How to lay out the corners of a brick plinth. Brick plinth on a strip foundation: plinth device and step-by-step do-it-yourself installation instructions. Video about laying bricks on a strip base

Official standards for a brick base existed exclusively in Tsarist Russia. At present, the construction of this structural element of the building is justified in the presence of an underground level (basement, technical underground or a whole floor), the need to level the foundation, use it as a decorative element of the facades, if the foundation is poured flush with the ground.

According to the terminology of the SNiP regulations of 1980, number I-2, the basement is the lower part of the wall, which can sink / protrude relative to its plane (usually ¼ of a brick) or be flush with it. To understand why a brick base is needed, it is necessary to take into account the options used to build the building technologies:

  • on a slab base, a plinth is necessary for the manufacture of a technical underground;
  • if a strip foundation is used (prefabricated from reinforced concrete blocks or monolithic), the horizontal level is leveled with masonry for laying floors;
  • when choosing the technology of a log house, a “framework”, a cottage made of SIP panels, a brick plinth is necessary for an even distribution of structural, operational loads on the base of the house;
  • the foundation is poured at the zero mark (ground level), the basement provides the necessary level of the floor of the first floor.

Depending on the type of construction, the base has both advantages and disadvantages:

  • protruding - decorates the facade, emphasizes the original architecture, but quickly collapses without cladding;
  • construction, when facing, the thickness is aligned with the walls;
  • flush - in fact, it is a continuation of the walls, when finishing it becomes protruding.

The choice of the design of this element is made during the design, depending on the preferences of the owner.

Technology for the manufacture of brick plinth

Having decided what a brick base is for, you can start building. For laying the foot of the building does not require high qualifications, special equipment.

Material selection

Experts do not recommend the use of silicate bricks, concrete blocks due to the maximum hygroscopicity of these materials. In addition to destruction from the moisture they absorb from the air, the earth, they transfer it to the walls or to the foundation. In addition, decorative plaster, which is most often finished with masonry, does not adhere well to their surface. the best choices are:

  • clinker is the most durable of existing analogues, has a high resource, does not require finishing, is absolutely waterproof, but too expensive, therefore it is rarely used;
  • clay - more often called ordinary, has a minimal aesthetics of perception, decoration is necessary, the material is chosen for frost resistance (M 150 - M 250 for 50 - 100 seasons, respectively), this is a budget brick that allows you to reduce the construction budget;
  • ceramics - average price, excellent decorative properties, there are full-bodied, hollow modifications;
  • porous - minimally loads the foundation structure, does not need cladding, is an improved analogue of ceramics, therefore it costs more, there are large-format modifications with non-standard sizes;
  • dry, semi-dry pressing - outwardly resembles ceramics, but is not fired, has less frost resistance, is inexpensive, masonry does not need lining;

Solid clay brick is the most suitable material for a plinth.

When choosing a brick other than the walls, the plinth by default becomes an independent design element of the facades.

What tools will be required

To build a brick base, you will need a standard trowel, level, mooring, plumb line, cord, pick. When using facing bricks, it is better to cut with an angle grinder (grinder) with a diamond blade or stone tooling. For the solution, you will need a bucket with a shovel or a bucket with a drill, a mixer. Professionals are able to get by with a piece of roofing material or a sheet of iron, it is better for a home master not to risk the quality of the batches.

For facing masonry, special devices are available to facilitate leveling pastels in each row. The only drawback of the Bricky fixture is its adaptation to foreign bricks, the dimensions of which are somewhat different from domestic counterparts.

Choice of plinth width

The brick plinth has a width depending on the type chosen (flush, protruding, protruding), wall thickness. For example, for masonry 51 cm, this value is in the range of 45-57 cm. There are options when the foot is wider than the foundation - in this case, the release of a brick on any side is limited to ¼ of its length (6 cm). If for the thickness of the walls a similar overlap of masonry of the first row along the base is not enough, the foundation will have to be added from the convenient side, increasing its width.

What height to make the base

Due to the lack of regulatory documentation for the construction of the foot of the house, the brick base can be of arbitrary height. Experts do not recommend building it above half of the first floor - this will violate the architecture of the building, the exterior of the facades.

Without a project, only garden houses can be built; in all other cases, the necessary marks for all structures are included in the documentation. Self-builders solve the problem of the height of the foot as follows:

  • if the foundation is poured at ground level, choose a masonry height of 0.7-1 m;
  • if a basement is needed for a technical underground, they are guided by the dimensions of the engineering systems (usually pumping equipment, valves) that should fit in it;
  • if the foot is necessary to complete the basement floor, choose a comfortable ceiling height in the lower level.

In the last two options, insulation is often placed in the basement design (if the brick is facing) or external insulation is performed, taking into account its thickness.

Foundation waterproofing

Unlike the outdoor soil, the ground under the house does not freeze in any frost. It contains moisture absorbed by concrete, transmitted to the upper structures. Therefore, the foundation is necessarily cut off from them with a waterproofing layer.

In order to waterproof the foundation with high quality, it is enough to lay two layers of roll material, a membrane or a film along its perimeter. The side surfaces of the concrete tape also need to be treated to protect against flood, ground, melt water. In this case, deep penetration primers that change the structure of the material are much more effective.

The upper waterproofing is overlapped at the joints, protrudes 2-3 cm beyond the perimeter, cut off at the end of the masonry.

markup

Before laying on the waterproofing layer, it does not hurt to check the diagonals, the compliance of the foundation dimensions with the design dimensions. To do this, the easiest way is to install pegs in the corners (0.5-0.7 m from the base of the dwelling), stretch the cords. This will allow you to measure the length of the walls, diagonals with an accuracy of 1 cm.

Ventilation products

The tape base will not be effective if ventilation holes are not left in it. When using bricks, they do not have to be made round; you can make small rectangular, square windows using sheet steel and reinforcement as lintels.

They should be on all walls, including internal partitions. It is impossible to close them for the winter with insulation, plugs - humidity is present in this space all year round. Therefore, it is more reasonable to lay decorative lattices in the masonry or provide for their sizes during construction.

Proportions for mortar

When laying bricks on a strip foundation, a plastic mortar is required. In the standard version, for the manufacture of different grades, different proportions of sand and cement are used, respectively:

  • M75 - 3/1
  • M50 - 4/1
  • M25 - 5/1

The base will be stronger if you use the first two options. At the same time, it is necessary to check the quality of sand using available methods:

  1. Squeeze a handful of non-metallic material in your hand with some effort;
  2. Loosen your grip to check the result;
  3. If the sand woke up on the ground completely, partially, there is a minimum amount of clay impurities in it, in the case of a lump formed (more than 2/3), there is too much clay in the sand for a normal solution.

Excess clay is dangerous due to the forces of frost heaving arising in it - in winter, the masonry may crack. The plasticity of the solution can be given with ordinary soap or detergents by adding a couple of Fairy caps when kneading.

Making corners

To increase the pace of stone work, the corners are usually laid out on a strip foundation along a plumb line / level, after which cords are pulled, the walls are periodically controlled by the rule. Laying corners traditionally requires a highly skilled craftsman or the use of orders. The main condition for the maximum resource of the base is the dressing of vertical, horizontal seams. Depending on the height of the base, an in-line or multi-row dressing can be used:

For laying one and a half bricks, it looks like

Scheme of a single-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 1.5 bricks.

For multi-row dressing, a different scheme is used

Scheme of multi-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 1.5 bricks

When choosing a base in two bricks, the design of the ligation of the corners changes as follows

Scheme of a single-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 2 bricks.

The number of pins here is higher than in the previous case. For multi-row dressing, the scheme is more complicated

Scheme of a multi-row dressing of the corners of a brick base of a strip foundation, a wall of 2 bricks.

Plinth decoration

At the final stage, the strip plinth made of ordinary brick must be lined. For this, facade plasters or special claddings are used:

  • basement siding - imitation of stone, brickwork;
  • stone - artificial, natural;
  • porcelain stoneware is a large-format material with high frost resistance.

Facing is usually done after the construction of the building box, roofing. Using the orders, recommendations of specialists, the home master will be able to avoid mistakes, get the maximum design resource, and ensure a reduction in the construction budget.

The basement occupies an intermediate position between the foundation and the walls. It must protect them from moisture and withstand the load of the entire structure, furniture and equipment installed in the building. Last year, my friend and I did the necessary earthworks, laid the foundation for the future home. Now, in his free time, he lays out a brick plinth on the foundation.

Bricks for laying the second row

Vadik, owner of the future cottage, economist. He is interested in all ways to reduce costs. When buying a site and designing, he decided to test his professional knowledge in practice. Having heard that it is cheaper to do it yourself, I decided to master the specialty of a laborer and replace training in the gym with useful physical labor.

Brick plinth on a strip foundation

It is better to choose burnt brick. He has technical indicators for various properties and, in particular, for stability, much higher

On the strip foundation, a support layer is made under the walls of different materials, from cast reinforced concrete to stone. Red brick for the base combines:

  • the required strength;
  • simplicity of brickwork;
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • budget cost.

With a little skill and patience, you can lay out the plinth with your own hands in a few days. To protect the walls from moisture, waterproofing is done during the construction of the basement. You can lubricate the surface of the foundation with heated bitumen in several layers. In time, this is a long time, since it is necessary to wait for the applied material to solidify and only then spread the next one on the surface.

It is better to use roofing material in 2 layers. The strips are cut along the width of the base, plus 4-5 centimeters. They are fastened with bituminous glue and fixed on the surface of the foundation. You can make the mixture with your own hands or use the finished one by buying it in the store. In heated bitumen, I added washed river sand. My friend mixed everything well.

Checking the dimensions and geometry of the foundation for the base

Bassoon plinth

Before starting work, I decided to check the strip foundation. Time has passed since it was filled. He could shrink, washed away by rainwater. The unevenness of the base plane will entail the distortion of the entire house and the constant repair of walls and ceilings. Measurements are taken using a ruler, tape measure and cord.

  1. I measured the strip foundation with the help of a lath level along and across in several places. This is best done in the corners and every 2 meters of length. By placing a long device, it is easy to determine the presence of a slope. If you only have a corner level with short sides, put a plank underneath.
  2. On the foundation in the corners he laid a dry brick along the outer edge. Then, with the help of Vadik, I checked the diagonal. For a regular rectangle, the size of the cord from corner to corner is the same. If the length is different, then the corners are not straight. For a brick basement of a residential building, a difference in the length of the diagonals of up to 2 centimeters is permissible.
  3. Find the skew, and check the dimensions better with a tape measure. Measured at the corners. The foundation was poured without formwork. The outer walls are uneven. Brick simplifies measurements.

Having corrected the dimensions by shifting the corners, we checked the diagonals again with a cord. Then I marked the position of the brick base. Now, pulling the cord and fastening it to the pegs, he marked the outer side of the walls. It remains to lay out the plinth of bricks. I was sure of the correctness of the geometry of the frame of the house.

My friend smeared the strip foundation with glue from above with glue, laid layers of prepared roofing material, connected together with a bituminous mixture. The bottom waterproofing is ready. The walls will not get damp from moisture from the soil. Under the brick, on the waterproofing, I laid out a layer of cement mortar 2 cm thick. It will serve as a pillow and compensate for irregularities. For strength, I drowned a metal mesh with a 50 mm cell in it, cutting it slightly narrower in width than the base.

Brick laying pattern and plinth width

Brick plinth

We started preparing a ditch for the strip foundation after the completion of the house project. Then I imagined exactly what the width of the brick base should be, based on the calculated loads. The weight of a two-story brick building is large. If the masonry is narrow - 250 mm, then the brick for the basement may not withstand. Cracks will form on the walls. Repair and strengthening of the house will cost more than construction.

What width to make the foundation is determined by the laying of the basement. Standard brick dimensions are 250x120x50 mm. The minimum size can be laid out by alternating rows with transverse laying in one row and longitudinal in two. Such a foundation is made for light houses made of wood, foam concrete, shell rock. Under walls made of wood and light material for cottages on 2 floors, laying one and a half bricks (380 mm) is suitable. Vadik plans 2 levels, a residential attic with insulation. It is better to use a wide masonry for a brick base in two rows (520 mm). House repairs will need to be done on this basis in 15 years.

Determining the size of the finished plinth in width is simple. To the dimensions of the brick is added 10 mm for each seam. I did row alternation:

  • two rows of bricks across the foundation;
  • the outer and inner rows are lengthwise, the middle is filled with artificial stones laid transversely.

Such a plinth guaranteed stability for a multi-storey building made of heavy building material. Repair of the basement exterior finish may be required after a few years.

The choice of materials for the plinth of ceramic bricks

Silicate blocks can only be used in dry climates

When buying a brick, Vadik asked me which one to take and why. I advised him solid. With a temperature difference, especially in winter, condensation appears in the holes - dew. Moisture accumulates, is absorbed into the material and destroys the base. It will need renovation in a few years. A practicing economist, Vadik, was interested in a cheaper way to build a brick basement. I told him about the possibility of using used material. When dismantling buildings and demolishing partitions, if they make major repairs, they break walls. The brick is cleaned of the old mortar and tightly laid in the basement, choosing the less damaged one for the outer rows. In terms of strength, such a top foundation is inferior to that laid out from a new stone, with the correct geometry. Loads on it are made less. Do-it-yourself styling for a beginner is difficult. It is necessary to constantly check the level and select pieces of brick of the right size.

As a binder, I used cement mortar brand M-75. My friend did it in a concrete mixer. Loaded into it:

  • cement;
  • sand;
  • lime milk;
  • water was added after stirring.

The proportions depend on the brand of cement. For example: 0.8 liters of lime diluted in water to the state of milk is added to one bucket of Portland cement M500. Sand 7 buckets. Water is added for the first time in parts and its proportion in the mixture is determined. The solution should be kept on a trowel by a slide and not slide off an inclined plane.

Tip: Lime should not exceed 10% by volume in the dry mix. It is better to introduce it already slaked and dissolved in water - milk of lime. For builders without experience, working slowly, it is better to buy a ready-made mixture with plasticizers and additives that slow down the setting of the solution.

Ligation of bricks in the basement and waterproofing

Do-it-yourself brick masonry

On the waterproofing layer, my friend laid out a layer of concrete and pressed the mesh into it. Now I did the laying of the plinth. I need an assistant to prepare the solution. But Vadik wanted to try to do everything with his own hands. He asked me to choose a site simpler, on a flat line without corners. He carefully aligned the outer row along the stretched cord and then laid the rest of the brick tightly. After a couple of hours, I got used to doing everything myself. I fixed 2 boards at each corner close to the masonry. Now it remained to lay the brick, pressing against them. Carnations for the cord of the outer line were easily hammered into the tree. Such a device helps out when it is necessary to repair the corners and facade of the house.

Every 4 rows, now I, as an assistant, laid the mesh for strength. While the concrete mixer was running, I marked out openings for vents - holes for ventilation of the underground space of the house. I prepared the top layer of waterproofing, which was additionally laid under the masonry walls.

I advised Vadik to choose masonry with bandaging half the width of the brick. The outer layer alternated with transverse and longitudinal rows. Now when laying, the joints did not match. This made the base durable, and excluded repairs in the near future.

Protective and decorative finishing of the outer side of the plinth and blind area

Brick plinth masonry

Having finished laying the basement, we dug a ditch around the perimeter and poured a pillow under the blind area. Its width was determined by the size of the overhang of the roof, plus a strip for guaranteed rainwater runoff onto the concrete path. The slope from the building was 1.5 - 2 degrees. Otherwise, water will leak under the basement, destroy the foundation and have to make repairs, removing mold in the corner of the walls.

I made the final exterior finish with a decorative stone on a concrete mortar after the walls were erected.


The basement is the lower part of the outer wall of the building, which is erected on the base and plays the role of a barrier between the wall and the destructive effects of atmospheric phenomena. A building without a basement is at risk from mold and rot and is less able to retain heat inside during the cold season. The main condition for a brick base on a strip foundation is high strength. Its structure must withstand the entire mass of the walls of the building. High-quality materials with a high level of resistance to frost, moisture and pressure strength will help to achieve the required indicator.

To date, there are three options for the basement, which are used in the construction of residential premises:

  • Exit plinth. From the name you can understand that such a coating goes beyond the outer walls of the house. This kind of basement will be used if they want to achieve additional heat resistance during frost, or if this is required by the style of the building itself, because from an aesthetic point of view this option is more attractive. So that water does not linger on the surface of the base, it is usually equipped with grooves or a drainage system.
  • The plinth end-to-end with the outer walls has recently been used extremely rarely. This fact is due, first of all, to the absence of any useful properties in this type of base.
  • The recessed base will be used in the construction of residential buildings. Erected 6 cm deeper than the plane of the outer walls, this type of plinth can save money on the organization of water runoff, and also ensure the safety of the waterproofing layer.

What should be the width of the plinth


The dimensions of the basement directly depend on the material from which the walls of the building will be built. Such information is always contained in the general plan and on the project drawing. With walls made of foam block (which is sometimes also called gas silicate brick) with a long surface of 60 cm, a width of 30 cm and a height of 20 cm, the masonry must have a thickness of at least 30 cm.

If further construction involves the equipment of an additional insulating layer on top of the walls, then the width of the plinth should ideally be 38 cm. However, in the case when the brick is used as a decorative element built on top of the walls of foam concrete blocks, the thickness of the plinth increases by another 22 cm, after which it will be at least 60 cm.

Determining the height

Until now, the masters of the construction business do not have an unambiguous answer to the question of what should be the height of the basement. As the level at which the upper point of the masonry should be, it is best to take the height of the precipitation that has fallen over the past few years. This masonry technology is the most reliable and guarantees a long service life for a future building erected on a brick strip foundation.

But in practice, the most common basement masonry with a height equal to the floor of the first floor in the building. This technique also applies to buildings with a basement. Fashion and style trends in our time imply the presence of a high and massive plinth in the house, which are able to highlight the living space, giving it elegance and elegance.

Insulated brick base on a strip foundation

We remind you that all work on the organization of the basement is carried out on the erected tape base.

We outline the corners

One of the most important rules in the construction of not only the base, but any building in general, can be considered the correct definition of the corners of the structure. Negligence in this matter will certainly lead to a curvature of the surface of the walls, which will eventually lead to their partial or even full bearing capacity.

Several technologies are used to correctly set the corners, but the following technique is considered the simplest:

  1. At all corners of the base of the building, a row of bricks is laid out without the use of cement mortar. In this case, the planned width of the future structure must be observed. The corners are inserted using the building level.
  2. Next, measure the length and width on both sides, as well as the diagonals. All readings must match to the nearest centimeter. Measurements are carried out using a tape measure or twine.
  3. It does not hurt to check the future walls again for irregularities. To do this, use the same twine.

Base surface waterproofing

In order to ensure reliable protection of the basement masonry from groundwater, care should be taken to organize the upper part of the foundation with an insulating layer, the functions of which can be performed by roofing material folded in half. It is glued to the surface of the base using bituminous mastic, a burner or heated bitumen. Also, glass isol, euroroofing material or an improved type of roofing material, which is based on cardboard - rubemast, is used as a waterproofing layer.

Bricklaying


Having provided the surface of the foundation with a waterproofing layer, you can start laying a brick basement. To fasten the bars, a solution of cement, sand and water is used. When building a basement, only red brick is used without holes and cavities.

They start laying out the base from the corners, placing the rows opposite each other, and covering the surface of the material with a solution 2-2.5 cm thick. After laying out several rows, the surface is checked with a level.

Having reached the minimum height of the base, which is 4 rows of standard bricks, you can begin to build walls. Trim the surface of the basement with decorative stone or siding. It is not uncommon to resort to decorating the basement with finishing tiles. With the help of a basement coating, the strip foundation is leveled with a brick.

If there is a basement floor in the room, holes in the basement for ventilation should be provided. They are located at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil. Dimensions depend on the diameter of the vent pipe. From above, the plinth is covered with a waterproofing layer, the same as the surface of the foundation was covered earlier.

Video about laying bricks on a strip base:

Plinth - the lower part of the outer wall of the house, built on the foundation and designed to save the walls from the damaging effects of moisture. A house without a plinth is at risk of mold and rot, may lose its ability to resist cold and increase heat transfer between the interior and the street.

One of the indisputable conditions is the strength of the basement, because the entire weight of the walls of the house rests on it. That is why the materials used must be of high quality, characterized by frost resistance, low moisture resistance and pressure resistance.

There are three basement options used in construction:

  • Outgoing - goes beyond the wall. This option is justified in two cases - it is part of the design of the building (aesthetically it is more advantageous) or there is a need for enhanced insulation of the basement. Be sure to be equipped with a slope or a groove for water drainage.

    Exit plinth sample

  • Standing end-to-end with a wall is an unpopular option today due to the lack of useful qualities.
  • Recessed by 6 cm into the wall of the house - the most optimal when building a house. It has a number of advantages: savings in construction, the security of the joint of the basement and the wall, which ensures the safety of the waterproofing layer, the absence of an indispensable condition for ensuring the discharge of water.

    Recessed plinth sample

Plinth width

To select the overall width of the plinth, it is worth referring to the drawing of the building project to determine the material that will be used to build the walls. For example, for gas silicate bricks (commonly known as foam concrete) with a side size of 600 X 300 X 200, the thickness of the masonry should be 30 cm, and if additional wall insulation is planned in the future, then a width of 38 cm is what you need. But when using brick as a decorative element on top of foam concrete blocks, the thickness increases to 60 cm.

Plinth height

The question of where the base ends is still controversial. The most reliable option is considered to determine the height based on the maximum amount of snowfall over several decades. The plinth, calculated using this simple technique, will protect the walls from the effects of capillary moisture, thereby increasing the reliability and durability of the built house.

But basically, the height corresponds to the level at which the floor of the first floor of the building is located. This rule also applies to houses with a basement.

Designers usually prefer a tall one, as it gives the home lightness and grace.

The erection of a recessed brick base on a reinforced concrete strip foundation.

(Further instructions are for building on a ready-made foundation.)

  • Setting corners when building a basement.

One of the most important rules for laying the basement is the correct setting of the corners, because incorrectly set corners will lead to further curvature of the walls and, accordingly, to marriage in the construction of the building.

The simplest way is this:

In all corners, lay a row of dry bricks, determining the width of the planned basement. The corners are level.

With a tape measure or twine, the lengths of all sides and both diagonals are measured - the dimensions must match up to centimeters and be equal, respectively.

It is also worth checking future walls for possible curvature, using the same twine along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

The process of building a plinth

Waterproofing of the upper surface of the foundation.

Insulation is necessary for additional protection of the basement from groundwater.

Two layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation in the following ways:

  1. on bituminous mastic or heated bitumen;
  2. connection with a burner, processing the surface of the roofing material.

You can use rubemast, glass roofing material (stekloizol), euroroofing material.

Plinth waterproofing

Brick plinth masonry

After setting the corners, it's time to start laying the base. To create it, a brick bonded with a cement-sand mortar is usually used. Only solid red brick is used for construction.

It is advisable to start laying from the corners, then lay out the rows opposite each other on one side with the thickness of the applied mortar somewhere around 20-25mm.

A plumb line checks the accuracy of laying a vertical surface after 3-4 rows of bricks.

After the final check of the corners, the laying of the wall begins. To make the row even, a thick fishing line is pulled between two corners.

Brick plinth masonry

The minimum height is at least 4 stacked rows, natural stone finishes, finishing tiles or siding are allowed.

If the house has basements, ventilation holes are left on each side of the basement at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil, ranging in size from 7 x 25 to 15 x 25 cm. closed with nets or small bars.

Brick finish plinth

Plinth waterproofing

To protect against moisture penetration, it is necessary to lay waterproofing materials, making a distinction between the basement and the brick wall; for cheap construction, for example, roofing material folded in half can be used. Of course, it is not necessary to manage only with them; the choice of materials for insulation is now quite extensive. Double waterproofing is necessary in order to protect the house not only from the external influence of the elements, but also from the influence of groundwater on the foundation.

Basement waterproofing scheme

Video - how to make a brick base

The basement is the outer part of the building, located on the foundation and being the transition from the base to the walls. In addition to its bearing capacity, the plinth must withstand various external influences. Therefore, it is necessary to choose all materials with special care and responsibility!

Features of a brick base

Before starting masonry work, you need to familiarize yourself with important details:
If the building material is brick, then you need to decide on the thickness of the frame.

Tip: Based on the size of the building and what material the walls will be made of, the thickness of the foundation directly depends. For example, the thickness for a brick structure should be from 500 mm (in 2 bricks), for a wooden one - at least 250 mm (in 1–1.5 bricks).

Before brick laying, it is necessary to apply a layer of waterproofing on the strip foundation, which will be protection from moisture.

A good roofing material is used as a waterproofing, but in some cases bitumen-based coating compositions are used, which must be applied with a layer of 1.5–2 mm. Rolled material will still be not only more reliable, but also easier.

Brick laying is done flat so that the top layer of masonry overlaps the seams of the bottom row. Before starting laying, it is necessary to stretch the cord along the foundation. Each row must be checked for evenness using a building level.

It is worth remembering that the thickness of the brick base will be different for each material from which the walls of the building are erected.

Preparatory work

This includes the purchase, preparation and subsequent laying of the selected mortar (cement or cement-sand). It is best to purchase solutions labeled M75 for such work.

The prepared mixture is laid out on the foundation gradually with a layer of 2 cm and slightly leveled. In the middle of the layer, it is required to lay a mesh of reinforcement; for its manufacture, VR-1 wire with a diameter of 4 mm is required.

Preparatory work consists of 2 stages:

  1. Checking the diagonal and horizontality of the foundation, which is carried out using a hydraulic level, which first of all needs to check the corners and only then the entire area.
  2. Surface leveling.Attention! If you want to make a foundation at 0, then you need to think about this even during its pouring. And if it is already completely ready, but there are deformations, then they need to be corrected.

What will be needed?

To perform masonry, you will need the following material, which must be reliable and of high quality:

  • brick;
  • cement mortar;
  • Net.

For work you will need:

  1. Master OK;
  2. pick;
  3. shovel;
  4. order;
  5. cord;
  6. stitching;
  7. levels for construction work and water;
  8. metal rod;
  9. trough;
  10. plumb.

For the construction of the foundation, in addition to bricks, you need to buy the optimal amount of sand and cement.

Laying work

The most crucial stage at the beginning of the construction of the basement is the construction of corners. The first row must be laid out strictly across the entire width of the building. A solution of cement, water and sand should have the following proportions 1:3:3.

ADVICE: sometimes a soap solution is used as a plasticizer. During the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to take care of high-quality ventilation. You can start work only when the angles are equal to 90 degrees, and the dimensions of the width, length and diagonal match.

ATTENTION! If the basement masonry is only made of bricks, then its width should be at least 50 cm, it can only be less if the insulation is made of foam. If the building will have a basement, then the height of the basement is 70–100 cm, if not, then 40 cm.

The brick basement is insulated from the inside as desired, and outside, mastic is required, which is applied with a brush, roller or a specialized apparatus. Laying is carried out with constant control of the level and cord.

ATTENTION! It is impossible to correct inaccuracies using the thickness of the mortar between the rows of bricks - the wall may collapse and then you will have to disassemble the entire structure!

Setting corners

Setting the corners during the laying of the basement is one of the main tasks, incorrectly placed corners will lead to the curvature of the walls!

To do this, put on a dry row of bricks in the corners and determine the desired width of the base. All corners must be level.

Using twine or a tape measure, it is necessary to measure the length of all sides and 2 diagonals - if the corners are set correctly, then the dimensions should match identically.

ADVICE: in order to check future walls for curvature, for this they measure along the inside of the line from corner to corner.

Brick plinth over foundation

You can proceed with the installation only after all measurements have been made. To fix the bricks, a cement-sand mortar is required in a ratio of 1: 3, diluted with water to the required density of the mortar.

The main condition for this work is the careful filling of vertical or horizontal joints with a prepared mortar for the strength of the foundation.

basement insulation

To insulate the foundation, waterproof materials such as polystyrene foam are required, which need to process the entire outer surface, fix it with a special glue - which does not include acetone and solvent - that harm it.

Plinth waterproofing

Before proceeding with the construction of the structure, you need to make sure that all waterproofing materials are in stock - plaster, stone, ceramic tiles.

Waterproofing methods:

  • Waterproofing is carried out at 2 levels - at the very bottom, before the first brick laying, and on top of the bricks. The easiest way is to lay the roofing material in two layers. The first layer guarantees protection against moisture of the wall, and the second layer provides protection.
  • Extruded polystyrene foam, which is fixed on the outer surface of the base. Due to the fact that this material has zero water absorption, it has high protective properties. It also has thermal insulation, and therefore will give the structure additional protection.
  • Bitumen grease is applied to the entire surface of the bricks in thick layers in several approaches. Various plaster mixtures.

ATTENTION! If you combine all the options, you will end up with high waterproofing!

Ventilation

In the laying of the foundation, there must be holes that are at a height of 15 cm from the ground, which will ensure good ventilation. You need to cover the holes with a metal mesh or dampers.

Brick plinth protection

Protection is required if it is necessary to stop construction work. To do this, a film is laid on the structure being erected, which protects the frame from various adverse environmental conditions.

Although this article contains detailed instructions on how to lay a brick plinth, they will not help if there is not even a little experience with these materials.

You can not choose a brick for the basement without understanding what kind of architectural element it is, when it is needed and what requirements are put forward for it. Only taking into account these data, it is possible to choose the optimal brick for the base, take into account all the parameters and performance characteristics.

A basement is the part of a building that protrudes above ground level. This can be a continuation of the foundation tape (called the basement of the foundation), reinforced concrete blocks or brickwork.

The parameters of the base depend on the maximum loads. If the house has reinforced concrete floor slabs on the ground floor, then the basement must be much stronger than the walls, its width increases, building materials with suitable bearing capacity are used. In all other cases, the plinth may not differ in size from ordinary facade walls.

It is often not economically feasible to make a basement out of concrete; brickwork will cost much less. A separate basement is also installed when the basement is planned to be equipped for residential. Brick is much warmer than concrete, which improves comfort and reduces the cost of maintaining a favorable microclimate.

We have already mentioned one feature of the plinth - it must hold the heaviest loads of all the architectural structures of the building. But that's not all - the base is operated in the most adverse conditions.

  1. Proximity to the ground increases the negative impact of precipitation and groundwater. If the upper part of the wall is slightly wetted during rain, then all the water from the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade walls gets onto the basement.
  2. Due to frequent and intense wetting, it is extremely negatively affected by temperature changes from plus to minus.
  3. The plinth has vents for natural ventilation of the underground. This means that it is more than all elements of the building in adverse operating conditions.
  4. If the house has a basement, then the materials must have low thermal conductivity. At the same time, the requirements for strength indicators are not reduced.

The use of various grades of bricks makes it possible to construct structures with the required thickness and height parameters in the shortest possible time and with little financial loss. Indicators of physical strength vary depending on the thickness of the base, thermal conductivity is regulated by the special characteristics of the brick or through the use of modern heaters. To protect the surfaces of the basement from the negative influence of climatic conditions, wall finishing is used. By the way, it also improves the design of the facade of the building. This factor must be borne in mind, not all types of bricks are allowed to use finishing, and if it can be done, then expensive materials and complex building technologies will have to be used.

Requirements for basement structures are prescribed in SNiP II-22-81. They indicate that the use of stones and blocks made of cellular concrete, ceramic or other bricks of dry manufacturing technology is not allowed. This means that the assertion of some "experts" in construction that hollow bricks cannot be used for plinths is unreasonable. The types of building materials listed in building codes and regulations are unsuitable for plinths for one common reason - they react extremely negatively to high humidity. Under such operating conditions, there is a significant loss of load-bearing characteristics and accelerated destruction.

SNiP II-22-81. "Stone and reinforced masonry structures". Download file

For all other types of bricks, the main requirement is compressive and bending strength indicators. Modern manufacturers have mastered the most advanced technologies that make it possible to obtain very durable hollow bricks, grade M 150 or more, they are used to build load-bearing walls of two-story and more buildings.

Why can't such material be used for the basement of one-story brick or wooden buildings? If the load allows, feel free to use them for the base.

One more nuance. When choosing bricks, it must be borne in mind that the larger the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base, the more significant the effort it holds. Based on the total load, the material of manufacture and linear dimensions are selected. As for the heat-saving characteristics, there are no regulatory requirements for the base.

What is the result?

It is impossible to put a basement without knowing the total weight of the house, the height of the snow cover, the seismic characteristics of the area and other factors that affect the foundation and the basement.

From the maximum load, the strength parameters of the brick and the dimensions of the base are calculated. In practice, brick grades below M 100 are rarely used for the basement, but this is an optional condition. Two bricks M 50 withstand almost the same load as one M 100, only it must be distributed over the entire surface of the masonry. The project includes a safety factor, which compensates for minor deviations from the regulatory requirements. And deviations always occur during the laying of any architectural structure.

Remember that putting the base "by eye" is a very risky business. By the way, all residential premises must have a project, otherwise they cannot be put into operation. And without an act, engineering networks are not connected, registration is not given, such buildings cannot be sold, donated or bequeathed by inheritance. Legally, they simply do not exist.

As mentioned above, our recommendations do not apply to residential buildings, they should be built only according to the project, and in it all the requirements and parameters of the bricks are indicated. Consider the cases of choosing a brick for a basement only for non-residential buildings and outbuildings. According to what characteristics should the material be selected?

Frost resistance

Bricks, depending on the brand and manufacturing technology, have this indicator from F15 to F100 or more. This means that the material can withstand 25-100 freeze/thaw cycles at maximum humidity. And moisture permeability ranges from 2% to 12%. State standards regulate the minimum period of natural wear and tear of buildings, it is 50 years. If an F50 brand brick is dipped fifty times in water and then exposed to frost, it will lose about 30% of its original strength, which is considered a critical value. But the basement brick will never get completely wet, it is always plastered or protected by other coatings. In practice, the F50 brand brick holds much more than fifty freeze / thaw cycles.

Why do bricks lose strength during freezing / freezing and what does it depend on? During freezing, water expands in volume by about 10%, while the forces of ice are so great that no known building material can withstand them. The more water there is in the brick, the more ice microcrystals in the brick, the faster the destruction occurs.

Strength

It is determined according to GOST 530-2007, the grade of brick for laying load-bearing walls must be at least M125, with a margin of safety, designers recommend using brick grade M150 for plinths.

GOST 530-2007. Brick and ceramic stone. Download file

According to these indicators, bricks made from many materials and using various technologies are suitable, but some of them cannot be used in conditions of high humidity.

Let's consider one example. The M100 grade means that the brick can withstand a load per square centimeter of at least 100 kg and not more than 125 kg. The surface area of ​​a standard brick is 25 cm x 12 cm = 300 cm2. One M100 brand brick is designed for a load of at least 30 tons.

We have given a calculation so that you can more clearly imagine what efforts bricks of various brands can withstand. Of course, these values ​​assume that the load is evenly distributed over the entire surface (bed), in practice this rarely happens due to the presence of air pockets in the masonry.

What types of bricks can be used for a plinth?

NameBrief performance indicators

Water absorption ≤ 12%, strength ≥ M100, frost resistance not less than F50. It is used most often, universal application. The front surface must be protected from the negative effects of precipitation.

Water absorption ≤ 16%, strength ≥ M150, frost resistance not less than F50. it is used for plinths of light buildings without reinforced concrete floor slabs. The outer surface must be plastered with a cement-sand mortar or lined with durable materials. Afraid of mechanical damage.

Water absorption ≤ 5%, strength ≥ M250, frost resistance not less than F100. In all technical parameters, it surpasses ceramic samples. It is recommended to use two or more bricks wide during the laying of the plinth as an external front row. The surface of the plinth of this option does not need to be additionally finished with various building materials. The disadvantage of clinker bricks is the high cost.

Now, having an idea about the requirements for the base and the technical parameters of the bricks, you can consciously choose specific materials and start laying the element.

Step-by-step instructions for laying the plinth

Step 1. Calculate the required amount depending on the width and height of the masonry. Take the data on the approximate number from the table.

How many bricks are needed per 1 m3 of basement.

Brick sizesQuantity, parameters of seams are not taken into accountQuantity including seams

512 394

378 302

242 200

If you are working with bricks of non-standard sizes, you will have to independently calculate the volume of the base and divide it by the volume of one brick. The calculations do not represent anything complicated, there is no need to describe them.

Step 2 Check the horizontality of the foundation tape. If the foundation was made by responsible builders, then the deviation from the horizontal at the corners of the building will not exceed two centimeters, such a spread is easily eliminated without additional operations during the preparation of the base of the first row of the basement. It is necessary to check the horizontalness of the foundation using a water or laser level. Were there significant deviations? You have to straighten the tape.

  1. Fasten straight rails in a vertical position at the corners of the foundation. The sizes are arbitrary, you do not need to take long ones.
  2. Beat off the horizontal on one of them, transfer the value of the horizontal to the second rail.
  3. Pull the rope along the marks, do not let it sag. Measure the distance between the rope and the foundation plane along the entire length of the tape. Thus, you can estimate the approximate amount of work and calculate the amount of materials.
  4. If the irregularities exceed 2 centimeters, you will have to prepare a concrete mixture, the spread is smaller - you can use an ordinary cement-sand mortar. One condition - during the manufacture of the material, increase the amount of cement, it must be at least three parts per one part of sand.
  5. Spread the finished solution on the surface of the foundation tape and align it with a stretched rope. Work can be done by eye, in the future the bricks of the basement will be set according to the level and all flaws will be eliminated.
  6. It will take at least two weeks to harden. If the weather is very hot and dry, then the solution should be abundantly moistened with water at least three times a day.

Do not rush to immediately start laying the base, strictly adhere to the recommended technology.

Step 3 On a flat tape, lay two layers of roofing material to waterproof the bricks. This is very important, without waterproofing, the plinth will quickly collapse.

Step 4 You need to start laying with laying two corners. The technology depends on how many bricks are in a row in width. You can lay corners from one, one and a half, two, two and a half and three bricks. If you do not have experience in the production of such works, then practice. Lay bricks first without mortar, then work with mortar. Movements should become automatic, during training, constantly use control tools. Be sure to do the dressing, alternate the spoon and poke rows. There was an experience - put the corners directly on the foundation tape. The height of the corners is 5–7 bricks. For starters, the height is enough, so it is easier to control the correct laying and timely correct possible deviations in the position of the base.

Step 5. At the height of the first row of each corner, drive in carnations, pull the rope. Make sure that the rope lies exactly on the edges of the bricks. This completes the preparatory work for laying the corners of the basement, start working on straight sections.

Further work on the plinth is no different from work with the wall, the rows are constantly dressed. If you use clinker bricks for external surfaces, then use them only on the visible side.

Beginner mistakes

Prices for building levels

Building levels

The basement is a very important element of the structure and the only one that cannot be repaired. Even problems with the foundation can be solved, there are special technologies to strengthen it. True, this will take a lot of time and is expensive. If the base began to collapse due to incorrect calculations, then nothing can be fixed. We focus on this not in order to scare developers, but in order to force them to carefully follow all the recommendations of professionals and proven technologies over the years. We will try to answer a few questions that are often asked by novice masons.

Is it possible to lay a mortar with a thickness of more than one centimeter to level the base? Such a need arises most often on foundations made of reinforced concrete blocks. Only competent specialists under the guidance of an experienced foreman can properly lay foundations from such materials. He must constantly monitor the position of each block with a professional level. If the variation in height does not exceed 2-3 centimeters, then it can be eliminated with a solution. But be sure to use a metal reinforcing mesh, the wire diameter is at least 5 mm. No plastic materials can withstand the load on the plinth, they are only suitable for plastering walls.

Laying out the solution

Is it possible to use bricks made without firing for the plinth? It is possible, but undesirable, we have already discussed this issue above. But if you really need to put these bricks somewhere, then laying them is allowed only inside the basement, all sides should be covered with ceramic bricks. Accordingly, they can only be used on plinths with a width of at least two bricks, otherwise it is impossible to make the correct strapping and fulfill the described condition.

In what cases can you do without leveling the foundation tape with concrete mortar? This is a rather difficult technology, let's dwell on it in detail.

Prices for cement and mixture bases

Cement and mixture bases

  1. The foreman at each corner of the foundation beats off (shoots off) the values ​​by which it is necessary to raise the upper plane of the base. These measurements are made with a level. For example, +12 cm is written on one corner of the foundation, +20 cm on the second, +15 cm on the third, etc. Such marks are made on all sections of the foundation on which floor slabs should lie, in these places the base should go to zero mark - the level of floor coverings. Of course, a large variation in the height of the foundation tape indicates that it was made by frank hacks.
  2. Develop a preliminary plan for getting to the desired height. You need to start from the corners, then all the rows are aligned along them. Make a plan to solve the problem first. If, for example, you need to raise the height of the base by 15 cm in two rows, then this can only be done with the help of a solution. Lay about 2.5 cm on the foundation with the obligatory use of a metal reinforcing mesh, the upper beds of the bricks are equal to the net mass. There are cases when it is necessary to use bricks of different thicknesses, you will have to buy them additionally. It is forbidden to use bricks split with a hammer over the entire thickness for the base; they can only be cut on a special machine with a diamond blade and water cooling.
  3. After all the corners are made taking into account the measurements, start laying the rows, while using a stretched rope to control the position. We must say right away that such works are complex, we do not recommend beginners to deal with them. It is better to invite a professional for a few days, he will lay out the corners, and it is already easier to work on them.

What are the types of plinths?

Depending on the position of the front surface in relation to the front wall, the plinth can be:

  • speakers. It is used if it is necessary to increase the bearing performance of the base, the plane of the element protrudes several centimeters beyond the plane of the wall. The disadvantage is that special measures must be taken to drain rainwater coming from the walls;
  • sinking. The facade wall hangs over the plinth. It is recommended to use in cases where the plinth is made of durable building materials that do not require finishing;
  • in one plane. The facade wall and the plinth are located in one line. The option is rare, most often on irresponsible outbuildings. The finishing of the facade and the plinth is made with the same materials and using the same technology or is not done at all.

What should be the height of the plinth? There are no special requirements, it all depends on the presence and purpose of the basement and the horizontalness of the foundation tape. If the building does not have basements, and the tape is even, then there is no need to make a special base. As for the advice “at least 50-60-70” and so on centimeters, you should not pay attention to them. The final decision is made only taking into account the architectural features of the structure.

And the last. Do not forget to leave air in the plinths for natural ventilation. underground space. Unless, of course, the design of the house provides for their presence.

Video - Plinth masonry

When it comes to the foundation, most people immediately imagine a tape base.

And not in vain, because the tape is the basic type, the most successful and reliable support structure.

No type of foundation can demonstrate such a combination of qualities, economy and simplicity as.

It has several design options that expand the capabilities of the base and allow you to get the best option for given conditions.

Consider one of the specific working moments that arise with the tape - the creation of a brick base.

Brick base has the following advantages:

  • Assembly from piece materials is slower, but does not require material exposure time, so it is ultimately much faster than concrete casting.
  • The brick base allows you to correct the shortcomings made in the process of casting the tape. In particular, you can correct the shape, align the corners, etc.
  • An intermediate layer appears between the walls and the tape, which allows you to redistribute the load and more evenly transfer it to the tape.
  • The brick has certain thermal insulation abilities, which can improve the microclimate of the zero level or the first floor.

The disadvantages include:

  • Brick is able to absorb moisture, which creates problems for the construction of the whole house and requires appropriate measures.
  • Bricklaying is a labor-intensive process that requires skill and experience.
  • The bearing capacity of a brick is lower than that of a concrete casting.
  • A large number of connecting seams significantly weakens the masonry, making the plinth vulnerable to mechanical stress and moisture.

Both advantages and disadvantages directly follow from the properties of bricks, so they should be considered typical building material features.

Types of bricks and which one is the most optimal

There are many varieties of brick blocks, but not all are suitable for laying the basement.

For example, silicate brick, with external attractiveness, cannot be used to build a basement due to low bearing capacity and high hygroscopicity.

These two qualities are unacceptable for the basement, since this element takes on almost the full weight of the house and rainwater from the surface of the walls.

The best option for the material will be a full-bodied ceramic brick. It has the most successful combination of quality, price and performance..

Some sources indicate clinker bricks as a suitable option. This is a highly controversial option.

The fact is that clinker practically does not absorb water..

This is both an advantage and a disadvantage of the material, since for high-quality adhesion to the masonry mortar, it is necessary that the material can absorb moisture. Otherwise, the strength of the connection disappears, and the seams begin to have an adverse effect..

They absorb moisture, which freezes and expands, destroying the masonry.

How to calculate the number of bricks

The calculation of the amount of material is based on the parameters of the base.

Its height is always a multiple of an integer number of rows, and corresponds to common masonry types:

  • In half a brick (120 mm). For 1 m2 of masonry (including seams), 51 pieces of a standard single brick are used.
  • In brick (250 mm). 102 bricks per 1 m2.
  • One and a half bricks (380 mm). 153 pcs/m2.
  • In two bricks (510 mm) 204 pcs/m2, etc.

The required amount of brick can be calculated from the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe tape, guided by the given standards.

You can approach the solution of the issue differently and count the number of briquettes by the piece, dividing the length of the tape by the length of one piece and multiplying by the number of bricks in the thickness of the masonry and then multiplying by the number of rows.

For those who don't have the time or inclination to do the math, an online calculator can be helpful.

There are many of them, they all operate on the same principle - enter your own data in the appropriate boxes- tape length, width, other initial data.

The result is the desired value, taking into account the size and other features of the selected type of brick.

In any case, the result obtained should be increased by 15-20% in order to compensate for losses from poor-quality cutting, scrapping, or other unproductive material costs.

Choice of width and height

The width of the plinth is a parameter related to the thickness of the tape and the walls of the house.

There are three options:

  • Speaker. It is thicker than the walls, so rainwater flows directly onto it. This contributes to the destruction of the plinth and requires the installation of a protective visor and sheathing.
  • Built flush with the plane of the walls. It is a continuation of the outer walls, but when the skin is installed, the thickness increases and makes it protruding.
  • Falling base type. Its thickness is less, which allows, during the installation of the cladding, to align the plane of the wall and the plinth, forming harmoniously combined surfaces.

The choice of the most suitable option is made when comparing the bearing capacity of the material and the thickness of the base, to what extent it allows masonry of one thickness or another.

The height of the plinth is the subject of constant disputes and discussions.

The main criteria for choosing a height are:

  • The maximum height of snow cover in recent years.
  • Floor level of the first floor (zero level).

For regions with snowy winters, the height of the snow cover is a significant factor, since at the onset of melting, a low plinth can cause the walls to get wet.

The floor level of the first floor is a technologically justified reference point, which makes it possible to simplify construction work and do without unnecessary measures.

Types of masonry

There are many types of masonry having decorative or purely practical value.

The choice of the most suitable option is primarily determined by the thickness of the base.

Since there are no socles in half a brick, the minimum option is bricklaying. The main element of masonry is dressing, i.e. placement of bricks in such a way that all seams are crossed by solid briquettes.

The most famous way of ligation is the usual spoon masonry, but it does not allow you to tie the outer and inner rows together.

Therefore, chain masonry is most often used, when one row of bricks is laid in the usual spoon way, and the other row is bonded, i.e. consisting of bricks laid across the axis of the wall.

NOTE!

When using chain masonry, there are special rules that prescribe the poke of the first and last row, protruding elements or areas located directly under the beams.

General construction scheme

The procedure for laying a brick base:

  • Surface preparation of the tape, waterproofing, installation of a mooring cord.
  • Laying the first row of bricks.
  • Lifting corners.
  • Filling gaps between corners.
  • Laying the top row, waterproofing the basement surface.

Depending on the design features of the house, some additional steps may be required, for example, laying out curved sections of the basement, etc.

Such work is carried out according to a special methodology adopted for such elements..

Solution preparation

This procedure is designed to exclude the possibility of moisture absorption from concrete into brick, which is dangerous and threatens the rapid destruction of the basement.

As a waterproofing, a double layer of high-quality roofing material is traditionally used., with intermediate application of bituminous mastic.

There are many other options, but roofing material is the cheapest, most durable and easy-to-work material, so it is usually preferred.

First row masonry

The first row of bricks is installed in a bonded (transverse) position along the length of the base.

This is the wrong suggestion. The solution has sufficient adhesion to the roofing material.

In addition, a layer of mortar will allow you to trim a number of bricks that are not always ideal sizes.

Vertical joints also need a bond, which is difficult to create without mortar.. The solution layer will lie as tightly as possible on the surface, which will allow you to distribute the load in an optimal way and avoid the appearance of weak “hanging” areas.

Finally, the presence of a solution will allow closing the reinforcing mesh, creating a solid and even base for brickwork.

Facing

Procedure:

  • Bricks are evenly laid out in stacks along the entire length of the tape in order to reduce the time for the delivery of material when laying.
  • The prepared solution is placed in a container that is convenient for moving along with the bricklayer.
  • All necessary tools are prepared (or purchased) - trowel, trowel, pick, ordering, etc.
  • Brick laying is carried out according to the planned scheme.

To obtain high-quality masonry, it is necessary to be careful and constantly monitor the process with a stretched cord.

How to get around corners

Bricklaying begins with the laying of corners. Usually they are raised in several rows (4-6), after which gaps are laid out.

First, the corners are laid without mortar in order to check the accuracy of right angles, determine the horizontal and other parameters (fitting calculation). After that, control cords are installed and the corners are laid out already using the solution.

All bricks in the corners must be tied together, the presence of two vertical seams above each other is not allowed.

It is important to check the uniformity of the diagonals of the base, which indicates the accuracy of the right angles of the structure.

The arrangement of the blind area

The blind area is a concrete casting, poured over the ground, adjacent to the outer wall of the tape or basement.

It has a width of up to 60 cm (or a little more than the overhang of the roof overhang). Usually formwork is installed, which is a series of vertically installed boards.

A reinforcing mesh is laid between the wall and the formwork, strengthening and protecting it from the formation of cracks.

A properly made blind area protects the sinuses of a backfilled trench from the penetration of rainwater or meltwater, eliminating the contact of the tape with moisture.

Final steps

After laying the top row of the plinth, the surface is covered with a final layer of mortar and carefully leveled.

When it dries , a layer of waterproofing is laid on the surface, the same as on the surface of the tape before laying bricks.

In addition, procedures are performed for the installation of the basement protective sheathing. Wherever necessary, air vents, technological openings for supplying communications, visors for moisture drainage, etc. are equipped.

Useful video

In this section, you can get acquainted with the brick base on a strip foundation, how to close the base, as well as blocks of expanded clay concrete:

Conclusion

Brick plinth is a common element in the design of the house.

It allows you to reduce the height of the tape, distribute the load from the external walls of the house and provides a reliable cut-off from moisture, preventing capillary absorption of water from soil layers or wet concrete.

When performing work, one should act strictly according to the rules, constantly monitor the position of the bricks, the horizontal and the correspondence of the length of the diagonals.

Compliance with the requirements of the technology will allow you to get a high-quality and durable brick base.

In contact with

The basement occupies an intermediate position between the foundation and the walls. It must protect them from moisture and withstand the load of the entire structure, furniture and equipment installed in the building. Last year, my friend and I did the necessary earthworks, laid the foundation for the future home. Now, in his free time, he lays out a brick plinth on the foundation.

Vadik, owner of the future cottage, economist. He is interested in all ways to reduce costs. When buying a site and designing, he decided to test his professional knowledge in practice. Having heard that it is cheaper to do it yourself, I decided to master the specialty of a laborer and replace training in the gym with useful physical labor.

Brick plinth on a strip foundation

It is better to choose burnt brick. He has technical indicators for various properties and, in particular, for stability, much higher

On the strip foundation, a support layer is made under the walls of different materials, from cast reinforced concrete to stone. Red brick for the base combines:

  • the required strength;
  • simplicity of brickwork;
  • low thermal conductivity;
  • budget cost.

With a little skill and patience, you can lay out the plinth with your own hands in a few days. To protect the walls from moisture, waterproofing is done during the construction of the basement. You can lubricate the surface of the foundation with heated bitumen in several layers. In time, this is a long time, since it is necessary to wait for the applied material to solidify and only then spread the next one on the surface.

It is better to use roofing material in 2 layers. The strips are cut along the width of the base, plus 4-5 centimeters. They are fastened with bituminous glue and fixed on the surface of the foundation. You can make the mixture with your own hands or use the finished one by buying it in the store. In heated bitumen, I added washed river sand. My friend mixed everything well.

Checking the dimensions and geometry of the foundation for the base

Before starting work, I decided to check the strip foundation. Time has passed since it was filled. He could shrink, washed away by rainwater. The unevenness of the base plane will entail the distortion of the entire house and the constant repair of walls and ceilings. Measurements are taken using a ruler, tape measure and cord.

  1. I measured the strip foundation with the help of a lath level along and across in several places. This is best done in the corners and every 2 meters of length. By placing a long device, it is easy to determine the presence of a slope. If you only have a corner level with short sides, put a plank underneath.
  2. On the foundation in the corners he laid a dry brick along the outer edge. Then, with the help of Vadik, I checked the diagonal. For a regular rectangle, the size of the cord from corner to corner is the same. If the length is different, then the corners are not straight. For a brick basement of a residential building, a difference in the length of the diagonals of up to 2 centimeters is permissible.
  3. Find the skew, and check the dimensions better with a tape measure. Measured at the corners. The foundation was poured without formwork. The outer walls are uneven. Brick simplifies measurements.

Having corrected the dimensions by shifting the corners, we checked the diagonals again with a cord. Then I marked the position of the brick base. Now, pulling the cord and fastening it to the pegs, he marked the outer side of the walls. It remains to lay out the plinth of bricks. I was sure of the correctness of the geometry of the frame of the house.

My friend smeared the strip foundation with glue from above with glue, laid layers of prepared roofing material, connected together with a bituminous mixture. The bottom waterproofing is ready. The walls will not get damp from moisture from the soil. Under the brick, on the waterproofing, I laid out a layer of cement mortar 2 cm thick. It will serve as a pillow and compensate for irregularities. For strength, I drowned a metal mesh with a 50 mm cell in it, cutting it slightly narrower in width than the base.

Brick laying pattern and plinth width

We started preparing a ditch for the strip foundation after the completion of the house project. Then I imagined exactly what the width of the brick base should be, based on the calculated loads. The weight of a two-story brick building is large. If the masonry is narrow - 250 mm, then the brick for the basement may not withstand. Cracks will form on the walls. Repair and strengthening of the house will cost more than construction.

What width to make the foundation is determined by the laying of the basement. Standard brick dimensions are 250x120x50 mm. The minimum size can be laid out by alternating rows with transverse laying in one row and longitudinal in two. Such a foundation is made for light houses made of wood, foam concrete, shell rock. Under walls made of wood and light material for cottages on 2 floors, laying one and a half bricks (380 mm) is suitable. Vadik plans 2 levels, a residential attic with insulation. It is better to use a wide masonry for a brick base in two rows (520 mm). House repairs will need to be done on this basis in 15 years.

Determining the size of the finished plinth in width is simple. To the dimensions of the brick is added 10 mm for each seam. I did row alternation:

  • two rows of bricks across the foundation;
  • the outer and inner rows are lengthwise, the middle is filled with artificial stones laid transversely.

Such a plinth guaranteed stability for a multi-storey building made of heavy building material. Repair of the basement exterior finish may be required after a few years.

The choice of materials for the plinth of ceramic bricks

When buying a brick, Vadik asked me which one to take and why. I advised him solid. With a temperature difference, especially in winter, condensation appears in the holes - dew. Moisture accumulates, is absorbed into the material and destroys the base. It will need renovation in a few years. A practicing economist, Vadik, was interested in a cheaper way to build a brick basement. I told him about the possibility of using used material. When dismantling buildings and demolishing partitions, if they make major repairs, they break walls. The brick is cleaned of the old mortar and tightly laid in the basement, choosing the less damaged one for the outer rows. In terms of strength, such a top foundation is inferior to that laid out from a new stone, with the correct geometry. Loads on it are made less. Do-it-yourself styling for a beginner is difficult. It is necessary to constantly check the level and select pieces of brick of the right size.

As a binder, I used cement mortar brand M-75. My friend did it in a concrete mixer. Loaded into it:

  • cement;
  • sand;
  • lime milk;
  • water was added after stirring.

The proportions depend on the brand of cement. For example: 0.8 liters of lime diluted in water to the state of milk is added to one bucket of Portland cement M500. Sand 7 buckets. Water is added for the first time in parts and its proportion in the mixture is determined. The solution should be kept on a trowel by a slide and not slide off an inclined plane.

Tip: Lime should not exceed 10% by volume in the dry mix. It is better to introduce it already slaked and dissolved in water - milk of lime. For builders without experience, working slowly, it is better to buy a ready-made mixture with plasticizers and additives that slow down the setting of the solution.

Ligation of bricks in the basement and waterproofing

Do-it-yourself brick masonry

On the waterproofing layer, my friend laid out a layer of concrete and pressed the mesh into it. Now I did the laying of the plinth. I need an assistant to prepare the solution. But Vadik wanted to try to do everything with his own hands. He asked me to choose a site simpler, on a flat line without corners. He carefully aligned the outer row along the stretched cord and then laid the rest of the brick tightly. After a couple of hours, I got used to doing everything myself. I fixed 2 boards at each corner close to the masonry. Now it remained to lay the brick, pressing against them. Carnations for the cord of the outer line were easily hammered into the tree. Such a device helps out when it is necessary to repair the corners and facade of the house.

Every 4 rows, now I, as an assistant, laid the mesh for strength. While the concrete mixer was running, I marked out openings for vents - holes for ventilation of the underground space of the house. I prepared the top layer of waterproofing, which was additionally laid under the masonry walls.

I advised Vadik to choose masonry with bandaging half the width of the brick. The outer layer alternated with transverse and longitudinal rows. Now when laying, the joints did not match. This made the base durable, and excluded repairs in the near future.

Protective and decorative finishing of the outer side of the plinth and blind area

Having finished laying the basement, we dug a ditch around the perimeter and poured a pillow under the blind area. Its width was determined by the size of the overhang of the roof, plus a strip for guaranteed rainwater runoff onto the concrete path. The slope from the building was 1.5 - 2 degrees. Otherwise, water will leak under the basement, destroy the foundation and have to make repairs, removing mold in the corner of the walls.

I made the final exterior finish with a decorative stone on a concrete mortar after the walls were erected.