We warm the floors in a wooden house. Types of floor insulation technologies from below in a wooden house using different heaters. How to properly insulate with your own hands. A variety of modern heaters

The temperature comfort in the house, first of all, begins to be perceived by the body through the legs. Therefore, the condition of floor coverings and their foundations is given considerable attention. After all, they, especially on the first floors, are among the coldest structures in residential buildings. This is due to coldness and dampness coming from the ground, as well as convection currents of cooling air inside the premises, descending from the ceiling to the floor. Not surprisingly, for houses with wooden floors without a basement or basement, heat loss through and floor structures can be up to 30% of the total. A logical question arises, how to insulate a wooden floor in order to minimize such negative indicators, thus increasing the comfort in the premises?

Design features of insulated wooden floors

In most cases, a wooden floor from a board is mounted on logs. There are two main ways to create such structures: on the ground or on the foundation with the arrangement of the subfloor. The first option is cheaper and preferable for small technical facilities or temporary residence buildings. These can be sheds, workshops, saunas, cottages, etc. In them, bulk materials are more often used for floor insulation: expanded clay, perlite, polystyrene foam balls, ecowool, tyrsa, straw, derivatives or woodworking waste (sawdust, shavings, wood pellets).

In the second variant, supporting columns or strips of bricks (concrete, rolled steel, foam concrete blocks with an average density of at least 400-600 kg / m 3) on a previously prepared sand cushion can act as a base. Insulation for the floor in a wooden house is placed at some distance from the ground surface, forming a ventilated space (subfloor) to remove moisture. In this case, it is more convenient to install a heat-insulating barrier by laying slab (expanded polystyrene, wood concrete blocks, mineral wool) or rolled (felt, penofol, mineral wool) target materials, however, the use of bulk materials is not excluded.

Stages of installing a floor with bulk insulation on the ground

It is allowed to use this method only with a low occurrence of groundwater at the stage of erection of a temporary residence structure. The sequence of installation stages of floor insulation will be as follows:

1. At the marked construction site, the fertile soil layer is completely removed to a depth of at least 30 cm - the main depths of the roots of the grass cover, exceeding two or three times the height of the timber (10-15 cm), usually chosen as lags.
2. The bottom of the excavation is carefully compacted.
3. The resulting 10 cm pit is filled with coarse-grained mineral material. Suitable: crushed stone, gravel, large construction debris, broken bricks, etc. Ideally, it is recommended to use crushed stone or gravel with bituminous impregnation.
4. A pillow of coarse aggregate is rammed, and fine aggregate (10 cm) is poured on top: river or expanded clay sand, fine slag. Arrangement of a layer of greasy clay is also suitable - it will simultaneously serve as additional waterproofing for warming the wooden floor from below.
5. Logs are lowered onto the ground base. Their wood must be carefully treated with an antiseptic in 2-3 passes. Factory-made target formulations, used engine oil or ozocerite are suitable. For maximum protection against accidental moisture from below, the beam can be wrapped with roofing material, taking care of the hydroprotection of its ends, and lay a couple of layers of plastic film under the entire structure.
6. The space between the lags is filled with backfill for floor insulation.
7. Semi-rough or boards are laid on a timber frame.

If the GWL (groundwater level) is close, then, at a minimum, it is necessary to lay a high base. Then the prepared base is equipped with bulk compacted soil, with which the basement tape is filled to its upper cut.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor on logs with an underfloor

Buildings and structures designed for continuous operation in the winter require more thorough floor insulation. At the same time, quite often used for thermal insulation purposes:

• mineral wool,
• waste wood insulation
• ecowool,

must be protected from moisture. It cannot be placed directly on the ground surface, even using polymer roll waterproofing. In addition to the capillary suction of water from below due to the temperature difference, condensate can accumulate in it. Moisture drops, retained in the microchannels or pores of the heat-shielding layer, significantly reduce its effectiveness.

Therefore, at a high GWL, it is recommended to raise the frame structure, including the insulation for the floor on the logs, above the ground by equipping a ventilated subfloor. The frame can be supported by any sufficiently strong pillars with a height of at least 30-50 cm from non-rotting materials, as well as from wood impregnated with antiseptics and hydrophobes.

To reduce humidity in the underground space, it is advisable to cover the soil surface with plastic wrap. The panels are laid in an overlap of 10-15 cm, with sealing with a wide adhesive tape at the seams. If the supports are monolithic blocks of porous concrete, then it is recommended to install them directly on the film. On the heads of pillars of all types, gaskets are laid under the logs from 2-3 layers of roofing material with bituminous impregnation.

In addition to waterproofing on the ground, it is necessary to equip a barrier of breathable waterproofing (membrane) in the lower part of the wooden floor insulation frame. Vapor-permeable material is laid in such a way as not to prevent moisture from escaping from bulk or fibrous thermal insulation. The underground space receives 2 layers of protection at different levels, not only from moisture, but also the migration of soil radon gas into the living space is reduced.

Important! The ventilated subfloor space must have a sufficient number of vents (vents) with adjustable gaps. The holes are closed with a thin metal mesh or grate, which makes it difficult for rodents to enter the underground.

If you plan to use a hermetic insulation for a wooden floor - slab polystyrene foam of medium or high density, foil thermal insulation based on foamed polymers (isolon, penofol), then there is no need for a breathable membrane barrier.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation along the logs: a sequence of processes

Base making:

• for the base under the supports, it is necessary to choose soil 30-50 cm deep, and in terms of width 10-15 cm more than the column. Fill the hole with sand and gravel mixture and tamp;
• install supports on the formed pillows. Their step is taken no more than 2 m along the span (along the log);
• the heads of the pillars should be aligned in a horizontal plane, using blotches from a cement-sand mortar. If the thickness of the solution exceeds 3 cm, then it is better to reinforce it with a metal mesh, for example, masonry;
• on top of the hardened blotches, lay sheets of waterproofing (2-5 cm wider than the posts), on which the logs are already mounted. The step between the lags depends on the rigidity of the entire structure: the material used for floor insulation, the thickness of the lag, the type of finish coating, as well as operational loads. For typical floor structures in residential buildings, logs with a cross section of 100-150 * 50 mm are usually used. Moreover, it is advisable to install them in increments of 600 mm, which corresponds to the width of the mineral wool boards. With this arrangement, floor insulation with mineral wool is noticeably simplified, and the amount of its trimming is reduced.

Thermal insulation and flooring:

• if you decide to use slab or rolled heat-insulating materials, then for their installation it is enough to fix the metal mesh along the lower plane of the log. If you have chosen a loose heat insulator, then you will have to assemble the lower draft floor to support it. OSB boards, substandard boards, plywood scraps, etc. are suitable for it. The draft flooring is mounted directly to the lower plane of the log or to their side surface through the cranial bar;
• floor insulation on logs must be reliably protected from above from the effects of both dripping liquid and moist air. Therefore, lay a hydro-vapor barrier film on top of it. For each subsequent strip, ensure an overlap on the previous one by at least 10-15 cm. Glue the seams with adhesive tape intended for such work;
• now, in principle, you can start picking up flooring boards by nailing them or screwing them to the logs with self-tapping screws. However, for the preservation of wood, it is better to provide a ventilation gap of at least 30 mm under the top deck. The bars of the appropriate thickness stuffed on them will help to raise the covering boards above the logs.

What is the best way to insulate a wooden floor?

1. Sawdust, wood chips, shavings, wood waste and thermal insulation based on them

Insulating the floor with sawdust in a wooden house is economical and also quite effective. The main advantages of this method are the affordable cost of the material, ease of use, and environmental friendliness. Nevertheless, sawdust in its pure form is quite dusty and is a favorable habitat for various unwanted small animals. Therefore, it may be better to equip the subfloor insulation from building materials made using woodworking waste. Such products include:

• thermal insulation panels. They are blocks 20-50 cm thick, consisting of sawdust, cement and copper sulfate. An effective material with high resistance to biological damage. It is widely used not only for floor insulation, but also for thermal insulation of the walls of structures built in a frame way;
• pallets/granules/pellets made from sawdust and carboxymethyl cellulose glue. Various antiseptics and flame retardants are also added to the feedstock. Thanks to modifiers, a good thermal insulation of a wooden floor is obtained from the material, which has a high resistance to combustion and biological damage;
• sawdust concrete, for the production of which, in addition to sawdust, mainly coniferous wood, sand is used as a fine filler, and Portland cement is used as a binder. The finished product is molded in the form of blocks or plates;
• wood concrete - the closest analogue of sawdust concrete. In it, the role of the filler is played by wood chips. The feedstock is also subjected to targeted chemical treatment by introducing hydrophobic modifiers into it. In addition, the material can be installed both on sound insulation and on the insulation of wooden floors.

2. Mineral wool for floor insulation

It is one of the most common and effective materials. Mineral wool based on slag, basalt and glass fibers is suitable for thermal protection purposes. All of them are non-combustible materials, have low thermal conductivity coefficients, high chemical and biological resistance. However, since slag wool is the most hygroscopic, shrinks significantly, is too brittle, and generates a lot of dust during installation, it is better to refrain from using it.

Low mechanical strength, which is considered a disadvantage of many types of mineral wool, is not of key importance, since the fibrous material will be enclosed in a rigid structure of logs and boardwalk.

Insulation of the floor with mineral wool in a wooden house can be done both with mats and rolls. It is recommended to use their two-layer placement with offset joints, and also to choose basalt wool with moisture-resistant impregnations.

3. Insulation of the wooden floor with foam

Expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) is the second most popular material for insulating floors and floors. It has significant biological and chemical resistance, low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability. And unlike fibrous and many bulk building materials, it is not even afraid of direct contact with liquid, therefore it can do without creating a waterproofing carpet between the insulation and the room.

Its disadvantages include: high flammability, some release of carcinogens (decomposition products of the styrene group). Styrofoam insulation of a wooden floor can also be enjoyed by rodents, while at the same time not too favoring glass wool.

Varieties of expanded polystyrene

In addition to the usual slab foam, it can be used in bulk from loose balls. This form of it is convenient both for independent use and in combination with plates for insulating narrow niches.

In structures without lag (in the presence of a rigid, even base), it is possible to install extruded polystyrene foam. It has sufficient strength to withstand laying a semi-rough or finished floor from boards directly onto its surface.

4. Ecowool

Refers to heat-insulating materials from recycled products. Consists of waste paper (80%) and modifying additives mainly on a natural basis (20%). In other words, ecowool is a homogeneous mixture of cellulose fibers, an organic binder (lignin), an antiseptic and a fire retardant (boric acid). Insulation of floors from boards based on it is positioned as environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. It has a low thermal conductivity, and after wetting and subsequent drying, the original properties are completely restored.

The laying of insulation on the floor can be carried out both independently manually and with the help of special injection units with the involvement of third-party specialists. Special equipment also allows you to blow ecowool into the space between the joists even after installing the final floor covering.

5. Foil thermal insulation based on foamed polyethylene (isolon, penofol)

The use of such modern heat-insulating materials makes it possible to insulate the floor in a wooden house with almost complete preservation of the infrared component of thermal energy indoors (up to 98%).

At the same time, the insulation of a wooden floor with penofol or isolon is also its waterproofing. The laying of the material is carried out end-to-end with sealing of the junctions with a special aluminum adhesive tape.

Important! A distance of 10-20 mm must be maintained between the reflective layer and the inner surface of the floor covering.

6. Spray foam

Polyurethane foam has a cellular structure that resembles very dense extruded foam. It is one of the most effective means of thermal insulation due to its extremely low thermal conductivity. Resistant to biological damage, acids and alkalis. It has low moisture absorption rates, does not need an additional vapor or waterproofing carpet. It is applied by spraying with the help of special equipment.

conclusions

Insulation of wooden floors can be done on your own, using various heat-insulating materials and technologies. The costs incurred will pay off in a few years thanks to energy savings. In addition, building structures, due to the absence of temperature fluctuations and the formation of condensate, will receive a longer period of operation.

P Before you think about how to insulate a wooden floor in a house, you need to decide exactly what problems you intend to solve with this, and at the same time think about what problems may arise as a result of this. Otherwise wooden floor insulation in the house can be not only unnecessary, but also harmful. Especially if the problem is solved floor insulation in a wooden house.

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The device and features of the operation of a wooden floor

To better understand what you have to deal with, let's look at the device of a wooden floor.

The basis for it is wooden bars, the so-called "logs" (these floors are sometimes called ""). Milled boards are stuffed onto the logs in a special way, forming a finishing coating, or the so-called “rough” floor from unplaned, or even uncut boards, artificial materials (plywood, chipboard, OSB). The draft floor serves as the basis for, and similar coatings.

An important factor in the normal operation of wooden floors is the correct ventilation of the floor from below, that is, under the board covering and between the joists (ventilation of the space under the floor covering). If ventilation is insufficient, over time, due to high humidity, the tree is affected by the fungus, and the resulting microclimate contributes to the appearance of various insects, including woodworms.

For good air circulation on the floor boards, from below, they even arrange special gutters (see Fig. 1).

Places where you need to do the insulation of a wooden floor

Experience in the operation of buildings says that for effective thermal insulation, it is necessary first of all to protect the place where the floors adjoin the outer walls.

If we are talking about floor insulation in an apartment building, often the entire surface requires insulation. For example, below there is an unheated basement, the temperature in which, although in winter, is maintained above zero (otherwise the sewerage and water supply would freeze), but lower than in the apartment. And even a difference of five degrees is already noticeable heat loss.

How to insulate a wooden floor exactly where it is needed will be prompted by observations, design standards and ordinary common sense.

As for how to insulate the floor in a wooden house, it’s more difficult. A wooden house can be chopped and frame, from a bar, log. Lined and not lined. All of these options are subject to change. Therefore, in the article we will try to give general principles, and in each specific case, on their basis, you need to think about what and how to do right here and now.

The insulation is poured or laid between the lags, and between the top of the insulation and the lower plane of the coating there must be at least 4-5 centimeters of a gap for normal ventilation of the subfloor.

Before laying the insulation, it is necessary to lay an insulating carpet that cuts off vaporous or liquid (osmotic) moisture (if the base is soil). When using mineral wool insulation, a hydrobarrier is additionally made from above. That is, a warm “pie” is created, into which it is difficult for moisture to penetrate, but from where it easily evaporates through a vapor-permeable waterproofing.

If foam plastics are used for insulation, steam and waterproofing is not done, and the seams between the individual plates, between the insulation and the logs (walls) are filled with mounting foam.

When insulating the floors of the first floor, when there is soil or a warm basement ceiling below, it is enough to lay the thermal insulation at the junction of the floor and external walls, making a belt 80-100 centimeters wide. The task of the belt is not to insulate the wall, but to insulate from the side of the soil that freezes in winter (see Fig. 2).

Tooling for floor insulation in a wooden house (wooden floor)

Warming a wooden floor in a house does not require a significant set of tools. Cutting foam insulation and films of vapor and waterproofing is carried out with a mounting knife and ordinary scissors. When working with mineral wool, a knife is also used (rigid and semi-rigid plates), large scissors (soft roll insulation).

Of course, if an already assembled structure is insulated, carpentry tools are required for. However, this has a rather indirect relation to the issue of insulation.

Conclusion on the insulation of a wooden floor

So, we have considered how to insulate a wooden floor. As already mentioned, the question of the need for insulation arises in two cases:

New construction;
imperfections of the existing floor.

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There are several floor systems for a wooden house, both typical and quite specific. Today we will analyze the most popular of them in terms of the most profitable way of warming. Let's talk about materials, cake and carrier system.

Classic floor plan

Initially, the floors in wooden houses were bulk, which did not have a very good effect on the life of the residents and the efficiency of cleaning. Therefore, they began to deepen the floor inside the house and prepare a dense incompressible bedding. Logs or sleepers were laid on top of it with a half-wood cut and a staggered dressing pattern, and a plank shield of the main covering was already laid on top, which was then leveled, along the way filling up the cracks.

Such a floor, with all the simplicity of its device, has one drawback: it is cold and, in terms of heat saving, is slightly better than open ground. Therefore, more and more often a system of transverse lathing or undermining under beams began to be arranged for free air circulation. The floor did not adjoin the walls and the stove closely, due to which room air circulated under it, equalizing the temperature difference between the wood and the soil to an average value of 15-20 ºС.

Unfortunately, this approach works only with the abundance and availability of fuel. Modern fireplace and radiator heating systems, designed to save energy, do not provide proper heating. In addition, the floor level in the house was below ground level, which caused trouble during the floods, and the need for free circulation near the walls did not allow the junction to be closed with a plinth.

Yet such primitive systems provided the basis for two typical wood flooring techniques that find their way into most building projects. Their main difference is the use of highly efficient insulation techniques, which would be impossible without a well-thought-out carrier system that allows you to correctly place and fix the heat-insulating material without losing the height of the premises.

Floor with subfloor on piles

It is possible to slow down the transfer of heat from the wooden flooring to the ground by increasing the air gap and covering the ground with even a small layer of material that does not transfer heat well.

The floor in this case is arranged in the same way as floating on a continuous backfill, but at the same time, a rigid support is installed under each intersection of the lag. In modern construction, the implementation of such a system is undertaken by piles: screw or made using TISE technology.

At the same time, the ground in the building is significantly underestimated, which is quite normal for an old, well-established log house without a foundation with logs in girth. In a more modern MZLF, exposing one face of the foundation is unacceptable - twisting and lateral loads arise, for which working reinforcement is almost never provided. Therefore, the floor log system is installed in two levels: the first with bars in the spacer inside the tape, and the second with boards on the edge, over the tape and the log.

If it is not planned to warm up the subfloor by circulating room air, the top row of logs is covered with synthetic burlap, supported by planks stuffed on the bottom row. Insulation, including loose insulation, can be placed in the cells of the floor lag. If necessary, to increase its thickness, a counter-lattice is stuffed.

To reduce the volume of removed soil and support the foundation, a dump meter wide and 40-50 cm high is left under it, but not closer than 20 cm to the back surface of the boards. As a heat-cutting fill, either expanded clay or perlite mixed with lime, or more natural materials can be used. For example, reeds, straw or moss, dried and sprinkled with dry sand, then laid on a layer of waterproofing.

Floor frame system

When constructing a wooden house on a pile-grillage foundation, the option with an underground disappears by itself. It requires a system that is able to securely lock the heat inside and allow the use of underfloor heating even under the influence of natural convection.

The problem is solved by installing a crown of logs on the foundation, knocked down like a frame for a floating floor: with a hem and a run. These logs play the role of a second grillage, but they have a smaller cell - about 100-120 cm versus 4-5 meters for concrete beams under load-bearing walls. When laying logs on top of the grillage, they are separated by several layers of waterproofing and a windproof membrane with good vapor permeability is stretched.

The next task is to knock the wind protection with slats to the bottom surface of the log. Although you can get to the lags through the ventilation gap under the grillage, working in cramped conditions and in poor lighting is another challenge. Do not fasten the planks with self-tapping screws, they will wind the wind protection around themselves. Instead, take a 10 mm shingle and small ruff nails.

The floor insulation has the same thickness as the logs of the wooden grillage. Mineral filler with a low density is usually used here; in the classic version, these are several layers of rolled wool. To support heavier materials, the cell can be upholstered from the inside with a polymer mesh or wired around press washers.

1 - strips of filing wind protection; 2 - logs; 3 - wind protection; 4 - mineral insulation; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - sandwich panel

With a thickness of beams from 120 mm, after laying the insulation, they can be covered with a vapor barrier, and then the floor can be laid with sandwich panels with a mineral or polymer core. In the floor system, logs from boards on the edge can also be provided if the thickness of the insulation is not enough according to the results of the heat calculation.

Floor in bathrooms

The biggest problem in a wooden house is the need to cast a preparatory screed. And if for floor heating the accumulating screed is cast after the installation of a compensation layer over the subfloor with total waterproofing, then how to underestimate the floor in the bathroom by the required 50 mm?

It is impossible to do without intervention in the floor system. In frame houses, the bathroom is arranged in a separate grillage cell, but it is cast deaf, possibly with transverse ribs. The depth of the cell should be sufficient for laying the required amount of synthetic insulation, wiring the drain system and, at least partially, rough plumbing.

Then the classic scheme of a frame floor with a screed operates: logs and flooring or SIP, waterproofing, pouring a cement-sand mixture or expanded clay concrete with lightweight reinforcement. A separate plus of such a system is the ability to easily arrange a common drain for the floor.

1 - cranial bar; 2 - boardwalk; 3 - lag; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - insulation; 6 - OSB flooring; 7 - waterproofing; 8 - reinforced screed

In houses on a strip foundation, the same principle. If the walls of the bathroom are capital, at least a tape is poured under them, separating the insulated screed in the bathroom from the main floor system. If we are talking about prefabricated partitions, they are built on the subfloor, the end is closed with a board and again an insulated screed is poured over the ground.

The difference in the use of heaters

Since mineral and polymer foam insulation are now being promoted by manufacturers equally diligently, the specifics of working with them are modestly silent. The key criteria for choosing a material for insulation are resistance to heat transfer, resistance to wetting, fire hazard and the likelihood of pests settling under the floor.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam provide benefits in terms of durability and insulation efficiency. They can harmlessly take over the dew point, even when sealed in a cake. The only negative is the price: insulation will cost about a third more, and the more affordable PSB is toxic when heated and requires protection from rodents.

Mineral insulation is very sensitive to moisture saturation. If they are operated at the border of two temperatures, then from the side of the room they must be insulated with a vapor barrier and limit the circulation of street air through the wool.

When choosing how to insulate a wooden floor in a private house, they proceed, first of all, from financial possibilities. So, expanded polystyrene is the most economical option, expanded clay is more expensive, but the most environmentally friendly, and mineral wool is easy to install and unattractive to rodents.

Warm basement - a guarantee of a warm floor

Before proceeding with floor insulation, you need to make sure that the basement is thermally and waterproofed. At the same time, one should not forget about ventilation, which will prevent the development of fungi and mold in the underground. After all, this destroys the wooden base and the floor will last very little.

Basement floor insulation

If the house has a basement or basement, you need to take care of their insulation and waterproofing. This will keep the basement from freezing in the winter and keep it cool in the summer. After all, the basement non-residential floor is often used specifically for storing food, and if it is above the freezing level of the soil, such measures are mandatory. But underground, an unheated basement does not need to be insulated.

The basement is insulated from the outside with extruded polystyrene foam, since it is not hygroscopic, unlike ordinary foam. Insulation must be laid on waterproofing, such as bitumen and roofing material. The base is dug out for a meter and EPPS is attached to a special glue.

After that, the soil is poured back in layers.

On the ground part of the basement floor, the insulation is laid on glue, and fixed on top with dowels and reinforcing mesh. The final stage is the lining of the basement. The material can be anything - from decorative stone to PVC panels. But it is better to choose a damage-resistant and water-repellent material.

If the base is low, about 50 cm, it is better to fill up the space under the subfloor. This option will turn out to be much warmer - there is no cold air under the floor of the house, there is no need to arrange ventilation that will have to be closed for the winter.

Backfilling is done with ordinary soil, and the last 10 cm to the floor are filled with sand. Both soil and sand must be rammed separately when wet.

It is economically unprofitable to fill up a higher base. In this case, it will have to be insulated according to the same principle as the basement, but to organize ventilation ducts that remain open in the summer and close in the winter. Special attention should be paid to the insulation of the basement for a house on a columnar or pile foundation.

Freely "walking" cold wind significantly increases the heat loss of the floor.

Common features of wooden floor insulation

When the base is in order, you can proceed directly to the floor. Regardless of the stage of work (during construction or in an already inhabited house), do-it-yourself insulation includes:

1. Laying or checking and replacing the lag.
2. Laying waterproofing on the logs (or under them if the logs lie on the sand).
3. Laying insulation between the lags.
4. Layer of vapor barrier on top of the insulation.
5. The device of a counter-lattice for the gap between the finishing floor and the vapor barrier.
6. Finished flooring.

For waterproofing, you can use any rolled material - from thick polyethylene to innovative, but expensive, materials.

For vapor barrier it is best to use polyethylene foam with aluminum coating on one side.

This will provide both additional floor insulation and prevent condensation from entering the insulation. If the winters are not very cold, sometimes only a layer of polyethylene foam is enough without additional insulation. But it is better to insulate the floor as well as possible, because then you will have to remove the coating again if the insulation is not enough.

The vapor barrier is laid with the “shiny” side to the finished floor. Both hydro and vapor barriers are overlapped with an allowance of at least 10 cm, and the joints are sealed with metallized adhesive tape.

Insulation with roll and tile materials

Even at the lag device stage, you need to decide what material will be used for insulation. Depending on its width and length, a lag step will be selected, between which a heater is laid very tightly and without gaps.

Ideally, the height of the log should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool layer, but given the need for an air gap between the vapor barrier and the finished wooden floor, you can simply not make a counter-lattice. In this case, the vapor barrier is attached with a construction stapler to the sidewalls of the log so that it lies on the mineral wool without an air gap between them.

It is important to remember that the sides of the plates have different hardness. Such a heater is laid with the hard side up. For convenience, the right side is already marked with a blue stripe, so it's hard to make a mistake.

It is best to use plates with corrugated edges - this will provide the best grip. Lay the plates as tightly as possible, starting from the corner. The next row starts with an offset of half the plate. The last plates should enter with effort. Possible gaps are sealed with construction foam.

Thermal insulation with bulk and sprayed materials

There are more "exotic" ways to insulate the floors in the house. For example, sawdust is increasingly being used as a natural and environmentally friendly material.

The technology is not very different:

• on the plates fixed under the logs, a vapor-permeable material is laid, and not polyethylene;
• sawdust is poured out between the lags and poured from a watering can with a weak lime mortar;
• as soon as the material dries and sits down, a finishing floor is laid - vapor barrier is not needed.

But here you need to pay special attention to hydro and vapor barrier, as well as the dryness of the expanded clay itself. Because of the pores, it is very hygroscopic, but practically does not release moisture. Therefore, with improper installation, expanded clay accumulated moisture will only aggravate the situation.

Warming the floor of the house with sprayed materials - polyurethane foam, ecowool or penoizol, is practically inaccessible for self-implementation, and in some cases it is dangerous. This will require special equipment, and buying it to insulate a small house is extremely unprofitable.

The process of installing a wooden subfloor, its insulation, hydro and vapor barrier is detailed in the video:

One of the common and important problems of a private house made of wood is a cold floor. This is due to the outflow from the ground of cold air currents that penetrate through the cracks. In order for the room to be warm and comfortable, it is necessary to carry out floor insulation in a wooden house from below. How to do this, what materials are used for this and the main points of installation work are described in this article.

Useful advice! Working with cotton wool requires special protective clothing for the body, gloves and goggles. This is due to the fact that during the installation work, small fibers are separated from the plates. They can cause skin irritation and itching.

Floor insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a small round porous balls of slate or clay. They are obtained by firing materials in a furnace at high temperature. Expanded clay is considered a safe and environmentally friendly material. Among its advantages are:

• high sound insulation;
• resistance to low temperatures;
• environmental safety for humans.

A noticeable disadvantage of this material is the compaction under its own weight. Expanded clay balls are pressed together. This leads to an increase in the weight of the substance and a decrease in thermal insulation properties.

Useful advice! You should not choose this material for floor insulation in a wooden house on screw piles. An increase in the mass of the floor covering can lead to subsidence of the foundation of the structure.

Using sawdust for floor insulation

Sawdust is a waste product of the woodworking industry. They have good steam and sound insulation characteristics, retain heat, and are environmentally friendly for humans. Sawdust are of low cost. The resulting thermal effect is no worse than that of expensive materials. Thanks to the cement component, they are also well suited for floor insulation in a ground floor apartment. Subsequently, laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc. can be laid on such a screed.

Before use, sawdust is subjected to special treatment. This helps to prevent the appearance of rodents and beetles in them. After, they are mixed with cement and water and evenly applied over the entire floor area.

Useful advice!Clay can be used instead of mortar. This material is environmentally friendly and has better thermal insulation characteristics than cement.

Sawdust is ideal for insulating floors on the ground, especially if the building does not have a solid and solid foundation.

Floor insulation with foam

Popular floor insulation with polystyrene foam. Most often, this material is called foam. The advantages of this heater:

• low vapor and sound permeability;
• low thermal conductivity;
• resistant to external factors and chemicals;
• does not lose its properties for a long time;
• easy to install.

A significant disadvantage of polystyrene is its susceptibility to moisture. He can absorb it into himself. This negatively affects the basic performance characteristics. He is also afraid of exposure to fire and high temperatures. But the simple and inexpensive technology of floor insulation with polystyrene is its significant advantage. This is what, in most cases, the owner of the house is guided by.

Useful advice! If your dacha or private house is located on land with a close occurrence of groundwater or a high risk of flooding, you should not choose polystyrene foam as a heater. If the choice has already been made, you should take care of good waterproofing.

Ecowool

Polyurethane foam (ecowool) is a great way to solve the issue of floor insulation in an apartment on the ground floor and a private house (cottage). This material is blown into the free space using a compressor. So it evenly fills all the voids. Fine particles that make up ecowool provide excellent vapor barrier. The material is not exposed to moisture, so additional waterproofing is not needed during its installation. This allows you to reduce the cost of insulation.

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After hardening, a solid, even layer is obtained. It handles loads very well. Light weight does not increase the weight of the structure. The service life of this heater is more than 20 years.

A significant disadvantage of ecowool is the need to use special industrial equipment.

Useful advice! Professionals say that when insulating with this material, waterproofing is not needed. However, when insulating the floor in a country house without a foundation, it is better to lay an additional waterproofing layer.

Penofol: floor insulation

The combination of polyethylene foam and a thin layer of aluminum foil is called foam foam. It is sold as a rolled roll. The thickness of the seal is from 3 to 10 mm. Penofol retains heat well, is environmentally friendly, has high sound insulation.

Retains heat well

The big disadvantage of this material is exposure to moisture due to the presence of aluminum foil in the composition. Another disadvantage is that penofol does not differ in long-term operation. After five years it is necessary to carry out re-insulation.

The main points of the installation work

All materials used for floor insulation have their own fixing methods. However, there are highlights of the thermal protection device. They are recommended to be observed when installing any material.

The order of arrangement of the main layers when installing floor insulation in a wooden house with your own hands:

• waterproofing layer;
• thermal insulation layer;
• vapor barrier material;
• direct structural elements of the floor;
• flooring.

Experts say that such an arrangement of the main layers will allow you to get the optimal thermal regime inside the room. This technology maintains the necessary circulation of moisture in the house.

Useful advice! When insulating the floor of the basement in a wooden house, you can choose beams with a cross section of 50 to 100 mm. They are fixed from below, and a layer of insulation is laid between them. The additionally obtained "pie" should be sewn up with boards.

Waterproofing

When insulating the floor in a private house, you can not do without waterproofing. Due to the ability of cold air to condense on a warm surface, the wood floor is exposed to moisture. Its constant presence in the room leads to the active development of fungus, mold and causes decay of the structure itself. Especially if special tools were not used during the construction of the house.

When laying thermal insulation without a waterproofing layer, the effect of moisture negatively affects the heat-conducting properties of the material. The result is an increase in humidity in the room and a decrease in temperature. Waterproofing helps to avoid these unpleasant moments.

A waterproofing layer is laid from the side of exposure to cold air currents.

Vapor barrier

Human heat and equipment operating in the home emit warm air. It passes through the ceiling and condenses when it encounters cold air. The problem with this phenomenon is that moisture settles inside the structure. As a result, the tree swells and begins to rot from the inside. It will not be possible to prevent this process by processing special means. Therefore, when insulating the floor in a wooden house from below with foam or other material, the presence of a vapor barrier is mandatory.

When carrying out installation work from below, the vapor barrier layer is laid first. The simplest and most affordable material for this is polyethylene film. It is excellent for both steam and waterproofing.

The presence of such layers in the flooring should be designed in advance. If this was not done on time, then it is necessary to lay the film immediately after putting the house into operation.

Useful advice! An excellent material for hydro- and vapor barriers are moisture-windproof membranes. This material allows air to circulate and retains moisture from it inside. It can be used when insulating the floor with penofol or other insulation.

The main stages of laying insulation

The best installation option is laying floor insulation along the logs. These cross boards are used for subsequent flooring.

The main stages of work:

• a log is installed on the finished foundation. The recommended distance between the bars is not more than 1-1.2 m;
• after that, thick plywood or chipboard sheets are installed. They are fixed with self-tapping screws. This is how the base is prepared for laying the heat-insulating layer;
• insulation is laid between the wooden lags. Depending on the material used, the thickness of this layer may vary. In any case, it should not exceed the size of the lag itself;
• then a layer of waterproofing is laid. Although this step is recommended by experts for maximum effect, it can be skipped. This is due to the resistance of some materials to moisture;
• Now you can lay the flooring. It may be old. Or it can be replaced with a new one.

Compliance with this sequence will allow you to insulate the wooden floor with foam or other insulation.

Features insulation with sawdust

Floor insulation with sawdust is an eco-friendly and affordable way to keep the heat in the house. When choosing this heater, you must adhere to a number of recommendations:

• broken glass should be added to the prepared mixture of sawdust with cement or clay. This will prevent the appearance of rodents. Do not forget about the use of special solutions;
• the mixture consists of five parts of sawdust, one part of cement (clay) and half of water. This proportion must be observed. When mixing a steeper solution, you will get a durable insulation, but with a low thermal conductivity;
• carefully fill the voids between the lags. This will allow you to get an even layer of insulation. If this technology is not maintained, the thermal insulation will be “leaky”, and the floor will remain cold.

Useful advice! Due to the large number of insulation materials on the market and the time spent on preparing the mixture, sawdust is rarely used for insulation. However, they will help solve the issue of isolation with a limited financial budget.

Features of foam insulation

Due to its high strength and affordable cost, foam floor insulation in a wooden house is more common than other materials.

Among the features of the installation of this insulation, we note the following points:

• penoplex is laid between the lags and fastened to the floor from below with mounting glue;
• it is necessary to accurately and tightly fit the edges of the plates. This will avoid the penetration of cold air;
• joints are additionally glued for maximum adhesion;

• a waterproofing layer is required. This is especially important for a private house or cottage in a swampy area;
• before laying foam plastic, wooden beams and crossbars are treated with a special solution. This will avoid rotting and the appearance of bugs.

Useful advice! If you live in an apartment building, then choosing foam as a floor insulation is the best solution. This material is laid in a thin layer and does not affect the height of the room.

Due to its light weight, penoplex is great for floor insulation in a frame house. The load on the foundation of the building will be minimal. This will avoid shrinkage of the house over time.

The main points of expanded clay insulation

The laying of this insulation takes place according to the technology described above. However, there are a number of features that you need to be aware of. To conduct floor insulation in a wooden house with expanded clay, you must:

• be sure to lay a pillow of sand. It is poured in an even layer and carefully rammed;
• a layer of liquid mastic is applied on top of this pillow. It plays the role of waterproofing;

• now expanded clay falls asleep. In order for the layer to be as even as possible and without voids, it is recommended to use a material of different fractions. This will allow the granules to fit closer to each other;
• vapor barrier is required. Only after it can the main flooring be laid.

Due to the significant weight of this material, it is better to insulate a wooden floor with expanded clay with a solid foundation.

Do-it-yourself warming of a wooden floor in a house: video

Today on the Internet there are a great many training videos for self-assembly of insulation. Viewing them will allow you to understand the technology of work, the principles of choice and the main stages of laying materials. In addition, these videos contain a large number of useful points. So you can find out, for example, about the correct filling of the floor screed with insulation with polystyrene foam.

In order for the floor in the house to turn out to be warm, it is necessary to take into account many nuances. The right choice of insulation plays an important role in this. When choosing a material for yourself, you should not start from the price or installation technology. Consider the type of building, the nuances of the landscape and the features of the operation of the house (permanent or seasonal). Based on this, you can choose the perfect floor insulation.