Insulate the timber house from the outside with your own hands. Warming of the house from a bar. Is it worth it to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

During the construction of log houses in the Russian climate, wall insulation is a prerequisite for a comfortable stay. Our winters are too harsh, so an uninsulated building will make the owner freeze or pay incredible amounts for heating. But when choosing materials for wall cladding, I want the tree to retain its healthy microclimate as much as possible. Unfortunately, many heaters, having high thermal insulation characteristics, are not “friendly” with the timber, making it “suffocate”. And in a couple of years they will lead the wood to a deplorable state. Consider what materials it is worth carrying out the insulation of a timber house, so that it is warm in the rooms and the walls are ventilated.

Which is better: warming a house from a bar from the outside or from the inside

The main rule of the builder: plan everything in advance, so as not to face alterations later. Therefore, start thinking about the insulation of a house from a bar even when creating a project. To begin with, decide: you will sheathe inside or outside.

What is the benefit of insulating a log house from the inside

If the house is new, then many owners do not want to hide the texture of the wood under the finish, because it is beautiful in itself. In addition, warming a house from a bar from the inside is beneficial for monitoring the condition of the wood. The owner will have time to notice the places where the walls begin to collapse or rot, in time and take measures to “treat” and strengthen the protection of the tree.

Disadvantages of internal wall insulation

And yet, the insulation of the log house from the inside is used less often than the outside. First, it steals a lot of usable living space. That is why this moment must be considered during design in order to calculate the square of the rooms, taking into account insulation. But if the foundation is already in place, you will have to put up with the fact that the premises will become more cramped, or install wall insulation from a bar from the outside.

Secondly, builders do not recommend insulating a log house from the inside, because the tree will be in direct contact with the cold. And when the winters start, the dew point will shift to the inside of the wood. At the slightest error in ventilation, the tree will begin to rot inside the cake, and you will notice this only when the fungus eats through the timber.

Benefits of outdoor insulation

The main trump card that the insulation of a log house has on the outside is the correct distribution of materials for the release of internal vapors. According to building codes, materials are laid from slightly permeable to highly permeable. So that the steam, penetrating into them, could be more easily weathered. The tree has a denser structure than the insulation (only the right one!) And the diffusion membrane, so the steam will not settle in the thickness of the cake, but will evaporate in the ventilation gap. In the case of inner lining, steam will easily penetrate through the insulation, but it will not always break through the tree, because it will have time to cool down, and the molecules will move more weakly.

When making a choice in favor of external or internal insulation, you should weigh the pros and cons of the chosen method of thermal insulation.

In addition, for old buildings in which wooden walls already look unpresentable, warming the log house from the outside is a more profitable option. At the same time, you will insulate and embellish the house at the expense of finishing. Well, the usable area of the premises will not suffer.

Cons of insulation from the outside

If you decide to insulate a house from a bar from the outside, you will lose the opportunity to observe the condition of the wood. Therefore, it is necessary to adhere to the correct installation technology and find professional builders so that the walls covered with decoration remain healthy even without your control.

The nuances of the internal insulation of the log house

If you still choose the option of internal insulation, then even it can be made as safe as possible for the “health” of wood. To do this, you need to buy a suitable, well-ventilated insulation, whose vapor permeability and composition will match the properties of the timber.

Expanded polystyrene materials fall off immediately: they poorly pass moisture. They cannot be used for either internal or external insulation, because condensation will begin to form at the junctions with wood.

With a high level of heat saving, polystyrene foam insulation is not recommended for wood, as they do not allow the house to breathe

Basalt and fiberglass materials have excellent vapor permeability, and with proper ventilation, moisture will escape from them. The only negative is the unnatural origin. All of them emit harmful substances to some extent, and in their structure there are many microparticles in suspension. When shaking the plate, you can see how the air around is filled with the smallest fragments of insulation, and they can settle on a person, causing discomfort. With normal ventilation, some of the suspensions will end up inside the house, and you will be forced to breathe them. If you block their access to the house with an impenetrable film, then the entire healing microclimate of the tree will disappear.

When installing mineral wool, they use respirators, and you will have to breathe suspended particles inside the house

The most beneficial for maintaining clean air in the rooms will be flax fiber and soft fiberboard. Both heaters are of natural origin, therefore they are ideally suited to the structure of timber walls.

Eco-insulation for wood

Linen fiber

It is a slab of 85 percent flax fibers and 15 binder fibers. Flax is known for its antiseptic properties, which are also preserved in the insulation. Those. fungi and bacteria will not settle in it. When cutting and installing linen insulation will not generate dust. It does not deteriorate its thermal insulation properties when saturated with vapors, therefore, when laying, it does not require a vapor barrier layer. Well ventilated and does not cause allergies.

Flax fiber does not contain suspended particles, so it will be safe to breathe in the house

soft fiberboard

It is made from coniferous wood chips, formed into slabs with environmentally friendly binders. Well absorbs sound and passes pairs. It has a unique property to absorb vapors in case of excessive humidity of rooms and give them back if the air is too dry. Maintains the maximum acceptable humidity level for a person in the premises: 40-60%.

Soft fiberboard is a material identical to wood, so they work great in pairs.

Some aspects of installation

When using soft fiberboard, a crate is not needed. The insulation is glued to the beam or taken on self-tapping screws. The wall turns out to be even, so it is plastered, laying the joints of the plates with a reinforcing mesh, and then painted. You can immediately glue the wallpaper on the fiberboard.

When using flax fiber, a vertical crate is created, stuffing it directly onto the timber. Insulation plates are laid in it, fixing with dowel-umbrellas. Metal profiles are placed on top of the crate and the walls are sewn up with drywall. Due to the metal profiles, a ventilation gap is formed in the wall, through which the moisture that has got into the insulated beam will go under the roof or down and ventilate. Note that when using flax fiber, do not put vapor barrier films so as not to disturb the natural circulation of air.

How to insulate a timber house from the outside

Most often, we see on the video the insulation of a log house from the outside. Such cladding is mounted using the technology of creating ventilated facades, because the main requirement for maintaining healthy wood is high-quality ventilation.

The choice of heaters in this case is wider than with the inner lining. You can use any fiberglass or basalt insulation, because the glued beam itself will be an obstacle for their small particles. The main thing is to use plates, not rolls, because they are more rigid and do not slide down over time.

: Do not choose rolled materials for mounting, because over time they may slide down

But before insulating a house from a bar, decide on a specific heat insulator. For example, if you buy mineral wool, then when creating a wall cake, it must be insulated with a film from the timber so that steam does not penetrate into the loose structure. Wet cotton wool ceases to keep warm. But, by fixing a vapor barrier layer on the walls, you thereby reduce their ability to "breathe", because the moisture from the timber will be forced to return back to the house. If you buy heaters that are not afraid of getting wet (for example, ecowool or glass wool), then you do not need to create a vapor barrier. It is enough to protect the glued insulated timber with a ventilation gap from the finishing sheathing and a waterproofing film. Those. your wall cake will look like this:

Bar.
Crate with ecowool inside.
Waterproofing film (superdiffusion membrane).
Ventilation gap (wooden slats are stuffed on the crate).
Finishing finishing material (lining, siding, etc.).

Ventilation slats are stuffed on the crate, which should be set exactly according to the level: it will have to attach lining or siding to it

When choosing how to insulate a log house - from the outside or from the inside, weigh all the pros and cons. Look for an option in which the wood will remain “healthy” and the rooms will become much warmer.

4.95 out of 5)

Timber houses, due to their environmental friendliness, are a popular option for private construction. But although they heat up quickly enough and have good thermal insulation properties, insulating a log house is an urgent need for most households.

Installation of insulation on the walls of a house from a bar

Differences between old and new technologies

Wooden construction in Russia is a centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was enough for good thermal insulation. Like today, the wood shrank over time, and gaps appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary tree moss was used to seal the cracks. He landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.

In modern construction, issues of economy come to the fore and force the use of timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. With insufficient cross-section, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the tree begins to dry out, which is why heat loss grows even more.

It looks like a wall of timber after drying wood

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a timber house

Prudent owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house from a bar in order to spend less money on heating in winter. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.

Features of insulation from the inside

With internal insulation, the positive effect of saving heat is offset by the disadvantages:

Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of the frame under the insulation.

The heat-insulating layer hides the "living" wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.

Due to the external winter cooling of an unprotected wooden wall, the dew point shifts to the internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.

What happens to the wall with improper insulation from the inside - in the video:

Wall insulation from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method

Most often, they resort to it, bearing in mind the obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:

The usable area of the internal space is saved;

Outside work does not change the daily routine of the family.

The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden changes in temperature, which prolongs the life of the building.

The correct selection of materials does not violate the microclimate of the rooms (the house "breathes").

You can decorate the facade to your liking or improve the appearance if the wood has darkened over time.

If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.

Easy to control the work of the construction team.

The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to carry it out in good weather - it makes no sense to do this in cold and damp conditions.

Three main methods of insulation

Any wall insulation involves attaching a layer of insulation to it and structures holding it. For this, several methods have been developed, and each of them has its own advantages and features of execution.

The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective "pie"

Hinged ventilated facade

By itself, this technology was developed as a decoration of the facade of the house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or similar material to the wall, this method can be considered as insulation.

Advantages of using ventilated facades:

Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.

Ease of installation.

A wide choice of facing material of various flowers.

The dew point moves outward.

Mounting technology:

The lumber is pre-treated with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.

Outside, a crate is attached to the house, on which a sheet of hydro and wind protection is stuffed. In the space between the slats of the crate, air circulates freely, due to which condensate or moisture that has appeared in another way will be removed from the insulation.

The crate is leveled with a plumb line.

Next, slats are stuffed onto the crate, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. Accordingly, the height of the rails is also selected - for central Russia it is recommended to use a heater with a thickness of at least 70 mm.

A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding

Insulation mats are laid between the slats, fixing with dowels.

Then, bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats, so that there is a gap between the insulation and the cladding.

Facing (siding) is mounted.

Insulation under siding.

There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and a decorative coating is also used on the outside. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then the whole house is covered with siding in any case.

The nuances of installation, taking into account the selected material:

The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or extruded polystyrene foam is selected.

The distance between the slats is set 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.

According to the technology, cotton wool slabs are mounted at a distance; polymer plates are placed in cells, the joints are treated with mounting foam.

When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally mounted on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.

Sheathing a log house with siding

Polyurethane foam spraying method

The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with mounting foam. The difference here is that the amount of material needed to create a thermal insulation pad is much larger, so a spray gun using compressed air from a compressor is used to process polyurethane foam. Technology advantages:

Easy to use and high speed of application of the heat-insulating mixture on large surfaces.

Excellent adhesion (adhesion) with most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.

Environmentally friendly, fire resistant and anti-rot of the treated surface.

Insulation spraying can be carried out on any prepared surface

Types of heaters

The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features that must be considered when choosing:

Mineral wool

It is produced in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-combustible, have chemical and biological resistance. Another advantage of the material is vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.

By cons - cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry out completely when wet.

It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually it is easier to insulate a house from the outside with mineral wool using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.

Laying mineral wool slabs in the crate

Styrene boards (polystyrene, polyurethane foam)

Styrofoam is the cheapest option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are combustibility (releases toxins during combustion), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Extruded polystyrene foam

It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (plates), does not absorb water. Disadvantages: highly flammable and at the same time releases harmful toxins.

Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are similar in appearance

Environmentally sprayable styrenes (ecowool and polyurethane foam)

Such heaters are expensive due to the method of application; large surfaces require special installation and experience. For small areas of complex shape (crevices near pipes, windows, between plates), polyurethane heaters in cylinders are offered.

"Warm" plaster

A mixture of light granules of complex composition (glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which does not ignite, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, well protects the facade from moisture and is easily repaired.

Preparing a wooden structure for plastering on video:

Subtleties of wall insulation from timber

Insulation of a log house outside under the siding cannot be started whenever you want - before that, the following conditions must be met:

Work on the installation of insulation can begin only after the complete shrinkage of the log house - often this period can be one and a half to two years.

It is forbidden to carry out work if the facade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.

Before insulating a house from a bar from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: close up not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, mounting foam or similar materials.

Good thermal insulation of a log house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It should be taken into account how the heat-insulating material will be combined with the wood of the beam itself.

To choose a suitable insulation, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the log house and the seams.

Some heaters are installed without crates

Tools and materials for building thermal insulation

To insulate a house without being distracted by the search for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:

bubble or laser building level, you can still use a plumb line;

tape measure, square or ruler made of metal;

hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;

facade dowels, adhesive tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;

dry slats, insulation;

vapor and waterproofing film;

finishing material.

wood preservative sprayer

Treatment of a wooden wall with an antiseptic

The general course of the installation of thermal insulation

All steps for warming a house from a bar by any of the methods described are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:

for ventilation of the first layer of insulation, a crate of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;

a frame is stuffed onto the crate for fixing the insulating material

installation of a heater;

installation of additional battens and frame (if double insulation is used);

laying an additional layer of heat insulator;

fastening of a diffusion membrane, which will provide hydro and wind protection.

installation of facade finishes (lining, siding) with an air gap.

In general, the insulation of a house made of timber according to the rules will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the apparent simplicity of the whole process, there are a fairly large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if there is no proper qualification, then it is better to order the work to professionals, because it is much more pleasant to control the construction site than to climb walls on your own.

The ancient way of building houses from wooden beams has become popular again today. Now such buildings play the role of not only country houses, but also full-fledged dwellings for year-round use. Well, in order for the wooden house to be warm in winter, it must be insulated. We will talk about how to properly insulate a log house in this article.

Insulation of the walls of the house from the outside

As a rule, it is customary to insulate wooden buildings from the outside. This allows you not to hide the interior space of the premises, and also prevents the wood from rotting. Insulation of a log house from the outside is necessary for several reasons:

Thermal insulation of the building protects the walls from heat loss, reduces heating costs.
An insulated house is not afraid of high humidity, severe frost and other adverse environmental factors.
Being engaged in thermal protection of walls, you can simultaneously install siding, which will allow you to change the appearance of the house at the request of the owner.
As already mentioned, external insulation does not reduce the internal space of rooms.

When performing such work, it is important to consider several points:

choose the right thermal insulation material, calculate its thickness and the required amount;
strictly observe the installation technology;
do not forget about creating a hydro- and vapor barrier layer;
properly process wooden walls to protect them from insects, fungi, burning and other harmful effects.

Insulation for a log house must meet certain requirements:

be of high quality and durable;
easy to handle and install;
safe for health, environmentally friendly;
don't burn.

In order for the insulation of a log house to be effective, and the building has served you for many years, listen to the following recommendations:

Never use raw material. The insulation must be dry and pre-treated with an antiseptic. If you cover the walls with damp material, the wood will begin to mold, rot, and collapse. Fungi and microorganisms will start in it, and after a while the bars will simply become worthless.
It is possible to insulate the walls of a wooden house only after the building has completely shrunk. Such shrinkage, as a rule, takes at least 1.5 years. If the building is sheathed earlier, as a result of subsidence of logs, the lining is deformed.
It is possible to mount heat-insulating material only on prepared walls. This means that all deep cracks and chips must be covered with putty, and the wood itself must be impregnated with antiseptics and flame retardants.

How to insulate a log house from the outside: creating a hinged facade

Among the methods of thermal insulation of log buildings, the construction of a ventilated facade is considered the most popular method, the reason for this is the advantages of this method:

the hinged facade is easy to install, it takes relatively little time to work;
after insulation, the walls can be lined with various decorative materials: clapboard, porcelain stoneware, siding, boards, rack profile, etc.;
this method of insulation does not allow the walls to mold and collapse, the dew point moves beyond the outer wall;
resistance to temperature changes, humidity, precipitation, as well as excellent sound insulation should also be attributed to the undeniable advantages of a hinged ventilated facade;
such a design is durable, the period of its operation reaches 50 years;
When insulating walls, you reduce energy costs for heating.

The external insulation of a log house in a similar way can be described as follows:

So that moisture does not accumulate in the wood of the walls, a gap is made between the insulation layer and the decorative finishing material, which is why such a facade is called ventilated. To create air space, a crate is installed on the wall. To make it, marks are first placed on the surface where the bars will subsequently be attached. The width between them should correspond to the width of the sheets of insulation material, and the thickness of the bars is selected depending on the thickness of the mats.
Having placed the marks, the logs are attached to the walls with the help of self-tapping screws. The evenness of the crate is checked with a building level and a plumb line. It is especially important to ensure that all the bars are located in the same plane - this will later help to make a beautiful, even and high-quality siding.
When the elements of the crate are fixed, sheets of insulation are laid between them. They are pressed tightly against the walls and fixed with dowels.
To provide the necessary air space, wooden planks are nailed over the crate and insulation layer. Their thickness should be such that the gap is at least 5 cm.
After laying the insulation, finish with decorative siding.

Insulation of the house with sprayed materials

Instead of sheet insulation, you can also use sprayed insulation, for example, ecowool or polyurethane foam. Ecowool is a cellulose substance that is made from recycled paper, borax and boric acid. The advantages of such material can be considered:

environmental friendliness and hygiene;
good resistance to moisture;
excellent thermal and sound insulation qualities;
fire safety;
non-toxicity;
non-waste use;
excellent vapor permeability;
the ability to fill even the smallest gaps in the walls.

Ecowool has the appearance of a crumbly mass, pressed into briquettes. Before use, such briquettes are opened, their contents are poured out and dried.

If you want to use polyurethane foam as a heater, check out the advantages of this material:

like ecowool, polyurethane foam is fireproof;
it has good sound and heat insulation properties;
considered an environmentally friendly type of finish;
its service life is quite long, and during this entire period the material does not lose its properties;
polyurethane foam is not subject to decay, mold does not form on it, insects and microorganisms do not damage it;
ease of installation due to the fact that it does not require the use of special fasteners.

To insulate walls by spraying, you will have to acquire special equipment. You can buy it, or you can rent it and save money. The process itself looks like this:

Even before purchasing the material, you should calculate its required amount. To do this, measurements are made of the area of \u200b\u200bthe working base, and the consumption of the sprayed insulation is also taken into account.
Then, a crate of wooden boards or a metal profile is mounted on the wall of a log house from the outside. Subsequently, decorative finishing material can be attached to this crate.
Using a special installation, ecowool or polyurethane foam moistened with water is sprayed between the lathing bars. Often, when soaking cotton wool, adhesives are added to the water, which will allow the insulation to adhere more firmly to the surface.
Having processed the walls of the house with a pneumatic sprayer, the material is left until it solidifies completely.
After that, the excess insulation is cut off with a knife, and siding is mounted on top of the crate.

Insulation of a log house from the outside, video:

Thermal insulation of the house from the inside

Is it worth it to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Few people dare to mount insulation on the inner surface of the walls of a log building. Warming a log house from the inside is not popular for several reasons:

This method of thermal insulation of the building can lead to the accumulation of moisture in the walls, due to which the wood will rot, mold and collapse. It is highly undesirable to use a similar method in baths and saunas, where the air is constantly saturated with water vapor. In winter, when the wood freezes, the dew point is located between the walls and the insulation layer, as a result, condensate accumulates there, which destroys the structure. If you create a good ventilation system in the house, then such problems can be leveled.
The second reason why the walls of log houses are rarely insulated from the inside is the loss of usable area. The space of the rooms is reduced by at least 3-4 cm on each side, and this is especially noticeable in small rooms.
The insulation layer also hides the natural beauty of the log cabin, which is not to the liking of lovers of natural interiors.

However, sometimes the owners of wooden houses resort to a similar method for various reasons. Some, for example, do not want to hide the appearance of the house under a layer of insulation and siding. Someone wants to veneer the interior walls with some kind of decorative material. Regardless of the reasons, the technology of internal insulation of premises should be conscientiously observed so as not to spoil the wooden beams and shorten the life of the building.

The better to insulate a timber house from the inside

For thermal insulation of internal walls, only environmentally friendly materials should be selected that will not emit toxic substances into the air. For example, polystyrene foam is not suitable for such a purpose for several reasons. Firstly, it does not have vapor permeability and does not allow the walls to "breathe". The room turns out to be absolutely isolated, there is no necessary natural air exchange in it. Secondly, during combustion, the foam releases very toxic substances into the air, so that in the event of a fire it is considered an extremely dangerous material.

You can insulate the walls with mineral wool. It is environmentally friendly and does not burn, has good vapor permeability, high thermal insulation characteristics. The most significant drawback of such a heater is that small particles are released into the air, which are dangerous for the respiratory tract. If the cotton wool is covered with a layer of film and finishing, then you can ignore such a minus.

Very often, materials that are completely environmentally friendly and safe in all respects are used for internal wall insulation: linen, jute, wool. Such means of insulation are economical and effective, protect the building from cold and extraneous sounds, and provide good air exchange through wooden walls.

How to insulate a log house from the inside with your own hands

The first step is to carefully inspect the walls for cracks, chips, damage, and the quality of the caulk. All shortcomings are eliminated, cracks are covered with putty. Dirt and dust are removed from the logs, after which the bars are impregnated with antiseptic compounds. If electrical wiring runs along the walls, it is also checked and, if necessary, repaired.
After the antiseptic impregnation dries, cracks are caulked in the walls. For this purpose, jute fiber is used, which is thrust into the gaps with a chisel.
Before insulating a log house, it is also important to take care of creating a vapor barrier. So that the heat-insulating material does not get wet, it is customary to cover it on both sides with a layer of vapor barrier film. Because of this, the humidity in the rooms will increase, in order to avoid this, you should arrange good ventilation in the house.
When laying the vapor barrier material, it is placed with its smooth side against the wood so that the moisture from the logs does not impregnate the insulation.
The next step is the installation of the crate. Wooden bars or metal profiles are stuffed along the load-bearing walls. The step between the boards should be equal to the width of the mats of the heat-insulating coating. Corner posts are mounted in the corners of the room so that the corners are even and beautiful. The crate is fixed on the walls with self-tapping screws, using a level, its evenness is checked. If wood is used for the frame, it, like the walls themselves, is also impregnated with antiseptics.
Between the details of the crate, sheets of insulation are laid, for example, mineral wool. A fragment of the required length is cut from the roll of material and installed between profiles or bars. It is desirable that the width of the sheet be 1-2 cm greater than the distance between the frame parts. Straightening, cotton wool fills the entire space and does not require additional fastening. If the insulation itself does not hold very securely, you can fix it with dowels.
Another layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the mineral wool. Its fragments are overlapped and connected at the joints with adhesive tape. The vapor barrier is nailed to the insulation with a stapler. Remember also that the film must be placed with the rough side towards the interior of the room.
The final stage of work is the finishing of the walls. The easiest way is to install drywall sheets on top of the crate, after which they can be painted, covered with decorative plaster or wallpapered.

Timber house insulation. Video

Built from a wooden bar, the house actually breathes, providing a healthy microclimate to the space inside.

A well-caulked facade often does not need additional insulation. However, it is carried out in order to save and save the energy used for heating.

In addition, cladding and effective insulation are one of the most relevant ways to repair a building that is no longer new.

Preparing for insulation

Facade preparation

Warming is carried out according to the principle of a hinged facade. In choosing the most suitable material for this material, the householder often listens to the recommendations of friends and acquaintances.

At the same time, it is important to remember about the dew point, which even the highest quality insulation can shift deep into the wall.

And this is fraught with consequences: condensation collects on the inside of the facade during the cold season. And it causes an increase in humidity, the appearance of fungus and mold.

Before starting work in the outer wall, it will be necessary to repair all the cracks with high quality.

If the house is new, then it is necessary to wait at least a year, as they will appear after it shrinks.

In the old building, all corners and walls are carefully checked. The holes found are sealed with tow or hemp, which will require a chisel. It is advisable to have several of them in different sizes.

Cracks in the timber can be filled with a special compound - wood sealant. Glued laminated timber does not need caulking.

Material selection

After the completion of the restoration work, you can think about choosing a suitable insulation.

Most often used as mineral wool or polystyrene.

Modern foam plastic has its improved version - extruded polystyrene foam. It is characterized by higher strength, even over time it does not crumble into fragments and granules. Ordinary Styrofoam collapses from time to time. Also, an improved type of material is distinguished by its incombustibility.

How to insulate a house from a bar outside?

Such a heater mineral wool well ventilated. Due to this property, it does not lose its working qualities even when wet (it absorbs moisture well).

When choosing a material for warming a wooden structure, the features of finishing materials must be taken into account, thanks to which they can breathe like wood. This is of great importance.

The working properties of wood should not be violated, otherwise the qualitative physical characteristics of the dwelling may change. Therefore, more often the choice falls not on polystyrene foam, but on mineral wool.

The process of warming a house from a bar

How to correctly calculate the required thickness of the material for insulation

Before purchasing the material, it is required to calculate the required amount of mineral wool. Of no small importance is the thickness of the insulation boards.

Too thin is not only a violation of technology, but also sweating and weeping walls inside the building during the cold season. Excessively thick material is fraught with unreasonably high costs. When working, it is important to observe the following provision: the dew point from the wall is displayed strictly in the insulation.

For this reason, the wooden facade is insulated only from the outside.

You can not do your own, rather complicated calculations, and not order them from professionals, but refer to the requirements of a special SNiP, which defines all the necessary indicators for each specific zone.

It is also indicated there that if the wall has a thickness of up to 15 centimeters, then for mineral wool as a heater, a thickness of 5 centimeters is sufficient. A material of 10 centimeters will be too massive.

To calculate the thickness of the insulation, you can use a simple folk method:

If the winter temperatures do not fall below 20 degrees below zero, then with a thickness of 20 centimeters, one layer of 5-centimeter mineral wool boards will be required.
If the winters are colder, and the temperature often exceeds 20 degrees, two layers of mineral wool insulation are used.

Warming outside. Work progress

Suppose we have decided on the choice of material, and we know how thick it should be. All subsequent work is carried out according to the well-known template for mounting a hinged facade. This is a well known technology.

You have to do the following manipulations:

The wooden beam is treated with special compounds - anti-combustible and antiseptic.
A crate is mounted, for which a beam with a thickness equal to the thickness of mineral slabs is used. The step between the individual bars should be equal to the width of the insulation plates, which can be different - it depends on the manufacturer.
Mineral wool is placed between the bars, securely fixed to them with special self-tapping screws with umbrella caps.
A windproof and waterproof film is installed. It is important to ensure that the film is placed on the correct side: glossy to the outside, and rough to the insulation itself.
After that, facing facade slats are nailed directly onto the timber. Finishing can be done with different materials: it can be lining, block house, siding and so on.
It is also necessary to remember about observance of the necessary air gap between the waterproofing and the cladding itself.

This technology provides for high-quality air ventilation of all existing layers, which guarantees the free evaporation of excess moisture.

This method can be used not only to insulate the facade of a wooden house, but also to insulate the roof. The roof can be covered with any suitable material, such as functional shingles.

What is the best paint for wood for outdoor work with wax

The beam from which it is assembled is also used for the construction of load-bearing structures or fences. In fact, this is a log after edging from 2, 3 or 4 sides. Three-sided processing gives a bar with a front side that imitates a log surface.

Types of timber

Beam and bar are different concepts. The thickness of the diameter is less than 100 mm - a bar. To assemble the house, the beam must be made of pine (for better breathability) and have a section of 150x150 or 190x150 mm.

For low-rise housing construction use:

solid timber (cheap, but burdened in the long term with long-term shrinkage);
glued (high-tech, with specified useful properties, and therefore expensive material);
profiled (with a tongue-and-groove joint laid during processing - this removes internal pressure leading to wood cracking).

Profiled timber is made from solid wood or glued from lamella boards. The last option is devoid of flaws and belongs to premium class building materials. This type of lumber differs and by surface treatment:

profiled timber (German) - "comb";
profiled timber (Finnish) - with two spikes for connection;
profiled timber with cups - rifling for corner joints;
timber with a flat front surface;
beam with a convex front surface.

What makes timber the preferred material in private housing construction

Design-friendly appearance, the ability to play with color and texture.
Simplicity and waste-free construction.
Factory surface treatment suitable for applying finishing materials (lining oil, paints).
Environmental friendliness of the building while maintaining a healthy microclimate.
Superiority in operational properties over rounded logs.
Comparative economy.

All appearing later limitations houses made of timber are a consequence of violations of the technology for the production of this material.

No matter how carefully the walls are assembled from profiled timber, it is impossible to avoid looseness and cracks. They make the house windy and permeable to low temperatures.

Therefore, an important stage of construction is the correct insulation of a house made of timber - internal and external.

Insulation of a house from profiled timber

Traditional tow has received in our days effective competitors: jute, linen, ecowool, mineral wool, fiberglass, expanded polystyrene, thermal basalt. To evenly distribute the insulation between the crowns, ribbons of fibrous materials in the form of a non-woven fabric are used, which are attached to the wood with a stapler or glue.

Choosing a heater should be guided not only its heat-saving properties, but also susceptibility to open fire, fungal and mold lesions.

What is meant by "insulation of a wooden house"

Warming a house from a bar can mean just protection against blowing, or protection against the ingress of cold air. And you can consider this process as a set of measures to preserve internal heat in winter conditions. Each of the target installations will require different insulation materials, different technologies for the implementation of this stage of construction, different degrees of complexity of the measures taken.

The most unpretentious warming is caulking of interventional cracks. It is carried out in 2 stages: at the first (during the assembly period), pieces of tow are laid between a pair of beams, at the second (after shrinkage of the house) - the tow is tucked into the slot with a special spatula using a hammer. The process is simple, but time-consuming and time-consuming.

Insulation of the house from the inside

Whatever insulation is used in this case, its primary task of preserving heat is certainly combined with sound insulation from the external environment. Wall insulation inside should not significantly reduce the size of the premises, therefore, insulation boards are chosen no thicker than 3 cm. Their environmental safety and resistance to destruction by rodents are provided. On top of the insulation, usually, the walls are lined with plasterboard.

The technology of proper insulation of a house from a bar outside

Work on the insulation of a timber house from the outside begins with checking the quality of the joints after reaching the natural moisture content of the timber, selecting a heat insulator and calculating its required thickness (up to 7 cm). Now there is a convenient opportunity to calculate with an online calculator on the Internet.

Worth considering that insulation work will not greatly affect the dimensions, but can unrecognizably change the appearance of the building, so you need to immediately decide on the type of future cladding (plaster, siding, false timber) and the proposed finishing work.

External insulation can be done in the following way:

arrange a hinged ventilated facade;
insulate the outside with polyurethane coating;
insulate with foam.

Required insulation tools.

Roulette and level with a plumb line.
Hacksaw.
Self-tapping screws.
Staircase or scaffolding.
Lumber for framing.

The sequence of works on the installation of a hinged ventilated facade

If the timber used in construction was dry, then the hinged facade can be started immediately after the construction of the log house.

First of all, it is necessary to close up the interventional gaps (see "caulking").
The crate begins to be assembled from a frame of bars (50x70 along the height of the insulation). They are fixed to the wall vertically with nails, in increments along the width of the insulation.
According to the technology of the ventilated facade, the crate is made two-level to obtain a gap of 3 cm between the insulation and the finish coating.
Insulation plates are laid end-to-end between the structures of the crate.
A special material (diffuse membrane) is stretched, fastened to the crate with a construction stapler.
Strengthen the finishing material of the facade.

This type of insulation makes the façade stable to any kind of atmospheric phenomena, prevents rotting and mold, preserves the ability of wooden walls to "breathe".

Insulation by spraying polyurethane foam

polyurethane foam- Polymer #1 adheres well to a clean, oil-free surface. Applied in several passes with special equipment under pressure with a layer of 50 mm on a wall made of timber, it forms a moisture-proof film without seams and cracks and closes the pores of wood. This coating is removed under the hinged facade of the finishing material.

The method is very simple and economical, carried out without lifting mechanisms and scaffolding. A significant advantage is resistance to open fire, the duration of the preservation of heat-shielding qualities, resistance to rotting processes and exposure to bacteria.

However, should be provided when designing a house, a ventilation system that effectively solves the problem of the vapor barrier of the polyurethane film.

Foam insulation

Insulation of a timber house with polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) can be done both from the inside and outside. It is an inexpensive and effective material in use. For insulation work take plates 5 cm thick and special glue.

Starting profiles are attached horizontally to clean, dry walls at the bottom to prevent slipping of the cladding.
Glue is applied both to the foam and to the place of gluing, lubricating the joints.
Work is carried out from the bottom up.
Glue drying time - 3 days.
After drying, the foam is additionally strengthened with special dowels.
Subsequent work is carried out after the primer layer.

Shrinkage of profile timber up to 3-4% occurs in the first six months - a year.
When working with insulation, it is important to observe safety measures: eye protection - goggles, hand protection - gloves, respiratory protection - respirator.
Insulation cannot be stored outdoors: getting wet will reduce its heat-shielding properties.
Insulation plates can be installed at a distance without additional fasteners, if the distance between the elements of the crate is reduced by 1.5 cm.
Spray insulation can be done at a temperature of at least 10 degrees.
Organic heaters are subject to destruction by rodents.

Features of the Russian climate - strong wind, heat and frost, rain - one way or another, require home insulation. Consider how to insulate a house from a bar in accordance with the regulations and standards for heat saving.

In general, insulation should be started even during the manufacture of a log house, laying an interventional sealant after each row of logs. Wood is a natural material that dries and shrinks over time. And therefore, a year later, after the walls of the log house have dried and shrunk, repeated work on glazing and thermal insulation is carried out.

materials

As used only natural plant fibers, which are based on no artificial additives. They provide an environmentally friendly atmosphere, do not emit harmful substances and unpleasant odors, and isolate sounds well.

Seals from natural plant fibers caulk all the cracks, corners of the building.

Auxiliary materials

Experts do not recommend finishing the insulation of a log house with plaster finishing. The reason is that as a result, the natural ventilation of the wall from the outside deteriorates, which makes the tree more prone to rotting and strife. You need to prepare the following materials for work:

hydrobarrier;
bars for the frame with a width corresponding to the heat insulator;
the actual insulation itself - mineral wool, polystyrene, glass wool in rolls or slabs;
finishing - siding or lining.

It is possible to isolate the house from the inside or outside only after the completion of the natural shrinkage of the tree. It usually occurs within a year of operation.

Classification

From a bar it can be made with the following materials: swamp moss, jute, made from the shoots of this plant and resistant to decay; flax fiber tow and mezhventsovy felt. Expanded polystyrene products are best used last, since with prolonged use of the building, the layer may be destroyed and fumes with harmful phenolic compounds may appear.

Mezhventsovy felt is produced in three types: jute interventional - 90% jute, 10% - flax, linen felt (flax wool) from highly refined flax fiber and flax jute interventional sealant - half from flax fiber, half from jute fiber.

About interior decoration

Insulation for interior finishing of timber can be almost any. The most widely used are mineral wool materials produced by ROCKWOOL, URSA, ISOVER. It is believed that they have better sound insulation, low thermal conductivity, low hygroscopicity.

Properties of mineral wool

The fibers of the material are made from basalt, a particularly strong rock. The big pluses of mineral wool are the non-susceptibility to mold, fungi, insects, as well as the ability to withstand temperatures above 1000С.

In addition, mineral wool fibers have good vapor permeability, which allows vapors to evaporate rather than accumulate in the walls. An important quality of mineral wool is the absence of toxic substances in the composition.

The thickness of the plates of the applied insulation depends on the width of the walls of the house itself. For example, for a beam of 150 mm, it will be correct to use only 5 cm of mineral wool. Thinner plates are mounted in two continuous layers. The joints must be covered to enhance the heat-saving effect.

Types of mineral wool

Mineral wool URSA is a mixture of dolomite (mineral) with quartz sand. Its main advantages are high elasticity and flexibility (facilitate installation) and excellent thermal insulation characteristics (the thermal conductivity coefficient of such a heater is 0.032 W / mK).

For the walls of ventilated facades, Ursa FACADE material is used in the form of semi-rigid fiberglass boards, covered with high-density black fiberglass. Additionally, the plates are treated with water-repellent agents. Thanks to all these qualities, the need to install windproof films disappears.

ROCKWOOL mineral wool is made from basalt rocks impregnated with a hydrophobic mixture - a chaotic arrangement of mineral fibers provides high strength. Binders such material contains a minimum amount. ROCKWOOL is not subject to deformation during operation. It is produced in various forms - rolls, plates, mats of various thicknesses and areas, which also differ in the degree of rigidity.

ISOVER mineral wool is made on the basis of glass fiber and has excellent heat retention, shape stability and durability. The upper surface of such plates is covered with fiberglass, therefore they do not require the use of diffuse membranes. When carrying out two-layer insulation, such material acts as the top layer.

Preparation for use

The thickness of the insulation used depends on what wood and what technology the house is built from:

for chopped logs, at least 15 mm of insulator is laid;
for glued laminated timber, a layer of 5 to 10 mm is sufficient.

All work on sealing the walls must be carried out simultaneously along the entire crown in order to avoid warping the log house. All cracks must be sealed both inside and out. Before carrying out work, the log house is carefully inspected, all cracks are identified and caulked. Particular attention is paid to the processing of the corners of the log house. Just framing is clearly not enough.

Insulation from the inside

After sealing the walls, work is carried out on the internal thermal insulation of the dwelling. They consist in laying a layer between the walls and the material for interior decoration. As the latter, gypsum fiber or drywall is often used. For internal insulation, insulation with a vapor barrier is used to prevent fumes from soaking it.

Warming a house from a bar from the inside has the following risks:

possible cracking of the tree and the formation of condensate;
log rotting;
reduction of the usable area of the premises and deterioration of the interior.

Outside insulation

The best option for insulating a wooden house would be to create a ventilated facade system with an air gap - the ascending currents themselves will remove unnecessary moisture. Such a system has high heat-shielding qualities and ensures the dryness of the walls.

It is necessary to pay attention to the sealing of windows and doors, the floor, the arrangement of interfloor ceilings and the attic. Floor insulation is carried out by laying a layer of waterproofing, a heat insulator, on top of which a layer of vapor barrier is placed.

Beginning of work

To begin with, the entire surface of the walls is well treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. After processing, gaps and cracks are eliminated at all joints and between the timber. The gaps are eliminated with mounting foam or seals, which are used when laying the log house. More often it is lnovatin, jute fiber or ribbon tow.

After sealing all the gaps, vertical carrier rails are stuffed onto the walls. The distance between them is left slightly smaller than the width of the future insulation material. This is done for an easier and tighter entry into the structure.

Laying

Sealant boards are laid between the carrier rails, starting from the underside of the wall. The plates are fixed with the help of anchor fasteners, while the joints are located close to each other and to the edges of the crate.

The second frame row of bars is attached in a horizontal direction. Mineral wool slabs are installed in the gaps between them. In this case, the upper plates must overlap the joints of the underlying layer. The second layer of heat insulator is also reinforced with anchors. In addition, the densely elastic structure of the fiber boards itself contributes to a fairly reliable installation of the material between the battens of the crate.

A diffusion membrane is fixed on the surface of the insulation, permeable from the inside for steam and air, but absolutely closed from the outside for wind and external moisture. This layer will perfectly protect the insulator and the tree under it from adverse atmospheric phenomena.

Thermal insulation in regions with high humidity will be properly supplemented with a vapor barrier film. In this case, the vapor barrier is installed directly on the surface of the wooden beams of the wall.

Ventilation layer and finish

The frame for the exterior finish must be fixed in such a way that an air gap remains between the finish layer and the heat insulator for ventilation of water vapor. After all, external moisture will inevitably condense on the surface of the insulation, which should be able to evaporate.

The outer facade trim is mounted on the frame. It can be lining, siding or panels made of polymers. You can finish the building with a block house - a polymer that imitates wood with its texture and pattern. It is important to prevent heat loss through other areas - the roof, floor, foundation, windows, doors.

Attic, doors and windows

The technology of warming the attic of a wooden house is as follows:

a vapor barrier layer is laid on the hemmed ceiling of the attic;
a heater is laid on top - mineral wool or polystyrene foam;
a layer of waterproofing is laid on the insulator and a crate of boards is mounted.

An ideal option for mounting doors and windows is the use of two-chamber metal-plastic or wooden double-glazed windows and double doors, as well as the mandatory presence of an entrance vestibule. Finally, before choosing a method of thermal insulation of a log house, it will be right to make sure that such a procedure is necessary in principle.

When arranging their own private house, many people are wondering how to insulate a house from a bar from the outside. This is due to the fact that most modern buildings are made on the basis of high-quality wood, but their thermal insulation properties leave much to be desired. To ensure a good microclimate in a log house, you need to increase the thickness of the walls, but not everyone is ready to sacrifice aesthetic appeal for the sake of warmth.

Features of warming a log house from the outside

And there is no point in taking such drastic measures. If you apply the right methods of warming timber structures, the issue of effective thermal insulation will be resolved in a short time. You can warm the room both outside and inside. Today we will deal with the topic: “How to insulate a house from a bar outside and how to do such a procedure with your own hands”.

Fortunately, these days there is a wide variety of educational videos and additional material that will make the set of upcoming events easier and faster. If you have the desire and time, you can insulate your room in the best possible way. So, first things first.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a log house from the outside

Many wooden houses do not have a sufficiently large wall thickness, therefore, it is difficult for them to endure the harsh Russian winters with severe frosts and strong winds. Even high-quality sealing of all cracks in the log house is unable to improve the thermal insulation properties of the building.

Therefore, in order for the house not to freeze under the influence of extremely low temperatures and to maintain optimal temperature conditions, it is necessary to insulate it from the outside. To equip a good thermal insulation system is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. Today you can find a wide range of different thermal insulation solutions built using very simple technologies, which allows you to carry out a number of home insulation activities without special skills or abilities.

And to simplify the task ahead, you can watch a lot of training videos with a detailed explanation of each step.

Proper external insulation of a timber house involves the use of different materials. The main thing is that they meet the following requirements:

had excellent fire resistance and were not exposed to high temperatures;
have low thermal conductivity;
were environmentally friendly and did not emit toxic substances during operation;
had good thermal insulation performance;
did not accumulate moisture;
passed from the room various escaping fumes;
differed in good noise-insulating indicators.

As for external insulation, this method has many advantages, namely:

the possibility of a quick transformation or renovation of the house;
reduction of fuel costs due to improved thermal insulation;
providing effective protection against any external factors: noise, moisture, dampness;
significant savings in free space;

If you follow some instructions, study photos and videos with detailed instructions for warming, the upcoming procedure will be completed much faster and more productively than expected. Experienced experts advise paying attention to such subtleties:

when installing insulation, you can not leave this material on the street under the open sky. If it is exposed to rain, it is likely that its heat-shielding performance will deteriorate greatly. Therefore, store the insulation in a warm, well-ventilated and dry place;
laying the bars of a horizontal crate with a step less than the width of the insulation by 15 millimeters, you can refuse to use fasteners;
when laying the insulation, be sure to follow the safety rules and use personal protective equipment. These include a respirator, gloves, goggles.

Proper installation of insulation in houses made of glued laminated timber involves the use of three main methods:

arrangement of a hinged ventilated facade;
the use of foam as a heater;
spraying walls with polyurethane, for which it is necessary to use special equipment.

According to experts, it is most expedient to apply hinged ventilated facade method, because it has many advantages, including:

What materials will be the most effective in insulating the walls of houses from glued laminated timber

Today, there are many excellent heaters with high thermal insulation properties and durable construction. Among the most popular are:

fiberglass;
mineral wool;
basalt mats;
expanded polystyrene and others.

Each of the aforementioned heaters has its pros and cons. They also differ in the method and features of installation, so before you opt for a particular offer, you should make sure that you can install it yourself without the help of a specialist. The main thing is that the selected material meets all the requirements of quality and safety.

A good insulation for the walls of a house made of glued laminated timber should have:

excellent thermal insulation;
incombustibility;
moisture resistance;
the ability to effectively prevent heat transfer between the inside of the room and the outside;
environmental safety.

How to insulate a house from a bar. How to properly insulate

Insulation of a house from a bar - process is painstaking and responsible. But if you take into account all the "pitfalls" in advance, weigh the "pros" and "cons" of each heater, the upcoming procedure will be performed without the slightest difficulty.

It should be noted that today the most popular material for insulating walls made of glued laminated timber from the outside is mineral wool. Its plates have small dimensions, due to which the additional load on the structural parts of the room is significantly reduced. In addition, this option is very cheap, perfectly retains heat indoors and prevents the penetration of atmospheric moisture inside. Also, mineral wool is famous for its incombustibility, and due to its softness and elasticity, it quickly acquires the necessary shape and does not form bridges during installation, while remaining resistant to thermal deformations.

Installation of insulation can be carried out under a block house or with the help of plastic siding, which is used to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside. The complex of installation work on the insulation of the house can be divided into several separate stages. Let's talk about each of them in more detail.

vapor barrier

Before proceeding with the installation of insulation, it is necessary to provide an effective vapor barrier system. At this stage, you can use aluminum foil, vapor barrier film or roofing material. The procedure allows to ensure good ventilation properties of the facade under the film and involves the installation of vertical rails 2.5 centimeters thick at a distance of one meter from one another. After that, a vapor barrier layer is installed on the underlying rails on the entire surface. Holes with a diameter of 20 millimeters are made between the base rails for successful ventilation..

The presence of such a system will prevent the penetration of atmospheric moisture inside and the accumulation of internal moisture under the film, which can cause rotting of the wooden wall. To fix such a vapor barrier, nails or staples are used, and the attachment points are sealed with adhesive tape to protect them from water penetration.

Mounting the frame for effective thermal insulation. Laying thermal insulation

In order for the final result from the insulation of the walls of a timber house to be as successful as possible, pay attention to such a mandatory procedure as mounting the frame. As a frame, you can use high-quality boards 100 millimeters wide and 40-50 millimeters thick, which are mounted vertically on the edge on the wall. The distance between the boards should not be less than the width of the insulation.

The beam is attached to the facade with self-tapping screws. During installation, it is necessary to control the position of the beam using a level or plumb line. If the crate is uneven, the installation of the cladding at the final stage will be ineffective.

To prevent the appearance of gaps between the boards, mineral wool is installed very tightly. Material with a thickness of 50 millimeters is laid in two layers, using semi-rigid, elastic plates with a density of 80-120 kilograms per cubic meter. In this case, the plates hold perfectly between the frame boards and do not slip during operation.

After completing the installation of thermal insulation, you should proceed to laying a waterproofing film, which is designed to pass steam and retain water. The film is laid on a heat-insulating layer and nailed with staples or nails from the frame. When joining the film, it is necessary to leave at least 5-10 centimeters of overlap, and cover the formed joints with self-adhesive tape.

Laying the second layer of the frame

Stuffed on the frame of the heat-insulating layer slats 50 millimeters wide and up to 3 centimeters thick. This step allows free circulation of air between the cladding and the vapor barrier to prevent the formation of condensate that appears on the waterproofing layer. The resulting space is covered with a dense metal mesh to prevent the penetration of insects and rodents.

As for the outer skin, in most cases it performs only a decorative role, so it is up to you to decide what material will be used for the lining. The main thing is that it meets your design requirements and complements the overall style concept. As a facing material, you can use wooden lining, and plastic siding or any other material.

Ready-made heaters

It is no secret that recently on the market you can find a lot of ready-made heaters for effective thermal insulation of walls made of glued laminated timber. They are manufactured according to advanced standards and high technologies. The most popular of them is the famous Penoplex”, which is produced by a Russian company. The material is offered in the form of soft and high-quality thermal insulation boards, which are an effective form of foamed extruded polystyrene foam created using a special technology.

Such panels are famous for their high resistance to external influences, durability and long service life. They are able to prevent the penetration of moisture, dampness, bacteria, mold and other microorganisms into the premises, providing the right microclimate and comfortable living conditions. Now Penoplex is a new word in the world of domestically produced heat-insulating structures.