners will be hidden by moldings.

Wood remains one of the most sought-after finishing materials. In particular, the decoration of the balcony with eurolining is very popular, since this material is easy to install and at the same time allows you to provide an attractive appearance of the room with the atmosphere of a country house. The only thing, before proceeding with the installation of eurolining, be sure to familiarize yourself with the nuances of this work, which I will discuss below.

A few words about eurolining

Eurolining, as you might guess, is an improved version of ordinary lining. In particular, it is distinguished by the following nuances:

• spike length increased to 8 mm(the standard is 4 mm) - this is perhaps one of the main differences between eurolining and ordinary lining. The enlarged spike provides a stronger connection. In addition, the possibility of gaps as a result of a difference in the level of humidity and temperature in the room is excluded;
• the presence of two channels on the back side- the latter are designed to ensure ventilation of the space under the lining in order to exclude the occurrence.

Besides, eurolining is subject to more stringent quality requirements and, in particular, its geometry. Thanks to this, the surface sheathed with eurolining looks more attractive. Otherwise, the materials are identical, respectively, the method of their installation is also the same.

Finishing technology

So, we got acquainted with the features of the material, now we will consider how to sheathe the balcony itself with eurolining. First of all, I note that this procedure includes several stages:

Each of these stages has its own nuances, which I will discuss below.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, as in any other construction business, it is necessary to prepare materials and tools. In this case, you will need:

• wooden slats with a section of 20 x 40 or 25 x 50 mm;
• antiseptic primer;
• protective impregnation for wood;
• self-tapping screws and dowel-nails;
• wood saw;
• jigsaw;
• electric drill;
• a hammer;
• tape measure and pencil.

If you want to insulate the balcony, then you will additionally need a vapor barrier film, as well as the insulation itself. As the latter, you can use mineral mats, penofol, expanded polystyrene, etc. On our portal you can find detailed information about what types of insulation can be used on the balcony.

Training

First of all, you need to prepare a balcony for eurolining. This is done as follows:

1. first, free the balcony from all items so that they do not interfere with work. In addition, dismantle all elements on the walls and ceiling. It can be shelves, etc.;
2. if there are crumbling and flaking areas with an old finish on the surface, they must be dismantled;
3. then the surface must be treated with an antiseptic primer so that mold does not form on the wall or ceiling. The liquid is applied in a thin layer with a paint brush or roller. Moreover, to achieve the maximum effect, the surface should be treated twice.

This completes the process of preparing the balcony.

Frame installation

Before sheathing a balcony with eurolining, it is necessary to install the frame. Below we consider the most complex version of its installation, i.e. with insulation and vapor barrier.

So, the work is performed in the following sequence:

1. First of all, you need to decide on the location of the lining on the wall. As a rule, lining is placed vertically. However, if the balcony is small and narrow, it is better to give preference to a horizontal arrangement;
2. then the installation of wooden planks of the frame is carried out. It should be noted that the cross section of the slats must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. If, for example, the thickness of the insulation is 50 mm, then, accordingly, the bar should also have a thickness of 50 mm.
   If the slats are thinner, bars of the required thickness can be placed under them.
   For mounting the planks, it is best to use anchor bolts or dowel-nails. Moreover, it is not necessary to tighten them during the installation process, so that you can subsequently adjust the position of the frame in terms of level and, if necessary, insert wedges between the wall and the rails.

Particular attention should be paid to the location of the rails - they should be perpendicular to the lining and in increments equal to the width of the insulation, but not more than 50 cm. To increase the strength of the structure, you can also place spacer bars in increments of about a meter;

Another important point is the vapor barrier, which should be fixed under the bars.

1. after fixing the frame, it is necessary to lay the insulation between the slats. Fill the entire space so that there are no gaps on the surface.

Before proceeding with the installation of the frame with your own hands, treat all the rails with a protective impregnation for wood to prevent them from rotting.

This completes the frame mounting process.

Installation of lining

Sheathing a balcony with eurolining can be done using ordinary self-tapping screws or special fasteners - kleimers. It is better, of course, to give preference to the second option, since such a mount is easier to perform and at the same time it turns out to be hidden, respectively, the surface will look more attractive.

Buying clampers will not affect your budget, since their price is about 40 rubles per package, which contains 100 fasteners. Therefore, we will consider this method of installation below.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Get started by preparing your boards. To do this, measure the balcony, then mark the boards and cut them with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
   In addition, you need to mark the location of electrical appliances and cut holes of the required diameter with an electric jigsaw, having previously drilled holes of small diameter for sawing a jigsaw;
2. now you can start installing eurolining from one of the corners. It is advisable to carry out this work with an assistant so that one person can hold the lining in a leveled position, and the second at that time screwed the screws into the spike to fix the board on the frame. The spike should be facing the corner.
   So that the distillation does not crack, before screwing in the screws, be sure to drill holes of the appropriate diameter for them;

1. after that, you need to put the kleimers on the bottom shelf of the groove so that they go all the way, and then fix them on the frame rails with self-tapping screws or even nails;
2. now you need to bring the crest of the next board into the groove of the installed eurolining. Sometimes the comb fits tightly into the grooves, in which case the board must be hammered with a special mallet or with an ordinary hammer through a wooden block.

From the side of the groove, the second board is also attached to the crate with clamps, the only thing before doing this, put a level on the end and make sure that the board is vertical. According to this principle, the entire surface of the walls is sheathed.

This work is almost completed. By the same principle, the lining of the ceiling with eurolining is carried out.

Before covering the ceiling with clapboard, it is necessary to seal all the cracks. To do this, you can use building sealant.

Protective treatment

To make the finish durable, the lining must be coated with a protective compound. When choosing how to process eurolining on a balcony, you should consider the result that you want to see in the end.

If the task is to give the lining some kind of shade, you can use decorative impregnation. If you plan to cover the surface with varnish, then complex protective impregnation is suitable. It increases the moisture resistance of wood, protects it from negative biological influences, and also makes the material fireproof due to the presence of a flame retardant in the composition.

Instructions for processing eurolining with impregnation looks like this:

1. first of all, you need to treat the surface with a fine sandpaper;
2. then the surface treatment is carried out by impregnation. There is one caveat here - the liquid is not applied like paint or varnish, but rubbed;
3. six hours later, the procedure must be repeated again.

I must say that detailed instructions are usually available on the packaging with the composition. Therefore, before you get started, be sure to read it.

After the surface dries, in order to give the finish a complete look, it is necessary to install additional elements - these are wooden corners and skirting boards. To fasten them, you should use small carnations, which are also called window studs.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to sheathe a balcony with eurolining.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of euro lining as a whole is a fairly simple job. The only thing is that it is necessary to adhere to the technology described above, so that the finish is neat and durable.

For more information, see the video in this article. If you have any difficulties with the installation of the lining or have other questions, ask them in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

When you buy an apartment, the first thought that, as a rule, overshadows the owner is to turn it into a real oasis of beauty, peace and love, a cozy nest, which is so nice to return to after long working days. Indeed, the mood of a person largely depends on what kind of atmosphere it will be possible to create in a living space.

Today, there are many ways of interior decoration of the loggia, each of them has its own specifics and advantages, but now let's talk about only one, the most popular, practical and inexpensive, this method is called very simply: lining the balcony with clapboard.

Wooden or plastic, what to choose?

It seems that what choice can a lining have? Ordinary boards and all .... But no. There are three types of this material:

• wooden;
• eurolining;
• plastic.

And now let's dwell on each type in a little more detail.

Tree from time immemorial was held in high esteem in Russia, and throughout the world. Its qualities of durability, strength, ability to retain heat and keep moisture out have earned it the reputation of one of the main building materials of all time.

But wood is famous not only for its strength: it creates a special atmosphere, warm, favorable: in a house built of wood or in a room decorated with linden, oak or aspen, and it is easier to breathe, because it is an absolutely environmentally friendly material that has a positive effect on physical and psychological health of a person.

Another advantage of wood trim is its low cost. But when working with wood panels, there are a few nuances that should be considered.

• firstly, it is the need to treat the boards with varnish in order to exclude the possibility of mold and destruction of the material;
• secondly, the tree is not flexible, therefore, if you need to create a figured structure in the room, it is better to choose a different finishing method.

Eurolining is good for that that, it has a much larger tongue tongue, which makes it stronger and more reliable: with high humidity in the room, the comb will not come out of the groove, which happens with ordinary lining.

Also, there is protection against condensate: two slots in each plate ensure the durability of the material.

There are two profiles to choose from: standard with straight corners and Soft with rounded corners. Everything is fine in the European version, and even when you ask on the market: “How much does such beauty cost?”, In response, you hear a completely acceptable figure.

Video - finishing with eurolining:

And finally, the third option, plastic lining. It is in no way inferior to the first two in terms of durability.

Another positive property of plastic is the ease of working with it, it takes any shape, creates a beautiful style, so it’s not at all difficult to make high-quality repairs on the loggia with your own hands.

But still, plastic is inferior to wood in the most important thing, in environmental friendliness. But everyone has their own opinion on this.

Video - installation of PVC panels:

Required Tools

So, lining the balcony with clapboard requires the following inventory:

• Reiki 20 by 50 mm. with cross section. To understand how much material you need to purchase, you need to measure the perimeter of the room and its height. The cladding frame is made of horizontal, so-called "guide" rails, which are mounted at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Therefore, we calculate the number of rails we need according to the formula: divide the height of the balcony by 60 and multiply by its perimeter.
• Of course, we need nails for work, they are always needed and the more the better. Here it is advisable to buy nails of two types: small, for fixing skirting boards and with a large hat;
• Dowels need to be purchased.
• You will also need self-tapping screws and screws;
• Sheathing is not done without preliminary treatment of the walls, otherwise they will be covered with mold, so you should also look at the hardware store for PVA putty and varnish, do not forget to buy mounting foam;
• Drill;
• Hacksaw, for working with slats;
• Roulette for measuring work;
• A hammer;
• Axe;
• Pliers;
• Screwdriver;
• And, lastly, a stepladder.

As a rule, most of these tools are always kept at home by the real owner. So you only need to purchase boards and fastening materials, so we can say with confidence that the cost of cladding a balcony with clapboard turns out to be quite small, which makes this method of interior decoration so attractive and popular.

Preparing the framing

Sheathing a balcony with a clapboard with your own hands is a laborious process that should be approached with all responsibility.

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls, to create a reliable protection against mold.

To do this, we process the walls with putty, the lining also needs to be varnished so that it does not deteriorate over time.

Sheathing technology

Sheathing technology consists of three stages:

• creating a framework;
• laying insulation in the frame;
• assembly work.

Video - do-it-yourself balcony cladding:

Step-by-step instructions for wall and ceiling cladding

Step by step instructions will help you understand this process. So:

1. We check the evenness of the walls and ceiling, we correct all the flaws with putty.
2. We cut the rails to the desired length, make marks for every 80 cm and drill holes: fastening with dowels will be made here.
3. We apply the guide rail to the wall at a distance of 1 cm from the floor. Through the holes in the rails, we make marks on the wall and drill 6 cm deep.
4. We fix the rail with self-tapping screws, but not completely, so that you can correct, align if necessary.
5. Having aligned the rails, we drive dowels into them to a depth of 4 cm.
6. We fix the slats: upper and lower, and between them we stretch the cords. The maximum gap between the slats should not exceed 60 cm. Now the remaining boards are installed, they are aligned along the line of the cord. In the same way, a frame is formed around the entire perimeter of the room, as well as on the ceiling.

The frame is ready. We proceed to the next stage, warming.

7. The insulation is tightly laid into the frame and fixed with bars, liquid nails are also used.
8. Finally, we have come to the most important stage, the skin.

There are several ways of sheathing: horizontal, vertical and diagonal installation. Everyone chooses a method based on their aesthetic preferences. In principle, the installation technology in all three options is the same, only the result is different:

1. We measure the desired length of the lining, saw off and fix it in the corner of the wall with self-tapping screws or nails.
2. The first bar is attached to both the groove and the ridge, to all guides.
3. Fasteners are made with nails or clamps, which is used much more often in practice. Below are 4 mounting examples.

Video - :

Approximate cost and prices

Sheathing a balcony with wooden clapboard takes no more than one day. Of course, to make a quality repair, you need basic building skills and, most importantly, patience. But on the other hand, having completed all the work, you can enjoy the fruit of your hands.

The cost of cladding a balcony with clapboard is quite acceptable for any wallet, which is also a positive feature of this type of repair.

Now it remains only to put a sofa and a floor lamp on the balcony, pick up your favorite book and immerse yourself in a state of peace and bliss.

Making a cozy place out of a balcony or loggia is not so difficult. Most often they decide to sheathe the balcony with clapboard. There is a lot of work, but it is not difficult and you can handle everything with your own hands.

What lining to use

Basically, when they talk about lining, they mean wood products. Much less often, this term is also called PVC panels, adding the word "plastic". Probably, the whole point is in a very similar principle of connecting the planks to each other and the method of their installation, and also in the fact that outwardly it looks like long boards with a spike on one side and a groove on the other. When choosing which lining to use for a balcony, they usually proceed from cost, aesthetic or practical considerations.

Sheathing a balcony with clapboard is a way to create comfort, and at the same time warm the room

In some regions, wooden lining is a cheap material, in others it is expensive. So you have to compare the price of plastic and wood yourself. Wood is often preferred because it is natural. This is true, but in order to maintain its attractiveness, it is impregnated with protective compounds, and this is chemistry. Then it is painted or varnished. The compositions, as you understand, are also far from natural.

Based on practical considerations, PVC clapboard sheathing is definitely ahead: it is easy to clean, does not require additional care or processing, and has retained its unchanged appearance for many years. Unless it fades on the sunny side, so it is better to take light colors: on them, the loss of color is almost imperceptible.

Wooden lining is more capricious during operation: before installation, it must be coated with protective impregnations. If you are only going to give it some shade, you can choose an impregnation that will immediately give you the desired color. Then this will be the end of her processing. If you decide to paint or varnish the finish, then you need to do this after installation (but before installation, soak it with antiseptics anyway). During operation, it will periodically be necessary to remove the old coating and re-coat everything: the varnish or paint may crack, the balcony finish will lose its attractiveness. This is such a mess.

Despite all this, when deciding which lining is better for a balcony, wood is preferred. Tastes, of course, are different for everyone, but according to the general opinion, a room sheathed with wood is much more comfortable. As a result, the desire for beauty outweighs practical considerations.

Which is better

Let's talk about wood products. Let's talk about breeds first. The cheapest lining is made of pine and spruce. Despite the relatively low cost, it is durable: coniferous wood contains a large amount of resins, which are antiseptics and preservatives. In regions with hot summers, this can lead to the fact that on the sunny side, in places of intense heating, resin will be released in places. Another disadvantage is soft wood. If you hit it (decently, for example, with a hammer), a dent will remain. If this does not scare you, you can sheathe the balcony with pine or spruce lining: these are all the disadvantages of this type of wood.

There are also expensive varieties of conifers: larch and cedar. They have a much denser wood, are more durable, and resist weather conditions well. But these qualities are absolutely not needed for lining the balcony inside. A more compelling argument is the beautiful color and structure of the wood, as well as a smaller amount of resins. Sheathing with clapboard made of such wood is beautiful and for a long time.

Pleasant to the eye hardwood. Here, choose according to your taste: linden has a slightly pinkish tint, aspen becomes silver-gray, alder has a beautiful pattern, oak is generally unrivaled in terms of decorativeness and reliability, but also at a price.

Profiles and appearance

Now for the technical specifications. Let's start with profiles. On sale there is just lining, but there is eurolining. The main difference is that there is one or more longitudinal grooves on the back of the "euro" variant. They provide air circulation, which prolongs the life of the finish. Also, in theory, lumber with the prefix "euro" has standard sizes and should be produced from high quality wood. In practice, everything is different: both the sizes “float” and the quality is far from always good.

Most Popular Profiles

Profiles, there are a couple of dozen. Different chamfers, "waves" of different sizes and other figured surfaces allow you to get walls that are different in appearance. In the photo above - the most common, usually produced in large quantities.

There are several other types that can be made to order. Such a "custom" batch will cost much more: you will have to reconfigure the equipment.

Varieties and humidity

The grade of lining depends on the number of knots, cracks and color changes that have fallen on the plank. Grade A or "Elite" should not have them at all, or in very small quantities. Grade "B" - no more than 4 knots of brown color and color changes of a small area, grade "C" can have many knots.

The presence of knots does not mean that the wood is bad. The main thing is that they should be brown, not black, and not have signs of destruction. And in general, knotty wood sometimes looks great. All this is a matter of taste and preference.

Here with humidity the situation is much more serious. Buying raw wood lining for interior decoration can be much cheaper, but also much more troublesome. If you nail planks of trim with high humidity, it will gradually dry out, shrinking in size. Slots will appear between the boards, some of them will unscrew or bend. You will have to remove everything, sort it out and mount it again. Moreover, maybe twice: it is difficult to predict when the shrinkage will end. Therefore, for the interior decoration of the balcony with clapboard, it is better to take chamber-drying lumber. Humidity then is not higher than 7-10%, it will no longer “lead” and will not bend: these materials were rejected after drying. That's why the prices are higher.

About the thickness and width of the slats. For interior decoration of premises, you can take a thin board: the conditions of the atmosphere are stable. But the balcony is not quite an interior room, temperature and humidity fluctuations are more serious. Even with good insulation of the balcony. Therefore, the average thickness is suitable - 14-16 mm, but 12 mm can also be used.

The width and thickness of the houses varies widely

The width of the board can be from 60 mm to 150 mm. It takes longer to nail a narrow one, less work from a wide one, but in a small room wide stripes “eat up” the volume. So for cladding a balcony, the optimal lining width is average, about 90-120 mm.

How to sheathe a balcony with a clapboard with your own hands

First of all, you need to decide whether you will insulate the balcony or not, if so, what parts of it and with what material. The structure of the crate and the thickness of the bars used depend on this. The order of work will change slightly - there will be no installation of insulation. All other stages and their sequence will be similar.

Work order - step by step instructions

First, all the old finishes are dismantled, plaster, paint, tiles, which do not hold well, are removed. Anything that is firmly held can be left untouched. For greater reliability, before sheathing the balcony with clapboard, it is worth priming the walls, floor and ceiling with an antifungal compound. This is especially true if it was previously open. After the composition dries, the actual installation work begins:

• A crate is stuffed on the walls and ceiling. It is usually made from wooden blocks. If the balcony or loggia is insulated, the installation step of the slats is consistent with the width of the insulation.
• The heater is installed and fixed.
• Floor joists are installed.
• A heater is placed between them.
• Moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 10-12 cm is laid on top, fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws.
• The lining is mounted on the walls.
• The ceiling lining is installed.
• Floor and ceiling plinths, corners, slopes are installed.

How to insulate

Before sheathing a balcony with clapboard, it is necessary to lay a heater. Any of the thermal insulation materials available on the market will do:

• The cheapest is foam (PSB). Produced in the form of plates. It has good thermal conductivity (see the graph). Its main drawback is that it cannot withstand loads - it is wrinkled, but under the clapboard this drawback is unimportant. The second point that many do not like is that it is unnatural and can release harmful substances. You can’t argue with unnaturalness, and the second statement is only partly true. Under normal operating conditions, the foam is chemically neutral and harmless. It emits harmful substances only when burning. Another negative quality: it has low vapor permeability (does not remove steam). But this is the other side of insulation. With an excess of humidity today cope with the help of a ventilation system.

  

• Mineral wool. They are made from molten rocks, slag or fiberglass. So this heater is natural. But in production, phenol-formaldehyde resins are used as a binder, which is not encouraging. There are basalt quilted mats, in the production of which binders are not used - they can be used even in children's institutions. The positive qualities of mineral wool are good thermal insulation properties, ease of use (but not with fiberglass). The disadvantage of this material is hygroscopicity, which is why it should be closed from all sides from moisture. The price range is average.

  

• Extruded (extrusive) expanded polystyrene (EPS). Has very good heat-insulating characteristics and high density, well resists mechanical loadings. Along with thermal insulation, it dampens sounds well. Of the relatively inexpensive heaters, it is the most effective. Sold in plates, has a system of locks, which eliminates the formation of cracks between which cold air penetrates. It is this material that is most often recommended. If you have the financial opportunity, put it under the clapboard trim. Of the shortcomings - it does not conduct steam and is not cheap.

  

• Foil polyethylene foam. This is an effective vapor barrier that prevents the penetration of moisture into the insulation. When using mineral wool, it must be rolled out from above, nailed to the crate with staples, glue the joints with foil tape. You can just use building foil, but it is more difficult to work with it, and the polyethylene layer is an additional heat insulator. This material alone can be used only in the southern regions, in the rest of the territory it is only an addition that improves thermal insulation.

  

• For those who want to have environmentally friendly housing, there is a natural insulation with excellent characteristics: foamed glass (foam glass). It does not burn, does not emit anything, light, durable, frost-resistant (operating temperature range from -260°C to +230°C). The thermal conductivity of foam glass is 0.04-0.08 W / (m K). Cut with a hacksaw, mounted on foam. The disadvantage is the high price. There is foam glass from Chinese manufacturers at reasonable prices, but the quality is below average, there is Belarusian foam glass, which is average both in terms of price and characteristics, the best is European, but it is expensive.

  

  Foam glass is a natural heat-insulating material with very good characteristics.

• Foam blocks are often used to insulate balconies. For normal efficiency, their thickness should be about 27 cm. No one will take such an area from a small-sized room, so a layer of one of the heat-insulating materials described above is still placed on top of the foam concrete.

Any of these heaters can be used on the ceiling, floor or walls. For the floor, there is a natural and inexpensive option - expanded clay, but it is far from being as effective as the materials presented above: the average thermal conductivity is 0.1 W / (m K) (two times higher than that of mineral wool).

How to sheathe a balcony with clapboard

Balcony cladding is technologically not much different from finishing other rooms: first, a frame is assembled, then a cladding board is nailed to it. It is necessary to align the crate horizontally and vertically, and then correctly set the first bar on the wall or ceiling, since the installation of all the others is carried out from it. Then the second board is nailed to the first board, then the third and so on, to the corner. On the next wall, everything repeats again.

We make a crate

Sheathing clapboard begins with the creation of a frame - crates. It is most often made from a bar. The cross section is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation (if any). The bar should be of such a size that a gap of 1.5-2 cm remains above the surface of the insulation. This gap will allow maintaining the normal humidity of the insulation and wood, which will prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

If the timber of the required size turns out to be too expensive, you can save. Under the crate take a bar of the same thickness as the insulation (or a little more). It is mounted between the guides, and on top, perpendicularly, a counter-lattice is stuffed. It is made from strips 1.5-2 cm thick. They will then give the required clearance. Only in this case it is necessary not to get confused with the direction of fastening the lining.

Cladding lining can be vertical or horizontal. The battens of the crate under it are installed perpendicularly. If the trim will be mounted vertically, then the crate under it should be located horizontally.

If there is a counter-lattice, the rules change: the primary lathing is also stuffed (vertically), and the counter-lattice - horizontally. With this system, the slats will be mounted vertically.

More often, clapboard lining on the balcony is done vertically. Accordingly, the installation of the crate can be started from the bar under the window block. It is set horizontally, checking the level in two planes. If the wall is uneven, wooden or plywood linings of the required thickness are installed in the right places. Fasten the crate with dowels.

Planks must be stuffed along the perimeter of the walls and ceiling, stepping back from the corners of 30-40 mm. Also be sure to stuff around the perimeter of window and door openings. Then intermediate bars are fixed: one plank from the other should be at a distance of 40-50 cm. It turns out a frame on the walls and ceiling, to which the lining is then attached.

The lining boards are cut a little shorter than the required length (0.5-1 cm). This is to compensate for dimensional changes due to high temperature and/or humidity.

Lining installation instructions

They are fastened with screws or nails to the laths of the crate. If you use nails, take them with a small hat - finishing, self-tapping screws - for wood (better - light, not black). There is another fastener option - staples from a construction stapler. This is the fastest way and quite reliable. Just take staples with a long sharpened leg, T-shaped ones are also suitable.

The first bar is installed in the corner that is most difficult to work with. It is put up with a spike in the corner, the correct installation is checked with a building level. They are nailed into the face (into the front surface), stepping back from the edge of 1-2 cm. To prevent the wood from splitting, a hole is first made with a thin drill. Then a screw is screwed in or a nail is driven in.

On the opposite side (the groove is located there), the lining is fixed with nails, self-tapping screws, staples. They are hammered at an angle of 45 ° into a spike. It turns out a hidden fastening - it is closed by the next board.

There is another option - clapboard lining using special mounting plates - kleimers. They hold well if the spike is long enough, and this can most often be observed in eurolining. Kleimers are installed in the spike (as if put on it). On the other hand, they have a mounting plate with holes for nails. One or two cloves with a small hat are hammered into this plate.

The first board is attached to each plank of the crate, all subsequent boards - through one in a checkerboard pattern (alternating). The second board is inserted into the tenon of the first. If it does not fit tightly, it is knocked out with a small piece of wood attached to the bar. and hammer. They knock with a hammer on the attached piece of wood. Such complexity is necessary so as not to damage the board. Having driven the spike into the groove, they check whether the bar has become vertical. If necessary, adjust, then nail. This is how the entire lining of the clapboard is assembled. The last bar sometimes needs to be cut in width. It is attached closer to the corner, like the first one, in the face.

The process of mounting the crate and wooden lining is shown in the video.

The entire process of cladding a balcony - from the installation of exterior finishes to the installation of slopes and platbands, see the video below. We only worked with PVC panels, but the finishing steps are similar. The only difference is that the wooden lining does not have starting bars. All tops and bottoms are closed with skirting boards, and corners with corners.

How to process lining

When cladding a balcony with clapboard, it is necessary to treat with antiseptics not only the finish, but also all the laths of the crate. The most popular protective impregnations and primers are listed below. Some of them can immediately give the wood a shade, not painting over, but emphasizing the texture.

• Senezh Aquadecor is a tinting antiseptic. If you cover the wood with this composition, it immediately protects against mold, fungi, insects, while giving one of 16 shades. No topcoat required.
• Aquatex "Anti-septic primer" - high-quality protection of lining for subsequent finishing coatings (for example, under varnish).
• TIKKURILA VALTTI-POHJUSTE (TIKKURILA VALTTI-POHJUSTE) primer antiseptic for wood, protects against biological damage, but does not protect against ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, it is recommended to color as soon as possible.
• Impregnation Manor "U-409". It creates a thin polymer film on the wood, through which steam penetrates, but this film prevents dirt from penetrating into the wood, preserving the appearance of the finish. The composition includes additives that protect against fungi, mold and insects.

On the packaging of each product there is an instruction for use and application. It describes the rules of application and consumption to ensure protection. Only if these rules are observed, you can be sure that the lining and the frame under it will serve for a long time.

If we talk about stains, then most of the modern compositions, along with a change in the color of wood, also have protective properties. For example, stain Aquatex (similar to Senezh Aquadecor). It has a wide range of colors, contains a hard-to-wash antiseptic that protects wood from damage by fungi or insects.

Processing lining on the balcony can be done in different ways. It is most convenient to use tinting antiseptics to finish the balcony. A single treatment will immediately protect and give color. But they only give shade, leaving the pores open. Dirt can accumulate in these pores. And getting it out of there is no easy task. If you also need a protective film that will prevent the penetration of dirt, you can cover the lining (tinted or not) with varnish or dirt-repellent impregnation such as U-409 Estate. Impregnation creates a polymer film on the surface that closes the pores, but does not give shine.

Often there are problems on the sunny side: how to cover the lining on the balcony so that it does not fade. Light tinting is best, which whitens the wood a little. A light wall heats up less and is not afraid of fading. This clapboard lining looks wonderful.

If you want to have a shiny surface, then you can use any varnish for interior work. Watch the video about the types and types of varnishes. It will be easier for you to understand how to varnish the lining on the balcony.

Painting the lining on the balcony with ordinary paint is no longer relevant today. Why spend money on wood and then paint over its texture? Then you can immediately put PVC. So choose: toning, varnishing, or both.

Clapboard finishing allows you to create a comfortable space, insulate walls, protect against the appearance of fungus and mold. The process of operating the premises, which has become an important part of a modern home, depends on how correctly the finishing of the balcony is carried out from the outside and inside.

How to finish the balcony inside

PVC lining

As a finishing material, sheathing boards are most often used - lining and eurolining, as well as PVC panels. Wood remains the #1 material. Finishing a balcony with a wooden clapboard has a number of advantages over vinyl panels. The most important of them:

• Environmental friendliness.
• Long service life.
• Excellent heat retention.
• Resistant to temperature extremes.

For finishing, a sheathing board made of ash, oak, alder, cedar spruce and linden is used. Pine is used less often - when heated, resin is released. Pine lining is used for cladding on the north side, where there is little sun. Beautiful interior of a balcony or loggia using lining in the photo:

Block house Wardrobe from a lining from a board of class "A" class "B"

A wooden board is divided into 4 classes, depending on the quality of the material:

1. Premium - the most expensive and high quality.
2. Class A: 1-2 knots per 1.5m surface.
3. Grade B: Resin pockets or cracks are acceptable.
4. Class C: For outdoor use only. Knots and cracks are allowed.

How to sheathe a balcony with a tree

Self-finishing balconies inside with clapboard is a job that a home master can do. Remember a few important rules that will help you achieve a good result:

• Prepare your walls carefully.
• Buy quality material, class A or B.
• Calculate the right amount of material and take with a small margin.
• Prepare your tools.
• Consult with experts what type of insulation to use in your case.
• Consider how you will cover the tree.
• Video instructions and photos of the work will help to carry out the installation of the frame and the finishing material itself.

Video - finishing the loggia with clapboard using a log:

Foundation preparation

Remove the old coating from the walls, repair the cracks with plaster. Be sure to treat the area with a special composition that protects against the appearance of mold fungi.

Tools and materials

Balcony insulation

The next step is the installation of a heat-insulating layer. Note an important point:

• If the thermal insulation is purchased in rolls, with a foil base (Isolon, Penofol), the insulation is first fixed, and then the crate is performed.
• To insulate the balcony with foam boards or mineral wool, mount the frame from wooden beams or aluminum profiles, and then lay the insulation in the formed cells.

Frame installation

Lining fastening

Visual video lesson - how to properly decorate a balcony: There are also other mounting methods, see them below in the image:

Tip: for the least effort and time, opt for eurolining. Its spike is longer (up to 8-9 mm) than that of a conventional lining board (4-5 mm). Docking boards and their alignment is easier and faster. Another plus: the humidity of the lining is lower, which provides good ventilation and reduces the likelihood of fungi and mold.

Protective coating

Next, it needs to be coated with special compounds to prevent the appearance of mold, give an aesthetic appearance, protect it from exposure to sunlight and mechanical damage. Suitable:

• Antiseptics: glazing and covering. Protects against UV rays and fungus.
• Acrylic varnishes.
• Alkyd varnishes.
• Acrylic and oil paints.
• Can be saturated with stain in several layers to give the desired shade and strength to the coating.

Please note: impregnation with an antiseptic is a prerequisite for maintaining the quality of wood, protecting it from the appearance of black spots.

Application of PVC boards

The interior decoration of the balcony, in which plastic lining is used, is a budget option available to everyone. PVC panels:

• Easy and quick to mount at any angle.
• They are cheap.
• They have a wide range of colors.

Negative sides:

• They are not environmentally friendly.
• Turn yellow when exposed to sunlight.
• Condensation may accumulate on them.

To improve the quality of the coating on the surface is applied:

• laminating compound.
• Flexo printing.
• Thermal transfer.

If the surface of the walls is even, PVC plates are fixed using glue. For uneven surfaces, first create a frame of wooden planks similar to what is used for fixing sheathing boards.
The order of work is similar to wood paneling:

• The panels are fixed with screws or a stapler to the rails.
• Work also leads from the corner.
• The next plastic panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one, a lye occurs - the part is fixed.

Video - do-it-yourself installation of plates:

The finishing profile is mandatory for installation at the end of the row along the length of one of the walls. Important: treat the walls with lime, which will prevent the development of fungus.

How much does the lining of the balcony inside

It all depends on which option you choose. Finishing a balcony with PVC clapboard will cost less, wood - more. The price of 1 sq.m of plastic panels is 120-140 rubles. Euro lining costs 317 - 450 rubles. per sq. meter. The price of work on interior wood paneling is 361 rubles per sq. m. meter (excluding the cost of sheathing boards). Finishing with plastic (includes the cost of the material) - 360-540 rubles. for 1 sq. m.

Finishing a balcony with clapboard inside is an affordable way to create a secure, comfortable, cozy room. A balcony or loggia has long been transformed from a warehouse where rubbish was previously stored into a place of rest. It is so nice to drink tea or contemplate the beauty of the landscape outside the window, being in the comfort zone.