Folk remedies for processing strawberries. How to treat strawberries from diseases and pests during fruiting? Do I need fertilizer when processing strawberries in the spring

Strawberries are the most popular berry in gardens. Unfortunately, it is to the taste not only of adults and children, but also of numerous pests.

strawberry mite

If young strawberry leaves do not unfold completely, remaining twisted, then they have suffered from a strawberry mite. When there are a lot of ticks on a strawberry plantation, not only young, but also old leaves are damaged. With a strong infection, the owners remove only the first berries from the bushes, after which the plants dry up along with the ovaries.

The strawberry mite is a very small insect that is difficult to spot even under a magnifying glass. The pest affects garden strawberries in all regions of its cultivation. Ticks cause maximum damage to three-four-year-old plantings.

Ticks actively breed in warm weather at 19-25 °C. They quickly die from dehydration in direct sunlight, so they hide on the underside of leaves and under lumps of soil.

signs

Symptoms of strawberry mite infestation:

  • bushes are underdeveloped;
  • leaves become smaller, become wrinkled, twisted, corrugated;
  • a yellowish tint appears on the leaves;
  • plaque forms on the underside of the leaf blades;
  • in winter, the affected bushes freeze out.

Since the pest does not tolerate the sun, make sure that the plantings are ventilated and lit, do not allow thickening. Bushes infected with ZK are dug up and destroyed.

How to fight

Immediately after harvesting, the aerial part of the plant is cut off and burned, not laid in a compost heap. The leaves are mowed no later than mid-August, so that new ones can form by autumn. Before mowing, for reliability, you can treat the bed with Karbofos and close it with a film for several hours.

There are varieties resistant to strawberry mite: Omskaya early, Zenga-Zengana. Varieties with a high sugar content in berries are most severely affected.

For spraying from a tick, gardeners use a decoction of tomato tops and dandelion tincture.

Decoction of tomato leaves

Preparation of a decoction of tomato tops:

  1. Fill the tops harvested in the fall with water - per kilogram of leaves - 10 liters.
  2. Insist 4 hours.
  3. Simmer for 2 hours on low heat.
  4. Strain.
  5. Dilute one by one with clean water.
  6. Add some laundry soap.

Dandelion infusion

Preparation of dandelion infusion:

  1. Soak dandelion leaves in warm water.
  2. Insist 4 hours.
  3. Strain.

For 10 liters of water, take 1 kg of dandelion leaves.

It is impossible to completely destroy the strawberry mite, but careful plant care, including the removal of mustaches, potash top dressing and spraying with biostimulants, helps to keep the pest at a safe level.

spider mite

PCs are microscopically small but dangerous strawberry pests that feed on plant sap. If the spring is hot and dry, the insect begins to multiply rapidly. If you do not take action in time, you can be completely without a crop, since mites are able to completely destroy the strawberry garden even before flowering.

signs

To prevent this from happening, in early spring, a week after cleaning the beds from weeds and last year's dry leaves, the plantations are inspected, trying to detect the first signs of PC damage. Dry and jagged edges of green leaves speak of the presence of a pest. Itself is so small that it is almost impossible to notice it on strawberries.

How to fight

From PC, Vertimek helps well - an enteric-contact insecticide that destroys ticks. Spraying with Vermitek is carried out in the evening. For 10 liters of water take 3 g of the drug. After 10 days, the treatment is repeated.

It is necessary to have time to finish the treatments against PC before the strawberries begin to bloom. During flowering, any spraying is prohibited.

Ammonia

Opponents of industrial poisons use a substance with a pungent odor - ammonia to protect strawberries from spider mites. Two or three tablespoons of alcohol are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the leaves are sprayed. At this concentration of alcohol, burns do not appear on the berry.

Unlike ammonia, iodine for strawberries does not help against pests, since it does not destroy insects, but microscopic fungi that cause leaf spot.

Raspberry strawberry weevil

Strawberry-raspberry weevils are small insects that destroy unopened buds. These strawberry pests are activated in the spring. Before flowering, they live in the center of the bush and feed on leaves.

signs

With the beginning of the formation of buds, insects move closer to the pedicels. Females make clutches in unblown buds and gnaw pedicels. The gnawed buds wither.

In each bud, the female weevil lays one egg. A larva develops in the flower, eating out its middle. The larva pupates in the soil. Adult weevils overwinter under lumps of soil and in the spring, with the onset of heat, they again begin to feed on strawberry leaves.

To protect plants from pests, you need to guess the processing time. It is worth a little late, and you can lose the harvest. In just a few days, female weevils are able to destroy many buds.

It is necessary to catch the moment when the buds are still in the group and their pedicels are not isolated. Earlier processing will not lead to the destruction of females, since at this time they are still hiding under lumps of soil or kept in the thick of foliage.

How to fight

It is useless and even harmful spring processing of strawberries from weevil pests, when flowering has already begun. Firstly, it's too late, and secondly, the insecticide will destroy pollinating insects.

To destroy the weevil, you can use the Spark. The tablet is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The drug is difficult to dissolve, so the tablet, without getting out of the sachet, it is better to crush it to a powdery state. The spark is diluted in a small volume of warm water and stirred well until completely dissolved, and then the concentrate is poured into a 10-liter container.

strawberry nematode

Nematodes are small white worms that live in the ground. Their length is not more than 1 mm. Nematodes eat young strawberry roots. A severe infestation of a plantation with a nematode can lead to a complete loss of the crop.

signs

A diseased plant stops forming roots. Cysts resembling white grains form on the roots. The leaves turn yellow, curl, wrinkle, their veins thicken. Flowering is poor or absent, the berries are deformed. Over time, the plant dries out and dies.

My husband and I bought several strawberry seedlings from the local market and planted them in our summer cottage. A month later, once again watering them, she noticed that she was attacked by a weevil. It turns out that the plant was infected with it at the time of sale!

Fortunately, with the help of an iodine solution, we managed to get rid of this pest before it had time to destroy the seedlings. In this article, I will tell you how to save the future berry crop from insect pests and diseases.

The most common insect pests of berry crops:

  • Strawberry Weevil - They are quite often seen on strawberry leaves, which they feed on. Outwardly, this pest does not exceed 3 mm, the body is gray-black. Every May, the females lay their larvae deep in the buds, and in June a new army of hungry weevils emerge from them.
  • Strawberry mite - Capable of completely destroying the berry crop, it is almost impossible to notice it due to its very small size and transparent body. It hibernates near the roots, and in spring its females lay numerous eggs directly on the leaves, which shrivel and turn yellow from such an invasion. It is very difficult to get rid of it.
  • Strawberry nematode - Slightly less hardy than the stem nematode, but also capable of destroying the entire bed of berry crops in one season. In one summer, up to 8 generations of nematodes can change. The culture affected by the nematode grows crookedly, their stems thicken, develop very poorly and bear little fruit, and the leaf blades turn red.
  • Slugs - Appear when the berry is fully ripe. In one night, a whole army of slugs can eat all the fruits in the beds, leaving not a single piece.
  • Stem nematode - Capable of almost completely destroying the crop, it is difficult to notice, since it does not exceed 2 mm, lives in the stems. Its presence is indicated by the lag in the development of plants and its external ugliness, thickening of the stems.

  • White spotting - Usually appears in May and starts as small reddish spots on the leaves that become white as they grow larger. During flowering, this fungus is even more activated and can infect neighboring bushes. Therefore, it is undesirable to plant a berry crop in cramped conditions.
  • Witch's broom - This is the name of a disease that provokes the appearance of a huge number of small leaves on one bush, because of which it cannot bear fruit.
  • Root rot - After a long rainy period, the roots of the plant can be affected by this fungus, the appearance of which can not be seen until a year later, when the bush begins to die. There is no cure for root rot, but its occurrence can be prevented.
  • Powdery mildew - With prolonged humidity, a white coating appears on the leaves and berries. Then the leaves change their color to bronze, stops growing. The fungus can develop until autumn, finally destroying the greenery, if Topaz treatment is not started in time.
  • Gray rot - Occurs if the crop grows in damp and cold soil. First, brown spots of various shapes appear on the leaves, then they pass to the berries, completely destroying them. After that, these spots begin to grow, completely destroying the plant.

Strawberry treatment

Bordeaux liquid

The most popular drug among gardeners, with which you can get rid of many fungal diseases and improve plants. It must be remembered that this mixture cannot be stored for a long time, so it is made right before use. And you should not use this drug too often, so as not to accumulate copper in the soil.

In early spring, so that the leaves do not get sick with a fungus, they are watered with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture, and in the fall, a 1% solution is already used. This drug is quite enough for plants twice a year.

Boric acid

The safest drug for humans, which can not only protect plants from harmful microbes, but also give them useful minerals. Thanks to boric acid, strawberries grow better, multiply faster with tendrils, bear fruit abundantly, the berries become a little sweeter and juicier.

To do this, every April-May, pour 1 g of boric acid and potassium permanganate into a ten-liter bucket of water, stir well and pour this solution over the entire garden with the future harvest.

Of course, for tender bushes, this method can be fatal. Therefore, in this case, they simply take hot water, with a temperature of about 60-70 ° C.

For the first time, the bushes are watered with hot water in early April, trying to hit the jet exactly in the center. This method can destroy all the larvae of the tick, weevil, nematodes. Strawberry roots are not damaged by hot water, as it, passing through the ground, has time to cool down to an acceptable temperature.

Ash

The most popular and cheapest fertilizer that can be obtained from burning waste wood. The ash contains microelements useful to the plant: calcium, phosphorus, potassium and others. You just need to make sure that any household garbage does not get into the fire or stove. They burn only natural wood, the breed does not matter.

To make the berries sweeter and can be stored longer, you need to periodically sprinkle ash on the ground around the stems. After that, it is advisable to immediately water the beds so that the beneficial substances are absorbed into the ground, and not carried away by the wind.

Iodine

It disinfects plants well from various bacteria, relieves them of fungal diseases. They are usually watered bushes in April to get rid of weevil larvae. To do this, pour half a teaspoon of iodine into a bucket of water. Before you start watering with a solution of iodine, it is advisable to first water the bushes with plain water.

With the help of iodine, you can also get rid of gray rot, if it has not yet managed to completely capture the entire bush. To do this, the beds are sprayed three times with this tincture for the entire season. If watered with tincture of iodine for the purpose of prevention, then the strawberries will bear fruit better and practically will not hurt.

Ammonia

If it is well diluted in water, then it will simply scare away insects with its pungent odor, without causing any harm to the plant. In addition, it is an excellent nitrogen fertilizer. They are sprayed with berries only after they have faded.

It has been noticed that strawberries sprayed with a solution of ammonia are not visited by pests, such as ants, nematodes, weevil and others.

For the whole summer, a bed with a berry crop is treated with this tincture three times. The first time - in early spring, when the leaves are just starting to grow.

Then they wait for the flowers to fall off. Then they pour the same tincture again, but not the whole vial is poured into the bucket, but 2 tablespoons of ammonia. The last processing is carried out in the fall after the full harvest. The proportions are the same as in spring.

Hydrogen peroxide

It kills all fungi, viruses, bacteria. They are usually treated with tools and greenhouses. Thanks to hydrogen peroxide, you can safely get rid of rot. To do this, mix 2-3 tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide in one liter of water, then spray all the greens with it in the evening, when the heat subsides.

But never in direct sunlight. This treatment is repeated every week until the rot is completely eliminated. Hydrogen peroxide is safe for berries, so after processing, after a few hours, the fruits can be safely eaten.

Rules for the care of strawberries

spring

First of all, diseased and old leaves are removed, the soil is loosened and fertilized by adding nitrogen. If desired, you can also mulch the soil around the bushes with humus. They are treated from pests in the fall, if they did not have time or forgot, they can be sprayed with the necessary preparations in the spring, before the first flowers appear.

autumn

After all the berries are harvested, deformed leaves are removed and burned. If a lot of bushes are infected with a nematode, then it is already useless to treat them.

In this case, the bushes do not need to be removed, but simply pour this tincture on top. If during the harvest a lot of rotten fruits were noticed, then in the fall it is advisable to water the entire garden with mustard tincture.

Strawberries are unpretentious garden crops, but still require some care. First of all, it concerns protection against diseases and insects. The processing of strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests should not be skipped, since the health and productivity of plants will depend on this.

This article will describe the main diseases and crop pests, methods of dealing with them and effective preventive measures. You will also learn how to properly handle strawberries in the spring to prevent disease in young plants.

Strawberry diseases and the need for processing in the spring

Each disease develops in certain soil and climatic conditions, so before planting, you need to take into account the likelihood of developing pathologies of this variety in your area.

Despite this, all diseases have characteristic symptoms and factors that provoke the development of certain pathologies. Let's consider them in more detail.

The reasons

Most diseases develop due to fungal spores. The onset of warm weather and high humidity contribute to their spread throughout the site.

Note: Often the gardener himself is guilty of an infection in the beds if he buys seedlings of unknown origin in the market or from neighbors.

Also, the following reasons contribute to the development of ailments:

  • dense plantings, including overgrowing of the site with weeds that impair the ventilation of the beds;
  • non-observance of crop rotation rules, placement near crops prone to the same diseases;
  • lack of care (trimming of mustaches and leaves, loosening);
  • depleted soil with a lack of magnesium, potassium and other elements;
  • rare top dressing, weakening the immunity of the bushes;
  • excess moisture.

In addition, diseases can also appear if strawberries are planted in the wrong place, and the plants feel an acute shortage of sunlight. Also, infections and fungi are spread by pests, so these insects need to be destroyed in time.

Symptoms

The first sign indicating that the plant is sick is spots on the leaves. The color of the spots may suggest the cause of the disease. They can be red, brown, light or rusty. At the first appearance of such spots, the plant is subjected to immediate treatment (Figure 1).


Figure 1. Common strawberry diseases: rot, rust and powdery mildew

Symptoms of diseases are different, but you should always pay attention to the general condition of the bushes. If the strawberry begins to lean, the leaves dry quickly, turn brown, which means that the pathology is developing. If treatment is not applied as soon as possible, then in a few months the plant will die.

Often the treatment is carried out in isolation. For this, the diseased bush is dug up and placed in a separate container, where they are treated. In the worst case, the disease can migrate to neighboring bushes and it will be much more difficult to deal with it. With a strong defeat of the seedling, it is immediately removed from the garden and burned.

Note: If regular wilting of strawberries occurs from year to year, the type or quality of the soil may not be suitable for the selected varieties. In this case, you should choose the most disease-resistant varieties.

There are cases when it is impossible to determine the presence of a disease, and you can find out about it only when the first inflorescences are formed. They are deformed and stained. If the berries are formed under such conditions, then they are still green covered with brown spots, then they become stale and dry. Ripe fruits lose their sweetness, become tasteless and bitter.

Strawberry diseases and their treatment: video

The author of the video will tell you more about the processing of strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests, as well as about the main diseases of this crop.

Processing strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests

To get a good harvest, it is necessary to carry out spring processing of strawberries from diseases and pests, as well as a number of agrotechnical measures that will help keep the plants healthy and get a rich harvest.

There are several methods of prevention, as well as certain rules for processing plants.

Processing features

When processing strawberry plantings in the spring, experienced gardeners recommend removing the top layer of soil. Thus, we can get rid of many pests. If this is not possible for you, then you need to loosen the soil well and remove the weeds. Sanitize plants, remove dry and damaged leaves. This should be done in dry sunny weather and very carefully so as not to damage the bush, since the plants are still weak after winter and not sufficiently rooted (Figure 2).


Figure 2. Treatment of strawberries against diseases and pests

After cleaning the beds, you need to start the preventive treatment of plantings from pests and diseases, especially fungal ones. It is good to spray the bushes with copper-containing preparations. This will reduce the likelihood of damage to plants by spotting, powdery mildew, verticillium. It must be remembered that the treatment should be carried out before the plant begins to bloom.

Note: During the flowering period, biological preparations can be used. With a strong infection of plantings, a week after harvesting, the bushes need to be mowed.

It is impossible to allow an excess of nitrogen, constantly carry out top dressing with both organic and mineral fertilizers. It is not recommended to use fresh manure, it can cause infections and pests.

Ways

With the onset of spring, it is necessary to process strawberries from diseases and pests. To do this, you can use chemicals or biological products. Many gardeners recommend treating strawberries and other crops with hot water. To do this, the water is heated to a temperature of + 60-65 degrees and the bushes are watered from above. The main thing is that the water does not cool down in advance, and the distance between the bush and the watering can is about a meter.

When the earth warms up well, the landings again need to be mulched. Pine or spruce needles, straw, or special material can be used as mulch. The mulch will act as an antiseptic.

Rules

Planting begins after the snow has completely melted. First of all, last year's layer of mulch and other debris are raked, then the top layer of soil is removed. Next, you need to feed the plants with organic or mineral fertilizers. After that, the plantings are dug deep and thinned out.

To reduce the likelihood of diseases and pests, they are guided by the following rules:

  • The soil is treated before planting;
  • Seedlings are purchased from trusted suppliers, better - in specialized nurseries;
  • Timely carry out proper care, remove weeds;
  • Every 3-4 years, transplant strawberries to a new place;
  • Plant repellent plants, such as calendula or marigolds, next to strawberry plantings.

When processing bushes, special biological products and chemical solutions are used. All work is carried out in the morning or in the evening. It is impossible to carry out such events in the hot time of the day.

Treatment scheme for pests and diseases

There is no specific scheme for processing strawberries from diseases and pests. The main thing in the fight is to take preventive measures in time (Figure 3).


Figure 3. Scheme of spring processing of strawberries from diseases and pests

In spring, you need to remove the top layer of soil between the bushes and replace it with fresh soil. If this fails, remove last year's mulch and loosen the soil well. Remove old leaves and mustaches, plant young rosettes in place of dead bushes. Apply fertilizer to the soil and treat for diseases and pests.

After the strawberries begin to grow, the bed needs to be mulched. Before flowering should be treated against pests and fungal diseases. When the first buds appear in the soil, it is necessary to apply phosphate fertilizers, and after flowering - complex mineral fertilizers.

Processing strawberries in the fall from pests and diseases

In autumn, the garden needs special care. And although the strawberry crop has already been harvested, it still needs pruning, feeding, watering, loosening and processing from diseases and pests.

The correctness of the autumn care will determine how successfully the plants will endure the winter and whether they will be able to actively bear fruit next year.

Processing features

The fight against diseases and pests is the prevention of negative factors and preventive measures. Prevention can be carried out by folk methods and with the help of special preparations. But even supporters of folk remedies admit that it is better to fight ailments with modern drugs. They should be used in spring or autumn, when the plants do not bear fruit. In order for the plants to look good, the autumn processing of strawberries should be carried out systematically.

Of the strawberry pests, the most common are: spider mites, strawberry weevil, snails, slugs, aphids. Of the diseases - gray, brown and white spotting, powdery mildew.

For processing strawberries in the fall, the following preparations are used: Nitrofen, Topaz, Actellik, Karbofos, Metaldegrid and others, as well as folk remedies for pest control. You can also use Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. Slugs and snails must be independently collected from the bushes and destroyed.

For prevention, it is necessary to constantly remove weeds, water and feed the plants, loosen the soil, cut dry and diseased leaves and shoots.

Ways

The best method of controlling diseases and pests is prevention. But, if this could not be done, then they use different methods of struggle.

The strawberry mite is considered the most dangerous pest. To combat it, spraying with karbofos is used. Carry out this procedure after the last harvest. This method can be used to control weevils, whiteflies and other pests. In the fight against weevil, crop rotation should be taken into account, as well as spraying plants during the period of active life with Nurell D, karate, and zolon preparations.

You can get rid of slugs by picking them up with your hands or using Metaldehyde granular. After fruiting, granules are laid out under each bush, which destroy slugs.

Among the diseases, gray rot is considered the most common. To combat the disease, plantings are treated with copper oxychloride before flowering, and after harvesting, a solution of copper oxychloride and liquid soap is used. You can not thicken the landing.

From brown spotting, liquid cute and copper oxychloride are used. Spraying is carried out in early spring and autumn. When the bushes are affected by powdery mildew, strawberries are treated with Sulfaride, potassium permanganate or colloidal sulfur before flowering.

Rules

When carrying out autumn processing of strawberries from diseases and pests, the following rules should be observed:

  • When using special solutions, they should be diluted only according to the instructions;
  • Processing of plants is carried out in the early morning or late evening;
  • Spray the bushes after the last harvest;
  • A plant infected with late blight in a neglected form is removed from the garden and burned.

In order to prevent the spread of diseases and pests, it is necessary to remove weeds in a timely manner, feed the plants and loosen the ground, as well as periodically inspect the plantings to detect the first signs of the disease.

The author of the video tells how to properly care for strawberries in different seasons.

Treatment of strawberry late blight

Late blight is considered one of the most common diseases. It affects different types of plants and can be transmitted from one crop to another.

This disease is dangerous because its pathogen can persist in the soil, therefore, when the first symptoms of the pathology are detected, treatment should be started immediately.

The reasons

The appearance of late blight often manifests itself in the second half of summer. Rainy weather and high temperatures contribute to rapid spread.

The causative agents of the disease are fungi that are transmitted by zoospores. The infection scheme looks simple: the spores of the fungus fall on the aerial parts of neighboring plants or are washed into the ground by rain. Phytophthora affects both aboveground parts of plants (stems, leaves, fruits) and underground (tubers).

Very often, strawberry bushes become infected with late blight from tomatoes and potatoes planted nearby.

Symptoms

Signs of late blight are gray-brown spots, which are covered with a coating resembling a cobweb or surrounded by a ring of white mold (Figure 4). The leaves of the affected plant wither, brown spots appear on the petioles and peduncles, which soon rot, it noticeably lags behind in growth. Parts of the plants that are affected die off, sometimes the plants die.

Note: In infected plants, the number of rosettes decreases, the leaves on them are deformed, the whiskers become short. In autumn, you can see signs of late blight on the roots. Small roots all die off, thereby exposing larger ones, they soon begin to rot. The wood of the root is painted black-brown.

When the buds bloom, the core of the inflorescences looks dead. The pistils turn black, but the corolla remains white. This may resemble freezing in the spring, but with late blight, the shape of diseased flowers differs from healthy ones. In addition, berries are no longer formed from such flowers.


Figure 4. Symptoms of strawberry late blight

The disease brings great losses to ovaries and immature fruits. The berries are bent, lose their taste and become unsuitable for transportation and storage. Brown spots on the pulp become bitter and hard, soon the berries dry out and die. To distinguish a diseased berry from one that lacks water, you can simply cut it: if the core of the dark berry is affected.

Verticillium wilt of strawberries: treatment

Strawberries are affected by verticillium at any age. The most obvious symptoms during the fruiting period.

Consider the main causes that can cause the disease, as well as the symptoms of the disease, by which it can be determined that the shrub needs treatment.

The reasons

Verticillium wilt of strawberries is caused by a fungus. The harmfulness of this disease is expressed in a rapid decrease in yield and the death of bushes. The affected plant dies in the second year.

Note: The disease most often manifests itself in beds where the predecessors were crops susceptible to the disease: potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cotton, raspberries, etc.

The disease affects plants of any age. The manifestation of the disease begins in late May - early June and continues to develop throughout the growing season. Plants are infected with verticillium through the root system. Once in the roots, the mycelium of the fungus penetrates the conducting system and multiplies. As it becomes infected inside, the root becomes brown and dies.

Symptoms

Symptoms of the disease vary depending on soil type, strawberry variety and other causes (Figure 5).

Drying begins with damage to the root neck, vascular system, rosette and root system. The infected plant lags behind in growth, then the leaves begin to lie down on the ground and turn red-yellow.


Figure 5. Signs of verticillium wilt of strawberries

In the chronic form, a gradual increase in symptoms occurs, which is expressed in a lag in the growth of leaves and a decrease in their number. By the end of the growing season, the petioles of the leaves become red and die imperceptibly. Some bushes manage to survive and give new growth in the spring. This is achieved by varieties that are resistant to fungi.

To avoid the occurrence of this disease, you need to observe crop rotation and choose resistant varieties bred by breeders.

Treatment of chlorosis in strawberries

Chlorosis is not a very serious disease, and if you notice the signs in time and take certain actions, you can save the plant. But in order to do this, you need to know the causes and signs of the disease.

The reasons

The most common signs of chlorosis are (Figure 6):

  • Infection: A plant can become ill with chlorosis due to infection by insects and pests from diseased plants, as well as from diseases accumulated over the years in the soil.
  • Lack of trace elements and minerals in the diet: this is the most common cause of the disease. Plants need magnesium, zinc, iron, lime, etc., so they need to be fed regularly.
  • Conditions for care and planting: the occurrence of chlorosis may be due to damage to the root system, poor-quality soil conditions, improper arrangement of beds, or improper care and watering.

To begin to properly treat plants, you need to determine the true cause of the disease.

Symptoms

Symptoms of the disease can be different, detailed information can be obtained by conducting special laboratory tests. But there are a number of external signs by which you can determine which trace element the plant lacks.


Figure 6. Symptoms of strawberry chlorosis

The most common type is iron chlorosis. The leaf plate uniformly turns yellow or white, the veins remain green. Upper young leaves suffer first.

Magnesium chlorosis occurs due to a lack of magnesium. Often found in light sandy soils. The edges of the old lower leaves begin to turn yellow first, and then the entire leaf.

In spring, zinc chlorosis is very common, especially on older leaves. The disease begins with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Dots of red, orange or yellow appear on the leaf plates.

Nitrogen chlorosis is manifested by yellowing veins on the lower leaves. Soon, the parts of the leaf adjacent to the veins lose color, then the entire leaf. Sulfuric chlorosis first affects young leaves. First, the veins turn yellow, and then the entire leaf plate.

Strawberry brown spot: treatment during flowering

Brown spotting is a widespread fungal disease. Its development is affected by increased humidity associated with constant precipitation or excessive watering. Because of this, the disease can appear in spring, summer and autumn.

The reasons

The cause of the disease is the mycelium of the fungus. The main feature of this pathogen is its two-season nature: in the first year, development occurs during fruiting and is stored for the winter. A year later, in late spring, when the fruits begin to form, a second infection occurs, which negatively affects the crop.

The development of the disease is provoked by the same factors as other fungal infections: excessive watering, dense plantings, constant dampness of the soil in the garden, temporary cooling and overgrowing of the site with weeds.

Symptoms

Obvious signs of the disease are burns on the leaves (Figure 7). These are contourless brown-brown spots of oval or round shape. At the initial stage, they resemble small opaces along the edges of the leaf, after a while the spots grow, and dark leathery mushroom pads appear on top. Mustaches and peduncles are also covered with brown spots.


Figure 7. Signs of brown spot on strawberry leaves

Soon the leaves dry up and die, and the spores of the fungus remain. At the first rainfall, the spores will disperse throughout the garden.

Protection of strawberries from pests and diseases

To protect the bushes and get good yields, you need to apply an integrated system that includes agrotechnical, chemical, biological and quarantine measures.

Agrotechnical ones imply compliance with crop rotation, fulfillment of requirements for the timing and methods of soil cultivation, planting, weed control, and fertilization.

The chemical method consists in the use of special means of protection against a group of pests and diseases. To do this, in early spring, you need to remove damaged and dry leaves. At the first signs of powdery mildew, spotting and gray rot, the planting is treated with a Bordeaux mixture before the leaves begin to grow. During the period of leaf regrowth, when signs of white and brown spotting appear, they are treated with Euparen. During the formation of buds, they are treated against moths, gall midges and other pests with Actellik. After harvesting, plantings are treated with Topaz, Euparen or Switch.

Spring care lays the foundation for the future harvest. Regardless of the time of planting, strawberries need special attention in the spring after the winter awakening. The obligatory measures and intricacies of processing, as well as the advice of experienced gardeners, will be discussed in this article.

Many believe that strawberries are quite unpretentious and bear fruit under any conditions. This opinion is based on the fact that in the wild, strawberries survive without care and bait. However, home beds are not the natural habitat of culture, and many varieties are hybrids, requiring certain growing conditions.

Some species are very capricious, the yield is reduced even with proper processing. And in order for the plant to bear fruit abundantly and for a long time, you need to make a lot of effort.

The following activities are considered the most important:

  • irrigation (for the vegetative process);
  • loosening (enrichment of the soil with oxygen, prevention of soil compaction);
  • bait (in order to increase the yield and quality of berries);
  • mulching (to protect the plant from drying out and frost);
  • (to prolong the period of abundant fruiting).

Before planting, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of the selected varieties. Each crop needs certain conditions, so it is better to plant strawberries of different types in separate beds. This will make care easier.

Processing strawberries after winter

Work on the beds must begin, as soon as the snow melted and the earth dried up not later than early May. For plants, this is not only an important, but also a vulnerable period, which is characterized by unstable weather, temperature fluctuations, frosts on the ground. Support is needed to create favorable conditions during the formation of flower buds that ripen into berries.

In order to speed up the melting of late snow, gardeners sprinkle ash or salt (in moderation) on the strawberry plantation.

Preparing the beds in the garden for the new season includes the following steps:

  • cleaning from dry leaves, mulch lined in autumn to protect plants from frost;
  • inspection of each bush in order to trim dry leaves, frozen shoots, extra tendrils;
  • weed removal;
  • loosening the soil;
  • soil enrichment nutrients.

It is not worth leaving autumn mulch for the next season, since a complex of phytopathogens and pests often develops on garden soils rich in organic matter.

Clean beds should be inspected for finding a point of growth. After a long wintering and snow melting, the root system of some plants is exposed. If open tubers are found, they should be carefully sprinkled using a lightweight mixture of soil, sand and peat and proper care should be taken.

Seating old bushes and how to reanimate the crop if it had time to freeze

After inspecting the bed, you need to determine which plants can move away from minor freezing, and which should be removed. If the bush had time to freeze or freeze, noticeably weakened or has most of the burgundy branches, it better to remove. Sense will still be small.

Spring time is characterized by the activation of vegetative growth, so planting a new seedling in the garden to revive the crop will not be difficult. Moreover, the percentage of survival with such a landing in the country in the summer is quite high.


Stages of work:

  • dig up an old bush that managed to freeze under the root and remove the tuber from the soil;
  • select a few old plants (not older than 3 years) for seedlings;
  • cut the root into several parts so that each fragment has 3-4 leaves;
  • process the roots a solution of potassium permanganate (slightly pink);
  • prepare a hole, introduce humus mixed with peat or other nitrogen fertilizer into it;
  • install seedlings in the pits and cover with earth, leveling the heart with the surface of the soil (when deepening, there is a high risk of decay).

Weeding berries in spring

After winter, the beds must be weeded and hilled. It is necessary to wield glanders carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Strawberries do not like to be disturbed unnecessarily, so you need to care and weed carefully, large weeds are better. pluck or cut near the ground surface secateurs. This will limit the invasion of the root system of the culture.

The berry is especially sensitive to processing during the flowering period, so all work on cleaning and processing the plant should be completed before this stage, doing them, peeling strawberries should be done step by step according to the instructions. Otherwise, the inflorescences that appear on the damaged bush may fade.

When weeding, it is recommended cut off the first mustache so that they do not pull on nutrients when flowering. In addition, the second release is characterized by a more powerful structure, which contributes to the rapid rooting of new shoots.


Spring dressing and how to process for a good harvest

For feeding strawberries, different types of fertilizers are used: organic, mineral, complex. Organic is considered the most affordable, it will not be difficult to get your own compost pit or container. When preparing a nutrient solution, adhere to the recommended proportions especially with bird droppings. Overdose can burn plants.

To stimulate the growth of seedlings, it is necessary to treat with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Phosphorus is best introduced in the middle of summer, they will help strawberries get stronger and prepare for wintering. Complementary foods after winter are necessary for the active development of shoots, the formation of buds, in the place of which fruits are formed.

Most often they use urea, Bordeaux mixture, iodine, they need to be watered with flowering Victoria. Water or spray the plant according to the instructions.

In spring, not only plants awaken, but also insects, microorganisms located in the upper layers of the soil. Young seedlings, as well as mature bushes, need protection from diseases and pests. This can be achieved with the help of special preparations.


Modern means perfectly cope with the prevention and treatment of various diseases, without inhibiting the development of the culture itself. The greatest danger to strawberries is the fungus, so soil moisture control is the best prevention.

Proper spraying from pests

The best treatment is timely prevention.

This principle guides gardeners when growing and protecting strawberries. Popular assistants in proper spraying are the following tools:

  • "Zircon" - increases immunity to almost all diseases, does not contain chemistry;
  • "Fitosporin", "Fito plus" - preparations for gray rot;
  • "Phytocide" - eliminates fungal diseases;
  • "Aktellik", "Aktofit" - help get rid of insects that carry infections and pests.

A tool with a wide spectrum of action deserves special attention. if they spray the plant:

  • fights pests and ticks;
  • protects against late blight, macrospariosis, etc.;
  • stimulates plant growth;
  • toxic in particular to larvae, eggs of insects.

The main advantage of the drug - absolute security for crops in the fight.

Among gardeners there are many folk recipes, which are sometimes not inferior in efficiency to store ones. One option is to connect copper sulfate and lime. Such a mixture copes well with fungus and pests. Not bad wins fungal diseases and potassium permanganate.

Important tips for processing and care

In addition to the general rules for caring for strawberries, there are various nuances and secrets, the authors of which are experienced gardeners. Their advice helps to increase productivity, saturate the berry with juiciness and a unique taste.


  • When choosing a place for planting strawberries, it is worth giving preference to the site where they were previously grown: onions, beets, carrots, garlic, celery, greens.
  • Shoots develop well in light soils. It is recommended to add peat and sand to dense soil.
  • It is not worth fertilizing the soil just before planting; it is better to do this in the fall during spring planting. After the introduction of nutrition in the spring, you need to let the soil settle for at least a month.
  • When choosing an irrigation system, the choice is better to stop on drip irrigation or sprinkling.
  • Young shoots need trace elements. A good food for them will be a mixture of potassium permanganate, boric acid, ammonium molybdate and water.

To make spring work easier to carry out without missing important points, it is recommended to draw up an action plan for crop processing. The plant will surely reward the efforts and time spent with a generous harvest.

With the onset of spring and the arrival of heat, various pathogens and pests are activated (wake up), which pose a serious danger to the health of the bushes and the production of a quality crop of delicious strawberry berries.

Why treat strawberries in the spring: diseases and pests of the crop

Knowing the enemies of strawberries, so to speak, “in person”, you can easily protect the garden from unwanted guests by choosing the right preparations for processing strawberries from pests and diseases.

Diseases

  • powdery mildew and gray mold.

  • Gray rot is a common and dangerous disease of strawberries.

  • White spotting (septoria).

  • brown spot.

By the way! More about red and brown spotting you can read .

The most dangerous are strawberry infectious diseases(verticillium or verticillium wilt, fusarium or fusarium wilt and late blight).

Unfortunately, there are no specific means of combating these diseases. You just need to carry out standard preventive measures. Namely, carry out regular pruning of leaves in spring and autumn, remove plant debris, weed the beds from weeds.

Bushes infected with these diseases should be removed from the strawberry bed along with an earthen clod, removed from the site or burned.

It is believed that Switch is an effective drug for Fusarium.

Pests

  • strawberry mite- sucks juices from young, folded together leaves, which eventually wrinkle and change color. Bushes stop developing and often die off in winter.

By the way! It is believed that strawberries are also attacked by other varieties of mites - brown and spider.

Video: protection against strawberry mites

  • Raspberry strawberry weevil- beetles eat away leaves and buds, gnaw the pedicel, as a result, the buds break and fall off.

Video: spraying strawberries to kill the weevil

  • Whitefly.

  • Strawberry sawfly - sawfly larvae damage leaves (eat holes in them).
  • Slugs and snails- large holes are eaten out in strawberries, which leads to the death of the crop.

By the way! The site already has a separate material about.

  • Medvedka- gnaws the roots of strawberries, which leads to the death of plants.

  • In more rare cases, strawberries can be attacked nematode andaphid.

Preventive measures to protect strawberries

On old dry (dried) leaves, plant debris and weeds that died during the winter, fungal spores and pest eggs hibernate, which means you need to carry out regular pruning (leaf mowing)- and, as well as clean the beds of excess debris at the beginning and end of the season.

This measure will significantly reduce the number of pests and diseases, especially in case of severe damage to strawberry bushes by spotting and mites.

If during the growing season you notice that leaves heavily affected by blotches, then they need completely remove - cut with secateurs, leaving only growing young leaves.

The same goes for diseased berries affected by gray rot - they need to be quickly torn down and destroyed.

Another measure for the prevention and control of pests and diseases is regular weed weeding.

In addition, one of the main preventive measures is maintaining normal plant density, because fungal diseases develop especially strongly during thickening.

Biological pest control is planting strong-smelling plants on the sides of strawberry beds, for example, calendula, which, with their strong smell, will scare away insect pests (the same weevils). Or you can just pick up tansy, yarrow and put between strawberry plants.

How to properly handle strawberries in spring

  • Don't forget about personal protective equipment when preparing solutions and performing direct processing.
  • Samu processing it is desirable to carry out in dry and calm weather.
  • Carefully read the drug instructions, including at what temperature it is necessary to carry out processing.

Note! It is useless to work with colloidal sulfur in cool weather, as well as with the sulfur-containing drug Thiovit Jet: the optimum temperature is + 25-30 degrees, then the sulfur will evaporate.

  • You need to spray not only the bushes (leaves) themselves, but and soil between bushes or mulch(if your bushes are mulched), since pathogens and pests (fungal spores and pest eggs) winter in the soil.

Important! If strawberry last or this season was heavily affected by diseases and pests, it is recommended remove all old mulch and then process it.

  • you can cook tank mix(from 2-3 selected products), having previously dissolved each drug separately in water (according to the instructions), and then pour the resulting solutions into a common container (sprayer) and carry out a comprehensive treatment for both diseases and pests.

Worth knowing! If after mixing the preparations the precipitate does not fall out, they can be used in the tank mix.

  • Ideally, preparations with different active ingredients should be used at each stage for spraying, so that pests do not have resistance (do not develop addiction). However, as an option, you can alternate them, including every season.

Are chemicals dangerous, is it better to use biological products

Preparations for the treatment of strawberry bushes from diseases and pests can be of both biological and chemical origin.

Of course, it is believed that it is safest to spray strawberries with biological products or use folk remedies (although they may not be of biological origin), since they are absolutely safe for human health. However, it is in the spring (before fruiting) that chemicals can also be used without any consequences, especially if your strawberry bushes are often affected by various diseases or they are attacked by insects (the same mites). The bottom line is that after the waiting period, all harmful substances(pesticides) withdrawn long before ripening and picking berries.

When to process strawberries in spring: schedule and processing scheme

Before processing, you must complete. And only after that already spray strawberry bushes.

As a rule, the strawberry processing scheme in spring consists of spraying in the following phases of crop development:

  • in early spring, after the formation of new leaves;
  • before flowering;
  • after flowering and the formation of the first ovaries.

At the same time, at each stage it is necessary to carry out treatments for both pests and diseases.

In early spring

In early spring, when the aerial part of the plant begins to grow and develop intensively, i.e. after the formation of new young leaves - it is necessary to carry out the first treatment from pests, especially against ticks. For this, drugs such as Vertimek, Fufanon-Nova, Masai, Aktellik are suitable.

Also during this period it is desirable to carry out treatment for diseases - various spots (white and brown), powdery mildew. For example, you can use a fungicide such as Horus.

During budding (before buds open)

Also, treatment with Actellik or Fufanon Nova will help to continue the fight against ticks (because the drug has an acaricidal effect), whiteflies and aphids.

At the same time (after the buds are formed, but the flowers have not yet blossomed), the first treatment should be carried out against gray rot. For this, the Switch preparation is ideal, which can also be used in the fight against powdery mildew, white and brown spots. In addition, from gray rot and powdery mildew, you can use Agrolekar or Chistoflor, Bayleton, etc.

By the way! In principle, we can prepare a tank mix from Aktellik and Switch, but it is still better to do separate treatments with an interval of at least 1 day.

After flowering

When the first flowering has passed and the ovaries are formed, i.e. about 10-14 days after the previous spray, you will need to repeat treatment against gray rot. Again, you can use Switch, which also works against strawberry blotches. Or already start using biological products (Trichoderma Veride, Planriz or Rizoplan, Fitosporin, Alirin-B).

This is especially true if the forecast promises rain (wet weather).

And if you notice that the strawberry beds are affected by a tick, then again you need to treat the strawberries with one of the chemical acaricidal preparations, for example, Vertimek, Actellik, Fufanon-Nova, or apply biological preparations (Fitoverm or Aktofit).

After harvest

After you have harvested the last berries, you will need to carry out an autumn eradication of strawberries to reduce the number of pests (including whiteflies) that are going to winter during this period.

Typically, for this purpose, solution, although you can apply and simply either use .

Advice! How to carry out the autumn processing of the garden is described.

How to process strawberries in spring

To protect garden strawberries from diseases and pests, there are a fairly large number of different means, so you need to familiarize yourself with their list in advance and choose the ones that are right for you (including cost). You also need to decide when, how and in what quantity you will use them.

Important! The instructions for each drug always indicate when (at what time) and how many times they can and should be processed.

So, all means for spring processing of strawberries are divided into 3 groups:

  • fungicides (drugs to fight diseases);

By the way! In this case, fungicides are divided into preparations protective (preventive) and curative action, as well as protective and healing (complex).

Of course, it is optimal to use complex preparations with protective and therapeutic effects.

Accordingly, if you noticed signs of illness, then no preventive (protective) means will help you, only treating (or protective-treating).

  • insecticides (pest control agents);

There are also acaricides- means for combating ticks. They are more often called insecticides, because they also destroy other pests.

  • insectofungicides (complex preparations that act simultaneously against pests and diseases).

By origin, these products (fungicides and insecticides) can be:

  • chemical (those same "chemicals");
  • biological (biological products).

Of course, there are folk remedies, for example, various herbal solutions and infusions, but their effectiveness is very, very limited.

Biological agents against diseases and pests

Biologicals fungicidal action(against diseases):

  • Alirin-B ( Bacillus subtilis strain B-10 VIZR, systemic-contact fungicide of protective and curative action, against gray rot and powdery mildew);

  • Phytosporin ( Bacillus subtilis strain 26 D, a systemic fungicide with a protective and curative effect, against gray rot, white and brown spotting);

  • Planris ( Pseudomonas fluorescens strain AP-33, contact fungicide, against gray rot);

  • Rizoplan ( Pseudomonas fluorescens strain AP-33, contact fungicide, against gray rot);

Planriz and Rizoplan are complete analogues.

  • Trichoderma Veride ( Trichoderma veride strain 471, protective fungicide, against gray rot);

Trichoderma, Trichocin, Trichoplant and Trichoderma Veride are all based on fungi of the Trichoderma genus.

  • Sporobacterin ( Bacillus subtilis and Trichoderma viride strain 4097, a systemic contact fungicide with a protective and curative effect, against gray rot and powdery mildew).

Video: processing garden strawberries and strawberries from diseases with biological products

Biologicals insecticidal action(against pests):

    Aversectin C, enteric-contact insectoacaricide against ticks, whiteflies, aphids)

Actofit and Fitoverm are complete analogues.

  • Bitoxibacillin ( Bacillus thuringiensis var. thuringiensis, intestinal insectoacaricide, against weevil, ticks, sawfly).

Chemical fungicides (anti-disease agents)

For spring spraying of strawberries from diseases, you can use the following fungicides:

Important! For one treatment you only have to choose one drug (fungicide), and then use a new one (preferably with another active ingredient) or alternate.

  • Agrodoctor. Active substance - Propiconazole

  • Chistoflor. Active substance - Propiconazole, a systemic fungicide with protective and curative action against gray rot and powdery mildew.

Agrodoctor and Chistoflor are complete analogues, as is Propi Plus.

  • Byleton. Active substance - Triadymephon (Byleton), a systemic fungicide with protective and curative action against gray rot and powdery mildew.
  • Switch. Active ingredients - Fludioxonil and Cyprodinil, a contact-systemic fungicide with a protective and curative effect against gray rot, as well as from powdery mildew, white and brown spots.

  • Horus. Active substance - Cyprodinil, a contact-systemic fungicide with a protective and curative effect, against spotting (white and brown), powdery mildew.

  • Topaz. Active substance - Penconazole (Topaz), a systemic protective fungicide, from powdery mildew.

Chemical insecticides (drugs against pests)

To treat strawberries from pests, you can use the following insecticides:

  • Abiga Peak. Active substance - copper oxychloride, protective contact fungicide from a tick.

Abiga Peak \u003d Hom \u003d Copper oxychloride.

  • colloidal sulfur- contact fungicide protective action against powdery mildew and mites.

  • Thiovit Jet. Active substance - sulfur, contact fungicide and acaricide, against powdery mildew and mites.

  • Actellik. Active ingredient - Pirimiphos-methyl (Actellik), a systemic insecticide of contact-intestinal action of weevils, aphids, mites, whiteflies.

  • Ram. Active substance - Zeta-cypermethrin, enteric-contact insectoacaricide from weevil.
  • Fufanon-Nova. Active substance - Malathion (Karbofos), enteric-contact insecticide against weevil, aphids, mites, whiteflies, sawflies.

Fufanon Expert = this is a complete analogue of Fufanon-Nova, like Karbofos.

  • Alatar. Active ingredients - Malathion and cypermethrin, intestinal-contact insectoacaricide, from weevil, aphids, ticks);

  • Vertimek. Active substance - Abamectin, insectoacaricide of intestinal-contact action against ticks, aphids, thrips and other pests.

  • Masai. Active substance - Tebufenpyrad, acaricide of enteric-contact action against ticks (has a pronounced ovicidal effect against summer oviposition).

Against weevils can also be applied Inta-Vir and Iskra.

Insecticides against gastropod pests of strawberries - slugs and snails:

  • slug eater ( Metaldehyde

  • Thunderstorm ( Metaldehyde, enteric-contact insecticide, against slugs and snails);

Slug Eater and Thunderstorm are complete analogues.

If you notice that your strawberry bushes are being damaged bear, then something needs to be done about it.

Note! The site already has material about.

  • Grizzly ( Diazinon, a systemic enteric-contact insecticide, from soil pests - from a bear).

  • Terradox (Diazinon, a systemic enteric-contact insecticide, against soil pests - from the bear and others).

Grizzly and Terradox are complete analogues.

Granules of both products must be applied to the soil to a depth of 2-5 cm after harvest.

Folk remedies against diseases and pests of strawberries

One of the most effective pharmacy products for processing strawberry bushes from diseases is the use of brilliant green (diluted in water in the proportion of 4-5 drops per 1 liter of water). According to some gardeners, brilliant green- it is an excellent antiseptic that helps in the fight against gray mold, powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.

Another folk remedy for prevention of fungal diseases garden strawberry is horse sorrel infusion(fill a bucket of finely chopped sorrel with water and insist for 2-3 days), and you can simply pour under each bush (0.5 liters of infusion) or spray on the foliage.

Boiling water- a truly folk remedy from strawberry mite. The procedure must be carried out when the air temperature is not lower than +5 degrees. It is at this temperature that the tick comes out of hibernation. It is necessary to pour into the center of the bush, where the pests sit. At the same time, it should be understood that you will not burn the bushes in any way: after all, while you bring a bucket of water to the garden, while you pour it into a watering can, the temperature will drop to + 70-80 degrees.

For guard from slugs and snails can be used spruce needles(mulch her beds). Compared to pine, it is shorter and more prickly. But from gray rot, you can take straw or hay, again, mulch her beds, because. under it, a microflora develops that is antagonistic to fungal infections (hay bacillus).

Against pests, you can try to use various herbal decoctions and infusions - tomato and potato tops, garlic, onion peel, dandelion, wormwood, tansy. Pollinate the beds with wood ash and tobacco dust.

If your strawberry crop is really threatened by pests and diseases, then be sure to treat strawberry bushes with special preparations (fungicides and insecticides, including acaricidal action - against ticks). At the same time, you can use both chemical and biological means, since now everything you need is on sale. Let your strawberries do not get sick and bear fruit abundantly. Good luck!

Video: strawberry pest and disease protection systems

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