Fatsia Japanese care at home photo varieties growing from seeds cuttings. Home care for Japanese fatsia Description of the fatsia plant

Among the existing ones, meeting a representative of the Japanese archipelago is not so easy. The bright, but at the same time, such a distant species diversity of the vegetation of the island state could not conquer the domestic one and achieve popularity. However, there are exceptions. One of these is a representative of the Araliaceae family - Fatsia. In this article we will look at what this plant actually is, find out what a Fatsia flower is, and how to care for this species correctly.

Botanical description

Fatsia belongs to the typical dicotyledonous species that are part of the family Araliaceae(Araliaceae). The natural habitat of representatives is traditionally considered to be the Japanese islands, as well as Taiwan and a few regions of South Korea. Fatsia owes its name to the island of Fatsi, the name of which in translation means “eight”, which clearly reflects the division of the leaf blade of the species into 8 lobes.

The division into cotyledons in the embryo is clear: the cotyledons are located strictly opposite each other. This species is a representative of woody plants, which in nature can reach a height of about 4 meters. However, this does not happen at home, since fatsia is indoor does not exceed 1.5 meters in height.

The leaf blade does not reach more than 40 cm in diameter, and the leaves themselves are located on the trunk in an alternate or spiral sequence and have a bright green tint. The leaves have a pointed shape closer to the top and are divided, on average, into 8 lobes, each 5-10 cm wide.

Fatsia is covered with flowers in November. During this period, the trunk becomes overgrown with small and rather unremarkable flowers, the color of which ranges from creamy-white to yellow-green, and the average diameter is about 3 cm. The bud of the plant is egg-shaped and is divided into 5 petals.

Flowers are collected in an umbellate inflorescence. After flowering, in most cases, fatsia produces a fruit about 5 mm in size, which is classified as a berry unsuitable for consumption.

Species

Among the numerous wild and cultivated species of Araliaceae, not many have achieved real popularity. The exotic and uncharacteristic appearance of typical representatives of Asian flora for our latitude has become a real obstacle to the popularization of Fatsia among domestic lovers of indoor plants.

However, there are species that are directly associated with domestic Araliaceae. These are, first of all, Fatsia Japonica and Fatshedera Liese, which we will discuss in more detail later.

Japanese

Fatsia Japonica is a plant that is a typical representative of the genus. This species has been actively used in home greenhouses for the last 200 years. The leaves of Japanese Fatsia are similar in appearance to chestnut ones. Japan is considered the natural habitat of the plant.

Did you know?Fatsia Japonica is a representative of monotypic plants. This means that in the generic nomenclature of this flower there is only one species.

This is the plant that is offered to the buyer in the store, since caring for the flower is not difficult. In addition, its unique and recognizable appearance clearly distinguishes this plant from a large number of indoor species. Today, breeders have identified several varieties of fatsia:

1. Argentei marginatis- graceful, the main distinguishing feature of which is the white border of the leaves.
2. Aurea marginatis- a domestic shrub whose leaves have a noticeable yellow border.
3. Moseri- one of the most compact plants, which is distinguished by a slight branching of the stem and a bright green tint of the leaves.

Important!The juice of Fatsia Japonica is a strong allergen, so people with hypersensitive skin should consult a doctor before adding this plant to their home, and caring for Fatsia should be done using personal protective equipment.

Fatshedera Liese

Fatshedera Lise is a hybrid species that first saw the light of day in France in 1912. The hybrid was bred by the Liese brothers based on the common Fatsia Japonica and common ivy. As a result of intergeneric crossing, breeders managed to obtain a unique species, which in its structure resembles ivy, decorated with leaves and flowers that are unique from an aesthetic point of view.

Just a few years after Fatsheder's selection, Lise became one of the most popular balcony plants. The bred climbing ivy has become an ideal plant for decorating balconies and terraces, and has also become the best backdrop for creating bright flowering compositions indoors.

We create conditions for growing

Fatsia is a species that is unpretentious to environmental conditions: in order to create a favorable environment for the plant, a lot of work is not required. In addition, in warm climates, this flower can be the best solution for creating an interesting garden. However, to properly grow Fatsia, you need to know some important features, which we will talk about next.

Lighting

Fatsia is a flower that perfectly tolerates both direct sunlight and twilight, but to create the most beautiful, recognizable leaf pattern, it is necessary to keep the plant in sufficient light. Window sills on the western or eastern side are perfect for this.

Fatsia will also grow on a window in the northern part of the house without any problems, but the development of the plant will take a noticeably longer time. In the warm season, sunbathing in the fresh air of a balcony or terrace will be beneficial for fatsia.

Humidity and temperature

Plant loves water even more than most representatives of the humid tropics. Therefore, it must be sprayed or wiped with a damp cloth every day, especially at high temperatures. In hot summers, the plant is recommended to have regular showers. But in winter, the amount of water used is reduced several times; this is especially important at relatively low air temperatures.

All fatsias need air temperatures similar to their natural habitat. From spring to early autumn it should be between +17 and +22°C. In colder autumn periods, fatsia feels great even at average room temperature, but the best conditions for the flower will be an air temperature slightly above +10°C.

For species with a variegated leaf pattern, the temperature should not fall below +16°C.

Soil in a pot

They love Araliaceae. Also, representatives of the family grow well in hydroponics, but the main rule is high breathability. In order to grow a healthy plant, The soil is made up of the following components:

• in a ratio of 2:1:1:1, the pot should contain turf soil, sand, and substrate;
• simple soil, peat substrate, humus and sand should be present exclusively in equal parts;
• turf soil, earth and sand should be in proportions of 4:2:1.

Planting and propagation of fatsia

Fatsia can be grown at home without problems thanks to all existing types of propagation. You can get a young and healthy evergreen plant by planting seeds, cuttings or layering. Let's look at each of the examples in more detail.

From seeds

Grow fatsia from seeds anyone can do it at home. Seeds are sown directly into soil prepared in advance. Seed material is sown to a depth of no more than 10 mm. In this case, it is important to maintain an optimal air temperature of about +18°C or higher until the shoots fully emerge.

After the first two leaves appear on the sprout, the seedlings are ready to be transplanted into a separate pot. The sprouts are planted strictly one at a time per pot, after which the container is placed in a bright and warm place, but without direct sunlight.

From cuttings

Fatsia cuttings occur using young shoots. For this in spring, material for cuttings is cut from the top of the flower. The finished cutting is planted in a special substrate based on sand and peat, after which the container must be wrapped in a plastic bag to create greenhouse conditions.

If the air temperature is around +20-26°C, the cuttings will take root within a week. After rooting, the planting material is ready for planting in individual pots.

Important!When cuttings, the plant urgently needs fresh air: for this it is recommended to ventilate inside a plastic bag in the morning and evening.

From layerings

When the aesthetics of a flower are poor, you can rejuvenate the flower by planting air layering. In the spring, a shallow hole is made on the fatsia trunk, which is wrapped with a pre-soaked hole in a special stimulating solution.

After this, the constructed structure is wrapped in a plastic bag or. By constantly maintaining high humidity, the moss already aerial roots appear after six months. After another 2 months, the top with roots is ready for cutting and planting in a separate pot.

Proper care

The main procedures are proper watering, loosening the soil, protection from excessive direct sunlight, etc.

Watering and spraying

In summer, Fatsia must be watered as soon as the soil begins to dry out. In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be gradually reduced to a minimum, but it is important to ensure that the substrate in the pot remains moist at all times.

Lack of moisture has a depressing effect on the plant. If you dry out the soil at least once, you will end up with a flower with drooping leaves, which will be almost impossible to lift. It is also important to remember that overwatering can harm the plant even more than drying out. It is vitally important for this plant organism to be able to correctly determine the golden mean of watering.

Fertilizer

Room fatsia should happen weekly. To do this, use and, alternating them. The plant needs additional nutrients most in autumn, spring and summer. In the winter, it is better to refuse feeding, but in the summer, when the air temperatures are excessively high, it is recommended to feed with nutrients no more than once a month.

Fatsia is a wonderful type of ivy that can be easily grown indoors; this plant is quite picky, which is why it is very popular among gardeners. Fatsia will be a wonderful decoration in any room where there is support for its weaving; most often, ivy is placed on chests of drawers, cabinets or special stands for weaving plants.

In today's article we will look at the necessary conditions that Fatsia needs for active and healthy growth, namely the features of care, cultivation and cultivation.

Choosing a suitable location

Different types of fatsia require different amounts of sunlight, so for variegated representatives you should find a well-lit place in the apartment, without direct sunlight, but with a sufficient amount of diffused light. And for species with the simplest green leaves, partial shade is ideal.

In summer, it is better to take Fatsia out onto the balcony or terrace; fresh air helps this plant grow more actively and look better. If it is not possible to take the flower out into the open air, then you should ventilate the room where the plant lives more often.

Optimal watering of fatsia

Fatsia should be watered regularly, but in moderation; it equally does not tolerate overdrying of the earthen clod and excess moisture in the soil. Ideally, the plant should be watered when the top of the soil has just dried out a little. For irrigation, use exclusively soft, settled water at room temperature. In winter, the amount of water for irrigation should be halved.

It is also very useful to regularly spray the leaves of indoor ivy and wipe them with a damp cloth to remove dust, then the appearance of the flower will be even more colorful and impressive.

Temperature and humidity

The optimal temperature in the apartment can fluctuate between +19-+25 degrees, fatsia does not tolerate summer heat quite well, but if it happens that the temperature in the room where this plant grows is above +26, you should increase the amount of water for watering twice a day , morning and evening, spray the plant with a spray bottle.

This flower overwinters in cooler conditions of +16-+18 degrees, then watering should be minimal, and it is better to cancel any spraying.

If the apartment's batteries are running at full capacity and there is no talk of a “cool winter,” then the plant should be cared for in the same way as in the summer.

It is better to maintain a high humidity level; dry air has a rather negative effect on the appearance of this plant.

Necessary fertilizers

Fatsia is fertilized exclusively during the period of active growth, which occurs from March to October. At this time, every two weeks the flower should be fed with liquid mineral fertilizers or organic, or even better, alternate these two types.

After each feeding, be sure to water the plant abundantly. But in winter, it is better to give the flower a chance to rest and stop applying any fertilizers; during this period, the plant rests and gains strength in order to begin to grow actively again in the spring.

Fatsia transplant

Fatsia is replanted relatively infrequently; it is enough to update the soil in the flowerpot once every three years. This is best done at the end of winter or in the first months of spring; when replanting, you need to purchase a new pot, twice as large as the previous one, and a fresh soil mixture, which should consist of turf and leaf soil, peat and sand. The planting container must have a hole to drain excess water.

The first layer in the pot is the drainage layer; as a rule, it occupies a quarter of the container. When replanting, you should completely shake off the old soil from the roots and check the roots for various rots and defects; if any, they should be removed before replanting into a new container.

Fatsia propagation at home

At home, gardeners most often propagate Fatsia by cuttings or seeds. In the first case, the cut cuttings are rooted in a container with peat in greenhouse conditions; for this, the plant should be provided with high humidity and a temperature of +23-+27 degrees. Watering should be moderate but regular, with soft, settled water.

The seed method is a little more complicated than propagation by cuttings, but if you have good seeds and a home greenhouse, it is quite simple to carry out. The seeds are initially placed in a container with water overnight, after which they swell a little, then they are laid out in containers with peat and sprinkled with earth on top. The container with the seeds should be placed in greenhouse conditions; in a month you will be able to see the first shoots

Fatsia is one of the most beautiful indoor plants that will fit perfectly into the design of any interior. It will look harmonious in large rooms: living rooms, halls, lobbies. This material describes how to care for this oriental beauty.

General characteristics of fatsia

This is a woody plant with large leaves. Their width can sometimes reach 40 cm. The Fatsia leaf is very original and beautiful due to its shape in the form of an open five, and has a glossy, bright green color. The height of this representative of the flora in natural conditions is about 4 meters. Indoor flowers require a lot of free space, free arrangement, and only if these conditions are met can they delight you with a chic crown.

The plant belongs to the Araliaceae family and has a single pure species called Japanese fatsia, as well as several varieties (see their names and photos at the end of the article).

Lighting and location

• The green pet loves bright, (not sunny), cool places with a regular supply of fresh air. The place should be slightly shaded, with diffused light;
• An excellent location for the bush is the western or eastern side of the house;
• The variegated Japanese beauty needs sun, and varieties with leaves of the same shade stand well in the shade;

• In summer, an indoor flower can be placed outside, avoiding direct sunlight.

Humidity and watering

• In hot weather, the bush should be watered generously with clean, cool water. By autumn, the amount of water decreases;
• In winter, the “green resident” is watered less often and kept cool;
• When several hours have passed after moistening the soil, remove excess liquid from the pan, otherwise the roots of the bush will rot;
• If the soil dries out, the southern plant may drop its leaves, and it will be extremely difficult to raise them again. For this purpose, special spacers are made and the leaves are tied horizontally;
• Caring for fatsia at home involves maintaining high air humidity in your home. Spray the leaves with a spray bottle, if possible, carry out wet cleaning daily, wipe the leaves with a napkin.

P.S. We wrote about how to humidify the air in a room.

Optimal temperature for a flower

Indoors, the plant is grown at an optimal temperature of 20-22 degrees (in spring and summer). In winter, coolness and drafts should not be allowed, and the air is cooled to 10-16 degrees.

Fertilizers and soil requirements

• The luxurious Japanese plant is fertilized once every 10-15 days with mineral and organic fertilizers. Feed in the spring, summer, autumn seasons (except winter);
• The soil is turf and leaf soil, to which sand, humus and peat are added (1:1:1). A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the pot.

Replanting and pruning indoor flowers

Caring for fatsia is not difficult, because it easily tolerates formative pruning for a more luxuriant crown. When pruning a young “southerner”, the top is pinched off. After some time, foliage will appear on the trunk, and new young shoots will appear near the base, which will later serve as cuttings for transplants.

House shrubs are replanted every few years. The new container should be larger than the old one, because the tree-like plant can please you with young trunks. Fatsia is replanted as follows: one third of the pot is filled with broken shards and expanded clay, and soil mixture is added to the rest.

Fatsia cuttings

• Propagation by cuttings is carried out in the spring. Rooting at a temperature of 24-26 degrees in moist soil with diffused light occurs very quickly;
• Cuttings 10 cm tall should acquire a certain number of buds that are ready to grow;

• Cover them with a glass jar or film, and plant them in the ground a month after rooting. With this method, voluminous but small shrubs are formed.

How to propagate Fatsia by layering

When a flower is properly cared for, its trunk is abundantly covered with foliage. If it becomes bare, the plant is rejuvenated using layering:

• In the spring season, the bark on the trunk covering must be cut;
• Wrap the incision with wet moss, which is soaked in a solution with fertilizers or in a phytohormone;
• Wrap with film;

• Make sure that the moss is always damp;
• After a certain time, the first root will appear at the incision site;
• After this, after 2 months, cut off the top with roots and plant in a separate container;
• The top must be cut off slightly below the emerging roots.

Propagation by seeds

Growing fatsia from seeds is a simple process:

• Place fresh seeds in the soil 10 mm deep. For these purposes, we will take small boxes;
• Soil for seeds: leaf soil, sand and turf (1:1:1);
• We maintain the temperature regime of the ground and surrounding airspace at a temperature of 18 degrees;

• After germination, seedlings are transplanted one at a time into separate pots. Soil for sprouts: turf, humus, sand (2:1:1);
• Place the pots in a bright place.

Pests and diseases of indoor fatsia

Pests that can damage a home flower: whitefly, aphids, scale insects, spider mites.

• When they appear, treat the stem covering and leaves by spraying with fungicides - 3 times, take a break for a few minutes. The best effective way is to use Actellik;
• A simple soap solution, sprayed several times a day, will also help.

Ailments of the southern pet:

• Sunburn (a representative of the flora is in direct sunlight): its leaves become wrinkled. Treatment: it is necessary to increase air humidity, make shade for the shrub;
• Lack of moisture: leaves break and dry out. Treatment: abundant watering and “shower” every day in the summer;
• Excess moisture: drooping and soft foliage. How to help: do not water for several days, remove the liquid from the pan;
• Gray rot (the flower is kept in a damp, cold place): the stem rots and turns brown. Treatment: place in a more ventilated area, remove damaged parts.

Plant toxicity

This Japanese beauty is poisonous. Its leaves contain toxic substances that adversely affect the nervous system. Therefore, everyone, and especially children, need to handle the plant with extreme caution. After contact with it, you should wash your hands thoroughly with soap.

Types of fatsia

• Fatsia Lizei (Lizei) - grows in the form of a bush, the leaves cover the stems in a thick layer. The leafy, leathery plate is divided into 4-5 “blades” of a dark emerald hue. The “green resident” is winding and needs support;

• Fatsia Samurai - very similar to Japonica, has leaf blades 30 cm in diameter, in the shape of “lobes” with a glossy surface. The height barely reaches 1.5 meters. It blooms with fragrant, fragrant flowers that have a whitish or greenish tint. The flowers are “umbrellas”, and the fruits are small dark blue berries;

• Fatsia imperia has overly large, shiny glossy leaves that form a dense crown of a tree in the shape of a ball with a diameter of up to 40 cm. The height is measured at 1.5 meters and it rarely blooms;
• Fatsia japonica is another name for the Aralia fatsia flower. It has the shape of a tree with a slightly branched trunk and light brownish bark. The shape of the leaves is round, divided into “lobes - fingers”; parts of the leaves have a serrated edge and a broadly lanceolate shape.

In floriculture, the most popular garden forms of Fatsia japonica are:

• Miseri is a small compact plant with rich green leaves;
• Aureimarginalis – the veins on the leaves have a yellowish tint;
• Fatsia variegata (Variegata) - the edges of the leaf blades of this shrub are painted milky or white.

You can buy fatsia in online flower stores. Its price depends on the height of the specimen and the diameter of the pot. For example, the cost of a plant 50 cm high in a pot with a diameter of 17 cm will be approximately 750 rubles.

Video: Fatsia japonica

A plant known in our country under the names “house chestnut” and “Japanese chestnut”, fatsia is one of the most unpretentious and persistent crops. Spectacular, with large palmate leaves, this beauty captivates with its density, splendor of the crown, and impressive size. But you shouldn’t be afraid of the massiveness of fatsias: despite all their volume, they have a harmonizing effect even in the smallest rooms. This is one of the most favorite plants of interior designers, but Fatsia’s talents are not limited to aesthetic qualities alone. Shade-tolerant, persistent and undemanding plants are suitable even for inexperienced gardeners.

Luxurious leaves of Japanese chestnuts

Fatsia received all her “folk” nicknames quite deservedly. The foliage of this plant really most resembles the familiar chestnuts, only in a smaller copy, and with more beautiful textures. Fatsia came to us from distant Japan. It can safely be considered one of the most spectacular large-leaved shrubs among indoor crops. Fast growth and a luxurious crown are its main decorative advantages.

This representative of the Araliaceae family has a rather modest varietal and species palette. Only grown as an ornamental crop fatsia japonica (fatsia japonica) and its individual hybrids, forms and varieties.

Fatsia (Fatsia) are decorative deciduous evergreen shrubs and trees. Fatsias form very beautiful, neat-looking, albeit massive crowns. These naturally occurring tree crops in indoor format develop as low-branching shrubs with a maximum height of 2 meters, which, with proper care, are usually limited to a meter “format”. Fatsia has very thin shoots, which are not always able to cope with the mass of large leaves and often require additional support (this disadvantage is especially evident in variegated varieties). Visual volume and splendor are perfectly offset by the beauty of large foliage and a patterned effect that balances the dimensions and prevents the fatsia from negatively affecting the perception of the rooms. Fatsia leaves are its main pride. They sit on long petioles, palmately divided, large, up to 30 cm in diameter. A round or heart-shaped compound leaf contains 5 or 9 leathery lobes. The color of Fatsia leaves is by no means limited to an attractive and neutral dark green. The plant has numerous varieties and forms with borders and variegated spots. But all fatsias, without exception, are characterized by a glossy sheen and a beautiful texture of leathery foliage.

Fatsia, despite the ability to bloom in indoor culture, is a purely decorative deciduous plant. Many people call the flowering of Fatsia unremarkable, only spoiling the attractiveness of the bushes (the inflorescences are often removed from the plant on their own so that they do not even bloom). But since they do not affect the greenery, do not rush to do this. Small, inconspicuous greenish or white flowers are collected in miniature umbrellas of inflorescences, which, against the background of shiny large leaves, seem lacy and airy, a little reminiscent of dandelions. If you leave them on the plant, you can also admire the dark blue small berries, similar to black rowan, in which the seeds do not always ripen (and even if they ripen, they will quickly lose their germination capacity). There is no need to prepare fatsia for flowering, and it will not spoil the plant and will give it elegance.

Varieties and forms of fatsia

The best decorative forms and varieties of Japanese fatsia include:

• variety "Spider's Web" with silvery-gray leaves that from a distance seem to be carved from luxurious velvet;
• "Variegata" with an almost white-cream border on the leaves that unevenly creeps onto the plate;
• "Moseri" with an unusual, denser and bushier bush and a classic dark green color;
• "Aureimarginatis" - a form with an uneven bright yellow border;
• "Argenteimarginatis", decorated with an elegant white border that appears silver from a distance

Often, fatsia varieties include Fatshederu Litse (fatshedera Lizei) – a hybrid of fatsia and ivy. But today this plant is only being studied and it is more appropriate to consider it as a separate species.

Fatsia is a favorite among designers today. Unlike most indoor plants, it can grow equally effectively in different locations in the back of rooms; there is no need to display it only on window sills and near windows. This fashionable beauty is considered one of the cultures that are most appropriate to be introduced into modern interiors. But fatsia will not be lost in any style, equally organically creating the effect of “drowning in greenery”, and playing the role of an accent or space divider, feeling good at any height and in combination with any furniture. The beauty and effectiveness of the plant does not prevent it from remaining one of the best persistent indoor giants that any gardener can grow. Japanese chestnuts adapt well to different conditions, grow quickly, have almost no pronounced dormant period, and creating a cool winter is not at all necessary, although it is desirable. The only difficulty in growing fatsias is that they do not like drought and do not forgive long periods of lack of watering. But with modest regular care, they will surprise you with their unpretentiousness.

Fatsia is a crop considered one of the most poisonous indoor plants. When working with shrubs, especially during transplantation, it is necessary to fully protect the skin from contact with greenery and roots.

Fatsia care at home

Lighting for fatsias

The ability of this culture to easily adapt to a wide variety of locations is, without exaggeration, the main advantage of fatsia over its competitors. Fatsias are equally beautiful in places with very different light levels, maintaining not only the attractive color of the leaves, but also the fast pace. True, the adaptability of Fatsia is partially lost in varietal varieties: the more variegated the leaves and the lighter the spots on them, the more light-loving the Fatsia is. For fatsias, all locations from diffuse bright lighting to any partial shade are considered comfortable. The plant is not afraid of direct sunlight, they do not leave burns, but in summer it is better to protect fatsias from the midday rays (in such a location, fatsias suffer from the heat and are usually in a depressed state). When grown in the shade, fatsias will pleasantly surprise you with the same decorative effect and large leaf sizes, but growth will slow down compared to a more illuminated place. Usually large, old plants that have reached significant size are placed in the shade and you want to contain them and maintain stable attractiveness. When choosing a place for fatsia, focus only on the decorative effect and the desired role in the interior: no matter what place you choose, it will adapt and will not suffer.

For fatsia, it is desirable to provide stable lighting throughout the year. The plant, having adapted to a certain level of lighting, will develop better if you compensate for seasonal characteristics in the cold season and move the fatsia to more illuminated places. Be sure to compensate for the reduction in light for those fatsias that overwinter not in cool, but in normal room conditions: for them it is necessary not only to slightly increase the illumination, but to ensure a location on a southern windowsill or appropriate additional lighting. Fatsias tolerate artificial lighting well.

Comfortable temperature conditions

Fatsias thrive in the same conditions as their owners - in the standard room temperature range. This plant loves stable heat from 18 to 23 degrees. This temperature range is most comfortable from early spring to late autumn. If the fatsia is in hotter conditions, it will not be seriously affected, especially if the frequency of watering is slightly adjusted accordingly.

And during the relative dormancy phase, during winter, these plants are best kept cool, at temperatures from 10 to 15 degrees. In variegated varieties, temperatures do not drop so much, only to 16-18 degrees (the temperature should not drop below 16 degrees Celsius for variegated fatsias). But cool wintering is not vital for Fatsia. Plants adapt well to higher temperatures, provided they are provided with the brightest possible lighting in winter, moved to artificial lighting or to a southern windowsill.

Fatsias love fresh air very much. They are not very sensitive to drafts, especially in summer. After stable warm weather has established itself, no earlier than June, fatsias can be taken out into the fresh air - onto the balcony, terrace and even into the garden. True, outdoor plants should be protected from direct sunlight (but fatsias will not be afraid of drafts).

Watering and air humidity

Without exaggeration, watering is the most difficult component of fatsia care. The thing is that fatsia leaves do not recover after wilting. If you allow the earthen ball to dry out completely, the leaves will droop and droop and no additional watering will help, even if the drying lasted a short period of time. True, the leaves will not fall off: you will need to put supports under them to make the plant look attractive. Fatsias react differently to waterlogging and dampness - the leaves first become soft, gradually turn yellow and fall off. So, in order to avoid problems with this plant, you should try to provide fatsia with such systematic care that will maintain stable soil moisture. Controlling the frequency of watering is very simple: between procedures, let only the top centimeters of soil dry out.

The winter watering regime is much simpler. From mid-autumn, procedures should be gradually reduced, for fatsias overwintering in the cool, making them more and more rare and keeping the soil slightly moist, and for plants remaining in the warmth, leaving the frequency of watering the same, but reducing the amount of water and lowering the soil moisture by approximately half (it should also dry out partially middle layer of soil).

Fatsias are not so demanding of air humidity, but like all decorative deciduous crops with fairly large and durable leaves, they do not respond too well to dry conditions. In the absence of measures to compensate for too hot temperatures or central heating systems, the leaves quickly lose their attractiveness, their tips dry out, and the plant loses its fresh appearance. It is best to keep fatsias at medium or humidity levels of 50%. It is not necessary to install trays with a humidifier or special devices for fatsias. These beauties are quite content with simple spraying with soft water at room temperature, which is carried out daily or every 2 days during active development. The winter spraying regime depends on the air temperature: when it is cool, they are stopped, when wintering in room conditions they are only reduced. In addition to spraying, fatsias will also need to remove dust from the leaves, which must be done with a soft sponge weekly or more often and showered during the summer to keep the greenery clean.

Feeding for fatsia

Japanese chestnuts require a standard approach to fertilization. Fatsias need fertilizing only from the beginning of spring until the end of September, when the plant develops quickly and actively. The optimal frequency of procedures for fatsias is considered to be 1 feeding every 10 days with a standard dose in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. In winter, fertilizing cannot be carried out even when kept at room temperatures.

Fertilizers for decorative deciduous crops with a high nitrogen content are better suited for fatsia.

Transplantation, containers and substrate

For fatsias, it is necessary to select very loose, light soils. Nutrient substrates with good water permeability can even be replaced with hydroponics. Of the soil mixtures for fatsias, ready-made universal substrates or soil based on a mixture of humus, peat and sand with twice the dose of turf soil are better suited.

Plants are replanted based on the rate of growth and development. Young fatsias, which actively grow not only leaves, but also rhizomes, are replanted annually. But adult bushes can be replanted with a frequency of 2-3 years, but every year replacing the top layer of soil with fresh one. The best time for the procedure is the beginning of spring.

There is nothing complicated about transplanting fatsias. The earthen ball around the roots is not destroyed, completely preserved even in the lower part. The plants are only transferred to new containers, adding fresh substrate and removing the contaminated top layer of soil. The key to replanting is to ensure proper drainage: for fatsia it is better to use coarse materials and allocate at least 1/3 of the height of the pot to the drainage layer.

Containers for young fatsias are increased by 2-3 sizes, for adults they are changed slightly. For this culture, deep, but not very wide pots are used, allowing for high drainage without reducing the space for growth.

Diseases and pests

Fatsias are fairly resilient indoor plants that, if properly cared for, will not cause any trouble. But if the humidity regime is disturbed or excessive carelessness is allowed, they can suffer from gray rot and the active spread of pests - scale insects, aphids, spider mites, thrips and whiteflies. For fatsias, it is best to try to cope with the problem using biological methods - washing the plant with a soapy solution, mechanically removing insects, and only after failure, start spraying with insecticides. When rot spreads, corrective care usually helps, or in extreme cases, an emergency transplant.

Common problems in growing fatsias:

• dry tips of leaves with low substrate humidity;
• yellowing and softening of foliage due to dampness;
• leaf falling due to waterlogging or cold;
• brittle, wrinkled leaves in dry air.

Reproduction of fatsias

This is one of the easiest large-leaved crops to propagate. Both vegetative methods and the seed method are suitable for fatsia.

It is not easy to obtain fatsia from seeds. Good germination is characteristic only of very fresh seeds, and it is not easy to collect them yourself. Fatsia seeds are sown in a moistened nutrient substrate, covering 1 cm of sifted soil on top. Germinate seeds in warmth and in bright light under film or glass. As soon as the first pair of full-fledged leaves appears on young plants, they are picked into small individual pots and grown according to the same principles as adult plants.

Fatsia japonica seedlings. © Dan Kristiansen

Of the vegetative methods, it is easiest to use apical cuttings. They are cut only in the spring, before or after transplantation, at the very beginning of the active growth stage, choosing shoots with slightly swollen or swollen buds. For rooting, cuttings will need treatment with growth accelerators, hot temperatures, from 25 degrees Celsius, and greenhouse conditions - covered with a cap or film. The cuttings are buried to a depth of 2 cm in a mixture of sand and peat. It is better to plant plants in individual small pots immediately after rooting. It is from the cuttings that the most densely leafed and low fatsias are obtained.

Air layering is an excellent “backup” option. But you can only get them if for some reason the leaves of the fatsias have fallen off or the shoots have become bare and stretched out. Between the nodes, the trunk is cut vertically, wrapping the cut with damp moss or substrate (it is better to water them with a growth accelerator solution) and securing it to the stem using foil or other materials. Rooting will take several months, but fatsias obtained by this method will begin to grow faster after planting.

Hello dear readers. Would you like to get a gorgeous green bush with carved leaves similar to maple, and one that also grows quickly with good care? It seems to me most likely yes. This plant is called Fatsia. Care and propagation at home does not bother even beginners. This piece can decorate any room, office, terrace or even shop window. The only requirement of Japanese fatsia is space.

Features of cultivation.

Fatsia is a light-loving plant, but can tolerate light partial shade. It is resistant to dry air and temperature fluctuations. But it develops better with free placement of plants, prefers fresh air, coolness, and bright diffused light. But in general it is hardy and adapts to any conditions. In winter, it is better to place it in a bright, cool room with a temperature (+6... +10C), reduce watering and spraying and control the humidity of the earthen clod.

Fatsia transplant.

Young plants need to be replanted annually in the spring, by transferring them to another pot 1/3 larger than the previous one.

More mature and large plants need to be transshipped once every 2-3 years. But if it is impossible to replant, then you need to change the top layer of soil in the pot.
The soil is made from the following earth mixture: leaf soil, turf and sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 0.5.
It is worth noting that fatsia grows well in hydroponics.

Watering and fertilizers.

Watering should be careful from spring to autumn, abundant, and moderate in winter. It is very important not to allow the earthen clod to dry out once, as this will cause the foliage to droop to the bottom.

With a lack of moisture, the tips of the leaves dry out, thereby the plant loses its decorative appearance. It is very important to regularly spray the leaves with soft water at room temperature and wash or wipe the leaves with a damp sponge from time to time.

And from waterlogging of the soil, the leaves become limp, soft, then turn yellow and fall off.
We use fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants at intervals of 1 time every 2 weeks. In winter, we do not fertilize, as dormancy sets in during this period.

Fatsia from seeds.

It is advisable to use seeds taken from plants in their natural habitat.
Sow seeds in boxes, bowls, but best of all in cassettes with prepared soil from turf soil, sand and leaf soil, all in equal proportions. The sowing depth is about a centimeter.

The germination temperature is 18-20 degrees C, so it is necessary to use a mini greenhouse. After seed germination, it is necessary to regularly ventilate the seedlings and keep them in a bright and warm room. And when the seedlings grow up, we transplant them into separate pots and grow them as an adult plant, but be sure to provide a bright place.

Cuttings.

The easiest and fastest way to propagate Fatsia is by apical cuttings and air layering. Cuttings usually take root quickly in the spring, in a moist substrate, but be sure to maintain high air humidity. Just cover the cutting with a glass jar or glass. You can also put the pot with the cutting in a transparent plastic bag and tie it on top.

Rejuvenation.

And propagation by air layering is used only in cases where for some reason the plant trunk is exposed. Then you need to use a sharp, clean knife to make small cuts on the bare stem under the leaves. Treat them (cuts) with any phytohormones (“Heteroauxin” or “Kornevin” according to the instructions) and cover them with damp moss and wrap them with cling film. Always monitor the moisture content of the moss; it should always be moist.

Within 2 months, roots will form, and when they grow and are visible through the film, then it will be possible to cut the trunk below the roots and transplant it into a separate pot.
And the stump itself can be cut off and continued to be watered, and wait for new growth to grow from it.

Fatsia diseases and pests.

If not cared for properly, the plant can be affected by diseases and pests. The most common are aphids, mites, whiteflies, and gray mold.
Typically, gray mold affects overwatered plants that have too much moisture. This disease affects almost all parts of the plant, and you can get rid of it only by removing all the affected parts, drying the earthen ball and increasing air circulation in the room. And also carry out treatments with any high-quality drug against fungal infections (for example, “Maxim” or “Fundozol”).

But whiteflies, aphids, and mites are afraid of chemicals - this could be Actellik, Fitover, or Neoron. We use it 1-2 times a week for a month. But first you need to wash all parts of the plant with soapy water and change the top layer of soil. Because whitefly larvae are located precisely in the upper layer of moist soil, and therefore it is difficult to get rid of them.

And finally, I suggest watching a video about the care and reproduction of Fatsia.