The device of wooden floors in a private house. How to equip wooden floors in a private house We make floors in country houses

The arrangement of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time, and they will need to be replaced. Using some impregnation, you can protect the tree from decay. Chemical protection methods are very effective and prevent the process of material deterioration. However, a wooden structure impregnated with chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that it is because of this indicator that a tree is chosen, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between the layers. Fasten the wooden flooring using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

Source 1poderevu.ru

The subfloor denotes certain bases, which by themselves form an ideal surface for laying the final floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed to the floor covering.

In wooden structures, draft floors are made by three methods:

• wooden on logs;
• pouring concrete;
• use of plywood flooring.

Source fondeco.ru

Wooden floors on logs

In a wooden house, the subfloor device does not differ from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only feature is how the lags are attached:

1. There is no need to fasten the logs to various wooden boards. The best option is to strengthen them to the basement or grillage of the foundation, retreating a couple of centimeters from all the walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11 cm on all sides of the lag.
2. Before laying the base, lay the strapping from below, which is made of a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. They do not need to be rigidly strengthened with strapping. It should only be fixed so that they do not stagger while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a few centimeters indent from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before that, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. It is necessary to first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut out in the tree the dimensions necessary for the groove, which will be required for the support function.

Important: it is recommended to add about 2cm to further widen the lag. It must be remembered that the laying of the log and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the laying of the waterproofing layer is completed.

Source kamtehnopark.ru

The standard steps between two lags are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, the choice of the lag section and the acting load is made. With small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, with heavy loads - 15x20, with medium ones - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load action, if the beams have a small section, it is desirable to provide section parameters of 30x40 cm.

Installation of subfloors on logs

When the installation is done, you will need to do the standard installation. It is carried out in several stages:

1. It is necessary to fix the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the log from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial bar with boards that will have more lags in width. They will need to be nailed either along or below the lags.
2. Boards should be laid. They need to be laid on the cranial bar, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
3. Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it goes onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation, and use a stapler for fastening.
4. Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
5. Vapor barrier. Lay in the same way as waterproofing.
6. Ventilation. To create a ventilation gap, you only need to break through the counter rails along the lag on top of the vapor barrier.
7. Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to use chipboard sheets, as well as boards. From the wall, the logs must be separated by a gap of 2 cm. They will then be placed heaters.

Source lineyka.net

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer house design services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

Read more about floor insulation in a wooden house - in this video:

Rough plywood floors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has a high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

1. On a cement base. It will be necessary to provide a horizontal and even base or use leveling stands.
2. Attach to the legs. The main thing is to correctly set the lags to ensure that the joint of the sheet hits them. The joists must be set in such a way that the top surface provides a straight line. They then remove the insulation and sound insulation.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it is necessary that it be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers, the minimum thickness should be at least 9mm.

Source homius.ru

All debris and dust must be removed from the base prior to final laying. If possible, priming should also be done - primer treatment. Plywood must be fixed with glue, and the head of the self-tapping screw must be drowned.

Concrete floor

Like the draft and finishing floor in a wooden house, the concrete version is less common than the others. The concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved with the help of thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is more even and durable. The concrete floor in a wooden house is also chosen because it is better preserved from destruction.

Source zamokok.ru

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

1. Lay on the lags.
2. Lay on the ground.
3. A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
4. The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
5. Stakes less than 11 cm should be hammered into the ground, so that later gravel can be poured over them. After that, it should be tamped and the pegs removed.
6. Next, the sand is poured.
7. Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
8. Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equated with the height of the cord. The concrete is then poured onto the prepared surface.
9. Concrete is leveled along the rails.
10. Next, the concrete should be covered with a film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is sometimes necessary to spray the mass with water.
11. After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing lags

Some environmental factors, such as dampness, should not affect the lags. Therefore, when providing a floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to protect them from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

The drug with a bioprotective composition protects the tree from mold, decay, blue discoloration, beetles and fungi. One application of such funds will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Source centermira.ru

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

• environmental friendliness;
• slight odor;
• absence of allergens.

It is necessary to apply preparations before the installation of the floor in a wooden house has begun.

Indelible antiseptic

A great option if the city has high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high rainfall, temperature fluctuations, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 coats. After completion of work, the color of the tree will become pistachio.

Folk methods

Folk remedies for processing lags:

1. Transformer oil. Due to deep penetration into the structure of the tree and embalming, this agent perfectly protects the material.
2. Resin. From bugs, fungi and decay, birch resin will perfectly help. Its only disadvantage is the vulnerability to fire.
3. Motor oil. Pros - low price, good protection. Cons - too strong smell, sometimes interfering for several months.

Source decorexpro.com

Before starting work, you should understand the layout of wooden floors, which consist of 4 “layers”:

1. Draft coating.
2. Heat and waterproofing layers.
3. Clean floor.
4. Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finishing floor in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 stages, which were mentioned above, and start working on the finishing floor.

Source lesdomik.ru

To make a finishing floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is being built in 3 stages:

1. Logs are laid - so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
2. The board must be fixed closer to the wall.
3. Next, you should use a hammer and a bar so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. With the help of a self-tapping screw, fasteners of each log are carried out through the comb.

Important! If there are plans to change the floor in the future, it is necessary to use a simple mounting option - all floorboards should be fixed from above to the logs using self-tapping screws.

Source ms.decorexpro.com

Conclusion

The construction of a private house is a rather lengthy process that requires a certain amount of time and considerable effort. Many owners of suburban areas want to save on construction by doing some of the work with their own hands. To figure out how to make wooden floors in a private house, you should take care of the preparation of materials, as well as the choice of the necessary tools.

The choice of floor design

Before starting work, you should select the type of floor construction. Among the most common are the following varieties:

• single;
• double;
• concrete floor.

The choice of a particular design is based on the features of the building in which the floor will be laid. The main factor influencing such a decision is the nature of the operation of the house. When choosing a single design, it should be borne in mind that it is only suitable for summer houses or summer cottages. The device of such a floor in a house with year-round living is unacceptable.

The boardwalk in this case is simply laid on the logs. The thermal insulation of such a floor is very low. For the construction of such foundations, it is not necessary to prepare a lot of material. Work on the installation of a single floor is carried out quite quickly.

If you decide to build a capital private house in which you can live at any time, you should start building a double floor. This design is more insulated than a single version. The main layers of such a floor are the rough and finish coatings. Between them are placed layers of hydro and thermal insulation. Such a floor device is able to protect the entire structure of the house from destruction.

Often the draft layer of a double floor in a country house is made of unedged boards. Fine finish is made of grooved board. All stages of work can be carried out independently. Thermal insulation is usually made of expanded clay.

Another option for creating a floor in a private house is a concrete base. Such structures are carried out by pouring concrete screed. If you follow all the requirements when creating such such a floor, it will turn out to be durable and strong. It can also be finished with any coating.

Wood flooring

A wooden floor for creating a coating in private homes is chosen quite often. This is due to its environmental friendliness. Many people want to have a quality wood flooring. Such floors have a number of significant advantages.

With careful processing, wooden flooring can last for decades without changing its appearance and physical characteristics. In addition, wooden floors have high thermal insulation properties. They create comfort in the house. In addition, the installation of wooden flooring is done by hand. For work, you will need to prepare a standard set of tools.

Before you make a floor in a private house, you should take care of choosing the type of wood. It should be selected according to the type of building. The floor is arranged from several layers. It must have thermal and waterproofing. The subfloor acts as an air gap. Due to it, wooden elements will not be exposed to moisture. They will not develop mold or fungus.

The floor covering is constantly under mechanical stress during operation. That is why the wood that will be chosen for the floor must have good technical performance. Boards must be dried before coating. The moisture content of wooden elements should not exceed 12%.

It is also worth visually inspecting the elements of the future floor. They should not have chips or cracks. Otherwise, it may affect the quality of the coating. Also, before laying, wooden elements are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will extend the life of such products.

Installation of a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

• First you need to determine the location of the supports. Gravel should be poured in place of the harvested fertile soil. Sand falls on top. This is how the pillow is made. Each layer should be carefully compacted. The ends of the supporting pillars are wrapped with waterproofing material. Usually, roofing material is used for this purpose.
• After that, the beams should be laid. And they are attached to the supports with the help of corners and self-tapping screws. Floors in a country house should be carefully insulated. Professional builders recommend laying plywood sheets before installing the insulation. Mineral wool is usually used as the insulation material.
• When the insulation layer is laid, you can begin the rough flooring. Boards should be chosen in such a way that they fit snugly against each other. Self-tapping screws are used to connect them to the beams. About 1.5 cm is left between the subfloor and the walls. Such gaps make it possible to exclude structural distortions during thermal expansion.
• A vapor barrier is laid on top of the subfloor. It usually has a thickness of 200 microns. The joints of the canvas are glued with construction tape. The edges of the vapor barrier are wound onto the walls to a height of 20 cm. After laying the film, you should start laying the finish coat.

Solid wood boards are used for the finishing floor. Sheets of plywood can also be used. They are much easier to attach. However, their appearance leaves much to be desired. For this reason, it is better to choose grooved boards. Plywood can be covered with various decorative finishes. The floor of the boards is usually varnished. This allows you to protect the coating from various influences. Also, thanks to the use of varnish, the aesthetic properties of a wooden floor can be emphasized. You can build a warm floor with your own hands in the case of constructing a concrete screed.

Concrete floor

Creating a concrete base requires some preparation. First, the site on which it is planned to create a floor must be cleared of debris. You also need to remove the top layer of soil. The earth must be rammed. Gravel is poured on top. The concrete floor structure must be thermally insulated. The gravel layer is covered with sand. As soon as it is rammed, you can lay a plastic wrap. It will become a reliable waterproofing.

Then the work is carried out according to the standard scheme. Reinforcement bars are placed on the waterproofing layer and concrete mortar is poured. Concrete screed in this case is performed similarly to the one that is equipped in the apartment. To make the floor even, you need to set the beacons. As soon as the concrete dries, they should be removed. The solution is leveled using the rule. Work is carried out from the wall towards the doorway.

In the process of pouring concrete mortar, it is better to do the work according to certain rules. For example, the mixture must be fresh. Also, in the process of its preparation, cement of a certain brand is used. It must be at least M300. In addition, water and sand screening are added to the solution. Plasticizers increase the strength of concrete.

If the screed is more than 5 cm, reinforcement should be laid. For this purpose, a ready-made mesh is usually purchased. It is laid on a waterproofing film. When creating a floor heating system in a country house, the use of plasticizers and reinforcement is mandatory.

Once the concrete has gained strength, you can pull out the beacons and fill the resulting voids with concrete mortar. Completely hardening of concrete takes about a month. A warm floor in a private house will require the installation of heating elements either during the execution of the screed or after its construction.

Drying the floor is carried out according to certain rules. The base should be covered with plastic wrap. Within three days, the concrete must be wetted. If the screed has a floor heating system, it is forbidden to turn it on until the solution has completely hardened. Otherwise, the floor will crack.

fine finish

Laying the finish coat is quite simple. Decorative elements are mounted independently. The choice of finishing depends on the tastes of the owner of the house. It is also worth considering the features of the operation of the floor.

There are several options. The most common of these is boardwalk. The finished floor in this case does not need to be additionally closed. When choosing this option, a rather beautiful and practical coating is obtained. In addition, floor boards will last for decades if properly processed. They are usually impregnated with special compounds and varnished. This allows you to protect the floor from the effects of dirt and various chemicals.

The concrete floor in a country house is usually performed taking into account the laying of the finish coating. For its decoration, parquet is usually chosen. However, such a floor will be quite expensive. It is characterized by high environmental friendliness and an excellent degree of thermal insulation. It is impractical to carry out a parquet floor in a country house, because permanent residence is not planned in it. However, for a capital structure, such coverage will be optimal.

Among other materials for the floor, it is worth highlighting carpet, laminate, tile and linoleum. Laminate is laid in the living room and bedrooms. Linoleum is suitable only for the floor in the hallway and kitchen. Tiles are also used for flooring in the kitchen and hallway. For the bedroom, you should also use carpet.

The variety of modern colors and flooring materials allows you to choose the most optimal flooring option for yourself. Floors with different patterns look very nice. Natural stone and wood look impressive.

conclusions

To figure out which types of flooring are more suitable for a private house, you should know the features of the operation of the building. For example, for a country house, you do not need to equip the floor in several layers. It also does not need to be insulated. Such buildings are used only in the warm season. Also, the installation of floors in a private house is usually performed using wood. Such material has a low price, and is also simply and quickly mounted.

For capital buildings, a more complex structure will have to be equipped. At the same time, the wooden floor must have several layers, including hydro and thermal insulation. Before installing such a floor, you need to carefully prepare. You will also have to choose high-quality materials. Before deciding what type of flooring to make in a private house, you should familiarize yourself with the features of each type of floor.

The concrete base is carried out in stages. It is chosen only if necessary to create a reliable and durable floor.

The construction of a private house is a long process, requiring a large investment of time, labor and finances. Many, in an effort to save money, decide to carry out part of the work on their own. How to make floors in private houses without resorting to the services of builders? Making the floor yourself is quite realistic if you have the necessary materials, tools and knowledge.

Which floor design to choose?

Before proceeding with the construction of floors in a private house, it is necessary to determine the type of construction of the future coating. Experts distinguish three types of structures:

• Single;
• Double;
• Concrete floor.

The choice of one or another type of construction depends on the characteristics of the building in which the floor is laid. The determining factor can be recognized as the operating conditions of a private house. A single floor is the simplest construction; it does not take much time and materials to build such a floor, since the floorboards are nailed directly to the logs. The main disadvantage of a single plank floor is its limited use: such a coating would be appropriate only in small summer houses and summer cottages. For a house where year-round living is planned, a single design is not suitable.

If you want to make a private house suitable for living at any time of the year, then you will have to deal with the arrangement of a double floor. This type of construction is warmer, reduces heat loss and ensures comfortable living in the house during the cold season. The double floor consists of several layers, the main of which are the rough and finish coatings. Between these two layers, hydro- and heat-insulating materials are additionally laid, protecting both the floor itself and the entire house from destruction.

Most often, the rough coating in a private house is assembled from unedged boards, and the final floor is made from grooved floorboards. All work, including the laying of thermal insulation from sawdust or expanded clay, can be easily done with your own hands.

The third possible type of floor construction in a private house is a poured concrete screed. Compliance with all the rules for preparatory work, laying waterproofing, pouring cement mortar and the timing of its drying will allow you to get a solid high-quality floor, ready for finishing with any decorative coating.

Installation of wooden floors

When building a private house, many people prefer to make the floor out of wood. Such a desire to have high-quality wooden flooring underfoot is explained by the desire to use environmentally friendly materials, which include wood. In addition to high environmental friendliness, such a floor has a number of other advantages.

Wooden floors are easy to install and easy to repair during operation. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the material, such a floor will keep heat inside the house without releasing it outside. Plank flooring made of quality wood is characterized by a long service life and an attractive "natural" appearance.

To make a floor in a private house, you need to choose the right wood. The choice of starting materials should be based on the design features of the structure itself. The device of the floor in a country house must necessarily provide for the presence of a subfloor that acts as an air gap. If such a layer is absent, then the wooden floor will quickly become unusable due to moisture. In addition, for a good floor, it is important to have all the layers of the structure, including logs, rough flooring, hydro and thermal insulation, and a finishing coating.

The floor in a private house is subjected to significant mechanical stress, so for its construction it is required to choose wood with good technological characteristics. The boards must be well dried, the recommended moisture content is no more than 12%. Any chips and cracks on the surface of the material are not allowed. Experts recommend giving preference to coniferous wood, suitable for pine, larch, fir, cedar. To increase the life of the future floor, all boards must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

The installation of a wooden floor begins with the determination of places for the supporting pillars and their installation. The fertile layer of soil around the entire perimeter of the house is removed and removed, gravel is poured in its place, and sand is placed on top of it. Layers of gravel and sand must be well compacted. Waterproofing material is laid on the ends of the supporting pillars, most often ordinary roofing material is used for these purposes.

Next, we make beams that need to be fixed on poles with metal corners. Floors in a private house are best done with double insulation. Experts suggest first laying plywood sheets on the sides of the beams, and then placing mineral wool or other insulating material on them.

When the insulation layer is ready, you can start laying the rough coating. The boards of this layer should fit well to each other; ordinary self-tapping screws can be used as their fastening to the beams. It is better to leave some distance between the flooring and the walls of the house: a gap of 1.5 cm can be considered the norm for this part of the floor. These gaps provide ventilation for the entire floor structure and protect the walls from expansion of the floorboards when they dry out.

A layer of vapor barrier made of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid over the subfloor. The joints of individual pieces of film must be glued with adhesive tape, and the edges should be wrapped on the walls to a height of about 20 cm - to the height of the finish coating. When the film is laid and fixed, you can proceed to the assembly of the finished floor.

The finished floor is assembled from solid boards or plywood sheets. Plywood sheets are easier to attach, but in the end they do not look very attractive. Therefore, if you want to leave wooden floors in your house, then it is best to immediately collect the finishing coating from a grooved board, and if you plan to cover it with decorative material, it is enough to fix the plywood sheets. Plank floors after assembling the finished floor must be varnished, which will not only protect the material from external influences of a mechanical and chemical nature, but also emphasize the decorative qualities of natural wood.

Pouring concrete floor

Arrangement of a concrete floor in a private house begins with preparatory work. First, markings and gravel filling are done at the site of the future floor. The soil is preliminarily cleared of plants and the top layer, and then compacted. Next, a layer of gravel is poured, which also needs to be well compacted. In the construction of a concrete floor in a private house, gravel will play the role of thermal insulation. Sand is poured over the gravel. After it is compacted, a thick polyethylene film is spread on the surface, which acts as a waterproofing material.

How to make a concrete floor in a private house? After installing the waterproofing layer, you can start pouring the screed. A cement screed in a country house is poured in the same way as a screed in an apartment: levels are set and a mortar is poured, which is leveled from the wall to the door by the rule.

When pouring a concrete screed, several features should be taken into account. The solution for pouring must be fresh, for its preparation it is recommended to use cement grade not lower than M-300, screening of sand and water. To increase the strength of the concrete layer, special compounds can be added to the solution - plasticizers, which will give additional strength to the future coating.

When pouring a screed with a height of 5 cm, you can use reinforcing elements or a reinforcing mesh, which is laid on the waterproofing layer before pouring. In the case of arranging warm water floors in a private house, the use of a reinforcing mesh and the addition of plasticizers to the cement mortar are mandatory procedures.

When the concrete hardens a little after pouring, you can remove the beacons. The voids left after their removal are filled with the same solution. After filling and leveling all the cracks, the floor is covered with polyethylene and left to dry. Drying a concrete floor is a long and responsible undertaking. Concrete must dry itself within a month; if there is a floor heating system, it is forbidden to turn on heating until the screed is completely dry. By turning on the heating elements, you will help the concrete to crack even before the room is used. When drying, it is recommended to periodically moisten the concrete screed with water and cover it again with polyethylene: if this requirement is met, the coating will gain maximum strength and will not crack.

In order to correctly make the cement pour, remove the beacons and dry the concrete, it is recommended to consider photos with the work of builders specializing in arranging floors in private homes.

fine finish

It is quite simple to make only a finishing floor in a private house from scratch, but sometimes additional decorative coating is required. You can also deal with this problem yourself. How can you cover the floor in a private house?

The best option for a private house can be considered a double floor of planks. The finish coating of this design can not be coated with anything additionally. This option is practical and beautiful, and also has a long service life with proper care. Before the start of operation, the boards should be treated with protective compounds and varnished, which will protect them from the effects of sand, dirt, water and chemicals. For coating, you can choose both a transparent varnish, leaving the natural color of the wood, and colored, giving the floor a different shade.

The concrete floor in a private house assumes the presence of a top layer of decorative coating. Parquet or parquet board will look chic as a floor finish. Such a coating is quite expensive, but it is highly environmentally friendly, has good antistatic and thermal insulation characteristics. It does not make sense to make parquet, but in a house where you plan to live permanently, such a coating will look appropriate.

More affordable laminate, linoleum, carpet and ceramic tiles can be considered as analogues of parquet. Laminate is suitable for the living room and bedrooms, ceramic tiles will look appropriate in the kitchen, bathroom and hallway. Linoleum is also best placed only in the kitchen or in the hallway. The use of carpet is more limited: the material is suitable for finishing the floor in bedrooms.

The range of modern colors and textures of the listed materials allows you to choose a coating for every taste. In a private house, floors with natural patterns that repeat the texture of wood or natural stone will look appropriate.

A wooden house is associated with comfort and warmth. Natural wood materials create a special atmosphere, they are safe for health. At the same time, wood requires special care and compliance with the requirements of operation. Building a floor in a wooden house also involves a special approach. Let's see how we can do it right.

Gender Requirements

A properly laid floor in a wooden house must satisfy such parameters as practicality and durability. It needs to be warm and even. Not the last role is played by its aesthetic appearance. If we lay the floor with additional insulation, we must not forget that in this case it will be necessary to raise it.

To lay the floor with your own hands in accordance with these requirements, you need to determine the order of work, take into account all the individual features of the operation and design of the building.

The whole process can be conditionally divided into several stages:

• Consideration of the properties of various floor structures;
• Studying the laying process depending on the type chosen;
• Construction and installation of the selected type of structure.

The most common types of flooring in a wooden house are concrete, plywood or laid on logs. With the help of logs or concrete screed, you can raise the level of the floor. In the photo you can see how the floor looks like using different materials.

For your information: In this case, regardless of the type chosen, it is possible to equip the floor heating system. This will be very useful for year-round living in the house. Similar designs also allow you to raise the level of the floor.

Features of the concrete floor

• Minimum time spent on work, compared with a full-fledged overlap of wood materials;
• Cost reduction;
• In order to arrange a concrete floor with your own hands, special construction skills are not required. It is enough to fill the screed in accordance with the level. The result is a leveled surface on which any floor covering can be laid.

The disadvantages include:

• A tangible load on the foundation, so you should first carry out calculations to avoid problems in this area;
• Small fluctuations can cause cracks in the concrete surface, which threatens heat loss.

Wooden design features

A wooden base, like any other, has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include:

• safety for health, the tree does not emit any hazardous substances;
• you can design any design design;
• if necessary, all work can be carried out with improvised tools and materials.

We must not forget that the floor in a wooden house has served for many years, it is necessary to lay it in compliance with all requirements and recommendations. This will avoid subsidence of the floor, because then you will either have to replace the floor, or be puzzled by the question of how to raise it.

The disadvantages include:

• complexity of installation;
• high price;
• duration of work;
• the difficulty of leveling the structure.

What is the design of a wooden floor?

In order to properly lay the floor with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that its design consists of a subfloor, a layer of thermal and waterproofing, a finished floor and a floor covering.

The design can be two-layer or single. If we stele in the second way, then there may be no lag. Their presence or absence is determined by the thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams.

Sometimes it happens that a wooden structure is displaced under the influence of various factors, which leads to deformation of the subfloor. When building a multilayer structure, the immobile state of the upper layers is ensured.

In the presence of support pillars, as well as in cases where beams are inserted into house walls, it is necessary to lay the logs in a mandatory order.

How to make flooring using a log?

You can put a draft floor in a wooden house with your own hands using one of two options:

• on the logs;
• using floor beams.

Logs allow you to raise the level of the floor, so it is not always rational to use them in rooms with a low ceiling. They are attached either on top of the foundation, or to the walls of the log house. Before putting the material, the logs should be brought into the room in order to acclimatize them, where they should stay for several days.
Stele as follows:

• We place two of them along opposite walls and connect them with nylon threads, they should be placed at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. These threads will be used as guidelines for attaching the remaining lags. The space between the lags is filled with a layer of insulation;
• When thick boards of 30 or 40 cm are used, the distance between the lags can be up to 0.8 m. When the boards are less than 30 cm thick, the distance between the lags must be reduced to 0.5-0.6 m. When the boards are thicker than 40 cm, the distance can reach 1 m;
• The use of chipboard or fiberboard wedges can level the floor surface by adjusting the level of the joist height. Such wedges are fixed with self-tapping screws or long nails;
• When it is supposed to mount the lag on top of a concrete base, then the mount can be made with dowels or anchors. In no case should one forget about the treatment of lags with an antiseptic composition;
• The next step is to lay and strengthen the boards. The first row is fastened with a 1.5 cm indent from the walls. Requires pre-drilling holes for self-tapping screws;
• We lay the boards on each of the lags, after which we fix it. The gaps that remain between the walls and the floor from the boards are closed with skirting boards. You can also use staples, they are connected to the boards and fastened with nails. On the video you can see how this process is carried out.

If fiberboard or chipboard is selected as the base for the floor

Using this method, you can also raise the floor with your own hands in a wooden house. In order to lay the subfloor, you can choose plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. This material is characterized by reliability, durability, it does not give in to deformation. In addition, if necessary, materials such as fiberboard or chipboard can be easily dismantled and replaced.

The sheet laying scheme must be pre-thought out and marked out. Then, in accordance with the markings, lay the lags. In the photo you can see an example of such a scheme.

To lay the floor even, you can use beacons. To do this, you need to install them on the entire surface of the floor. For these purposes, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is divided into squares of 30-40 cm, at the corners of which self-tapping screws are screwed. To install beacons, you need a level. After that, you can lay the logs, on which in the future it is supposed to lay chipboard or fiberboard.

The thickness of the sheets of chipboard or fiberboard determines what will be the distance between the lags. In general, it is not more than 40 cm. When boards are installed across between the bars, they should be fixed at a distance of half a meter from each other.

From sagging lags, you can also make substrates from pieces of chipboard or fiberboard, which must first be lubricated with parquet glue. Impregnation of the entire surface of the floor with glue will avoid cod. Between the lags and sheets of chipboard, fiberboard or plywood we make a layer of moisture-proof material.

It is desirable that all the edges of the sheets used fall on the logs, and the chipboard (DFP) sheets themselves are laid at a distance of a couple of millimeters from each other, this is necessary in case of material deformation. Joints must be sanded to level the surface. On the video you can see how you can lay sheets of plywood (chipboard, fiberboard or other material).

Making a clean floor

It is best to lay a finishing floor with your own hands using tongue-and-groove boards (pictured below). They imply a convenient connection with each other. When one board is attached to the previous one with a special lock.

You can adjust the boards to each other with a mallet, tapping on them. You can fix the board to the joists with long nails, which should be driven in at a slight angle, sinking the nail head into the board.

A finished floor made of grooved boards must be sanded and varnished or painted.

The arrangement of the finished floor with tongue-and-groove boards is suitable for both double and single construction. Double, of course, will be much warmer. She should be preferred for year-round living in a wooden house. A diagram of this design can be seen in the photo.

How to lower the floor?

Owners of old houses often have to deal with the problem of low ceilings. To increase the space with your own hands, it is best to raise the ceiling. If this is not possible, the floor surface can be lowered.

Wooden floors allow you to keep warm in the house using minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most common throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coatings.

Floors made of high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics for centuries, are relatively inexpensive, versatile (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for a different type of flooring. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment by just one person.

General principles for wooden floors

Directly sexual boards are always laid on logs, but the logs themselves can be laid both on a concrete or even earthen base, and on supports - usually these are brick, wooden or metal poles. Rarely, but still, a technology is used in which the ends of the log are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and are operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case, it is very difficult to block wide spans - logs of a very large cross section and weight are required, and it is almost impossible to install them correctly alone ...

Installation of wooden floors on a concrete base practically no different from the arrangement of floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. Much more difficult is the case with floor installation on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.

A few words about the tool

From the chosen method of floor installation depends on what tool you need for work. But in any case, you can not do without:

• laser level; in extreme cases, you can use the hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
• conventional or cross building bubble level with a length of at least 1 meter; the cross level is preferable, since it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
• hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
• chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
• jointer and (or) grinders.

The usual carpentry tool will not be superfluous - a square, a small ax, a planer, a chisel, a nail puller.

Floor installation on support poles

Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following "layers" (from bottom to top):

• the basis of all flooring is logs;
• rough ("lower") floor;
• waterproofing layer;
• thermal insulation layer;
• directly wooden floor (finishing flooring);
• finishing flooring.

This whole multi-layered "sandwich" is usually kept on supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.

Installation of brick pillars

The best choice today is brick pillars that have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require much labor during construction. The only limitation is the height of such supporting pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, it will be necessary to increase their cross section, which will lead to a sharp increase in the required amount of bricks and, accordingly, an increase in material costs for construction. With a height of pillars up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is enough, with a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made at least 1.5x1.5 bricks, columns up to 1.5 m high are laid out at least 2x2 bricks.

Anyway under the brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete "pyataks", the area of ​​​​which exceeds the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe columns by at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the platforms is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the log and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN the logs with a section of 100 ... 150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are pulled out in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel "cushion" is made, on which the concrete mixture is poured. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting "penny" is a few centimeters above ground level.

It is at the stage of laying out the supporting pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use a laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE of the LAG plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is already adjusted to its level. It is not necessary to bring it strictly down to a millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the basement of the building - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid "cold bridges".

Some features of the pillars

It is worth considering them the presence of fasteners for beams-lag. Usually, as such fasteners, vertical “studs” with a thread or anchor bolts embedded in 10-20 cm are used - later, through holes are drilled in the logs in appropriate places, with which the beams are “put on” on the resulting pins, and are attracted by nuts with washers. The protruding excess of the "thread" is cut off by the "grinder".

The lateral surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane on which the lag will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster- it will additionally strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. On the surface of the finished columns is laid 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing material.

After the masonry mortar has completely dried and hardened (it takes about a week), logs can already be laid on the finished support pillars.

Laying lag on brick columns

The length of the lag is selected depending on the design of the floor. When laying on supporting pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.

Floating or hard floors?

In the first case, the entire "sandwich" of the floor lies and rests exclusively on the posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the log are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; this design virtually eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building subsides, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.

With a "floating" version of the floor, the length of the log is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise the logs will be difficult to rigidly attach to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into "half-paws" - but the joint must necessarily fall on the support post and be nailed or (for a lag section of up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.

If the final length of the lag is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting the roofing material waterproofing gaskets!); however, it is much better between the roofing material and the lower plane of the beam-lag to lay flat a piece of board with a thickness of 25-50 mm. In the case of butt lags, this must be done!

Log alignment

After laying out the lag on the prepared support pillars, they must be "set" in level. This is done as follows: with the help of wooden spacers of small thickness two extreme beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Gaskets are still used only on the extreme support pillars, while you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; in the case of "floating" floors, this fastening will be temporary.

On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, on the upper planes of the laid lag tightly the construction cord is pulled. All other intermediate beams are displayed on it; then, if necessary, gaskets are installed between the remaining posts and lags. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams should lie tightly on the pillars, in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.

Draft floor

After laying the log, a draft floor is made. To do this, along the entire length of the lower cut of the log, a narrow bar (“cranial” bar) is nailed on each side of it. Raw boards with a length equal to the distance between the lags are laid on it between the lags. After laying, these boards are “solid” covered with a vapor barrier film, on which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof cloth.

Underfloor ventilation

When arranging the floor on brick pillars in the underground space ventilation must be provided- forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. An obligatory element of such ventilation is the so-called "perfume": Through holes in or walls below floor level. Such openings should be available around the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.

The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). Be sure to provide for the possibility of overlapping the ducts in the winter. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the openings of the vents are closed with a mesh with a fine mesh.

When unless the underground is too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of products is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.

How to properly lay floors

Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof sheet. The choice of board depends on what kind of surface the finished floor will be. If it is conceived as natural, a tongue-and-groove floorboard (with a lock) is required; if linoleum or laminate is to be laid, it is quite possible to get by with an ordinary edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRY!

We fasten the grooved board to the lags

The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with a spike to the wall. The following boards are pressed against the previous ones with the help of some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws are not suitable in this case, they poorly attract the board to the upper surface of the log. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be staggered.

Floor finishing

After laying the floorboard, the floor is ready for finishing, which consists in its sanding (sanding) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty made on the basis of drying oil. The last operation before painting is fixing the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.

The polished surface is painted or varnished, for example, yacht; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or material surface. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied, a paint roller and a good respirator are used for work. If you want to get not a glossy, but a matte floor surface, you can use wax or oil.