How to attach boards to iron poles. Wooden fence on metal poles: do-it-yourself fence with photo instructions. Features of fastening support products in the soil

Timber is a practical building material. The low price, low heat loss, light weight and ease of installation of a house made of timber make this material very popular. However, it is not so easy to fix the beam on the foundation, because the tree cannot be glued to concrete and not welded to metal. In this article, we will talk about how the timber is attached to various foundations, what they pay attention to and what mistakes they make.

Types of foundations for a house made of timber

Waterproofing

The lower beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be adequately protected from water and dampness, however, it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasantly smelling) substances. If it is not possible to treat the grillage or lower beam with heavy fractions of oils, then less effective substances must be used, and at least 2 layers of roofing material must be laid between the foundation or the iron / concrete grillage and the beam. This is a material that falls out during temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, and the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then the waterproofing must be laid both under it and above it. This will protect the wall from moisture and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is best

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

• timber moisture;
• climatic conditions;
• seismic activity;
• strength of the most frequent winds.

To fasten a wet (over 16%) beam to a wooden grillage, only shrinkage compensators must be used. All other attachment methods are ineffective.

After all, a beam of high and especially natural humidity gives a very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten a bar of high or natural moisture to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing a beam on threaded studs. Instead of a nut and washer, you must use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same method of fastening should be used in those regions where heavy and long rains fall in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a lower beam with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective hydroprotection and install it on the most rigid mount (ordinary and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach should be applied in regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting a rigid mount in seismically active or windy regions will cause the mount to loosen under the influence of external factors and the house will begin to sway. Neglect of shrinkage compensators when working with timber of natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the flashing crown and the foundation or grillage.

All photos from the article

During the construction process, there is often a need to fasten wooden elements to structures made of brick, concrete, aerated concrete and metal. In order for the result of the work to be reliable and durable, it is necessary to know the types of fasteners and the features of using one or another option.

Modern technologies have made it possible to develop many solutions that provide high strength and allow you to install it yourself, this article will be devoted to this issue.

What you need to know about this type of work

Before you start installation, you need to familiarize yourself with several important nuances that will ensure the highest reliability:

Important!
Sometimes you have to proceed from the existing situation when the walls are erected, but even in such cases, you can achieve an excellent result of the work.
It is necessary not to save on and choose the most reliable of them.

Overview of the main mounting options

The choice of one or another solution depends on the base to which the fastening will be carried out, the weight of the structures and their location. There are many ways, we will consider the most widespread and popular of them and will start from the material to which the wooden product will be attached.

Concrete and brick

It all depends on what elements you need to install:

• Fastening a wooden beam to a concrete wall is carried out using quick-mount dowels or special metal anchors. The work is quite simple and is carried out in the following way: through holes at a certain distance, the diameter of which must be equal to the size of the fastener, holes of a certain depth are also drilled in the wall, for reliability, the length of the element in the wall must be twice the thickness of the bar.

Important!
If the thickness of the metal elements is large or they have increased hardness, then it is recommended to pre-make holes with a drill, the diameter of which should be 2 mm smaller than the self-tapping screws used in the work.

aerated concrete

This material has its own characteristics, so the following fasteners are used for it:

• Special nylon dowels, which can have different configurations, to use them, you need to read the recommendations given by the instructions on the package, it will indicate which drill and how deep you need to make a hole and which screws to use for fixing. This is the easiest and fastest option, and the photo below shows some configurations of this type of product.

• For more massive structures, it is recommended to use metal fasteners, they have teeth that, when a self-tapping screw of the required diameter is screwed in, diverge and cut into aerated concrete, providing the highest reliability.

• If a wooden staircase is fastened to an aerated concrete floor, then additional reinforcement with a threaded stud may be required., which goes through and provides the highest reliability.

Drywall

We note right away that heavy structures cannot be attached to this material, but small elements can be fixed very securely using the following products:

• The dowel "driva" is a knot with or without a drill at the end, the first option is preferable, since there is no need to drill a hole.
  
• Dowel "butterfly" is inserted into the hole, with the help of a self-tapping screw it bursts from the inside and holds the element. Its price is low, but the work is very convenient to carry out.

Conclusion

The video in this article will tell you more information on this topic. In general, it is worth noting that following simple recommendations and using high-quality fasteners are the main components of the reliability of connections.

Under reliable protection

In order for wooden structures to retain their stability for a long time even outdoors, it is necessary to pay special attention to the structural protection of wooden and metal parts.

Rain and wind won't care!

As a rule, metal rusting and wood rotting occur imperceptibly. Both processes proceed slowly and make themselves felt only when the roof over the porch threatens to fall on the owners' heads. Not only that - rotten wood and rusted metal parts over time can become a threat to the stability of the entire building.

Any anti-corrosion protection is designed to protect the metal from moisture and oxygen. As a rule, this can be achieved by applying special coatings to steel parts. Some of them, such as chromium, enter into a chemical reaction with steel, others form a film on the metal surface, including from a special powder.

When working with wood, in addition to weatherproof impregnation, the best means of rotting is constructive protection. It basically eliminates the contact of the tree with rainwater and moisture from the soil.

Screws, as a rule, are galvanized or passivated - the latter have a characteristic yellow or dark blue color.

Blackened screws can also be used for dark types of wood, but their anti-corrosion protection is weaker.

Stainless steel screws are the best choice when constructing structures that will be outdoors.

Formatted screws(1) are used mainly for dry finishing of premises. If, when working with drywall, use galvanized screws(2), then over time they will attract moisture to themselves and become visible through a layer of paint. But with black phosphated screws this will not happen. Chrome-plated/passivated screws(3) can be recognized by the yellowish coloration. They offer some protection against corrosion, but should not be exposed to constant rain. Screws and bolts made of stainless steel(4) - twice as expensive, but guaranteed not to corrode.

The phrase "high-quality steel" still does not say anything about the resistance of steel angles or other fasteners to corrosion. It is only through special treatment or additions of other metals that steel becomes corrosion-resistant. The four most common methods of protecting steel from rust and weathering are briefly described below.

The degree of anti-corrosion protection that each of these methods provides is different, which also affects the price of products processed by one method or another. Fasteners made of high-quality stainless steel are the most expensive, but for them there will definitely not be any problems with corrosion.

The most budget option is galvanized steel parts. But if you want these parts to not rust, make sure that their coating remains intact. The same applies to powder coated products. The chrome finish is somewhat more resistant to corrosion, but its yellowish color does not always suit the design.

1. Chrome plated

In chromium plating, pre-galvanized steel parts are immersed in chromic acid, resulting in the formation of a chromium film on the products. It gives very good corrosion protection to screws and other fasteners, which remains, as after galvanizing, for approximately 40 years. Just like bronze fasteners, chrome-plated products are well suited to outdoor wood in terms of color.

2. Galvanized

During galvanizing, steel acquires a protective layer of zinc. During hot galvanizing, parts are immersed in a zinc bath heated to +450°C. During galvanization, zinc is applied to the part

in an electrolyte bath. Fasteners treated in this way retain their anti-corrosion properties for up to 40 years. True, salty air reduces this period to 25 years.

3. Stainless steel

High-grade stainless steel is understood to mean types of steel which, by adding chromium, nickel, molybdenum or titanium to them, become completely immune to corrosion under normal atmospheric exposure. At the same time, products with smooth surfaces are even more corrosion-resistant than rough ones, so some manufacturers subject their fasteners to special grinding. However, it is wrong to assume that

stainless steel is not subject to corrosion at all. Even this type of high alloy steel is susceptible to two types of corrosion: crevice and pitting. To maintain a decent appearance of stainless steel, regular washing of metal products with warm water with surfactants is required.

4. Powder coated

Before applying the powder-lacquer coating, the products are galvanized. The powder, then applied to the product, is melted in a furnace at a temperature above +200°C. After cooling, a durable anti-corrosion coating is formed on the product. In order for the metal to retain its anti-corrosion properties for a long time, the coating must not be damaged.

So the supports will stand for a long time!

Driving bases: they do not require concrete

When erecting wooden structures that will have to be in the open air, it is very important that the tree does not have direct contact with the ground and therefore does not absorb moisture. Hot-dip galvanized pole bases are the simplest and most inexpensive way to install poles stably and keep them dry. On such supports, you can install a light structure made of wood or frame technology.

When hammering the bases into the ground, special tools should be used: a plastic mallet and a plastic plug inserted inside the cartridge - it is on it that you should strike. If you beat with an ordinary hammer directly on the metal, you can damage the upper part of the product.

For optimal protection against moisture, the lower end of the support should be treated with protective azure. Holes drilled for fasteners must also be impregnated with an antiseptic. The protective coating must dry completely, only then you can proceed with the installation.

Here are two types of anchors for wooden poles that are installed on a concrete foundation and protected from moisture. The H-shaped anchor is suitable for various sized poles. The lower third of the anchor is poured with concrete. Those who find fixing with the classic U-anchor too visible can install the supports on the almost invisible anchors with a support shoe. In the middle of the support, a file is made, holes for fixing bolts are marked in the support, the support is put on the central panel of the anchor and fixed with bolts. Then the support is concreted.

The supports buried in the ground sooner or later rot. Before the support collapses, its rotten part should be replaced. To do this, the support needs to be slightly dug, cut down, the lower part removed from the ground. The resulting gap between the support and the ground can be filled by installing a metal anchor on a concrete foundation. The lower part of the support should be replaced with a bar of a suitable size, securing it on both sides with two bars. A concreted wide H-shaped anchor will provide the support with the necessary stability, it is designed for a rack with a thickness of 70-140 mm.

PROTECTION FOR SUPPORTS AND TERRACES

Top caps

To prevent rainwater from damaging the tree, special top covers are put on top of the support, sawed off at an angle or rounded off.

So the floors will last longer

Structural protection of wood is especially important when laying floors on open terraces.

It will help extend the life of the floorboards. Firstly, the floor of the terrace must be arranged so that it has a slight slope to one side - so the water will drain off the terrace by itself.

We illustrated two other simple but effective techniques with drawings.

That's right: the head of the self-tapping screw remained on the surface of the board. Stainless steel self-tapping screws can break when screwed into hardwood, so you should always pre-drill holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

Bad: the head of the screw protrudes above the board or is depressed. In the first case, you can get hurt by catching on a self-tapping screw. In the second, a depression forms around the screw and water collects.

A simple galvanized steel pommel can be bought for 140 rubles. in the construction supermarket.

Made of high-quality steel and decorated with a ball, the pommel costs almost 400 rubles.

Plastic tops are designed for children's furniture or buildings on the playground. They protect the wood from rotting and children from injury. Price: 80 rubles.

The upper part of the support without a top must either be rounded or cut at an angle so that rainwater drains quickly. In this case, the tree must be covered with a moisture-proof solution.

You can buy a pole top made of wood.

The neighbor started, it was, to put a boundary fence from a profiled sheet. Violently dissuaded on a wooden one. However, he has already purchased the material for the base of the fence: metal poles and metal logs from the profile. Now he wants to drill holes in these lags and fasten the boards with galvanized screws to them.
He doesn’t understand the arguments of reason - about the fact that it’s easier, cheaper and more reliable to buy 20 rubles each and weld blank plates instead of these logs for attaching wooden beams to the pillars, to which boards will then be nailed easily and simply.
You can understand it - where are these recklessly purchased lags to go now? But there is a suspicion that not only is drilling the pieces of iron hemorrhoids longer, but these self-tapping screws will rust in a few years and the boards will fly off ...

Or am I wrong and they do it like that - boards on pieces of iron?

If you really want to dissuade your neighbor, try to think through the situation comprehensively in advance. What will you tell your neighbor, what can he tell you in response, etc. What you told us here will be crushed to smithereens in the first minute of the conversation. Here is a possible rationale for the neighbor's position.

A fence where there are metal logs between the posts is more reliable than a fence with wooden logs, since both the metal logs themselves and their fastening to the posts are definitely more reliable (stronger).

When using metal logs, the fence frame will certainly be more durable, and for future repairs it will only be about replacing the sheathing boards for a long time, while otherwise it may be necessary to replace the wooden logs.

The screws that fasten the boards and the nails that fasten the boards will also rust. This is an argument beyond the box office.

But the fact that in this case the boards fixed with self-tapping screws loosen later than the boards nailed is a fact. The nails are smooth and will be held by the wood, and the self-tapping screws are threaded, which will go into the metal at the end. In addition, self-tapping screws, if necessary, can be tightened (twisted), but nails?

I will carefully assume that you did not try to screw the screws into the profile? Rumors about the difficulty of attaching something to the profile resp. self-tapping screws - greatly exaggerated. And if in life you had to work with a screwdriver more often than with a hammer (and now it’s all the time), then you, screwing self-tapping screws into the profile with a good screwdriver, will most likely overtake yourself holding a hammer.

A screwdriver is now available, perhaps, for everyone, and from a tool for driving nails at hand, almost certainly, there will be only a hammer. It is physically easier to work with a screwdriver than to hammer nails with a hammer.

In order to qualitatively stuff the boards on the fence with a hammer, you still need to adapt: ​​so that your efforts to nail the next board do not lead to loosening of the previous ones. With a screwdriver and metal lags, this problem simply does not exist.

Let's take a look at prices. For the lag, the neighbor most likely bought a 20x40 profile, at a price of about 70 r per meter? That is, an ordinary log 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.

Despite the fact that when using a metal profile of any length, at any distance between the posts, there will be no trimmings, since it can be welded together. When using wooden logs, we either get on scraps, or on additional. plates / corners for joining the log outside the pillars (two plates - 40 r). Or you will have to make the width between the posts a multiple of the standard lumber length of 3 meters, which may not have the best effect on the strength of a relatively heavy wooden fence, especially when assembled on wooden logs.

But back to the prices for lags. Unless, of course, wooden logs are not free. For a log of a wooden fence, a board 50x100 is good. It costs about 5,000 rubles per cubic meter of natural moisture and about 8,000 rubles per cubic meter dry. That is, the cheapest board (whether it soon turns into a "saber", "propeller" or stupidly cracks - let's leave it behind the scenes) will cost about 25 rubles per meter. Logs of the best quality will cost 40 rubles per meter.

Summing up, a metal lag in a run between two pillars 2.5 meters long will cost 175 rubles.
A wooden log 2.5 meters long will cost 62.5 + 20 = 82.5 rubles of worse quality. And the quality is better, already at 100 + 20 = 120 rubles. 20 rubles - the cost of the plate that is needed to attach the log to the pole.

With a width of the total fence between sections of 30 meters and two lags (if the length of the fence or the number of lags are different, the following calculations will need to be clarified), we get the cost of equipping the fence with metal lags 70x2x30 = 4200 rubles. The cost of equipping the same fence length with wooden logs is worse than 1500 for logs and about 500 rubles for plates: 1500 + 500 = 2000 rubles. If you take better lags, then 2400 + 500 = 3100 rubles. And we left behind the scenes the situation with the possible appearance of scraps when using wooden logs.

That is, the savings in lag material when using high-quality wooden lags instead of metal profile lags will be as much as 1,100 rubles at 30 meters!
Despite the fact that the refusal to use metal logs introduces a neighbor at a loss of 4200 rubles.

P.S. And, please, no offense, but you probably shouldn't be so biased towards your neighbor (I'm talking about "reasons of reason", etc.).
In any case, do not forget that you still have to live and live with him.

Any owner of a suburban area quite rightly tries to enclose his possessions in some way. Thus, the construction of the fence is always included in the list of priority tasks, and it is often begun to be mounted even before the construction of the main house has begun. There are a lot of design options for such fences. But despite the very wide range of materials offered for sale, both general construction and specially designed for the construction of fences, wooden fences remain one of the most popular.

Wooden fences have been used for centuries, and have proven their practicality. True, the fence supports have been and remain a weak point - wood from constant contact with the ground is quickly biodegradable, and the age of wooden poles, alas, is short-lived. But nothing in our time prevents us from finding a more solid solution. So, for example, a wooden fence on metal poles will last much longer . It is about such fences that will be discussed in this publication.