07.05.2017 21:25

Profiled timber attracts many Russians with its affordability and excellent thermal characteristics. However, most of them mistakenly believe that such a house does not have to be insulated. Of course, I want to preserve the unique wooden flavor of the interior and exterior of the building, but comfortable living is more important. In matters of warming a house from a profiled beam, there are some nuances. We will tell about them today.

When can you not insulate?

In fact, profiled timber does not always need to be insulated. If the house is being built in a region with a warm climate or for temporary (seasonal) residence, then it does not need insulation. The boards fit snugly enough to each other and are able to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the absence of too low temperatures.

Such a cottage is an ideal option for fans of eco-friendly wooden houses. The owners will be able to admire the beauty of the log house both inside and outside in summer. They will also enjoy pleasant coolness in hot weather and warmth in case of an unexpected cold snap.

If the house is being built for permanent residence, then it is necessary to insulate. It is also recommended to make warming in the baths. How to do this depends on the thickness and type of profiled timber.

What is profiled timber?

This material can be very different in cross section. Thanks to this master, it is easy to choose boards for the desired building.

The thinnest profiled beam reaches 95 millimeters in width and 145 millimeters in height.

The rest are significantly larger than 195x145.

You must understand that even the thickest profiled timber is not able to fully protect against the cold in winter. Especially in the far north. The house needs additional insulation.

In any case, it is necessary to carefully select the material. High-quality profiled timber has a high degree of drying (humidity up to 20%). Compliance with the technology in the manufacture of the material prevents shrinkage and deformation of the walls subsequently. For this reason, even when working with the best specialists, they need to be controlled when purchasing timber. You live in the house, and each mistake then repeatedly comes back to haunt you with problems.

The level of thermal insulation to some extent depends on the selected profile. It can also be different:

with one spike;

with two spikes;

with bevelled chamfers;

"comb";

Finnish profile.

Of course, it is easiest to lay the last option, but the “comb” wins in terms of thermal insulation characteristics. If you need to build a house in a region with a harsh climate, choose it.

Stages of home insulation

If you want to minimize heat loss, then you need to thoroughly approach the insulation. It needs a foundation, floor, walls, roof. In each case, it is necessary to take into account the features of the designated elements of the house. Only then will it be possible to make housing truly comfortable.

Foundation

The base of the house is best insulated from the outside. So you save money, protect the foundation from freezing and destruction during sudden temperature changes. In addition, in this case, the basement area will be preserved, which is also important.

Internal insulation is permissible only when external insulation is not possible. The house was originally built without external insulation of the foundation, and this omission must be eliminated.

The main materials for external insulation:

polyurethane foam;

extruded polystyrene foam.

Polyurethane foam has excellent hydro, heat and sound insulation characteristics. It is applied using special equipment. The layer of material must be at least 50 millimeters.

Advantages of polyurethane foam:

work does not take much time;

lack of cold bridges in the foundation;

no gaps or seams.

It takes more time to lay extruded polystyrene foam. However, it costs much less and practically does not absorb moisture, which provides the maximum level of waterproofing.

Insulation must be installed at a freezing depth. This is the most rational use of material, means and time.

Installation should be carried out along the walls of the building. This will reduce the depth and degree of freezing.

Even if the floorboards fit snugly together, over time they dry out and gaps form. To avoid removing the coating and carrying out insulation work in the future, it is better to do everything correctly at the initial stage.

Floor insulation involves the use of not only insulation, but also vapor and waterproofing. The choice of materials depends on the type of floor, so before starting work it is better to consult with a specialist.

The most common way to insulate the floor is by joists. To do this, logs are installed in the foundation or log house in a T-shape. From below, shields are nailed to them, on which the necessary materials are installed. First, hydro and vapor barrier, then insulation, and the third layer is hydro and vapor barrier again.

The finished floor is laid after these works.

Can be insulated both outside and inside. There is another option for those who do not want to give up the wooden aesthetics of the beam - interventional insulation.

The choice already depends on your preferences. Do you want to admire the solid wood both in the interior and exterior? Choose interventional insulation. If only the appearance of the house is important for you and the reduction in the area of ​​\u200b\u200brooms does not scare you, insulate inside. When only the interior matters, and siding or facing bricks seem attractive, then external insulation is best suited.

Materials:

for interventional insulation, sheep wool, flax, linen or jute are used, the last option is a novelty on the construction market, which has excellent performance characteristics;

for external insulation, you can take foam or cotton material;

for internal - only cotton wool insulation.

Be sure to install vapor barrier materials to prevent moisture from being absorbed by the insulation. Also take care of the ventilation in the house to ensure a comfortable climate in the house.

The ceiling is insulated in the same way as the floor, and the technology of roof insulation is similar to the thermal insulation of walls. We will not dwell on these points.

For details when carrying out insulation work, it is better to consult a specialist. He will be able to give the best advice in your particular case.

How to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Timber-framed houses have been gaining momentum lately. They are chosen not only for their low cost and environmental friendliness, but also for the fact that they can be erected in a short time and at any convenient time (both in winter and summer).

However, such buildings need additional thermal insulation, especially in our country, where the climate in winter is very severe in places.

Many, faced with such a problem, wondered if it was possible to insulate a house from a bar from the inside and how to do it correctly?

Before answering this question, it is necessary to understand the reasons for the penetration of cold air into the room. There may be several of them:

1. Incorrect installation and selection of the thickness of the insulation contribute to the penetration of cold air into the room.
2. Between the timber there are holes and cracks that formed during shrinkage or improper installation.

Stages of warming a house from a bar inside

The internal insulation of a house made of timber includes several stages:

1. Room preparation.
2. Alignment of all irregularities and holes.
3. Vapor barrier.
4. Frame.
5. Insulation of a house from a bar from the inside with the help of materials.
6. Ventilation.
7. Decorating the rooms from the inside.

Preparing the room for insulation

Before you start insulating a house from a bar inside, you need to perform a number of preparatory work:

• cleaning all surfaces from dust and dirt (wallpaper, if any, should be removed);
• treat the surface with a special antiseptic solution (this must be done so that insects and mold do not appear);
• it is necessary to treat the surface with a solution that protects the tree from burning;
• all wiring that runs along the wall should be separated from the surface.

Wall processing

Crack sealing

At this stage, it is necessary to close all existing gaps, even the smallest ones, with jute fiber. The void is filled using a chisel. For large holes, tape tow is used.

On a note: If the house was just built, and no one lives in it, then it is necessary to close all the holes again in a year. If they live in the building, then this procedure can be carried out in a couple of years, since shrinkage is slower than in a non-residential building.

vapor barrier

The accumulation of moisture between the timber can lead to rotting of the wood. To avoid this, they create a barrier - a vapor barrier and waterproofing film, which is placed on the bar with a rough side. This must be done before you begin to insulate the inside of the wall.

Thanks to the properly positioned vapor barrier / waterproofing film, moisture does not get on the wood.

Frame / crate

Racks are made in advance so that the corners get the desired shape. The length of the beam will be equal to the height of the room (section 5 × 10 cm).

Cut off another rail with the same length, but with a different section (5 × 5 cm). It is attached with self-tapping screws to the edge of the beam. The result is a design that resembles the letter "G".

It is worth noting that there should be exactly as many such racks as there are corners in the room. To keep the racks in the right position, use the level. Then, observing the distance between the rails of half a meter, install bars with a cross section of 5 × 5 cm vertically.

Insulation laying

Installation of insulation material

Mineral wool is used for thermal insulation. It is worth noting that the width of the insulation by a couple of centimeters should be greater than the gap between the bars.

With the help of anchors, during the laying process, the insulation is fixed to the wall.

Advice: For additional thermal insulation (that is, its improvement) put another layer of film.

Finishing work

A stapler is used to attach polyethylene to the bar. As soon as the film is fixed, they proceed to the decoration of the room.

Ventilation system

After thermal insulation, the humidity in the house will increase, so you should create a ventilation system: with its help, the microclimate will improve.

For this purpose, an attic is perfect, where you can place the entire ventilation system. In order for the air to begin to circulate, you can use a fan with a low power level.

In winter, it is necessary to turn on the fan daily for half an hour.

Insulation of the floor in a house from a bar from the inside

To reduce heat loss in a wooden house, it is necessary to insulate the floors. For this, mineral wool / polystyrene is used. If the floor is already covered, then it must be dismantled.

Important detail: After dismantling the floor, a rough coating is made from the base of the structure, on which polyethylene is placed. The gaps between the lags are sealed with insulating material.

If you are going to insulate with foam, then you first need to fill the gravel into the floor structure by forty centimeters, and then level it.

It will take about two weeks for the concrete to dry completely. After two weeks, a film is laid on the rough coating, and then foam.

ceilings

Foam plastic / mineral wool / expanded clay is used to insulate the ceiling.

However, despite the wide choice of thermal insulation material, most owners use sawdust. Such a heater is good because it has high environmental friendliness and low cost.

But before insulating the ceiling with it, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This way you can prevent the appearance of fungus. Also, this material is treated with antipyrine so that in case of fire, it does not catch fire.

To avoid the appearance of rodents, the sawdust should be dried well and lime should be added to them. This insulation is tightly laid in voids.

What should be considered when choosing a heater?

Range of insulation materials

To choose a heater that is as safe as possible for health, you need to pay attention to the combination of material with wood. The insulation must not only be well ventilated, but it must also be in harmony with the properties and vapor permeability of wood.

Attention: Many prefer foam. But, it is worth noting that such material does not pass moisture well, therefore, it is not worth using it for internal as well as external thermal insulation of the room (condensate will drip onto the tree, which will lead to rotting of the timber).

Despite the fact that basalt and fiberglass are non-natural materials, they have excellent vapor-permeable properties. If there is a ventilation system, moisture will not accumulate.

But it is worth noting that such materials emit harmful substances that enter the room during ventilation. As a result, a person breathes them. Of course, if you install a film, then no harmful particles will enter the room, but the beneficial microclimate of the tree will also disappear.

As for flax fiber and fiberboard, they are best combined with the properties of wood.

Video about the internal insulation of a log house

November 25, 2017

How to choose the right section of the beam. To insulate or not a house from a bar?

Very often, before starting construction, you can hear the question: what section of the profiled timber to choose for the house? Here we can immediately say that it is quite difficult to unambiguously answer this question. For example, if it’s not particularly important for you personally how much to pay for heating, the cross section of the beam can be anything.

In addition, the thickness depends on the type of wood, since larch, spruce, cedar and other species differ significantly in thermal conductivity characteristics.

If you take glued laminated timber, it will be much warmer in structure than solid wood. New construction technologies are also emerging, which also provide their own answers to this question, so here each case needs to be analyzed separately.

What is the section of the beam, and in what buildings is it used?

Ric .1 common cross-sections of profiled timber

The minimum section of profiled timber used in construction is 100x100 mm, 100x150 mm. Material with such parameters is used for the construction of various types of outbuildings that are not intended for permanent residence, it is also suitable for building a bathhouse, a veranda, a gazebo and a summer house in a summer cottage.

Ric .2 bath of profiled timber 100x150 mm

A bar with parameters of 150x150 mm is mainly used for the construction of seasonal houses and baths. This is the best option in terms of price and quality. In such a house it will be as comfortable as possible in the summer, and after additional insulation and for year-round use.

Ric .3 dacha of profiled timber 150x150 mm

As for winter houses and houses for permanent residence, in this case it is necessary to use a beam with a section from 150x150 mm to 200x200 mm. This is the thickest material, but it also costs a little more than the rest. But with such a bar you can save on insulation.

Ric .4 winter house made of profiled timber 200x150 mm

What timber can be used for a winter house?

There are two main options here, depending on the wishes and financial capabilities of the Customer.

1. If you do not plan to carry out any finishing work on the outside of the house (cladding with siding, timber simulator, etc.), then it would be best to use a profiled timber with a section of 150x200 mm (or 200x200 mm).

Ric .5 profiled timber wall 200x150 mm

If you are planning any external finishing in the future, then it is quite possible to use a profiled beam with a section of 150x150 mm and subsequently compensate for the missing heat with the help of various kinds of heaters.

Ric .6 house made of timber 150x150 mm before and after finishing

To insulate or not a house made of profiled timber?

The answer to this question depends on many factors: the climatic region of residence, the purpose of using the building, the specific section of the timber, as well as other nuances.

If, for example, you put up a summer house or a bathhouse in a summer cottage and plan only seasonal use (from late spring to early autumn), then you can limit yourself to the minimum thickness of insulation or not use it at all.

But by insulating the house (in this case we are talking about the insulation of the house from the outside), you get a number of undeniable advantages that may compensate for all your costs for warming and finishing the house:

1. significant increase in thermal insulation properties(insulation covers all possible cracks, cracks);
2. protection of wood from the adverse effects of precipitation, temperature fluctuations, condensation(the material does not rot or mold);
3. providing comfort and a favorable microclimate indoors(in the summer the house will be cool, and in the winter it will be warm);
4. prevention of timber freezing and cracking(additional layers of insulation do not allow the timber to freeze completely);
5. increase the life of a house or bath(it is much easier to change the facade decoration than to completely rebuild the house);
6. reduction of heating and space heating costs(Insulated house cools down much more slowly).

Ric .7 diagram of installation of insulation and finishing of a house from a bar

Warming the house from the inside is used quite rarely, as it has a number of disadvantages:

• reduced usable floor space;
• the beam remains unprotected from the adverse effects of precipitation;
• the outer walls of the house remain cold;
• possible formation of condensate at the junction of the wall with insulation.

The advantages of this method include the possibility of warming at any time of the year. In addition, it is not always possible to insulate the walls outside the house.

As for the insulation technique, it will directly depend on each individual construction project, except that special attention should be paid to ventilation in the space between the insulation and the wall (for this, a certain indentation of the insulation from the wall is made). This solution will help to avoid excess moisture on wall structures.

Insulation plays an important role in home insulation. It should be durable, reliable and high-quality material that does not allow moisture to pass through and keeps heat well. It must be resistant to temperature extremes, humidity, fireproof. Also, it is very important that it is environmentally friendly and safe for health.

Ric .8 main types of insulation used for home decoration

If you want to get a house that is perfect in all respects and not worry about whether you will be warm and comfortable in it, contact SvoyTeplyDom. Here, highly qualified specialists will help you decide, as well as advise what is best to use for the most comfortable stay.

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Self-insulation of windows: 4 ways that you will be interested in

Hello. Today I will tell you about self-insulation of windows in an apartment and in a country house. Thermal insulation of windows is a very important stage of real estate renovation, which should not be neglected if you are interested in the energy efficiency of your home and moderate heating bills.

General information

To date, there are many ways of thermal insulation. The choice of one of the methods depends on the type of window.

This time you will learn how to make ordinary wooden windows and modern double-glazed windows warmer. In addition, I will talk about how to insulate openings outside the house with my own hands using inexpensive polystyrene foam.

Thermal insulation of plastic double-glazed windows

Qualitatively made plastic double-glazed windows are equipped with special rubber seals, which, due to a snug fit to the frame, prevent the passage of air from outside into the room.

The areas through which the cold passes are:

• joint of a plastic frame with a window sill and slopes;
• glass.

So, what methods of metal-plastic double-glazed windows can be used for insulation?

Seam sealing

Even after high-quality plastering of slopes, a microgap remains. If this micro-gap is not closed, it will cause cold air to circulate and condensation to form. As a result, a fungus may appear at the junction of the slopes and the frame.

To close the gap, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Sanitary silicone in a tube;
• Mounting gun for working with sealant;
• White Spirit;
• sharp knife
• Awl;
• Paper napkins.

Instructions for sealing seams are shown in the following diagram.

Let's take a closer look at these steps:

• With the tip of the awl, we expand and align the gap along the entire frame;
• We moisten a paper towel with a thinner and carefully wipe the joint of the slopes and the frame;
• We prepare the tube for work, namely, we cut off the plastic tip with a knife, insert it into the gun and wind the cone of the nozzle;

• We fill the gap with sealant around the perimeter of the double-glazed window;

• If necessary, we level the seam and clean the adjacent surfaces from contamination.

Sanitary sealant is completely removed with white spirit within 20 minutes after application. After 20 minutes, it will be very difficult to remove the sealant.

Now the most important thing to know when filling the gap between the slopes and the frame with sealant.

Typically, silicone is applied as follows. A person stands up to the window sill, puts the tube with a cone to the gap at an angle of 45-60 degrees and leads the tube towards himself.

As a result, the sealant is squeezed out by a worm, and it has to be leveled and smoothed with a finger, after which it is necessary to clean the adjacent surfaces. Even if you remove the silicone influxes, a layer of several microns will still remain and after a couple of weeks a strip dirty from dust will be visible in this place.

So that the silicone gets exactly into the gap and nowhere else we apply the cone of the tube at an angle of 45 degrees and lead it forward, and not towards ourselves. As a result, the tip of the cone itself will align the seam and there will be practically no pollution on the sides.

Not every silicone is suitable for insulating ordinary double-glazed windows or a balcony with panoramic windows; in extreme cases, we use sanitary sealants that will not mold later.

Glass insulation film

Plastic windows at home can be additionally insulated with heat-saving film. No, now I'm not talking about pasting the frames with tape, it's useless here, I mean shrink film, with which you can create an additional air chamber between the glass and the room.

Do you know that the greatest heat losses on modern double-glazed windows are recorded not in the frame area, but directly on the panes?

Manufacturers convince us that argon or other inert gases are pumped between two glasses, which are less thermally conductive compared to air. But the problem is that the gas layer works for 2-3 years, after which the space between the two panes becomes airy.

Solving this problem is not difficult, as I showed in the diagram.

Consider the steps listed in the diagram in more detail:

• First, we clean the dust and wash the inside of the double-glazed window from dirt;

The glass adjoining the frame is easiest to clean from accumulations of dirt using a hard toothbrush. Glass is well washed from the most difficult contaminants by vodka applied from a spray bottle and subsequently collected with a special scraper.

• After the washed surface has dried, we glue double-sided tape along the perimeter of the frame;
• Next, trying not to get dirty, we cut the thermal film according to the size of the perimeter glued with adhesive tape;

• Gradually remove the protective tape from the adhesive tape and glue the film;

• The surface of the film will be wavy, but it doesn’t matter if we heat it with the usual one;

• After the heated film has cooled down, the surface will be perfectly smooth like glass.

The use of thermal film cannot be called innovative, since this technology was used back in Soviet times. Then the usual polyethylene oilcloth with the help of a wooden glazing bead for the winter was stuffed on the window from the outside.

And what did we get as a result? As a result of such installation, the room was darker than usual, and one could forget about the beautiful views from the window until the arrival of spring.

The use of a special shrink film is completely devoid of such disadvantages. Again, if earlier, with the onset of the warm season, the oilcloth was dismantled from the frames, today it is not necessary to do this at all, since the thermal film is absolutely transparent.

By the way, in summer, an additional air gap between the glass and the film will prevent the penetration of heat into the room.

Thermal film with the same success can be installed both on plastic double-glazed windows and on wooden windows. True, in the latter case, wooden frames will have to be pre-aligned and painted.

Thermal insulation of wooden windows

Wooden windows are installed in your apartment or house and even foam rubber insulation does not save you from the cold? Of course, you can change the old wooden structures for plastic double-glazed windows. On the other hand, you can leave environmentally friendly wooden windows, but make them much warmer.

Elimination of heat loss using Swedish technology

Now I’ll tell you how to insulate wooden windows for the winter using Swedish technology.

Many have heard something about the Swedish technology, but not everyone knows what it is. In a few words, the Swedish technology for the restoration of wooden windows is a complex work, as a result of which a wooden window in terms of thermal conductivity will be comparable to plastic double-glazed windows.

The main stages of working with old windows using Swedish technology are listed in the following diagram.

Let's consider the above steps in more detail.

• Shutters are removed from old wooden windows and carefully laid on a flat surface;
• Doors and frames are inspected for damage and contamination;
• The surface is washed, and damage to the wood is eliminated with putty;

• A groove is cut along the perimeter of the sash with a special cutter;
• Sawdust and shavings are blown out of the groove;

• A special tubular seal is inserted into the groove and rolled with a pressure roller;
• The gap at the junction of glass and wood is filled with silicone or acrylic;
• The sashes are put on the frame, after which the assembled structure is ready for operation.

If the glass in the frames has cracks or small chips, they must be changed immediately, otherwise there will be no sense from the insulation.

So, now you know what Swedish technology is. The question is, how expedient is it to do the listed work with your own hands or still order the restoration of windows to specialists?

It would seem that for a question, because specialists will have to pay, while with your own hands you can do everything for free. But, in fact, this is not the case, because you have to buy a router and a pressure roller. The price of such a tool is high and it is unprofitable to buy it in order to do window insulation once.

External thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene

Do-it-yourself wooden windows can be insulated not only from the inside, but also from the outside. The method that I’ll tell you about now is the best solution for budgetary thermal insulation of a country house.

To perform thermal insulation, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Extruded polystyrene foam (material that does not absorb water and almost does not let air through);
• Mounting foam;
• Sharp mounting knife;
• Ruler and marker.

What can be insulated with polystyrene foam? This method will allow you to seal old architraves or finish external slopes without the need for cementing. In addition, neatly executed cladding will surely decorate the facade of your home.

The instructions for performing thermal insulation are as follows:

• We measure the width of the slope;

We take into account that the width along the length of the slope on old windows can be different, so we use the largest value.

• In accordance with the measurements, we cut pieces of polystyrene foam approximately 0.5 m long;

• We apply mounting foam on the slope and apply a blank of polystyrene foam;

• We hold a piece of polystyrene foam for 1-2 minutes until the foam grabs a little, and then glue the adjacent sections of the slope in this way;

• After the inner side of the slope is pasted over, we perform similar work on the casing.

Expanded polystyrene, which is shown in the photo report, has a high density, and therefore can be used without additional finishing. However, if you choose to plaster your home, foam board trim can also be plastered over a paint grid.

You can learn about how to plaster foam boards from my relevant articles.

Conclusion

I told what I knew about the insulation of windows in the house. Do you know of any effective ways besides those listed? Tell about it in the comments to read. In addition, I recommend watching the video in this article, I think it will be interesting.

Hide

The fashion for plastic windows is transient, but the Khrushchevs are eternal. And, you see, you don’t want to spend money on installing plastic double-glazed windows in a house that is about to be demolished, but you have to live somehow.

In addition, there are people who simply do not like plastic windows, or who cannot afford their installation. This is where the age-old wisdom of our grandmothers comes to the rescue, who not only survived in much more difficult conditions of communal apartments and factory barracks, but also managed to raise us without tonsillitis, sinusitis and other acute respiratory infections.

So, a short manual on how to insulate old wooden windows, prepared by my grandmother for my mother. It was recorded in my student notebook for the 2nd grade, on the basis of which I now reproduce it as the copyright holder of this notebook.

Sealing the glass seat in the sash

Insulation of the frame around the perimeter with foam rubber

The main thing is to insulate the places where the glass joins the frame. It is these areas that are the source of drafts and subsequent hypothermia of organisms.

In the old Soviet times, putty was sold in stores for this purpose. But the goal, which is cunning for invention, also managed with ordinary plasticine.

As I remember now - dull winter days, when you don’t feel like doing homework and it’s so interesting to look at smears of plasticine around the perimeter of glasses with fingerprints of your mother’s fingers ...

But on a new round of scientific and technological progress, grandmother's tricks can be safely rejected. In stores for repairing and insulating old windows, an excellent silicone-based sealant is sold - the best panacea for drafts. The technology of its application does not require special training and includes four points:

Applying sealant with a syringe

1. The glazing beads are carefully removed (the very slats that keep the glass from falling out - look, do not break it - you will have to look for new ones!) And the glass is removed. 2. The seat is cleaned even more accurately from dirt, dust, paint residues and other foreign inclusions. 3. The groove where the glass is installed is carefully filled with sealant. It is better to do this with a mechanical syringe of the type that auto mechanics use to fill engines with oil, but any other klister-type devices will do. 4. As soon as possible, until the sealant dries, the glass is put in place and fastened with glazing beads. The procedure is completed, but as an additional measure, it is worth laying chunks of foam rubber between the glasses according to the grandmother's method. You can fix them even with glue, even with ordinary pins. Checked: Helps. 5. If you are reluctant to perform the four previous points, then you can simply fill the “sausage” of sealant around the perimeter of the glass with a syringe.

Ways to seal the gaps between the window sashes and the frame

Laying insulation in the window gap

Now we need to neutralize the gaps between the window sashes and the frame. To do this, my mother - under the supervision of my grandmother - with a screwdriver stolen from my father, purposefully hammered into these slots scraps of any rags, cotton wool, old nylon stockings and everything else that could no longer be used in any other way.

From above, these slotted deposits were pasted over with snow-white fields from newspapers (pieces with text were not good, as they spoiled the aesthetic appearance of the window).

A paste was used as glue, but it had to be boiled. Therefore, my grandmother believed that the most ordinary kefir also perfectly holds newspaper pasting. Or soapy water. Depending on the food and manufactured goods situation in the country.

Insulation of the frame with a tourniquet

Of course, in our enlightened age, old technologies need to be abandoned. To better insulate the window, you need to go to the store and buy a warming self-adhesive rubber cord, which is actually not a cord, but a hollow tube. It is necessary to remove the paper tape covering the adhesive surface of the tube from it, apply this very surface to the gap between the window sash and the frame, and push the tube into this gap. Of course, not with dad's screwdriver - it's too sharp for that, but with a special roller tool, which is also sold in the store.

Fitting harness to the frame

Instead of a cord, you can again use foam rubber. On glue. But he has a habit of tearing when opening a window, drying in untidy pieces to vertical and horizontal surfaces, as a result of which in the spring he has to be cleaned with a kitchen knife and washed out with warm water and soap.

Therefore, do not be too lazy to go to the store for an insulation cord: it will be both neater and warmer with it.

And if you are an aesthete who has a certain amount of banknotes (about 1.5 thousand per window), then you can insulate it by cutting a special groove around the entire perimeter of the sashes and laying a silicone insulation tube with the ear-sweet name "Eurostripe".

The use of alabaster as an insulating material

2 parts alabaster should be mixed with 1 part chalk

In addition to grandmother's methods of warming old wooden windows for the winter, there are also grandfather's options. Moreover, if the grandmother has an abundance of all kinds of rags and rags, then in the grandfather's stash, real building materials can also be found. For example, alabaster.

If you mix it with chalk in the proportion of two parts of alabaster to one part of chalk and dilute this mixture with water until it is similar in consistency to the same Hercules oatmeal that we loved so much in childhood, you will get an excellent viscous and fairly sticky composition.

They can cover all the cracks, joints and other vulnerabilities just like plasticine. It is impossible to open a window insulated in this way during the winter. But on the other hand, in the spring, as soon as you pull the sash, it will crumble itself, leaving, unlike foam rubber, completely clean surfaces that do not need to be scraped or washed.

Alabaster putty is great for window insulation

Like this! Armed with old but faithful grandmother's recipes, grandfather's alabaster, father's screwdriver instead of a spatula, mother's old tights instead of rags and a rubber cord purchased at the nearest building supply store, you can reliably and, most importantly, environmentally friendly insulate your lair from northern winds and window drafts. take care of your health and that of your loved ones!

And keep in mind that all these manipulations are best done not when white flies fly from the sky, but while yellow leaves are still on the trees: at a positive temperature, you won’t catch a cold, insulating the windows of your home, and all sorts of adhesive and sealing substances will grab faster, for better grip and better sealing.