Metal tile joint. Instructions for the installation of metal tiles (his experience on the example of "Grand Line"). Fastening roofing screws

The metal tile today represents the most demanded roofing material. Due to its technical characteristics, this coating allows it to be used on roofs of any configuration. And therefore, craftsmen often wonder what overlap of metal tiles should be when laying them. About all the nuances of laying roofing metal tile material in the article below.

Roofing metal tile material is a thin sheet steel coating, the thickness of which is only 0.4-0.6 mm. And to enhance the strength characteristics and protect the material from external factors, a galvanized composition is applied to thin steel, and then a polymeric decorative layer. The polymer contains a pigment, which gives the metal tile a certain color.

This roofing has a number of advantages:

• The attractiveness is aesthetic;
• Durability;
• Simple laying of sheets of metal tiles;
• Lightweight coating (only 4 kg/m2).

Calculation of the required amount of roofing

Before starting roofing work, it is necessary to initially calculate how many sheets of coating will be required. Otherwise, there is a risk of having to buy a profile in addition, and this threatens at least with downtime in work, at a maximum - with the acquisition of a coating from another batch. In this case, the shade may differ significantly, which will not look very attractive on the roof.

So, if the roof has a simple configuration (gable), then it is enough to find out the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope and divide it by the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bone sheet of material from the selected manufacturer. At the same time, it should always be taken into account that when installing the very first (lower) row of metal tiles, it is necessary to make cornice overhangs of about 5-7 cm (so that they cover the width of the drainage system by a third).

In turn, the useful area of ​​one sheet of metal tile is a multiplication of dimensions (length and width), from which the depth of overlaps is preliminarily subtracted vertically and horizontally. As a rule, when laying a solid sheet with an overlap along the length, the overlay is 15 cm. If there is a need to lay the metal tile in horizontal rows, then the horizontal overlap of the metal tile sheets is done in width. It already depends on the slope angle of the slope and varies between 10-15 mm.

Important: the steeper the slope of the slope, the smaller the overlap can be. The smaller the angle of inclination, the larger the overlay should be.

As for the fasteners for laying the profile, here they count 6-8 self-tapping screws with a sealing washer per m2 of coating.

Checking the geometry of the slopes

In order for all profile rows to lie perfectly flat and create a monolithic coating, it is necessary to check the evenness of the roof slopes. They are aligned diagonally. If there are any distortions, then they are leveled with a crate.

Also, when laying the profile coating, it is worth considering the angle of the roof slope. For metal tiles, it must be at least 14 degrees. The maximum slope is most often not regulated, but here it is worth considering the climatic features of the region:

• So, for the northern regions, where a large amount of snowfall prevails, the slope of the slopes should be at least 30 degrees.
• In windy regions, it is better to make the roof not so steep. Here, 15-20 degrees will be enough.

Installing the cornice strip

This element of a metal-tiled roof is mounted primarily along the cornice overhang. It is fixed using special self-tapping screws with a step of 30 cm.

Important: the bar must be laid along the length with tension so that it does not rattle in the wind. At the same time, do not forget to make overlaps of 5-10 cm so that water does not fall on the wood of the crate.

Installation of internal valleys and aprons

If the metal tile is laid on a tent or hip / broken roof, then first of all it is necessary to arrange the valleys. To do this, a long continuous crate is made in the valley area. It is carefully waterproofed and only then an internal ready-made apron is attached to it. It is also laid with elements and an overlap is formed at the metal tile. What overlap should be in this case? The answer is simple - 7-10 cm in the direction of the apron from the bottom up.

If the metal tile is adjacent to the pipes, then internal aprons must also be run through them with mandatory sealing of the joints.

Before starting the installation of the roof, its sheets must be lifted onto the roof. For this, special lags are used. The material can be lifted in stacks of 5-6 sheets, after tying them so that there is no friction between the sheets.

Tip: after installing the coating, you must immediately remove the protective film from it. Otherwise, then under the sun it will heat up and it will be difficult to dismantle the protection.

Laying the material is carried out in long sheets, moving from right to left or left to right. If the profile sheets move to the right, then each next sheet covers the previous one with an overlap of 15 cm. If the roof moves to the left, then each next sheet is placed under the waves of the previous one also by 15 cm.

The first two or three sheets of material must first be laid out on the roof and fixed in the upper ridge part with one self-tapping screw per sheet of coating. Then the sheets are aligned along the eaves and overlaps and are already securely fixed to each other. And only after that it is worth screwing the rest of the fasteners over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe profile.

If the installation of metal tiles is carried out in two horizontal rows, then in this case it is necessary to first fix one profile and align it along the end of the slope and along its cornice. Then, with an overlap of 10-15 cm, the second sheet of the vertical row is laid on top. It is also aligned and tacked with the lower and in its ridge part. Next, lay the bottom sheet of the second column of the profile with a mandatory overlap in relation to the first profile. It is leveled and connected with a self-tapping screw to the first sheet. And finally, the second sheet of the column is laid and, after alignment, it is connected to the third and second. And only then all four sheets are screwed to the crate.

Mounting sheets on a triangular slope

To correctly lay the metal tile on triangular slopes, you need to act somewhat differently. So, along the lower cornice of the slope, it is necessary to mark the center and draw it to the top. Now the center is also identified on the profile sheet and the sheet is now laid so that the centers coincide. In the future, moving from the central profile, the remaining layers of the roof are laid to the right and left of it. Non-lashes are made here according to the above principle.

Important: with this method of laying, you will have to cut the material. For a faster and easier cut, a home-made devil tool is used, assembled in the form of a rectangle on hinges from boards 10 cm wide. The distance between the inner side of the left board and the outer side of the right one should be 1.1 m. With this tool, you can mark the profile directly on the roof.

Some masters make a number of gross mistakes when carrying out roofing work. To do everything right, you should avoid such actions:

• Profile cutting with a grinder. Such treatment of the roof heats up the metal, which means that the protective polymer coating lags behind the steel. After that, the roof rusts and deteriorates.
• Non-observance of the crate step. As a rule, it should be equal to the step of the roof wave.
• The use of self-tapping screws without sealant. Such installation will soon lead to leaks and damage to the material.
• Screwing in self-tapping screws is optional. It is worth knowing here that the fasteners are mounted only in the deflection of the wave, in order to thus reach the boards of the crate.
• Walking along the profile in rough shoes. It is advisable to move along the laid surface in shoes with soft soles and at the same time step on the deflections of the profile wave. Firstly, this is the hardest place in the roof, and secondly, under these places there are batten boards.

When performing roofing work, you need to pay attention to whether the overlap of the metal tile is done correctly. The material is the most popular because of its strength, reliability, economy, ease of assembly and installation, elegant design, as well as a wide range of colors. Moreover, the roof will be immune to temperature changes and mechanical damage, all with a long service life.

Metal roofing is one of the most popular roofing materials.

Construction work is distinguished by its complexity, accuracy and responsibility. The construction of a private house must be carried out in compliance with all the rules, otherwise, the reliability of the building cannot be guaranteed.

Material fastening rules

After installation, it is necessary to remove the protective film from the surface, of course, if it is available. Do not forget that the material is very fragile, so you need to stand on the surface only in soft shoes.

When installing a metal tile, you need to walk in the places of the crate, because a deflection can form or waves can go along the sheet.

There are rules for fastening roofing material:

The metal tile is fixed at the deflection point

• pay attention to the installation of the sheet: it must be fastened at the deflection point, where the crate adjoins - this will allow the structure to be sealed;
• the very first, fundamental sheets should be attached above the step;
• all subsequent sheets must fit tightly, which will give strength to the roof;
• when installing a sheet from the end board, it is necessary to ensure the fastening of each wave;
• sheets and gratings should fit snugly against each other;
• in places of overlap, the metal tile should be fastened with short self-tapping screws.

The method of installing metal tiles with an overlap will allow you to achieve a strong and beautiful roof.

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Fastening roofing material

It should be noted that when screwing, the fasteners must be tight, but not crush the surface (seal).

The material must be attached to each lath with self-tapping screws, which are staggered around the entire perimeter.

To achieve inconspicuous fastening, place the details to the step of the wave - this will keep them in the shade. Self-tapping screws in the metal tile should be driven at an angle - this will allow you to better tighten the sheets to each other.

Special attention should be paid to the materials used. So, non-galvanized self-tapping screws will cost less at a price, but they are very malleable to moisture and temperature, which will lead to corrosion of the fasteners, and later the profile sheet itself.

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Roofing tool

By its design, the metal tile is durable, but very fragile material, so you need to use an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw to cut it.

Do not use a grinder with an abrasive wheel, because you can remove the anti-corrosion coating from the surface of the sheet, which will reduce the life of the roof. The fact is that the abrasive surface can burn through the coating or metal chips are formed by a separate coating.

Cutting may not always be of high quality, and some parts of the metal tile sheet may be chipped or cut off to hide it, it is enough to use a spray can to tint the surface.

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Formation of runoff from the roof

The roof serves as protection not only for the people who live in the house, but for the whole house. That is why it is exposed to special influences: wind, rain, snow, hail and stones - all this can affect the surface of the material and the life of the roof.

When the runoff is formed, a capillary groove is arranged.

The first problem that builders face is the accumulation of moisture after rain. The capillary effect occurs between the sheets above the drain level. In order to get rid of the negative influence of moisture, a capillary groove has been developed, thanks to which water can flow smoothly and not accumulate. Now you can find sheets with a capillary groove (right or left) and even double. The groove must be covered by overlapping sheets.

Roof construction using overlapping metal tiles is very common and easy to manufacture. Sheets can be stacked in one or more rows. If you are using a multi-row design, then the sheets should not be wide, their thickness varies up to 0.5 mm. The complexity of multi-row stacking lies in the fact that sheets are shifted between rows. And the more rows, the greater the offset can be. In order to avoid this, you need to lay all subsequent rows with a slight counterclockwise turn - this will compensate for the offset.

As a standard, the turn should not be more than 2 mm.

When assembling the roof, the main criterion is the ease of installation. So, the side for laying the first sheet should be chosen the one where there are no bevels or cuts. After installing the main (first) sheet, the next one is mounted, which should cover the wave of the previous one. In the case of a capillary groove, the sheet must cover the structure to drain water. This technology of installing metal tiles will protect the entire structure from slipping the last sheet, but you need to be extremely careful, as the coating can be damaged.

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Options for mounting metal tiles

The first sheet will be the main one, it is from it that the entire roof surface is built. To install it, you will need to spend more time than for the rest: the sheet is aligned along the end and side. After installing the first, you need to install the second. We also align it, but already relative to the first sheet, as from the base surface. Next, lay 3-4 sheets.

Sheets can be fastened in various ways.

If it seems that the metal tile lays crooked, it is better to lift the sheets and fasten again. All subsequent sheets must be fastened together with self-tapping screws. The overlapping of sheets is carried out in such a way that only the last sheet in a row is not fastened until the next row is aligned.

After the first row is laid out, you should proceed to install the second. Its mounting is practically no different from foundation mounting, however, vents must be installed between the rows. Sheet joints are fixed with vents for air and water circulation.

According to this technology, the installation of sheets can be done in another way. To do this, install the first sheet and precisely align it with the eaves. To ensure accuracy and reliability, we temporarily screw a self-tapping screw in the middle. The sheet will sit tight, and now you can start aligning the second sheet, which is installed on the side. Both sheets are attached to each other, after which the third sheet lies down, but it is installed on the first one. The first and third sheets are aligned and fixed with self-tapping screws. When the entire side is installed and leveled, we proceed to mount the following sheets. Thus, whole blocks of 3-4 sheets will be formed, which will need to be fixed with neighboring blocks. To ensure the integrity and accuracy of the structure, you can slightly turn the blocks when attaching to each other. This method is advisable when building a roof in 3-4 layers, because the blocks are fastened with just one screw, but this is more of an advantage than a disadvantage. For ordinary residential buildings, you should not use more than 4 sheets hardly - this will make the entire structure heavier.

The metal tile became one of the most demanded roofing materials for a long time. But there is a popular myth that only trained professionals can lay it down. In fact, the situation is different - with due diligence, any neat person will cope with this work.

Where to begin?

Installation of a metal tile begins with careful preparation for work. First of all, the exact need for the material is calculated and, of course, they start from the size of the roof. They need to be measured as carefully as possible. Cutting the material into the desired fragments is done with an angle grinder, but without an abrasive wheel - it damages the tiles too easily. The former roofing cake is supposed to be removed without residue, because the rafters are not designed for two coatings at once; this completes the preparation for laying as a whole, except for tools and materials.

Tools and everything you need

In order to lay metal tile boards with your own hands, you need to cut them to exact dimensions using metal scissors. Taking measurements and comparing with them requires the use of a tape measure. To climb to the roof, it is extremely important to use a sturdy ladder or stepladder. Fastening is carried out using an electric drill and a screwdriver. From hand tools you need a hammer, a black stationery marker, a long wooden lath. When working, be sure to use gloves and goggles made of durable plastic.

You also need to stock up on such components as:

• guide boards;
• roof slats;
• waterproofing material;
• the tile itself;

• aero rollers;
• end and ridge trims;
• decorative overlays;
• self-tapping screws with washers;
• board 25x100 mm in the required quantity.

Types of roofing and elements

The calculation of the necessary elements for a gable roof has its own characteristics. Let's say its dimensions are 8x5 m (according to the slopes). The calculation of the required number of sheets is determined by dividing the length of a single slope by the width of the sheet. This refers to the working width together with overlaps, and not the one that is obtained by measuring with a tape measure. It is recommended to round the resulting non-integer value always up and take into account that one of the sheets can be divided equally and used on two slopes at once.

The simpler the type of roof (especially the configuration of the slopes), the less tiles will go to waste. By increasing the length of the sheets, you can reduce the amount of overlap. But this turns into a complication of work and more difficult transportation, for which you will have to pay a lot. Judging by the experience of most people, if the length exceeds 6 p. m, it is advisable to divide the sheet into parts. The overlap is at least 0.15 m if the slope is steeper than 25 degrees, and it will be at least 0.2 m if the roof is flatter.

Laying tiles on an insulated roof involves the installation of:

• waterproofing film;
• one or more ventilation gaps;
• vapor barrier.

For fastening films, special brackets are used; the moisture barrier layer itself may be vapor permeable or impermeable. The passage of water vapor is mandatory if there is a cold attic below, but for a heated residential attic, this is no longer so significant. But ventilation under the roof layer must be ensured. If it is not installed, condensation will inevitably appear below, and the safety of the house structures cannot be guaranteed. It is advisable to use, as well as under any layer of metal on the roof, sp

Such membranes are one-sided, and the side that is smooth to the touch should not be applied to the insulation. It is advisable to carry out work on the arrangement of ventilation and antenna output in close conjunction with each other. Typically, the top of the antenna outlets is cut off, leaving approximately 80% of the size of the racks. The exit of the ventilation pipe is output into the passage elements, which must be held with self-tapping screws. To connect the outer part of the hood with the air duct in the house, a corrugated pipe is useful; adhesive tape is used to fix this pipe in a predetermined position and seal the joint.

All these measures will improve the quality of the insulation, but you need to deal with its appropriate type.

Mineral wool is considered one of the best options because it:

• does not burn;
• well extinguishes steps and impacts of raindrops on the roof;
• mechanically strong;
• stably retains valuable qualities for decades;
• mounted by hand without any problems.

On the side of warm rooms, wool insulation must be thoroughly protected by a vapor barrier layer, because their permeability to water vapor is high.

Having dealt with the insulation, you need to find out the details of the valley device. All flanges are laid from below with a layer of insulation, and screws will be needed to hold the cut sheets. No less significant than the valley is the passage through the roof of metal tiles of steel pipes and chimneys. If the chimney goes through an insulated roof, it will be necessary to lay a strictly defined number of layers of insulation, as well as roof insulation, and create a ceiling crate.

Qualified professionals solve this problem by constructing a special box that surrounds the outlet of the pipe to the top. The box itself must be covered from direct contact with the chimney. To isolate them from each other, mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass is used. The geometric shape of this node is determined by the type of materials used. Most pipes are rectangular, round or square. From metal and cement, they mainly make structures in the form of a circle.

It is forbidden to bring the pipe out through the valley, because then it will not be possible to reliably ensure the tightness of their connection.

Any chimney pipes must be equipped with protective umbrellas.

When forming an external apron, waterproofing materials that are resistant to high temperatures are used. Ceiling openings around a steel chimney will need to be closed with a heat-insulating barrier or box, this requirement is relevant not only for wooden roofs. Instead of fluff, vermiculite or expanded clay is sometimes used to protect the main body of material from overheating. But the traditional way using basalt wool is more practical and safer.

When removing any chimneys through insulated roofs, auxiliary transverse beams are placed. When leading the pipe into an already created roof, the joints are treated with sealant or covered with adhesive tape. To collect and drain condensate, a drainage gutter is useful. It is not necessary to buy it, such a thing can be done with your own hands. Round chimneys are fastened with steel brackets, while gaps are always provided for the thermal expansion of the structure.

Regardless of whether the roof is equipped with a pipe or not, it is important to correctly calculate its slope. Not only the consumption of metal tiles depends on this, but also the practicality of using the roof, its properties. The slope changes - and immediately the susceptibility of the house to precipitation and wind becomes different, and the service life of the structure also changes. You can calculate the required slope in size if you use a formula like X \u003d H / (1 / 2L). The height here is the interval between the ceiling and the ridge, that is, the growth of the rafters, and the length means the width of the house.

To recalculate the roof slope as a percentage, it remains only to multiply the result by 100. Elementary trigonometry (arc tangent) will help to convert the calculated figure into degrees. According to this scheme, it is possible to find out the necessary parameters for roofs with one slope, but then it is necessary to take into account the entire length of the span. When the slopes are unequal, the distance is measured from the projection of the ridge onto the floor, and the angles are determined for each plane separately.

If the device is very complex, it has a lot of drops and relief details, a correction is introduced for horizontal projections.

The smallest (11 degrees) slope can only be used in an ideal situation, when the effect of snow and rain is obviously excluded. The level of wind load transmitted to the lower parts of the house will be small, but the snow and ice will not go down on their own. Judging by the recommendations of most manufacturers of metal tiles, the normal operation of the roof in winter conditions is guaranteed only with a slope of at least 14 degrees.

It is not recommended to overestimate the parameters calculated or indicated in the accompanying materials, because this will lead to an increase in material costs, an increase in the windage of the roof being created, and difficulties with drainage.

But the most flat roof has its drawbacks.

After all, a small slope does not allow water to seep through the joints between the sheets and the attachment points, so additional measures will need to be taken.

In winter, there will be more problems with cleaning the roof from snow.– if this is not done or not done enough, it may fail. At small angles of inclination, the crate becomes heavier, it will be more difficult to attach parts to it. And one more drawback - it will not work to make an attic or attic of a large area.

If we consider the gabled roofs, then other difficulties are revealed. So, at an angle of 45 degrees, the snow mass will slide down by itself. But a heavy metal tile can repeat the same maneuver and you will have to strengthen the fastening, attach each element to the crate as carefully as possible. The extremes converge - both with insufficient and with excessive steepness, you will need to lay more sheets. Therefore, angles of 11 and 70 degrees are more theoretically possible than realizable in practice.

For a shed roof, the most practical value is a corridor from 20 to 30 degrees, and for a gable roof, the second figure can reach 45 degrees.

With the outer contour and shape selected, it's time to deal with the knots of the rafters. As a Mauerlat, a square-shaped coniferous timber is usually taken, its side is 10 or 15 cm. The cross section of the bed should be exactly the same, this part is placed at right angles to the bearing walls. A triangular roof structure is assembled from the rafter legs, which takes the brunt of the weather, so special attention should be paid to its creation. Additionally, racks are prepared that are directed along the vertical of the structure, due to which the compression from the ridge diverges evenly along the load-bearing walls.

The length of the ribs at the racks is determined not according to standard standards, but by performing special calculations.

In addition to them, puffs are equipped - these are the horizontal parts of the rafter triangles that prevent the legs from moving arbitrarily under various loads. But puffs are used only when creating hanging rafters, and if they have a solid support, there is no need for this element at all. The redistribution of bending loads from the ridge nodes is carried out by struts. As for the crate, it is made of wooden boards, timber, placed at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the legs of the rafters, and enhances the overall rigidity of the roof.

In addition to these elements, you will need to do:

• skate (the correct joint between the slopes);
• overhang - a detail that goes beyond the contour of the bearing walls by 40 cm and prevents moisture from penetrating their surface;
• fillies - replace the overhang if the ends of the rafters do not allow it to be done.

As for the choice of the number of slopes, it should be done not only for aesthetic reasons.

So, shed roofs are used only where there will be no attics - on small houses, over porches and outbuildings, over utility buildings.

Hipped doors differ from ordinary gable ones in that the pediments seem to be cut off at an angle to the full height. The half-hipped roof is similar to a hip roof, equipped with the same four slopes in the form of a triangle, but the pediments are only partially trimmed. If the main part of the building is round, the roof is made in the form of a dome, but all these options, as well as conical, double-gable, and so on, are much less common than gable and shed roofs.

Calculations

When looking at a roof made of metal, it is found that it is formed by rows and waves (that is, lines directed perpendicular to the plane of the slope). The gap from one row to the next among roofers is called the step of the wave. When the pitch on a tile sheet is 350 mm and six waves, it is called a module. Typical offers on the Russian market include from 1 to 10 modules. You can choose individual sizes, but then the total cost will be much higher.

It is important to remember that for technical reasons, the sheet cannot be shorter than 45 and longer than 700 cm, and all waves and joints necessarily form a monolithic ensemble along the slope.

Having calculated the required number of modules, it is easy to determine how much material will be spent on the roof of one roof. In addition to the base material, you will also need steel strips (each 200 cm long) and steel sheets 200x125 cm, painted in exactly the same way as the tiles. The minimum tilt angle is 11 degrees and the maximum is 70 degrees. Most often, the supplied strips are designed for roofs with a slope of 30 degrees. If this value differs, they are adjusted according to individual requirements defined in the scheme.

Installation methods

Choosing the right type of roof and carefully calculating its parameters is only half the solution. It is important to find out how best to lay the metal tile. This is a reliable material, but if a mistake is made during installation, after a few months all the work will need to be redone again. There are two time-tested installation options: one row and several rows at the same time. Regardless of the path chosen, 2,3 or 4 sheets are assembled into a block, attaching to each other with short self-tapping screws.

Then they are attached to the crate, trying to get as high as possible. Then it will be possible to rotate the block around the central screws, aligning the stacking of sheets for their optimal exposure. If single row mounting is selected, the very first sheet becomes the guide for the entire strip. It is aligned along the cornices and ends of the slopes, and for greater convenience it is attached to a self-tapping screw at the ridge. The second sheet must be placed on the left overlapping the first.

Then these did connect with each other with a screw: it is introduced over the wave under all transverse folds. This method allows you to lay out blocks from a pair or two pairs of sheets. For your information: the sheet that ends each strip is not attached to the base until the next package of metal tiles is leveled. Installation in several rows is significantly different - they work from right to left, but they still level the first sheet, focusing on the cornices and ends. The second fragment of the metal tile should overlap the first, and they are attached to a common self-tapping screw at the ridge in the middle of the sheet.

The joint between the parts of the coating is clamped with screws that are inserted into the top of the wave. The third sheet of the row is placed to the left of the first. To make it easier and more convenient to cover the roof, it is worth starting from the side where there are no bevels and cuts, other details of the roof that would require cutting the sheet. They lay the material, moving towards the oblique skates or towards the valley separating the slopes. The fourth sheet is superimposed on the third and they are connected with short self-tapping screws, but not screwed to the crate (after all, you will still need to adjust the geometry of the laid out block).

Detailed operation guide

Having briefly familiarized yourself with the device of metal roofing and its installation, it's time to find out how all the work should be done in stages. The design of the roofing cake differs depending on whether the roof is insulated or cold.

Rough finish

Apart from the facing layer itself, they are sequentially placed above the warm attic (from top to bottom):

• crate;
• counter-lattice;
• a water-retaining membrane;
• a layer of fire-resistant insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• substrate.

For cold attics, the device is simpler - there is no need for insulation and restricting the movement of steam.

The crate is made from a 5x5 cm timber, an alternative to it are 3.2x10 cm boards. In both versions, the structures are attached to the counter-lattice beam held by the rafters. Thanks to the counter-lattice, not only the mechanical connection of the cake parts is ensured, but also a ventilated space is formed inside it. Therefore, the risk of encountering the accumulation of condensate is reduced.

It is impractical to make a monolithic wood flooring under a metal tile, therefore parts of the crate are mounted at intervals of 35-40 cm. The exact value is determined by the wave pitch. Where the grooves and cornices are located, a boardwalk 14-15 cm wide is fastened. Beforehand, any piece of wood is supposed to be impregnated with antiseptics and fire protection means. Next comes the turn of the waterproofing membrane or film, which must pass steam, not be destroyed by ultraviolet radiation and serve for a long time.

Waterproofing is mounted exclusively in dry weather. If it is raining, it is better to postpone this matter until a more convenient moment.

The rolls are rolled out over each part of the roof, overlapped, moving across the rafters. Laying begins at the eaves, and ends on the ridge. The bottom sheets of waterproofing are brought to the front boards of the cornices. The exact overlap of the film is determined by the angle of the slope, but its minimum value is at least 70 mm. To make the joints tighter, adhesive tape and dispersion materials are used.

A common mistake is to use combustible heaters, relying on special fire retardant impregnations.

Only materials that are not flammable on their own without further treatment should be used. The thickness of the insulation is chosen by conducting a special heat engineering calculation according to the conditions of certain places, but even in the warmest regions of the Russian Federation it is from 15 cm. It is recommended to give preference to plate heaters from leading manufacturers, they are the most reliable and safe.

The slabs are laid inside the rafters in a spacer, they are fixed without additional fasteners, because such structures are elastic. The choice of vapor barrier is also responsible, and the main attention is paid to the density and level of permeability to water vapor. The inner lining is made of boards or plasterboard, this work is started after the installation of other layers is completed.

The load from the roof itself, accumulating snow and moving people is at least 200 kg per 1 sq. m. This circumstance must be taken into account when designing and constructing rafters.

Both cold and warm roofs made of metal tiles are equipped with soundproofing material - it is placed on the crate or in a continuous layer, or in places where the front cover will be fixed.

If the roof slope is from 14 to 20 degrees, the slats can be installed relatively rarely. And when a thin steel profiled sheet is placed on top, an inextricable crate of edged boards is prepared. Their minimum thickness is 3.2 cm, and the installation step is reduced to 1 cm. It is required to nail the rails for the counter-lattice to the rafter legs using galvanized nails. They are driven in every 30 cm. When preparing waterproofing, it is necessary to use membranes that effectively suppress the occurrence of condensate, are fire-safe and resistant to ultraviolet rays.

Construction staplers are used to attach water-resistant membranes to the legs of the rafters. Layers of battens and counter battens are placed above the waterproofing. From fibrous thermal insulation materials to the waterproofing layer, a gap should be left filled only with air. To form it, nails are driven into the edge of the rafters 1 cm from the waterproofing and the mesh is stretched, which is best done from a cord. A concrete screed can help the walls withstand the mass of the roof and additional loads (wind, snow, ice). When the upper floor is large, it is made along all load-bearing walls, not limited to external planes.

Additional reinforcement of the structures is achieved by means of concrete columns raised from the foundation, as well as by props for beams holding the rafters.

The planes of the slopes are brought out perfectly evenly, and if defects are found in them, they should be cut off with a planer. Heavily damaged items should be replaced. When working with rafters, it is required after each manipulation (especially when the slope diagonal is displayed) to check their geometry with a building level. Noticing the bias, it is removed with the help of additional elements.

It happens that the slope (between the ridge beam and the cornice) is more than 6 m. In such cases, the sheets are divided into fragments and they are overlapped. The previous coating from the rafters is completely removed, and after dismantling, the rafters themselves and the crate are checked very carefully so that everything is intact.

In preparation for any roofing work and in the process of laying out the metal tiles, it is impossible to clad the facade, close the gable and perform other work.

Such "saving time" is irrational and only results in additional losses.

The gap between the boards of the lathing should be made in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturers, but not less than 0.6 and not more than 0.9 m. Before work, carefully evaluate the coincidence between the boards or timber, because blocks that differ in size and configuration can damage the roofing . Stuffing the cornice, you should put the extreme strip of boards so that it does not protrude beyond it. Parts thinner than 150 mm cannot be used to guarantee the strength of the rafters and compensate for uneven planes. The membrane film placed on top of the crate must not be attached with nails or self-tapping screws; only adhesive tape is used.

Having finished with the cornice strips, they are engaged in a drain. It is best to buy a custom system from a metal tile supplier to avoid compatibility issues. The first step in installation is to attach the brackets that hold the gutters. Immediately they are engaged in the installation of ventilation grilles on the cornices. Once this is done, the preparatory stage of work can be safely considered completed.

Laying the final material

The technology of fastening metal tiles is much simpler than that of any preparatory work. But it also has its own important subtleties, nuances. Work from the lower corners of each slope. If during the laying process it becomes necessary to adjust the sheets, they are simply cut to the desired size.

The joint between the sheets should be opposite to the line along which the water will flow. If done otherwise, the rain streams will pour inward.

The first row of the coating is laid, carefully watching the ledges - it should be displayed 4 cm further than the eaves. There is no need to accurately measure this distance; an error of a few millimeters will not worsen anything. Subsequent sheets are placed easier and faster, but you will have to concentrate again when it comes to the fragments placed on the skate. It must be remembered that the installation of metal tiles, and the preparatory work is carried out at a height, and this imposes special requirements on the organization of work.

Be sure to use special belts and safety ropes. Before climbing to the roof put on shoes with embossed rubber soles.

• at dusk and at night (even with good electric lighting);
• during rain and until the surface is dry;
• in the fog;
• when the wind is stronger than 15 m / s (even if these are separate gusts).

You need to lift up exactly as much material and tools as you need to work in the next 1-2 hours.

It is better to spend more time climbing and descending than to run into problems due to cluttering up the space. Of course, you should never work on an icy roof. Garbage, defective and damaged parts of the material, dismantled structures, packaging and everything else descend from the roof only by stairs. It is unacceptable to drop them down.

The working tool should be placed where it will not fall. It is very important to ensure that the tools themselves and the extended wires (cables) do not interfere with anyone and do not end up under their feet. Any mechanisms, especially electrical ones, are checked in advance on the ground, and not only before the start of work in general, but also at the beginning of each working day. The integrity and serviceability of the insulation are also carefully checked. Before lifting large sheets up, you need to make sure that there is no strong wind, otherwise they may be damaged.

All work with metal tiles, even unpacking, should be carried out in gloves and overalls, because the edges of any sheet of metal tiles are extremely sharp, and sometimes jagged.

Any instruction for professional builders invariably reminds that this material is slippery., and you should walk on it very carefully, only with a safety belt. If the metal tile is lifted using special mechanisms, it is recommended to check their serviceability before each start. You can not walk and stand under the place of rise and in a certain radius from it (the stronger the wind is within the permissible range, the greater this radius). When unloading packages, they are always lifted, but not pulled out of the stack.

A typical technological map requires not to lift a long shaped sheet by the edges, they are supposed to be held only from the sides. If contaminants are found on the metal tile, they must be removed with household detergents, moreover, as sparingly as possible. Strong mixtures can damage the coating. It is not always possible to use all delivered sheets in one day, so you need to know how they are stored. It is impossible to leave the metal tile in the factory tight packaging, it is folded on inclined bars, as this allows raindrops to leave and evaporate.

Metal tiles covered with plastic should be stored (both in packaging and without it) for a maximum of 14 days. If you want to leave it for a longer time, store the material in the same way as the galvanized type.

Step-by-step instructions for laying sheets of material implies preliminary preparation:

• additional support boards;
• bars for a through output (fire or inspection hatch);
• roof stairs;
• wall stairs, partially led to the roof;
• snow blowers;
• roof bridges.

It is recommended to cut metal tiles to the required size with metal saws and scissors, hand-held electric saws with hard alloy teeth. A grinder with abrasive discs is not only harmful when cutting material, it cannot be used closer than 10 m from the sheet, since flying sparks can damage the tiles. If you are going to fix the coating, its surface must be freed from chips, fasteners and rivets. The mounted metal tile is painted with paints suitable for metal at the cornices themselves. The same paints are applied to the edges of the cuts and to all scratches that accidentally appear.

A feature of sheets of the 1/1025 format is that some of them are equipped with an auxiliary transverse bend, which simplifies installation and blocks the spread of the material. On roofs of complex configuration, such a coating can only be laid after careful measurements, while the required length of the sheets should be calculated by professionals.

When working on a hipped roof, cut blocks cannot be placed on opposite slopes, since they have a transverse pattern.

If you have to step on the laid sheets of metal tiles, it is advisable to walk in places where the crate is placed.

It is impossible to properly cover the roof with this material, if you do not check whether the transverse folds are properly joined after the installation of each block.

• 0.48x5;
• 0.48x6.5;
• 0.48x8 cm.

A special role belongs to screws with dimensions of 4.8x28 mm. They are necessary to attach the coating in the lower parts of the waves, at the cornices, in overlaps. They are also recommended to fix the straps. Not all fasteners of a certain size are suitable for the job, in this case it is recommended to use screws with a sealing layer of EPDM rubber. For your information: it is categorically wrong to use nails, because they are less reliable than screws.

A big mistake is to tighten the fasteners to the stop - in this case, the surface may become dented.

Driving screws by hand is impractical and tedious. An electric drill helps to simplify the work, which has the functions of smooth speed adjustment and can operate in reverse mode. Shaped sheets lead at an inclination of 1: 4, and trapezoidal sheets must be installed at an angle of 1: 7. Some manufacturers refuse responsibility if the profile is placed on a roof with a smaller slope. For a folded roof of the classical type, you need to make a slope of at least 1: 12.

Gable planks are attached from the sides to the gable boards, and at the top they are attached to the metal tile. The fasteners are placed at a distance of 80 cm from each other, the mutual overlap of the gable planks is 10 cm. Before installing the ridge shaped strip, it is supposed to fix the end caps with rivets. The overlap is 13 cm, for smooth structures - 3 cm less. From two to five ridge bars are connected into a single block with screws and placed along the ridge.

Next, the joints between the bar and the profile sheet are sealed. The ridge elements themselves are pierced with screws through the seals to the sheets along the top of the waves (they go through one wave). The skate adjacent to the slope is best done like this: the end is cut off under the slope and mounted tightly under the sheet.

To seal shaped ridge elements, it is recommended to take a self-adhesive connection of the “Top-Roll” type.

There is nothing complicated in all these works. You just need to be careful and careful.

Even with a complete understanding of the standard work technology, you can make serious mistakes or miss an opportunity to reduce costs and simplify work.

According to experts, high-quality ventilation of the space under a metal roof meets three requirements:

• a gap from waterproofing to the metal itself is provided;
• air flows freely through the eaves;
• nothing prevents him from passing through the area under the ridge.

Only by fulfilling these conditions, it is possible to guarantee stable insulation of the attic or attic.

Before work, check the timber and boards. It should not show signs of mechanical damage or insect attack.

Do not take material with deep cracks or poorly dried wood. All nails must be made from stainless steel grades. The required length is determined by doubling the thickness of the crate.

If you have to join the boards together, you need to bring the border to the rafters whenever possible.

Adjacent horizontal rows are set so that the joints are mutually offset. Self-tapping screws, with which sheets of metal tiles are screwed, are placed at least 6-8 pieces per 1 sq. m, because the coating is heavy and it must be thoroughly pressed against the support. When making a tiled roof for a warm attic, it is advisable to install the windows of the living room on the crate held by the rafters. If the windows are very large, it is better to attach them directly to the rafters.

Waterproofing membranes with increased diffusion are placed on the insulation without gaps, and an anti-condensate film should be placed at intervals. Between two adjacent rafters, the film can sag a maximum of 20 mm (with a maximum distance of 120 cm). If the crate is made of wood, you need to put an anti-condensation film under the counter-crate. This will optimize ventilation from the coating sheet to the film. When a gutter is created, the installation of the eaves is preceded by the placement of the gutter holders. And the cornice itself should end at the level of a third of the gutter coming from the wall.

To connect the eaves to the crate is supposed to be self-drilling screws with a flat top. You need to join two cornices with an incursion of 5-10 cm. You can hem the cornice overhangs of the roof itself with a profiled sheet, metal siding or facade panels.

It is strictly forbidden to fix the metal tile in the upper deflections of the waves, as well as to use a hammer to fix the self-tapping screws.

The lower valley is fastened to the clamps, and at least 10 cm should remain from the end of the sheet to the lowest point of the valley.

The upper valley is mounted after the layout of the metal tile is completed. To do this, use roofing screws that stick into the tops of the waves in increments of 20 ... 30 cm. In this case, it is unacceptable to violate the lower valley. When attaching the gables, they try to cover the upper deflections of the waves. The ridge and metal tiles are separated with polyurethane foam, and the ends of the ridge element must be covered with a decorative plug. Joints must be treated with sealants.

Wall profiles are necessarily used where the roof fits not only to the walls, but also to various pipes and dormer windows.

They are applied to the metal tile and attached to problematic elements. At the level of the cornice, after the second strip of the crate, various fences are mounted. Their type and specific execution are determined by the slope of the roof and the type of tile. For connection, it is recommended to use self-drilling bolts with an external zinc layer (5.5x25 mm for metal and 5.5x60 for wood).

It is unacceptable to fasten the fence to only one metal tile.

Bolts are used to tie the enclosing structures together. Snow-retaining elements are placed in the deflection of the wave, they are fixed through the tiles and the sealing gasket to the crate itself. In the places provided for this, crate profiles are made in advance with a step of 12 cm (it is counted along the axes of the profiles).

Snow guards should be mounted above the fence, and if the slope is longer than 10 m, it is advisable to use their pairs.

You can watch the installation process of metal tiles in the video below.

Do not forget to remove the protective film immediately after installation, if any.

During installation, you should carefully walk on the metal tile in soft shoes (or in shoes with soft soles). When walking on profiled sheets, one should step in the places of the crate. When walking along the sheet - step into the deflection of the wave, across the fold of the profile.

General rules for fastening metal tiles (Fig. 62):

• the sheet is attached to the deflection of the wave at the points of contact with the crate;
• to the initial lath, the lower sheets are attached above the step through the wave;
• to the rest of the laths, the sheets are attached as close as possible to the step from below;
• from the side of the end board, sheets are attached to each wave;
• all sheets should be pulled to each lath;
• in places of overlapping of sheets for fixing a vertical overlap, the sheets are fastened together with short self-tapping screws (19 mm) in the recession of the wave.

rice. 62. Rules for fixing metal tiles

In other words, the screws must be tightened tightly, but without completely crushing the gasket. Along the perimeter of the slope, fasteners are placed in the deflection of each wave. Further fastening is carried out to each lath with a staggered arrangement of self-tapping screws. The maximum approach to the wave step makes them invisible, as they are in the shadow. It is better to screw the screws into the overlap of the metal tile at an angle, so the sheets are better pulled together. The average consumption of roofing screws is 6-8 pieces per square meter and 3 pieces per linear meter of accessories on each side.

The use of non-galvanized self-tapping screws, self-tapping screws without washers with EPDM rubber lead to the penetration of moisture into the under-roof space, corrosion of profiled sheets and a decrease in fastening strength. Incorrect fastening of self-tapping screws - to loosening of the fastening, loose fit of the sheets to each other and the formation of a noticeable seam.

Accessories are attached to each transverse wave with a step of 350 mm or in the longitudinal one through one wave to the upper ridge. To tighten self-tapping screws, it is best to use a screwdriver or drill in low-speed chuck rotation mode.

To cut metal tiles, use a hacksaw or a jigsaw with a metal blade. Cutting with hand scissors or punching electric scissors is allowed. Do not use angle grinders with an abrasive wheel (grinder) - the coating loses its anti-corrosion properties due to burning through the coating and sticking of metal chips to the surface.

The use of a grinder with an abrasive wheel for cutting profiled products with a polymer coating leads to the burning of the galvanized layer at the cut point, as a result of which the corrosion rate at the cut increases and the polymer coating peels off, corrosion of metal particles adhering to the sheet after cutting, blackening of the polymer.

Use spray cans to touch up cuts, scuffs, damage to the polymer coating formed during the installation process.

Between the sheets of metal tiles in places of overlap during rain, a capillary effect may occur - when moisture seeps out, rising between tightly pressed sheets above the level of water flow. In order to avoid this effect, a capillary groove is made on all sheets of metal tiles, which provides free flow of water that has fallen under the sheet or water formed on the inner surface of the sheet as a result of condensation of water vapor. The metal tile is produced both with a double and with a single capillary groove, both on the left and on the right side. The capillary groove of each sheet must be covered by the next sheet.

With multi-row laying, up to four sheets with a thickness of 0.4–0.5 mm are joined. Superimposed on each other in one row, they receive an ever-increasing displacement, up to 3 cm on a ten-meter cornice. Therefore, it is advisable to lay the metal tile with a slight turn counterclockwise (clockwise - for sheets with a capillary groove on the right), trying to the corners of the sheets in one row were on the same straight line. The amount of sheet displacement during rotation is 2 mm. If the sheets are stacked in long panels, but in one row (without joints along the height of the slope), then no turns of the sheets need to be done.

Laying of sheets is carried out after placing the first sheet both to the left of it and to the right. The main criterion for choosing a direction is ease of installation. They start from the side where there are no bevels, cuts, or the need to cut the sheet, and they are laid in the direction of the junction of another slope, that is, to an oblique ridge or to a valley between the slopes.

During installation, the sheet covers one wave of the previous sheet, closing the capillary groove. When stacking with slipping a sheet, in order to close the capillary groove, the edge of the next sheet is placed under the wave of the previous one. This makes laying a little easier, as the sheet is fixed with another sheet, preventing the last sheet from slipping, however, with this laying option, there is a high probability of damage to the coating.

No matter how complex the slope geometry is, the sheets are aligned strictly horizontally along the cornice line with an overhang recommended by the tile manufacturer. General rule: metal tiles are assembled into a block of 2–4 sheets (sheets are fastened together with short self-tapping screws) and fastened to the crate as high as possible with one self-tapping screw. Thus, it becomes possible to rotate the entire block relative to this self-tapping screw and align the sheets along the cornice and the side edge of the slope.

rice. 63. The sequence of laying sheets of metal tiles in one row

When laying sheets in one row (Fig. 63), place the first sheet, align it with the cornice and the end of the slope, temporarily attach it with one self-tapping screw at the ridge (in the center of the sheet), then lay the second sheet on the side, align with the first, fasten the sheets together. If it seems that the sheets do not “join”, you should first lift the sheet above the other, and then, slightly tilting the sheet and moving it from bottom to top, lay fold after fold and fasten it with a screw along the top of the wave under each transverse fold. Thus, lay three or four sheets, fastening them together, align the block of sheets along the cornice line (do not forget about the overhang) and fix the sheets to the crate. Do not fasten the last sheet in the row until you have unfolded and aligned the next block of sheets.

When mounting sheets in several rows (Fig. 64), lay the first sheet from right to left, align it along the cornice and along the end, then lay the second sheet (on top of the first), fix it temporarily with one self-tapping screw at the ridge in the center of the sheet, align the sheets and fasten them between self-tapping screws. The junction of the upper and lower sheets is fixed with screws into the top of the wave through the wave. Lay the third sheet to the left of the first, fasten the sheets together, then lay the fourth sheet over the third. The sheets are interconnected by short self-tapping screws in the upper part of the overlap so that they are not screwed to the crate and can turn together relative to the self-tapping screw holding the sheet at the roof ridge. Align the entire block to the cornice and end, and then finally attach the sheets to the crate. After laying and fixing the first block of four sheets, the next block is unfolded and fixed to it.

rice. 64. The sequence of laying sheets of metal tiles in several rows (two options)

Another mounting option is also possible. Lay the first sheet, align it with the cornice and the end of the slope, temporarily attach it with one self-tapping screw in the upper part (in the center of the sheet), then lay the second sheet on the side, align with the first, fasten the sheets together. Lay the third sheet on top of the first and fasten the sheets together. Align the entire block with the eaves and the end of the slope, turning it around if necessary around the self-tapping screw screwed into the first sheet. After leveling, fix the entire block and mount the following sheets of metal tiles to it.

When aligning a block of 3-4 sheets that are stapled together, you may need to rotate them slightly. Due to the fact that the block rests on one screw, it is not recommended to connect more than four sheets into a block. In addition, a large number of sheets will make the block too heavy not only for the self-tapping screw, but also for those who work.

When laying sheets on a triangular slope (Fig. 65), before starting installation, it is necessary to mark the center of the slope and draw an axis through it. Then mark the same axis on the sheet and combine the axes on the ramp and sheet. Fasten the sheet with one self-tapping screw at the ridge. From it, on both sides, continue the installation according to the principles described in the previous versions.

rice. 65. The sequence of laying sheets of metal tiles on hip roofs

On triangular slopes, in valleys, on oblique ridges, cutting sheets is necessary. To conveniently mark the sheets, you can build the so-called "devil". You need to take four boards, lay two of them parallel to each other and fasten them with the remaining two boards across. The mount should be hinged, not rigid. The distance between the inner side of the left board and the outer side of the right board is made equal to the working width of the roofing sheet - 1100 mm. To work with the tool, the sheet to be cut is placed on the already mounted one, the “devil” is placed on the roof ridge or in the valley with one side, and the cut line is drawn on the other. When marking the cutting line, the transverse boards "dash" must be located strictly horizontally.

Sheets on the valleys are marked in the same way. After mounting the whole sheet on top of it, we lay the sheet that needs to be cut. We install the "devil" by turning the hinged boards. The inner side of the vertical plank should lie on the valley and the cross planks should be set horizontally. If these conditions are met, we draw a marking line on an unfixed sheet. The marking line is drawn along the outer side of another vertical board not lying on the valley. We remove the sheet, cut it according to the markup and lay it next to the fixed sheet. Installation of the following sheets is carried out in the same way.

Installation of through exits to the roof should be carried out using pass-through elements that ensure the tightness of the passages. For these purposes, special feed-through elements, such as Vilpe, are optimally suited, they are mounted in accordance with the instructions attached to them. The points of passage through the hydro, heat and vapor barrier must be sealed with adhesive tape, the joints between the elements must be filled with silicone sealant. Usually tapes and sealant are included in the grommet kit.

The design of the protruding dormer windows (short valleys) is similar to the design of the joints of the slopes. First, the lower valleys are laid (Fig. 66), then the tiles, then the upper valleys. Since there is a high probability of moisture getting between the upper valley and the metal tile on the slope of the dormer window, it is necessary to lay a universal or self-expanding porous sealant in the assembly. The lower valleys extend slightly beyond the gable line to ensure water flow. The upper valleys are cut.

rice. 66. Decoration of short valleys with metal roofing

Articles are built on the basis of normative documents and instructions of manufacturers of roofing material.

This article is devoted to a detailed description of the assembly process of this roofing. To facilitate your task, we also place a detailed video instruction for the installation of metal tiles.

1. To achieve a high-quality result, make sure that the roof surface of the building is even before work. To do this, check if it has the correct shape and dimensions. Correct any defects as necessary.
2. For this purpose, it is necessary to measure from corner to corner of the diagonal of the slopes. When they do not match in length, this means that the roof is skewed. If it cannot be straightened, then lay the roofing material in such a way that the lower edge of the lathing coincides with the overhang line of the tiles. End warp can be closed.
3. The minimum should be 14º if the length of the slopes is 7 m.
4. Any rigid topcoat that has been laid early must be completely removed.
5. Hooks for fixing the gutters of the drain must be installed even before the start of roofing work and fasten them only with galvanized screws.
6. Individual elements must be mounted in sequence from bottom to top.
7. To prevent the accumulation of moisture and its seepage into the top layer of thermal insulation, you need to use a waterproofing film.
8. To protect the insulation from vapors emanating from the interior, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier.

The need for ventilation of the under-roof space, i.e. – the organization of ventilation depends on the following factors:

• Degrees of humidity of external and internal air;
• Temperature differences between roof structures and outdoor air;
• The level of tightness of the roof and its base;
• The thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

Note! Recommendations for the installation of metal tiles indicate that the waterproofing carpet must be laid, going from the eaves to the ridge and overlapping. Under the ridge, it is necessary to make a ventilation gap of at least 5 cm so that moisture evaporates freely. This is especially important if the attic is warm. The crate must be mounted in such a way that the air passes without problems from the cornice to the roof ridge.

Ventilation openings must be equipped on the highest section of the roof.

Warehouses, as well as unheated attics, must be ventilated through the end windows. In especially important rooms, ventilation must be forced.

Handling of metal tiles

1. Loading and unloading of roofing material must be done carefully so as not to expose its surface to mechanical damage.
2. Carry out the transfer and lifting of the metal tile only by grasping its edges along the length and always in tight gloves.
3. Sheets can be cut with a hacksaw and metal shears or an electric saw with carbide teeth.
4. Cut edges, as well as found chips and damage to the protective layer, must be painted over with a special paint to protect the metal from corrosion.
5. It is strictly forbidden to use an angle grinder (grinder) with abrasive discs for cutting sheets.
6. Metal shavings formed during roofing should be carefully removed with a soft brush. If the surface of the coating has been contaminated, then wash off this dirt with a mild detergent composition. Do not use cleaning products containing abrasives, as well as solvent-based substances.
7. To clean ice and snow from a metal roof, it is strongly not recommended to use a crowbar, scraper or snow shovel. This will cause damage to the coating and significantly reduce its service life.
8. When you install metal tiles with your own hands - the video material shows this, wear shoes with soft soles to walk on profiled sheets. Step only into the deflections of the waves, into the areas under which the bars of the crate are located. It is undesirable to walk on the ridges of the profiles - this will lead to deformation of thin sheets.

Measurement and calculation of sheets

The length of the sheets is usually taken as the length of the slopes. When they have protrusions, then the pitch must also be taken into account (with 40 cm being type No. 1, and 35 cm being types No. 2 and No. 3), so that the patterns of the tiles coincide in the areas of transition to sheets with a different length.

Note! If the slope has a stepped shape or its length is more than 6 meters, then sheets of different lengths can be used for roofing. When laying two or more sheets on a slope, consider the overlap length of 13 cm. If your case is exceptional, inform the manufacturer of the additional overlap when ordering tiles.

Sheet type 1/1025 (usable width in millimeters) in some of the lengths has an additional transverse bend. This simplifies installation and also prevents the edge of the sheet from spreading.

Take this circumstance into account when ordering tiles of this type, which have different lengths and are intended for the same slope.

When the roof has a complex configuration, or you decide to use sheets with a usable width of 1025mm, it is necessary to carefully measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof.

You can calculate the number of sheets in this way: the length of the cornice is divided by the useful width of the material and rounded up to the full unit (multiplied by the number of slopes). In this case, the useful width of the last of the slope sheets is equal to its full width.

When measuring a hipped roof, please note that the cut profiled sheet cannot be used on the opposite slope, due to the pattern, which has a transverse corrugation.

Flooring waterproofing material

As our video shows - a metal tile: its installation must be preceded by a flooring of a waterproofing film. It will prevent condensation from settling on the roof structures.

Spread the panels with an overlap, move in the direction of the ridge, and start from the place of the cornice overhang.

You can attach the film to the rafters using a construction stapler. The overlap of the panels should be 15 cm.

Note! It is not necessary to pull the material between the rafters too much. Leave about 2/3cm of free-hanging camber. On both sides of the tent ridge, approximately 15 cm of the film should be stretched into the bend.

Lay the waterproofing in the area of ​​​​the cornice overhang so that the accumulated condensate does not fall on the wall structures, and the air flow passes without problems to the upper sections of the flooring.

In the area of ​​the gable overhang, lay the film at a distance of 20 cm from the extreme point of the wall structures.

The crate must be nailed over the waterproofing layer. At a minimum, the thickness of its boards should be 3.2 × 5 cm.

Arrangement of ventilation of the crate and flooring

On top of the waterproofing film, along the rafters, nail the ventilation slats (counter-batten) so that the air flow from the eaves can freely pass between the decking and the roofing material.

Humid air must be removed from the eaves through the ridge ventilation element or. If the skate has a short structure - up to 10 meters, then the air flow must go through the shaped skate, through its end.

The section of the eaves overhang must ensure unhindered passage of air flow in the direction from the eaves to the under-roof ventilation gap. Further, the air should leave through the wind windows of the attic.

Our instruction for the installation of metal tiles recommends that in structures in which the heat-insulating material is laid in the direction along the slopes up to the ridge, the waterproofing should not be pulled up to the ridge and a gap of about 10 cm should be left uncovered around it.

The ingress of moisture into the building, in this case, should be prevented by a ventilated seal of a special additional element, for example, a Top-Roll ridge or a special ventilation ridge.

To prevent water from penetrating the crate, attach a strip of waterproofing material under the ridge. On gable and hipped four-pitched roofs, the ventilation ridge is placed in the same way.

The lower ventilation gap (under the flooring), throughout the entire length of the structure, must be equal to at least 10 cm.

Lathing installation

Below are the basic rules for assembling the crate:

1. When choosing the thickness of the boards for it, take into account the height of the tile profiles and the length of the fasteners corresponding to it (if the fastening will occur from the top of the profile waves).
2. At a minimum, the cross section of the boards of the structure should be 3.2 × 10 cm.
3. The board that goes to the eaves should be thicker than the rest. If you collect shaped tiles, types 2 and 3, then 1 cm thicker, if sheets, type 1, then 1.5 cm.
4. The step of mounting the boards of the crate (for shaped roofing material) must be a multiple of the dimensions of the sheets.
5. Attach the structure to the rafters with hot-dip galvanized nails measuring 2.8×75mm. Their consumption is 2 pieces per 1 cross.

Note! As the video “installation of metal tiles: instruction-video” shows, the ridge should not be nailed, it is necessary to leave a sufficient ventilation gap.

As necessary, install additional support bars and boards for through exits - for a fire hatch, ventilation truss, chimney, etc.

When mounting two or more sheets, use a beam under the seam.

Laying sheets of metal

1. When working, move carefully over the tiles, because they may not withstand heavy loads. Walking along the profile sheets, step on the crate: along - into the deflections of the waves, across - on the folds of the profiles.
2. It should be borne in mind that when assembling the coating, the capillary grooves of the sheets must be covered with the sheets following them.
3. You can start laying the material both left / right, and vice versa. When installing the coating from the right edge, the edge of the next sheet should be placed under the last of the waves of the previous sheet (that is, the capillary groove is located on the wave of its right edge). This simplifies assembly and prevents the last of the sheets from slipping due to its transverse corrugation.
4. Place the material along the cornice line so that it protrudes from it by 4 / 4.5 cm.
5. Start work by making the first of the sheets with one self-tapping screw, in the middle (near the ridge), in the deflection of the wave.
6. Next, lay the second metal tile. Fasten the overlap with a screw along the top of the wave, under the first of its transverse folds. Make sure that all cross folds fit properly and that the bottom edge forms a straight line.
7. Fix both sheets overlapping each other with self-tapping screws, under each of the transverse folds.
8. Fasten 3/4 sheets together in a similar way, then align their bottom edge with a construction cord along the cornice line.
9. An important note on how to join sheets of metal tiles: only by doing this, you can finally attach the metal to the crate.
10. Carry out the laying of subsequent sheets by attaching the element first to the previous sheet and only then to the crate.

Material fixing

Desirable sizes of self-tapping screws: 4.8×50 mm, 4.8×65 mm or 4.8×80 mm if fastening takes place along the upper part of the wave. Screws with dimensions of 4.8 × 28 mm are used when fixing sheets along the bottom of the wave, as well as at cornices, in overlaps and for fastening all planks.

You should not use nails, because screws are twice as reliable when fastening.

Note! Another tip on how to properly screw the metal tile: in order not to leave dents on the coating, do not tighten the screws too tightly. To screw them in, it is best to use an electric drill that has smooth speed control and reverse.

The average consumption of self-tapping screws during operation is 6 pieces per 1 m² of coating.

Valley processing

First, let's talk about the usual internal groove. Its V-shaped bar is mounted according to the following scheme:

• Start the installation by laying the waterproofing film along the groove and fasten it to the rafters. Only then the waterproofing is laid over the area of ​​​​the entire roof.
• Lay the ventilation bars, with a section of 3.2 × 5 cm, on the slope, while leaving about 5 cm to the support node.
• Start knocking down the wooden grooves from this support node, from the gap left, using boards with a section of 3.2 × 10 cm.
• Then mount the crate for adjacent slopes with a step that will match the size of the tiles.
• Fix with several self-tapping screws from the cornice in the areas where the groove adjoins the downed crate. The overlap of the planks under the groove should be at least 20 cm. Seal the seams with sealant.
• Next, screw the sheets to the mounted crate. Do not forget to lay the seal between them and the groove strips.

Important information on how the metal roof tile is laid: the gap between the edges of the profiled sheets (near the groove) should be about 20 cm.

Now we should talk about the device of the internal groove in the areas of junction of the main slopes and protruding structures.

The installation rules are as follows:

1. Position the profiled sheet from the cornice and along the main slope, so that its upper edge is 40 cm above the lower edge of the groove.
2. Align the edge of this groove with the eaves of the slope adjoining it. Next, fix the metal with self-tapping screws at the junction points of the additional element to the crate. The wing of the groove, which will lie on the main slope, must be brought onto the previously mounted cover sheet.
3. And the last, how the metal tile-valley is mounted. Lay the profiled sheets of slopes, not forgetting to draw a groove line.

About through exits to the roof

Additional elements designed for through exits to the roof are made of durable types of plastic. At the same time, their color and shape must be selected in full accordance with those of metal tiles.

The installation of these parts is simplified as much as possible. It is almost impossible to break the general pattern of the roofing.

The supplied thru-lead kits always include detailed installation instructions. All emerging gaps and cracks between the additional element and the roofing must be carefully sealed. To do this, you can use standard building moisture-resistant sealing compounds.

Sewer hoods and ventilation pipes are fastened with passage elements. Mounting the fire hatch must be carried out according to the instructions attached to it.

Advice! When metal tiles are being installed, the video instruction recommends installing through exits as close as possible to the ridge or upper eaves. Around the ventilation lance / pipe, fire hatch, support bars are installed and, as necessary, additional boards (solid wooden flooring). All emerging joints must be carefully sealed.

The overlap of the bases of the ventilation lance and the fire hatch with the roof sheets must be done in the same way as between the elements of the coating.

The set of through outlets (ventilation system outlets, VILPE ​​fans, air cleaners, sewage) includes a seal, a base with a seal, as well as a seal for roof penetration made of weather-resistant EPDM rubber.

The instructions for the additional element contain recommendations for their installation.

It should be borne in mind that increased snow loads on the output should not be allowed. Snow should be removed as needed. If the gap from the ridge to the exit is more than 1 meter, it is advisable to place a snow catcher above it.

Snow retention

• For greater safety of the roof operation, it is recommended to install snow catchers in areas of possible snow masses.
• These additional elements are placed in place of the load-bearing structures of the wall.
• Before laying the sheets of metal, lay along the slope, in parallel, additional support bars or boards, for example 5x10cm, to fasten the base of the snow catcher.
• Screw the four mounting bases of the element to the support bar. Mount them 75cm apart along the bottom of the wave, using 8mm screws or bolts with a washer.
• Lay a 3×30 sealing tape between the roofing sheet and the fixing base.
• Attach oval or round snow catcher tubes (2 pieces per set) to the bases and fix their edges with 0.8x3.5cm remotes.

About the seal

For shaped sheets of metal tiles, the smallest angle of inclination is 1:4, for trapezoidal analogues - 1:7. When using these coatings on flat roofs, when the sounded slopes are less than the recommended values, it is desirable to compact the vertical and horizontal overlaps.

Fasten the sealing elements with galvanized nails. After that, you can put the ridge bar.

Fastening of the gable and ridge slats

1. Fix the gable plank on the board, just above the crate - to the height of the sheet. Do this with roofing screws, in increments of about 80cm. The overlap of the planks should be approximately 10cm.
2. Before installing the ridge shaped strip, rivet the end cap. The overlap of these planks should be 13 cm, for smooth analogues - 10 cm.
3. Connect with screws, 4.8 × 28 mm in size, along the edge of 3/4 of the plank between themselves and align in the direction of the ridge.
4. Lay the sealant between the plank and the roofing sheet.
5. Screw the ridge strip with self-tapping screws through the seal to the tiles along the top of every second of the waves. If the skate is adjacent to the slope, cut the end of the bar under it and place it close under the sheet.
6. A self-adhesive sealant can be used under the ridge shaped strip. Before installing it, fasten an additional plank on the crests of the rafters, for mounting the seal, so that the edge of the board protrudes slightly beyond the edges of the covering sheets. Lay a sealant on top of the board and fix it with rivets or nails to the ridge plank. Remove the protective film from the edges of the self-adhesive seal and press them into the shape of the profiled sheet.
7. You can buy end caps for the ridge shaped strip, as well as ends for a hipped roof, T- and Y-shaped ridge additional elements that can be fastened under the ridge with screws.

Docking and cornice strips

We continue to describe the installation: metal tile - a video about adjoining the wall can help you understand this issue more thoroughly.

At material interfaces with vertical surfaces (walls, parapets, pipes, etc.), fasten the appropriate strips using screws. Use a self-adhesive sealant between the cover sheet and the additional element.

The docking bar must be bent under the slope of the roof and fastened to the sheets along the top of every second of the waves. If the material is trapezoidal, then the fastening step should be 40 cm.

The wall edge of the plank must remain under the wall cladding. When joining with a brick or stone wall, this edge of the additional element must be brought into the "otter" and sealed with a special sealing compound. Be sure to ensure that there is sufficient ventilation at the junction of the roof and wall.

Observe the overlapping of the planks along their length of 10 cm.

To additionally seal these adjoining elements, use construction silicone sealant. Equip chimney linings with smooth sheets that have the same color as the tiles

The cornice strip directs the flow of water into the gutter, and also prevents it from getting on the cornice boards. As the installation instructions for metal tiles show - a video lesson, before installing its sheets, it is necessary to attach the cornice strip to the bottom of the crate with galvanized nails.

The fastening step should be 30cm. Overlap the planks on top of each other by 5 cm. You can also lay a sealant between them and the tiles.