Methods for filing roof overhangs. How to make a roof lining - what material to use, how to properly finish the eaves. Lining and other types of wood

In order to properly equip the roof of a house, you need to go through several sequential steps, including the starting ones - to create the frame and the final ones - to design it. The latter include the installation of weirs, snow clearers and hemming of projections, which directly protect the façade of the building from destruction.

Purpose of roof lining

The procedure itself is necessary to protect the roofing elements from destruction and for the beauty of the building.

Roof lining allows you to:

give the external appearance of the structure a completed look;
regulate the thermal insulation level in the premises of the building;
prevent the regular influence of natural precipitation on the condition of the external elements of the building;
regulate the temperature in the rooms.

Experts advise filing all overhangs, regardless of their size, angle of inclination and design features of the roof.

DIY cornice finishing

Sheathing the roof of a house is not difficult at all. This procedure is quite accessible to every home owner, but requires certain knowledge and skills. First of all, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work on decorating the roof frame with your own hands.

Actions are classified into:

preparatory;
protective coatings for protrusions.

Preliminary actions

Starting events are long-term, consisting of a series of tasks:

Focus on material, hemming technology, ventilation.
Organization of rafters, walls, tools, etc.

What material to choose - how to hem the roof from below

For filing overhangs, it is better to prefer the same roofing decking. According to the quality and size of the products, the cost of hemming activities is calculated. The strength and service life of the material are also important.

Lining

The use of lumber for lining roof overhangs with clapboard is a fairly common procedure and quite in demand. This material is used to hem wooden ledges of buildings and more.

When choosing a lining it is important:

Quality of wood products. That is, defects on the boards (cracks, knots, chips, etc.) are unacceptable. Craftsmen recommend using “Extra-lining”, which during the production process undergoes thorough screening for defects and is dried according to a unique technology.
Humidity, which should vary between 30 and 40%. This indicator is measured using a conventional moisture meter.

Since the wood will be used outdoors, it needs to be kept outside for a month to achieve the optimal level of humidity and prevent deformation of the bars.

The quality of lumber depends on the type of tree. It has been tested in practice that it is better to use spruce, larch, and pine as durable and economical species that are resistant to the process of decay.
Board dimensions. The best option is lumber with a thickness of 15 mm and above, and a length that is adjustable by the overhang.

It is worth noting that, due to the need to use wooden planks with a length of 5 to 25 cm, it is better to immediately buy short products of the appropriate sizes. This way you can save a lot of money when lining the roof eaves with clapboard.

Profiled sheet

If there are special requirements for the strength characteristics of the structure, then it is better to use sheet profile material, for example, corrugated sheets of steel, or treated with zinc or polymers.

When choosing profiled sheets, you must not forget about:

The condition of the surface, which should not be rough, without scratches, chips or dents.
Wave height that provides the necessary ventilation. A slight difference is quite enough for this purpose. When finishing the roof overhang, large waves do not protect against the regular entry of rain, snow, and hail into the interior and contribute to the destruction of the frame.
Color scheme. The tones of all professional sheets should not differ from each other.
Leaf length. This parameter can reach 6 m, so choosing the required size will not be difficult. It is better to install a larger profiled sheet, equal to the length of the overhang span, and not taken from small panels.
Ease of construction. The optimal solution is to line the roof with corrugated sheets 0.55-0.8 mm thick. If this value is greater, the sheets will be heavier, which is completely inconvenient during installation. Accordingly, the load on the frame components of the roof will increase.

It is worth noting that the corrugated sheets will have to be cut into sheets with your own hands, and this will require a special device and additional time.

OSB and plywood

This is the most affordable type of lumber from a financial point of view, and also has excellent strength characteristics. Therefore, OSB and plywood are in great demand for roofing work.

If you chose this representative of particle board lumber for lining your roof with your own hands, then it is worth noting that during its production the layers of plywood are connected with formaldehyde glue, and subsequently the harmful compounds simply evaporate.

When choosing a material, you should pay attention to:

Type of wood. It is better to prefer products from coniferous forests, because... it is more resistant to any weather surprises. Consumers are especially pleased with its increased moisture resistance.
Material thickness. When arranging the roof, sheets whose thickness varies from 9 to 10 mm are more in demand. Only these dimensions make the structure strong and reliable.
Condition of the slabs, namely, the absence of chips, delaminations, shape deformations and other material defects.
Plywood brand. Experts consider FSF to be the best option for installation in the fresh air.

Like corrugated sheeting, you will have to cut plywood yourself, which is not at all difficult.

Soffits

This is a kind of specific category of materials, including a set of products from: PVC, steel, copper and even wood. Such roof overhang lining will look attractive and will last a long time. Each plank should be in harmony with the design of the house, giving it a complete look.

Finishing roof overhangs with soffit is an extremely simple procedure, but first you need to make a competent choice of the material itself.

Priority is given to:

Dimensions that are calculated independently, according to the width of the overhang and the length of the span on one side of the roof.
Color scheme. No recommendations are given in this regard either; the choice is yours, taking into account the wide range of soffit tones, design style and variety of color palette of all components of the structure.
The type of perforation, depending on the location of the soffits. The overhangs of the gables are often hemmed with solid panels. Fully perforated elements of a set of soffits are in demand for finishing any type of projections, and partially for cornices.

Sheathing sequence

Experts in finishing roof overhangs distinguish two main processes:

installation on rafters;
with the preparation of a horizontal box directly under the ledge.

When choosing a technical process for filing, the reference point is made to the angle of inclination of the roof. If it is flat, then it is better to use the first option, and if it is hip or has a steep slope, then the second.

Rafters

To prepare the rafters, you need to decide on the method of cutting the wood and installing the frame for the construction of the projections.

Sequence of activities when preparing rafters:

Provide for their length to be 30-50 cm longer than planned.
Form a protrusion that would correspond to the specified size.
Cut the material and process the edges of the rafters:
- vertical cut - for the purpose of filing along the rafters;
- vertical and horizontal sections - during the creation of the box.
It should be noted that if there is an unexpected increase in the width of the overhang before installation, the rafters must be lengthened using beams - “fillies”.
Achieve a straight overhang line.

Walls

Preparing the walls when finishing the roof eaves means insulating them, i.e. is a mandatory requirement of the procedure itself.

The process involves eliminating cracks and crevices that would allow water and air to pass through. The desired result will not be achieved if the insulation of the walls is done after the roof overhangs are installed.

House roof ventilation

When designing protrusions, it is necessary to create a ventilated space under the finishing material. Thanks to this condition, it is possible to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the sheathing area and subsequent rotting of the load-bearing components of the roof structure.

Depending on the material, choose the ventilation method:

By creating small gaps between the hemming elements.
Uniform installation of ventilation grilles in the panels. This option is the most popular.

Using spotlights will make things much easier, because... they already have perforations for future ventilation.

Tools

To figure out how to make roof ends, you should purchase all the tools in advance:

saw;
grinder;
drill;
screwdriver;
hammer;
stepladder;
level;
fasteners: self-tapping screws, nails, screws, etc.;
meter.

In addition, you should not forget about the materials for filing, as well as:

cord;
paint, according to the type of material;
antiseptic solutions.

Installation on rafters

This technological process of roof upholstery is performed in the following sequence:

Cut the material according to the protrusion parameters.
Treat all parts with an antiseptic to improve their protective properties.
If the technology requires painting of the filing elements, then this must be done before installation.
Check the smoothness of the rafter bases.
If necessary, level the rafters using additional boards that overlap.
Secure them with screws or nails.
Mount the last planks from the ends strictly along the eaves line.
Secure with hardware according to the type of material.
Pull the cord.
Continue installing subsequent parts of the lining, always oriented along the line along the cord.
Leave 5 to 10 mm distances between panels, because Due to weather surprises, the material may stretch.

Decorating a box for filing

The steps to create boxes on the roof with your own hands are carried out in strict order:

Cut and pre-treat the material with antiseptics and paints and varnishes.
Install and secure the board along the underside of the rafters.
Nail the beam to the wall one centimeter higher than the front board.
Arrange all the parts of the filing sequentially: fasten one edge to a beam mounted to the wall, the other to a board located on the side of the rafters.
Alternate panels with ventilation grilles at equal distances or leave a gap of 2 cm or more between the parts of the filing.
Fasten products with profile plates, screws, corners. Pay attention! If the boards are long, at least three fastenings are necessary to avoid deformation.
To form corners, mount the panels on both sides of the rafters or flat.

Technology for installing soffits on an overhang

And finally, let’s look at how to cover the eaves of a house with soffits. The procedure is quite simple, but at the same time, it requires theoretical knowledge to ensure reliable coverage.

All actions must be performed in a certain sequence:

Cut the blank material to fit the width of the overhang. If this value is more than 45 cm, then additional installation of a horizontal plank in the middle is necessary.
Mark the fixation line on the wall.
To ensure the reliability and evenness of the fasteners, you will need to mount the board on the wall along the entire length of the protrusion.
Attach the bars to the rafters from below horizontally, because Soffit panels will be mounted to them. Remember that before installing the soffits, you need to pre-cut the rafters along the vertical and horizontal lines.
Place the F or J profile on a board fixed to the wall.
Connect the parts with screws.
Insert the panel strips into the profile one by one.
Attach the opposite side of the product to the rafter beam or add another J(F) panel. If, due to the significant width of the overhang, you have an auxiliary strip attached in the middle, then you will need another fixation of the timber with the soffits with screws.
As soon as the installation procedure is completed, install the L-profile along the eaves lines, which will cover the ends of the rafters and panel strips.

Bottom line

Now you know how to hem the roof from below, and in what order to perform all the steps. Whatever technological process and material you choose, you must strictly follow all installation rules. The strength of the structure will depend on this, and the building and roof will become incredibly attractive.

Roof overhangs are trimmed for several reasons. One of the main ones is the aesthetic appearance, since the absence of spotlights gives the overall picture some incompleteness, and therefore the design is not neat enough.

Manufacturers of modern building materials have taken care to make the process of arranging this section of the roof as easy as possible. If previously various available materials were used to cover the lower space of the overhangs, such as moisture-resistant plywood, off-cut boards, siding or lining, then today you can find on sale special profiled sheets of certain sizes, as well as the necessary fittings for them. Due to the ease of installation of such parts, even a not very experienced craftsman who knows how to work with the simplest construction tools can install them. All you need is a screwdriver, an electric jigsaw or metal scissors, depending on the material the soffits are made of.

Naturally, when performing this type of work, it is necessary to take appropriate precautions, since the main process will take place at height.

Find out what to do to work at height from a new article on our portal.

Types of spotlights and their design

The word “soffit” is translated from Italian (“ sofitto") as "ceiling". These parts are panels made of metal, wood or plastic, and are intended for filing eaves and gable roof overhangs, as well as other horizontal surfaces. In terms of the functions they perform, they can be compared with such popular materials as siding or lining today. However, these panels have a number of differences that take into account their scope of application. And one of them is their width, which can even reach up to 800 mm.

Soffits are divided into types according to various criteria:

- according to design features;

- according to the material of manufacture;

- by area of application.

Design features of soffit panels

According to their structural structure, soffits come in three types - perforated, partially perforated and completely closed.

Perforated This option consists of panels that are evenly covered with small through holes over their entire surface. This type of material is intended for hemming horizontal surfaces of overhangs that are not exposed to the direct action of precipitation. Perforation is capable of providing effective ventilation not only of the overhangs themselves, but also of the entire under-roof space of the roof structure. And constant air exchange must be provided here. This is necessary to prevent the accumulation of condensation, dampness, and as a result, the onset of putrefactive processes on the wood and the appearance of mold or mildew.

Perforated panels perfectly protect the space under the eaves from the penetration of birds and insects (for example, wasps) into these cavities under the roof, since the holes have a very small diameter.

Partially perforated panels do not have ventilation holes over the entire surface, but only on one or two sections of the profiled sheet. Thanks to such hemming materials, it becomes possible to regulate the air exchange in a unique way. Partially perforated soffit panels are used for lining the external horizontal surfaces of the house, as well as the ceilings of terraces, gazebos, verandas or porches. Therefore, this type of material can be called universal.

Non-perforated The panel version does not have holes on its surface and is intended for cladding areas that are likely to be directly exposed to precipitation. Such areas may include overhangs on the gable part of the roof, as well as vertical walls along the eaves. In addition, soffits without perforation can be used to cover the vertical part of the pediment.

Everything except wooden homemade soffit panels , Howplastic and metal, have special locks with which they are secured to the overhang And connect with each other. After the soffits are docked and fixed tolathing overhang, locks visible there won't be.

Prices for soffit panels

soffit panels

Standard sizes of vinyl and metal soffit profiled panels can vary in width from 300 to 800 mm, and their length usually 3050 mm.

If the filing work is carried out independently, then it is necessary to take into account that the wider the panel is selected, the faster installation can be carried out spotlights in place.

Types of spotlights based on material of manufacture

Based on the material of manufacture, as mentioned above, finished soffits can be divided into plastic and metal (steel, aluminum and copper) options. Sometimes natural wood is also used. To decide on the choice of soffit panels based on the material of manufacture, it is worth considering their characteristics in more detail.

Plastic (vinyl) panels

Plastic soffits are made from the same material composition as for finishing the walls of facades.

The lifespan of such plastic in outdoor conditions declared by the manufacturer is 30 years or more, which, you see, is a lot. It is easy to care for - just periodically clean it from dust. The material does not require coloring, since it has a constant color - the dye is introduced into the structure of the vinyl at the stage of production of the plastic itself. Specialized stores offer a wide range of panel colors, which allows you to choose one that will harmonize with the shades of façade paint and the color of the roof. The panels are sold in packages of 16÷22 pcs.

The group of metal soffits includes panels made of aluminum, steel and copper. However, the most popular of metal panels are steel ones as they are the most affordable. Aluminum takes second place, and after it comes copper, but not because of low quality, but because of high cost.

Each of the metal options has its own disadvantages.

It has already been said that the most affordable of metal panels are steel soffits with an enamel protective and decorative coating. After cutting parts for hemming, the cut edges require processing, otherwise, with the inevitable exposure to moisture, they will become centers for the appearance and further development of corrosion.

Aluminum can also be damaged by oxygen corrosion, and to prevent this from happening, its cut must also be treated with a special compound.

Copper, although it has the highest cost, is also susceptible to oxidation. Therefore, the material for these products is often subjected to an oxidation process. True, oxidation of copper does not lead to structural damage. Therefore, such products are often considered as not having any limited shelf life.

Prices for plastic panel panels

plastic panels

Copper panels become more expensive due to the fact that they are usually purchased complete with a drainage system made from the same material.

The positive characteristics of metal soffits include the following qualities:

Wide range of color solutions for steel and aluminum soffits.
The copper version of the cladding of eaves overhangs has a very presentable appearance, especially if it is combined with a copper roof.
With appropriate processing of cuts, the material becomes resistant to aggressive atmospheric influences.
Completely inert to the formation of fungus, mold, moss, and biological decomposition.
Material strength and quite high resistance to mechanical damage.
Inert to ultraviolet radiation and temperature changes.
The operating temperature range is very wide - from -60 to +100 degrees.
The material is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic fumes.
The relatively light weight of the materials facilitates installation work. In addition, due to this quality of the material, it can be used on old buildings. Such decorative cladding does not significantly increase the load on the supporting structure.
Easy maintenance of the created structure.
Long service life, which should be at least 30 years for steel and aluminum. We have already said about copper - there are no special restrictions on the duration of operation.

Wooden soffits

Quite often on wooden and stone buildings you can see overhangs lined with boards or wooden planks. Home craftsmen most often make such soffits on their own. Another option is to order them from carpentry workshops.

However, when choosing this material for lining overhangs, do not forget about the need for ventilation. To ensure this, gaps are often left between the wooden planks, and to prevent insects from settling in the under-roof space, a metal mosquito net is attached to the eaves before fixing the narrow boards.

Wooden soffit strips can be fixed along the cornice or perpendicular to it. Their location depends on the choice of the house owner, the overall design of the facade and the width of the roof overhang.

Additional design elements for lining eaves overhangs

When installing soffit panels, additional profile elements will be required, which play not only a functional, but also a decorative role. For soffits, fittings from a kit are used for cladding walls and other surfaces with siding or plastic lining.

To frame and secure the edges of the panels, a J-profile is attached to the sheathing of plumb lines, which can have different widths, depending on the model of the kit.

Siding prices

To decorate the upper edges of the panels fixed to the wind board, a finishing strip is used. It is the final element of the design. This element is fixed along the upper edge of the wind board and the edge of the panel is hidden in it.

The H-profile is necessary for joining individual panels in places where it is impossible to use locks located at the edges of the soffits. For example, you can’t do without it when decorating the corner areas of eaves overhangs.

The use of an H-profile simplifies the diagonal installation of panels and masks their unevenly cut edges. In addition, the H-profile must be installed between the panels in cases where the eaves overhang has a length of more than 8000 mm. The connecting element will add rigidity to the structure and make it more reliable.

To install soffit panels on the wall of a building, not only J-profile, but also F-profile is used. It is convenient because it fixes the panel not only from below, but also from its upper part. The panels are pushed into this profile, fixed along the wall line, and firmly held in one position.

The profile, called the outer or outer corner, is usually mounted at the junction of the lower edge of the wind board and the overhang sheathing, into it is installed wind board cladding panels and eaves soffits.

In addition, the external corner can be used in other areas of the cladding where it is necessary to join two panels on a corner line.

Internal corner - this profile will be necessary if the house has an L-shaped or U-shaped layout, as well as if the porch, veranda or terrace of the house protrudes beyond the main building.

An internal corner is also suitable for joining along the wall soffit panels and siding boards or lining used for wall cladding.

J-bevel - excellent for facing the front board, while simultaneously creating conditions for attaching soffit panels

A J-bevel is a wide profile with an S-shape at the bottom edge. It is designed to install the front edge of the soffit panel into it. This profile element can be used when installing soffits if there is a wind (frontal) board in the overhang structure. When choosing the size of this profile, you need to focus on the width of the wind board.

An example of using such a J-bevel is clearly shown in one of the illustrations above.

Additional fittings for installing soffits are selected depending on the design that the lining of the eaves overhang will have. Sometimes different profiles can be interchanged. For example, instead of an internal corner, two J-profiles are installed, turned in different directions. However, it is best to use the profile element that is directly intended for a particular area of joining or framing panels.

In order not to miss any of the elements for installing the structure when purchasing material, it is recommended to draw up a diagram in advance and measure the length and width of the surfaces of the overhangs and wind board. In a hardware store, according to the diagram drawn up, the sales consultant will help you decide on the size and shape of the profiles, as well as their length and quantity.

Installation options for soffit panels

How the soffit will be installed depends on the width of the overhang, that is, on the distance formed from the wall to the end of the rafter (or filly), and also, often, on the height of the latter.

If the width of the overhang is less than 400 mm, then the soffit panel can be installed in profiles fixed horizontally to the wall of the house and at the ends. In this case, additional lathing is not even required.

If the width of the overhang is more than 400 mm, but less than 500 mm, then along the entire perimeter of the overhang, a bypass strip or beam is attached to the ends of the rafters, to which the J profile is fixed, into which the edges of the soffit panels will be installed. This strapping will strengthen the overhang and become a place for additional fastening for spotlights. That is, the step of their fixation will be smaller, which means they will hold more securely.
If the overhang has a width exceeding 500 mm, then it is necessary to install a sheathing under the soffit panels. To do this, bars are fixed on the wall, as well as on the edges of the rafters, and then between them along the entire length of the overhang, resulting in the formation of a reliable base for the panels. Guide profiles are fixed to the beams fixed along the edge of the rafters and on the wall - which one to choose is determined in advance. Soffit panels will be installed and secured into these profiles. It turns out that each of the panels will be fixed at six points.

If the wind board is small in width, then to cover it you can use one long but narrow one, which is installed along the roof overhang. If the frontal board has a width of more than 150 mm, then it is recommended to fix the panels vertically. Regardless of how the panels will be installed, before installing them it is necessary to fix the corresponding profiles under the roofing material, as well as along the edge of the rafters.
Here it is also worth considering the design of the corner plumb zones. They can be sheathed at an oblique or right angle, as shown in the figure.

Connecting nodes for soffits at the corners of the roof:

a) oblique angle;

b) right angle;

1 - external receiving cornice profile - J-profile or J-chamfer

2 - soffit panel;

3 - two J-profiles installed back to back, or one H-profile;

4 - wall profile: it can be an F-profile or a J-profile;

5 - J-profile, as an additional supporting element, mounted when forming the filing at a right angle.

Sewing cornice overhangs with soffits - do it yourself

Tools for installation work

To carry out installation work on filing eaves overhangs, you must prepare the following tools:

Construction level.
Tape measure, ruler, construction square.
Miter box.
Hammer and
A grinder and (or) metal scissors for metal panels. It is still recommended to use scissors, since when cutting sheet metal with an abrasive disc, the edges of the panel, due to overheating, lose their protective coating, and corrosion spots cannot be ruled out in these areas.
A wood saw with fine teeth for plastic and wooden soffits.
Sharp construction knife.

Having these tools at hand and knowing how to use them during the installation process, you can cope with the task of filing the soffits without any problems.

The procedure for performing installation work

The installation of soffit panels itself is not particularly difficult. The problem, however, may be the fact that the main operations will have to be carried out at altitude.

Therefore, professional builders, before starting work on installing gutters and sheathing roof overhangs, install scaffolding along the entire length of the slope. This quite complex a structure that allows you to move around calmly and do all the work alone.

If it is not possible to use scaffolding and you have to work from ladders, then you will need two of them, and you will also have to invite an assistant.

So, work on arranging the soffits begins after the flooring is completed. The first step is to take measurements from the overhang area: you will need to find out its width, length and the width of the wind board on both sides of the roof. If you plan to cover the gable overhangs or even the entire gable, then dimensions are taken from it as well.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	According to the measurements taken, a scheme for lining the overhangs is drawn up, indicating the dimensions and locations of specific profile elements. In addition, you immediately need to decide on the elements of the sheathing. Above we talked about the standard schemes of a wooden base for installing soffits. However, some craftsmen, for the purpose of higher reliability, prefer to strengthen the sheathing with additional bars. These elements are also included in the diagram and then in the estimate. The overhang hemming diagram may look as shown in the figure, but in addition it would be useful to indicate on it the dimensions of the length and width of the area to be sheathed. Having a work plan, it will be easy to plan the purchase of materials and accurately calculate costs.
	Having purchased everything you need, you can proceed directly to the work. And the first step in this process is securing the sheathing. The most common way to arrange the sheathing, even if the overhang is 400 mm wide, is to form a frame of three longitudinal bars. One of them is fixed to the wall using dowels or other fasteners at the level of the lower edges of the rafters, and the second is fixed to the lower ends of the rafter legs with self-tapping screws.
	The middle guide of the sheathing can be attached in different ways in different versions. For example, if the length of the slope is short, then the beam fixed in the middle part of the structure can only be fixed at the edges of the eaves overhang. If the length of the slope is more than two meters, then the middle beam must be secured not only at the edges of the slope, but also in addition to the rafter legs, installing sections of beam between them.
	At the corners of the roof it is necessary to make reinforced sheathing. In this case, of course, it is taken into account how the soffit panels will be joined - with a direct or oblique connection. If the second option is chosen, then it will be necessary to secure the beam from the corner of the house to the outer corner of the overhang. The H-profile will be attached to this frame element.
	It is much easier to arrange the sheathing for the soffits, which will be fixed parallel to the rafters. In this case, two or three beams, depending on the width of the overhang, are fixed directly to the rafter legs (or to their extension - the fillies).
	The J-profile (starting profile) is fixed to the sheathing beam, fixed along the wall, with self-tapping screws. Fastening is carried out with a screw pitch of 150 mm. Here it is necessary to take into account that if the walls are sheathed with clapboard or siding, then instead of the J-profile, an internal corner strip is installed. Instead of a J-profile, an F-profile can be installed, which will more reliably fix the panel in the required position.
	A J-profile can also be installed on the front side of the frame. However, to make the task easier, you can immediately install a J-bevel instead, which will cover the wind board and provide support for the front side of the soffit panels. If this element is selected for installation, then first a finishing profile is installed along the top line of the wind board, which will hold the J-bevel panel. The illustration shows the installation of these parts on the sheathing elements and wind board. Here you can see: 1. Finish profile. 2. J-chamfer. 3. Wind board (bracket). 4. Wooden frame element. Installation of all these parts is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed approximately into the middle of the longitudinal holes and are not tightened all the way. It is recommended to choose stainless steel fasteners, which will last longer and will not cause rust stains on fittings and soffit panels.
	The next step is cutting the panels according to the dimensions of the overhang width taken in advance. Metal soffits are cut using metal scissors. The illustration shows cutting using a grinder, but we have already mentioned the undesirability of this approach when using steel soffits. Vinyl panels can be easily cut with a fine-toothed hacksaw. When cutting panels, it is necessary to take into account that the panels must be 6–7 mm smaller than the full width of the overhang, that is, the so-called technological gap must be observed. This value is necessary if the panels will not be pushed into the profiles from their end side, but will be inserted first into one fixed along the wall, and then into the J-chamfer. In addition, this gap will allow the material to expand when the ambient temperature changes. It should be noted that each material has its own temperature gap, which is indicated by the manufacturer in the soffit installation instructions. The edges of cut metal soffits must be immediately treated with anti-corrosion compounds, otherwise corrosion will begin to destroy the panels over time, and they themselves will take on an unsightly appearance due to rust stains.
	Next, you can proceed to installing the spotlights in the profiles prepared for them. If a J-chamfer is selected for installation, then the soffit panels slide into the gaps of the profiles.
	Each of the retracted panels is screwed to the wooden sheathing through special longitudinal holes. The next panel to be installed is inserted into the locking part of the previous one, that is, it overlaps the edge with the holes through which the first one is secured to the sheathing. So the installation continues until the corner of the overhang.
	If it is more convenient to install and secure the soffits on the sheathing in the profiles, inserting them first into the guide mounted on the wall, and then into the front one, then this process must be carried out very carefully, since the edges of the profiles can easily be damaged. This installation method is more suitable for vinyl panels, as they are more flexible and easily return to their original shape after a slight bend. After installing the first panel, it is immediately screwed to the sheathing in two or three places, depending on its width. The next panel hooks onto the first with the curved edge of the locking part and closes the chamfer with fasteners.
	If the overhang does not turn to the other side of the house, then for its side part parts are cut out of a solid (without perforation) soffit or siding panel, which are fixed to the end part of the sheathing. These parts can be mounted vertically or horizontally, but in such a way that rainwater is not allowed to penetrate under them at the joints. The illustration shows only the sheathing for installing such a “plug”.
	If the method of direct panel fastening is chosen to design the corner overhang area, then the overhang of one side of the roof is hemmed in the usual way, and on the other side the panels are secured with a profile pattern perpendicular to the panels on the other side of the overhang. If, as shown in the illustration, the overhang has a complex shape, then the soffits are fixed on it according to the installed sheathing, the design of which will have to be thought about additionally, based on specific conditions.
	If you want to form the sheathing on the so-called “oblique angle” or “herringbone”, it is necessary to provide a beam in the frame sheathing, which is installed in the corner part from the wall to the outer edge of the overhang. An H-profile will later be fixed onto this element, into which panels cut at an angle of 45 degrees will be installed, forming a right angle for the overhang.
	It is much easier to deal with a gable overhang, since it is usually small in width, and two types of profiles can be used to frame its edges - the J-profile and the F-profile. For the joint of panels under the ridge, an internal corner profile is often used. If the gable side of the roof is sheathed with clapboard, then one profile can be used for it and the soffits - this is an internal corner, fixed along the intersection of the slopes and the gable wall. A soffit panel is inserted into one side of this profile, and lining or siding into the other.

Common mistakes when filing roof overhangs with soffits

In order for the overhang to look neat, it is necessary to follow the sequence of the installation process. Even a slight deviation or simplification can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Prices for lining

Do not neglect additional elements in the frame sheathing, and also save on fasteners. A strong wind that arises can easily ruin the whole job by tearing off and breaking the soffit panels if they are not secured securely enough. As a result, money and time will be wasted, and you will have to do the same work again, impoverishing the family budget for additional expenses.
The filing of the soffits is carried out after the walls are lined with clapboard or siding and gutters are installed.
It is recommended to fasten all parts of the soffit structure only with stainless steel fasteners. Otherwise, after a very short time, the initially neat appearance of the finish will be radically spoiled by rust stains.
Soffit panels made of any material require compliance with a technological gap during installation, since when the temperature rises and the material expands, it can become deformed. In such cases, the cladding begins to warp, and it has to be dismantled in order to be redone later.

By adhering to all the rules and recommendations for performing installation work, as well as strictly observing the necessary safety measures, it is quite possible to complete the lining of eaves overhangs with soffits yourself, without resorting to the services of craftsmen, and at the same time saving a very decent amount.

Some additional nuances of covering overhangs with soffits can be found by watching the recommended video:

Video: the process of installing soffits on roof overhangs

Everyone dreams of building their own home. But the construction of a residential building is a complex process that requires certain skills. The final stage of building a house is considered to be the installation of the roof; considerable skills and knowledge are also required here - in order for the roof not to leak, to be properly ventilated and to last for a long time, it is necessary to carefully calculate all its parameters and select high-quality materials.

But you can arrange the roof eaves with your own hands - this is quite possible. In order to understand how to do this correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of cornices and choose the material for covering the overhang.

Types of cornices

Most modern houses have gable roofs. With this design, the building has two side walls and two front walls. Moreover, the side ones are located on those sides where the roof rafters descend, while the front ones do not have overhangs.

It is necessary to install cornices both on the side walls and above the front ones too. After all, overhangs perform a number of functions:

decorate the house by covering the rafter structure;
protect the roof from wind, cold and humidity penetrating through the open ends of the rafters;
are part of the ventilation system of the under-roof space: through holes in the eaves, air penetrates under the roof, ventilates the layers of thermal and waterproofing, and then is discharged through the ridge;
cover the upper part of the walls from winds and slanting rains, preventing the house from getting wet.

Important! There are roof designs that do not include eaves, and there are also shortened versions of overhangs. However, for greater heat conservation inside the house and to protect it from moisture, it is still better to equip the roof with eaves.

Hip roofs have no frontal cornice, because here the rafters extend onto all four walls of the house. In gable roofs, the front cornice is the side slope of the sloping roof. Such an overhang is made by attaching load-bearing crossbars to the rafters that protrude above the walls.

You can often find a design in which the overhang is a continuation of the sheathing, which is pressed onto the vapor barrier layer. Then the cornice board is attached directly to the sheathing boards.

The side cornice is formed by rafters protruding beyond the walls. All pitched roofs have such overhangs; their sizes can be different; the norm is a cornice from 40 to 70 cm. To create an overhang, the lower parts of the rafters are cut to the same size and connected by a board to which the cornice sheathing will subsequently be attached.

It is very important to observe the roof ventilation mode during the process of filing the eaves. If this is not done, warm air will begin to condense into water, thereby harming the materials of the “roofing cake” and the walls of the house.

Attention! Ventilation holes should only be at the side eaves, while the front eaves should be hemmed tightly.

How to file a roof eaves

You can hem the roof eaves with your own hands using several materials - today their range is quite large. When choosing cladding, you need to be guided not only by the aesthetic factor, but also by the long service life of the material - it should be approximately equal to the service life of the roof itself.

The most commonly used materials for hemming overhangs include:

Options for lining roof eaves

There are two popular methods for lining eaves among roofers:

along the rafters;
on a wooden frame (box).

Hemming the cornice along the rafters

This option is only applicable for roofs with a small slope angle. The biggest difficulty with this method is the uneven size of the rafter legs. To make the cornice smooth and neat, the edges of all rafters must form one plane.

If it is not possible to cut the rafters to the same size, you need to use an additional board, which is attached to the lower edge of the rafters, perpendicular to the wall of the house. The length of the board should correspond to the distance from the wall to the protruding edge of the rafter.

First, the boards are attached to the outer rafters of one slope, then a rope is pulled between them and the boards are mounted relative to it to the remaining rafters. Such a frame is sheathed using metal corners and screws.

Filing the roof eaves along the frame

This option is ideal for roofs with a large slope. To create an overhang, a board about four centimeters wide must be secured to the lower edge of the rafters. The other side of the board is fixed to the wall of the house, or rather to a vertical strip pre-installed there. Instead of this supporting strip, you can use a beam, which is horizontally fixed to the wall with dowels.

The result should be a frame of triangular cross-section, which after covering will resemble a box closed on all sides. You can look at the finished design options in the photo or video.

If you want your roof to look beautiful and neat from all sides, and the rafters to be protected, it needs to be finished. This is why roof overhangs are hemmed. The house will be protected and will look like a completed structure. Let's take a closer look at what popular materials are and how to hem the roof eaves.

In this article

Why do they hem the cornices?

The rafter structure is completely assembled, strengthened, and only then the roof eaves are hemmed. But this is done before the sheathing frame is installed to finally cover the structure with the selected roofing material. Before you start filing your eaves, completely waterproof the roof and insulate the attic. Before you start covering your cornices, do not insulate the walls. Then you will not disturb the fine finish of their surface.

Before installation, inspect the rafter structure. If any parts stick out when they shouldn't, they need to be sawed off. For a pitched roof, you need to sew up the overhangs so that there is room for installing drainpipes with ventilation for the roof pie. What material to choose for cladding? Purchase it at your discretion and in any suitable configuration.

Hemming of cornices

The body kits are sheathed according to the following schemes:

When the roof has a slight slope or the house needs to be increased in height, they sheathe it directly along the rafters. Before this, you should already carry out work when the rafter legs are aligned and are in the same plane. Now install strips on the edges on both sides to hem the cornice. Stretch the marking thread from one to the other. Focusing on them, attach the remaining parts to decorate the body kit.
For case 2, you need vertical and horizontal alignment of the rafter legs. Nail a board to the rafters below, and attach a beam to the wall (1 cm higher than the previously attached board). Thanks to this, moisture will drain normally. Is your overhang more than 450 mm? Additionally, install a board in the middle.

If you carry out the work yourself, you will need to create an overhang box. The box for different types of cladding is made the same. The board is sewn onto the sheathing, moving along our pediment. Now measure the distance from it equal to the width of your overhangs. The boards are brought to their permanent place in parallel, aligned with the gable wall.

We sew overhangs with soffits

Soffits with the necessary details can be made from different materials and by different companies. That’s why the mounting methods are different. When you purchase the material, read the instructions for how the manufacturer recommends attaching it. Consider lining the roof eaves with vinyl soffits.

I install soffits most often horizontally. There are cases when they are attached at the feet of the rafters. To lay horizontally, you need lathing. The necessary materials are placed on it. Let's consider the technology:

A J-profile of the correct size is required. It needs to be placed across our overhang and marks made there.
The profile of the required size can be cut using a grinder. You will do this quickly, and the cut area will come out smooth.
Using self-tapping screws. Attach the profile to the wooden frame.
Fasten the profiles like this over the entire area. Want to know how thick the soffit strip should be? Measure the distance between 2 of the profiles. These are the soffit strips you need to cut.
To set the bar. It must first be brought to the overhang near the wall, and then into the eaves. Attach it to the wooden sheathing with self-tapping screws.
When filing the roof eaves, do not use a J-bevel. The frontal area also needs to be covered with soffits.

So, the cornice is covered with soffits .

How to cover a cornice with clapboard or board?

Before covering, do not forget to soak the board or lining with an antiseptic, a mixture that prevents the material from igniting and is water-repellent. The material will last much longer how without such impregnations.

How long will the boards be needed? Suitable for overhang length. Attach one board from another at a distance of 1 cm. These gaps are needed for ventilation. If you choose lining for installation, then make tongue-and-groove connections. A step of 1.5 m is required and attach ventilation grilles there.

Hemming with corrugated sheets

Let's consider the technology of how to optimally make firmware. Using corrugated sheets:

Apply the block horizontally and focus on the level of the edge of the overhang. Now, in parallel, focusing on the edge of the rafter legs, nail 2 bars;
It is necessary to cut the corrugated sheet into pieces of the required length. Don't forget to allow for thermal expansion and ventilation clearances. Fasten the material to the previously mounted bars with self-tapping screws.
There will be gaps between the wall and the corrugated sheet. Cover them with strips for internal corners. When connecting, there will be similar gaps at the outer edges. They are covered with slats for external corners.

With roof eaves lining option — corrugated sheeting you did it.

Attention! When corrugated metal is used for filing, do not forget that this material rusts and lasts less than wood with impregnations.

Nuances when working with spotlights

Let's look at the features that arise when using this material:

The soffit must be fixed through certain holes and placed at right angles;
The gaps between the material are needed to expand in hot weather. When cold, the material contracts slightly;
For these fasteners, this size is considered optimal: the head is 8 mm wide, the leg is 3 mm long. There is no need to screw them too tightly. Leave a gap of 1 mm;
Let there be a distance of 40 cm between the fastenings. You can fasten the material more often;
Cut the soffits. Using a circular saw with a blade. The teeth on it are in the opposite direction. You can use a knife, cutting metal, scissors. Use a knife to draw where you will bend as much as necessary and break off pieces of the required size;
If you are going to store or transport spotlights, then put them in stacks of 10 to a maximum of 15 pieces. Lay the material on a flat surface ;
Manufacturers claim that you can work with the material in winter, but craftsmen do not recommend doing construction work by laying this material when the frost outside is below 15 degrees.

You can hem the roof eaves with clapboards or boards or other materials, but experts recommend using soffits. The material is convenient to lay, cornices with them look aesthetically pleasing and last a long time. Do not forget about the nuances and adhere to the above technologies. Now you know how to hem the roof eaves yourself.

They often plan to finish the roof overhang later or skip this stage altogether. However, such a simple manipulation will not only give the roof an aesthetically complete look, but will also help secure other structural elements more reliably. If you don’t want to bother too much, then you can resort to one of the simplest and most accessible operations - filing the roof overhangs.

Very quickly, without much effort and special skills, you can finish finishing the entire house yourself. After which both the roof and the house as a whole will be transformed. In addition, the entire structure will become stronger, and the facade will be protected from excess sunlight and precipitation. Below we will consider in detail: what is roof overhang lining, how it is done, and what materials will be needed.

Roof overhangs: main purpose

An overhang or eaves is the lower part of the roof, which necessarily protrudes beyond the walls of the house. In other words, an additional canopy over the house. They perform a protective function. Firstly, overhangs protect from summer sun rays. At the same time, the winter sun warms up the rooms. Secondly, they protect external walls and foundations from leaking. And snow or icicles won’t fall on your head. As a rule, their width varies from 40 cm to 1 meter.

It is believed that this part of the house does not require mandatory filing. But it is worth considering that in this case the windage of the structure will increase, a strong gust of wind can break the eaves. And it also depends on how the overhangs were installed. In some cases, they are not specifically hemmed so that the decorative supports that serve as part of the exterior are visible. Then the work is done as carefully as possible. But it’s better to hide the rough work under a file so that friends and neighbors don’t point their fingers at the roof every time. The lining will also improve the thermal insulation of the house.

Types of overhangs: cornice and front

There are two types of eaves: they can be eaves or frontal. A design option when the overhang is formed by the lower part of a sloping roof is usually called eaves. The front overhang is formed by the side of the slope.

Eaves roof overhang

This type of construction complements the lower part of the sloped roof. It is designed in such a way that air can reach higher under the roof. As a rule, this works on attic roof options. In mansard roof types, air leaks through the air layer of the roofing pie (a system of several layers of roofing material), right up to the ridge, ventilating the entire roof.

If air channels are not provided, the ventilation process will be completely impossible, which is extremely bad. The filing should not be done “tightly”. But it's still worth doing. Otherwise, there is a risk that mice, birds, insects or other living creatures will get under the roof. And then the rafters will have to be carefully treated with water-repellent paint, otherwise moisture will spoil them over time.

This is important! The eaves sheathing must have a ventilation system.

There are several ways to install a ventilation system:

The easiest thing to do is to leave a small gap between the walls of the house and the sheathing. For corrugated sheets, the minimum thickness of the slots is 6 mm, the maximum is 12 mm. The gap under the lining or siding should be 10-15 mm.
There are special grilles that allow air to enter, which are inserted directly into the cladding material. They can be used with almost all types of hems.
In cases where the overhang is sheathed with boards, it simply leaves small gaps (5-10 mm) between them.
Small holes can be made in the soffit panel, which will serve to ventilate the entire roof.

Note to the master. Tip 1: the totality of ventilation holes must be at least 1/500 of the total area to be ventilated. When working with bitumen or seam roofing, the width of the holes should be larger than for clay tile roofing, as it has the ability to “breathe”.

Note to the master. Tip 2: Ventilation holes must be covered with a grille (in the case of cracks, with a mesh). Otherwise, the holes will quickly become clogged with insects, small animals, dust or anything else.

Front roof overhang

When using a frontal system, the overhang is formed by the side part of the slope, which is located on a slope. Which turns off ventilation problems. But strong wind or moisture can damage the structure. Most often in such cases, the insulation suffers. If it becomes saturated with moisture, it will not perform its function.

This is important! When working with a front canopy, everything must be done hermetically.

Roof overhang: edge treatment

Both types of overhangs have open elements at the ends. At the front overhang, the ends of the sheathing are unprotected, and at the eaves, these are the end parts of the rafters. In order to prolong the life of the entire structure, these parts should be treated. The eaves overhangs still need to install additional drainage paths along them. In this case, the protection of the end area will be the edge finishing. The protective layer is made depending on the roofing material used. Manufacturers usually include a special edge protection kit in the packaging.

Before installing the sheathing, one more action must be taken: all protruding rafters and fillies should be trimmed vertically (strictly along one contour). At the same time, the distance from the wall should be the same, this is important. Afterwards, the ends of the stops need to be connected with a strapping wooden panel, on which the front board is then nailed. Most often a metal board is used. Metal, ceramic or bitumen tiles, include a frontal board. If you don’t have one at hand, then you can make it yourself from wood. Only the board will have to be carefully treated with a water-repellent compound, since drainage paths will be installed on it.

The procedure for processing the front overhang is as follows:

First, all protruding sheathing boards need to be trimmed. It is important that the edge contour is transverse to the wall.
The next step will be installing the end panel. We nail a board of wood or metal to the end of the ridge beam and the aligned edges of the sheathing structure.
Finally, the end area of the board should be covered with roofing material. The length of the roofing sheet must correspond to the length of the eaves.

The most popular options for filing eaves

The roof overhang can be hemmed in different ways. To do this, they came up with a lot of ways: parallel or perpendicular to the eaves, using solid sheets or individual strips, using certain materials and fastening systems. But these are all variations of the two main filing methods.

Roof overhang: lining directly along the rafters

This method is the easiest. There is only one nuance: the lower ends of the rafters must have one common plane. As a rule, this method is used to hem structures for roofs with a slight slope (up to 30 degrees) and the offset should be 40-50 cm. We attach the sheathing to the rafter posts. Any wooden planks or beams are suitable for its manufacture. Hemming panels can be screwed transversely to the wall, along the end of the rafters, or perpendicular to the surface of the rafters. You need to look at the situation.

Sewing horizontally

This method is ideal for steeply sloped roofs. The installation process takes significantly less time and material is used more economically. To do this, you will need several pieces of beams, from which you need to twist a small structure called a box. Next, it is attached to the rafters and the wall (top and bottom). So that splashes of water that fall on the overhang drain easily. The beam, which on the wall should be 1 cm higher than the beam on the rafters. After that, boards are nailed between the corners of the roof and the house. There is an important nuance here: if the overhang is more than 45 cm, then an additional longitudinal beam will need to be installed in the middle. Other longitudinal beams need to be reinforced with bars, securing them with nails perpendicular to the surface of the wall.

The front overhang is hemmed exclusively along the sheathing

The roof overhang can be finished in any way. Planks or beams are attached directly to the sheathing. After this, sheathing strips are attached to them.

Choosing material for hemming

The material can be chosen at your discretion. The only thing is that you need to choose it to match the style of your home. Because white plastic will not match a wooden house in any way.

Which board is best?

It is better to give preference to planed coniferous boards, and if this is not available, then you can use edged boards of any species. The width of the board should be between 50-250 mm and a thickness of 17-22 mm. It wouldn't hurt to treat the boards with paint or varnish. Ideally, before installation, the boards should lie for 25-30 days under a canopy outside. Then they will have the optimal degree of humidity.

When covering, it is important to remember to leave gaps (10-15 mm) between the boards so that air can circulate. With perpendicular installation, the boards are attached on both sides. When the overhang is larger than usual, you can add a third screw in the center. If the installation is parallel, then the boards are fixed after 1 meter.

Board is a relatively inexpensive material. A cubic meter will cost from 6,000 rub.m3.

Wooden lining

The lining has one big advantage over the board - it is treated with an antiseptic. There is a moisture-resistant type of lining. Considering that it will be used outdoors, it is better to choose this one. Before installation, the lining must also spend 25-30 days under a canopy outside. Otherwise, the installation of the lining proceeds in the same way as the boards. You just don't have to leave any air gaps. When working with lining, you can use special ventilation grilles. They are placed at intervals of 1.5 m.

The lining costs from 300 rubles per sq. m.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) siding

Siding must be moisture resistant. Making hemming using siding is very convenient. Because you can purchase various fastening systems, corners, air grilles and everything you might need for it.

The roof overhang is finished with slats installed perpendicular to the walls. Depending on the width of the eaves, they are attached in several places (2-3-4). It is not advisable to mount the planks along the wall, since this material is not as rough as wood, so they may sag, or a significant number of fasteners will be needed.

Square meter of PVC planks - from 250 rubles.

Corrugated sheet (profiled sheet)

The main advantage of this material is that the installation process takes little time, since it is laid in large sheets and fastened according to the same principle as a board. The height of the corrugated sheet profile can vary from 8 mm to 20 mm. When hemming, a gap of 6-12 mm should be left. There is a special grille for the ventilation system.

A square meter will cost 500 rubles.

Sheet metal

The composition of metal sheets may vary. Among them there are sheets of galvanized or polymer steel, copper and aluminum. The length of such sheets is up to 6 meters. Ventilation can be done using a special grille or perforated pieces of metal. Steel sheets must be treated with an anti-corrosion coating in the cut areas. Aluminum and copper do not need this. The disadvantage of metal sheets is that they are quite difficult to cut. You will need a special tool.

The price of one square meter is from 300 rubles.

Plywood and OSB

When choosing plywood sheets for overhangs, use grades with water-resistant properties. The material is quite rigid, so it allows the use of large slabs for installation. However, you will have to assemble a wooden box from blocks, to which sheets of plywood will be screwed every 1-1.5 m. For ventilation, ready-made grilles are sewn into the sheets. Plywood does not look very attractive, so it is advisable to paint the finished overhang.

Plywood will cost 350 rubles per square meter, OSB from 600 rubles.

Fitting overhangs with soffit is the fastest and most durable way

Soffits are usually called strips made for lining overhangs, so working with them is the most convenient. They are made from various materials: metal (copper, aluminum, steel), PVC. Which have a wide color palette and rich texture, thereby allowing you to select soffits for any home design.

The set of spotlights consists of the following elements:

Soffit panels.
Frontal planks (chamfers).
Profiles with J-shaped grooves.
End strips.

Many manufacturers produce spotlights and their components, so they may differ in appearance.

According to their characteristics, soffit panels come with one layer, double, triple, perforated (eaves) and solid (for front-line work). Anyone with minimal experience working with wood, fasteners and construction tools can install soffits. You need to cut the panels and install them perpendicular to the wall of the house.

PVC planks are sold at a price of 600-700 rubles per square meter. The rest are several times cheaper.

Cost table for panels for lining overhangs

Do-it-yourself soffit filing: detailed instructions

There is no strict standard for fitting soffits, so the installation process may vary slightly. Before installation, be sure to read the instructions. Below we will discuss the installation process using vinyl soffits as an example.

As a rule, soffits are installed horizontally, but in some cases longitudinal fastening along the rafters is used. Horizontal fastening involves the construction of a special lathing frame. Instructions for its manufacture are given above in the text. Afterwards, all other elements for installation are attached to the sheathing.