Fold a brick oven with a stove. How to fold a small brick oven with your own hands to give the simplest. Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

The construction of a brick oven is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. You can build it with your own hands, but in this case you should be extremely careful and strictly follow the bricklaying scheme (order). If for you, this is the first laying of a brick oven with your own hands, then it is better to get detailed advice from a specialist or lay out the oven under his guidance.

Choosing a brick oven

In large private houses and cottages, boilers with water heating are most often used for heating. For heating buildings with 2-3 living quarters, it is enough to build a brick oven. It not only keeps heat much longer, but also creates a special microclimate in the room and can become a real decoration of the house. However, a brick oven also has a significant drawback: this structure is very overall and takes up too much space.

There are several types of brick ovens:
in the rating of such structures Swede deservedly takes first place; it is compact, has a hob and is equipped with three-channel shield(a heat exchanger that allows you to keep heat for a long time, in the form of a wall with chimneys inside, can simultaneously act as a load-bearing wall or be located separately); their varieties include the designs of Kuznetsov, Buslaev, etc.;

The appearance of the Swedish stove and the construction of a wall with a three-channel shield

Despite its name, dutch oven With vertical chimneys(channels in which heat is stored and through which smoke is removed) was invented by Russian craftsmen; has a high heat transfer; usually has 2 channels: summer and winter, which makes it easier to kindle after a long break; in the classic versions, the hob is not provided, however, there are variations of stoves with both a built-in fireplace and a hob;

Classic Dutch stove with vertical chimneys

Chimneys with vertical (like the Dutch) and horizontal arrangement of channels

Russian stove keeps heat for a very long time: up to 2-3 days; has a gas threshold (a wall between the chamber and the mouth of the furnace); it warms up for a very long time, and it takes up plenty of space, its dimensions are such that several people can fit on its couch at the same time; that is why in recent years such designs have been used quite rarely.

Russian stove

By wall thickness all furnaces are divided into:

Thin-walled: in one brick, ideal for country houses;

Thick-walled: erected in premises intended for permanent residence, they store heat for a long time;

Combined: thick walls are laid out only in the firebox; the chimney has thin walls.

Single and double bell ovens Kuznetsova is one of the most common variations of the Swedish oven. Unlike conventional canal, the exit of hot gases through the chimneys is carried out not only due to draft, but also in a natural way due to the special design of the smoke channels. The smoke in them first rises up, and when it cools down it goes down. Since there is much less heat leakage in them (after all, warm air cannot find a way out until it cools down), such furnaces are able to store heat for a long time.

Scheme of a bell-shaped chimney

A brick oven may not have a finish or be sewn up with metal, plastered, laid out with ceramic tiles or facing stone, or laid under jointing (with sealing and giving the seams a special shape).

Furnace jointing

Furnace finishes

Do you need a foundation for the stove?

Brick is a fairly heavy material. The weight of the folded furnace can reach 8-10 tons, so the foundation for the furnace needs to be solid. Otherwise, due to movements in the soil and its expansion during freezing, cracks may form in it or it may completely collapse. Sometimes, for more uniform shrinkage, if there are several stoves or fireplaces in the house, separate bases are made not only for them, but also for the root (located in a separate area) chimney.

Foundation for the furnace

Since the subsidence of the soil under the stove and the house will be different, the foundation for such a structure should be built separately from the base of the building itself. Between the main and furnace foundations, a gap of 50 mm is necessarily made, which is filled with sand.

If the furnace is being erected in an already built building, it is allowed to install a structure weighing up to 1200 kg (300-350 bricks) on the floor panel. On a wooden floor, it is permissible to erect structures up to 700 kg.

The best base for a massive heating furnace is concrete. For cement M400, the ratio of cement, sand and gravel will be 1:3:5. When using the M250 brand, the proportions change: 1:2:4. The depth of the concrete pad depends on the weight of the furnace, the density of the soil and the depth of soil freezing. In each region of Russia, it will be different (see photo).

Soil freezing depth

1. The foundation should protrude from the edges of the furnace in each direction by a brick (10-15 cm). At the firebox, this distance can be slightly larger - up to 30 cm.

2. The bottom of the pit prepared for the foundation is rammed. Then a layer of waterproofing is laid on it.

3. Before laying the mortar in the pit, a 10-centimeter crushed stone pillow and 15 cm of rubble stone are poured into the pit. All the free space between the stones is also filled with rubble and poured with mortar.

5. So that the solution does not crack during the drying process, it is poured into the pit in layers, and each layer must withstand at least a day.

6. After the formwork is removed, the resulting gaps are filled with sand, spilled with water and carefully compacted.

Laying the foundation for the furnace at the stage of building construction

Important! A massive furnace should be erected only after the solution has completely solidified. The foundation gains 50% strength after 15 days. The final hardening occurs only after 28 days.

masonry tools

For work you will need:

Trowel for scooping and laying mortar; the tool with the handle slightly shifted to the side is most convenient to use;

Pickaxe or pickaxe hammer: for tees of undersized bricks;

Bulgarian with a diamond blade for sawing them into halves and quarters;

Mallet with a rubber tip for tamping bricks in laying;

Twisted cord-mooring;

Plumb for checking vertical surfaces;

Building level;

A square with which the corners will be aligned;

Roulette.

Furnace masonry tools

To align walls and corners, you can use a mooring cord and a metal corner

Masonry mortar

The cement mixture under the influence of high temperatures quickly cracks, therefore, only clay-sand mortar. For the installation of a pipe passing through the attic, lime or lime-cement mortar is used. The cement-sand mixture is used only for laying pipes above the roof.

The ratio of clay and sifted sand is selected experimentally. It depends on the type of clay. Most often, mixtures of 1: 2 or 1: 3 are used. Moreover, the fatter the clay, the less it should be in the solution. First, the clay is soaked, filtered through a sieve, and only then sand is added.

The solution should have the consistency of a fairly thick sour cream. The viscosity of the mixture can be determined as follows. A wooden stick or trowel is lowered into the solution and shaken. If a layer less than 2 mm thick remains on it, clay is added, more than 3 mm, sand is added. Too greasy mortar will lead to cracking of the masonry seam, with a lack of clay, sand will spill out of the seams.

Secrets of brickwork

It is better to lay out the oven from refractory fireclay bricks. To save money, you can lay out only a firebox for them, but use ordinary silicate for the rest of the furnace. However, it is not recommended to combine them in one bundle, as well as bricks from different manufacturers: with temperature differences, the degree of their expansion will be different, so such a furnace can “lead”. Weak hollow brick for masonry is not used.

Types, sizes and weight of bricks

1. For the installation of furnaces, orders are used: detailed diagrams that indicate the process of laying each row. The location of fireclay refractory bricks in the furnace in such schemes is indicated by hatching or highlighted in color. It is strongly not recommended to change the order unnecessarily: deviations in the scheme can lead to a narrowing of the flue channels.

Laying fireclay for fireboxes and chimneys and silicate bricks

2. Before laying bricks, 2 layers are placed on the base waterproofing: roofing felt or roofing felt impregnated with mastic. To protect the solution from dehydration, the brick is first soaked in water for a couple of minutes.

3. Its first row is laid out dry without mortar. Next, the layout is carried out with overlapping joints the previous row. Each seam must be completely filled with mortar, without voids and sinks.

4. The row is laid from the corners (see photo). After that, between the two corner bricks, the report of the entire row is made.

Laying a row

5. Each row is checked by the building level for horizontal and vertical compliance.

6. To avoid mistakes, the row is first laid out without mortar. Then the serial number of each of the bricks is signed with chalk, they are removed and the final laying begins. Not only horizontal, but also all vertical seams are smeared with a solution with a layer of 3-5 mm.

Important! When laying chimneys, do not use halves and quarters of bricks. If they fall out, getting them out of the chimney will be problematic. It is better to use parts of bricks in the uppermost rows of the structure.

7. The hob and the grate are laid with a gap of 5 mm to compensate for thermal expansion.

8. The doors of the furnace and blower are insulated with asbestos and additionally fastened to the wire, which is laid in the seams of the masonry. For its fastening in a cast-iron frame, special holes are necessarily provided.

Furnace door fixing

9. The walls of the chimney must be perfectly smooth and even. Soot lumps will accumulate in the joints and chips of bricks, therefore, only perfectly even bricks without defects are used to equip chimneys. The remains of the solution in such places should be immediately wiped with a rag or rag.

10. When erecting a pipe, the most difficult is the section passing through the attic floor. The walls in this place are increased so that their width exceeds 38 cm, while the cross section of the chimney remains unchanged.

The diagrams below provide ordering a small Swedish oven for 570 bricks with a hob. For the device of such an oven you will also need:

Cast iron stove with two burners;

Cast iron doors for the furnace and blower;

3 cleaning doors to remove soot;

2 valves;

Metal oven;

corner,

Steel strip for covering over the hob.

Video: Laying a brick oven with your own hands

A stove is the best way to heat a building up to 100 square meters. It gives a living heat that cannot be compared with modern chiller systems and air guns. Over the centuries of operation of fireplace stoves, the masters have identified all the design flaws and were able to eliminate them. Self-laying the stove is available to everyone, but you need to know a lot of nuances and tricks in order for the stove or fireplace to be truly functional, and not just take up space in the house. This article is completely devoted to the topic of how to build a stove with your own hands. In addition to detailed instructions, you will find recommendations and advice from experienced stove-makers to improve the efficiency of the design.

Folding the oven is a simple matter, but before you start, you need to decide on the type of structure. It is selected depending on the required options, the availability of free space in the house, as well as other parameters. After that, a scheme of the stove is created with the required dimensions and notes - it is according to this scheme that the subsequent laying of the stove will take place.

These are not all types of stoves, but the most common ones are listed. Next, we will talk about how to fold the heating discharge furnace.

Where to place the design

Many drawings of furnaces consider only wall options due to the fact that it is easier to build a chimney inside an already finished wall. However, there are many options where furnace designs are constructed right in the middle of the house. This method is only suitable when you need to fold the stove in a large room - in a small area it will not only interfere, but also spoil the view, it is also possible that people passing by will be constantly burned.

The wall laying of stoves is good in its own way - with such planning, there is a significant saving in space, installation is simplified, costs for finishing the stove are reduced, but even a small draft will help keep the temperature at foot level low. This problem can be solved by installing underfloor heating or a water circuit.

The scheme of the stove should include not only the design itself, but also departments for storing firewood, coal and other fuels. During cleaning and frequent ignition, soot and soot may enter the environment, as a result of which it is not recommended to place the equipment in the immediate vicinity of bedrooms and living rooms. The standard place where you can fold the oven with your own hands is the kitchen. In this part of the house, carpets are rarely hung or expensive furniture is placed, the floors are usually covered with linoleum, and the walls with washable materials.

Note: The stove is finished with tiles or bricks, but not with wallpaper or plastic panels.

Plates must be ceramic or stone, otherwise fire is possible, because even the outer part of the furnace structure has a high temperature during operation.

What is the oven made of?

Today, even stove projects are developed by designers, so the appearance can be completely different, but the internal components are difficult to replace with something. Pay attention to this section, having studied it in detail, you will already half know how to fold the oven with your own hands.

Firebox

She's a heat exchanger. It is the main part of any heating structure. Furnace fuel is loaded into it, ignition and combustion are carried out there. The dimensions of the furnace are directly proportional to the area of ​​the house to be heated. The minimum side dimension of a square heat exchanger is 40 cm, the maximum rarely exceeds 1 meter. Laying the heart of the stove with your own hands is only possible with refractory bricks - constant strong heating will cause ordinary building materials to crack. The wall thickness should be equal to half the brick.

Ash pan

This is a part of the design, which is located at the very bottom under the heat exchanger on the stove diagram. It is necessary to collect waste combustion materials, it is often combined with an air supply compartment. This is not to say that this is a mistake, but this is how stove debris can spread throughout the house. Many stove designs provide for a special tube for supplying oxygen, so the diagrams show one door leading to the ash pan.

Chimney

Before you fold the stove with your own hands, think about how the soot is planned to be removed, because the installation of the chimney requires partial disassembly of the roof and its subsequent sealing. Some craftsmen use corrugated pipes instead of a brick chimney, similar in appearance to pipes from old hoods. Such materials are not suitable for cleaning and constant heating, they are more suitable for periodic use, so it is better to build a house from standard bricks.

The flue gas outlet pipe should be as straight and without joints as possible. This will make it easier to clean. If you can’t do everything yourself, then you should connect specialist assistants to the case. The furnace master will not take a lot of money, but will help prevent carbon monoxide leakage, make sure that the pipes and the structure itself do not smoke.

Nuances of construction

To fold a durable stove, you need to have enough knowledge about its structure, it will simplify the process of using the tricks of experienced stove-makers.

1. In order not to spend a lot of time on finishing, it is enough to beautifully lay out a brick oven. To prevent pieces of mortar from spoiling the appearance, use construction tape, which is subsequently peeled off along with dirt. You can give the stove an original facade using blocks of different colors, rounded with a grinder.
2. Use commercial solutions. They contain high-quality filler and binder, and are also produced using modern aggregates and additives, which improves their technological properties.
3. The difference in thermal stability between fireclay and silicate blocks is 550 degrees, so that the firebox does not collapse, it is necessary to go around the basalt sheet.
4. Many drawings and diagrams of furnaces indicate the need to use metal corners. With their help, it is much easier to build a stove with your own hands or fold a heat exchanger. In addition, the corners help to correctly orient all rows of masonry according to the markings.
5. To create seams of the same thickness, iron rods can be used - they are laid out on the bottom row and filled with mortar, after which they are pressed against the top layer.
6. It is convenient to fold the arch of the stove or fireplace using drywall templates or other dense materials. To form bricks, use different nozzles.
7. Lay the chimney according to the level and plumb. Even a slight roll of 5-6 degrees can destroy all your efforts.
8. Buy in advance all the necessary building materials. There is nothing worse than going to the supermarket for a few drills or bricks in the midst of the process.
9. Take your time and do not start assembling the furnace in a bad mood - irritation and haste are not the best advisers in the construction business.
10. Refer to the diagrams more often and do not deviate from the developed design.
11. Use high-quality tools and building materials - this will increase the safety of work and improve the quality of the fireplace or stove.

Selection of furnace material

Choosing a brick

Note: Among the variety of building materials, in order to build a stove with your own hands, you need to choose a brick of the M250-500 grades.

Such raw materials are more expensive than usual, but, according to experts, they cope much better with numerous heating-cooling cycles. In addition, to finish the furnace, additional molding of bricks with a grinder or grinder may be required. Products of grades M100-200 crumble during processing, as they contain too much clay. They can lay out any decorative elements after the stove is made.

Create a solution

In order to fold the stove with your own hands, you will need a heat-resistant one with a large margin of safety. You can make your own oven masonry mix or buy it at a building department store. You will need normal clay, clean sand and settled water. Before folding the oven, calculate the approximate amount of mortar - 3 buckets of the mixture are used per hundred bricks.

The preparation is simple: soak 1 volume of clay in three times the amount of water. Leave the water solution for 3-4 hours. After the time has elapsed, add the sifted sand to the consistency of thick sour cream. It is necessary to knead in a clean container using a shovel or drill-mixer. Do not use cement mortar to build a furnace with your own hands - it will begin to crack after a few weeks of operation from a constant temperature difference.

Masonry stages

We have dealt with the theoretical part, it's time for practical work. Since laying out the stove is quite difficult, you will have to be patient and be prepared for minor alterations. Building a furnace with your own hands begins with clearing a place on the foundation. If the house was built recently and there is no complete finishing yet, then it will be much easier - you will not have to dismantle the cladding or tiles. Make accurate measurements in accordance with your drawings and diagrams and start laying the stove.

• The laying of blocks is carried out according to the marking on a fresh solution. The first section of the ash pan and the hood recess are created. Don't forget to plan the placement of the doors before laying out the stove. In stoves and fireplaces, shutters and hatches must have heat-resistant handles, a metal base and fastening loops. It is quite difficult to mount the doors on mortar or by welding, therefore, wire fastening is used, so that there are no recesses between the masonry and the plugs, you need to make grooves in the bricks in advance and adjust them to size.
• Lay out the order until you reach the level of the fuel grate. Install and secure it. The internal part of the heat exchanger consists of, which increases its service life.
• The firebox is closed from above by about 12-15 rows. If you want to not only lay out the stove, but also make it multifunctional, install a steel sheet with cooking burners in the upper part. Remember to create vents and a hatch for adding firewood.
• Next, you should do the installation of the upper cap passage, through which smoke will rise. Subsequently, a metal or asbestos pipe is installed at the top of this passage, but finishing the chimney with bricks is much more reasonable, since it will not burn out over time.
• All joints are tightly sealed with mortar - the mixture should always be fresh, so you do not need to start a whole trough at once. It will dry before being applied to the masonry.
• Finishing the furnace is the last step and is not mandatory if the structure is located in a technical or industrial room. Silicate brick or expanded clay slabs are suitable for finishing the furnace. If you built a fireplace, then it should be made of plaster or marble. In the latter case, it is worth considering the large weight of the stone, which can shrink the foundation.

This data is enough for the home master to be able to independently fold the stove or fireplace. Responsibly approach the process and remember safety precautions.

Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal furnaces and boilers, which is replenished from year to year with newer and newer models. But despite all their advantages, the owners of non-gasified houses still have an ordinary brick oven in honor - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of furnaces and do-it-yourself brick-type construction technology.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house

So, let's try to understand why an old heating device is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The body of the furnace is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick oven has to be heated much less frequently than a conventional steel and even cast iron one. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be thrown into the firebox of a metal stove every 4-6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal "substitutes". The fuel in it burns in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the furnace does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly cause harm to health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ones) emits steam when heated, and absorbs it again when it cools. This process is called kiln breathing. Thanks to him, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When using any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel furnace has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it has to either be heated often, putting small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one tab of fuel increases, but it burns out with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other environmentally harmful substances - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick oven produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while from the chimney of a steel oven in which the fuel is smoldering, black smoke constantly pours. This shortcoming is deprived of metal solid fuel heaters of long burning (full-fledged, and not the so-called gas-generating furnaces, which only imitate gas generation). But they are very expensive, have a complex design and need electricity, without which a brick oven can easily do.

What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven warms up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector that will heat the air in forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be built along with the house. And ideally, this should be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

The use of brick ovens

The scope of application of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Remelting of scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing of ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in the blacksmith shop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above scheme in different furnaces may be modified. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. Such a stove is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very successful version of the heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at the level of 60%;
• in the oven, a heat exchanger can be installed on the side for heating water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven roof;
• gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and need a foundation.

Bell-type furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complicated to manufacture (high loads take place in the design). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove bench

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. It does not include a convector.

The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector is not provided for in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• become available for cooking such dishes of our national cuisine, which you can’t cook otherwise than in a Russian oven.

The Russian stove can be folded independently, if you clearly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General arrangement of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick array there is a chamber with a door in which the fuel burns - the furnace (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. Under the grates there is another chamber, called an ash pan or blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, outside air enters the furnace and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. Hailo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (pos. 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). A door (pos. 18) is installed at its outlet, which is closed in summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (pos. 12): the smoke channel is cleaned through it;
• valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
• view (pos. 17): it is also a valve, through which, after kindling, when all the carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is blocked in order to retain heat.

The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney at the intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the overlap, the walls of the chimney are made thicker. This broadening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It does not allow rain moisture to penetrate into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other items:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: a stove with such elements requires less brick, besides, it has an additional heating surface from below;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (ventilator), through which uniform heating of the room in height is achieved;
• 10 - furnace vault;
• 13 - the bend of the air convector, called the overflow or pass;
• 20 - overlapping of the furnace;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparing for construction

Required materials, selection

When building a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Construction ceramic brick (red). They lay out the lowest rows - the so-called sub-fire part (indicated by oblique shading in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Furnace ceramic brick. It is also red, but compared to the building one it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the oven are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The furnace brick lays out the flame (furnace) part of the furnace, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
3. Chamotte brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay bricks combine high heat capacity (it is a very "capacious" heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick in this case can not be used.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be lined with oven bricks at least half a brick.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of the furnace. Often its quality is recommended to be determined by the color depth, but this method is valid only for those products for which clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a qualitative sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should make a sonorous and clear sound, and when it falls from a certain height, it breaks into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds to tapping, and when it falls, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks are laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar.
2. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if irregular furnace firing is expected. The fact is that a dried clay solution with insufficient heating can be saturated with moisture and become sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique hatching with filling), a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used instead of clay. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: mortars of excellent quality are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so its amount in the solution is sought to be minimized.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• clay is soaked for a day, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wrapped around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the mortar is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• pick hammer;
• cutting for seams;
• mortar shovel.

The stove-maker should have a rail-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By setting 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heater

The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 of the furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values ​​are accepted:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in terms of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will produce 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be enough for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m 2.

The calculation of the furnace is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. Rather than design and manufacture a home-made firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The firebox in size and location of fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a furnace that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded furnace made of sheet steel; for permanent use, you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash shaft (lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace is fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if wood fuel or pellets are the main one.

The cross section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, head height above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the furnace, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the furnace begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to make an accurate calculation by hand is to simply count the bricks in orders, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate a furnace in one of the computer programs designed for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a place, schemes

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and the location of the various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will heat the entire building with high quality, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

In a large house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.

And in this way, a brick oven can be installed in an economy class dwelling:

When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:

1. A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney must not come into contact with attic beams and roof rafters. In this case, it should be borne in mind that in the intersection area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe attic floor, it has a broadening, called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating plate, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is capable of withstanding a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations of internal walls (including T-shaped ones). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the building foundation tapes is 1.2 m.
3. It is allowed to build a small Russian stove on a base of a wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), based on the soil or rubble of the foundation of the building.

Preparatory work consists in laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, it can be rubble. An ordinary oven (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the furnace by at least 50 mm.

The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
• it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.

Laying can begin only after the top layer has dried to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work on the floor in front of the future stove, it is necessary to build a fireproof coating, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating must be at least 300 mm from the furnace, while its side edges must extend beyond the furnace by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Masonry rules in accordance with the order

The stove is placed in accordance with the order (see Fig.).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the vault of the firebox and the underfire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
2. Bandaging of seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry cannot be done - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, the seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The laying must be carried out with dressing of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by an adjacent brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and they are guided in the future.
5. Doors and shutters are fixed in the masonry by means of a binding wire laid in the seams, or with the help of clamps made of a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and flame dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In the fluff and otter, only the outer size of the chimney increases, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and properly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are advised to lay out the furnace part of the furnace in the formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with an asbestos cord.
4. Next, lay out the flame part, for which they use furnace and fireclay bricks.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned with a brush from dust. Ceramic brick must be moistened by lowering it into a container of water, then shake it off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution with their hands, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be immediately laid correctly, without correcting or tapping. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after removing the mortar smeared on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying a few more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the furnace door - in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Spread the rows of the furnace part. If a low slab is being erected, then the row of bricks above the furnace door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast-iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or vault (in purely heating furnaces). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Further, the laying of the furnace is continued according to the order, making out the gas convection system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it can be easily removed, the height of the lower inter-channel transitions (overflows) must be 30-50% higher than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes must be rounded off.

Having completed the construction of the body of the furnace, proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

Vaults are of two types:

• flat: arches of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. A flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the furnace using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:

1. They begin with the installation of extreme support blocks - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size, on the solution.
2. After the solution dries, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
3. Keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without violations, this process will take place evenly throughout the arch.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular arch should not exceed 17 degrees. With standard sizes of blocks, the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) should be 2 mm wide, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss at the level of 10% due to uncontrolled air flow through it.

You also need to heat the stove correctly. With a strongly open blower, from 15 to 20% of heat can fly into the chimney, and if the furnace door is open during fuel combustion, then all 40%.

The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Raw firewood gives less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in them, a large amount of acid condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel bookmark to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

Ignition of the bulk of the fuel is carried out with a torch, paper, etc. It is forbidden to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to cover the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by the yellow color of the fire; if it turned white - the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances are released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including from soot)

Cleaning and repair of the furnace is usually carried out in the summer, but in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and with a large amount of it, the stove will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.

The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any damage or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold the oven with your own hands

Whichever version of the brick oven you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, there will be no friendship between them.

No private house is complete without a traditional brick heating and cooking stove. And although today many houses are equipped with gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to abandon the brick oven, as it gives a special warmth - the warmth of the hearth, filling the home with comfort and a sense of calm. In addition, in regions rich in forests, you can significantly save on natural gas consumption by acquiring firewood.

The desire to make redevelopment in the house, including the transfer of the heating and cooking stove, can often rest on the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to fold the oven with your own hands in this material.

There are many types of furnaces, but not all are used in private construction.

Types of stoves for private houses:

1. heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
2. cooking(the oven is exclusively for cooking);
3. Universal(heating and cooking).

The latter variety is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.

The device of the furnace and its properties

After reviewing the sketches and designs of brick ovens, and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its external design as to its internal structure. The device of the heating and cooking furnace determines its performance, and ultimately its service life.

The internal design of the heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the appliance itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in the corner or against the wall.

The main structural elements of the heating and cooking furnace:

• Shantsy (heat-air channels);
• Ash pan (or blower);
• grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
• Under (slope to the grate);
• combustion chamber;
• Burnout (chimney);
• The vault of the firebox (separates the combustion zone from the afterburning zone in the combustion chamber);
• Air vent (hole through which heat enters the heated room);
• outer wall;
• Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber with the chimney);
• overlap;
• Chimney;
• Indent (the space between the chimney and the stove);
• Smoke dampers;
• Heat dissipating walls.

The heat output of the furnace is determined by the amount of heat energy released by the furnace per hour, and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to store heat from burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different stoves have different levels of heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of the walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.

The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.

Russian stove and its device

A Russian brick oven is installed on the foundation, since its device is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a sub-stove used to store fuel, which dries in it and easily flares up when the stove is melted. The stove is closed with a vault-trough, on which the filling is poured on a solution of clay. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.

The Russian stove has a special design, which differs significantly from the traditional heating and cooking stove in terms of heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short time, the Russian stove accumulates heat and is able to give it away for 24 hours.

In order for the Russian stove not to consume excessive amounts of fuel, not to smoke and not to cool down in a matter of hours, it is important to follow the exact masonry technology and dimensions that the scheme includes when installing it. The bricks that form the interior of the oven are hewn and polished so that the walls inside the hail are even and smooth.

Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or a bakery and a firebox (crucible). The floor of the furnace has an inclined design, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when installing a Russian stove.

The crucible is the main secret that Russian cuisine hides. Some dishes after cooking should languish in the cooking chamber for a long time. It is not possible to achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for preparing dishes of Russian cuisine using a familiar hob or electric oven.

The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is the smoke channel of the simplest design, which in its efficiency surpasses the devices of smoke channels of other stoves.

Do-it-yourself Russian oven device (video)

Design choice

The choice of the type of furnace depends on the conditions of its operation:

1. Heating and cooking stove. If you are planning an intensive use of the stove in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the device of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first warmed up, then heat transfer begins.
2. The furnace is heating. For a house in the mountains or a summer house where permanent residence is not planned, a fireplace will be enough. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up the room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up in the cold season.

A brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. The lightest construction is assembled into a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on the edge). In order to give it strength - a frame made of metal corners is used. A massive oven requires a foundation, which should not be connected to the support of the building. In the case of a separate chimney, it also needs its own foundation.

Determining size and power

The level of heat transfer of the heating and cooking stove must exactly fulfill the possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and ceilings.

The size and design of the future furnace determines its power.

Furnace device. Where to begin?

The laying of any furnace cannot be started without a project or drawing, which should include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the chimney outlet without disturbing the supporting elements of the structure. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The scheme or project of the future furnace is compiled on the basis of this calculation.

It is quite difficult to create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove on your own, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.

Tools and materials

When the furnace project is approved, it is possible to prepare for its laying.

To fold the oven with your own hands, you must have on hand:

• Stove-maker's hammer (trowel);
• Master OK;
• Building level and plumb lines;
• measuring tape;
• Cement-sand mortar;
• Hand power tools (hammer drill, grinder, etc.);
• Red brick;
• Refractory brick (fired);
• Facing brick;
• Mortar for masonry of clay and sand;
• Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
• Furnace fittings and appliances.

Do-it-yourself oven laying. All stages

Like any construction process, laying a stove with your own hands is done in stages.

The scheme of this process includes the following points:

• Foundation arrangement. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a battlefield. The foundation is not used for all furnace structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive furnace, you cannot do without its construction.

In no case should the support of the future furnace come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and in case of skew, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is a fire hazard.

The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed the overall dimensions of the furnace by at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with two rows of fired bricks on cement mortar to the floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the construction of the entire furnace will depend on it. This is followed by a layer of waterproofing, as a material for which ordinary roofing felt or roofing material can be used, the material is laid in two layers.

• Furnace lining. The first row is laid out on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next, a mortar is laid in place of the corner brick and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air comes out. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and correctly laid on the mortar with a trowel tapped on it for leveling. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.

To check how correctly the corner brick is laid, it should be checked with a building level horizontally and plumb lines on both sides vertically.

The laying of subsequent bricks is carried out in an identical way, the only difference is that the vertical seams are filled with mortar during the laying process. Each subsequent row should be laid with an offset of half a brick for dressing the seams. During the masonry, fittings are installed (the door of the blower and the combustion chamber, the grate, the plates). Openings for fittings and oven appliances must be made slightly larger than the elements themselves, taking into account the difference in the linear expansion of metal elements and bricks.

• Formation of a chimney. The process of laying the pipe is not much different from the laying of the furnace itself. When passing the attic floor, it is necessary to observe the fire distance (38 cm) from the rafter system and other wooden elements to the inner wall of the pipe. If there is no desire to brick the outer part of the chimney that rises above the roof, you can install a pipe made of asbestos or metal.

Do-it-yourself brick furnace (video)

Conclusion

The formation of useful skills in the field of furnace business is not an easy task, like laying a furnace with your own hands. It is important to have the right approach to the process of building a brick oven, observing exactly the dimensional ratio of the device project and the finished product.

Examples of brick ovens (photo)

Since ancient times, it so happened that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, and provide hygiene, and put to bed. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house, not without reason in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who needed comfort and warmth most of all. Today, the functions of a traditional heater, Swedish or Dutch stove are reduced mainly to a heating and decorative function, which does not prevent them from being used for preparing fragrant and healthy dishes from the arsenal of many world cuisines. The article will focus on brick ovens for the home.

Folding the oven is a whole science that has been known for more than one year of study. If there is no qualified stove-maker among your friends, and you really want to have a hearth in the house, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before you get started.

We decide on the design of a brick oven

Depending on what hopes real estate owners have with their home, it is worth considering the most satisfying options for all desires. Do not forget about the dimensions of various furnaces and their weight. It is necessary to calculate not only your own forces and means, but also the strength of the foundation.

Russian stove

• Suitable for connoisseurs of tradition. This design performs the maximum number of functions, so it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally, it is placed in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can also be placed in the center of the room.
• The lounger is provided for rest; Depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. A continuous air supply for better fuel combustion is provided by a blower. The hearth and the stump are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Cooked food left in this area is guaranteed to stay warm for a very long time. The undercoat and the underplate were used to store kitchen utensils, tongs, pokers. Pechurki are recesses of small diameter located along the side wall of the stove. They served to dry small things, for example, mittens covered with snow dried out very quickly in them.
• Those who wish to lay down a Russian stove in the house will have to provide for it a place of at least two meters in height, one and a half meters in width and two and a half in length. A design with such dimensions will easily provide uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a furnace also requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant volumes of the room or are not fans of the traditional color should pay attention to another version of the stove.

Brick oven photo

Swede

• A model that is more compact than a Russian stove, designed for space heating and cooking, is Swedish.
• She has the same height requirements - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat to cook food on two burners of a cast iron stove at the same time.
• There is also an oven, which the housewives will appreciate. The Swede has many modifications, they are named after the developers (a stove designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each one is slightly different in size, appearance, heat dissipation, so choosing the right option is not difficult.

Brick oven video

Dutch

• It will serve only for heating the house. It, contrary to its name, has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove-makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer with compact dimensions. If there are no severe frosts outside the window, then the Dutch woman is able to keep warm for a day. Design features include a winding chimney and a low (compared to a Russian stove) located firebox. Thanks to this, the Dutchwoman warms up evenly from the bottom up.
• Its walls are thin - one, less often two bricks, the base in the form of a circle or rectangle fits on an area of ​​1 m². To heat a medium-sized room in a country house, this is more than enough. And in terms of weight, it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of details, but this only plays into the hands of the issue of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of the Dutch stove is very attractive; to improve its appearance, it is often finished with tiles.

Preparatory stage before making a brick oven

At the preparation stage, you need to take care of finding a brick wall project that is suitable in all respects, consider its location, and take into account all fire safety requirements. You will need to pick up tools, purchase the right material and invite assistants.

The draft scheme can be ordered from specialized agencies or trusted resources on the Web. For those who wish, detailed courses are even filmed on video.

Of the tools you will need:

• a mesh (sieve) for sifting sand, with a mesh size not exceeding 2 mm;
• shovel;
• grinder (you have to cut a brick);
• a pickaxe hammer will help chop a solid brick into small pieces and hew them to the desired shape and size;
• stitching for seams. This is a special tool that allows you to give the seams between the bricks a neat and aesthetic look. If the stove is planned to be subsequently plastered or covered with decorative tiles, then this device will not have to be used. And when the master wants to leave the brickwork in its original form, the jointing will ensure the same density and width of the seams;
• trowel (trowel) for applying the solution;

• nozzle-mixer on the perforator. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and such a mass can be evenly mixed only using a power tool;
• tape measure is better to take with a margin of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
• a plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
• a rule is needed to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat wooden lath more than a meter long is also suitable;
• the building level checks whether the masonry has “fallen” relative to the horizontal;
• the work will be “dirty”, so cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops should be kept ready. It is better to clean the solution before it dries.

The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the chosen furnace configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: a cast-iron stove, the number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main items of expenditure.

• Sand must fall under the following characteristics: clean, fine, uniform. This result can be achieved by sifting.
• Clay is skinny, normal and oily. The proportions of the preparation of the working solution depend on its variety. Many experts advise choosing the "golden mean", that is, clay of a normal degree of fat content.

Brick is produced in four main types.

• Ceramic. This is a classic among materials for housing construction. Lay the foundation, build a load-bearing wall, build a country house - all this can be done from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
• silicate brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
• Refractory brick type used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures is the norm. Metallurgists and glassblowers, for example, work with furnaces built from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extremely high temperatures make refractory (fireclay) bricks the best for building a furnace. It is divided into four types:
  • carbon steel is rarely found in free sale, it is intended for the use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
  • lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
  • the quartz look, for all its fire resistance, is very unstable to the effects of alkalis or iron oxide. But for walls and vaults of furnaces it can be used;
  • alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating over 1300 ° C.

Refractory bricks are more expensive than conventional ones. Russian manufacturers offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.

Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for decoration. To improve the appearance of the furnace, it is used quite often. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.

Foundation for the installation of a brick oven

• The furnace foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is explained by the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will arise in any case, and the loads on both bases and temperature effects will be different.

• The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing is a mandatory requirement for the base of the furnace.

How to lay a Russian brick oven

• What else needs to be considered before starting work? A classic Russian stove will require about 1,700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (hole dimensions 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of mortar.
• As for the layer of the applied mixture, in this case the rule is more - it means better, it does not work. A masonry seam of moderate thickness will help the bricks to grasp faster and stronger.
• According to the classical canons of laying out the furnace, the vault of the furnace should go at an angle relative to the mouth. A protrusion in the form of a nut cuts off sparks from the crucible on the pipes and traps soot.

• Orders have been developed to help the master. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of a particular row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the installation locations of cast iron and other parts of the stove.

Drawing of a brick oven

• The base of the furnace must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing material is quite suitable. The first row will be laid out directly on it. Burnt (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, as they are not afraid of moisture.
• In order for the dressing of the seams in the initial and subsequent rows to be of high quality, in the corners starting row lay three bricks ¾ in size. That is, a triangle is formed from these incomplete bricks: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be made on a bevel to ensure maximum fit.
• Second row serves as the initial for laying out the guard.
• Since masonry involves the installation of bricks apart, in order to avoid the coincidence of the seams, third row will require the presence of four bricks in the corners with dimensions of ¾.
• When laying fourth row you need to take whole bricks. A pair of bricks that are stacked opposite each other, forming the entrance to the under-furnace, should have beveled corners. Thus, support for the arch will be obtained. In order for the stove to turn out to be even, a wooden formwork is built in its opening.

• When the arch is completed, you can return to laying fifth row. Three ¾ bricks are placed in the corners. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) must be beaten off with a hammer with a pick so that they form a support for the vaults of the furnace.

• Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork is designed in such a way that, after completion of work, it can be easily removed through the entrance to the underfurnace. If you can’t give the bricks the desired shape, you should use the usual ones, and fill the voids with mortar and pieces of broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying a whole brick with neatly made bevels.
• Seventh row in terms of execution technique it resembles the first one, for the eighth solid brick is used. The eighth row involves arranging a platform for a cold stove.
• Ninth row- as the first, connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed between the walls.
• Eleventh row must completely cover the sandy backfill and the stove itself.
• Thirteenth row involves the start of work on laying the walls of the hearth and furnace. A strip of metal passes between them, which in its shape exactly repeats the furnace mouth. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should be with holes through which steel wire is passed.
• All other rows are performed in order to build up the walls of the firebox and hearth up to up to the seventeenth row. It requires that pre-chip and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces become a support for the vault of the furnace. The crucible-furnace itself is laid out similarly to a guardianship.
• The completed arch of the crucible is an occasion to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of heels - supports is fixed on the side of the hearth window. The arch, of which they are the beginning, will be small. When laying out the next rows, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, gravel and broken glass.
• twenty first row serves as a cover for the backfill and the crucible, and twenty second forms an additional layer.
• twenty third row should strengthen the shield walls and the retube. In the last element, a stuffing box is fastened, it is needed to connect the samovar pipe to it, if it is planned to heat it indoors. When the subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the half-door of the view.
• Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter be formed next to one of the walls (an additional row of three bricks). The next row can completely block the overtube. The only caveat is that on the right side it is supposed to leave a hole in it, blocked by a valve.
• From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Almost at the very ceiling, cutting is carried out in order to let the bricks in a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The last value is that the groove increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating the ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
• After the masonry dries, they proceed to the final finishing of the brick oven, make a trial heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.

Do-it-yourself Dutch brick oven

The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but it has its own nuances. The classic version looks like this:

• the design has a rectangular shape (even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
• there is no grate;
• structural elements:
• a firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the furnace;
• a chimney consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel passage of gases through the system: three lowering and three lifting channels;
• cleaning door;
• blew.

You will need to purchase:

• refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
• well bending wire;
• a piece of roofing material for waterproofing;
• crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
• masonry glue;
• firebox door, blower, valve;
• a standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.

Scheme of a Dutch brick oven

Stages of work

When the foundation for the stove dries out, it is covered with roofing material, and that, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying stoves, two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Let the solution dry.

• First row spread over a layer of sand moistened with water. A sand cushion is poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Without forgetting the rules of dressing, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
• In the third row begin to form an ash chamber, the door is installed later.

• Fourth row perform in order to build up an array of the furnace, the door is immediately installed. To fix it in the masonry, a metal wire is used. If the first three rows of bricks were laid out flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on edge until the firebox door is closed.
• The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pan door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are again laid flat. Eighth row- Height increase.
• Some homeowners equip a hob in a Dutch stove. If it is provided for by the project, then ninth and tenth row are shifting back. At the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter, on which a cooking surface is installed. The tenth row involves the beginning of laying the foundation of the chimney. To facilitate the design, a metal chimney is sometimes mounted.
• AT eleventh row a valve is being installed (using an asbestos cord), and the masonry is made in a quarter of a brick.
• AT fourteenth row the firebox is covered from above, a hole is formed along the back wall for the exit of excess smoke. Similar work is done in the next row.
• AT two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleaning door. You can simply leave a brick in its place without bonding it with mortar.
• Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, they install the finished pipe or continue to form it through masonry.
• Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the mortar, it will grab better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.

• For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to drown the Dutch woman with those types of fuel that are characterized by rapid combustion (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The furnace does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally fly out into the chimney.
• Fuel, which forms a lot of ash during combustion, will also not contribute to heating the room, but it forms a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
• The best option is a fuel that can smolder for a long time.
• It is worth adding to the issue of fire safety that the Dutch oven cannot be heated too much. It will emit carbon monoxide when overheated. The degree of heating is checked by the usual touch of the palm to the masonry: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is about 50 ° C. This is the norm.
• For those who are laying stoves for the first time, it is worth doing a test laying in a “dry” way. That is, to perform all the work in stages, without fastening the bricks with mortar. So you can fill your hand and at the same time decide whether you need outside help.

Making a stove with your own hands is not the kind of activity that can be submitted the first time. A careful study of the schemes, trial masonry without the use of mortar, the advice of experienced craftsmen will make the task easier. Work and patience, according to the saying, greatly contribute to the positive outcome of any business.