How to choose a sauna stove depending on different criteria? Choosing the best stoves for a Russian bath: models with a closed heater and a rating of the best stoves Which model of a stove for a bath is better

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About 25 years ago, doctors finally confirmed: the main secret of the Russian and Finnish baths was revealed, and the discovery turned out to be amazing. One of the consequences of the revival of interest in steam business at a new level is a do-it-yourself sauna stove. Firstly, the demand for bath stoves is still not fully satisfied, so factory-made products are quite expensive. Secondly, both the Russian bath and the sauna are complex hygienic and health-improving complexes, the heart of the bath is the stove, the whole bath is being built around the stove, and it is not possible to foresee all possible combinations of local conditions under conditions of serial production. Therefore, often, even if there are free funds, real connoisseurs first “figure out” a bathhouse in place, and then pick it up or even design a suitable stove for it. This is where this article is meant to help.

The secret of the steam room

And what is the very main secret of bath health? It turned out that short-term, up to 40 minutes, warming up the whole body to about 40 degrees:

• Destroys cells with damaged DNA, i.e. capable of degenerating into cancer.
• Accumulated slags are broken down into forms that are easily excreted from the body.
• Suppresses a certain gene, the function of which was then not entirely clear. Now it is quite clear - this is the aging gene.

By the way, methods of treating cancer are based on the fact that cells with disorders are not as tenacious as healthy ones. From poisons (with chemotherapy) or radiation (with radiation), they die faster than healthy ones. In fact, the beneficial effects of a bath with a steam room are much wider, and its mechanism is more complicated. But for further understanding, this information is enough.

A little bit in passing

Russian banya is inextricably linked with Russian culture. In particular, many well-known Russian painters and sculptors paid tribute to the banya not only in the steam room, but also on canvas and in round sculpture. In the days of the moral code of the builder of communism, works of fine art of such content, of course, were not exhibited to the public, but lay in the storerooms of museums and galleries. The following selection of illustrations aims to fill this gap to some extent.

Sauna with a stove or stove in a bath?

Neither one nor the other. The parameters of the furnace and bath must be linked to each other. Therefore, let us first briefly consider what a bath is. In detail about the device of the bath, the conversation, of course, needs a separate and detailed one. We will only figure out what is essential for the design of a sauna stove.

Russian or Finnish?

There are more than enough disputes about how the Russian bath differs from the sauna. But everyone agrees on the main difference: the temperature and humidity regime. In the Russian bath - 50-70 degrees with a relative humidity of 20-65%; in the sauna - 70-100 degrees at 5-15% humidity. If we turn to physics, then a cubic meter of air in a Russian bath contains 50-80 g of water vapor, and in a sauna - 15-40 g / cu. m. The fact that the steam in the sauna is dry is well known. And from the point of view of medicine with biochemistry, there is also no fundamental difference: both there and there the skin is steamed and becomes permeable from the inside, which helps to remove toxins with sweat, bypassing the usual excretory pathways and not burdening the body. In the sauna, it is not forbidden to “give it with a whisk”, and in the Russian bath you can take a steam bath in a dry way. But the device of the bath itself and the sauna stove are somewhat different in design. Firstly, the Russian bath (see fig.), condo or modern, is a log house; in extreme cases - a box made of timber, lined with a townhouse from the inside. Bulges and depressions inside are necessary to better capture the infrared radiation of the furnace and draw in excess water vapor from the air.

The fact is that the absolute, in grams per cubic meter, humidity in a Russian bath is close to critical for a given temperature range. This accelerates the steaming of the skin and warming up the body throughout its volume, but also increases the risk of unpleasant and harmful heavy steam. The Finnish bath can be both log, and timber, and even frame. But it is necessary to bathe in it in a cap - it protects the hair follicles with sebaceous glands from drying out, which can lead to premature baldness or, conversely, to the appearance of thick and coarse hair-awns, especially on the eyebrows, and excessive hair growth in the nostrils and ears . In relation to the furnace, all of the above means the following: the sauna stove must first warm up the walls of the bath, and only then the air in it. Otherwise, even in the sauna, heavy steam may appear, which at such temperatures is very harmful.

How does someone soar

About 20 years ago, the then good friend of the author, a seasoned Ukrainian owner named Vasily and nicknamed Khakhluy among his own villagers, built himself a Russian bathhouse. The author, who had previously helped him in the construction of the Abyssinian well, was invited to take a steam bath. Melted, settled down. Vasya scooped up some dark brown liquid and pumped it up on the heater. Shibanulo, and - the author felt that he was flying to the moon. At first, he attributed this to a habit - before that he had not bathed for about 5 years. But from the second portion, it “led” the same way. Being already mentally prepared for the next volley, he determined by sensations: euphoria of clearly unnatural origin. - Vasya, what are you pouring on the stove? - That infusion of cannabis. - Vaska, what are you, poof at all? Not only is it a drug, but from such a dose the motor can become! - That yak is dope there ... and the heart of the maine kripke ... clean your eyes kindly ... But let's get back to the baths and sauna stoves.

Bath device

A bath can be either a cramped closet without a foundation, or a solid building, comparable in area to a city apartment. We will return to the second, because. only a brick oven is suitable for it, slowly giving off heat; with a small volume of the steam room, up to 30-35 cubic meters. m - cast iron. In a small one-room bathhouse, you can also put a stove welded from a steel sheet.

Both baths can be light - made of linden or birch, or heavy - made of oak. It is undesirable to build a bath from coniferous wood, as well as from maple, walnut, ash. This wood, when heated for years, especially in an atmosphere with a high content of water vapor, releases volatile substances that are not always useful. The sauna is not so critical to the material of the walls, it can be built even from seasoned pine. The “heaviness” of an oak bath is explained not by the severity of the wood, but by the presence of tannins in it. A heavy bath is not for women and children. And it serves for 5-8 years, then the tannins disappear. But for a strong man, who is able to run a kilometer without being out of breath and without feeling a beating heart, a heavy bath will only give strength and vigor.

Note: according to one version of the famous fairy tale, Alyosha Popovich went out to the Serpent Tugarin several times, but he was able to defeat him only after taking a good steam bath in a heavy bath.

What does this mean for the oven? First, the value of thermal power. If for a light bath enough 0.5 kW / cu. m of room volume for linden and 0.7 kW / cu. m for birch, then for an oak bath you need at least 1.2 kW / cu. m.

Note: the indicated values ​​\u200b\u200bare valid for a ceiling height of 2.2-2.4 m. A ceiling above 2.5 m in a bath is generally undesirable.

Secondly, the weight of the stones for the heater. What stones are needed there, we'll talk below, and by weight you need 2.7 kg / cu. m, for birch 3.6-4 kg / cu. m, and for oak 6 kg / cu. m.

Safety

burns

In an atmosphere with a temperature of 50 degrees, almost any touch to a metal heated to it or above gives a second-degree burn, with a blister. Easily conductive heat metal quickly gives it to the steamed, intensively cooled by sweat glands skin. Nowadays, the problem of thermal safety of bath stoves has been solved: there is an inexpensive, poorly conductive, durable and resistant material on sale - basalt cardboard. A fire-fighting blind area is made from it, they cover the screens of furnaces such as potbelly stoves, etc. From basalt cardboard on wooden racks, you can also make a fencing of the furnace, it is strong enough for this.

frenzy

In hot, humid air, carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxides are likely to form. Therefore, it is possible to “pump” into the furnace with a flow-through heater (see below) only after the end of the furnace and the removal of ash. In any case, it is advisable to lead the furnace door with a blower through the wall into the dressing room, insulating it from the partition in terms of heat with the same basalt cardboard if the furnace is metal.

Fuel

Only good for a bath. It is the physical chemistry of wood burning, the subtleties of which cannot be considered here, that makes it possible to organize the heating of the room from the walls to the center. Coal quickly gives off the first heat - volatile components - and then the remaining carbon (pure carbon) smolders for a long time, which is good for heating, but in the bath it will give heavy steam. A full-fledged replacement for firewood "from the forest, of course" will be fuel pellets from sawdust or straw. They can be recognized by their size: these are poles or logs with a diameter of 30-70 mm. Pellets are also produced specifically for baths, but they are disproportionately expensive. In any case, a bag of pellets costs a little, and a test fire will show what this variety is good for. In terms of physical chemistry, gas with automatic control of the flame by external temperature sensors is also good for baths, but this design is not for do-it-yourselfers. Industrial gas stoves for baths are very expensive and not always reliable: there are no gas fittings that provide 100% safety at an outside temperature of 60 degrees and above. The same applies to bath electric furnaces; Let's mention, the heating element is not even fuel, but still a heater.

Kamenka

Any wood-burning sauna stove is a stove-heater. This means that it has a heated container for stones. The stones work like a heat accumulator: they absorb the first heat, and then give it away with radiation; due to the weak permeability of the stone mass, the convection from the heater is not very strong. As a result, the furnace heats 2/3 or more of the heating time with infrared rays, which ensures that the walls, floor and ceiling are heated before the air and the furnace body itself. In relation to the times of heat transfer by radiation and convection, the opposite is true.

stones

Firstly, in order to comply with the above conditions, it is necessary that the ratio of heat capacity to thermal conductivity of stones be higher than that of brick, not to mention metal. This is provided by dense volcanic rocks: basalt, diabase, gabbro, soapstone. They can be recognized by their severity, dark color, and smooth or very fine-grained fracture.

Brecciated rocks: granite, diorite, syenite, labrador, etc. not suitable for thermal performance. Metamorphic rocks are completely unsuitable: limestone, dolomite, marble, shale. In addition to complete non-compliance with the requirements of heat engineering, when heated, they can also emit harmful organic matter, because. often contain bituminous components.

Note: beautiful veins in marble - this is precisely the bituminous inclusions in it.

Secondly, the stones for the heater should be with a more or less smooth surface and a rounded shape. At the same time, the ratio of their surface to volume is the smallest (the smallest is for the ball), which ensures the desired mode of heat accumulation / heat transfer. In the old days, they began to build a bathhouse only after they had accumulated enough stock of rounded pebbles for the heater.

Stone laying

Equally important is the way the stones are laid. For a flow heater (see below), the largest ones, a fist or two in size, are laid on the bottom, then gradually reduced in size so that the top layer consists of pebbles the size of a thumb knuckle. For a deaf heater, they are laid vice versa: a trifle, which provides the largest area of ​​\u200b\u200bthermal contact, down, and large ones upstairs.

Flowing and blind heaters

A home-made sauna stove can be with a deaf or flowing heater. The deaf heater is separated from the furnace and/or flue gases by a solid partition and is open at the top. It can be pumped into it during the heating process, the stones never need to be sorted out, they remain clean. But, due to the small area of ​​​​thermal contact with the firebox, the deaf heater heats up more slowly. This is especially true with an increase in the size of the furnace, when the area of ​​contact of the pelvis with stones increases more slowly than the volume of stones. Therefore, a deaf heater can only be made in a metal furnace with a power of up to 25 kW, which will provide light steam in a one-room bath with a volume of up to 30-45 cubic meters. m. It is generally impossible to arrange a deaf heater in a brick oven, it will not warm up through a brick.

Note: the ceiling in a bath with a stove with a deaf heater should not be higher than 2.2 m. Otherwise, heavy steam is not excluded.

In a flow heater, the stones are placed in a casing on a grate above the firebox, and the flue gases pass through the stone mass before going into the chimney. A stove with a deaf heater is more difficult, because. a hermetically sealed loading and cleaning hatch is required in the casing of the heater. It is possible to heat such a stove only with firewood that does not give carbon deposits, for example, aspen, or pellets. It is possible to give steam only after complete, up to gray fluffy ash, heating. Stones periodically need to be removed, washed and cleaned. But on the other hand, the stone backfill warms up over the entire surface area of ​​the stones that make it up, and very quickly. This removes any restrictions on the size of the furnace and its power. You can independently make a stove with a flowing heater with a power of up to 50-60 kW, for a bath of three compartments of 50-80 cubic meters. m.

Furnace material

Bath stoves are made of cast iron or welded sheet metal. provides ideal warm-up mode and, when performed correctly, eliminates heavy steam in a bath of any size. But for its construction, full mastery of the art of the stove-maker is required., careful selection for quality and preparation of materials, because She works in difficult conditions. Only possible with flow heater, i.e. It is possible to give steam only after complete combustion of the fuel. The minimum heating time until the bath is ready is 3-4 hours. After long (more than 3-5 days) breaks in using the bath, it is necessary to dry and heat the furnace with accelerating furnaces, otherwise there is a high probability of microcracks appearing in the body of the furnace, especially dangerous in the bath as a source of waste. According to doctors, more than 70% of cases of burning people occur in the bath. As a result, the brick sauna stove is also very voracious. heats up quickly; a bath with it is ready to receive visitors within an hour and a half after kindling. Critical to the design; in case of unsuccessful execution of light steam, do not wait. Cools down also quickly; in order to properly take a steam bath with the whole family, the stove needs to be heated. This is not such a drawback, because. the metal does not crack, but without a fireclay brick lining, a welded furnace can only heat a one-room bathhouse up to 20-25 cubic meters. m volume. A furnace cast from cast iron, according to heat engineering, approaches a brick, because the thermal conductivity of cast iron is low, and the heat capacity is high. In terms of cost and ease of use - to welded. Most industrial sauna stoves are cast iron.

Choosing an oven

Which stove is best for a bath? Which one will you have to buy, and which one can you make yourself? It depends on the volume of the bath and the nature of its use. For a large bath for three or four compartments, which is described below, only a brick oven or a large cast iron iron of industrial manufacture, with a stone filling of 150-250 kg, is suitable. Such baths, as a rule, are collective for commercial purposes and are constantly heated. We will further consider the design of the furnace for it, but just as an example of complexity, although industrial conditions for its construction are not required.

Note: a brick stove with a flowing heater is suitable for both a Russian bath and a sauna. In the latter case, they simply heat it more strongly and do not splash anything into the heater.

For a private bath, heated once or twice a week, but designed for a family with in-laws and also a multi-room, but smaller area, a factory-made cast-iron stove would be the best option. There are many models on sale, of different capacities and price categories; we will touch on them. All of them allow underflooding when washing, and many are equipped with a hot water circuit. And, finally, for a summer cottage or a small individual bath, for a family of 3-4 people, with one or two compartments, one of the home-made steel stoves described below is quite suitable. Which of them is more suitable for which bath is indicated in the description.

Everything big, real

Bath

Let's decide first what kind of bath we can build. If the hut is up to about 3x4 m or an extension to the house of the same size, this section can be skipped, except, perhaps, for information about the construction of beds and bath equipment. Although this is already known to everyone. Here we will describe the bath, arranged, as they say, according to the full scheme. Her plan is shown in Fig. on right. Designations:

1. Capital (bearing) wall;
2. Light wooden partition;
3. dressing room;
4. washing department;
5. steam room;
6. Lying, it may not be, but in return - bridges to the reservoir;
7. Sauna stove with a deaf heater;
8. Furnace firebox;
9. Kamenka;
10. Chimney;
11. The foundation of the furnace (flooring is conventionally not shown);
12. Sand bedding;
13. Double entrance door;
14. Ordinary single door;
15. Fiber window, approximately 400 mm wide and 250 mm high. It is necessary that, if necessary, quickly release excess heat without chilling the compartment;
16. Ordinary swing window;
17. Water heating register (water heater);
18. Hot water storage tank suspended from the ceiling;
19. Steam room equipment: a tub of hot water, a ladle, brooms. Gangs, benches, soap, washcloths - in the washing room (4);
20. Polaty;
21. Tub with cold water.

We will give the necessary explanations. About what the walls of the bath should be, it has already been said. By paragraph 7 - it is understood that a cast iron stove for a Russian bath is installed. The disadvantages of a deaf heater in it do not affect how the heater works and the cast iron of the stove itself. And give at any time to the heater, which will immediately warm up again, where it is more convenient. To item 9. The stove on the foundation should be located so that the projection of its center of gravity (and not the center of the chimney, as is often incorrectly written) falls on the geometric center of the foundation. Otherwise, the furnace may warp due to the heating of the soil under other conditions of its stability. To item 10. The device of the chimney is shown in the figure, which shows the sectional view of the bath. Fire safety for a bath is vital, and factory stoves, as a rule, are not equipped with chimney elements and materials, with the exception of its lower knee with a gate. This must be taken into account when drawing up an estimate for the bath.

To pp. 11 and 12. The design of the furnace foundation is shown in fig. below. Its foundation must be necessarily separate and not in any way in contact with the foundation of the building. Sand filling is also mandatory; without it, the stability of the furnace cannot be achieved. Fire-resistant blind area (dark blue in the figure) - from basalt cardboard.

Note 6: for a cast-iron furnace with a power of up to 20 kW, a simplified foundation is possible from ready-made reinforced concrete monoliths laid directly on the ground.

To pp. 17 and 18. There are many designs of homemade stoves with a built-in hot water tank. They all have a common vice: the water in the tank boils before the heater warms up. Keeping the tank empty and running hot water into it is then dangerous: from the instantaneous release of a large amount of steam, the stove can simply explode. It is also impossible to make a safety valve in the tank or open its plug: the uncontrolled flow of water vapor into the room will give heavy steam. Therefore, the only acceptable solution is a U- or W-shaped hot water register in the firebox in combination with a storage tank, see fig.:

However, if the bath is not used every day, then the heated water will cool in vain. Here again, the only acceptable solution is a bathhouse in the form of an extension to the house, and along with the bathhouses, the branch pipes of the register of a kitchen or heating stove are brought into the tank. Then the tank will be a common hot water storage tank for the entire household.

Note: factory furnaces with a correctly calculated hot water circuit, of course, this does not apply.

To pp. 19 and 20. The inventory for the steam room is wooden, see fig. Otherwise, burns cannot be avoided. Beds need two or three tiers, see next. rice. on the right. So each of the steamers can settle down according to their taste and health. It is not only a question of taste - you can put a stove of less power in the same bath and take a steam bath for several people. Very noticeable in terms of fuel costs.

And a brick oven

And if you want to make a bath completely in the old fashioned way? Or, let's say, several owners agreed to distribute expenses, bath days, hire a stove-maker, and jointly build a bath in general according to all the rules? Well, in order to know what you need to get in the end, and to control the quality of work - in fig. on the right is a brick stove for a bath. We will give the order below, but for now let's talk about materials and accessories:

• All parts in contact with flames or flue gases - only fireclay bricks; in fig. (below) highlighted in yellow.
• The seams between fireclay and ordinary brick, between any brick and metal - from 6 to 10 mm.
• Halves and three-four bricks are ready-made, with smooth edges. Chopped or sawn by a grinder, they will go anywhere except for a sauna stove.
• All doors and the grate are cast iron, others will not last long in the bath.
• The grate of the heater is made of channels; best of all - pieces of used rail, i.e. forged in the cold wheels of a train or tram.
• Masonry - medium fat with sand 1:1.
• Sand - calcined, washed and sifted through a sieve with a mesh of 0.15-0.25 mm, ravine or mountain, with ribbed granules. River sand with rounded granules is not suitable for a sauna stove, it gives microcracks.
• Facing - from the front, smooth and with rounded corners, brick. This will give optimal heat transfer in both convection and radiation modes.

The fat content of the solution is checked “on a stick”. Planed, wooden. Let's say a mop handle. They put it into the solution, mixed to the density of sour cream, take it out and look. A continuous layer of 1.5-2 mm should remain. If it runs off, leaving gaps, the clay is too thin. If bumps or lumps are visible, it is too oily. Now ready-made dry clay of any fat content is sold in construction stores. If they dug the clay themselves (this must be done from a depth of at least 1-1.5 m), and it is too greasy, then crushed brick can be added. Not sand! Brick is made from clay. But this is not the best option, and not because oily natural clay is a valuable raw material and it is not so easy to get it. It is much better, although more troublesome, to grease the skinny ravine clay. Then there will definitely not be any foreign particles in it that cause the same microcracks. Grease the clay by grinding:

• Dry clay broken into small lumps is poured into a barrel for 1/4-1/3.
• Fill to the top with water.
• The mixer is “pounded” until a homogeneous slurry is obtained.
• As soon as the top of the batch begins to lighten (this means that a precipitate has begun to fall), the upper third of the solution is drained.
• When all the clay settles and is visible through the water, the rest of the water is drained, and the silt coating is removed from the “cap”.
• Mix the masonry mortar and check for fat content as described.

As a rule, one extortion is enough. In the old days, stove-makers for wealthy customers laid sauna stoves precisely on labored clay. And now in industry, clay is fattened in a similar way.

Ordering and drying

The order of the furnace for the bath is shown in fig. on right. The principle of masonry -, i.e. dressing of seams is necessary only between rows, and in rows the seams can be untied. The first row is laid out on a dry sheet of metal laid on a foundation and covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard 4-6 mm thick. Seams between fireclay bricks - 3 mm. Undercutting the corners, where necessary, is done with a grinder with a stone circle No. 220-240. On the 22nd row, the filling of the heater is conditionally shown; here it ends. Backfilling is done after drying the furnace and accelerating furnaces. The oven is dried for at least 2 weeks at a temperature of 20-30 degrees, i.e. you need to build a furnace in the warm season. After drying, you need at least 4-5 accelerating furnaces with high-quality fuel (aspen wood or pellets), with an interval of 12 hours. Bookmark fuel for the first acceleration give 4-5 kg, and gradually increase to the maximum. With a break in the furnace for more than a week, one accelerating furnace is needed for a third of the load, and after a month of inactivity - 2-3 with an increase in load from a quarter to full.

Video: brick sauna stove

We take care of the metal

Now let's try to choose a prototype for a welded homemade stove. Drawings of some well-proven designs are shown in fig.

Bath potbelly stove

This one differs from the well-known one by the presence of a tray for stones and the bottom of the firebox paved with dry, without mortar, fireclay bricks. On the arches on the sides of the heater (from 8-12 mm steel bar) they put a bucket or boiling water with water when kindling. It is not so much the stones that heat it, but the convection currents between the screen and the furnace body. This contributes to the creation of an optimal mode for warming up the bath, and a 20-liter decoction heats up in 30-40 minutes, covered with a lid, up to 50 degrees. It is quite enough for two and there will be more for a child. A screen for a sauna potbelly stove is even more necessary than for a heating one: the stone tray disrupts the circulation of hot gases in the furnace, and the stones take a lot of heat for themselves. It is undesirable to apply thermal insulation to the screen when the volume of the bath is close to the limit; it must effectively emit IR to the outside. Therefore, in this case, a fence must be made for the stove. A sauna stove is suitable for a very small bathhouse, up to 20 cubic meters. m volume. It does not need a foundation, it can simply stand on a layer of basalt cardboard. The height of the direct chimney is 4-5 m, the damper is not needed. The draft is regulated according to the season and the weather by a sliding damper made of a galvanized strip that covers part of the holes in the firebox door, but at least 2 should not overlap. Sauna potbelly stove can be drowned during washing. You can give no more than 0.25 liters at a time with an interval of at least 20 minutes, otherwise the heater will get cold and heavy steam will come out. Kvass in a small bath is more than enough.

Note: do not give bottled store-bought kvass. Instead of bread, the spirit is such that you can even endure the saints. Soon, probably, children will also be made from powdered concentrates.

Without brick

This is an all-welded stove made of 4-6 mm sheet for a small sauna, also up to 20-25 cubic meters. m. The design is simple and clear from the figure, it heats the steam room quickly, which is good. But there is nowhere to attach a water heater, which is bad. On the hatch of the heater, a maximum of a bucket will heat up to 40 degrees in an hour. It is not necessary to screen this stove, but it is desirable to isolate it. Most of the heat goes into the stones anyway, the screen simply has nothing to reflect. Therefore, in such a simple stove, it was necessary and blew: there is no vortex in the furnace, and the efficiency, which is already low for sauna stoves, will come out completely unimportant. The grate is made of fittings welded along.

in a case

A brick oven in a metal case made of 3-4 mm steel is already suitable for a sauna, and for a Russian bath of 30-40 cubic meters, which it will heat up in 2 hours. Therefore, a U-shaped hot water register can be built into the smoke circulation, during which time it will give out into the accumulator of 40 liters of 50-degree water. Enough for three or four. The masonry is made of fireclay, the stove is without foundation. The screen is not needed for the reasons described above, but the fence is necessary - the temperature of the case is more than 100 degrees. Before washing and steaming, the oven must be completely heated; keeps warm for about an hour.

From the barrel

This stove is similar in properties to the all-welded sauna stove. It is just as difficult to put a water heater in it. But it is very simple in execution and therefore suitable for giving with a sauna-shed up to 15 cubic meters. You can heat it during washing / steaming, but you can’t press it in any way: for the sake of simplicity of design, a cleaning / loading hatch is not provided in the heater. Therefore, with frequent use, this stove will be short-lived. This stove is made like this: a concrete slab is placed directly on the ground, or a mini-pit is poured with concrete. Then a cube is laid out from an ordinary red brick; at the top, fittings are embedded in the masonry, forming a grate of the heater. A metal barrel without bottoms is piled on this pedestal and lined from the inside with fireclay on clay. You can simply coat the inside with a layer of very thick (plasticine consistency) fatty clay solution of 50-60 mm. Fireclay bricks will also go a little, they are put upright with a spoon. Finally, the top of the barrel is welded with a sheet of 2-4 mm steel with the first chimney elbow welded into it - a cut of a 100 mm pipe - and the sauna is ready.

Fast

This stove is also of a country type, or for a hunting lodge. It is already made entirely from a barrel and can be installed directly on the ground. The grate of the heater is made of welded fittings. The inner lining is the same as the previous one. The oven heats up the bathhouse-closet of cubes by 10-12 in 15-20 minutes. and cools down just as quickly. Therefore, it is designed, without underflooding, for washing alone with a little steaming, or hastily together. But with such a speed of bathing procedures, there is no danger that the water in the boiler will boil, and here it is arranged according to the principle of titanium, covering the chimney. The capacity of the boiler is 15-20 liters, which is enough for one or two.

Video: a simple homemade metal stove for a bath

About brick cases

You can find advice to cover metal furnaces with bricks on the outside, this allegedly improves their properties. In fact, the outer lining does not improve anything, but only worsens. The metal of the furnace, not being able to give off heat, heats up to orange and quickly burns out even with a thickness of 8-10 mm. And the heat transfer to the heater, even if it is deaf, even if it is flowing, almost does not improve. The outer lining only does not release IR, and such a furnace most often produces heavy steam.

Pipe stove

Here in the figure - a stove for a bath of large diameter.

Pieces of 525-mm pipes rarely lie in the trash, but if there is one, this is a godsend:

• No foundation needed, just insulation from the floor and walls.
• Heats a bath up to 35 cubic meters.
• A deep, double-heated deaf heater allows you to pressurize the firebox at any time.
• The mouth of the firebox extended forward with a blower easily goes into the dressing room.
• The round shape in the section gives the optimal combination of radiation with convection, which is why such a stove heats the bath almost twice as much as the “bourgeois” one at almost the same heat output.
• The heater tray in the smoke circulation is covered by a U-shaped hot water register without the slightest loss of the qualities of the stove.

Note: The water heater must not be placed flat. It is necessary to tilt slightly across so that the hot water supply pipe is higher than that of the return flow.

About hot water boilers

Not every sauna stove can be so easily integrated with a hot water circuit. And to heat water for a bath in the kitchen and carry buckets is nonsense. And it is not always possible, because a bathhouse can stand on the outskirts. But you can attach an annular hot water boiler to any sauna stove by putting it on the chimney pipe. The degree and time of heating can be adjusted by moving the boiler up and down.

From waste materials, in order not to master and not order complex welding and tinsmith work, a reliable and durable boiler is well obtained from two worthless rims of automobile wheels and a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter, see fig. Excess holes are welded without special care with any suitable pieces of metal. The boiler is attached to the chimney by the protruding ends of the axial pipe with clamps.

Purchased

If you have sufficient funds, buying a stove for a bath is not a problem. Models, as already mentioned, are offered a lot. The world's leading producers are Finland and Russia. The Finns make Helo, Kastor, Harvia, Narvi, Iki, Upo, Tulikivi and others. Kastor is called the "stove Mercedes", and, I must say, the Finns do not take money "for an asterisk". Of the Russian ones, Termofor, Teplodar, Ermak, Inzhkomtsentr VVD, Vulkan, Sukhovey are known on the market, but firstly, Troika can be especially noted. These are solid, expensive stoves for wealthy customers or commercial bathing establishments. In Finland itself, in saunas, you can often find Troikas, which, with equal quality, reliability and durability, are much cheaper than Mercedes from the stove. "Troek" produces a wide range of models, see Fig., of different capacities and configurations. The disadvantage, and that conditional one, is only one: a large, in comparison with analogues from other manufacturers, weight. The installation of Troika, designed for the company, requires a strong, reliable foundation and a whole team of workers.

Bath stoves “Troika”

This is explained by the fact that the company, without further ado, achieves ideal bath heat engineering in an “oak” way: by increasing the thickness of the material and the weight of the stones. In Troikas, the load required according to specifications can exceed 250 kg, and the entire furnace pulls more than a ton. Cast iron ATBs have long been popular among a wide range of consumers, see fig. below, well-proven for small private baths and affordable. Of the models available for sale, only ATB2 had a serious defect: boiling water in the boiler before the heater warmed up. But craftsmen quickly found a way out: they turned the firebox lid upside down, opposite to the standard installation. At the same time, the path of flue gases in the heat exchanger was reduced, and at the cost of some decrease in efficiency, which is not significant for an infrequently heated bath, the water was heated just in time.

But the stove had to “turn the horns” before its installation, because. the chimney hole went back from the firebox, and then why not break the ceiling, attic and roof? Therefore, they soon came up with another method: they put something under the legs of the tank (it just stands on the body of the furnace) to lift it from the firebox. This method of adjusting the water temperature in the boiler is applicable to almost all ATB models.

Camping bath

Camping baths were invented by tourists. But not those who buy tours to Thailand, but those who go anywhere at any time of the year and in any weather. In the Sayans, during the spring thaw, on a day trip to the bathhouse, oh, how you want ... your whole body aches, and squelches from dirt and behind the scruff of the neck ... It will be on the ointment if there is a hollow next to a flat place for a tent with rather steep walls for a fire. Then - aluminum tubes from the tent frame or easel backpacks; in winter - from ski poles. They connect the pipe segments with socks washed in the snow, they dry out so quickly, tied with laces from vibrams. It remains to make a fire, bring the end of the pipe with an upward slope into the tent, and put its other end into the flame, but so that the mouth is away from the fire and fresh air enters it, see fig.

Such a bath saved not only from dirt and fatigue. The author knows a case when, thanks to her, the group survived in a critical situation. On a winter night, a tree fell on the tent. After that, only one could move, but there was no question of going for help. Then he built a hut from spruce branches, dragged his comrades there, then built a stove from a fire with a pipe, and stoked it until the deadline passed and the rescuers came. In the hospital, everyone then lain from a month to six months, two received a disability - but everyone survived. And without a shelter with heating at minus 15-20, they would freeze in an hour or two.

And after baths?

There was once an acquaintance of the author - a Finn. And in Finland then there was a dry law, and the valiant representative of Scandinavia regularly came to Leningrad for the weekend to get drunk there to death, in the prone, to the green serpent. Once he caught himself at the beginning of a drinking bout, decided to quit and asked him to give him a bath. Russian, with a broom, from which the birch spirit penetrates to the marrow of bones. Having steamed properly, I concluded: “You know, your bath is still different” - “Why?” - “After your tea I want. Strong. With jam "-" And after yours? - "Vodka. A lot of. woman. Rarely". However, this difference is explained, most likely, not by the actual difference between the Russian and Finnish baths, but by the individual characteristics of Eino and a series of his previous sprees.

The stove is the heart of any bath. Wood, electric or gas, home-made or factory-made, budget or expensive - a person who decides to get his own bath opens up an almost limitless range of stoves. We decided to simplify the task of choosing and systematized the main requirements for such installations, trying to take into account all the significant points.

The furnace can be sustained in any overall dimensions, operate on different fuels and have the most diverse design, but first of all, 2 key requirements are imposed on it:

• optimal power for a particular steam room;
• installation in compliance with approved rules and regulations.

Power is the first thing you need to pay attention to when choosing a furnace. It is pointless to give any specific universal figures - it is basically impossible. The main thing is that this indicator be optimal for a particular case.

Already at this stage, many developers make a big mistake by purchasing a furnace unit with a large power reserve, hoping that this will reduce the time spent on heating the steam room. Yes, the room will heat up faster, but then the oven will switch to the minimum operating mode. There is only one result - the air will be hot, the stones will be cold. It is pointless to pour water on insufficiently heated stones - steam under such conditions either does not form at all, or will go in clubs, like from a kettle. And in the bath, as you know, the steam must be transparent and light, otherwise it will become extremely unpleasant or simply impossible to be in the steam room.

Kamenka in the bath - photo

The other extreme is also a mistake - the installation of a low-power unit in order to simply reduce the total cost of arranging a steam room. Even if a stove with low power heats up the room to the required level, it will have to “work hard” to the maximum for this. What do you think happens to a system that is constantly working for wear and tear? That's right, it breaks very quickly.

Important note! It is possible to ignore such an indicator as the power of the heat source only in the case of the construction of a hammam (), in which there is no oven in its classical sense. But we are talking specifically about the bath, so we are considering units designed for operation in its conditions.

• power, usually measured in kW;
• the volume of the steam room, which can qualitatively serve the furnace of the declared capacity.

To save ourselves from complicated long-term calculations, let's go in the simplest way: determine the volume of the steam room and, starting from it, set the required power.

First step. We calculate the volume of the steam room. To do this, we need to measure its length, width, and height. After we multiply the obtained numbers, thus finding the volume indicator. If the project documentation has been preserved, we turn to it and save ourselves from this stage of calculation. Let's say the length of our steam room is 2 m, the width is 1.5 m, and the height is 2.2 m. The volume of this room will be 6.6 m3.

Second step. Carefully inspect the walls and ceiling. Here we need to determine whether they have non-insulated areas, for example, masonry, tiled lining, double-glazed windows, etc. We consider the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach such section (multiply the length and width). We summarize the obtained values. For example, we have a window measuring 60x60 cm and a tiled lining 100x100 cm. The calculation is as follows:

(0.6x0.6) + (1x1) = 1.36 m2.

We multiply the resulting number by a factor of 1.2 - this gives us a new value equal to 1.632. We add to the volume of the steam room and get 8.232.

Third step. If the door to the steam room is made of glass, increase the final number from the previous step by 1.5. The result is 9.732.

If there is a glass door, we increase the design coefficient

Thus, the stove should be designed for heating 9.732 m3. Here is a very important note: in the accompanying instructions for the furnaces, working volumes are indicated in intervals, for example, 4-9 m3. In our example, it is reasonable to purchase a stove with some margin, for example, a 7-12 m3 unit will work well, while a 5-10 m3 stove resource will not be enough.

When determining the required optimal power in kW, it is customary to adhere to the pattern, according to which 1 kW of power is consumed per 1 m3 of space.

Important! In order for the heater to successfully cope with the maintenance of the space declared by the manufacturer, load it with exactly the number of stones recommended in the accompanying instructions.

Additional selection criteria

Having determined the required indicators of power and displacement, we can give ourselves a "roam" in relation to the accompanying selection criteria.

Production material

Most often, furnaces are made from such materials: cast iron, steel, brick. The service life of the structure directly depends on their quality.

The most durable are currently considered modern stoves made of chromium steel. Such installations produce "clean air", which eliminates the risk of burning oxygen in the room. The best steel stoves are produced by Finnish companies Helo and Harvia.

To meet a sauna stove with a cast-iron firebox today is a curiosity, although this material, in principle, is very good. Among factory furnaces with a cast-iron firebox, one can only pay attention to the Sudarushka M model produced by the domestic company Inzhkomtsentr.

Brick stoves are a tribute to history and reverence for ancestors. If you find a good stove-maker, you will be satisfied for many decades to come. But such units also have their drawbacks:

• comparative complexity of kindling with many nuances;
• relatively long warm-up;
• the need for an individual powerful foundation, which leads to a significant increase in total costs.

Features of the location of the firebox

Two types of furnaces are available for sale:

• extended for wall mounting;
• ordinary.

The first ones allow you to organize the furnace of the stove from the room adjacent to the steam room, due to which the fire safety indicators and the overall microclimate increase, but such models are more expensive.

Steam source

In a traditional Russian bath, the steam should be dry and light. However, not every modern furnace is capable of producing just such steam. For maximum comfort, it is wise to buy a separate electric steam generator - this way it will be possible to solve all the problems associated with this moment.

Steam generator for a bath - wiring diagram

Video - Steam generators for baths and saunas

Design requirements

A good oven should be able to:

• warm the air to 40-50 degrees at the bottom of the room with a gradual increase to 80 degrees under the ceiling;
• relatively quickly heat the stones and maintain their temperature at the required level;
• exclude the possibility of penetration of smoke and carbon monoxide into the steam room.

Additional requirements are at the discretion of the owner. For example, it may be important for someone that the stove can not only heat the room, but also prepare hot water.

Video - Hot water in the bath, water heater + piping

Heater type

Most private stoves are equipped with open or closed heaters.

Duration of work on one tab of fuel

Ideally, if the furnace will give heat for the maximum possible time without the need to add a new portion of fuel. This criterion is determined by the user individually.

Sauna furnace firebox - photo

There is little choice here.

The oven can be:

• hot. Heat is given off through the outer walls of the furnace, heated to 100 degrees or more. A very good option for a private steam room. But there are also disadvantages: it is difficult to regulate the heating temperature and you can get burned. To eliminate unpleasant consequences, the heating parts of the stove must be carefully isolated, for example, using a brick screen;
• cold. The walls of such a unit will not heat up more than 40-45 degrees. Direct heating is carried out by means of circulation channels. Such furnaces are safer and more convenient to operate.

Type of fuel used

Type of fuel used	Description
	The most traditional and popular option. Guarantees uniform and fast heating of the room with the creation of the most favorable microclimate. Wood stoves can be fired "on black" and "on white". In the first case, the chimney is usually not made - the cinder is removed through an outlet in the wall or ceiling, or simply through an open door. The firebox "in black" is almost never found today - it is not aesthetically pleasing and difficult. The stove "on white" is a traditional version of a modern wood-burning stove. Be sure to include a chimney. Among the shortcomings can only be attributed to the need to monitor the combustion process and periodically replenish the fuel.
	Good, safe and modern option. Electric heaters provide fast warming up of the steam room, while the user gets the opportunity to control the temperature and humidity conditions in the room as accurately as possible. In order for the oven to work correctly and reliably, a stable supply of electricity must be present at the place of its installation. The main disadvantage is a rather significant cost of electricity, the cost of which in many regions is high.
	If preference is given to this type of fuel, there can be no talk of any amateur performance - only high-quality factory-made certified units installed by qualified craftsmen. The gas furnace is very convenient in operation, it can be automated. Along with this, it is recommended to consider this option only for residents of those regions where low gas tariffs are set, and there is no possibility of regular replenishment of firewood supplies. Under other circumstances, the heating costs will be more significant compared to the costs of operating a traditional solid fuel stove.

In general, the knowledge gained is already enough to choose a good stove for a bath. The only thing we would like to dwell on in more detail is the issue of choosing a furnace unit in accordance with the type of fuel used for its operation.

Features of choosing a wood stove

Traditional wood-burning stoves have a fairly simple design, the list of main elements of which includes: an ash pan, a firebox, flues, a heater and a chimney. Additionally, the composition includes related elements that increase the functionality, safety and ease of use of the furnace.

For example, the oven can be equipped with a tank for heating water. It is very convenient if it is placed on the chimney - the heat of the exhaust gases will not only fly away through the pipe, but will heat the water in the tank. The space of the steam room is heated by stones and walls of the furnace body.

The order of laying firewood may vary depending on the features of a particular model. There are few options.

1. Internal bookmark. Fuel is loaded into the stove directly in the steam room.
2. Outdoor bookmark. Fuel loading is carried out from adjacent rooms.

Existing varieties of wood-burning stoves can be classified according to several main indicators. About them further.

Design features

Wood stoves can vary significantly in terms of their design features. The classification is given in the table.

Table. Structural variations of wood-burning sauna stoves

Varieties	Description
	Stones are placed exclusively on top. The fire chamber is completed with either glass, or an ordinary deaf metal door.
	A feature of the furnaces of this category is that the casing in them has the form of a grid assembled from metal rods.
	Such furnaces are equipped with a special container. The user can pour water into it for the purpose of further use to create steam.
	It does not need a separate introduction - the design is completed with a container for preparing hot water.

Principle of operation

In accordance with the features of functioning, wood-burning sauna stoves can be classified into the following groups:

• long heating ovens. They work using a relatively small number of stones separated from the firebox with a metal sheet. Stones in most cases do not heat up more than 350 degrees. Professionals do not advise watering them with water - there is a high risk of soot particles being released into the surrounding air;
• batch heating furnaces. These aggregates are loaded with a large number of stones. The partition mentioned in the previous paragraph is missing - the stones are heated by the forces of an open flame. You can safely give water - soot will not be thrown out. The best option for a private steam room.

Manufacturer

A truly impressive range of sauna stoves is presented on the modern market - there are plenty to choose from. Yes, and instructions for self-laying / welding stoves allow you to make the unit on your own, saving money. What to do - everyone has the right to decide independently, focusing on the available budget and personal preferences.

We, based on the reviews of real users, can offer to pay attention to the products of the two industry leaders.

Firstly, these are Harvia ovens.

A huge range of models, a lot of stoves with different functionality and design - you can easily choose the option that fully meets your needs and expectations without any problems.

Harvia ovens – high quality and stylish design

The manufacturer offers both traditional floor units and designer wall and corner variations. Harvia products are characterized by very high quality, trouble-free operation and a long service life. For the manufacture of fireboxes of such stoves, modern high-strength steel is used, the thickness of the upper part of which is 1 cm or more, which is a guarantee of the highest strength of the heater and a long service life.

For the outer coating of the body of branded stoves, a patented fire-resistant paint is used, which retains its original quality characteristics at a high level for a long time. The assortment of the same manufacturer includes many additional elements that are ideally combined with branded ovens and contribute to a significant increase in their functionality.

Prices for Harvia wood stoves

Harvia wood burning stoves

Secondly, these are Helo solid fuel stoves.

The assortment of the company includes both budget options and luxury models for true connoisseurs. The best stainless steel is traditionally used for the manufacture of the outer walls of branded ovens.

The highlight of many models is a door with a heat-resistant glass insert - you can follow the combustion process, enjoying the view of the flame, which creates a wonderful relaxing atmosphere. For the furnace of most stoves of this brand, not only firewood, but also peat briquettes are suitable. You can choose a stove with a water tank installed either above the stove or using remote technology.

In more detail, as well as solid fuel bath stoves have already been discussed in the relevant publications of our website.

Features of choosing an electric furnace

Electric heaters - photo

Advantages of electric heaters

Electric sauna stoves have many advantages.

1. Firstly, they are compact - an average electric heater under any circumstances will take up less usable area than a gas and, especially, a solid fuel unit.
2. Secondly, they are very convenient to use. As noted, the user has access not only to the ability to control temperature and humidity indicators, but also to organize full-fledged automation.
3. Thirdly, they do not involve the arrangement of the chimney. In view of this, the direct installation of the furnace will require much more modest financial investments compared to other possible types of units.
4. Fourthly, in a steam room with an electric stove it will always be clean: you can forget about ash, smoke and dust.
5. Fifthly, modern electric heaters from trusted manufacturers last longer when compared with simple solid fuel devices of a similar price category.
6. Sixth, the electric stove is extremely easy to operate. The user only needs to turn on the device and wait a bit.

And there are no significant restrictions regarding the choice of the installation location of the furnace - it can be placed even near the wall, even in the center of the room.

Electric sauna heaters also win with regard to safety issues: a well-thought-out and well-organized cyclical operation, the presence of sensitive automation and protective shutdown devices make it possible to minimize the likelihood of various kinds of troubles inherent in devices operating on the principle of fuel combustion.

For maximum ease of use, many models of electric bath stoves are equipped with built-in or, even better, remote controls.

It takes relatively little time to warm up the steam room with an electric heater, and the resulting heat is characterized by softness and uniformity.

Prices for different models of electric heaters

electric heater

Main selection criteria

The main parameters to be taken into account when choosing an electric sauna stove are listed below.

1. The volume of the serviced premises and the required power of the system. Recommendations for calculating this moment were considered earlier.
2. Elements of control and regulation. As noted, the remote control of the electric furnace can be built-in or remote. Here everyone must decide for himself what is more convenient for him.
3. Heater characteristics. One of the most important points. Modern sauna electric heaters are equipped with heating elements, tape and combined heating devices.
   A heating element (tubular) can be heated to very high temperatures, but it serves relatively little. If you decide to buy a stove with a heating element heater, make sure that it is made of stainless steel.

   

   Tape devices are characterized by higher heating rates, environmental friendliness and economy, while they do not burn air as much as heating elements "brothers", and they last much longer.

   

   Combined options combine the heaters of the two mentioned types. For the price they are the most expensive, but they provide the fastest indicators of the speed and temperature of heating the serviced premises.

4. Design. Electric ovens can have a wide variety of sizes, shapes and design features. With regard to these points, the decision remains with the buyer.
5. External material. The stove can be either dressed in a beautiful metal case or decorated with natural stone, for example, soapstone or soapstone.

   

   

   

   The use of lining not only improves the external qualities of the stove, but also has important practical functions, namely: it increases the protection of the user from the effects of IF radiation, promotes heat accumulation, eliminates convection temperature fluctuations, ensures the creation of an ideal uniform thermal background, and has a positive effect on the human body.

Important! When planning to purchase an electric sauna stove, ask the seller to show a certificate of compliance with the requirements for such systems and fire safety parameters. In the absence of such, it is strongly recommended to refrain from buying a stove.

In more detail, the nuances of choosing an electric furnace for a bath and recommendations for its installation were in the corresponding publication of our website.

Features of choosing a gas furnace

Gas sauna stoves are becoming more and more popular - the desire for maximum convenience prevails over the love for the aroma and smell of burning wood.

Gas-burning units have a number of advantages, including:

• profitability;
• high rate of heating of the room;
• no need to monitor the remaining amount of fuel and its addition.

Along with this, before giving preference to a gas unit, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of rules and features of its installation and subsequent operation.

Advantages and design features

A traditional wood-fired sauna stove is excellent in every way - that's why it's traditional. But what if the extraction of firewood is more difficult? Use gas!

In the photo - a gas oven with a remote temperature controller

Such a solution has many advantages.

1. Compact installation. The gas stove, unlike its wood-burning "brother", does not have a large firebox and a massive ash pan - here they are very compact, which makes it possible to install this kind of equipment even in the cramped steam rooms.
2. Optimal temperature. Gas stoves are extremely easy to operate - you set the desired mode and enjoy your vacation, forgetting about going for new portions of firewood and cleaning unburned coals.
3. Features of the internal device. The classic structure of a gas sauna stove is as follows: there is a body, it contains a gas burner, a fuel source is connected to the burner. Additionally, a water tank may be present. Above is a pallet for laying stones. In the same area there is a device responsible for the removal of combustion products.

Separately, it is worth stopping at the stones. In combination with a gas stove, it is best to use round cobblestones mined from the sea or river bottom. Due to the peculiarities of their origin, they are best suited for use in extreme conditions of the steam room.

In addition to the above elements, the design of each gas bath oven necessarily includes a thermostat to control the temperature and a fuse that cuts off the fuel supply in the event of a sudden extinction of the flame.

Among the people, gas stoves are jokingly and, at the same time, cautiously called "bombs". The problem is that many people, again, in their desire to save money, go too far and either buy non-certified equipment or assemble it on their own, without having the appropriate skills and qualifications. As a result - burns or, much worse, fires and explosions.

Video - Gas burner for a carob-type brick sauna stove

In practice, many buyers managed to personally get acquainted with all the advantages of gas sauna stoves. You, too, can join their number if you follow the relevant rules for the selection, subsequent installation and operation of such equipment.

First, pay attention to the gas burner. Each burner is designed for a specific gas flow rate. In accordance with this indicator, such important characteristics as the power of the stove and its efficiency are determined. Regarding the choice of a burner for a specific area, the seller will advise you - these points may vary depending on the design features of the equipment, the characteristics of the steam room and other related points.

Secondly, the oven must have appropriate quality and safety certificates. In the absence of such, leave the dubious seller, even if he offers you a significant discount and will do his best to convince you that the equipment is safe.

Of course, the furnace as a whole and any of its components in particular must not have any external defects in the form of damage, cracks, leaks, etc. In addition, even the most impeccable gas stove must undergo a regular routine inspection. It is strictly forbidden to neglect this - the safety and lives of bath users are at stake.

A few words about gas-wood stoves

The assortment of many manufacturers includes gas-wood stoves - this is a modern universal solution that can work using different types of fuel: firewood, as well as liquid hydrocarbon gas and its natural variety.

This became possible due to the simultaneous presence of devices for burning solid fuels and special gas burner equipment. Additionally, a fuel receiver is included in the design - without it, the use of firewood as fuel would be impossible.

The big advantage of gas-wood stoves is their relatively low cost with wide functional and operational capabilities.

Requirements for the installation of gas sauna stoves

Important! Installation of such equipment should only be carried out by a qualified technician. By doing the installation on your own, you are at great risk. Along with this, you should remember a few important recommendations - knowledge of these will allow you to monitor the correct performance of the work by the installer.

1. A minimum distance of 50 cm must be maintained between the oven and the nearest walls. Combustible surfaces must be covered with non-combustible materials.

   

   The layout of the furnace - one of the possible options

2. The furnace is mounted on a refractory base of such dimensions that it protrudes at least 100 mm from each side of the furnace.

   

3. The requirements regarding the dimensions of the opening for the gas burner must be met - they are specified in the instructions for the specific unit.
4. Stainless pipes should be used to connect the gas sauna stove to the chimney. The structure is composite. The pipe is pushed into the pipe by at least 50% of its diameter.

   

5. Doors leading out of the steam room should open outwards.
6. The height of the flue pipe is calculated so that it rises at least 500 cm above the burner. In relation to the roof, the traditional half-meter elevation (minimum) is maintained.

   

7. The junction of the gas sauna stove with the chimney must be perfectly sealed.

   

All the details for the bath were studied earlier in the corresponding publication of our site.

Now you have all the necessary information regarding the existing varieties of sauna stoves and the features of their functioning. Good luck choosing!

Video - How to choose a stove for a bath

Probably, if any owner of individual suburban housing does not yet have his own bathhouse on the site, then most likely he is hatching plans for its construction and equipment. The bathing tradition in Russia is very ancient and enduring, and no modern devices and fixtures in the form of bathtubs, jacuzzis, “fancy” showers, electric heaters or steam generators can replace the real heat from a heated stove and a birch broom.

The stove is one of the most important attributes of a Russian bath or a real sauna. The required atmosphere and the required temperature both in the steam room and in the washing room directly depend on its effective operation. Currently, there are many models on sale that are specially designed for such conditions. However, many home craftsmen prefer to make a sauna stove with their own hands. Although this matter is quite complicated and requires good skills in construction or welding, it is still quite feasible.

Types of sauna stoves

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the main existing varieties of bath stoves so that you can opt for one of them.

1. By material manufacturing

• For a long time, burnt bricks have been the main material for sauna stoves. This tradition has not become a thing of the past even today - many people prefer the brick oven to all others, although, of course, its construction is much more difficult than installing a ready-made one. But on the other hand, the heat in it remains much longer, and it creates a very special atmosphere in the bath.

With its construction, certain difficulties may arise. So, for a brick structure, a foundation is required that is not connected with the foundation of the bath itself. In addition, the dimensions of the building itself do not always allow placing such a furnace in it, although, of course, there are projects of very small masonry.

Another difficulty is that the construction of such a furnace requires a certain amount of experience so that it does not become a source of a potential threat to human life and health. Often the desire to have a stone stove makes the owners of the bath turn to the masters. However, you can try to fold it yourself.

• Metal bath stoves are very popular. Although they are some departure from tradition, they have a number of advantages:

- Its installation does not take a long time and does not require a lot of space.

- There are a lot of ready-made models on sale, so it is possible to choose the most optimal option for a specific bath.

- It is easier to make such a furnace on your own if you have experience with electric welding.

- For the manufacture of a metal furnace, even seemingly recycled materials are often used - pipe cuttings, old disks from trucks, obsolete gas cylinders, old barrels, etc.

In the bath, as a rule, only steel stoves are installed - cast iron is unacceptable in these conditions. Yes, it has a higher heat capacity and holds the desired temperature longer, but its fragility and instability to sudden thermal changes make it impossible, for example, to splash cold water on a hot stove - cracks may appear.

Additional information about stoves from the site:

The main disadvantage of steel stoves is their rather quick cooling after the end of the furnace, especially if an insufficiently thick metal sheet was used for manufacturing. However, a massive heater can hold heat for quite a long time.

• To reconcile supporters of brick and steel sauna stoves can be the technology of lining a metal case with a brick.

In this case, a massive foundation is not required, the tightness of the masonry joints is also, that is, the process of building walls is quite simple.

Combined option - a metal stove lined with bricks

In addition to good heat accumulation, brick cladding will protect against direct exposure to hard infrared radiation from hot metal surfaces. And yet - it can be a good interior addition to the bath, hiding the often not very pretty look of a steel stove.

2. According to the energy carrier used

The vast majority of sauna stoves are designed to fire them. There are, of course, models with the use of gas and electricity. Some craftsmen adapt liquid fuel units (for example, diesel fuel) for this purpose, taking the furnace part with the diesel fuel supply system outside.

However, we can emphasize this again, no other energy sources, except for natural, well-dried firewood, will create in the steam room that health-improving microclimate, for which, in principle, the bath is most often built.

3. According to the location of the firebox

Both brick and metal bath stoves can have different layouts:

In one version, the entire furnace is located in the steam room, that is, it has to be fired directly from here. This design is certainly cheaper, much easier to manufacture and install, but there are a number of serious drawbacks. So, for example, you can’t create a supply of firewood in a steam room - they simply become saturated with moisture. Thus, if necessary, to maintain the fire, you will have to run out after them to another room or to the street. In addition, a steam room is usually not such a voluminous room, and therefore there is a high risk of getting an accidental burn from touching a red-hot furnace door.

From the point of view of convenience and safety of use, stoves win, in which the door of the combustion chamber is placed in the dressing room, and in the steam room itself there is a heater and, possibly, a tank for heating water. In such a stove, you can keep the fire going without disturbing anyone, and the overall level of safety increases in the steam room.

4. According to the method of heating the heater

Finally, sauna stoves differ in the way the stones are heated.

• Currently, constant heating stoves are most often used. In their design, the stones do not have direct contact with the outgoing combustion products - they are placed either in a metal container welded to the stove body, or in special lattice bodies located on the walls or even on the chimney. This arrangement of the furnace is more characteristic of the Finnish sauna. The heating temperature of the stones reaches 300 - 400 degrees. Usually, stones of a fairly small fraction are used, like coarse gravel. They are not covered with soot, as they are isolated from combustion products.

The convenience of such a stove is that the process of heating and, directly, taking bath procedures are not separated in time - you can maintain the fire and, accordingly, the temperature in the steam room for as long as necessary.

• Bath furnaces of periodic heating are arranged somewhat differently. Their design implies the removal of hot gases directly through the heater, with their subsequent exit into the chimney. At the same time, stones are heated to extremely high temperatures - up to 1000 degrees. However, after heating the stove, they must wait for the fuel to completely burn out and carbon monoxide to escape - only after that you can proceed to washing. In order not to cool quickly and not give off heavy wet steam, it is usually covered with either a lid or a hinged door.

According to this scheme usually formed classical Russian bath stoves - a heated bath was enough for all family members. When water hits such strongly heated stones, it instantly turns into steam. The main condition is that they must be massive, carefully selected, rounded, of a pronounced dark gray color, and their total mass must be at least 50 kilograms. From time to time, the heater is taken apart to clean the stones from the accumulated soot and replace the collapsed ones.

Schemes of such simple periodic ovens will be discussed below.

• It should be noted that there are models of stoves that combine the advantages of both devices. In them, the heater is divided into two areas - unventilated, placed in a special channel through which the combustion products pass, and open.

In such a furnace, there are two heaters - an external ventilated and an internal one, which receives heat from combustion products.

Such stoves are quite complex in design, but they perfectly accumulate heat and give dry steam, and, if necessary, firewood can be thrown right in the process of washing.

The stove is the heart of the bath. In the absence of the proper skills, it is not easy to make it yourself. Think about what is more important: savings, most often imaginary, or the feeling of comfort that accompanies you during the arrangement of the bath and its use.

Those who prefer effective solutions should pay attention to the options for ready-made sauna stoves. Among them you will find devices that meet all the listed quality criteria, and at the same time have an affordable price.

Thus, among the leaders of the furnace market, heating installations from the Dobrostal Plant company, the winner of the competition “100 Best Goods of Russia”, can be singled out. In the assortment offered by her, such concise models of furnaces as:

• "Heat-Extra 400";
• "Heat-Lux 20".

The body material of the devices is carbon steel, one of the strongest and most heat-resistant materials. The ergonomic design of these wood-burning stoves allows them to be used not only as a heating unit, but also as a good interior solution.

The Zhara-Extra 400 model is designed for heating a steam room from 4 to 12 m 3 in size. The thickness of the roof and the weight of the furnace can also vary, based on your requirements.

Furnaces of the Zhara Lux series offer a wider range of models, with the ability to choose a device for heating a steam room area from 4 to 30 m 3.

The structures under consideration are equipped with a chimney-coil, which allows:

• make traction more uniform;
• save fuel.

By the way, the chimney can be disassembled for cleaning at any time.

The device package includes:

• grate;
• decorative elements;
• cast iron door
• closed heater with funnel for water supply;
• scoop;
• detailed installation guide.

Furnaces of the "Heat" series are able to satisfy the needs of an avid lover of a steam room, however, if the bath is not a hobby for you, but a real passion, we advise you to pay attention to the August Profi model, equipped with a panoramic glass door. The incomparable comfort of using this device will turn all parts of the bathing procedure into a pleasure.

The model in question is equipped with:

• closed-type heater;
• steam generation system.

Using the built-in system, you will be able to choose the “mode” for your steam room yourself:

• traditional Russian bathhouse;
• Finnish sauna for real Vikings;
• hammam for lovers of oriental pleasures.

The establishment of convection in the "Augusta Profi" is carried out by adjusting special dampers.

The desired model can also be purchased in simplified model variations "Standard", "Stone", however, it is the "Profi" version that is the most refined, powerful and multifunctional.

The listed designs represent only a small fraction of the Dobrostal Plant model range. We advise you to study it, and find the perfect heart for your steam room.

Prices for fireplaces and stoves

Fireplaces and stoves

How to make a metal stove for a bath yourself

There are countless options for metal bath stoves, and, by and large, anyone can come up with their own, relying on some basic models. As an example, we can cite several very simple stoves, the manufacture of which does not require any special knowledge and skills.

Periodic heating stove for a small family steam room

This is probably one h the simplest options. To make such a furnace, you need a metal sheet with a thickness of about 5 mm (steel St 3). In this case, it makes no sense to make a stove from a thinner sheet - it will burn out very quickly, and it will not retain heat efficiently.

• The dimensions of the stove are small - only 900 mm long, 800 - height with legs, and width along the front - 600 mm. It can be placed even in a very small steam room.
• For the chimney pipe, you will need a piece of pipe with a diameter of 115 mm. Its length can be different - some prefer a short pipe with a flange for connecting the chimney, others weld a long enough length on which you can put a hot water tank.
• In order for all seams to be durable, it is better to make them on a metal corner with a shelf of 30 × 30 × 3 mm. The same profile will also be needed for shelves and brackets for internal lattice partitions.
• In height, the space of the stove is divided into three unequal compartments. The lower, narrowest one is an ash pan (1) with a blower door. The size of this door is usually small, 2-2.5 times smaller than the furnace opening.
• Between the ash pan and the firebox (3), cast-iron grates are installed on brackets from the corner.

• If they could not be found, then you will have to weld a lattice of parallel bars with a diameter of at least 10 — 12 mm. The distance between the bars is kept the same - about 10 mm.
• The upper compartment is a heater through which combustion products are removed during heating of the stove (5). Gases pass freely through the grate (4), heat the stones and are discharged into the chimney (6).
• The doors of the combustion chamber and the blower-ashpit are broadcast on welded hinges and are necessarily equipped with latch valves.
• The rear part of the heater is welded by one third with a metal sheet (300 × 600 mm), in the center of which a hole is cut, where the chimney pipe is welded, which goes down by 100 - 120 mm.
• The diagram does not show the lid that is used to cover the heater during the heating of the sauna stove. It is easy to make it from thin metal (0.8 - 1.0 mm) in such a way that it completely covers the heater and slightly lies down on the body walls. This cover will not allow the stones to cool quickly, and in process the pre-heater of the bath will prevent the direct exit of combustion products into the room, directing them into the chimney pipe. Of course, good traction must be provided for this.

Immediately before the start of bath procedures, this cover is removed and the heater remains in the open position. However, sometimes they also provide a hinged hatch, which is opened when it is necessary to give steam, and the lid is constantly in place, keeping the heat of the stones longer.

• When the stove is fully welded, a thorough cleaning and check of the seams, removal of burrs and metal irregularities is carried out. It is recommended to cover the outside of the structure with a heat-resistant varnish specially designed for fireplaces and stoves.

Stones are laid in the compartment intended for them later, after the stove is installed in place in the bath and connected to the chimney. This will be discussed a little later.

The heat from such a stove after heating it should be enough for a full-fledged bath procedure for 2 - 3 people.

Periodically heated metal stove with additional brick walls

Another version of the open type stove, which, however, is somewhat more difficult to manufacture, but its ability to accumulate heat is much higher.

“Double” technology is already being used here - a metal case and internal brickwork. In this case, steel is not needed too thick - sheets of 1.5 - 2.0 mm are enough. Heat-resistant fireclay bricks are used for masonry, and as a mortar, it is best to purchase a ready-made dry mortar specially designed for stoves and fireplaces, and knead it in accordance with the preparation instructions.

• To begin with, a base is being prepared with legs welded to it with heel pads so that the design of the furnace is stable.
• Then, on this basis, the first continuous row of bricks is laid out. All other rows are made in a "half-brick" in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe firebox, and in a "quarter" - in the area of ​​​​chimney channels.
• After the camera is laid out ash pan-blower(1), a cast-iron grate is installed between it and the firebox (2). To leave openings for the blower and the loading window during laying, it is fashionable to use jumpers from a metal corner 20 × 20, but only so as not to disturb the evenness of the inter-row seams.
• Above the combustion chamber, a grate of metal rods (Ø 12 mm) is installed, on which stones will subsequently be laid.
• On the left or right side of the masonry, at the level of the heater, a window (5) is left, which will serve to load the stones, for their regular inspection and cleaning, and in the process of bathing procedures - for steam generation - water from the ladle will splash into it.
• The sinuous chimney channel contributes to the most complete heating of the entire furnace structure and complete afterburning of all combustion products. In the back of this channel, at the level of turning it up, an inspection window is left, where a valve will then be mounted to maximize heat retention after the furnace has been fired.
• The upper two rows of bricks are made solid, only with a window for the exit of combustion products - in this place the chimney pipe will then be welded.
• When the brickwork is finished, and the mortar has set well enough, it is possible to sequentially weld the walls of the metal case to the base, which in this case plays the role of a kind of “case”. To facilitate this task, and at the same time to achieve tightness of the welds, a corner of 20 × 20 mm can be put on top of the joints.
• When marking the workpiece for the front wall, openings for the ash pan and the loading window of the combustion chamber are immediately outlined and cut out. After the front wall is in place, hinges are welded on which the doors of both chambers with locking devices are hung. The door leafs themselves should be 10–15 mm wider in each direction than the recessed windows in order to ensure tight closing. It would be useful to install an asbestos seal around the perimeter or even over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe inner surface of the firebox door.

• During the installation of the side wall, from the side of the steam window left in the masonry, a opening and a metal door with a seal is installed. It is better to make it fold down and equip it with a “cold” handle so that you can open it during washing to give steam.
• The stove cover is welded last with a pre-cut hole for the chimney pipe. Then a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded.
• The stove will be loaded with stones after it is installed in the bathhouse at the prepared place.

Constant heating stoves with an open heater

It is even easier to build such stoves from a metal sheet or other available materials.

The figure shows an easy-to-manufacture stove made from trimming a metal thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 325 mm.

The pipe cavity itself is divided into two compartments by a grate. The upper, main one, serves as a firebox, the lower one serves as an ashpit-blower. Both compartments have their own doors, respectively, for laying firewood and providing air supply and cleaning.

Closer to the far, completely muffled end of the pipe, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is welded.

A metal box is welded on top of the cylindrical body, which will be filled with stones. In order to ensure maximum heating of the stones, it is possible to make the chimney in this area not straight, but with a curved elbow - the contact area of ​​the hot pipe with the heater will increase significantly.

It will not be difficult to make a similar stove in the form of a parallelepiped, using metal sheets as blanks.

Very often, these stoves are equipped with hot water tanks. In the photo of the stove from the pipe, it is placed on the back plug, which is also the wall of the water tank.

In the manufacture of rectangular structures, there are much more options - tanks are placed on either side, on top, or even make a semblance of a “water jacket” from several sides, with a tie-in of cold and hot water supply pipes.

Another convenient option for solving the issue of heating water can be the installation of a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe.

Such water heaters can be made independently, but it is also possible to purchase a finished factory product that has a ton of a certain standard diameter. All that remains is to embed this tank into the vertical part of the chimney above the stove and connect the water supply and withdrawal pipes.

Such tanks can themselves have sufficient volume, or serve only as a heat exchanger and be connected to the main water tank.

Video: an interesting simple design of a metal stove for a bath

Preparing the site for installing the stove

Making your own stove for a bath is only half the battle. It is necessary to carefully prepare a place for its installation directly in the room.

Even just a metal stove is a fairly massive structure, especially if you add to its own weight the weight of the stone laying and the weight of the filled hot water tank. Thus, it is necessary to prepare the base - a kind of podium on which it will be installed. It is best to provide your own foundation for it.

• To do this, a small pit (up to 500 mm deep) comes off in a selected place.
• A sand layer up to 100 mm is laid on the bottom, then, after tamping, another 200 mm gravel and crushed stone backfill.
• A layer of cut-off waterproofing is laid - usually roofing material is used for this.
• Then a concrete solution is poured to the ground level with a filling of sand and fine gravel.

• After this site has completely solidified (at least 3 weeks), a layer of roofing material is laid on top of it, and then a continuous laying of baked bricks is performed
• The masonry is carried out either to the level of the "clean" floor of the bath, or even a little, 100 - 150 mm higher, thus constructing a raised podium for installing the stove.

It is impossible to put the oven on a concrete base - for all the seeming solidity and strength, it will certainly begin to crack and crumble in conditions of high humidity and high temperatures.

From walls, especially wooden ones, the stove should be located at a distance of at least 200 mm. The walls must be sheathed with heat-resistant material - stainless steel sheet or "Isover" - foil thermal insulator based on harmless basalt mineral wool.

Izover is an excellent material for thermal insulation of bath walls at the installation site of the stove.

Very often, metal stoves are “dressed” in brickwork. This gives a number of advantages - there is less risk of getting burned on hot walls, plus brickwork will be another fairly capacious heat accumulator.

You can learn more about this process from. Here are just a few important notes:

• The distance from metal walls to brickwork is recommended to be kept at 100 mm. This is necessary for normal air circulation - a powerful convection flow will be created, contributing to uniform and rapid heating of the steam room. For the same purpose, special windows must be provided below the masonry. The metal walls of the stove, lined with bricks on the outside without a gap, close, due to a violation of normal heat transfer, will burn out very quickly.

• For masonry, only natural clay oven mortar or special building mixtures intended specifically for such purposes, with pronounced moisture and moisture properties, can be used. thermal stability.
• The brick lining of the stove must be thought out in advance - this is taken into account when pouring the foundation and laying out the brick podium.

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Stone laying

The efficiency of a home-made bath stove will also largely depend on the stones - the correctness of their selection and laying out in the heater.

Even a small stove requires no less than a 50-kilogram stack, but it’s still better to focus on 80 for a family bath. — 100 kg.

It is better to choose cobblestones with a rounded shape, even gray color, without surface flaws (cracks or breaks). It is desirable that the stones be of various sizes - from 50 to 150 mm.

Granite for sauna stove absolutely useless. Firstly, its structure is unstable to frequent processes of strong heating with simultaneous exposure to steam - destruction will begin very quickly. Secondly, granite always contains mica inclusions, and when heated, they are capable of emitting quite toxic fumes.

Jadeite is one of the best options for a heater. In addition to its natural beauty, it is also credited with medicinal properties.

The best materials, in addition to the usual natural cobblestone, are talc chloride, basalt or jadeite. Such stones of various sizes can be purchased at specialized stores.

It is very important to lay the stones correctly. The layout begins in such a way that the largest, most massive of them are at the bottom. They will not prevent the passage of heat to those located above and will create a powerful supply of heat. Then stones of medium size are laid out, and only at the very top - small in size.

This order will provide the upper layer of stones with heating to a temperature of 300 - 400 º - exactly what is needed for dry steam. When water hits well-heated stones, evaporation occurs literally instantly and is accompanied by a characteristic crack.

If the stones are flattened, then when laying them, their spatial orientation must also be taken into account. With their long side, they should be located along the main heat flow, otherwise a kind of “locking” will occur when the lower stones overheat and the upper ones do not reach the required temperature regime.

Neglecting the rules for laying stones will drastically reduce the overall healing effect of the bath. The steam will begin to “get heavier” very quickly, and although, perhaps, the overall temperature in the steam room will not decrease significantly, staying in it will do more harm than good - there is simply nothing to breathe in a waterlogged room.

Video: how to properly lay stones in a sauna stove

Prices for various types of stones for furnaces

Stones for stoves

So, a do-it-yourself sauna stove is a completely feasible task, if all technological nuances are taken into account during manufacture, and the established safety requirements are observed during installation. But a self-made stove will not only help save a fairly significant amount, but will also become the pride of the owner when it becomes possible to invite his friends to the bath.

Despite the fact that we ourselves do not consider it a good option for creating the conditions of a real “Russian bath”, it is this type of stove that most owners of private country baths can afford. And not all owners are fans of traditional conditions, so they are quite satisfied with everything that is in the gap between real Russian and real Finnish baths.

Based on this, we decided to see what is on the market for suitable stoves today and together with you to make adequate rating, which will help other readers decide on the choice of a stove for a Russian bath in the sense in which it is understood by the majority (pro).

Video version of the article

For those who find it easier to listen and watch than to read, we offer a video. You can also just keep reading.

Which sauna stove to choose, which one is better?

To begin with, it would be worth getting acquainted with the conditions that the stove we need should create. But you can read about this in to get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthat what means do you have to create the right microclimate.

However, here we proceed from the fact that when asking the question: “Which stove is better for a Russian bath?”, You still inclined to purchase metal. And after reading that article, you know that you will need a stove:

• Maybe, direct heating;
• (or );
• manufactured or chrome become.

These are, in short, parameters of the best stoves for a Russian bath. Imperfect metal can ennoble brick casing and smart ventilation system, allowing for the time being completely stop all convection flows in the steam room.

Let's take a closer look at the options that can be purchased today on the Russian market. We have selected stoves for the Russian bath with a closed heater, because they are responsible for the correct steam. Some of the models are intended by the creators themselves to be lined with brick or natural stone, others have a cylindrical shape, which, however, is also suitable for facing with brick, and this is important, because without it we will not get controlled convection.

Choice of popular models

"Anapa"

The company is improving its products: if many people used to have a welded heat exchanger fall off, now it is not welded at all - it is kept “leaning”. Pro .

"Angara 2012", "Taimyr"

Stoves of the company Termofor».

The device of the furnace Angara-2012. A photo

"Angara 2012" (Inox and Carbon - stainless steel and structural steel) has two heaters - open and closed. The closed one gives finely dispersed steam, the broom is steamed on the open one. Furnace material - high-temperature low-alloy steel with a chromium content of 16%. The heat exchanger inside the furnace quickly heats up the water. The company guarantees the integrity of all welds and joints for 3 years. The volume of the steam room for which "" is designed is 8-18 cubic meters.

The device of the Taimyr 2017 furnace. Photo

"Vesuvius Russian steam"

The device of the Vesuvius furnace Russian steam. A photo

Main advantage – durability. It is also worth mentioning the high efficiency - 87%.

Zhikhorka and Cinderella

Furnace Kalita Russian steam. A photo

The device of the furnace Kuban-20 L. Photo

"Kuban" - stainless steel oven (13-17% chromium), designed for 10-20 cubic meters of steam room. Closed heater holds up to 40 kg of stones, water enters it through the dispenser. At the top there is an open fireplace. The firebox is made in such a way that the metal leash is excluded.

"Laguna" - the removable door of the closed heater is directed upwards, the heater itself is included in the smoke removal system, which heats the stones up to 600 degrees. Water is supplied by a steam gun. An exclusive feature is the sight glass to the combustion chamber, located in the steam room, while the firebox itself is located in an adjacent room. The disadvantages are that furnace material - structural steel, in varieties of "Laguna" its thickness is 5 mm more expensive.

Kutkin 1.0, 1.5, 2.0

All three furnaces are identical in design and are made of of stainless steel, trimmed with serpentine or other stone. Differences between ovens in size, weight and volume of rooms served:

Furnace Slavyanka Russian steam. A photo

The massive cast-iron furnace of the company "", suggesting brick lining. Power - 20 kW, steam room volume - from 8 to 16 cubic meters. The firebox is not made of cast iron, but of low alloy steel 10 mm thick. The weight of stones in a closed heater is 90 kg. The package includes a steam gun. Additionally, you can purchase heat exchangers for the tank and heating of adjacent premises, tanks, chimneys, etc. By the way, as for the Troika stove for the Russian bath, user reviews about it are mostly positive.

"Khangar", "Etna"

These are two series of stoves with a closed heater from the company "". For the average consumer, the “Light” and “Medium” categories are of interest, that is, stoves for family and guest baths.

Furnace Hangar series Average. A photo

Manufacturer - Finnish company Harvia(). The heater is closed type, located on top and has a hinged lid. It is assumed that when closed, it gives the regime of the Russian bath. The mass of loaded stones is 60 kg. The volume of the room is from 10 to 26 cubic meters. The manufacturer does not indicate the brand, but claims that the material - stainless steel,

More information

Well, we dare to hope that by joint efforts we will find objectively the best stoves for the Russian bath and help everyone who is still making a choice.

Where could I buy

It is possible to get acquainted with the assortment and make your own choice on the websites of suppliers, which are collected in the "" section.

In contact with

Sauna wood stove attracts attention with its compact, aesthetic appearance and inexpensive price.

Heating speed on the positive side characterizes the technological component of the design, and ease of maintenance allows you to keep the heater in good condition.

Which one to choose? Requirements for wood-fired sauna stoves

The construction of wood-burning bath products provides for:

• installation of the furnace and screens made of metal;
• presence around the structure chimney, isolated from heating;
• arrangement in the adjacent room furnaces consuming oxygen;
• access and air circulation;
• air circulation at lining the casing with bricks;
• furnace firewood predominantly hardwood;
• timely removal of combustion products;
• regular chimney cleaning from soot.

Important! Fire safety during the construction and operation of bath stoves, it requires strict adherence to established rules.

Criteria for choosing the most suitable stove for a bath

Depending on the features of the installed design will depend heating efficiency and quality premises. Wood-burning bath structures are built mainly brick, they rarely require cladding and have a well-balanced thermal output.

metal wood products can be purchased at specialized retail outlets. Industrial enterprises have mastered the production of these products and offer the consumer different models with technical specifications.

When buying an oven be guided by certain criteria, among which:

• power ratio designs to volume bath room ( for 1 cu. m - 1 kW power);
• thermal output steel or cast iron structure (air temperature at the bottom of the steam room should be 40-50 degrees);
• duration of burning of one bookmark firewood (determined by the consumer individually);
• Availability furnace tunnel providing unhindered air flow;
• presence in the furnace door heat resistant glass, through which the flame of fire can be seen.

Reference. The choice of heating design is significantly influenced by square steam room, and material properties and characteristics from which the stove is made.

Room area

The power of the heating structure must correspond to the area and volume of the steam room. During construction ovens takes into account:

• type, power and volume future heating device;
• location;
• volume designs together with lining;
• ceiling height in the premises.

Important! Often, consumers mistakenly believe that the power of the structure should be greater than necessary. Exceeding power ratings leads to temperature imbalance and reduce the effect from staying in the steam room.

High-quality and uniform heating is achieved only when it is found correct ratio power to the steam room area.

Furnace size

The power of any heating device directly depends on furnace dimensions. When building a wood-burning stove yourself, you should correctly calculate all the necessary parameters that will correspond to the size of the room.

Based on the total volume of the steam room, the power is calculated according to the scheme: 1 cu. m = 1 kW power. If power divide by a factor of 0.5, learn furnace volume in liters, a extracting from the amount received cube root — linear quantities wood firebox.

From the established dimensions, the parameters of the structure constructed from bricks will be determined. Standard size of one brick(long 250 , width 120 and height 65 mm) will allow you to calculate the dimensions of the heating installation. Wherein 5 mm is added to each seam.

Produced metal structures have fixed dimensions and specifications. Thus, the device is selected taking into account the volume of the steam room.

You will also be interested in:

materials

The manufacture of sauna stoves involves the construction of structures from the appropriate brands refractory heat-resistant brick or its production metal.

The brick structure is characterized by a long warm-up period, but retains and evenly distributes heat for a long time. The brick sauna stove is safe by accidental contact.

Metal structures heat up quickly and also cool down quickly. If handled carelessly, high the likelihood of getting burned.

To solve the problem of heat loss and safety, the owners of most bath rooms are trying impose metal constructions natural stones, artificial stone or brick.

Efficiency from cladding with these materials significantly increases, the design begins to save thermal energy and rationally spend it.

Description of the best stoves: how to make a personal rating

The choice of design largely depends from the goals, purpose and characteristics of the premises. A bathhouse and a sauna are completely different areas with opposite temperature conditions, dry or humid air, and the absence or presence of steam.

Interior decoration of such premises is different and provides for a special approach in the choice of heating devices.

For a wooden bath

Wooden baths are different increased fire hazard. Walls, ceiling - almost all elements of the steam room are made of wood. In wooden rooms, stoves are built mostly brick. Purchased in a distribution network, metal structures are lined with natural stones, bricks or artificial stone.

When choosing a heating device, the main attention is paid to structures with remote firebox, which, for security reasons, is taken to a room adjacent to the steam room.

Photo 1. A brick oven for a wooden bath with a remote firebox, you can lay firewood from the dressing room.

The choice of furnace depends on its manufacturing technology and is characterized by a volumetric firebox, as well as the presence of space for a certain number of stones above the heating structure.

Special attention when buying a design, pay on the chimney, which is made of metal and for safety purposes must be insulated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials.

Reference. The choice of furnace largely depends on criteria that take into account features and characteristics of the structure, as well as the existing finishing of the steam room.

For a traditional Russian bath

The Russian bath is distinguished by a heavy stove high power, which retains heat for a long time and gives wet steam. The requirements for choosing a design for a Russian bath are much higher and it can be difficult to choose a heating device to constantly maintain high air humidity.

To reach in the steam room 100% humidity air and temperature 50-70 degrees, the oven should be checked for compliance with the instructions.

Photo 2. A brick oven with a closed heater and a boiler for heating water is great for a Russian bath.

The design for the Russian bath is made in such a way that stones are located behind a permanently closed door inside the heater. Access to the stones is opened only when there is a need to throw water. This feature allows you to increase the heating of stones several times more than with their surface placement.

The choice of a stove for a Russian bath is also carried out according to a criterion that provides for the possibility heat water in a boiler.

Important! Unlike a sauna, a person staying in a steam room of a Russian bath is constantly on the move throwing water on the rocks. Rest comes after leaving the steam room. This fact also influences the choice of a suitable heating device.

For sauna

Saunas are characterized by dry hot air, temperature which reaches 120 degrees, a humidity does not exceed 25%.

In saunas, as well as in wooden baths, periodic overturning of water on stones is also provided. But the process of obtaining steam in the sauna is not the main one and the steam effect quickly disappears due to good ventilation of the room.

Photo 3. A compact metal stove with an open heater will provide the sauna with heat and dry steam.

The choice of heaters for a sauna is stopped at structures that, according to the features and characteristics of the room, can provide dry hot air.

Important! When choosing a stove for a sauna, attention is paid to little human activity resting in the steam room. Thanks to dry steam, perspiration is achieved naturally, after which the person calmly leaves the steam room.

The choice can fall on any wood-burning stove with an open stone arrangement. The design power is selected according to room size.

Useful video

A video that talks about some of the intricacies of choosing a stove for a bath: when to start planning the installation, how to heat it and what heating modes distinguish.

Safety measures: it is necessary to heat the stove with wood correctly!

Any oven where fuel is used to heat the room, considered a fire hazard. Basic Rules safe use of wood-burning sauna stoves:

• forbidden leave burning stove unattended; Odnoklassniki