Most owners of their own homes choose plastic windows for installation, not only because of their excellent performance, but also because of the ease of installation. This process is simple due to the fact that the design provides for very easy-to-install fasteners and additional parts that are included in the window package. Many are interested in how professional installers install windows. With the most minimal tool skills, any homeowner is able to install such windows.
Of course, as with the installation of any structural element, when installing PVC windows, you will need to observe a number of features and certain actions. It is advisable to perform this kind of work with an assistant, even if they do not have any building skills, some difficulties may arise when leveling the window if you do this work alone. The correct execution of all the nuances of installation will help you to accurately complete the work and save on the labor of employees.
Performing measurements and calculations
Before purchasing windows, you should measure the openings - based on these data, you will make an order to the workshop. When taking measurements, it is necessary to take into account whether they are a quarter or not. For buildings made of foam concrete, openings with a quarter are characteristic, which greatly reduces heat loss. For an opening without a quarter, when ordering fiberglass windows, the length will be 5 cm less than the same parameter for the opening. 3 cm is subtracted from the value determined as the width of the opening. Gaps of 1.5 cm should be provided along the contour - they are necessary in order to carry out foaming. At the bottom, an additional 3.5 cm should be left for mounting the window sill. According to GOST, it is supposed to leave 2 cm around the perimeter.
To make the correct measurements for an opening with a quarter, measurements must be taken at the narrowest point. When ordering windows, 3 cm must be added to the measured width, the length does not change the value.
More often, PVC window structures are not arranged in the middle of the opening, but retreating in depth from the outer plane by approximately 1/3. But if you are going to install the design yourself, the window can be slightly shifted at your discretion. To order ebbs and window sills, these parameters must be taken into account. Add 5 cm to the width indicators that are calculated for the intended location of the windows.
When determining the width of the future window sill, the battery must be taken into account - it should be about half closed by the window sill. Add another 2 cm - the window sill will need to be brought under the base of the window frame. It is necessary to leave a margin along the length - at least 8 cm. But it will be much better if you add 15 cm - this allows you to cut the window sill more beautifully.
In the kit, plastic side plugs are usually attached to the ebbs and window sills. You should not refuse them, although some masters do just that.
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Window frame mounting methods
The technology for installing PVC windows does not depend on how many internal chambers are in the metal-plastic profile, or on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. When developing an installation plan, you will need to take into account the following points: the material from which the walls of the housing are made, and the dimensions of the window plastic structure. Depending on this, the method of fastening and the devices that will be used are determined.
Plastic window frames can be fixed in the opening using the following elements:
- using dowels, mounting anchors, which must be introduced into the walls through special through holes that are made in the profile in advance;
- another option is special toothed plates pressed into the profile, which are not inserted into the wall, but placed “by surprise” and fixed with screws.
The most reliable of them is considered the 1st option. It is more often used in cases where it is necessary to install window systems with considerable dimensions and weight. Window frames with through fastening quite well resist various shock loads that can occur, for example, when operating PVC systems with sashes that open in different positions. Anchors passing through the plastic frames through, allow you to more accurately adjust the structure during installation both vertically and horizontally.
Those who wish to find out the method of correct installation of PVC windows, which are small in size, with blank double-glazed windows, may be interested in fixing the structure using anchor plates. Fasteners will not spoil the appearance of the window - they are closed by slopes.
To install anchor plates in the openings of walls made of brick or concrete, it will be necessary to make recesses. If they are not done, it will be necessary to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.
Sometimes installers try to combine these 2 methods. The anchors are deepened into the walls through the bottom profile, that is, the base of the window structure and the sides of the frame, and the upper part is fixed with plates. If the installation of PVC windows is carried out in a bathhouse built of wood, anchor plates should not be installed - they loosen during operation. In some cases, galvanized self-tapping screws are used instead of anchors.
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The nuances of installing plastic windows in wooden buildings
The installation process will be significantly influenced by the type of material from which the housing is built. For example, for walls made of hollow or solid bricks, foam concrete, the differences will be only in the depth at which the anchors are installed. But openings in walls made of logs or beams will require a special approach. Here it will be necessary to take into account the installation method and choose the right time for this.
Plastic windows can be installed in walls made of wooden building materials only a year after the construction of the house. It is even better to wait 2 years - during this time the shrinkage process will enter the stage in which subsequent operation will be longer and more reliable. For buildings made of glued laminated timber, the shrinkage period lasts the fastest.
Installation of a window should not be carried out immediately into the opening, as is sometimes done in villages.
A plastic window should only be inserted into a wooden box, which will protect the window structure from skewing. The window block itself must be free from any damage, defects, rot are unacceptable. Before starting work, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition.
After the PVC windows are installed in place, the shrinkage of the log house does not end. True, it will not continue so intensively. In order for it not to cause a crushing defeat to plastic structures, it is recommended to leave a gap of 3-7 cm between the upper edge of the frame and the window frame. After the window is put in place, the gap is filled with jute insulation and closed on both sides with platbands.
There are no exact recommendations in the building codes on what materials ebbs and window sills should be installed in wooden houses. As a rule, standard ebbs are installed, which are ordered in one set with the window design. Window sills are both wooden and made of polymers. The bottom profile can be supported on a wooden window sill, i.e. it can be installed before the window is installed.
For those who are going to install windows with their own hands, but do not have much experience in this matter, the following information may be useful. Since wood passes moisture vapor well, the technical qualities of the mounting foam used when installing the window are seriously reduced. So that the foam blown around the perimeter of the structure is not exposed to moisture and does not get wet, along the line on which it is applied, foil polyethylene tape should be applied to the window unit. This nuance is not specified in the regulations, but experienced installers highly recommend not to neglect such equipment when installing a window.
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Standard installation methods for plastic windows
The technology for installing plastic window structures includes such a moment as the use of mounting foam. In addition to providing insulation, it will give additional rigidity to the connection of the opening with the frame. Thus, a layer of polyurethane foam, obtained as a result of its polymerization, simultaneously protects the opening and fixes the structure. So that under the influence of adverse external influences the foam layer would not lose its technical properties, it is better to surround it with additional insulation.
Regarding when exactly to insert PVC windows, the decision is made by the owners of the home. You can also come across such an opinion that it is better to do the installation not in the summer, but in the winter - in this case, all installation flaws will appear immediately and can be corrected very quickly. When choosing mounting foam for work, pay attention to the information on the composition - it should indicate at what temperature you can work with this product. The foam will only cure at the temperature specified in its performance data, so you should not use foam intended for use in extreme cold conditions for summer work, and vice versa.
How to carry out foaming can be found in the instructions that the manufacturer applies to specific products. Usually foaming starts from the bottom, gradually moving up. The movements must be circular. In order to use less expensive material, it is better to blow out the foam in several steps, counting segments of about 25-30 cm.
To shift the dew point, it is better to perform foaming with different densities. In practice, it looks like this: they try to compact the outer layer of foam less than the layer facing inward. Foam should be poured around the perimeter of the window frame as evenly as possible, without gaps and voids.
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How to prepare a window opening for work?
To install PVC windows, preparatory work will be required before work. Before installation, any contamination should be completely removed from the window opening: dust, construction debris, particles of old paint. When performing work on their own, craftsmen should be aware that when installing a new plastic structure in a used wooden window frame, it is better to completely plan the top layer. It is not reliable enough, it is better to remove it completely so as not to disturb the adhesion of the foam to the surface.
If the gap between the opening and the window frame does not exceed 4 cm, they are filled only with foam. With a larger width of the gaps, it is better to fill them partially with other, cheaper materials. It can be pieces of timber, drywall, polystyrene, brick fragments and other construction waste.
The technology for installing plastic windows in a brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. It is important to understand these differences before starting installation work and avoid mistakes.
Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their dimension depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.
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If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove the old frame from the opening. This will require:
- removing sashes from hinges;
- removal of the old;
- dismantling of the window sill and low tide;
- removal of roofing felts and tow, once used to insulate the opening;
- beating old plaster, if necessary, alignment of the geometry of the opening.
For dismantling, you will need a small crowbar. If the frames are massive enough, then to facilitate the scrapping process, you can use a hand saw for wood or an electric jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you need a puncher, to fasten the frame to the anchor - a screwdriver. You will also need a construction knife with replaceable blades, a level, good quality construction guns for foam and sealant.
What materials are needed to install a plastic window?
Installation of plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage, it is necessary to use various consumables:
- mounting wedges;
- professional foam;
- PSUL or acrylic sealant;
- waterproofing tapes;
- anchor plates or bolts.
- cyacrine;
- sealant.
Mounting wedges are needed to level the level, if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Mounting foam- insulating material for filling the installation seam, i.e.
space between wall and window frame. Professional pistol foam must comply with the temperature regime of the season in which the installation of a plastic window is planned.
PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape) is glued around the perimeter of the window frame and expands from the street side of the seam - from the edge of the frame to a quarter. It looks like gray foam. If there are no quarters, a special acrylic sealant will be required.
A waterproofing tape made of membrane material is placed under the ebb for ventilation and protection of the bottom seam from moisture.
Sealant is needed to fill the seams where the window sill adjoins the slopes and the window frame.
How to fix a window in an opening?
The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Mounting window seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications". This state standard prescribes that before you start installing a window in an opening, stick a PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is an independent mounting layer that cannot be covered with plaster, putty, or painted over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its functions.
When inserting the frame into the window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. The deviation of the window frame in the horizontal and vertical plane should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but not more than 3 mm for the entire height of the window.
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The frame is attached to a brick wall according to the following rules:
- from the inner corner of the frame to the first fastener, the vertical distance should not exceed 150-180 mm;
- from the impost to the fastener horizontally, this distance is recommended at 120-180 mm;
- vertical anchors - with a gap of 700 mm for white plastic windows and 600 mm for laminated profiles.
The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.
Assembly seam device
PSUL along the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the assembly seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the installation wedges from under the support profile and fill the voids with foam. For better adhesion, the inner surface of the window opening can be moistened with a spray before foaming.
Before installing the outflow from the outside, a waterproof vapor-permeable tape should be glued. The ebb is screwed to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the tide must be bent to the outer slopes to avoid moisture getting under it.
On the inside of the window along the perimeter (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame) a vapor barrier is glued, which provides an additional sealing layer to the mounting seam and isolates it from moisture. Such a tape is produced in various widths and can be glued both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and under dry (slopes made of expanded polystyrene or plastic). They also produce universal tapes for slopes.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill: a full-butyl tape with a foil layer.
We collect the installed window
The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.
Double-glazed windows are inserted into the deaf, non-opening parts. To fix (fix) the installed double-glazed window, you will need a medium-sized Plexiglas hammer. The glazing beads are cut at an angle of 45° and inserted into the frame along the perimeter of the double-glazed window with some force. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be lightly knocked out with a hammer.
If the installed window unit has opening sashes, it is necessary to hang them on the hinges. It is not difficult to cope with this task, since modern window fittings are very easy to operate.
But putting the sash in place is not enough. You should check its performance and, if necessary, adjust it in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.
To check how accurately the level of the plastic window is, you need to open the sash. If by inertia it does not slam shut or open wider, then the block is installed correctly.
Installing window sills and slopes
The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if a window sill is not installed. The window sill is snapped into place and attached to the support profile.
If voids under the window are found during dismantling, you can fill them with insulation, for example, rolled or tiled, and then install a window sill.
For the final finishing of the opening, you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from expanded polystyrene sandwich panels.
With the latter option, the panels are cut to size in place, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile is screwed to the frame close to the slopes, otherwise called the starting one. A panel is inserted into it. The voids are foaming.
Foam is a sealant made of polyurethane foam, which, due to its properties, takes a certain time to fully expand and harden. Typically 1 to 24 hours.
In places where they adjoin the wall, sandwich panels are closed with a decorative profile, most often of an F-shape.
The junctions of the slopes and the frame to the window sill are sealed with sealant.
Who is responsible for window installation?
Installing a PVC profile window and installing a wooden window are not the same thing. Installing windows in a brick house is associated with certain nuances. It is required to have all the necessary tools at hand, including adjusting keys for window fittings, as well as a supply of fasteners and special mounting tapes.
It is equally important to choose the right mounting foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, so-called liquid plastic can be used. This is a special adhesive-sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.
If you are not sure that you can handle the installation yourself, it is better to enlist the help of specialists.
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Currently, more and more people give their choice in favor of metal-plastic windows. Such double-glazed windows are equipped with ordinary apartments, and country houses, and chic country mansions. And quite often people install new windows with their own hands. Depending on the chosen method of installation and the skills of the installer, the process of installing one window will take from one and a half hours to half a day. The technology for installing windows is extremely simple and straightforward. It does not require the use of any complex tools. The main thing is to adhere to the installation order and comply with all the requirements dictated by the installation technology.
Necessary measurements before ordering plastic windows
Proper installation of new windows requires an accurate measurement of the window opening. In addition, it is important to know the features of installing windows in openings with a quarter. Such window openings are usually found in foam concrete buildings. They help to significantly reduce heat loss. The main difference is that a window with a length of 50 mm less than the length of the opening is installed in the opening without a quarter. 30 mm must be subtracted from the measured width. Leave gaps of 15 mm along the contour of the opening for foaming. In accordance with the current GOSTs, 20 mm must be left around the perimeter. From below, additionally leave 35 mm under the window sill.
If the installation of PVC windows will be carried out in a window opening with a quarter, measure at the narrowest point. When ordering, add 30 mm to the window width. The length does not need to be changed.
As a rule, the window is not installed in the center of the opening, but at a distance of about 1/3 deep from the outer plane. If the installation of PVC windows is done by hand, then the owner can move the structure in any direction convenient for him. Think over the offset in advance and take this parameter into account when ordering a low tide and a window sill.
To the width of the ebb and window sill determined in accordance with the location of the window, add 50 mm each. When calculating the width of the window sill, additionally take into account such an indicator as the location of the battery.
The window sill should cover the radiator halfway. Add 20 mm to insert the product under the base of the PVC window. The margin in length must be at least 80 mm. But it’s better not to save too much and add 150 mm so that in the future you can cut the window sill beautifully without any problems. Together with the ebb and window sill, you will be offered to order side plastic plugs. You don't need to give up on them.
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Which frame mounting method should I choose?
The installation of PVC windows does not depend on the chamber size of the double-glazed window, nor on the number of internal chambers in the profile. The order of installation of the product can change only taking into account the material of the walls and the size of the window. A suitable fastening and installation method for PVC windows is selected in accordance with the listed parameters. To fix the window structure, you can use:
- Dowels or anchors that cut into walls through existing or pre-prepared through holes in the profile.
- toothed plates. They are pressed into profile. They are fastened against the wall and fixed with screws.
Practice shows that the first option is the most reliable. It is most often used when installing heavy and large windows. In the case of through fastening, the window will normally withstand multiple shock loads that inevitably occur when turning and tilting window sashes. In addition, with the help of anchors, the installer gets the opportunity to adjust the horizontal and vertical of the product to be installed as accurately as possible.
Those who install windows with blank double-glazed windows, i.e. without hinged and flaps, more interested in installation using anchor plates. These products are hidden under the slopes, so they will not spoil the appearance. If the walls of the house are made of brick or concrete, then it is recommended to prepare small recesses for the plates. They will eliminate the need to apply a leveling layer before the slope device.
Sometimes both methods are used in combination. Through the lower profile and the side parts of the frame, anchors are deepened into the walls, and plates are used to fix the structure. If the windows are installed in a building made of wood, it is better to refuse the use of plates, because. they loosen after a short time. In this case, galvanized screws are more preferable.
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What you need to know the owner of a wooden house?
The process of installing PVC windows is very dependent on the material of the walls. In the case of brick and foam concrete structures, the differences come down only to the depth of the anchors. With openings from a bar and a log house, everything is a little more complicated.
If the walls of the house are made of wood, you need to remember a number of important rules. Firstly, it is recommended to start installing PVC windows in a wooden house no earlier than a year, and even better 2 years after the completion of the construction of the house. This requirement is dictated by the fact that during this time the material shrinks. Glued laminated timber is characterized by the smallest value and period of shrinkage. Secondly, windows are not installed directly into the opening. The product can only be mounted in a wooden box. It will protect the PVC window from deformation. The block must not have any defects, signs of damage by insects and rot, etc. Before starting any work, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.
After 1-2 years, shrinkage does not stop completely, but is no longer so strong. After the installation of PVC windows and the completion of finishing work, it will also take place. That is why at the top between the box and the opening you need to leave a gap of 30-70 mm. The size of this gap is selected taking into account the type and moisture content of building materials. After installation is completed, this gap must be filled with jute and closed with platbands.
Building codes do not establish any clear recommendations regarding materials for window sills and sills. As a rule, standard ebbs are used, which come with a PVC window. The window sill can be made of wood or polymer. The lower profile can be supported directly on a wooden window sill, i.e. you can, if desired, install this product before installing the window. Or you can not get rid of the old window sill, if it is normally preserved.
Experienced builders give a very useful recommendation, which is not in the regulatory documents, but it will be useful to anyone who decides to install a PVC window on their own. The wood is permeable. If no action is taken in this regard, these evaporations will gradually degrade the properties of the foam. And to prevent the foam from moistening, a polyethylene foam foil tape should be pasted along the line of its application.
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Preparing the opening and window for installation
Before proceeding with further work, prepare the tools for installing PVC windows. You will need the following:
- Screwdriver.
- Foam gun and directly foam.
- Level.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Perforator.
- A set of hex keys.
- Pencil.
- Yardstick.
- Stationery knife.
After you dismantle the old window, carefully clean the opening of paint and debris. If the walls of your house are made of wood, you will have to additionally cut off the top layer if the new window is mounted in a box that has already served for some time. This pre-treatment provides a stronger adhesion of the foam to the top layer.
Builders recommend using foam to fill the gap only if the gap between the opening and the frame does not exceed 40 mm in size. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with foam, drywall and other available materials. For example, in a house made of timber, you can use segments of the same timber.
First you need to remove the sash from the frame. To do this, pull the pin out of the top loop. You can carefully pry it off with a screwdriver or pliers. After that, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. If the window is deaf, you need to remove the double-glazed window from it. First, the longitudinal glazing beads are taken, after them - the transverse ones. Beads are easily removed with a spatula or a wide knife. It is enough to insert an auxiliary tool into the gap and begin to gradually shift it. Be careful not to damage the glass.
If the window is small, you can insert it using mounting plates without having to first remove the double-glazed windows or sashes. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the factory design, then it is better not to do this. Take a sash or double-glazed window and lean the product against the wall at a slight angle, placing it on a flat horizontal surface, previously covered with thick cardboard or some kind of soft material.
In no case do not lay double-glazed windows and sashes flat. It is also forbidden to put them skewed. Even because of the smallest pebble under the base, a crack may appear in the product. Remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. It is better to do it right away, because. in the future, this process will require much more effort.
Mark the places for installing fasteners. Builders recommend installing fasteners in increments of 40 cm. In accordance with the current state standards, the step should not exceed 70 cm. The standard indents from the impost and corners are 15 cm. If you install a PVC window using plates, attach them to the frame in advance. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Prepare holes for long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts. Use a metal drill for this. Drill from the outside of the frame.
Most instructions indicate that before starting installation, you need to fix it with PSUL protective tape. However, practice shows that it is quite inconvenient to glue it before installation. Therefore, you can do this after the installation is completed, nothing terrible will happen because of this.
If you or your friends have previously used the services of companies for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be ordinary and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first (for more details about the standards, see GOST 30971-02).
Consists of several stages.
Note! When manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If the windows are installed incorrectly, they will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.
However, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.
Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST
Stage 1. Measurements
In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.
Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ of a brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.
If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be closed with special flashings. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.
- First, the width of the opening (the distance between the slopes) is determined. It is recommended to remove the plaster so that the result is more accurate.
- Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope from above and the window sill).
Note! Measurements must be repeated several times and take the smallest result.
To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the profile height for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.
The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.
To determine the width of the outflow, 5 cm should be added to the already existing outflow for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).
The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the received figure. With regards to departure, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.
Note! measured after installation.
Stage 2. Order
After measurements, the finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, all the necessary fittings will be selected there. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:
In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached entirely. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, then it can be damaged due to its large weight.
Prices for a popular line of windows
Stage 3. Preparation
This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is vacated, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).
Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly tucked in with a staple and pulled out. First of all, vertical glazing beads are removed, then horizontal. They are necessarily numbered, otherwise gaps form after installation.
Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is slightly opened and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.
Note! Imposts are special lintels intended for dividing sashes.
Then you need to make markings for the anchors and make holes on it - two from the bottom / top and three from each side. This will require anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.
If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed on the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces each).
Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it must be filled the day before installation. So the element will not freeze through.
Stage 4. Dismantling work
This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be pulled out along with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawn.
Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.
Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is cleaned off.
Step 4 Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.
Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Mounting foam must be frost-resistant.
Stage 5. Installing a plastic window
Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (it will be easier to align the structure), only after that it is fixed to the wall. Substrates can be left - they will serve as additional fasteners.
Step 2. The absence of a stand profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.
The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.
Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. It is characteristic that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, therefore it is better to use.
Step 4. If the window is straight, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled through pre-prepared holes in the structure with a puncher (about 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.
Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the design will “skew”.
Prices for mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns
Mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns
Stage 6. Drainage
Outside, an ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.
The edges of the tide are recessed into the walls for several centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.
Note! Before installation, the lower slot is also sealed.
Stage 7. Assembly of the window
After fixing the anchors, the double-glazed window is inserted back.
Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).
Step 2. The flaps open, the tightness of their fit is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is level.
Step 3. A mounting seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass from fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.
Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead”. If everything is done correctly, after drying, the foam will come out a few centimeters.
Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.
Stage 8. Installation of the window sill
Step 1. The window sill is cut in such a way that it enters the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic
Step 2 Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.
Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows
conclusions
Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already “grab”).
The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are some nuances there too - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.
Find out how to do it right from our new article.
Hello. Today we will talk about fasteners for windows. Personally, I prefer a frame dowel with a diameter of 10 mm. Why? Let's learn more about how to fix plastic windows.
The choice of fasteners for windows primarily depends on the material of the wall into which you will mount your window:
- Brick
- Wood
- Aerated concrete, foam concrete, cinder block
- Concrete
Secondly, on the type of construction and installation specifications:
- Loggias
- Entrance doors
- stained glass
How to fix plastic windows. Types of fasteners.
1. Anchor or frame dowel. It happens with a diameter of 8 mm, but practice shows that the optimal diameter of the frame dowel is 10 mm. In my opinion, the most reliable and convenient fasteners for windows.
It has different lengths: 72 mm, 92 mm, 112 mm, 132 mm, 152 mm, 182 mm, 202 mm. Used like this:
- A hole is drilled in the window frame with a metal drill with a diameter of 10 mm.
- Then, a hole in the concrete is drilled with a hammer drill, right through the frame.
- Next, a frame dowel is inserted and hammered into concrete until it rests against the frame. Then the screw is tightened. There is an opinion that the dowel should be recessed inside the profile. I consider it optional. Because, as for the dowel cap, there is even a special decorative cap. And the fastening strength in both cases is almost the same.
2. Anchor plate. For each type of window profile, especially the popular one, a certain type of anchor plates is produced. But since, according to the technology, the plates need to be screwed to the window frame, any plates for windows can be used (only for the sake of economy, of course).
By the way, about screwing the plates into the frame. There are so-called crab plates. That is, they cut or snap into the profile. So, if there is a quarter in the opening, many installers do not screw such plates. The window will not fall out, and this is the most important thing. After all, a quarter holds a window.
It must be said that there are cases (at present less often) when window installers, grossly violating the installation technology, do not use fasteners at all. Just fix the window with wedges and fill it with mounting foam.
I hope that such cases will pass you by.
3. Wood screws. Used to fasten windows to wood. The cheapest fasteners, and this is probably the only plus.
4. Concrete screw. Used in my opinion only in Europe. I went to a professional store "" in St. Petersburg, where you can buy a lot of things, talked with the sellers. They don't have those screws.
How to fix plastic windows in a brick?
Brick is a good building material. But fixing plastic windows into bricks is sometimes problematic. What is the actual difficulty?
If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but in place. This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. So, of course, no one does (I, by the way, too). It's a waste of time after all.
Frame dowel, it is advisable to choose the longest possible length (minimum brick entry 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.
Apply anchor plates into a brick, you can, if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even a solid brick is of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to fix a plate into it.
How to fix plastic windows in a tree?
An ideal option for fixing windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber, only plates.
From my bitter experience I will tell you how I fixed the windows with screws into the upper part of the box in a house made of timber. And there was casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the beam began to sit down, and these screws, together with the beam, went straight into the double-glazed windows.
As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got into money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases, and only in the side parts of the window frame.
By the way, even when building frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moving, the screws break, and the nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.
Anchor plates for wooden houses are good for the following reasons:
- Quick installation
- Compensates for thermal expansion
- Do not affect window structures during shrinkage
How to fix plastic windows in aerated concrete?
The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.
But it's more correct fix plastic windows on anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more difficult. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bit in your arsenal.
How to fix plastic windows in concrete?
If we have in mind good quality concrete, from which, for example, jumpers are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is difficult, but possible.
In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But panel and block houses are just more efficient to mount on a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.
At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of construction. So I want to talk about such a type as the glazing of loggias and balconies.
As a rule, window fasteners hit the very edge of the upper concrete slab or the edge of the brick bottom and side walls. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall on a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.
Anchor plates, this is a great way out of the situation.
And finally, I would like to say about the big plus of anchors, which is at the same time a minus for anchor plates.
When the window frame is attached to the anchor, at the time of drilling, you set only one vertical plane to the level. And adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.
During fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only after that make holes with a puncher. This requires a certain skill and skill.
