How to plant apple trees. When is the best time to plant apple trees: in spring or autumn. young tree care

Each gardener strives to grow beautiful, liquid, sweet apples on his plot. The technology of planting these trees is quite simple and feasible for everyone. The survival and further development of seedlings depends on the observance of a few simple rules and recommendations.

Site requirements for planting apple trees

Before you start populating your site with young plantations, you need to make sure that it meets the following requirements.

Bright lighting promotes fruiting. The shading of young seedlings by nearby large trees leads to a deviation in development, a decrease in the quantity and quality of fruits.
A good area is considered to be protected from strong winds and at the same time well ventilated.
The land should be fertile, enriched with useful substances.

If you plan to plant several seedlings, then you need to do this in one place, without alternating them with other plantations. This contributes to good pollination and abundant fruiting. The fight against diseases and pests is also more convenient to carry out with a compact placement of plants.

When to plant apple trees

The best adaptation to new conditions is observed during the period of cessation of sap flow and the transition of the plant to sleep. Trees enter this state after the cessation of the growing season (September - October) and is in it until the awakening of the kidneys. Therefore, planting seedlings is best done in the spring and autumn periods.

In winter, the trees are generally in a state of complete rest. However, they cannot be planted during this season, since young roots die off when they enter frozen soil. Winter planting technology is used only occasionally in certain regions and only for large, mature trees.

When is it better to plant an apple tree, in spring or autumn, is an ambiguous question and in most cases depends on the characteristics of a particular climatic zone. In regions where there are sharp drops in temperature already at the end of October, it is best to carry out this procedure in the spring (April - May). This will prevent the risk of freezing of the root system. In warmer areas, planting seedlings is recommended in mid-autumn.

Land preparation for planting an apple tree

Initially, it is necessary to prepare the soil for a young plant. The earth from the dug hole should be folded into one pile, and not scattered throughout the site. The width and depth of the hole should be slightly larger than the root system of the apple tree. . The bottom and walls of the hole should be slightly fluffed.

In areas with a thin layer of black soil, the earth should be divided into two parts, and when burying seedlings, follow the same sequence.

The excavated earth is mixed with humus and (700-800 g). With a strong depletion of the soil, you can add a little complex mineral fertilizers, such as nitroammophoska. At the bottom of the recess, it is recommended to put some kind of metal object (hammer reinforcement, corner, channel, nails, etc.). This will provide the plantings with the necessary iron.

How to plant an apple tree

Before planting, the tips of the root system, the top of the trunk and the branches of the seedling should be cut with secateurs. It is most convenient to carry out further procedures together. Having set the plant in the hole in a vertical position, one person should hold it by the trunk, and the other should cover the root system with the prepared soil. At the same time, it is important to monitor the direction of its branches - they should be directed downwards or be in a horizontal position. Otherwise, incorrect further formation of the root system may occur, which will lead to a lack of nutrients.

The seedling should be filled up in such a way that the root neck of the plant is 3-5 cm above ground level. Failure to comply with this rule will negatively affect the further development of the tree.

After filling the roots, you should abundantly fill the hole with water. After the soil settles, it is necessary to add it again to the desired level, and then pour it again. The water (by suction) compacts the loosened earth. Many gardeners prefer to trample the soil with their feet, which is not correct and can damage the root system. The next day after planting, cracks will appear around the entire circumference of the hole, which need to be loosened.

When performing work in the spring, the first time the plantings must be watered every two to three days (depending on weather conditions). If, after a spring transplant, a color forms on the trees, then it should be cut off to allow the trees to properly strengthen.

Planting apple trees in autumn does not require further, since sap flow stops during this period, and an abundance of moisture can only harm (especially on the eve of approaching frost).

When transplanting a seedling, it is desirable to notice and exactly repeat the geographical direction of its trunk in relation to any of the poles (south / north).

Planting an apple tree in the summer is very rare. Most often, this is a forced measure to move a plant from one place to another. Even with careful preparation of the soil and abundant care, the survival rate of trees during active vegetation is very low. Planting an apple tree in summer is possible only if the root system is closed.

In order to protect seedlings from exposure to strong winds, near them (at a distance of 20-30 cm), you can hammer a small rod and tie a trunk to it.

Distance between apple trees when planting

In pursuit of a high yield, many gardeners strive to plant the largest possible number of fruit trees on their site. However, dense placement, as a rule, leads to the following consequences:

Decreased total yield
Deterioration in fruit quality
Fungal infections of leaves and shoots
Stimulation of the pest population

When forming a garden, it is important to strictly adhere to a specific planting pattern, which depends on the characteristics of a particular variety. The maximum dimensions (width and height) that adult plants can reach should be taken into account. The optimal planting pattern for low-growing varieties on a dwarf rootstock is 2.5x4 m. Apple trees grafted on a wild rootstock are recommended to be placed according to the 3.5x5 m pattern. The distance between tall trees should be at least 4.5 m.

Completely different planting schemes are adopted in relation to new species of these trees. (the shape of the crown is similar to poplar, cypress, etc.) can be planted thicker than the usual, classic varieties. Do not require a lot of space and dwarf plantings.

Placing seedlings in a checkerboard pattern will slightly increase their number on the site. However, such a scheme will significantly complicate care (especially when using motorized equipment).

Video about planting an apple tree

Many people today are hesitant to move to the metropolis. The ecological situation in these regions leaves much to be desired. Therefore, many people want to buy a private house with a small plot. The size of the land plot does not always allow you to set up a large garden, but still there is almost always room for several fruit trees.

Truly the queen of all gardens is the apple tree. This tree can be found in almost every garden. Varieties of apple trees are so diverse that each owner will be able to choose the right option for himself. Today, apple trees are dwarf, tall, semi-dwarf, with a spreading crown, wedge-shaped. The ripening period is different, long-term storage of the crop is possible. It is better for summer residents living in Siberia or the Far East to choose zoned crops adapted to the special climate of the region. So you can get a good harvest of juicy, tasty apples.

Place to land

Many are interested in: how to plant an apple tree correctly? After all, there are some recommendations, given which, you can get a good harvest in the future.

First of all, you should choose the right place for planting an apple tree. The place where young plants will be planted must meet the following requirements:

good lighting;
wind protection;
fertile land.

A good sunny location promotes excellent fruiting. Please note that tall trees do not grow nearby. The shadow that they will create adversely affects the development of a young tree, reduces the quantity and quality of fruits.

The site must be well protected from strong winds. However, it must be well ventilated.

Of course, the quality of the crop is also affected by fertile land, enriched with useful substances and trace elements.

Would you like to plant some apple trees? Then it is better to do it in one place. Alternating plantings with other plants is not recommended. So you can achieve good pollination, which means abundant fruiting. In addition, it is easier and more convenient to treat plants from the negative effects of pests and diseases with this placement.

Experts also recommend choosing several different varieties with different ripening periods. For example, on a personal plot it is recommended to plant such a combination of fruit trees: White filling, Cinnamon striped and Lobo, Aport and Gold or Melba.

Soil Features

The soil is an indicator of the future quality of fruiting. Therefore, those who do not know how to plant an apple tree should pay attention to the composition of the soil in the chosen place. The plant is unpretentious in the choice of soil, but it should not be:

waterlogged;
rocky;
crushed stone.

The apple tree is a plant that loves loose soil. It is able to pass moisture and air to the roots of the plant. It is not recommended to plant a plant in places where groundwater runs close. The minimum distance to them should be more than 2 m. Under such conditions, we can say that the apple tree will bear fruit for a long time and abundantly. If groundwater is close, how to plant an apple tree? Experienced gardeners recommend laying a sheet of slate at the bottom of the planting hole. When the root reaches this depth, it will change the trajectory of its growth. In this case, groundwater will not harm the plant, no matter how far away they are.

The ideal soil for the culture we are considering is loamy. How to plant an apple tree in an area where there is a completely different soil composition? It is enough to competently approach To do this, it is necessary to mix the clay soil well with sand or peat. Humus must be added to soil containing a lot of sand. Peat can also be used for this purpose.

When to plant

Transplanting a tree is stressful for the plant. Therefore, it is so important to know how to plant an apple tree correctly. To new conditions, the best adaptation of the plant occurs during the period of cessation of sap flow. This is the time when the plant enters the dormant stage. The growing season ends in September-October. It lasts until the awakening of the kidneys. Therefore, planting seedlings should take place in autumn or spring.

In winter, the trees are in a state of complete rest. But replanting plants during this period is not recommended, because young roots can die if they fall into the cold, frozen ground. Apple trees are transplanted in winter only in certain regions, using technology only for adult plants with a developed root system.

But when and how to plant an apple tree? This question cannot be answered unambiguously. Often it all depends on the characteristics of the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with a warm climate, seedlings are recommended to be planted in mid-autumn. In cooler areas, where there are often sharp drops in temperature at the end of October, seedlings should be planted in the spring.

landing pit

You should not only choose a place for the plant in advance, but also prepare a hole. The place where the seedling will be planted must be prepared a month before planting the crop. During this period, the soil warms up and settles, and the plant can easily adapt.

It is necessary to dig a round hole, folding the earth into 2 piles side by side. It is recommended to pour the earth into special containers or onto the soil, previously covered with plastic wrap. In one pile, it is necessary to put the fertile soil, which is located in the upper layer of the soil. In another, we pour a layer poor in micronutrients. The optimal volume of the pit is 1 m.

The depth of the pit depends on the type of tree chosen and on the degree of development of its root system. The walls must be sheer. For a seedling, it is imperative to create a support. Therefore, in the center of the dug hole, it is necessary to drive in a strong stake with a diameter of 5 cm. It should rise 40 cm above ground level. The stake must first be burned on one side. Then he will not rot in the ground.

Soil preparation

When the pit is ready, the earth extracted from it is cultivated, choosing weed roots and stones.

To properly apple tree, you need to properly lay the soil. Loosen the bottom of the pit, pour fertile soil. After that, a mixture of 1 bucket of humus, 1 kg of mineral fertilizers and 750 g of wood ash is added. The nutrient substrate is mixed and lightly tamped. Pour out the remaining earth, while a small mound should form. A small indentation should be made in it, in which the seedling will be placed. The size of the hole depends directly on the size of the root system of the seedling.

The planting hole can be filled in another way. Compost, peat, rotted manure and humus must be added to the nutrient top layer. The pit is completely filled with this mixture. Be sure to make sure that a mound of earth is formed. From the soil from the bottom of the pit, sides are formed around the landing site. It can also be scattered in the aisle.

How to plant a seedling

It is necessary not only to prepare a place for plants, but also to plant apple tree seedlings correctly. Immediately before the procedure, it is necessary to cut off all the tips of the root system with a pruner. The same should be done with the top of the trunk and branches.

After the seedling is placed in the hole in an upright position. Gently cover the root system with prepared soil. At the same time, make sure that the branches of the root system are directed downwards or located horizontally. Otherwise, incorrect formation of the root system may occur.

It is necessary to fill up the seedling in such a way that the root neck of the apple tree is located 3-5 cm above the ground.

After the soil is well watered. After the soil settles, the soil is added again to the desired level, then watered again. The water compacts the loosened soil. Experienced gardeners do not recommend trampling the ground with their feet, because this can damage the root system.

This sequence of actions guarantees the adaptation of the plant. How to plant an apple tree in autumn or spring, you already know. It is enough to choose the right place, prepare the soil and plant the seedling on time.

When planting a plant in the spring, for some time it is necessary to water the seedling every 2-3 days. If a color develops on it immediately after planting, it must be cut off to allow the tree to become well established.

After planting a seedling in the autumn, it does not need to be watered.

Distance between seedlings

A small plot of land often motivates owners to plant a large number of fruit plants. Many believe that this is an effective way to increase yields. But it's not! The dense placement of trees will cause the following consequences:

deterioration in the quality of the crop;
decrease in yield;
rapid defeat by diseases and pests;
damage to shoots and leaves by a fungus.

Therefore, it is necessary to properly plant seedlings of apple, pear, apricot or any other crop. A specific planting pattern should correspond to the characteristics of the plant. When planning a landing, you should take into account the maximum dimensions of an adult tree. For low-growing varieties, the optimal planting pattern is 2.5 x 4 m, given that the stock was perfect for a dwarf plant.

Apple trees based on a wild plant should be planted according to a 5 x 3.5 m pattern. The distance between tall plants should be more than 4.5 m.

Of course, the features of the future apple tree should be taken into account. Which variety to plant - the owner decides. After all, new, modern columnar and dwarf fruit trees take up a minimum of space, which means they can be planted closer to each other.

young tree care

In the first year of life, a fruit plant must be watered regularly - once a week. At the second watering in the spring, you need to add ammonium nitrate. Keep the soil constantly moist under the seedling until the shoots begin to grow. After the volume of watering is gradually reduced.

If the apple tree settles deeply along with the soil, it is necessary to carefully pull the seedling to the desired height. The plant needs regular inspection for pests or diseases. In the first year of life, they can cause irreparable harm to the tree.

From August, watering the tree stops.

Conclusion

The apple tree is the queen of all gardens. This fruit tree is unpretentious, hardy, allows you to harvest a large crop. A variety of varieties allows you to get fruits both in summer and late autumn. In addition, among the wide variety, you can easily find the variety that suits you.

Almost everyone loves apples. But in any case, getting their harvest on your own is more pleasant than buying a product of unknown quality in a store. It is only necessary to know exactly the basic techniques and points in order to ensure that errors in this matter are excluded.

Description of culture

An apple tree is a tree or shrub from the Rosaceae family, growing profusely both in temperate latitudes and in the subtropics. Plant height can reach 10 m. At the same time, the apple tree is covered with dark gray bark. Its foliage is green, their length reaches 0.1 m, the geometry of the leaf is close to an oblong egg. Apple blossoms are distinguished by their expressive aroma.

Judging by the description, they are characterized by a pink, white or slightly red tone. Flowers gather in umbrella inflorescences, the diameter of each flower can reach 40 mm. The apple tree blooms in the last month of spring, under favorable conditions the tree can even be completely covered with flowers. The size, tone and geometry of the fruits are largely determined by the variety and type. It is customary to separate the fruit and ornamental types of apple trees.

Their height allows you to enter a classification into:

highly developed;
weakly growing;
partially dwarf;
miniature group.

There is a great variety of external crown configurations. It is sprawling and weeping, compressed and in the form of a column. The last type attracts the attention of farmers with its unusualness: there is a main trunk and branches pulling up. The columnar apple tree absorbs a minimum of space in the garden, and its greatest growth is limited to 3 m. But the popularity of such a culture is limited by its susceptibility to freezing: plants beaten by frost, even when they survive, cannot bear fruit.

The so-called domestic apple tree is the collective name of varieties and hybrids grown in gardens. The growing season covers April-November. Berry, it is also a Siberian apple tree, forms a slowly developing tree with a height of 5-10 m. It is characterized by a rounded crown and a high density of foliage. The plant is beautifully flowering, people like it when receiving fruits.

Apples on the Siberian variety of apple trees do not exceed 10 cm in diameter, are painted in yellow or red. The fruits are round in shape, they grow on elongated stalks. Frost resistance is very high, which makes it possible to grow the plant in harsh conditions and use it as a stock in the northern regions of the country. But the plum-leaved apple tree, also known as the “Chinese”, is distinguished not only by its round, but also by its very large crown.

In spring, white or slightly pink flowers begin to form on it, the diameter of which sometimes reaches 30 mm.

The attractiveness of the plant is due to its resistance to:

winter conditions;
dry periods;
many diseases.

"Chinese" suffers little from pruning. Apples on it do not exceed 3 cm, there are fruits with red and yellow peel. But the forest, it is a wild apple tree, stands out for its rapid growth (it can rise up to 15 m). Interestingly, shrubs are occasionally included in this group. On one plant there are either white or pink flowers, they do not grow together. The fruits of wild apple trees are sour, but one of the subspecies, the paradise apple tree, is well suited for grafting onto cultivated dwarf varieties.

The purple hybrid stands out for its charm and reddish leaves. The growth of the tree does not exceed 5 m. Decorative qualities are due to both flowers and fruits. Winter resistance is satisfactory for most regions of Russia.

Nedzvetsky's apple tree will be of interest to those gardeners who want to get a garden that is rapidly developing and is not very susceptible to infections and pest aggression.

Variety selection

Familiarization with the types of apple trees is not enough to make a competent decision. It is also required to correctly assess which variety is needed in a particular area. Until relatively recently, the undisputed leader was "Idared". But even today, when there are both tastier and more practical varieties of apple trees, many summer residents remain committed to it. The taste of fruits is transitional from sour to sweet, there are apples weighing from 0.1 to 0.3 kg; a serious problem is the low resistance to winter.

In terms of keeping quality and transportability, an apple will be an excellent contender for a place in the garden. Berkutovskoe. It is valued on industrial plantations, especially in the southern regions. Winter hardiness is average, but desiccation resistance will please farmers. The sweetness of the fruit and the average growth of the tree itself are noted.

And here is the variety "Bolotovskoye" gives high, up to 10 m, trees, zoned in central Russia. A feature of this variety can be considered an unusual green flesh. Although sour notes are clearly felt in the taste, it can hardly be called unpleasant, since the proportion of acids is small. You can save "Bolotovsky" apples until the end of January.

Of the new varieties, it is worth taking a closer look at such an achievement of breeders of the 21st century as a variety "Venyaminovsky" scab resistant. It is this circumstance that in many ways helps him win more and more space.

"Imrus", or “Russian immunity”, is able to survive even the most evil frosts, is distinguished by medium growth and a sweet and sour taste.

You can list certain varieties for hours, but among them a variety stands out "For a long time", which many connoisseurs even consider the world leader in taste. In addition, this apple tree gives powerful harvests and is not too whimsical. Although the variety belongs to the group "Chinese", it was developed in the USA. The fruits ripen in early autumn and attract attention with a strong aroma. A tree hung with apples looks incomparable even against the background of the most decorative species.

Pollination requires the participation of insects. The apple tree is able to lure them on its own, without the efforts of gardeners. But this will require planting plants separately so that bees and other winged birds do not get lost. Moreover, hiding such beauty behind other plantings is simply stupid. Trees reach a height of 4 m, while relatively small in width. Round wide crown with dark green shoots looks attractive from spring to autumn.

The main mass of branches without bends is directed upwards. When the fruit ripening season comes, it is difficult to see the branches themselves under the layer of apples held by shortened stalks. By itself, the leaf is easily confused with the one growing on the plum. The fruits are covered with a smooth skin and are not too large (average weight - 0.02 kg). There are both spherical apples and "cones".

When is the best time to plant?

It should be noted for a start that the winter planting of apple trees in Russia rarely brings good results. It is much more common to encounter freezing plants. Most gardeners do not start work until mid-April. Planting in the spring, if everything is taken into account and done correctly, allows us to hope for a thorough development of the plant by the coming winter.

As for summer planting, it is only permissible, but it is better to avoid such a practice. Risky gardeners are forced to water seedlings abundantly in the heat, and at the same time it is extremely difficult to observe the line beyond which root rotting begins. If, nevertheless, a decision is made to plant in the summer, it is worth selecting only specially designed varieties. Summer planting is sometimes recommended in Siberia to optimize preparations for winter. But such a measure immediately imposes on gardeners the obligation to think through everything and take into account the course of physiological processes.

The optimal moment for landing comes in the fall, or rather, in September and the first part of October. It was then that the bark of apple trees is completely ready for the cold season.

For your information: autumn planting gives the best result in the south. But even there it is recommended to choose areas saturated with black soil. This is even more important in the middle and northern parts of Russia.

Landing

To properly plant an apple tree, you need to dig holes where there is clay soil. Improving substances are added to these pits - peat, humus or washed river sand. The recess is dug approximately 0.8 m deep, its diameter is from 1 m. At the base, the shells left from the walnuts are laid out. But if it is rather problematic to collect so many shells, then it is much easier to find the required number of unnecessary cans.

Such layers should not be mixed, and their goal is the same - to strengthen the pit.

potassium sulfate;
wood ash;
superphosphate.

A walkthrough in any specialized publication notes that the middle of the pit must be staked. After its introduction, the notch is ½ in height filled with earth. Only after that the seedlings are planted. The trunks of plants rest on stakes installed in advance. It should be noted that it is extremely difficult to do this work alone, so the involvement of a partner is fully justified.

In all instructions, it is noted that the best planting of apple trees occurs against the background of the natural "sleep" of the seedling. This makes it possible to exclude the beginning of the active development of the vegetative system. In the Moscow region, it is customary to plant apple trees in the autumn months. But regardless of the specific moment, Moscow gardeners must take into account that groundwater, even if it is not too high by local standards, is still 1.5 meters below the surface. Possible negative consequences are stopped by preliminary compaction of the lower layers by backfilling the soil.

In most of Russia, buying seedlings at fairs and exhibition sites is irrational. Most of the seed material is brought there from the southern regions; when winter sets in, they quickly freeze out. It is much more practical to go to a nursery in your area.

But even there it is worth being vigilant: it is very good if the seedling is not just shown, but also dug up immediately in the presence of the buyer.

Getting acquainted with the advice of experienced gardeners, it is worth noting the following point: where the land is poor (represented by a mixture of sand and gravel, composed of loam or peat), an increased amount of fertilizer must be added. Regardless of the type of soil, a very important point is the careful selection of the distance between individual trees. It necessarily adapts to the climatic conditions of a particular place, to the size of the garden and the seedlings themselves. Planting of bush dwarf apple trees is carried out with a gap from one row to another of 4.3 m with distances between individual plants of 2.7 m. This scheme is used in small gardens, and in larger areas they use row planting on trellises with gaps of 4.5 and 2.1 m respectively.

Just bush trees are planted according to how many rows are planned to be made. When one line is formed, at least 1 m of free space should remain between the apple trees, and exactly 3 m of empty land separate the rows. Another option involves planting dwarf and semi-dwarf apple trees in the form of "lines" every 2.5 m, while the gaps are filled with other crops. It will be easiest for gardeners who have developed a clear planting plan in advance. But in this case, the greatest allowable convergence between apple trees is 1 m.

Sometimes landing is practiced according to a chess pattern, in which two fragments of the garden parallel to each row are slightly shifted. Such a solution allows you to maximize the full use of the entire available territory. According to professionals, dwarf plants with this method of planting between dwarf apple trees within the same row should remain 1.5 m. For semi-dwarf varieties, this distance increases to 3-3.75 m, and for large plants - up to 5 m. also recommended for palmet rows created on supports, while the row spacing is 4 m, and the distance between individual trees is 2 m.

If it is known in advance that it will be extremely difficult to organize the care of the garden or it will be completely absent for a long time, the chess construction is excluded. It will lead to the accelerated transformation of a pretty site into an ugly chaotic forest.

A single-row system (chain) is practiced:

when forming alleys of fruit trees;
when creating fruit walls near high fences or natural obstacles;
in a small area;
to delimit the cottage space into separate segments.

A closed root complex allows planting plants in any phase of the growing season, but for apple trees under a roof or canopy, immediate planting is detrimental. At least 3-4 days after unloading from the car, they should be left where the sun's rays will touch the foliage for several hours a day. A common mistake is to plant seedlings that previously lived at strictly positive air temperatures in a garden that is still subject to jerks of night and day temperatures. At the initial stage, it is recommended to choose for landing such moments when the sky is shrouded in clouds or when the sun is already low above the horizon, and the shadows are lengthening. And even in this case, it is worth shading the landings.

When the weather is hot, seedlings with an open or closed root system suffer equally. If the heat came suddenly, when the apple tree has already been planted, removing it back into the container is pointless. It is more correct in the early, as well as in the late hours of the day, to spend a few minutes spraying with water. The hole must be kept moist at all times.

Usually, a seedling planted in one way or another develops into a full-fledged tree, which pleases the farmers for the entire set period and showers them with fruits. But sometimes, for some reason, apple trees break. Either the winds cleared up, then what carelessness occurred, and sometimes this happens to plants whose resource is far from being exhausted. You can save the situation if you re-grow an apple tree from a branch.

If it is known in advance that the selected plants are characterized by active growth, it is worth placing them every 6 m. Rows are abandoned in cases where they are able to block the insolation of the entire area or most of it. In addition to the distance between the apple trees themselves, it is necessary to take into account the optimal gaps to other plants. Otherwise, harm is done to all interacting cultures.

pear planted on a weakly growing rootstock - 4-5;
pear growing intensively - 9;
large tree cherry - 6;
bush cherry - 3.5;
plum with a compacted planting from a dwarf or column apple tree - 3.5 (for all other types of apple trees - 4.5);
large-sized plum - 6-8;
currant - 1.25-3 m (depending on the growth of the apple tree);
coniferous trees - 8-12 m (biological species does not matter).

It happens that an apple tree is found in the same garden with birches. For ordinary plant species, a gap of 4-5 m is left, but for seed plants it is doubled. It is allowed to create an apple orchard, in which potatoes and other vegetables are also present, the distance for them is 100-150 cm. When they try to decorate the territory of the site with lilacs, this is always commendable. But for dwarf apple trees, a distance of 4 m is needed, and for large trees, especially if the bush itself is also large, the distance is increased to 6 m.

In a number of gardens, you have to plant an apple tree along with raspberries. With the usual low growth of these crops, the gap is 2-2.5 m, for a remontant shrub variety, a distance of 400 cm from tall trees is required. There is no information about the distance to the barberry in the special literature, because this is the primary enemy of the apple tree, therefore, it is necessary to completely exclude such neighborhood. When organizing a full-fledged rose garden, the gap is made at 5-7 m. And when you just need to set up 1-2 bushes to decorate the place, you can reduce the distance to 4 m.

But on the garden plot there are both various plants and "inanimate" details. When planting apple trees, it is worth considering gaps before them.

In doing so, you need to think about things like:

the threat of collapse of walls, fences with roots;
interference for the repair of pipelines, massive structures;
difficulties in extinguishing fires, eliminating other emergencies;
objective interests of the owners of neighboring land.

So, if you plant tall trees on the site, then at least 4 m from the fence. But for dwarfs, the distance drops to 1 m. In order for the dwelling to be always cozy and safe and so that the roots do not cling to the foundation, weakening it, you need to move low apple trees by 4 m, high ones by all 8 m. But on any city or country The site has not only the main house, but also a small one. The minimum distance in this case is 2 m, and for all containers that are not tight, from 4 to 6 m.

To take care of an apple tree and other plantings, tools and other devices are required that are stored in a barn, a utility workshop. And the safety of such structures is guaranteed by an interval of 1 m for dwarf rocks in the absence of a foundation and 3 m for any plants, if the foundation is organized. Gardeners will make a gross mistake if they decide that this is where all the subtleties of planting end. Strictly observing the prescribed plants, it is important to pay more attention to the peculiarities of cultivating apple trees with a closed root system.

There is nothing supernatural in a closed root complex: if a plant grows in a container or a plastic tank from the first hour of life, it already belongs to this group.

When pulling out a seedling and attaching it to a hole, gardeners do not risk damaging the feeding parts. Unless you try to specifically soak the planting material, of course. But what will have to be abandoned is digging up the plant, because such a step immediately makes all the effort spent meaningless.

But a lot depends on what kind of variety lives in a particular place. The physiology of apple trees is bizarre, agricultural technology can reverse the course of life processes in them only in individual cases. Cuttings from branches throw out only shallowly germinating roots. Therefore, they will have to be planted strictly where other apple trees will not reach. And we must also remember that the growth of roots near the surface increases the risk of exposure to frost and dry summers.

Another point worth mentioning in connection with planting apple trees is how to transplant them. Such manipulation is necessary in a variety of cases. For example, when there is an urgent need to free up space within the crop rotation, and there are no other opportunities to do this. Or when a tree is pinched, it needs more space like air. Responsible gardeners in such an environment firmly forget about their convenience, the main thing for them is to reduce the stress of the transplanted apple tree.

The landing depth at a new location is determined by the general rules. But the recommendations on the time of work are unequivocal, it is best to take it either in the spring, before the dissolution of the kidneys, or when the last leaves fly around.

For your information: the foliage, when an urgent transplant is required, is cut off manually. Then a specific moment within the growing season loses its meaning. As usual, to perform these works, it is recommended to wait for the accumulation of rain clouds in the sky.

Transplanting in spring is definitely preferable to autumn if:

the soil is poor in useful substances;
the cold came too early;
there is no complete confidence in the health of the plant.

When transplanting an apple tree in the fall, you should hurry: it must take root before the onset of cold weather. A new site is chosen in illuminated open spaces and be sure to ensure that interference is excluded. The distances are the same as always. But the landing recess should be 50% larger than the root complex. Excess acidity is corrected by adding slaked lime.

Care

In order for an apple orchard to give only serene happiness and pleasure, it is not enough just to plant apple trees properly. You will have to put in a lot of effort in the future. And yet, it is possible to grow and make any fruit tree bear fruit with “little blood”, if you pay attention to the accumulated experience.

Standard points when caring for apple plantations will be:

maintaining decent land quality;
moisturizing;
cutting off excess and diseased parts;
prevention of frost destruction of branches;
repel attacks of rodents;
weed suppression;
resistance to insects;
suppression of infections.

They begin to take care of a young tree in the first year of cultivation, taking care of its early withdrawal from hibernation. In summer, after flowering, it is time to feed, keeping the plants in good shape. This is the only way to keep the largest number of ovaries. When the shortening of daylight hours is complemented by a decrease in the average daily temperature, they begin to prepare for wintering. There are obvious differences when working on old apple plantings.

"Old age" is not counted by decrepitude; for the convenience of gardeners, this group includes all plants that are already grateful for their previous efforts with fruits.

At this stage, there are three main areas of work:

maintaining the growth of young shoots;
maintaining the regularity of the harvest;
ensuring a decent level of harvested fruits.

Apple trees are allowed to be fed with both organic and mineral fertilizers, microbiological compositions are also recommended. When abundant fruiting occurs, the natural forces of trees are not enough to hold the load. Then the timely and complete preparation of props depends on the farmers. In the event of a break in the branch, without which the normal proportion in the crown will be preserved, a “ring” cut is made with the place cleaned, carefully leveled and painted over. Thick branches, the absence of which will adversely affect the tree, are applied back and try to engraft.

Given the constant danger of winter frosts, before the start of the cold planting season, it is supposed to be saturated with moisture. You should also have time to heal any small wounds at this time, and even more so hollows. Another important aspect is precise cutting.

As for mechanical defects, the requirement is always the same - they must be eliminated as soon as possible. Having accidentally torn off the bark on an apple tree (or seeing that hares did it, for example), responsible gardeners immediately rush to cook and apply garden pitch. This prescription is even more relevant when a serious deformation is noticed, reaching the deeper layers of the tree. Imagine a similar injury on yourself personally, and it will immediately become clear why speed is so important. Microorganisms are extremely tenacious creatures, and if they are given a convenient entrance, it will be immediately used.

To strengthen the immune system, as well as reduce the risk of most disorders, the use of special drinks helps. But as with any kind of potent means, you need to behave carefully and carefully. Active drugs are often given after a meal to reduce their irritant effect. Similarly, mixtures containing nitrogen must be diluted in a significant volume of water. Nothing bad will happen if you do the same with other fertilizers (but without deviating from the instructions).

If the land on the site contains a significant proportion of sand, nitrogen will be valuable. Another thing is black soil. As part of this chemical element, it is already in excess. The more intensive watering (within reason), the more fertilizer can be invested. Rainy weather will also help here. If it is firmly established, farmers can simply spread the desired composition around the trunk and not worry.

While they are spudding other beds, doing some other work, resting after righteous labors, or driving back from their dacha, the rain stream itself will deliver the fertilizer to the goal. But we must also remember about feeding the plant outside the root. Such processing is performed only at those moments when the solar disk is not visible.

Attention: all fertilizers applied to the trunk and leaves must be weakened (dilute). Otherwise, you will have to deal with burns.

The very first time fertilizer is introduced in the spring, as soon as early leaves are found. This is just the moment when nitrogen will have to be injected for the future apple crop. Top dressing is combined with digging and is done strictly along the perimeter of the crown. Even the smallest area should not be left unattended.

40-50 kg of humus;
0.5-0.6 kg of urea;
or 0.03-0.04 kg of a combination of ammonium nitrate with nitroammophos.

When the time of the first leaves has passed and the tree has blossomed, and this moment coincided with dry days, only liquid mixtures are used (diluted with 10 liters of water):

chicken droppings - 1.5-2 kg;
urea - 0.25-0.3 kg;
slurry - 5 kg;
a mixture of 0.1 kg of superphosphate with 0.06 kg of potassium sulfate.

There is also a third period when the apple tree yearns to be nourished. It comes when the flowers have already fallen off and flown around, and the fruits are pouring and ripening. Green top dressing is already recommended here. It is prepared by insisting the green parts of field herbs in water for 20-25 days. In summer, nitrogen alone is not enough; potassium and phosphorus should come to its aid.

Although it is necessary to treat apple trees repeatedly during the hot period, it is worth pausing from 10 to 15 days. Top dressing for the fruit tree should begin in mid-June. The only remedy is urea applied to the leaves. If the first summer month is damp, it is advisable to use root feeding instead of foliar feeding. As the apple tree grows, the saturation of the solution is increased annually.

In July, you need to spray the crown, be sure to take care of a uniform concentration on all parts. Complete nutrition must be provided using some nitrogen. The interval between the introduction of mineral and nitrogen mixtures is 7-14 days.

In autumn, trees without roots should not be fed, because this impairs preparation for winter weather. But feeding through the root with the help of ready-made mixtures in accordance with the instructions is very good. Dwarf apple trees are fed with a 25-30% reduced amount of fertilizer.

The formation of holes that reach a depth of 0.3 m helps to increase the absorption of feed liquids. The problem is that such holes are unacceptable for a column of apple trees of any variety; they are fed dry or by watering near the root.

A small amount of nitrogen leads to pallor and shredding of foliage. It also becomes smaller with a weak intake of boron, but here twisting and yellowing of the sheets are already characteristic. If there is an acute lack of iron, the leaf becomes yellow, and soon colorless, dies off, starting from the edge, new branches develop slowly.

Without calcium, the leaves become whitish and curl from top to bottom. The lack of magnesium creates a "short-term beauty": the leaf will be yellow, red or even purple, and will retain a green tone around the perimeter and on the veins. Copper starvation manifests itself in pallor and the appearance of brown patches on the foliage. Soon it becomes variegated, but this variegation is a harbinger of death.

A lack of phosphorus is recognized by a dull crown, in the color of which you can catch a bronze tint. An additional symptom is redness or the appearance of purple tones in the foliage. But the absence of zinc reveals itself by crushing the leaves, by their wrinkling. In addition to mineral components, competent watering is of great importance for the full development of the culture. It is carried out so that the soil is saturated with water 0.8 m deep.

Three irrigations are carried out consecutively:

against the background of flowering;
in the first days of July (when the fruits are actively ripening);
in October (to prepare the plant for frost).

If the weather is dry, the frequency of watering can be slightly increased, and with heavy rainfall they are reduced. Water for irrigation should not be colder than 18 and hotter than 25 degrees. In the first and second year of life, apple trees are watered with 40-50 liters of water at a time. When fruiting begins, it is required to use already 70-100 liters. The frequency of watering rapidly growing apple trees in the first years of life is 4-5 times per season.

It is required to pour water strictly under the neck of the root. This significantly accelerates its penetration and reduces the wasted consumption for evaporation, for seepage into the depths. In the first two years, watering through the holes is more practical than other methods. But at an older age, it is recommended to use furrows reaching a depth of 0.5-0.6 m. When 48 to 72 hours pass after irrigation, it is worth loosening the soil and mulching.

Working with garden shears also has its own characteristics. Picking up pruners in the spring is worth to form a crown, and the best time for this is March and April (before the leaves from the buds hatch). But in the summer, only the removal of branches that block the main vegetative parts is allowed. You can also remove the processes growing along the body of the main axes.

Harvest and storage

Experienced farmers advise picking fruits only with cotton gloves. A coarser fabric breaks, rips off even the seemingly strong peel.

The second immutable law of apple picking is “what fell is gone” (for stocks). No, an apple that has fallen to the ground can be used, but only in two ways: either wash it and eat it right away, or process it.

It is recommended to leave the stalk on the fruit, it reduces the risk of premature decomposition. Natural wax coating is also useful. Those who seek to erase it are doing great stupidity. They think that hundreds of millions of years of evolution have been wasted, and that without this armor, fruits can lie for a long time. Meanwhile, nature acted much smarter - she created a remedy for drying out.

Fruit picking is recommended when it is dry, ideally in the afternoon. Summer varieties after full ripening are stored very little, they are recommended to be collected in August. The output is harvesting 14-20 days before final maturity. You can store the collected up to 1 month, if you provide a room temperature of 0-3 degrees. The fruits of autumn varieties are harvested at the end of August and in the first days of September, after which they are placed in storage for 2 or 3 weeks for ripening.

Winter apples are removed from the branches in the second month of autumn. Fresh collection of them is characterized by some rigidity and sourness. It will take 2-3 months for the fruits to reach full condition. But it will be possible to put them both on the New Year's and on the April table. Removing apples, they are cooled to 4 degrees and moved to a prepared storage.

The classic storage method is a wooden box, but the weakness of this option is due to its susceptibility to decay. It is allowed to use plastic containers, which should be washed and disinfected in advance. Improving the keeping quality of apples is helped by filling sawdust from hardwood into the tanks. Coniferous sawdust is distinguished by a resinous aroma, which the fruits will also perceive. Straw is bad with a high probability of mold formation.

Selected wood shavings have a moisture limit of 20% (preferably 15%). A good result is the shifting of apples with oak (maple) leaves, peat chips, dried moss. These components are distinguished by antibacterial characteristics.

Most active ripening occurs in large fruits. For bookmarking, it is worth selecting containers with small products. Disinfection is carried out with bleach, after which thorough drying is required. The bottoms of the boxes are covered with clean white paper and sawdust. Sawdust is taken so much that the first tier of fruits is completely covered.

It is recommended to separate the fruits by wrapping in paper. The final layer is also covered with paper and sawdust. The storage containers are sealed. Instead of these materials, cardboard spacers or synthetic substances may be used to separate the layers. Careful separation is especially important when transporting over long distances.

Diseases and pests

No matter how hard gardeners try to provide the trees with everything they need, in order for the efforts made to end up with a tasty, abundant harvest, you will have to deal with infections and pests. Powdery mildew is a disease that readily attacks a variety of crops. It strikes all the vital parts of the trees and begins to manifest itself as a whitish coating.

When the infection gets stronger, it will undermine the tone of the plant. Winter is not terrible for the fungus; when the heat returns, it will be able to continue its work. The fight against the disease, as well as its prevention, should be carried out as soon as possible. Specialized preparations are used in the spring, trying to get ahead of the full deployment of the leaves. At the end of flowering, apple trees are protected by using copper oxychloride and other compounds.

It is necessary to continue to suppress powdery mildew even after removing the apples. Then you will need a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate, diluted with liquid soap.

Scab is a no less serious disease, it deprives the apple tree of leaves and prevents fruit from pouring. Adult and young trees are equally processed in the spring with the help of "Topaz". The recommended proportion is 2 g per 10 liters of water.

The top three among fungal infections of the apple tree is closed by cytosporosis. It attacks single areas on the cortex, which does not make the disease safer. Gradually, the affected areas increase, the bark dries out along with the branches. With an unfavorable development of events, the death of the tree occurs quickly. Again, copper oxychloride preparations come to the rescue of gardeners, which are used at the time of bud swelling and immediately before flowering, as well as after it.

If we move from microscopic enemies to quite visible insects, the main enemy of the owner of an apple orchard will be a green apple aphid. It is present in all regions where there is a forage base for it. Natural biological protection - ladybug. But when it is not there, karbofos helps. From improvised means, a decoction of tobacco mixed with soap will be able to replace it.

It is recommended to clean out all the old bark and not be limited to removing it, but to burn it. It is even better to take it outside the boundaries of the site in a plastic bag, from where the tick cannot crawl out, and send it to the fire immediately.

The apple sucker also has another name - leaf blotch. It is painted in a yellow-green tone and endures even the most ferocious winter without loss of livestock. When the buds swell and blossom, it will become extremely difficult to identify the enemy in the green thicket. Then it remains to fumigate the plants with tobacco smoke or coat them with dissolved karbofos.

Apple moth is another enemy of any apple orchard. She also adapted to the climate of the Russian regions. She settles on the leaves and eats them. The key means of control are chlorophos and zolon. The leaf roller is a worthy competitor to the apple moth in terms of distribution; it bypasses a rare garden with its attention.

Like other insects, the leafworm should be suppressed as early as possible. It is best to treat the plants before she has mastered the fresh foliage. First, apple trees are treated with nitrofen. Then, as soon as the buds open, use chlorophos. The fight against the flower beetle means for the most part its mechanical shaking off from the affected areas; chemical support is provided by chlorophos or karbofos.

How to plant an apple tree, see the next video.

If you have planted an apple tree in your area, it will delight you and your family with tasty and healthy fruits for decades. But planting an apple tree is only the beginning, and to get a bountiful harvest, you must constantly take care of the tree - from the moment the seedling is planted in the ground and throughout the life of the apple tree. Grafting on the trunk of other varieties, periodic pruning of old branches, treatment and prevention of various diseases - this is an incomplete list of necessary operations to obtain a good harvest. But all this will be required when the tree takes root and begins to grow, and for this you need to know how to properly plant an apple tree.

Landing dates

Usually, apple trees are planted in autumn, in October or early November, or early spring. Spring planting of seedlings is recommended for the non-chernozem zone, as well as during cold, dry autumn. In other cases, autumn is the best time to plant an apple tree, as the root system of the tree will be able to adapt to a new place during the winter and will be ready for the growing season. Try to complete the planting of seedlings two to three weeks before the onset of frost, then new roots will have time to form. The most important thing is to choose a seedling that is at rest: in the fall - already without leaves, in the spring - before the buds begin to bloom.

Preparing for landing

Where to plant?

Be careful when choosing a place to plant an apple tree. The area where the apple tree will bring a good harvest should meet the following requirements:

Good illumination and the absence of tall trees growing close. Since planting an apple tree in the shade, you will get a late harvest and a smaller amount.
It is not advisable to plant apple trees interspersed with other fruit trees, if there are several apple trees, they are placed in a separate group.
The place must be protected from strong winds.
For the full formation of fruits requires good pollination. Therefore, it is most effective to plant several trees side by side with different fruiting periods.

The soil must be good permeable to water and air, and the occurrence of groundwater at a depth of about two meters. Swampy and stony soils are categorically not suitable for planting an apple tree. When you planned to plant an apple orchard, the distance between the trees should be at least three meters, and between the rows - about six meters.

A month before planting, it is necessary to prepare a hole for the seedling. Usually a hole is dug with a diameter of 1 meter and a depth of about 0.8 meters. Fold the top, fertile soil layer separately from the bottom layer. Next, you need to take a wooden stake, about 5 cm in diameter and half a meter long above ground level, and drive it into the center of the pit. That part of the stake that will be in the ground is recommended to be burned to protect it from decay.

Prepare soil mixture it’s easy, for this the top fertile layer of the excavated earth is mixed with humus, peat, compost or rotted manure, organic fertilizers are also additionally applied. This mixture is poured into the pit until a small mound (10-15 cm) is formed above ground level. Indeed, over time, the poured mixture will shrink, and an additional layer of soil will not allow a recess to form at the trunk of an apple tree. From the remaining soil, a small mound is formed around the pit.

Here are some more tips for planting a pit for a seedling, depending on the characteristics of the soil:

In soil with a high content of clay, the pit should be made deeper, and a drainage layer of stones or tree trimmings is laid out on its bottom - this will provide the roots of the apple tree with additional nutrition and air supply for a long time.
In the absence of a drainage layer, the pit must be made wider, no more than 40 centimeters deep, so that the formation of the root system does not interfere with excess water from autumn rains.
When the soil is sandy, a layer of clay or silt will be required to retain moisture at the roots.
If groundwater lies close to the surface (less than 1.2-1.4 meters), then the seedlings are planted in mounds from fertile soil about one and a half meters high.
Also, you do not need to dig a deep hole when the groundwater is at a depth of about 1.5 meters. Fertilizers are applied to the dug up soil, and the seedling is planted in a small hole and sprinkled with earth on top. Before strengthening the root system, it is desirable to fix the tree with an additional support.

How to plant an apple tree?

In a prepared hole dig a hole sufficient to accommodate the roots of the seedling. Be sure to add black soil at the bottom of the hole to prevent burns of the roots from the applied fertilizers. Place the tree in the hole so that the root neck of the trunk is 5-6 cm above ground level.

Finding the root neck is easy - in this place the greenish color of the bark changes to light brown. If you close this place with earth, then the apple tree will develop poorly, and the harvests will be small and irregular. But too high an arrangement of the root neck will not be beneficial - when the heat sets in, the tree will experience a lack of moisture due to its strong evaporation from the roots. The planting peg should be located south of the seedling.

The most efficient way to produce planting trees together. The first gardener holds the seedling at the required height, spreading the roots along the ground, and the second one sprinkles fertile soil, gradually covering the roots, gently and carefully tamping it, especially closer to the edges of the pit. To fill the voids between the roots with earth, it is necessary to periodically shake the seedling - this will prevent the root system from drying out.

With the help of a polyethylene hose, a free figure-eight knot, the trunk of an apple tree is tied to a planting peg, this will prevent the tree from settling. 20-25 liters of water are poured into the pit, then the top layer of the earth is mulched with humus. Then it will be necessary to water the seedling at least once a week, till August.

By performing these simple operations in the correct order, you will be able to grow a strong, healthy apple tree that will delight your entire family with tasty and healthy fruits.

An apple tree is one of the most popular trees in a summer cottage or a personal plot. Often, amateur gardeners do not manage with one variety of apple trees, but plant several at once in order to enjoy the harvest for the maximum time. But in order for the apple tree to give a good harvest, it is necessary to follow some rules, including in the time frame for planting seedlings. Let's deal with the time of planting an apple tree.

In principle, you can plant an apple tree at any time, but the most successful periods will be spring and autumn. Each of these periods has its advantages and disadvantages. Consider the autumn and summer planting of apple trees.

Planting in autumn

The main advantage of the autumn planting of an apple tree is that during the winter the seedling "got used", grew into the soil, strengthened the roots, and with the onset of the spring period, the plant will begin to actively grow and develop. If we talk about numbers, then most often the planting of seedlings begins in early October to give the roots enough time to become well established.

Best of all in autumn it is suitable for the southern regions of the country, as well as for areas where the soil is rich in black soil. The soil for the apple tree should be loose and pass water and air well.

It is advisable to start preparing a hole for planting an apple tree at least a month in advance. To do this, you need to make a recess, about a meter in diameter and about 70 cm deep. Do not forget that the top layer of the earth should be laid separately from the rest of the soil, as it is more fertile.
In the center of the hole, you will need to fix the stake, it should protrude about 30-40 cm above the ground. Do not forget to first burn the side of the stake that will be in the ground, this will protect it from decay.
Next, prepare a mixture for the apple tree from the fertile soil layer, compost, humus, manure, peat and organic fertilizer. Fill the hole completely with this nutrient mixture.
Then, at the appointed time (in early October), you can plant an apple seedling in a prepared place. It is necessary to make a small hole, at the bottom of which a little black soil should be poured.
Lower the rhizome into the hole, make sure that the driven peg ends up on the south side of the tree trunk. The seedling should be planted in such a way that the root neck of the trunk rises above the ground at a height of about 5 cm.
to the driven peg, this is done to avoid the precipitation of the tree. Then the hole is filled with water, about 3-4 buckets. Next, the hole is covered with earth.

Planting in the spring

The advantage in the spring is that by the onset of a harsh winter, the trees have already grown strong enough and confidently and easily survive the winter. They begin spring planting of apple trees in early May or at the very end of April, when the earth has just moved away from winter and thawed.

A characteristic feature of the spring planting of an apple tree is abundant and frequent watering at the very beginning, in order to avoid drying out of the roots.

A week before planting seedlings, it is necessary to prepare the ground and make a hole. If the soil is good, then the depth of the pit should not exceed 60 cm. If the soil is not very good, then a hole should be dug at least 70 cm deep. The diameter of the pit should be approximately 60-80 cm, depending on the soil.

Before planting an apple tree in the spring, it is worth thoroughly moistening the roots of the seedlings. To do this, you should leave the apple tree seedlings in a container with ordinary water for a day. Thus, the roots are saturated with moisture, this will help protect them from drying out.

The rest of the preparation and planting of seedlings is carried out similarly to the planting rules described above.

A characteristic feature of the spring planting of an apple tree is abundant watering. A young seedling is well poured with water until the earth stops absorbing all the moisture. And in order to prevent evaporation of the liquid and the appearance of weeds, the soil surface is covered with dry grass and humus.

Landing in summer

Planting an apple tree in the summer is extremely rare, most often it is a forced measure from place to place. In this case, special attention should be paid not only to preparing the soil, but also to watering and increasing the feeding of the seedling.

Planting time and tree age

The time of planting the apple tree also depends on the age of the tree. For example, in the spring it is better to give preference to young plants whose age does not exceed 2 years. For more mature seedlings, autumn is also suitable. And if we talk about completely mature trees, then the time for transplanting them should be chosen in the fall or even in winter, when the tree is in a state of complete rest. In this case, the apple tree will better endure all changes in location and will not die.

Some mistakes when planting apple trees

No matter what the time of planting the apple tree, some blunders should be avoided:

You should not chase after a large seedling size when buying, often large seedlings actually turn out to be bad ones themselves and take root poorly.
You can not plant young seedlings in the ground that is not properly prepared, otherwise you risk simply ruining the plant.
Do not get carried away when preparing a hole for a seedling, you can "burn" the roots of the plant.
Very early planting of seedlings that have an open root system.

Apple trees are very unpretentious in care, easy to plant and resistant to various weather conditions. Thanks to their positive qualities, apple trees have long been established in summer cottages throughout the country, delighting gardeners with their harvest. For the successful cultivation of apple trees on your site, an amateur summer resident will not have to make much effort.

Rules for planting apple trees on video: