Cultivation of Persian cyclamen by seeds. Features of growing cyclamen from seeds. Photos, as well as typical methods for propagating and improving the health of a flower. Transplantation to a permanent place

Cyclamen reproduces in many ways. But you need to choose the most optimal one based on the type of plant. So:

  1. - an option for both types of plants, but you need to take only mature crops.
  2. Sowing seeds– can be used for growing any species, even ivy.
  3. Rosettes– this method is applicable only for the European species, since the shoots of Persian cyclamen do not take root well.
  4. Tubers daughters- an excellent option for breeding a European flower, only this species produces small children around the main tuber. When transplanting, they are separated without effort and placed in a separate pot.

Important: some gardeners mistakenly think that cyclamen can be used. But, unfortunately, this is impossible, since such cuttings do not produce roots, they stand for a long time, and then they simply dry out.

We discussed all methods of propagation of cyclamen in detail in.

How to collect seed material?

Many people choose the easiest way to propagate cyclamen - buy seeds in the store. But if you already have a flowering plant at home, then you can collect seeds from it.

A flower will not produce seeds until it has undergone pollination.. Cyclamen itself cannot do this, so you need to start collecting pollen, then arm yourself with a brush and cross-pollinate. This is a creative process, because if you take two plants of different colors for pollination, you will get a new, attractive hybrid with an original color.

The natural flowering period of cyclamen is from December to February, at which time pollination takes place. This process is best done on a sunny morning. Pollen can be collected by gently tapping the flower; pollen will begin to fall out of it, which must be placed on the pistil of a neighboring plant.

You can also use a brush to collect pollen and smear the middle of another flower. To be completely sure, you need to do this at least 5-7 times. If pollination is successful, the flowering process quickly stops, and in place of the flower a small, round box is formed, in which small, round, light brown seeds ripen. The capsule cannot be removed from the plant; the seeds will ripen in 90 to 140 days. At this time, the plant needs to be provided with a comfortable temperature - +20 degrees during the day, +12 degrees at night.

What should you expect from homemade cyclamen seeds? Such seeds do not lose their ability to germinate for a long time - 3 years. It is worth noting an interesting fact that if you let the seeds sit for a year and a half, the plant from these seeds will bloom much faster.

Features of cultivation

To grow cyclamen from seeds at home, you need to know some of the features of this process.:

  • Shoots will appear in about 30 days, but only if the air temperature during germination is +15 degrees. If this indicator is exceeded by several degrees, then the seeds can take up to three months to wake up.
  • By using several types of plant seeds, you can create a luxurious flower garden of healthy plants on your windowsill.
  • You can sow seeds throughout the year, but for better crop growth it is better to adhere to the biological rhythms of the plant and sow in spring or late summer.
  • It is better to grow cyclamen from seeds in a dark room.

Preparing for sowing

The flower loves light and nutritious soil. It can be found in the store, where they sell soil mixture specifically for this crop. But if there is none, you can buy soil for Saintpaulia.

But if you prefer to do everything yourself, you can prepare the soil by mixing equal proportions:

  • turf land;
  • leaf soil;
  • humus;
  • sand.

Once the soil is prepared, you can begin preparing the seed material., otherwise they will take a very long time to wake up:

  1. Soak the seeds for 18 hours in any growth stimulant, for this you can use Etamon, Zircon, Epi-extra. The drug is sold in flower shops and should be diluted strictly according to the instructions.
  2. Sometimes the seeds are soaked in potassium permanganate - the solution should be weak, or simply in warm water. The seeds are soaked for 14 hours.
  3. If you plan to breed cyclamens, then at the seed preparation stage, divide them into several groups and use different processing methods. Subsequently, you can choose the best option for yourself.

Choosing the right pot

The development and flowering of cyclamen directly depends on the chosen pot in which the plant will grow. The pot should be washed small, relative to the tuber itself, that is, the distance between the walls of the pot and the bulb should be no more than 3 cm. Cyclamen is capable of flowering only in very cramped conditions.

Soil requirements

The soil must meet the requirements of the plant - light, nutritious, loose. They often buy it in a store, since in city conditions it is difficult to prepare the soil mixture yourself.

Planting: step-by-step instructions

  1. To plant seeds, it is better to use an opaque container, into which soil is poured in a layer of 5-6 cm and compacted well. Then the seeds are laid out on the surface at a distance of 2 cm from each other, and sprinkled with a centimeter layer of peat and sand, mixed in equal quantities and watered well.
  2. Cover the container with the same opaque lid or black film to create a greenhouse effect. For rapid germination, the seeds are placed in a room with an air temperature of no more than +15 degrees, and the room should be dark.
  3. Seeds take a very long time to germinate; the first shoots can be seen only after a month. This is due to the fact that first a root appears from the seed, on which a tuber begins to form. And only then purple-pink loops begin to appear from it.
  4. During germination, sometimes a difficulty arises - the plant cannot unfold the first leaf due to the seed skin, which it is not able to shed. This usually occurs from a lack of humidity, so it is advisable to monitor this carefully.
  5. If this problem worries you greatly, then you can help the plant open its first leaf - place a soaked cotton pad on the sprout and after 2 hours, carefully remove the seed with tweezers.

Attention: Shoots have appeared - it’s time to move the container with seedlings to a bright place, but not in direct sunlight.

We recommend watching a video about planting cyclamen seeds:

Plant care

Cyclamen is a very capricious flower that requires a certain temperature, humidity and lighting. Therefore, if you are not ready to regularly and carefully care for the plant, then it is better not to have this flower in your home, it will die.

First of all, in order for the plant to develop well, producing healthy leaves and flowers, it must be placed on the “correct” windowsill, which should be light and sunny. Do not forget that Cyclamen is very light-loving. But in this case there is one nuance that is often difficult to accomplish, especially in the summer. Cyclamen loves light and coolness. The most optimal temperature for the plant is +6-13 degrees. Maximum – +17 degrees.

For good flowering, the room in which cyclamen grows must be constantly ventilated.. At the same time, make sure that there are no drafts - they are detrimental to the plant.

Watering greatly affects the growth and development of the plant:

  • During flowering, water the crop abundantly and make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but the flower does not tolerate stagnation of water. At this time, spraying is carried out 3 times a day.
  • As soon as the plant fades, reduce watering, but not too much; in any case, the soil should not dry out.
  • Water the plant with settled water at room temperature.

We recommend watching a video about proper care of cyclamen:

Moisturizing young shoots

The soil in which young Cyclamen seedlings grow is moistened daily with a spray bottle.. You can buy a small watering can with a strainer at the end.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that Cyclamen is very demanding to care for, it can often be found on apartment windowsills. The beauty of the flowers of this plant completely compensates for the complexity of agricultural technology. It is worth noting that if you have a desire to grow Cyclamen, it is better to do it from seeds, since a flower bought in a store may not tolerate a sudden change in environment and die.

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It is quite rare to meet people who are indifferent to indoor plants. They usually explain their indifference by being too busy. However, among the majority of even very busy people there are avid flower growers who can boast of amazing collections of all kinds of plants, often grown with their own hands. And one of their favorite plants is cyclamen, which has about 15 species in nature. His homeland is the Mediterranean.

Only two types are widely used in indoor floriculture: and European. The difference between them lies in the size of the flowers: the Persian variety has them much larger than the European variety. A herbaceous perennial plant with a tuberous root is cyclamen; its propagation is not difficult, but requires knowledge of some nuances that must be followed to achieve success in growing this beautiful flower.

This compact plant is distinguished by dark green leaves with silvery pearlescent heart-shaped stains, collected in a basal rosette, not very large flowers, reaching a length of up to five centimeters, located on thin long peduncles and rising above a rosette of very attractive leaves. The variety of shades is amazing: purple, red, pink, white, lilac, and each color is presented in a spectrum of tonalities of different saturation. The structure of the flower is similar to a butterfly, and since there are several of them rising above the leaves, it gives the impression of a flock of butterflies fluttering over the bush. And if you consider that flowering occurs in the autumn-winter period, which is poor in colors, then this is a truly enchanting sight.

and reproduction

Cyclamen is propagated in two ways: by seeds and by dividing the tuber. But it should be noted here that it is not recommended to propagate using the second method, since after dividing the tuber the plant quite often dies. Therefore, it is more often propagated by seeds, especially since cyclamens grown in this way acclimatize better in room conditions than “Dutch” greenhouse ones.

Seeds are sown at the end of the summer season, when the temperature ranges between 15-20ºС and after 15-18 months, most of the Persian cyclamen varieties begin to delight with their abundant and long-lasting flowering.

Cyclamen. Reproduction

To obtain seeds during the flowering period, artificial pollination of flowers is carried out, which is best started on one of the sunny days in January. And this is done like this: fold your fingers, as if preparing to make a click, and make a click-like movement several times with your middle finger on the peduncle, you will notice how the pollen spills out in the form of a weightless cloud, or shake off pollen from several flowers using a match onto the nail and dip the pistil into the pollen so that it sticks to the stigma.

Pollination is carried out for five to seven days in a row. If the flower is fertilized, it quickly fades, its stem bends and hangs down, and after a few days a seed pod appears. Cyclamen, the reproduction of which requires certain conditions (it must be kept in a well-lit place at a daytime temperature of 18°C, night temperature should not exceed 12-14°C) is very beautiful. seeds from April to May. When the capsule begins to ripen, it withers and cracks, so as not to lose the seeds, the capsules are removed a little earlier and left to ripen.

Cyclamen. Propagation by seeds

It is believed that seeds can be sown at any time, the main thing is that the temperature should correspond to 15-18 degrees, but it is better at the end of summer.

  • The seeds are pre-soaked for swelling in Epin or Zircon.
  • Sow in nutritious loose soil to a depth of 1 cm.
  • The container is kept in a dark place until germination, without excessively waterlogging the soil, only spraying as necessary.
  • The temperature is maintained within 18-20°C for a fairly long period, approximately from one to six months.
  • When shoots appear, the container is moved to a bright place, but protected from direct sunlight.
  • In the phase of the first pair of leaves, the seedlings dive into separate pots. Young seedlings very quickly grow nodules and continue to develop, but they need to be regularly sprayed with water and fertilized with care, very moderately.

Cyclamen, the cultivation of which is quite a painstaking task, will begin to amaze with its unique flowering in just a year and a half. As they grow, the plants are transferred several times to slightly larger diameter pots, making sure that the tubers are not buried 1/3 into the soil, but rise above it.

I decided to grow cyclamen from seeds after another flower I bought did not survive the summer dormant period. And I wasn’t the only one who faced this problem. Other flower growers also complained about this state of affairs. The fact is that cyclamen grown in greenhouse conditions finds it difficult to adapt to the home environment that is normal for us. Conversely, cyclamen, which initially grew in an ordinary city apartment or private house, from birth was accustomed to sometimes too dry air and high temperatures in the summer, and therefore should not die. So, how to grow cyclamen from seeds? How to plant seeds? Conditions for germination and subsequent care of seedlings. Personal, mostly successful experience and photo instructions.

Cyclamen: growing from seeds

How to grow cyclamen from seeds? I’ll say right away that for this you need a greenhouse, loose soil, a temperature no higher than +20 degrees and constant air humidity. But first things first. Before I started planting seeds, I read the opinions of experts on authoritative forums. This is what I gleaned from the information I read. Firstly, you need to germinate cyclamen seeds at a temperature of +17...+18 degrees. Secondly, young seedlings must grow and develop at the same temperature. Thirdly, the plants need to be provided with regular watering, but the soil in the greenhouse should not become waterlogged.

But this immediately begs a few questions. First, will an ordinary gardener be able to constantly monitor the temperature of seed germination and keep it within the required limits? The second question is, what will happen if cyclamen seeds are germinated at normal room temperature? The third question is that the temperature of seedling development should also be within +17...+18 degrees, but this cannot be achieved in an ordinary city apartment, especially in the summer. How will summer high temperatures affect seedlings?

With a great desire to test everything in practice and with an even greater desire to grow cyclamen from seeds, I went to a flower shop and bought four identical bags of Persian cyclamen seeds.

In the photo you can see that the cyclamen seeds are quite large (slightly larger than a match head) and covered with a dense skin. That is why it is recommended to soak them in water at room temperature before planting. I soaked the seed in a root solution at room temperature for 1 hour. As I have already written in many of my articles, I do not completely cover any seeds with water, but only up to half, so that the seed embryo does not suffocate. The seeds are periodically mixed so that the dense shell is evenly moistened.

When to sow cyclamen seeds? Experts recommend planting cyclamen seeds in February-March. By the time the seed sprouts, the daylight hours will be sufficient for the successful development of seedlings. I sowed cyclamen seeds on March 7th.

How to plant cyclamen seeds? Planting cyclamen seeds followed the standard scheme. I took two identical greenhouses, which I cut out of ordinary plastic bottles. This is not the first time I have used a similar version of a greenhouse and have never regretted it. I poured soil there for blooming, indoor flowers, tamped it down lightly, and moistened it with a spray bottle. I spread cyclamen seeds on a flat surface of the soil. In the photo you can see that I laid out 10 of them in each greenhouse. I did not cover the seeds with soil to make it easier to monitor their germination. Many forums say that cyclamen seeds need to be germinated in the dark. But this is not a necessary condition.

How to grow cyclamen from seeds? To successfully grow cyclamen from seeds and obtain healthy seedlings, you need: bright, diffused light, moderate air humidity (achieved only in a greenhouse) and temperature. The forums say that the temperature should be within +17...+18 degrees. As the temperature rises, cyclamen seeds fall into suspended animation (in other words, hibernation) and do not germinate for a long time. So, at a temperature of +17...+18 degrees, the seed germinates in 3-4 weeks. At +20 degrees after 8 weeks. At temperatures above +20 degrees, seedlings can wait up to 4 months.

An experiment on growing cyclamen from seeds at home

I decided to test in practice how temperature affects the germination of cyclamen. That is why I bought four bags of seeds with the same packaging date. That is, the date of packaging (freshness of the seed) should not affect its germination in any way. The landing followed the same pattern. The greenhouses are the same, the soil and its humidity, lighting are similar. Only the temperature was different. So, I placed one greenhouse on the windowsill, where the temperature fluctuates between +17...+22 degrees. The temperature for the second greenhouse was kept within strict limits of +17...+18 degrees.

Sowing of cyclamen seeds took place on March 7. The results of the experiment surprised me somewhat. Thus, the seed, which was germinated at a temperature of +17...+18 degrees, hatched on March 21, that is, 14 days after sowing. The seeds, which were kept at a temperature of +17...+22 degrees, sprouted on March 29, that is, 22 days after planting.

Based on the data obtained, we can conclude: the favorable temperature regime for growing cyclamen from seeds is +17...+18 degrees. Minor temperature deviations from the set regime (+17...+22 degrees) affect the germination of seed, but not significantly. So, my fellow flower growers, don’t worry too much about the temperature of seed germination. The main thing is not to raise it above +22 degrees.

How to grow cyclamen seedlings?

So, my cyclamens from seeds have hatched. What to do next? Based on my experience, I want to say that you need to wait until the cyclamen straightens its only leaf. A sprout first emerges from the achene. It develops a root system, a tuber and just one leaf. The cyclamen leaf remains under the dense shell of the seed for some time. You cannot clean the greenhouse until the leaf sheds this shell. Let me remind you that it is very dense. In a humid greenhouse, the seed coat softens. If you remove the greenhouse, the shell will harden at room humidity, and it will be difficult for the leaf to get rid of it. If you try to remove it yourself, you can damage the leaf and the plant will not fully develop without it.

You cannot remove the greenhouse until the cyclamen leaves shed their seed coat.

How to care for cyclamen seedlings? The seedlings continue to develop in the greenhouse, where there is moderate air and soil humidity. Watering is carried out as needed. But since cyclamen seedlings grow in a greenhouse, I don’t water the soil often. The soil must not be allowed to dry out completely. Overmoistening of the soil leads to rotting of the tuber and the plant dies. I ventilated the greenhouse 2 times a day. My cyclamen stood on the window on the east side of the apartment, where the sun shines from morning until 15:00. I didn't feed it. The first time I applied fertilizer, when I removed the greenhouse, the cyclamens completely straightened their leaves. This happened on the middle of May 10, that is, almost 2 months after planting the seeds.

After the cyclamen forms a tuber and spreads the first leaf, it stops growing. But only its above-ground part stops growing. Over the next 1-2 months, the seedling builds up its root system. Since the walls of my greenhouse are transparent, I could watch how the roots of my cyclamen plants gradually filled all the soil offered to them. And so on June 27, I decided to pick seedlings. It seemed to me that my plants were already cramped in the greenhouse.

Picking cyclamen seedlings

Picking cyclamen seedlings was carried out according to the following scheme: soil for flowering plants (loose, light, nutritious, neutral pH), opaque plastic cups of 200 ml. Two days before the picking, I watered the cyclamens well.

So, we take a regular 200 ml plastic cup and make a drainage hole in its bottom. Next, pour soil there and water it. First we make a small depression in the soil, where the plants will subsequently be transferred.

Next, using a spatula (I make it from thick plastic, cut out a small square and bend it in half) I carefully remove one cyclamen from the common greenhouse. You need to remove the young seedling with as much soil as possible around the roots. Cyclamen may have a small tuber, but the root system is quite developed. If you violate the latter, the flower will hurt for a long time.

Important note!!! When replanting cyclamen, you need to remember that if the tuber is too deep, the plant will die. Tubers in wet soil may rot. The correct decision when picking cyclamen seedlings is to leave the tuber in the new pot at the same level at which it developed in the greenhouse.

The selection of cyclamen seedlings was carried out in the summer, and therefore I decided to give my flowers the opportunity to breathe fresh air and took them out to the balcony. It is located on the western side of the house, there is direct sun only in the afternoon. I solved this problem by shading. After transplanting, I waited until the soil dried out a little and only after that I watered the seedlings for the first time. Subsequently, watering was carried out after the top layer of soil had dried to a depth of 1-1.5 cm. Until mid-June, cyclamen seedlings grew at a temperature of +27 during the day and up to +20 at night.

In July, the temperature rose to +32 degrees during the day, and at night to +25 degrees, and I moved my cyclamen to the apartment on the western windows. Before lunch there was artificial lighting, after - diffused sunlight. Fertilize once a week with half the concentration of complex, liquid fertilizers. Spray once a day. But my plants did not like the high temperature and went to rest. The cyclamen leaves turned yellow and withered, but at the same time the tuber remained elastic. I left the cups with flowers under the phytolamp. Watering was carried out after the soil had dried thoroughly.

This went on for almost two months. But in the middle of September, when the temperature in the apartment dropped to +20...+22 degrees, which is comfortable for cyclamen, a miracle happened and my seedlings woke up. Each tuber began to produce two or even four leaves. I resumed watering, although now it was less than in the summer. Fertilizing is applied once every two weeks and lighting is required from morning (7.00 am) until evening (20.00).

Cyclamen (dryberry, earthen radish, earthen bread) is a decorative perennial about 15 cm high. The rhizome is tuberous. Long-petioled, heart-shaped leaves are collected in basal rosettes.

The flowers are drooping, located on long stalks, which after flowering twist in a spiral. The corolla is five-parted, the lobes are slightly bent. The color of the flower can be purple, pink, white. The countries of Asia Minor and the Mediterranean are considered the homeland of cyclamen.

Cyclamen after purchase

It’s done: you have purchased a beautiful cyclamen or been given it as a gift. it looks great, completely covered in flowers, and is a little scary to disturb. But if you delay the transshipment, you can lose this handsome man or he will simply get sick, losing all his attractiveness.

Therefore, gather your courage and carry out a simple procedure of transferring the plant from a pot with temporary soil into a new spacious pot with nutritious soil (we use universal soil for flowering plants).

The video will tell you about transshipment of cyclamen after purchase:

Conditions for growing cyclamen at home

The state of cyclamen directly depends on the temperature regime: it grows actively when it is cool and humid, and when the temperature rises, it begins to prepare for a dormant period. During the heating season, this feature makes caring for cyclamen difficult. But having overcome all the vagaries of this plant, you will enjoy bright flowering for many years.

Watering

The main rule with cyclamen is accuracy and moderation. The earthen ball cannot be over-moistened or over-dried. A flower can often be affected by root rot, so it is better to use bottom watering: place the pot with the plant in a pan of water and remove it after 15 minutes. You can pour water from above, but in small portions, moving along the edge of the pot. During the flowering period, you need to water a little more abundantly. After flowering, watering is reduced, and by the dormant period (begins in March) it is stopped altogether.

Thermal and light conditions

Do not keep cyclamen near heat sources - this will cause the leaves to drop and go into dormancy mode. Maintain moisture. You can place a tray with wet pebbles or an aquarium near the plant. Spray occasionally until buds appear.

Direct sunlight causes burns to the plant. Cyclamen needs diffused light or partial shade. The best option would be western or eastern window sills. On northern windows, the flower will suffer from a lack of light, and on southern windows, shading is necessary.

Soil

For normal growth, cyclamen needs nutritious, drained soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. You can prepare an earth mixture from turf, leaf soil, humus and sand in equal proportions. Soil acidity can be determined using special test strips.

You need to stir a pinch of earth in water, wait until a precipitate appears, and dip a test strip into the resulting solution. Check the result with the scale on the packaging. In the absence of such test strips, you can determine the approximate acidity by reacting with vinegar - pour it on a handful of soil. If there are few bubbles, then the reaction is neutral; if there are many, the soil is alkaline; if there are none at all, the soil is acidic.

You don’t have to worry and buy ready-made soil for cyclamen or just a universal soil, available in any specialized store.

How to make cyclamen bloom

Necessary conditions for cyclamen flowering:

  • the size of the pot must be suitable: in a spacious or cramped container, flowering will be slowed down;
  • sufficient amount of nutrients;
  • suitable soil acidity;
  • correct planting: when planting Persian cyclamen, you need to leave the top of the tuber above the ground, for other types - bury the roots completely;
  • it is necessary to ensure a period of rest and proper exit from it.

Start feeding cyclamen. For leaf growth, apply complex mineral fertilizers every two weeks. With the appearance of buds, reduce the dose of nitrogen, and the amount of potassium and phosphorus should be slightly increased.

Growing cyclamen from seeds

Cyclamen can be propagated by seeds and by dividing the tuber.

It is better to purchase seeds at a flower shop, paying attention to their expiration date, because they are viable for up to 2 years.

How to collect seeds?

To collect seeds at home, you need to pollinate the plant yourself. Using a cotton swab or brush, transfer pollen from one flower to another, carry out pollination on sunny days in the morning, it is better to repeat the procedure several times. It is recommended to store ripe seeds for a couple of months. Then soak them in Zircon and sow.

How to prepare zircon seeds for sowing, watch the video:

How to sow

  • To do this, use a mixture of peat or leaf soil with vermiculite in equal proportions.
  • It is enough to spread the seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them with a thin layer of soil.
  • It is necessary to maintain a temperature of 20º C; at a higher temperature, the seeds will go into hibernation, and at a lower temperature, there is a high probability of rotting.
  • Periodically moisten and ventilate the plantings.

  • After 4-6 weeks, shoots will begin to appear. After this, the bowl with the seedlings should be placed in a well-lit place without direct sunlight, maintain the air temperature at 15-17º C.

  • When the seedlings have small tubers and the plants grow, transplant them into separate containers.
  • A week after transplantation, you need to apply mineral fertilizers, reducing the dose by half from that indicated on the package.

Plants need to be handled carefully, trying not to disturb the integrity of the root system. Do not bury the tubers; leave the planting level the same as before transplanting. This way the flower will develop correctly and will not be susceptible to various diseases or growth inhibition.

This video will tell you about growing cyclamen from seeds:

Cyclamens will bloom in a year and a half. But flowering can begin much later - after 3-4 years. Keen flower growers are not upset: the longer you wait for the result, the more pleasant it is to reap the fruits of your labor. And the flowering of the beautiful cyclomen is worth the effort!

Propagation of cyclamen by dividing the tuber

  • In spring or summer (during the plant's dormant period), dig the tuber out of the ground and cut it into pieces so that each section has a bud and roots.
  • Dry the sections and treat them with fungicide or crushed charcoal.
  • Plant the cuttings in separate pots and place them in a greenhouse or cover them with a plastic cup.
  • When choosing tubers for planting in the store, pay attention to their condition: they should be elastic, not wrinkled, and without rotten spots.

Replanting cyclamen

  • It is better not to replant a flowering plant, as this may destroy it.
  • It is ideal to transplant at the beginning of the active growing season (August-September). That is, after a period of dormancy, when leaves begin to appear.
  • The new pot should be slightly larger than the old one.
  • Be sure to lay drainage from crushed crushed stone and expanded clay.
  • Before planting, it is advisable to water the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
  • Tubers of Persian cyclamen are buried 2/3 into the soil, and all the rest - completely.
  • Place the transplanted plant in a warm, bright place, increasing watering as new leaves grow.

The video will tell you how to transplant cyclamen:

Cyclamen dormant period

  • By the end of spring and beginning of summer, after the end of flowering, cyclamen will begin a dormant period.
  • Wilted flowers and leaves need to be trimmed, watering reduced to a minimum, preventing the soil from completely drying out.
  • The pot with the tuber should be placed or placed on its side in a cool place with good ventilation. Store this way until autumn.
  • At the beginning of autumn, you need to bring the plant out of hibernation - take it out into the light and gradually increase watering.

How the cyclomen falls asleep, look at the video:

Why does cyclamen turn yellow and what to do?

Cyclamen is a capricious plant; it reacts sharply to errors in care. Cyclamen leaves may turn yellow for the following reasons:

An attack by the cyclamen mite is indicated by the ugly shape of the leaves, they become hard, the plant’s growth stops, the flower stalks become bent, and the flowers wither. Conventional insecticides will not help here. The plant will have to be destroyed.

Due to overdrying or waterlogging of the earthen clod in combination with low temperatures, flower stalks can grow shorter than the leaves and bloom under them.

Gray rot appears from waterlogged cold air and poor ventilation. The leaves turn yellow and become covered with gray mold. Infected parts of the plant must be carefully removed (mold spores spread through the air when moving). Treat with fungicide. For prevention, reduce watering and ventilate the room.

A sharp wilting of leaves and a putrid smell of the root system indicate the appearance of wet rot. There is no escape from it. Infection occurs through contaminated water or another diseased plant.

The fungal disease fusarium affects the vascular system of the plant. It manifests itself as yellowing of the leaves, usually on one side of the plant. Over time, the disease spreads completely. In the initial stages, you can save it with special preparations from a flower shop.

Types of cyclamen with photos and names

The genus Cyclamen (Cyclamen L.) consists of 15 species. Let's look at the most common ones in indoor floriculture.

Persian cyclamen Cyclamen persicum

A native of the Eastern Mediterranean. The leaves are heart-shaped, dark green with a marbled pattern. Flowers can be simple or double, ranging in color from white to all sorts of shades of red. Flowering begins in September. The rest period lasts 2 months: May-June.

European cyclamen or blushing, purple Cyclamen purpurascens

Its natural habitat is Central and Southern Europe. This species is also called alpine violet. Interestingly, flowers emit aroma depending on the color of the flower: the darker the shade, the stronger the aroma. It is the only species that does not shed its leaves during hibernation.

Cyclamen Kos or Caucasian cyclamen coum subsp. caucasicum

It was first found on the island of Kos, after which it was named. It is also found in the Caucasus. A distinctive feature of the species is the petals, which sharply widen from the base, and also have a dark spot on them.

Cyclamen ivy or Neapolitan Cyclamen hederifolium

The leaves have notched-toothed edges, making them similar to ivy leaves. Flowers appear before leaves in September and November.

In indoor floriculture, the most popular is Persian cyclamen. Many varieties have been bred from it, divided according to the height of the peduncles into low-growing (up to 15 cm), medium-growing (15-22 cm) and standard (20-30 cm).

The most popular varieties of homemade cyclamen:

Spring Moth, Scarlet Moth, Charlie, Rose, Lilu, Flamingo, Topaz, Selphide, Rembrant, Bellissima, Elf.