So that the parquet does not lose its natural luxury: the rules for operating and caring for the parquet floor. How to lay a parquet board: methods and technology for the correct laying of a parquet board Preparatory stage of work

From this article you will learn:

• What are the ways of laying a parquet board?
• How to lay parquet board yourself

Repairs in Moscow must be taken seriously. It is necessary to clearly define the type of flooring that you would like.

Using parquet as flooring is not only a good way to declare your wealth and status. It is also an opportunity to demonstrate to others that you have excellent taste. In addition, parquet as a coating is very reliable, environmentally friendly and has a long service life. Previously, in order to lay parquet, it was necessary to work hard, while possessing certain skills. Now, thanks to the appearance of a massive parquet board, everything has become somewhat easier. If you follow the recommendations of experts, then the process of laying it will not be too difficult for you. Today we will talk about how to lay a parquet board.

At the moment, there are two types of parquet boards on sale: massive and multi-layered. The difference between them is in the way they are made.

• massive parquet boards are made from different types of wood, both deciduous and coniferous. But to create it, a single piece of wood is taken. Grooves and ridges are made along the ends of the board.
• In the manufacture multilayer Several types of wood are used in parquet boards, each with its own advantages. Thanks to this combination, a parquet board with high performance is obtained at the output. So, the top layer of parquet is made from solid and precious woods, because it will be “responsible” for the appearance of the floor. The middle layer of the plates is placed at an angle of 90 degrees to the top, using soft wood. The purpose of this layer is to act as a connecting element both for this particular panel and for its neighbors. The material for the bottom layer is plywood, as well as pine or spruce lamellas up to 4 mm thick.

The parquet board for laying goes on sale only after applying a special coating and impregnation to it, which protects it from rotting and the formation of fungus. Keep in mind: whether the board is multi-layered or massive, its service life depends not only on the production technology and storage rules, but also on the correct installation. You cannot influence the first and second in any way, but the third point can be easily controlled. Or even do the laying of the parquet board yourself.

But for such a flooring to be durable and serve you for a long time, it is not enough to be able to work well with your hands. It is necessary to carry out some kind of preparatory work. It is also necessary to strictly observe all the conditions of the technological process. What points should be paid attention to first of all?

• Firstly, inspect the base on which the parquet board will be laid. All sorts of cracks, crevices and indentations are unacceptable. The base must necessarily be flat and solid, and also without a significant difference in height. 2 mm per linear meter is the maximum that can be tolerated. A base that does not meet the requirements should be repaired or completely remade.
• Secondly, the parquet board should "adapt" to your apartment - more precisely, to its microclimate. Therefore, after acquiring a board, it is not recommended to immediately begin work on laying it. Wait at least two days.
• Thirdly, an important condition for the successful laying of parquet boards is the level of humidity in the room. High humidity adversely affects this material, and therefore you should not lay parquet in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen.
• Fourth, again about humidity. During operation, it is desirable to observe a certain level of it (from 35 to 65 percent). The temperature must be at least 18 degrees Celsius. Compliance with these conditions will allow the coating to become more durable and increase its service life.
• And the last by list, but not by value. When laying a parquet board, in no case should you forget about the substrate and waterproofing. Moreover, the features of the premises and the foundation do not play a role here, this must be done in any case.

Also, one little tip: do not lay the parquet board perpendicular to the rays of light. In this case, shadows will be clearly visible at the joints.

How to lay parquet board in different ways

Well-known manufacturing companies (Barlinek, Tarkett, Kahrs and others) are constantly trying to improve their products. Moreover, they work not only on the appearance of products, but also on methods that can significantly facilitate the installation process. All new lock systems are produced. There are several main types:

1. A connection considered classic when the spikes enter the grooves.
2. The planks are connected at an angle of 10-30 degrees, after which, by pressing the plates, they are fastened together.
3. This is a volumetric fixation system. There are several types of them, names and basic characteristics may not coincide, but the principle of connecting elements is the same. A “tongue” made of dense PVC or aluminum is built into the end lock. Otherwise, it may just be an additional insert. Be that as it may, but thanks to such a fixation, the entire hitch becomes more rigid and durable, and the service life of the parquet increases. Also, this system prevents the divergence of the slats due to seasonal changes in the environment.

Depending on which locking system is present on the products, the method of laying parquet boards is also chosen. When purchasing flooring material, be sure to check if detailed installation instructions are available. If the product is of high quality, it must be attached to the packaging.

How to assemble a multi-layer wooden coating?

There are several methods most popular:

• Laying parquet boards on logs.
• Fastening with nails.
• Laying on a rough wooden floor.
• glue method.
• A floating method in which parquet boards are connected with a lock.

The locking system has recently been used most often. This method of laying parquet boards is convenient for both large and small rooms. Glue, on the contrary, is used less and less in such works. The fact is that laying parquet in this way is a very laborious work, taking a lot of time and requiring perseverance.

Massive parquet is attached to the subfloor mainly with nails. But this method is gradually becoming a thing of the past. If you put parquet boards on logs, the distance between the latter should not exceed 30-40 cm, and this is not very profitable financially. And the process itself is also quite laborious. But one of the advantages of the floating method of laying parquet boards is that all the work can be done by hand.

To decide which styling method is best for you, let's take a closer look at some of them.

floating way

Many people have a poor idea of ​​how to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor using this method. Let's sort it out in order. Initially, plywood sheets 20 mm thick are rigidly attached to the floor. A waterproofing is placed on top, which can be used as polyethylene in 200 microns. It is necessary that the entire surface be covered with waterproofing. To do this, polyethylene is overlapped, with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The joints are glued with tape. The film should also go onto the walls - by about 10-15 cm. Dense polyethylene foam, polystyrene foam or cork mats should be placed on top of the waterproofing. In the first case, the substrate, as well as waterproofing, is overlapped and glued with adhesive tape. In the second and third mats should be placed end to end, but apart.

Sheets of plywood should also be laid apart, leaving a distance of up to 5 mm between them. From the walls should be 10-15 mm. Parquet floors in a room can be installed in two ways: parallel and diagonal. In the latter case, the material will need a little more. Before you start laying parquet boards, make all the necessary calculations: how much material is needed, which direction will be optimal. It is necessary to plan everything so that the plates in the last row do not seem too narrow compared to the rest. Connect parquet boards with spikes and grooves intended for them. Remember that between the wall and the parquet you need to leave a distance for the expansion of the material by 1.5-3 cm.

When laying the first row of boards, remove the spikes from them directed towards the wall. Direct the spike of the next die at an acute angle into the groove of the previous one, lay the board on the base and use a hammer (through the bar!) to achieve a tight connection with the neighbor. Place wedges between the first row and the wall.

When laying the second row of parquet boards, offset the end seams by a third of the length of the plank. This is called side-by-side mounting. To start, make the first board in the second row shorter by 1/3. Assemble the row completely, then dock with the first. Also, insert the spikes of the boards into the grooves at an acute angle and seal the joint by tapping it through the bar with a hammer.

By the way, the step of the run can be chosen at your discretion. But if you decide to make it just like that, then the first board in the third row needs to be shortened already by 2/3 of the length. In the fourth row, all the dies are of their original size. In the future, follow the same cycle of laying parquet boards.

Most likely, you will have to saw off the last row of dies to the desired width. When doing this, do not forget to leave a distance between the parquet and the wall. After that, remove the wedges and attach the skirting boards, under which the expansion gaps will not be visible.

One important nuance. For greater strength of the joints, the grooves between the boards can be glued. But, on the other hand, if you need to replace one of the boards, this will cause certain difficulties.

Adhesive

With this method of laying parquet boards, you first need to firmly screw moisture-resistant plywood to the screed. Then, with a notched trowel, glue is applied to it, preferably two-component polyurethane. When working with glue, keep in mind that it is toxic, although it is completely safe for humans after drying. Small sheets of the substrate are laid apart on a concrete base. The distance between them and the walls should be no more than 5 mm. Further, all parquet boards are planted on the glue - according to the same technology as with the floating laying method.

Before starting work, it is best to draw a diagram, according to which in the future you will glue parquet boards to plywood. The difference from the previous laying method is that the boards are not assembled in rows, but are joined one at a time. Glue must be applied both to plywood and to dies, the grooves at the ends of the boards must also be filled with this composition.

Then we act according to the principle described earlier: we attach the board with the help of a lock to the previous one, align and compact it with a hammer and a wooden block. We additionally strengthen the panels with pneumatic nails in the groove, but in such a way as not to interfere with the connection. Glue will appear on the surface, it should be removed immediately. We fill the distance between the walls and the parquet with cork. After that, we prime the entire surface of the floor, cover it with oil and wax or varnish. We attach skirting boards along the walls.

This method of laying parquet boards is mainly used for rooms with a large area.

With fasteners

How to properly lay a parquet board using this method? Just as with floating laying, waterproofing and insulation of the concrete screed is necessary. Boards are connected in the same way. The only difference is that you can put dies with a thickness of more than 20 mm. It is permissible to fix the parquet both to the wooden base lying on the logs, and to the logs themselves. If you decide to use the latter option, then keep in mind: the logs must be wide enough so that the joints of the parquet boards can easily fit in their middle. The optimal distance between the lags is from 30 to 40 cm.

They are fastened to the concrete base through the insulation strictly horizontally, using self-tapping screws with dowels. The dies are connected to the lags with nails or self-tapping screws, the length of which exceeds the thickness of the boards by 2-2.5 times. So that nothing interferes with the installation, they must be installed in the grooves of the boards at an angle of 45 degrees.

How to lay a parquet board with your own hands

To work, you need to have the following available:

1. Waterproofing film with a thickness of 200 microns.
2. Combined or coniferous PE substrate, 2-3 mm thick. Another one will do, but the manufacturer must be the same as that of the parquet.
3. A bar to compact the boards, a mallet.
4. Tool to fix joints (for laying parquet board with 5G locks).
5. A metal staple or wringer for laying the last row.
6. Adhesive sealant, carpentry or PVA.
7. Plastic wedges for gaps between parquet and walls.
8. Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
9. Construction pencil, tape measure and square.
10. Level and hygrometer.
11. Adhesive or reinforcing primer.
12. If necessary, then a notched trowel, screwdriver, air gun or hammer.

Foundation preparation

First you need to get rid of all the old foundations. Then take measurements and determine whether the floor needs to be leveled. If yes, then there are two options to prepare the surface for laying parquet boards:

• Use gypsum or cement-gypsum self-leveling self-leveling floors.
• Assemble a screed from plywood, chipboard or the like.

Having prepared the base for laying, check it for moisture using a hygrometer, and with a long rail (more than 2 m) - for evenness. Small imperfections can be filled with quick-drying mortars or cemented.

The next step is the primer:

• If laying the parquet board will be done with glue, use adhesive compounds.
• If you plan to use the floating method, you need strengthening mixtures.

Is the floor base wooden? Then you need to cut off all the bumps from it (you can use a parquet grinder). Fill the hollows with elastic putty. If the boards "walk", pull the subfloor to the base with self-tapping screws or nails. If there are many defects, it will be easier to make a new screed from chipboard or plywood with a thickness of more than 16 mm. Treat the surface with an antifungal primer.

Preparation for work

Surface prepared. The next stage of work will be laying waterproofing and substrate material on it. Spread the film overlapping, the overlap should be 15-25 cm. Glue the joints with adhesive tape. Attach a substrate (sheet or roll) on top. Lay it upside down. If you are planning to glue the parquet board, this step should be skipped.

After purchasing the material, give it time to "get used" to the microclimate of the room, this usually takes from 24 to 36 hours. If a “warm floor” is installed in the apartment, then it would be good to turn on the heating system for two weeks, and turn it off 3-4 hours before the start of work. With this maneuver, an ideal climate for laying parquet boards is created and at the same time thermal damage to the final finish is prevented.

One important point. If, when opening packages with a parquet board, you find that some products are slightly different in color and texture, that's okay. Wood is a natural product, and therefore this sometimes happens. Turn this to your advantage by making an interesting pattern out of the boards.

Before starting work, be sure to draw up a diagram of the future installation, preferably on a scale. The last row should be at least 5 cm wide.

Floor covering installation

When laying parquet flooring using the floating method, start work from the longest wall, clockwise. Leave space around the perimeter of the room for expansion wedges. According to experts, it is better to do this after laying the first three rows of parquet: move the boards with the help of a bracket and insert wedges into the resulting gaps.

Next, at the boards in the first row, cut off the spikes directed towards the wall. Install the first tile in the corner and proceed with the assembly along the ends. If the edge plate is larger than necessary, cut it off. Start laying the second row from the rest of the lamella of the first. If you plan to lay a parquet board with a classic Click-lock, then after joining the boards with the butt, fasten them along the length, while certainly knocking them through the bar with a mallet or hammer.

By the way, working with Lock and 5G lock systems is much more convenient. All thanks to the ability to join them both along and across.

There are volumetric locks for which you do not need to adjust the plastic insert. Just click on the plates and you're done.

With the last row of dies, you will have to tinker a little. It is unlikely that they will fit perfectly in size, and therefore they will need to be cut. After that, the tiles are fastened at the ends and join the last row. Be sure to press the laid parquet boards with a metal bracket or wringers.

It happens that a pipe or something else interferes with the smooth laying of a parquet board. In this case, mark the cutting line on the plate, saw off a piece along it and drill a hole with a margin of 1–1.6 cm. Put the plank in the right place, apply an adhesive composition to the cut and glue it.

After the laying is completed, pull out the wedges and turn on the "warm floor" system (the temperature must be increased gradually). Fix the skirting boards and mount the door sills. By the way, mandatory gaps in doorways are a requirement of manufacturers.

As a final touch, it would be nice to treat the floor with special flooring products. The wax contained in these mixtures clogs the joints between the boards well.

How to lay a parquet board on a warm floor

The parquet floor itself has excellent thermal insulation properties, plus, the underlayment does not let the cold through. But sometimes additional heating is still required. In such cases, the parquet board is laid directly on the "warm floor".

True, not every system is suitable here. If there are no problems with water heating, then the electric floor is incompatible with the parquet board. Such a “warm floor” heats up too quickly, a sharp temperature drop occurs, as a result of which the locks of the tiles begin to crack.

Laying parquet tiles on the "warm floor" should be carried out only after it has been turned off and cooled to room temperature. At the end of the work, the system can be turned on no earlier than a week later, and its temperature should be increased gradually, no more than 2-3 degrees per day. It is also very important that the floor is heated evenly, otherwise the parquet board may “lead”.

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One of the main advantages of a parquet board is that it does not need additional processing after laying. The material is polished, scraped, varnished and other operations are carried out at the factory, so all that remains for the consumer to do after purchase is to properly lay the boards on the subfloor. Thanks to a convenient locking system, the installation technology is noticeably simplified, but in order to create a high-quality and durable floor covering, you need to study all the subtleties of this process.

The parquet board differs from the usual wooden one in its three-layer structure:

• upper layer- wood of valuable species with a pronounced texture. The thickness varies between 1-6 mm, but most often it is 3.5-4 mm. To improve the decorative properties, the material undergoes heat treatment, bleaching and other procedures, and to protect against negative impacts, varnishing or impregnation with oil-wax compounds;
• intermediate layer- pine or spruce slats laid perpendicular to the front layer. At the ends of the rails, tongue or groove joints are cut, depending on the modification of the parquet board. The thickness of this layer is 8-9 mm;
• bottom layer- solid veneer of softwood, up to 2 mm thick. The direction of the fibers is perpendicular to the previous layer.

This arrangement of layers provides the material with high flexural and compressive strength, increases resistance to changes in humidity and temperature conditions. There are almost no chips on the parquet board, and the protective coating retains its attractive appearance for years. The standard board has the following options:

• width 120-200 mm;
• length 1100-2500 mm;
• thickness 10-22 mm.

There are several varieties of parquet boards, due to the number of dies in the top layer and the presence of chamfers on the sides.

Table. Types of parquet boards

Tarkett parquet board prices

Parquet board Tarkett

Pros and cons of the material

Despite the abundance of inexpensive and reliable floor coverings, the demand for parquet boards remains consistently high. Such popularity is due to the presence of significant advantages of the material:

• the coating is durable and has a long service life, is resistant to wear, can be restored;
• no need for varnishing, sanding or painting after installation is completed;
• thanks to the locking system, the coating, if necessary, can be dismantled and laid again, without deterioration in performance properties;
• installation does not require special equipment and does not take much time;
• parquet flooring looks spectacular and is suitable for different interior styles.

Such coverage also has disadvantages, although there are not many of them:

• the lack of the possibility of curly styling;
• relatively high price;
• the need for careful preparation of the rough foundation.

Ways of laying a parquet board

The laying of the coating can be carried out in three ways - adhesive, floating and with the help of fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws).

Adhesive way

Laying the coating on the adhesive requires a perfectly even and dry base. If recesses or tubercles remain on the subfloor, this will lead to uneven abrasion of the finish layer, cracks, and deformations. Restoring such a floor is also more difficult, since in the protruding areas during scraping more material is removed than necessary, in the recesses it is not removed at all. And the presence of moisture under the floor contributes to partial peeling of the coating, the appearance of fungus, swelling and swelling. To eliminate such risks, the parquet board is not glued to the screed itself, but to a plywood or chipboard substrate. There must be waterproofing under the substrate; in addition, soundproofing material can be laid - cork, polyethylene foam and others.

This method is used less and less, because it has more disadvantages than advantages. Firstly, costs increase: in addition to parquet boards and waterproofing, it is necessary to buy material for the substrate, fasteners and special parquet glue, the cost of which is quite high. Secondly, more time is required for laying, because you need to cut and fit plywood, fix it correctly, and apply glue. Do not walk on the floor until the glue is completely dry. In addition, it will be more difficult to replace accidentally damaged areas, and a dismantled floor is unsuitable for reuse.

floating way

The laying of the coating is carried out without fixing the parquet board to the rough base. Between themselves, the lamellae are fastened using a tongue-and-groove system or a special locking connection. A small gap must be left around the perimeter of the room to prevent deformation of the floor during thermal expansion. Between the coating and the base there is a layer of waterproofing, and noise-absorbing materials can also be laid.

This method is considered the most convenient and fastest, therefore it is used by most craftsmen, and is also ideal for those who do not yet have building experience. Subject to the laying technology, the coating perfectly tolerates changes in humidity and temperature conditions, which means that the risk of deformation is reduced to zero. If individual lamellas are damaged, it will not be difficult to replace them, the main thing is to choose the right boards according to tone and pattern. Complete dismantling of the coating also does not require much effort, in addition, the material can be reused.

Laying with fasteners

Fixing a parquet board with nails or self-tapping screws can be used when laying the coating on logs or a solid wooden base, and not on a screed. Lamellas with a thickness of at least 20 mm are suitable for this, since thin boards can be easily damaged. The logs are laid in increments of no more than 60 cm and strictly in the same plane, since even small differences in height cause creaks when walking. The space under the floor covering must be well ventilated to avoid the accumulation of condensation and moisture.

When laying the lamellas, they are positioned so that their ends are joined only on the logs. The nails are driven into the grooves at an angle, and the caps are deepened with a finisher so that the fasteners do not interfere with the tight fit of adjacent boards. Such fasteners give the necessary strength of the connection, but make it difficult to replace the elements during repairs. If it becomes necessary to completely dismantle, it will not be possible to reuse the coating due to damaged edges.

For fixing individual parquet planks, nails are used, the length of which is 40 mm, and the thickness is 1.6 - 1.8 mm

Adhesive floor technology

Preparatory stage

Start by assessing the condition of the subfloor. Its surface must be smooth, dry, without any defects. In order not to miss minor damage, the base must first be cleaned of debris and dust. Be sure to check the screed with a level and, if necessary, level the floor with a leveling mixture. If a new screed is poured, it is impossible to start laying until the base is completely dry.

During the installation process you will need:

• primer for concrete;
• moisture resistant plywood;
• parquet board;
• tape measure and pencil;
• circular saw or electric jigsaw;
• drill;
• dowel-nails;
• one-component parquet adhesive;
• notched trowel;
• a hammer.

Materials should be taken with a small margin, so calculate the right amount in advance by measuring the floor area. As a rule, trimming takes from 5 to 10% of the total amount of flooring, depending on the experience of the master and installation options.

Advice. The parquet board must be brought into the room where the installation will be carried out in advance, and left for at least a day. In this case, the temperature in the room should be within 18-25 degrees, and the humidity should not exceed 60%.

Coating laying

Step 1. The screed cleaned of dust is treated with a primer. If the composition is absorbed quickly, it is recommended to apply the primer in two layers, observing the time specified in the instructions for interlayer drying.

Step 2 The plywood is laid out on a dry floor and the cut points are marked. The substrate sheets should be staggered, while gaps of 3-5 mm wide should be left between them to compensate for thermal expansion. A gap of 10-15 mm wide is left around the perimeter of the room.

Step 3 Using a circular saw, cut plywood, clean the cuts from chips and dust. Dilute the glue and apply it to the concrete base, where the first sheet will be. The glue is quite thick, so it needs to be spread over the surface with a spatula. Plywood is laid, leveled, gently pressed with hands. All other sheets are glued in the same way.

Step 4 For more reliable fixation, plywood must be fastened to the base with dowel-nails. To do this, holes are drilled in each sheet at the corners and in the middle of the sides, stepping back from the edge of 30-40 mm. Dowels are inserted into the holes and fasteners are hammered.

Step 5 After fixing the substrate, the surface is cleaned of dust and the marking of the flooring is started. The first row is laid from the wall, fastening the boards without glue using locking joints. On the last lamella in the row, a cutting line is marked and the excess is cut off. Having completely laid the first row, mark its border on the substrate with a pencil and remove the boards.

Step 6 Take a new portion of glue and apply it with a spatula to the designated area. Distribute in an even layer over the entire surface, without going beyond the markings. The boards of the first row are laid, carefully fitting them from the ends and leaving a gap between the wall and the coating of at least 10 mm.

Step 7 The second row should be fastened with a displacement of the end seams by half the length of the lamella. Having properly cut the material, carefully cover the substrate with glue and proceed to laying. To do this, they take the board with both hands along the edges, put it at an angle to the board of the first row, inserting the comb into the groove along the entire length, then lower it down and lightly knock it down so that the lamella falls into place. All the rest are laid in the same way.

Step 8 When laying the coating near the threshold, around the ledges and in niches, cutouts of the appropriate shape are made in the boards, leaving a technological gap around the perimeter. In order for the gap to be the same along the entire length, it is recommended to insert wooden or plastic wedges 10 mm thick between the wall and the parquet board.

Advice. In the absence of experience in such work, it is necessary to control the time of fitting the boards so that the adhesive layer does not have time to dry. If the room is long, for the first time it is better to apply glue up to half the row.

Step 9 The last row often has to be cut to width. Here, in the same way, the board is applied to the surface, the cut line is marked with a pencil, and the excess is removed. After completing the work, leave the room for 8-10 hours, so that the glue hardens and securely fixes the floor covering.

After the specified time, the spacer wedges are removed and the gaps are closed with skirting boards. Caring for such a floor is easy, the main thing is to avoid excessive moisture. When wet cleaning, the rag must be wrung out well so that puddles do not collect on the floor. Accidentally spilled liquids should be wiped up immediately, preventing moisture from penetrating into the seams between the boards.

Floating technology

The floating floor also requires a quality base, so the screed is prepared in the manner described above. Next, prepare everything you need for work:

• parquet board;
• waterproofing film;
• scotch;
• underlayment for sound insulation;
• expansion wedges;
• tape measure and pencil;
• jigsaw;
• kleimers for skirting boards;
• drill and dowels with self-tapping screws.

Step 1. The prepared base is lined with a film for waterproofing, capturing the walls to a height of 10 cm. The strips of the film are overlapped to a width of 30 cm and the edge is glued with adhesive tape.

Step 2 The next layer is a heat-insulating substrate made of pressed cork or polyethylene foam. The substrate is laid close to the walls, adjacent strips - end-to-end.

Step 3 Start installing the cover. The first board is laid in the corner along the wall, with an indent of 10-15 mm from the side and from the end. For convenience, wedges of appropriate thickness are inserted between the board and the walls.

Advice. The boards of the first row must be laid with a ridge against the wall, but since in this case the technological gap will be wider than required, the ridges are pre-cut.

Step 4 The second board is placed side by side, leveled, its end is brought into the lock of the first and tightly adjusted. The last lamella in the row is first tried on, marked with a pencil to the desired length and cut off the excess with a saw, after which it is fixed like everyone else.

Step 5 In the second row, the boards are shifted by at least a third of the length. Laying is done in the same way, only now each board needs to be joined both in length and from the end.

Step 6 Having reached the opening, mark the thickness of the coating on the door frame and carefully cut a groove under the parquet board with a hacksaw. The vacuum cleaner removes the formed dust and shavings.

Step 7 Install the threshold. An aluminum rail is applied to the floor, fixing points are marked through the mounting holes. Having drilled holes, clean them of dust, insert dowels and fasten the rail with self-tapping screws.

Step 8 When laying the board extreme from the threshold, the connection is additionally strengthened with glue. To do this, carefully remove the top layer of wood along the crest with a sharp knife, remove the chips and apply glue with a thin continuous strip. The board is pushed under the door frame, leveled from the end and along the side line, the locks are snapped into place. For a tighter fit, they hammer on the other side of the lamella with a hammer.

Step 9 The coating is cut and laid opposite the threshold, after which the upper bar of the metal nut is screwed. The plank should tightly close the ends of the boards and lie strictly horizontally.

Step 10 From the threshold, the rows are laid in the manner described above, with a mandatory gap around the perimeter of the room. If the last row does not fit in width, the boards are cut with a saw from the side of the groove.

Step 11 After laying the coating, on the walls, on top of the film, they mark the attachment points for the baseboard clamps in increments of 40-50 cm. The indents from the corners should not be more than 20 cm. Drill holes in the wall through the film, insert the dowels and screw the clamps with self-tapping screws.

Step 12 The baseboards are installed, then take a sharp mounting knife and very carefully cut off the protruding edge of the film so as not to leave scratches on the baseboard and on the wall.

Subject to the technology, the coating is strong and durable, does not swell, does not creak underfoot. If you need to replace individual fragments, it will be enough to pry them up and lift them up to separate the lock.

Video - Errors when laying parquet boards

The parquet board does not require varnishing. Once the installation work is completed, the floor is immediately ready for use.

Can parquet board be used on the terrace?

The parquet board is not intended for laying in areas with high humidity, such as saunas or bathrooms. And also it is not intended for outdoor use, that is, it cannot be used on the terrace.

What care is required for parquet boards?

Caring for parquet boards is quite simple. The floor must be cleaned regularly. This is best done with a vacuum cleaner or a slightly damp cloth. Do not use abrasive detergents when cleaning, and do not overmoisten the parquet board.

Can parquet boards be installed on underfloor heating?

The parquet board can be laid on a “warm floor”, provided that the surface does not heat up to more than 26 degrees Celsius. Therefore, before laying the parquet board, it is advisable to get advice from the manufacturer of this particular model of "warm floor".

What glue is best to use when installing parquet boards?

When installing a parquet board, it is necessary to use frost- and moisture-resistant glue. Water-based glue cannot be used.

Is it possible to scrape the parquet board?

It depends on how exactly the parquet board was laid. If the parquet board is laid in a floating way, then it is impossible to scrape it off, but if it is glued to the base, then it is possible.

How can I check the moisture content of the substrate before laying the parquet board?

To check the moisture level of the base, you can stick a piece of plastic film on it with adhesive tape. If the moisture level of the base is increased, perspiration will appear on the film the next day.

How to prepare the base for laying parquet boards?

First of all, it is necessary to prevent the penetration of moisture through the base of the floor. For this purpose, an insulating layer is laid, for example, from a polyethylene film two tenths of a millimeter thick. The substrate is laid on the insulating layer. It can be porous polyethylene. The thickness of the substrate should not exceed three millimeters. After that, the installation of the parquet board on the substrate is carried out.

Can an old parquet floor be used as a base for laying parquet boards?

It all depends on how reliable the base can be the old floor, that is, how strong it is, even and what degree of humidity it has. If it meets all the necessary criteria, then before laying, the old floor will need to be cleaned of the varnish layer, as well as polished.

Can parquet boards be partially restored?

Yes, there are special repair kits for restoration. But not all companies producing parquet boards produce them. Therefore, the restored area may have visual differences from the main floor.

It is natural to expect durability from an expensive parquet flooring. This is possible with proper care. It is quite specific, since natural wood is capricious, and it is impossible to subject it to standard cleaning. How to care for a parquet board is correctly described here.

It is natural to expect durability from an expensive parquet flooring. This is possible with proper care. It is quite specific, since natural wood is capricious, and it is impossible to subject it to standard cleaning. Below is a description of how to properly care for a parquet board.

Types of coatings

The parquet area is characterized by the peculiarities of laying boards (article "Methods of laying parquet"). Parquet care will depend on the initial coating and installation of the boards. The floor is "floating" - that is, the lamellas are fastened together with locks. And mounted with glue - such a coating cannot be dismantled or replaced by individual units, since the composition layer firmly holds it on the base. From this follows the following:

• For the installation of floating parquet, boards are purchased either with a varnish coating applied at the factory, or “clean”. In the future, varnishing is prohibited, as the composition will clog the joints between the lamellas. To protect the boards from moisture, this is good, but with minimal pressure, the varnish coating at the joints will begin to crack. It is recommended to apply oil or wax to clean floating parquet floors.
• The parquet floor, arranged "tightly" (fasteners, glue) accepts any coating - varnish is a priority. However, you should be aware that clean parquet boards after the first oil treatment hardly accept varnish - only after thorough cleaning and polishing.

Useful information Rule number 1 - before you start caring for a parquet floor, it is important to find out the nature of the coating and the way the parquet is laid.

Organization of preservation of parquet in its original form

Caring for parquet at home begins from the moment it is laid. It is important to know the factors that affect the condition of the flooring, the permitted and prohibited actions and cleaning methods:

Allowed

• Use a vacuum cleaner with soft nozzles for daily cleaning, as in the photo:

• Use a damp cloth for cleaning without detergents.
• Clean heavy dirt with special means.
• Treat scratches, abrasions and minor damage with polish (for lacquered parquet).

Forbidden to use

• Use a washing vacuum cleaner. It has too much moisture.
• Use universal cleaning agents if the parquet is not indicated in the annotation.
• Walk in street shoes. In the hallway, there must be a rug to hold small pebbles and sand.
• Move oversized furniture without felt nozzles on the legs (glued to the sole, they are invisible).
• Provide drafts or ventilation. It is better to install climate control, which will automatically select the optimal humidity.

Useful information Rule number 2 - parquet board care is carried out from the first days.

Parquet and steam mop

Basins and hand washing are a thing of the past. They were replaced by convenient gadgets - all kinds of mops. Steam is especially popular - in addition to most of the pollution, it disinfects the floor surface. This is important when there are small children in the house. But can you clean parquet with a steam mop?

Unfortunately, she is the enemy for most parquet boards. The reasons are as follows:

• Oil and varnish coatings are afraid of high temperatures. After cleaning, milk stains remain on the surface, then the varnish gradually peels off. The oil is washed out, exposing the wood pores, where moisture is allowed to enter.
• Lots of moisture. The boards will begin to swell. At higher temperatures, absorption will be faster. When the thermal action is over, the tree will begin to deform from the temperature difference. The result is cracks.
• Steam action is critical for light parquet. Bevel and edges darken. If a certain pattern is conceived, then the boundaries will lose their clarity.

Useful information Rule number 3 - never use a steam mop to clean hardwood floors.

Types of pollution

To assess pollution will help their classification:

• Surface. These include stains from products - juice, coffee, fruits. Chemical components of inks, cosmetics, pencils - you can often hear a question from mothers - what should I do if my child stained the parquet with drawings?
• Deep. Those that eat into the wood structure. These are oil products - shoe polish, traces of it, tar, paints. Difficult stains include pet urine.

Useful information Rule number 4 - most stains are removed from the parquet if you do not delay cleaning and choose the right products.

Cleaning the parquet board

Can parquet be washed? In the broadest sense of the word, no. Too much water is prohibited. However, cleaning is required.

Individual approach to cleaning depends on the type of coverage:

With varnish

Lacquered parquet boards are easy to maintain with daily vacuuming and weekly wet cleaning.

It is important to strive to only lightly process the boards, without pressure and friction. Before the "battle" with spots, the surface of the site is freed from fine litter and sand.

• Easily removed stains are treated with a special spray, applying the product not directly to the parquet, but to the rags that are being cleaned.
• Hard-to-remove stains from liquids are first moistened with a product, kept and rubbed off.
• Tar, chewing gum, first frozen. To do this, ice is placed in a plastic bag and applied to the floor. Then carefully remove the substance with a spatula. Scratching and scraping with knives is not allowed.

Useful information Rule number 5 - lacquer needs gentle care without abrasives.

With butter

Maintenance of oiled parquet is more labor intensive. The composition creates a moisture-repellent film on the surface, but not polymerized - that is, not solid.

All possible scuffs and roughness are present - dirt lingers in them for a long time, cleaning is problematic, but possible:

• Weak dirt is washed off with water with a special cleaner added to it - a means for caring for parquet.
• To remove traces of rubber or rubber from shoes, a foam aerosol is used - it will let the stains “shrink” and then they are removed.
• Particularly resistant stains are wiped with white spirit.

Useful information Rule number 6 - after cleaning oiled parquet, re-oiling is required, as the compounds will remove the film.

With wax

How to wash a parquet board treated with wax? There is only one answer - no way. Such parquet cannot be washed in the literal sense of the word.

There are other ways for it:

• Dry cleaning with a soft vacuum cleaner.
• Spray and foam treatment.
• Regular waxing of parquet after cleaning.

Useful information Rule number 7 - care for oiled and waxed parquet is carried out weekly.

Conclusion

The question - how to care for a parquet floor - seems complicated, only at first glance. The last rule will be regular prevention of the appearance of the flooring. Timely action is the key to longevity of the board. It is possible to order the parquet cleaning service from specialists if there is no time for thorough cleaning and restoration.

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