Work in the garden in April in the suburbs. April gardening calendar Planting in the country in April

Work in the garden and in the garden in April.

April is a month when there is an immense amount of work in the garden and in the garden. In April, the planting of many garden crops begins, because the seeds of most vegetables begin to germinate already at a soil temperature of 1-4 degrees Celsius. Correctly in the old days they said "As you stomp, so you will burst."

• Make sure that on the site there was no stagnation of melt water, divert water in the desired direction by digging grooves. Stagnant water is especially dangerous for raspberries, strawberries and clematis.
• Those beds that were covered for the winter with spruce branches, needs to be released from hiding so that the plantings (garlic, roses, lilies, clematis, etc.) do not get wet or start growing prematurely under a warm shelter, they need fresh air and sunlight. However, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions of a particular area, since removing the shelter too early can harm the plants.
• April starts sowing seeds of cold-resistant crops into the soil. In early April, it is necessary to start sowing peas, radishes, seedless cabbage, dill, parsley, fennel, lettuce, rhubarb, leaf celery, parsnips. Before you start sowing, do not forget about crop rotation (i.e. take into account predecessors) and the compatibility of the neighborhood of different crops.
• Sow early greens(watercress, indau (arugula), cilantro, mustard, parsley, lettuce, spinach, dill) and early carrots, as well as radishes. If there are unheated greenhouses, the harvest of early greens and radishes can be obtained before planting the main crops in the greenhouse or by placing them between seedlings. You can also grow this early greens and radishes on compost beds spilled with boiling water and covered with a film. First of all, sow radishes, as with lengthening daylight hours, this vegetable will go into the arrow.
• Begin mid-April sow beets and chard. Chard greens can be used in salads, soups, and for making cabbage rolls.
• The garlic left over from the winter, having previously prepared it, can be planted in the beds in mid-April. With you will get a harvest a little later than garlic planted in the fall, but eventually the heads will turn out to be standard sizes.
• After the snow melted apply fertilizer(per 1 m 2): organic - 2-3 kg, bird droppings in liquid form 200 gr., Urea, ammonium nitrate - 35 gr., phosphate fertilizers - 50 gr., potash - 20 gr., wood ash - 1 cup , lime - 2 cups. For each crop, those fertilizers are added that they need the most.
• Before sowing the main crops on the beds, loosen the soil rake or Fokine flat cutter. Repeat this operation several times to destroy all weeds that are in the top layer of the soil. The main thing - do not dig the soil, but only loosen. Sowing will begin in late April or early May, it depends on weather conditions, there are no exact dates, planting time can be suggested.
• brush beds of strawberries and strawberries from old leaves and feed all plantings.
• In April the most time to get vaccinated. Cuttings for grafting are cut in early April, dropped into the snow on the north side of the house, wrapped in cloth or newspaper and put in a plastic bag. And at the end of the month, these cuttings are used for grafting.
• Do not forget take care of seedlings peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, leeks, celery, etc. Water moderately and spend.
• In mid-April, you can begin to harden seedlings of early cabbage, celery, black onions and leeks, and at the end of the month we begin to harden seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants.
• seed potatoes must be taken out of storage or purchased new and carried out (vernalization) (if you did not do this in March).
• Check all the bushes and trees in the garden if you don't made a pruning in previous months, then hurry up to do it in early April. Rejuvenate bushes blackcurrant, raspberry, gooseberry and honeysuckle, cutting out old branches and removing excess poorly developed young, broken or thickened. Pruning cherries, plums, apple trees and pears is best postponed until the end of summer or autumn. Heal your wounds on trees after cleaning with garden pitch.
• Remove and destroy the dried fruits of apples, pears, cherries and plums - the source of many fungal and bacterial diseases. On blackcurrant and gooseberry bushes, cut and burn the twisted tops of the branches - the result of last year's powdery mildew damage to the plant.
• At the beginning of April, while the kidneys have not yet awakened, carry out spraying iron vitriol (1 teaspoon per 100 grams of water) to kill lichens on tree trunks, and against wintering pests with a solution of urea (700 grams per 10 liters of water). It is necessary to spray trees and shrubs from pests at the beginning of bud break. Trees and shrubs can be treated with a Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate and 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water) against powdery mildew, rust, and necrosis. Against powdery mildew, mullein infusion is used (1/3 of the container is filled with mullein, poured with water, insisted for 3 days, filtered, diluted 3 times with water, sprayed). Against the spider mite, karbofos is used (30 g per 10 liters of water).
• In April harvesting birch buds, chaga, immortelle and chamomile flowers, lingonberry leaves, viburnum and buckthorn bark, viburnum fruits and dandelion roots.
• In mid-April you can sow black onion. Shoots after 3-4 weeks can be thinned out, tender greens can be used in salads, and the plants left by the end of summer will give a good harvest of bulbs. .
• Spend planting carrots. Exist . Choose the most suitable method for you.
• Reopen the reservoir, and if he wintered arbitrarily, then clean its surface from last year's floating leaves.
• Pass the lawn with a heavy special rake with hollow teeth, which will allow you to clean it of dry grass and loosen the topsoil for fresh air. Feed your lawn with nitrogen fertilizer.
• In April time to plant trees and shrubs with an open root system. Loosen trunk circles near trees and shrubs. In the second half of April plant conifers, while watering abundantly and shade them.

Calendar of work in the garden and in the garden in April. Work in the country in April. What needs to be done in the garden and in the garden in April. Everything you need to do in the country in April. The list of works in the garden and in the garden for April.

Good luck to you!

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Spring is coming with increasing speed, in April, gardeners and gardeners will have a lot of work. To help novice gardeners plan these works correctly, this article was written. We hope that it will be of interest to both gardeners, gardeners, and amateur flower growers. Work in the garden in April. Work in the garden in April. April worries of flower growers.

Your garden: work of the month April work in the country, start with deep loosening of the soil. At the same time, apply fertilizers for fruit and berry crops: nitrogen, phosphorus-potassium and organic. Strongly compacted clay areas will have to be dug to a depth of 10-15 cm. If the melt water lingers in the garden and the soil is too wet, dig shallow grooves to drain the water.

Release the boles from the winter strapping, unwind the young trees. Clean trunks and skeletal branches of dead bark. Finish pruning the crowns of fruit trees. Cut out the growth. Cover wounds and large cuts with garden pitch.

Pay attention to berry bushes

Spend in April the final pruning of berry bushes. Pluck out enlarged currant buds inhabited by mites. In mid-April, blackcurrants are propagated with lignified annual cuttings. A cutting 16-18 cm long is cut at the bottom under the kidney itself, at the top - 1-1.5 cm above the kidney. The cuttings are planted in loose, well-prepared soil, obliquely, leaving 1 bud above the ground. Watering, mulching. In autumn, young cuttings are cut to a height of 10-15 cm, and in the fall of the following year they are planted in a permanent place.

Cuttings of red and white currants are cut and planted in early September. Gooseberries are easier to propagate by layering. Start caring for strawberries by cleaning the plantation from covering materials, last year's leaves, and extra whiskers. Try to loosen the aisles early to a depth of 4-5 cm, correct the bushes. Strawberries are very responsive to early loosening. Feed strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers.

Spray abiga-peak fungicide (50 g) with the addition of Novosil (2 ml) per 10 liters of water. Cut raspberries into well-developed buds. Loosen the soil and fertilize with organic matter mixed with complex mineral fertilizers. Mulch the aisles with compost, humus with a layer of 4-5 cm. Planting seedlings in April In April, plant fruit trees if you did not do it in the fall. Choose 1-2-year-old seedlings, with a good root system, the buds should not yet bloom. Before planting, soak the seedlings to restore the turgor of the root system, make a clay mash. Water abundantly after planting, mulch the hole with organic matter.

Make a crown pruning of the seedling to restore the connection between the roots and the future crown. If there are lateral branches, cut off one-third of the entire aerial part to the outer kidney. Shorten the central conductor 20-30 cm above the level of skeletal branches. On a trunk (40-50 cm), blind all the kidneys.

Be sure to treat the garden from diseases and pests in April. Early spring is an important period for protecting the garden from pests and diseases. The apple flower beetle wakes up first - already during the swelling of the kidneys. He is still a little active, cannot fly and climbs into the crown along the stem. To delay him, put trapping belts on the stems, best of all glue.

Clean the area of ​​​​the trunk on which the belt is applied from dead bark so that there are no passages for insects under the belt. Make a belt from thick paper or soft cardboard, burlap and spread it with caterpillar glue. You can make a belt from old cotton wool, loosening it a little: insects get stuck in it. To protect from rain, cover the belt with a polyethylene visor. If there is no caterpillar glue, you can treat the belt with a chemical preparation.

Late with the belt - shake off the pests! When the buds begin to bloom, it will be too late to impose belts. All wintered beetles will already have time to climb into the crown. It remains only to shake them off on a litter early in the morning, when the air temperature is not higher than 10 degrees. Before pushing the buds, spend 3-4 shaking. But this is only possible for those gardeners who come to the dacha not only on weekends. The rest will have to use chemical means of protection. At the beginning of bud break (the “green cone” phase), larvae of aphids, suckers, caterpillars of leafworms, winter moths, cherry moths, weevils, pipeworms and other pests gather on the buds. Chemical means of pest and disease control.

In April, trees and berry bushes can be sprayed with fufanon or a spark, or kemifos (10 ml per 10 liters of water), or alatar (5 ml). Treat currants against red gall aphids and diseases with kinmix (2.5 ml) + topaz (2 ml). If the trees in your garden were affected by scab, moniliosis, cluster sporiosis (cherries, plums, apricots), spray very effective at this time with a 3% Bordeaux mixture (300 g of copper sulphate + 400 g of lime per 10 liters of water).

On open leaves, use only 1% Bordeaux mixture. Instead, other fungicides can be used on the leaves - chorus, scoring, gamair, raek. In the third decade of April, spray raspberries against aphids, moths and other pests with Fufanon (10 ml) with the addition of estrasol (10 ml) or Novosil (3 ml). In the second decade of April, spray peaches against moniliosis and leaf curl over the “green cone” with abiga-peak (40 g per 10 l of water). At the end of the month, before flowering, spray pome crops with a biostimulant (Novosil or extrasol) to increase resistance to adverse conditions (frosts, etc.). To improve the keeping quality of fruits and their resistance to rot, carry out foliar top dressing with a solution of calcium nitrate (50 g) with the addition of extrasol

What work awaits gardeners in April Garden: work of the month

The sooner you start the gardening season, the more you will do in the spring, the richer the harvest you will get. Many summer residents after winter come to the site for the first time in April. Naturally, the first thing we do is inspect the beds: like garlic, onion sets planted in late autumn overwintered. If for the winter we threw beds with these crops with leaves, grass, we remove everything so that the soil warms up faster, we loosen it, we apply nitrogen fertilizers (a tablespoon of urea per sq. M). If there are heads of garlic left at home after the winter, we plant them as early as possible. It does not make sense to store further, and in the ground the teeth will form large single-toothed bulbs, which will fit both in the kitchen and for winter planting. We plant in April and onion sets. We clean the areas where perennials grow from plant debris (batun onion, chives, asparagus, rhubarb), loosen the soil.

If at the beginning of April it is not warm enough, you can cover the beds with a film or non-woven material on arcs - we will get the first greenery faster. It is better to use a new film: through it the sun will warm the soil faster. But if the old film is still strong, we wash it properly. In warm weather, we remove the shelter. In April, it is necessary to unwind rhubarb in the garden, we feed it with complex mineral fertilizer for spring application. If there is a desire to plant a bush, we take divisions from the periphery of the bush. There, the buds are stronger and, therefore, will give life to more productive plants. Yes, and they shoot later. In the same way, you can do with an overgrown lovage bush. Sorrel can be fed with a weak solution of nitrogen fertilizers (0.5 teaspoon of urea or ammonium nitrate per sq. M). If the sorrel grows well, then we do not feed it in order to protect ourselves from nitrates. Leaves that have grown to 10 cm can already be cut or plucked. If the sorrel bed is more than one year old, in April it's time to sow it in another place - for a replacement. At the beginning of summer, we will harvest leaves from young plants, and dig up the old bed.

In April, cold-resistant plants should be sown. We do not postpone the sowing of other cold-resistant crops for May: lettuce spinach dill parsley carrots parsnips chard arugula Japanese cabbage radish. Polka dots. Don't forget to sow brain peas in April. It’s hard to find a better treat at the beginning of summer than sweet peas for kids. Peas sown in May sprout worse, and finish blooming and fruiting faster. With sowing seeds for seedlings in beds covered with foil, it is better not to rush. Let the weed seeds germinate first. On beds covered with foil, weeds begin to sprout after 2-3 days. By loosening the soil, we will greatly facilitate the life of garden plants, which we will sow for seedlings, for an early harvest.

Cabbage. In mid-April (weather permitting), we plant seedlings of all kinds of cabbage in the beds - white cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi, Beijing, Brussels sprouts. Lettuce seedlings will not be afraid of temporary cold snaps. In case of a sharp cold snap, these beds can always be found with something to cover. Asparagus. We plant a bed with asparagus high (by 20-25 cm) with earth or a mixture of earth and compost, humus to get bleached shoots. You can just add humus, compost, sawdust. We level the surface of the embankment, lightly tamp it down in order to notice the shoots breaking through the soil layer in time. Already in April, you can cook asparagus salad, scrambled eggs or cook soup. Children enjoy eating fresh asparagus shoots, comparing their taste with green peas.

We plant potatoes. We do not postpone the planting of potato tubers. If the weather is warm, you should not wait until the tubers laid out for germination give sprouts and roots at home: it is better to identify them in a permanent place - in the garden.

Small areas of potato can be covered with foil or non-woven material: the potatoes will rise faster. The 1-2 weeks "saved" in the spring will have a positive effect not only on the timing, but also on the quality and quantity of the crop. Before planting, we discard tubers with rot spots, filamentous sprouts. We do not plant potatoes in the areas that he occupied in previous years, and next to the beds allocated for planting tomatoes.

Sow herbs. At the end of the month, spicy herbs can be sown on the beds: basil lemon balm thyme snakehead marjoram hyssop. They will take up little space, but they will bring enormous benefits: both to the plants on the site, protecting from pests, and to us, giving a unique taste and aroma to drinks, meat and fish dishes, marinades and pickles. After sowing, it is advisable to cover the beds with non-woven material, paper, in order to retain moisture in the soil until germination. We use the film for these purposes only if we visit the country house every day and have the opportunity to remove it in case of a sharp warming. Our spring is unpredictable, and heat can happen in April: under the film, tender shoots will burn out in a matter of minutes. We can't even find traces of them.

Let's not forget about pests. In April, it is already necessary to take measures to protect garden plants. Radish, cabbage, watercress, mustard can be harmed by cruciferous flea. We dust the crops with sifted wood ash, install glue traps. Loosening the soil and the same wood ash will help against the cruciferous fly. Some summer residents, in order to protect cabbage, radish from pests, grow them under a thin non-woven material on arcs, pressing it tightly to the soil.

We take care of the soil. In an effort to sow and plant faster, let's not forget to walk with a rake through the beds dug up since autumn. If this is not done while the soil is wet, then you will have to expend several times more effort to level the beds, and the beneficial spring moisture will be irretrievably lost. The soil ready for cultivation does not stick to the rake, but crumbles without forming large lumps. In low, shaded places, we cultivate the soil last, let it dry so as not to compact. We remove all plant debris from the site left after the last season, and lay it in layers in a compost heap, pouring each layer with soil or humus, compost. If we regularly moisten the pile, the compost will ripen by autumn. In early April, it is still possible to sow fast-growing green manure (mustard, phacelia) beds set aside for planting seedlings of nightshade crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants). Fight weeds. When preparing the beds for planting, we carefully select the rhizomes of wheatgrass, thistle, field bindweed and other perennial weeds from the soil. In a week we will return to these beds to pull out the weeds that have appeared from the ground. Couch grass is persistent in its desire to develop all the new beds of the garden, but we will be more persistent than him, and we will wipe out couch grass, thistle without the help of herbicides.

What work should be done in April in greenhouses. In early April, the greenhouse should be ready for planting seedlings of tomatoes or cucumbers. If the greenhouse is film, it is better to cover it with a new film, if it is glass, wash the glass thoroughly. We fertilize the soil with organic matter (up to a bucket of compost or humus) or complex fertilizers for spring application (up to two tablespoons per sq. M).

What to plant in a greenhouse

Radish. As an intermediate crop, early varieties of radish can be sown. Although it is cold-resistant, it will quickly form root crops under the film. We immediately try to sow the seeds at the right distance from each other in order to provide the plants with sufficient illumination and feeding area even without thinning. After 10-15 cm from each other, we make sowing grooves, spill them with hot water and lay out the seeds after 3-4 cm from each other. If we doubt the quality of the seeds (old, feeble in appearance), we sow more often - after 1-2 cm. If the radish sprouts densely, we will have to thin out, otherwise we will not harvest, but admire the flowering of the radish. We do not open the greenhouse until the shoots appear: the warmer, the faster the radish will sprout. But after germination, the temperature in the greenhouse will have to be controlled by constant ventilation: otherwise, the radish will develop powerful tops, but frail root crops.

Dill, garlic, onion. You can sparsely scatter dill seeds in the greenhouse, plant chives and onions in the aisles of future beds. We will not completely remove these crops from the greenhouse even after cucumbers or tomatoes grow. They will help maintain a healthy microclimate in the greenhouse. Spinach. Spinach is considered a good neighbor and predecessor of most vegetable crops. It can also be sown as an intermediate crop, not only in open beds, but also in a greenhouse. And the sooner the better. April, with its still not very long daylight hours, is a great time to get vitamin leaves. To determine the timing of sowing various crops, use the "blooming tips": The first crocuses (yellow) have bloomed - you can sow chives, leeks, and after a few days, other cold-resistant crops. The birch has turned green in the sun - it's time to plant potato tubers for summer consumption, onion sets. The flowering of early daffodils will tell you that you can already sow lettuce, plant cabbage seedlings in the beds, sow beets. The lilac blossomed violently - you can sow early cucumbers. Buds on peonies formed and became clearly visible, viburnum blossomed - the soil warmed up enough for sowing late cucumbers, corn, melons.

April work of flower growers

April opens the flower season. We did not really hope for March, but from April we are expecting warmth from the first days. I would like to quickly make sure that our beloved perennials have safely wintered, despite the winter cold and the March cold wind. Our hands are longing for work on the ground, our eyes are tired of the gray despondency around ...

In April, the first flowers greet us at the dacha: crocuses, marigolds, blueberries that have broken through last year's foliage that has packed over the winter. Before our eyes, the leaves of tulips rise higher and higher, between which sharp spouts of buds can be seen. In order for the tulips to have tall flower stalks and large glasses, we feed the bulbous nitrogen fertilizers, loosen the soil and, when necessary, water it.

Let's remove the foliage that covered our perennials: let the sun wake them up faster. When the soil warms up, it can be covered again so that it does not dry out and does not overheat. Forecasters threaten that there will be no spring: we will immediately move from winter to summer.

Help the roses. Having freed roses from winter shelter, we will throw non-woven material on them: the sun can destroy shoots that have become unaccustomed to light and wind during the winter. Let the soil around the bushes warm up, the roots begin to work, and then the light-protective "umbrella" can be removed from the roses. We cut the shoots of hybrid tea, polyanthus and floribunda roses to well-wintered wood. In park roses, we cut off only the frozen tips.

Take care of other colors too. We will not leave filamentous yucca, holly magonia, and other plants that hibernate with green leaves freed from the winter “captivity” without protection from the sun. Spruce, arborvitae, junipers should be protected from burning needles. When perennials begin to grow, we look at which of them need to be immediately divided, transplanted. This does not apply to plants that bloom in spring, early summer. We will work on their transplantation and division in the fall. But it is advisable to deal with perennial asters, stonecrops, chrysanthemums in April.

We will divide and replant Korean chrysanthemum bushes, even if they are only two years old. If this is not done, the bushes will “give” a lot of thin shoots and “fall apart” from the first strong wind even before flowering begins. Divide the dug bush into parts with one or two young shoots. Delenki will grow quickly and will be very decorative this season. In adult delphinium bushes, we cut out weak shoots. It's a pity, but it is necessary to do this in order to get spectacular inflorescences - tall, with large flowers. In each plant, we leave 2-3 of the strongest shoots, and the rest, while they are only 5-8 cm high, we cut off at the very root collar, treat it with a growth stimulator and plant it in a cutting plant for rooting. Top the cuttings with a 5-centimeter layer of clean sand. Plant new plants in April As soon as possible, we will try to plant roses and ornamental shrubs. And again, forgetting about the word “sorry”, we cut the planted bushes so that the aerial part draws less juice from the roots damaged during digging in the nursery. If you regret and do not shorten the shoots, the plant will “come to its senses” for a very long time, it may die. Short-cut plants both take root and grow faster than uncircumcised ones.

In April, we already sow annuals in the garden: heat-loving (tagetes, zinnias, petunias, arctotis, amaranth, celosia, balsam, sowing dahlia, etc.) are sown under a film on arcs.

We do not add humus to the soil of nurseries - to prevent the disease of seedlings with a black leg. On warm days, the crops must be ventilated. Scabiosa, iberis, escholcia, cornflower, annual chrysanthemum, nigella and other cold-resistant annuals are already sown in April in a permanent place. Covering an area of ​​cold hardy annuals after sowing is only possible to keep the soil moist until germination.

Many of us love Chinese aster (one-year-old), and seedlings are already growing on our windowsills. But anyway, we will sow it in April (as soon as the soil allows) also in the ground, picking up disease-resistant varieties.

Seedless asters will bloom a little later than seedlings, but they will decorate the garden longer in the fall. Yes, and they resist diseases better, and form more lush bushes.

Don't forget the seedlings in the room. Needs our care and seedlings in the room. Once again we feed the flowers of the February sowing: 2-3 g of complex fertilizer per liter of water. Water with fertilizer solutions carefully, trying not to wet the stems, leaves. We combine fertilizing with watering. We dive seedlings of March sowing into separate cups, cassettes or into seedling boxes (small ones - after 2.5-3, large ones - after 4-5 cm from each other). Two weeks before planting seedlings in open ground, we begin to harden it. This is necessary so as not to ruin the plants grown with such difficulty. We take out the seedlings to the loggia, balcony, veranda, shading it from the direct sun for the first days, protecting it from the wind. In April, you can plant seedlings of Shabo cloves, levkoy, sweet peas in open ground: they can withstand temperatures down to minus 5 degrees.

In early April, we lay out dahlia tuber roots for germination. Rinse the tuber root nests before sprouting, cut out the damaged areas, soak for 10-15 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, treat with a growth stimulator and lay tightly to each other on a layer of wet peat or pre-scalded sawdust. On top of the nest of tuber roots, we cover it with a substrate, leaving the root collar open. We find a bright place for dahlias. After the growth points of the stems are outlined, we divide the nests with a sharp knife so that each tuber root has 1-2 seedlings and part of the old stem. Delenki can be planted in the ground at the end of the month, providing shelter in case of return frosts.

Germinated canna rhizomes will also bloom earlier. In April, we plant gladiolus corms in the ground, finding a place for them where they have not been grown for several years. We clean the corms before planting, treat them against thrips in an insecticide solution. Sick and old (flat-bottomed) corms are discarded.

Take care of landscaping balconies and loggias. In April, you can do the gardening of the balcony. Plant, for example, pansies, daisies. If we do not have our own seedlings, we will buy several flowering bushes in the market or in the store. How much joy will bring "big-eyed" flowers in the spring. Of course, these lovers of cool weather will not stand the summer heat on the balcony. Having carefully dug the flowers out of the box, in June we will take them to the dacha, and to replace them we will plant resistant pelargoniums and petunias in balcony containers.

By the way, when planting Korean chrysanthemums in the garden, we will single out one or two bushes of low varieties for landscaping the balcony. In the summer we will dig the containers in the garden, and in the fall, when the chrysanthemums bloom in them, we will bring them home and decorate the balcony. Here, chrysanthemums will bloom longer than in the garden: frosts always come to the city later than to our summer cottages. April work with indoor flowers In April, we finish transplanting, transshipment of indoor plants that need it (the roots have appeared from the drainage holes and on the surface of the soil; the soil is covered with a whitish coating of salts, quickly dries up). Plants transplanted at a later date will be more painful. There is no way to transplant, at least we will replace it with fresh topsoil in pots. Transplanted plants can be watered with a solution of zircon or treated along the crown with a solution of epina-extra. We continue to feed indoor plants. After transplanting top dressing, we start three weeks later, when the plants resume growth.

In April, in the middle lane in the second half of the month, sap flow and swelling of buds in fruit trees begin. It's time for urgent spring work.

As soon as all the snow melts and the top layer of the earth dries up, put the area in order: rake last year's leaves, branches, tops and put them in a compost heap.

If weather permits, start tilling the soil. It is recommended to dig the earth only when it is completely dry.

Remove the binding from the boles of the trees and repeat the whitewashing of the trunks with lime mortar. You can whitewash boles and branches with freshly slaked lime (2-3 kg per 10 liters of water) with the addition of 0.5 kg of copper sulfate. Instead of lime, you can use ground chalk, adding wood glue (50-100 g per 10 liters of water) to the solution for better adhesion. Whitewashing tree strols protects plants not only from frostbite, sunburn, but also destroys pests in the wintering stage, pathogenic fungi, clears mosses and lichens.

It is worth spraying against wintering pests while the buds are not yet swollen. Fruit trees, blackcurrant bushes, gooseberries and raspberries can be treated with a solution of nitrafen (300 g per 10 liters of water) against aphids, pathogenic fungi. At the same time, the soil under trees and bushes is also sprayed with nitrafen.

Later, at the end of the month, when the buds begin to bloom (along the “green cone”), to combat scab, fruit rot and other fungal diseases in the gardens, the so-called blue spraying is carried out, that is, the treatment of pear and apple trees with Bordeaux liquid (300 g of copper vitriol and 400 g of freshly slaked lime per 10 liters of water).

They clean the stems from dead bark, heal wounds formed from breaks, damage by hares and mice. First, they are treated with copper sulphate (50 g per 1 liter), then the damage is repaired with putty (6 parts of nigrol + 2 parts of molten paraffin + 2 parts of molten rosin) with a gauze bandage applied.

Early spring is the best time to plant fruit trees. Spring planting is especially important for cherries; when planted in autumn, it often freezes. Planted plants must be whitened, well watered and mulched. They begin to propagate berry bushes by layering and cuttings.

It's time to start grafting and re-grafting fruit trees. Before the start of sap flow, they are grafted using the “split”, “side cut” and “wedge” methods. “Bridges” are placed on the damaged parts of the boles - healthy, well-developed, last year’s annual cuttings of any winter-hardy variety not damaged by frost are grafted. On a trunk up to 10 cm thick, 4-5 shoot bridges are placed with an interval of 5-7 cm around the circumference.

They examine the buds of blackcurrant and, if they find swollen round buds - carriers of one of the dangerous pests - bud mites, they break them out. Cut out branches affected by a glass case, or with a large number of swollen buds. Collected infected buds and branches are burned. Sprayed before bud break, affected by powdery mildew and anthracnose, currant and gooseberry bushes to choose from: nitrafen, karbofos or Bordeaux mixture.

Weed and loosen shrubs (currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, raspberries, blackberries, Japanese quince, hazelnut hazelnuts, cherries, etc.), removing dry, thin, lying, too old, broken, thickening branches. Untie raspberries and blackberries. At the same time, the tips of the branches are cut off, cutting out dry, infected stem gall midges, shortening the frozen branches to live buds.

Until the buds wake up, tie raspberry shoots on the trellis - so the plants will be better illuminated by the sun and the berries will ripen earlier. The garter will facilitate the care of plants.

Plots of strawberries are cleared of whiskers and old leaves, collected and burned. Fertilize under strawberries and loosen the soil. Plants that are very bare, sticking out of the soil, bore. Planting young bushes. Dead bushes are replaced with new ones (stocked from autumn). During the period of possible frosts, strawberries are covered.

The most important work of the gardener in April is preparing to protect the orchard from spring frosts. In the period from blooming buds to the end of the formation of ovaries, the gardener must monitor the air temperature in order to prepare in a timely manner for the protection of flowers and ovaries. One of the oldest and most affordable ways to protect the garden from frost is smoking. A smoke screen helps keep the warmth in the garden from the soil during the night. Therefore, already at the beginning of the month, brushwood, straw manure, peat, turf, fallen leaves, potato tops, sawdust, wood chips and other materials for arranging smoke heaps are prepared. Prepared smoke heaps are set on fire from the leeward side when the temperature drops to + 2°C. The coldest temperatures during frost occur before sunrise.

In the garden

When the snow melts and the earth dries a little, it's time to prepare the soil for sowing garden seeds. Cultivate and rake all the beds dug up in the fall. Dig up the beds and plots that were not dug up in the fall with the addition of compost, superphosphate and ash.

In the first half of April, it's time to sow green crops: dill, lettuce, watercress, cilantro, mustard leaf, Beijing cabbage, as well as radishes, peas, beans, sunflowers.

At the end of the month, seeds of cold-resistant plants are sown: carrots, onions, parsley, radishes, lettuce, dill, parsnips, etc. Turnips, radishes, rutabaga, peas are sown almost simultaneously and onion sets are planted, a little later - beets. Starting from the second decade, sow a cucumber, plant an early tomato under film shelters and in greenhouses.

If the grown seedlings of early white and cauliflower have 5-6 leaves and have been hardened, they are planted in late April - early May in open ground.

If in the previous year you were annoyed by a bear and wireworms, do not forget to decompose poisoned baits with the onset of warm days.

In the ornamental garden and flower garden

After the snow thaws and the soil warms up at a depth of 5-10 cm, the condition of the lawns is checked. In places where plants fall out from freezing or getting wet, grasses are oversowed. To do this, the soil in the places of attacks is dug up, leveled and seeds of lawn grasses are sown at the rate of 30-40 g per 1 m2. Crops are covered with a rake, compacted from above with the back side, and watered from a watering can with a mesh nozzle.

Covers are removed from roses, hydrangeas and other ornamental plants, the soil around the bushes is loosened and loosened.

Pruning of roses is carried out: in remontants, 6-8 buds are left on each shoot, in tea-hybrid and polyanthus - 2-3 buds, in climbing and park only dead, broken and weak branches are removed.

Replant ornamental trees and shrubs. In flower beds (flower beds, borders) seedlings of viola, daisies, forget-me-nots, calendula and other annuals resistant to spring frosts are planted.

At the end of April, sweet peas, matthiola can be sown on the plot, the shoots of which endure short-term frosts. During this period, bulbous perennial early-flowering ones are looked after: daffodils, tulips, hyacinths. They are fed with mineral fertilizers per 1 m2: urea 20 g, superphosphate 20 g and potassium salt 15 g. After that, they will loosen around the sprouts that appear, and if it is dry, water it.

In the last decade, plant germinated gladiolus bulbs (distance from each other 10-15 cm, between rows 20-25 cm). Children of gladioli should be planted until mid-April on a compacted grid (3-5 15 cm).

Before planting the bulbs and children, soak in a solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes. The bulbs can be divided into 2-3 parts, depending on the number of sprouts, by treating the wound surface with brilliant green or coal powder. Plant in a hole up to 10 cm deep with the bottom down or on the edge and even upside down. Gladiolus grown in one place for no more than two years.

Unwind the climatis and raise specimens with lashes uncut in autumn onto the trellis, cut off the dry tips, fill with nitrogen fertilizer.

If the perennials in your garden are overgrown and shredded, it's time to separate them. Trim the edges of the bush with a sharp knife and carefully remove from the ground. Sprinkle cuts with charcoal.

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Spring is coming with increasing speed, in April, gardeners and gardeners will have a lot of work. To help novice gardeners plan these works correctly, this article was written. We hope that it will be of interest to both gardeners, and gardeners, and amateur flower growers.

1. Work in the garden in April.
2. April worries of flower growers.

What work should be done in April in the garden

Your garden: works of the month

April work in the country, start with deep loosening of the soil. At the same time, apply fertilizers under fruit and berry crops: nitrogen, phosphorus-potassium and organic.

Strongly compacted clay areas will have to be dug to a depth of 10-15 cm. If the melt water lingers in the garden and the soil is too wet, dig shallow grooves to drain the water.

In April, dacha subbotniks are traditionally held, and work is carried out to clean up the garbage accumulated over the winter.

Release the boles from the winter strapping, unwind the young trees. Clean trunks and skeletal branches of dead bark. Finish pruning the crowns of fruit trees. Cut out the growth. Cover wounds and large cuts with garden pitch.

Pay attention to berry bushes

Spend in April the final pruning of berry bushes. Pluck out enlarged currant buds inhabited by mites.

In mid-April, blackcurrants are propagated with lignified annual cuttings. A cutting 16-18 cm long is cut at the bottom under the kidney itself, at the top - 1-1.5 cm above the kidney. The cuttings are planted in loose, well-prepared soil, obliquely, leaving 1 bud above the ground. Watering, mulching.

In autumn, young cuttings are cut to a height of 10-15 cm, and in the fall of the following year they are planted in a permanent place.

Cuttings of red and white currants are cut and planted in early September. Gooseberries are easier to propagate by layering.

Start caring for strawberries by cleaning the plantation from covering materials, last year's leaves, and extra whiskers.

Try to loosen the aisles early to a depth of 4-5 cm, correct the bushes. Strawberries are very responsive to early loosening. Feed strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers.

Spray abiga-peak fungicide (50 g) with the addition of Novosil (2 ml) per 10 liters of water.

Cut raspberries into well-developed buds. Loosen the soil and fertilize with organic matter mixed with complex mineral fertilizers. Mulch the aisles with compost, humus with a layer of 4-5 cm.

Planting seedlings in April

In April, plant fruit trees, if you did not do it in the fall. Choose 1-2-year-old seedlings, with a good root system, the buds should not yet bloom.

Before planting, soak the seedlings to restore the turgor of the root system, make a clay mash. Water abundantly after planting, mulch the hole with organic matter.

Make a crown pruning of the seedling to restore the connection between the roots and the future crown. If there are lateral branches, cut off one-third of the entire aerial part to the outer kidney.

Shorten the central conductor 20-30 cm above the level of skeletal branches. On a trunk (40-50 cm), blind all the kidneys.

Be sure to treat the garden from diseases and pests in April

Early spring is an important period for protecting the garden from pests and diseases. The apple flower beetle wakes up first - already during the swelling of the kidneys. He is still a little active, cannot fly and climbs into the crown along the stem. To delay him, put trapping belts on the stems, best of all glue.

How to use trap belts

Clean the area of ​​​​the trunk on which the belt is applied from dead bark so that there are no passages for insects under the belt. Make a belt from thick paper or soft cardboard, burlap and spread it with caterpillar glue.

You can make a belt from old cotton wool, loosening it a little: insects get stuck in it. To protect from rain, cover the belt with a polyethylene visor. If there is no caterpillar glue, you can treat the belt with a chemical preparation.

Apply a belt in the middle or upper part of the trunk, or you can put two.

Late with the belt - shake off the pests!

When the buds begin to bloom, it will be too late to impose belts. All wintered beetles will already have time to climb into the crown. It remains only to shake them off on a litter early in the morning, when the air temperature is not higher than 10 degrees.

Before pushing the buds, spend 3-4 shaking. But this is only possible for those gardeners who come to the dacha not only on weekends. The rest will have to use chemical means of protection.

At the beginning of bud break (the “green cone” phase), larvae of aphids, suckers, caterpillars of leafworms, winter moths, cherry moths, weevils, pipeworms and other pests gather on the buds.

Chemical pest and disease control

In April, trees and berry bushes can be sprayed with fufanon or a spark, or kemifos (10 ml per 10 liters of water), or alatar (5 ml). Treat currants against red gall aphids and diseases with kinmix (2.5 ml) + topaz (2 ml).

If the trees in your garden were affected by scab, moniliosis, cluster sporiosis (cherries, plums, apricots), spray very effective at this time with a 3% Bordeaux mixture (300 g of copper sulphate + 400 g of lime per 10 liters of water).

On open leaves, use only 1% Bordeaux mixture. Instead, other fungicides can be used on the leaves - chorus, scoring, gamair, raek.

In the third decade of April, spray raspberries against aphids, moths and other pests with Fufanon (10 ml) with the addition of estrasol (10 ml) or Novosil (3 ml).

In the second decade of April, spray peaches against moniliosis and leaf curl over the “green cone” with abiga-peak (40 g per 10 l of water).

At the end of the month, before flowering, spray pome crops with a biostimulant (Novosil or extrasol) to increase resistance to adverse conditions (frosts, etc.).

To improve the keeping quality of fruits and their resistance to rot, carry out foliar top dressing with a solution of calcium nitrate (50 g) with the addition of extrasol

What work awaits gardeners in April

Vegetable garden: work of the month

Preparing an early harvest

The sooner you start the gardening season, the more you will do in the spring, the richer the harvest you will get. Many summer residents after winter come to the site for the first time in April. Naturally, the first thing we do is inspect the beds: like garlic, onion sets planted in late autumn overwintered.

If for the winter we threw beds with these crops with leaves, grass, we remove everything so that the soil warms up faster, we loosen it, we apply nitrogen fertilizers (a tablespoon of urea per sq. M).

If there are heads of garlic left at home after the winter, we plant them as early as possible. It does not make sense to store further, and in the ground the teeth will form large single-toothed bulbs, which will fit both in the kitchen and for winter planting. We plant in April and onion sets.

We clean the areas where perennials grow from plant debris (batun onion, chives, asparagus, rhubarb), loosen the soil.

We cover the beds with foil

If at the beginning of April it is not warm enough, you can cover the beds with a film or non-woven material on arcs - we will get the first greenery faster. It is better to use a new film: through it the sun will warm the soil faster. But if the old film is still strong, we wash it properly. In warm weather, we remove the shelter.

In April, it is necessary to unwind rhubarb in the garden, we feed it with complex mineral fertilizer for spring application.

If there is a desire to plant a bush, we take divisions from the periphery of the bush. There, the buds are stronger and, therefore, will give life to more productive plants. Yes, and they shoot later.

In the same way, you can do with an overgrown lovage bush.

Sorrel can be fed with a weak solution of nitrogen fertilizers (0.5 teaspoon of urea or ammonium nitrate per sq. M).

If the sorrel grows well, then we do not feed it in order to protect ourselves from nitrates. Leaves that have grown to 10 cm can already be cut or plucked.

If the sorrel bed is more than one year old, in April it's time to sow it in another place - for a replacement. At the beginning of summer, we will harvest leaves from young plants, and dig up the old bed.

Cold-resistant plants should be sown in April

We do not postpone the sowing of other cold-resistant crops for May:

• lettuce
• spinach
• dill
• parsley
• carrots
• parsnips
• chard
• arugula
• Japanese cabbage
• radish

While it is not hot, in the soil moistened with snow and rain water, they are friendlier and will sprout faster.

Polka dots. Don't forget to sow brain peas in April. It’s hard to find a better treat at the beginning of summer than sweet peas for kids. Peas sown in May sprout worse, and finish blooming and fruiting faster.

With sowing seeds for seedlings in beds covered with foil, it is better not to rush. Let the weed seeds germinate first. On beds covered with foil, weeds begin to sprout after 2-3 days. By loosening the soil, we will greatly facilitate the life of garden plants, which we will sow for seedlings, for an early harvest.

Cabbage. In mid-April (weather permitting), we plant seedlings of all kinds of cabbage in the beds - white cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi, Beijing, Brussels sprouts. Lettuce seedlings will not be afraid of temporary cold snaps. In case of a sharp cold snap, these beds can always be found with something to cover.

Asparagus. We plant a bed with asparagus high (by 20-25 cm) with earth or a mixture of earth and compost, humus to get bleached shoots. You can just add humus, compost, sawdust.

We level the surface of the embankment, lightly tamp it down in order to notice the shoots breaking through the soil layer in time. Already in April, you can cook asparagus salad, scrambled eggs or cook soup. Children enjoy eating fresh asparagus shoots, comparing their taste with green peas.

We plant potatoes

We do not postpone the planting of potato tubers. If the weather is warm, you should not wait until the tubers laid out for germination give sprouts and roots at home: it is better to identify them in a permanent place - in the garden.

Small areas of potato can be covered with foil or non-woven material: the potatoes will rise faster. The 1-2 weeks "saved" in the spring will have a positive effect not only on the timing, but also on the quality and quantity of the crop.

Before planting, we discard tubers with rot spots, filamentous sprouts. We do not plant potatoes in the areas that he occupied in previous years, and next to the beds allocated for planting tomatoes.

Sow herbs

At the end of the month, you can sow spicy herbs on the beds:

• basil
• lemon balm
• thyme
• snakehead
• marjoram
• hyssop.

They will take up little space, but they will bring enormous benefits: both to the plants on the site, protecting from pests, and to us, giving a unique taste and aroma to drinks, meat and fish dishes, marinades and pickles.

After sowing, it is advisable to cover the beds with non-woven material, paper, in order to retain moisture in the soil until germination. We use the film for these purposes only if we visit the country house every day and have the opportunity to remove it in case of a sharp warming.

Our spring is unpredictable, and heat can happen in April: under the film, tender shoots will burn out in a matter of minutes. We can't even find traces of them.

Don't forget about pests

In April, it is already necessary to take measures to protect garden plants. Radish, cabbage, watercress, mustard can be harmed by cruciferous flea. We dust the crops with sifted wood ash, install glue traps. Loosening the soil and the same wood ash will help against the cruciferous fly.

Some summer residents, in order to protect cabbage, radish from pests, grow them under a thin non-woven material on arcs, pressing it tightly to the soil.

We take care of the soil

In an effort to sow and plant faster, let's not forget to walk with a rake through the beds dug up since autumn. If this is not done while the soil is wet, then you will have to expend several times more effort to level the beds, and the beneficial spring moisture will be irretrievably lost.

The soil ready for cultivation does not stick to the rake, but crumbles without forming large lumps. In low, shaded places, we cultivate the soil last, let it dry so as not to compact.

We remove all plant debris from the site left after the last season, and lay it in layers in a compost heap, pouring each layer with soil or humus, compost. If we regularly moisten the pile, the compost will ripen by autumn.

In early April, it is still possible to sow fast-growing green manure (mustard, phacelia) beds set aside for planting seedlings of nightshade crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants).

Fight weeds

When preparing the beds for planting, we carefully select the rhizomes of wheatgrass, thistle, field bindweed and other perennial weeds from the soil. In a week we will return to these beds to pull out the weeds that have appeared from the ground.

Couch grass is persistent in its desire to develop all the new beds of the garden, but we will be more persistent than him, and we will wipe out couch grass, thistle without the help of herbicides.

What work should be done in April in greenhouses

In early April, the greenhouse should be ready for planting seedlings of tomatoes or cucumbers. If the greenhouse is film, it is better to cover it with a new film, if it is glass, wash the glass thoroughly. We fertilize the soil with organic matter (up to a bucket of compost or humus) or complex fertilizers for spring application (up to two tablespoons per sq. M).

What to plant in a greenhouse

Radish. As an intermediate crop, early varieties of radish can be sown. Although it is cold-resistant, it will quickly form root crops under the film. We immediately try to sow the seeds at the right distance from each other in order to provide the plants with sufficient illumination and feeding area even without thinning.

After 10-15 cm from each other, we make sowing grooves, spill them with hot water and lay out the seeds after 3-4 cm from each other. If we doubt the quality of the seeds (old, frail in appearance), we sow more often - after 1-2 cm,

If the radish sprouts densely, you will have to thin out, otherwise we will not harvest, but admire the flowering of the radish. The seeding depth is about 1.5 cm.

We do not open the greenhouse until the shoots appear: the warmer, the faster the radish will rise. But after germination, the temperature in the greenhouse will have to be controlled by constant ventilation: otherwise, the radish will develop powerful tops, but frail root crops.

During the formation of root crops for radishes, regular watering is very important: the soil should be constantly moderately moist. Interruptions in watering give rise to defects in root crops: they crack.

Dill, garlic, onion. You can sparsely scatter dill seeds in the greenhouse, plant chives and onions in the aisles of future beds. We will not completely remove these crops from the greenhouse even after cucumbers or tomatoes grow. They will help maintain a healthy microclimate in the greenhouse.

Spinach. Spinach is considered a good neighbor and predecessor of most vegetable crops. It can also be sown as an intermediate crop, not only in open beds, but also in a greenhouse. And the sooner the better.

April, with its still not very long daylight hours, is a great time to get vitamin leaves.

To determine the timing of sowing various crops, use the "blooming tips":

• The first crocuses (yellow) have blossomed - you can sow chives, leeks, and after a few days other cold-resistant crops.
• The birch has turned green in the sun - it's time to plant potato tubers for summer consumption, onion sets.
• The flowering of early daffodils will tell you that you can already sow lettuce, plant cabbage seedlings in the beds, sow beets.
• The lilac blossomed violently - you can sow early cucumbers.
• Buds on peonies formed and became clearly visible, viburnum blossomed - the soil warmed up enough for sowing late cucumbers, corn, melons.

April work of flower growers

Your flower garden: work of the month.

The second month of spring is not without reason considered the most time-consuming among summer residents, because the plan for working in the garden and in the garden in April becomes noticeably wider and more complicated. This month, it is important to finally think over the list of future plantings, determine the places on the site for the planned crops and, of course, take care of your favorite dacha. What activities does the calendar of work at the dacha in April provide for, and what needs to be started to be implemented now?

The main work in the country in April

In anticipation of the upcoming summer season, gardeners and gardeners draw up their own individual program of events, which covers the main work at their summer cottage in April. Typically, such a program plan includes such tasks and goals as:

• 1. Tillage and prepare it for future crops.
• 2. Prevention of diseases in healthy trees and shrubs, as well as the restoration and treatment of garden plantings that have suffered from frost, wind, sunburn, pests and diseases during the winter.
• 3. Preparation of planting material for the garden, vegetable garden and flower garden.
• 4. Plant transplantation.
• 5. Reproduction of berry and fruit crops.
• 6. The fight against diseases and pests of the garden, vegetable garden and flower garden.

In addition to these activities, in April they continue to purchase new equipment and covering material, work in wall-mounted greenhouses, greenhouses and greenhouse facilities that stand separately on the site - thus making up for everything that was supposed to be done according to the work plan at the dacha in March.

Garden work in April

One of the most important and time-consuming work in the garden in April is tillage and soil preparation. In many ways, the health and comfort of garden plantings, their protection from pests and disease vectors depend on it in the future.

This paragraph usually provides for the implementation of procedures such as:

• - digging of thawed and slightly dried-up earth (in the old days, the time favorable for digging was determined as follows: they squeezed a lump of earth in a fist and if it crumbled into large pieces on an open palm, they set to work);
• - tillage from pathogens and pests (often for these purposes, places for future plantings are shed with a hot solution of potassium permanganate);
• - application of organic and mineral fertilizers to the soil (if this procedure was not carried out in the fall).

If fertilizers were applied to the soil in advance, then they try not to do the spring digging too deep. Light soils are dug up in spring to a shallower depth than in autumn. Heavy clay soils - to the same depth as in autumn processing.

During digging, wet clods of earth must be broken, because when they dry and petrify, it will be very difficult to deal with them. After the earth has been dug up, its surface is leveled with a rake to minimize moisture loss.

In the process of preparing the soil, organic and mineral fertilizers can be added to it - especially if this was not done in the fall. The calculation of the amount of fertilizers is carried out based on the type and number of plants, the type of soil and the degree of its cultivation, etc.

It is extremely important to once again check the planned planting plan, determine the places for crops, taking into account the crop rotation. On this plan, the location in the garden of ordinary, steam and high ridges, steam combs, warm pits and heaps is often noted. In the future, such a detailed scheme will help save a lot of time when arranging places for future plantings and crops.

In addition to the above events, the main spring garden work in april also include items such as:

• - planning of placement of crops on the site, taking into account the speed of their maturation (early, medium and late ripening), calculation of the area for each of the crops;
• - preparation of seeds, calibration and selection of full-weight specimens for sowing;
• - sowing for seedlings of vegetable plants (leek, cabbage of all kinds), sowing for seedlings of pumpkin crops for film greenhouses - watermelons, cucumbers, melons, etc.;
• - sowing in film greenhouses of radish and cold-resistant green crops.

Around the second half of the month, it is allowed to sow cucumber, squash and zucchini seeds for seedlings for their further cultivation under temporary film shelters.

At the end of April (depending on weather conditions and relative stabilization of above-zero temperatures), you can start sowing cold-resistant crops in open ground - radishes, radishes, spinach, carrots, beets, turnips, onions, beans, lettuce, spring garlic. Their seeds are able to germinate at a soil temperature of +3°…+4°С, and the seedlings that have appeared can withstand short-term and mild frosts down to -5°С.

Also, spring work in the garden in April involves planting early-ripening potatoes at the end of the month (often using film shelters) and sowing mid-ripening cabbage seeds under the film.

Garden work in April

The second month of spring provides summer residents with the opportunity to do everything that was not done in March and postponed since autumn - it is precisely for this reason that the volume of work in the garden in April increases significantly. At this time of the year, the snow begins to melt very quickly, the meltwater quickly leaves the site, and in the garden, not only trees and shrubs wake up from hibernation, but also surviving pests, carriers of dangerous diseases. So that you do not lose sight of any important event, we will give in this part of the publication a detailed list of what work should be done in the garden in April.

So, the plan for working in the garden in April is usually represented by items such as:

• - Inspection of all fruit and berry plantations;
• - pruning of fruit trees, formation of berry bushes;
• - grafting and re-grafting of trees;
• - harvesting planting material, checking seedlings stored and buried since autumn;
• - treatment of plants from overwintered pests and pathogens;
• - cleaning the trunks of adult garden trees, treatment and disinfection of wounds, hollows and damage, pruning dead and dry branches;
• - whitewashing boles and bases of skeletal branches;
• - Digging heavily compacted soil during the winter, digging areas that were not dug up in autumn, as well as loosening dry soil in tree trunks;
• - top dressing of garden plantings;
• - preparation of material for smoke heaps (last year's foliage, needles, cut branches, etc.);
• - carrying out early spring watering - in case the stock of spring moisture in the soil is not enough and the ground is too dry;
• - pruning and burning of tree branches affected by the ringed silkworm;
• - cleaning of old birdhouses and titmouses or installation of new houses and bird feeders;
• - gradual removal of shelters (spruce branches, mulch, etc.) from overwintered plants - this procedure is carried out depending on weather conditions and relative heat stabilization;
• - planting pome, stone fruit and berry crops, transplanting trees and shrubs.

As a rule, everything gardening in april begin with a careful inspection of garden plantings and studying their condition after winter. In the process of inspecting the garden, those trees and shrubs that require transplantation are determined - in the event that, for example, they were not planted in the most suitable place. In addition, while closely examining your garden, you can easily identify crops that have suffered from sunburn, frost, strong winds, pests and diseases.

Pruning fruit and berry crops and cleaning tree trunks

After a thorough inspection of the garden, you can proceed to such a responsible procedure as pruning and shaping fruit trees and shrubs. Our site for gardeners and gardeners recommends following the following sequence of actions here: first, prune blackcurrants, irgi, raspberries, then prune gooseberries, white and red currants, apple trees and pears, and lastly, plums and cherries.

Trees, whose age has crossed the line of 12-15 years, need to be cleaned of old bark in the spring. Desquamating and growing, it becomes covered with moss and eventually becomes a habitat for pathogens and pests.

The cleaning procedure is performed with special scrapers, metal brushes and other devices, after which the bark on the trunks should become smooth and renewed. When cleaning, along the way, it will be necessary to treat the detected wounds, hollows, cracks and bites with a solution of copper sulfate, and then cover them up.

Drawing up a plan for the placement of crops on the site

If in the coming year you plan to diversify your garden with new fruit and berry crops, try to carefully consider their placement on the site. Remember that random planting of vegetables, shrubs and trees is unacceptable. In the future, the randomness of plantings will greatly complicate (if not completely make it impossible) the fight against pests and diseases.

The placement of all crops on the site should be carried out according to the principle of grouping plantings in accordance with their species. Moreover, it is most rational for each berry and fruit crop to have not one, but several varieties with different fruit ripening periods - both early-ripening, and mid- and late-ripening. Such foresight will allow you to receive an uninterrupted harvest of fruits and berries throughout the summer season.

Working with planting material

Such an important point of the work plan on the site in April as the harvesting and checking of planting material requires special attention. Garden crop seedlings must be purchased in autumn or in spring - before the start of the next summer season.

Saplings purchased in the fall are added dropwise for wintering, and in the spring they are carefully examined, assessing the general condition and degree of suitability for planting. Immediately before planting, the condition of the root system of seedlings is examined: dangling and broken roots must be cut with pruners to a healthy place.

Apples and pears are allowed to be planted both in autumn (after the leaves fall off the trees) and in spring (strictly before the buds open). Cherries and plums, in turn, should be planted in the spring, in no case be late with the planting dates, i.e. before bud break.

Planting strawberries

In the second half of April, they begin to prepare the ground for the spring planting of strawberries - at least a week before the scheduled time for planting seedlings. Advance preparation of the soil for strawberries is necessary so that the dug-up earth has time to settle and slightly compact. If you plant strawberries without waiting for the soil to settle, there will be a risk that the roots of the seedlings will become bare after some time, and the plants themselves will begin to hurt and require a transplant. Usually they try to cope with strawberries before April 20-23, since there will be no time left for it at all.

Grafting and propagation of horticultural crops

April is a good month for grafting and propagating horticultural crops. At this time, cuttings of the best pear varieties are grafted into the crown of other pear trees, rooted cuttings of plums and cherries are planted.

At the beginning of the month, lignified cuttings of sea buckthorn, prepared in the fall, and black currant are planted (its cuttings are planted very early, which is called "in the mud"). At the end of April, in turn, they plant such crops as:

• - raspberries (planted root cuttings harvested in the fall);
• - Chinese magnolia vine (offspring are planted from the mother plant with a rhizome plot);
• - actinidia (planted lignified cuttings).

top dressing

Taking into account the fact that in the spring fruit and berry crops require enhanced nutrition, the gardening plan in April necessarily includes such an item as fertilizing overwintered plantations. The most suitable moment for top dressing is considered to be that short interval of time that occurs immediately after the snow has completely melted - during this period, the soil absorbs the applied fertilizers in the best way. It is important to bear in mind that on light sandy areas this period comes and ends much faster than on dense clay soils.

Fruit trees are fed by distributing fertilizers over the soil surface in tree trunks. For better assimilation of top dressing, the fertilized topsoil will need to be dug shallowly.

The approximate consumption of fertilizers per 1 square meter is:

• - 10 g of urea;
• - 0.5 cups of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate (it is allowed to replace all 3 cups of ash);
• - 1 bucket of organic fertilizers (make 1 time in 3-4 years).

Top dressing of berry bushes should be enriched with nitrogen, so it is advisable to increase the dose of urea recommended above to 20 g per 1 sq. meter.

Pest control and disease prevention

One of the biggest jobs in the garden in April is pest control and disease prevention. With the arrival of spring warmth and the gradual disappearance of night colds, pests begin to awaken in the garden, at the same time the activity of bacteria, viruses, and carriers of various diseases increases.

Currant and gooseberry bushes, affected last year by ticks, sawflies, moths and other pests, are treated with karbofos or keltan (based on: 30 g of any of these funds per 10 liters of water).

To protect gooseberries and currants from sucking pests, in turn, allow such proven infusions as:

• - tobacco;
• - mustard;
• - garlic;
• - infusion of onion peel, wood ash, etc.

Plantings are treated with these infusions in the evening or in cloudy dry weather, since the prepared solutions will quickly evaporate in the sun on a hot day and the preventive treatment procedure will be ineffective.

In addition, currant and gooseberry bushes must be carefully examined for their defeat by powdery mildew, gall midge or currant glass. Shoots found with traces of pest activity or signs of disease must be cut and burned.

In order to avoid the development of fungal diseases and the attack of aphids, gooseberries and currants are also recommended to be sprinkled with nitrafen (the solution is prepared from 200 g of 60% paste and 10 liters of water), and the soil under them is treated with the same agent.

To make garden protection even more effective, summer residents use a wide range of pest and disease control methods - including both chemical and agricultural practices (we previously talked about them in the corresponding publication).

Works in the flower garden in April

General plan work in the flower garden in April usually includes activities such as:

• - picking seedlings of annual flowers sown in March;
• - care for seedlings of annuals sown in March (annual creepers dolichos, sweet peas, etc.);
• - top dressing seedlings of flower crops - also sown in March;
• - top dressing of bulbous (hyacinths, daffodils, tulips) and small bulbous crops (scilla, snowdrops, crocuses, muscari, etc.);
• - top dressing of perennial flowers wintered in the ground (astilba, hosta, irises, phloxes, primroses, peonies, lilies of the valley, etc.);
• - loosening of perennials (carried out when the sprouts of flowers become clearly visible);
• - reproduction of rhizomatous perennials by division (carried out after the soil has completely thawed, but the buds have not yet had time to start growing);
• - soil preparation for sowing seeds of annual flowers in open ground (cornflowers, iberis, lavater, clarke, escholcia, mignonette, etc.);
• - gradual removal of shelters from clematis, roses, as well as from the rhizomes of irises, covered with peat or earth before wintering;
• - pruning roses in the 2nd-3rd decade of the month;
• - feeding roses after pruning;
• - planting rose seedlings in a permanent place (after the ground in the flower garden thaws);
• - sowing seeds of perennial flowers grown through seedlings (delphinium, pinnate carnation, aquilegia, leucanthemum, etc.) - these works are carried out in April in about the 2nd decade of the month, after the soil has completely thawed and warms up well under a film or glass.

Intending to carry out the bulk of the work in the flower garden, in the garden or in the garden in April from the list above, it is important to take into account the weather and climatic conditions of your region. The dates given in the publication are more of a guide than a direct recommendation, so do not forget to regularly get acquainted with meteorological forecasts and information from weather forecasters.