Scheme of installation of pvc windows. Installation of plastic windows according to GOST - setfull ™ and basic installation system - seteco ™. The main mistakes when installing plastic windows

Currently, more and more people give their choice in favor of metal-plastic windows. Such double-glazed windows are equipped with ordinary apartments, and country houses, and chic country mansions. And quite often people install new windows with their own hands. Depending on the chosen method of installation and the skills of the installer, the process of installing one window will take from one and a half hours to half a day. The technology for installing windows is extremely simple and straightforward. It does not require the use of any complex tools. The main thing is to adhere to the installation order and comply with all the requirements dictated by the installation technology.

Necessary measurements before ordering plastic windows

Proper installation of new windows requires an accurate measurement of the window opening. In addition, it is important to know the features of installing windows in openings with a quarter. Such window openings are usually found in foam concrete buildings. They help to significantly reduce heat loss. The main difference is that a window with a length of 50 mm less than the length of the opening is installed in the opening without a quarter. 30 mm must be subtracted from the measured width. Leave gaps of 15 mm along the contour of the opening for foaming. In accordance with the current GOSTs, 20 mm must be left around the perimeter. From below, additionally leave 35 mm under the window sill.

If the installation of PVC windows will be carried out in a window opening with a quarter, measure at the narrowest point. When ordering, add 30 mm to the window width. The length does not need to be changed.

As a rule, the window is not installed in the center of the opening, but at a distance of about 1/3 deep from the outer plane. If the installation of PVC windows is done by hand, then the owner can move the structure in any direction convenient for him. Think over the offset in advance and take this parameter into account when ordering a low tide and a window sill.

To the width of the ebb and window sill determined in accordance with the location of the window, add 50 mm each. When calculating the width of the window sill, additionally take into account such an indicator as the location of the battery.

The window sill should cover the radiator halfway. Add 20 mm to insert the product under the base of the PVC window. The margin in length must be at least 80 mm. But it’s better not to save too much and add 150 mm so that in the future you can cut the window sill beautifully without any problems. Together with the ebb and window sill, you will be offered to order side plastic plugs. You don't need to give up on them.

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Which frame mounting method should I choose?

The installation of PVC windows does not depend on the chamber size of the double-glazed window, nor on the number of internal chambers in the profile. The order of installation of the product can change only taking into account the material of the walls and the size of the window. A suitable fastening and installation method for PVC windows is selected in accordance with the listed parameters. To fix the window structure, you can use:

  1. Dowels or anchors that cut into walls through existing or pre-prepared through holes in the profile.
  2. toothed plates. They are pressed into profile. They are fastened against the wall and fixed with screws.

Practice shows that the first option is the most reliable. It is most often used when installing heavy and large windows. In the case of through fastening, the window will normally withstand multiple shock loads that inevitably occur when turning and tilting window sashes. In addition, with the help of anchors, the installer gets the opportunity to adjust the horizontal and vertical of the product to be installed as accurately as possible.

Those who install windows with blank double-glazed windows, i.e. without hinged and flaps, more interested in installation using anchor plates. These products are hidden under the slopes, so they will not spoil the appearance. If the walls of the house are made of brick or concrete, then it is recommended to prepare small recesses for the plates. They will eliminate the need to apply a leveling layer before the slope device.

Sometimes both methods are used in combination. Through the lower profile and the side parts of the frame, anchors are deepened into the walls, and plates are used to fix the structure. If the windows are installed in a building made of wood, it is better to refuse the use of plates, because. they loosen after a short time. In this case, galvanized screws are more preferable.

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What you need to know the owner of a wooden house?

The process of installing PVC windows is very dependent on the material of the walls. In the case of brick and foam concrete structures, the differences come down only to the depth of the anchors. With openings from a bar and a log house, everything is a little more complicated.

If the walls of the house are made of wood, you need to remember a number of important rules. Firstly, it is recommended to start installing PVC windows in a wooden house no earlier than a year, and even better, 2 years after the completion of the construction of the house. This requirement is dictated by the fact that during this time the material shrinks. Glued laminated timber is characterized by the smallest value and period of shrinkage. Secondly, windows are not installed directly into the opening. The product can only be mounted in a wooden box. It will protect the PVC window from deformation. The block must not have any defects, signs of damage by insects and rot, etc. Before starting any work, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.

After 1-2 years, shrinkage does not stop completely, but is no longer so strong. After the installation of PVC windows and the completion of finishing work, it will also take place. That is why at the top between the box and the opening you need to leave a gap of 30-70 mm. The size of this gap is selected taking into account the type and moisture content of building materials. After installation is completed, this gap must be filled with jute and closed with platbands.

Building codes do not establish any clear recommendations regarding materials for window sills and sills. As a rule, standard ebbs are used, which come with a PVC window. The window sill can be made of wood or polymer. The lower profile can be supported directly on a wooden window sill, i.e. you can, if desired, install this product before installing the window. Or you can not get rid of the old window sill, if it is normally preserved.

Experienced builders give a very useful recommendation, which is not in the regulatory documents, but it will be useful to anyone who decides to install PVC windows on their own. The wood is permeable. If no action is taken in this regard, these evaporations will gradually degrade the properties of the foam. And to prevent the foam from moistening, a polyethylene foam foil tape should be pasted along the line of its application.

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Preparing the opening and window for installation

Before proceeding with further work, prepare the tools for installing PVC windows. You will need the following:

  1. Screwdriver.
  2. Foam gun and directly foam.
  3. Level.
  4. Electric jigsaw.
  5. Perforator.
  6. A set of hex keys.
  7. Pencil.
  8. Yardstick.
  9. Stationery knife.

After you dismantle the old window, carefully clean the opening of paint and debris. If the walls of your house are made of wood, you will have to additionally cut off the top layer if the new window is mounted in a box that has already served for some time. This pre-treatment provides a stronger adhesion of the foam to the top layer.

Builders recommend using foam to fill the gap only if the gap between the opening and the frame does not exceed 40 mm in size. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with foam, drywall and other available materials. For example, in a house made of timber, you can use segments of the same timber.

First you need to remove the sash from the frame. To do this, pull the pin out of the top loop. You can carefully pry it off with a screwdriver or pliers. After that, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. If the window is deaf, you need to remove the double-glazed window from it. First, the longitudinal glazing beads are taken, after them - the transverse ones. Beads are easily removed with a spatula or a wide knife. It is enough to insert an auxiliary tool into the gap and begin to gradually shift it. Be careful not to damage the glass.

If the window is small, you can insert it using mounting plates without having to first remove the double-glazed windows or sashes. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the factory design, then it is better not to do this. Take a sash or double-glazed window and lean the product against the wall at a slight angle, placing it on a flat horizontal surface, previously covered with thick cardboard or some kind of soft material.

In no case do not lay double-glazed windows and sashes flat. It is also forbidden to put them skewed. Even because of the smallest pebble under the base, a crack may appear in the product. Remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. It is better to do it right away, because. in the future, this process will require much more effort.

Mark the places for installing fasteners. Builders recommend installing fasteners in increments of 40 cm. In accordance with the current state standards, the step should not exceed 70 cm. The standard indents from the impost and corners are 15 cm. If you install a PVC window using plates, attach them to the frame in advance. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Prepare holes for long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts. Use a metal drill for this. Drill from the outside of the frame.

Most instructions indicate that before starting installation, you need to fix it with PSUL protective tape. However, practice shows that it is quite inconvenient to glue it before installation. Therefore, you can do this after the installation is completed, nothing terrible will happen because of this.

Due to their durability, ease of use, and relatively easy installation, plastic windows are considered the most popular today. Professionals, on average, spend no more than 1.5 hours on installing plastic windows. But the price of their virtuosity is not so cheap.

Plastic windows are modern and comfortable translucent systems that keep the room warm in the cold season or allow you to choose the optimal ventilation mode in hot weather.

Most people are looking for ways to save money, because repairing an apartment is already expensive, so if you have free time, you can do the installation yourself. To do this, you just need to carefully study the technology and the rules for their installation. Moreover, we can confidently say that if you make one window, then a skill will appear and, accordingly, subsequent glazing of openings will be made much faster and better.

Before starting work, you should know that the installation of plastic structures can be done in two different ways, each of them has its own characteristics.

Unpacking installation method

unpacking method. It consists in the fact that the window is disassembled before installation.

This method includes preliminary disassembly of the window. To do this, the glazing beads are removed, the double-glazed windows are removed from the frame and, for the duration of the installation, are set aside. After, the frame is attached to the surface with anchors or dowels. Then all the components of the window are put in place. It should be noted that with such an installation, fogging of the window may occur in the future and, during the dismantling of the components, chips and cracks may appear, which will ultimately affect the appearance. However, such a method is sometimes simply necessary. In the event that the apartment where the windows are installed is located on high floors and the opening is large (more than 2 by 2 m), then this option is preferable, since the windows there are more exposed to gusts of wind and environmental aggression. This is the most reliable way. Additional strength can be achieved by attaching the frame not with dowels, but with long anchors.

Installation without unpacking

The method without unpacking is that before installing a double-glazed window, it does not need to be disassembled.

This method differs from the first one in that in this case, the removal of glazing beads and double-glazed windows does not occur, since the frame is not attached directly to the opening through, but is installed using pre-prepared fasteners on the outer side of the surface of the frame itself. Usually in private homes this is the most common technology. This method has practically no disadvantages and is used more often than the first, of course, if the above nuances are not available. In other words, the correct choice of method will be prompted by such factors: the type of construction of the building, the size of the opening, the number of storeys, and wind loads on the window. In addition, if there are sliding sashes in the window being installed, which, with constant use, will carry an impact load on the entire structure, then this installation method is best not to use.

Related article: How to independently adjust the plastic balcony door

Fundamental rules

Scheme of a plastic window: 1 - Frame; 2 - sash; 3 - Double-glazed window; 4 - Drainage; 5 - Stand profile; 6 - Window sill; 7 - Connecting profile; 8 - Slope panel

It should be noted that if you violate the installation rules, then exposure to moisture on the seams, direct sunlight and sudden changes in temperature will lead to their destruction and, as a result, to the loss of sound and heat insulation properties. Accordingly, in this case, the owner of the apartment will be disappointed: instead of the expected heat and sound insulation, he will get an even colder room than the one that was before the installation of a new window.

It's no secret that hired installers also often make gross mistakes, so if there is no reliable construction company nearby or the budget does not allow hiring expensive specialists, then in this case installing plastic windows on your own will be the best and most reliable option, because windows installed with love, will last a long time. To do this, you need to study the rules and sequence of the entire installation process.

The sequence of installation work

PVC window frames are securely installed in the window opening using side anchors or fixing plates.

  1. preparation of the premises for repair work (furniture should be covered with a protective film, floor coverings should be removed, space should be free at a distance of 2 m from the opening);
  2. dismantling;
  3. opening preparation: it must be cleaned of dust, dirt, it should not have protrusions of more than 1 cm, all deep cracks must be sealed with dense insulation material;
  4. preparing a new window for installation;
  5. marking the frame where the fasteners will be located, as well as making holes in these places;
  6. making holes for fasteners;
  7. setting the window according to the level;
  8. direct window installation;
  9. sealing cracks with mounting foam;
  10. tide installation;
  11. window sill installation;
  12. final adjustment of fittings and installation of handles.

Step by step description

Installation of windows must be carried out during the day and experts do not recommend postponing it until tomorrow. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to have at hand all the necessary set of tools that you need to take care of in advance. By the way, having bought it once, such tools will come in handy in the house more than once.

Bulgarian - a universal tool, otherwise called an angle grinder (angle grinder), is used to level surfaces, remove a layer of paint or rust.

Required set of tools:

  • jigsaw;
  • construction knife;
  • a hammer;
  • Bulgarian;
  • level;
  • foam gun;
  • screwdriver;
  • roulette;
  • pencil;
  • set of hexagons;
  • silicone gun;
  • perforator.

Material:

  • plastic window;
  • mounting foam;
  • self-tapping screws for metal (4 mm) and dowels;
  • fasteners (anchor plates);
  • low tide;
  • white silicone.

Related article: How to fix drywall to the wall

Installation process and procedure

The shutters are removed from the window. Remove window frames. If necessary, dismantle (knock down) slopes.

So, the room is prepared for repair work and after that the installation process itself begins directly. Of course, you first need to dismantle the old frames. For this, the glasses are removed, cuts are made in the old frame with a grinder and the frame itself is removed in parts with a perforator. Instead of a puncher, you can use a crowbar. If there is a wooden window sill, then it is dismantled by a similar method. The concrete window sill is easy to remove with a conventional hammer. After dismantling, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust.

The next step is to prepare for installation. At this stage, it is important to know that if the window is not deaf, then all mechanisms should be closed. Otherwise, when sealing the gaps between the frame and the opening with foam, the profile can lead in such a way that it will be arched. The rules for installing plastic windows state that the protective film should only be removed when the finishing work is completed; handles should not be installed, as this may result in an inadvertent opening of the window. Also, after the openings are filled with foam, the window must be kept closed for at least 12 hours.

The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed to anchor bolts or mounting plates.

Fasteners must be placed on all sides of the frame, so the markings should be done around the entire perimeter of the window in increments of 70 cm. The indent from the extreme fasteners should be at least 10-15 cm. After the markings are made, fasteners are screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws (anchor plates) so that the screw goes deep into the profile and reaches the metal (curved channel), which is inside the structure. Then the window is substituted for the opening, and marks are made directly on it. Further, on these marks, where the fasteners will be installed, recesses are made for them.

After that, the window should be leveled. To facilitate this process, you can use wooden bars, which must be placed under the transverse parts of the structure in the following sequence: first two lower ones, then two upper ones. As a result, the window frame should be perfectly aligned both horizontally and vertically. You can check the correct installation using the building level. After making sure that the frame is level, you can proceed directly to the mount. This is done with dowels.

The ebbs perform not only a decorative role, but also have waterproofing properties, so at this stage it is necessary to install this element. To prevent further water from entering the junction of the ebb with the frame, it is best to install it under the window. If this is not possible, then it should be attached directly to the window frame (metal screws are excellent for this). Not all installed windows face the street, so if, for example, it is combined with a kitchen or a balcony, then window sills are used instead of low tide.

Before moving on to issues directly related to the installation of windows, it is necessary to clearly define what regulatory documents regulate the performance of these types of work.

The following documents contain the most detailed description of the work on installing windows and the requirements for them:

At the end of the normative part, the following should be noted. The listed regulatory documents, like most others that are not directly related to safety, are valid, but not mandatory. Nevertheless, following the rules of GOST when installing window structures with your own hands, or when purchasing with installation, will allow you to achieve the quality of the work performed.

GOST 30971-2012 describes in sufficient detail the requirements for the installation and filling of joints, the size of window openings and gaps for installation, as well as the types of fastening structures. In addition, the general requirements for the performance of work, the preparation of the necessary documentation and the minimum warranty obligations are given.

DIY installation instructions

measurements

Measures the width and height of an existing window opening. The dimensions of the window are defined as follows:

  • The width is equal to the measured width of the opening minus twice the width of the mounting gap;
  • The height is calculated in the same way. The minimum gap width according to GOST is 20 mm. In calculations, 25-30 mm is usually taken.

Quite often, in brick houses, a window opening is arranged using an outer quarter. In this case, the outer part is measured.

  • The width is equal to the width obtained between the quarters plus the size of the frame factory per quarter (according to GOST - from 25 to 40 mm.);
  • The height is equal to the measured distance from the low tide to the upper quarter with the addition of the size of the plant to the upper quarter (according to GOST, also from 25 to 40 mm.)

Mounting method (according to GOST)

  • Directly through the frame in the plane in which the installation is carried out. The most commonly used option, which requires preliminary dismantling of double-glazed windows from blind sashes and prefabricated swing sashes.

  • With the use of fittings built into the frame in the manufacture. The design is assembled entirely, which requires skills and qualifications due to the considerable mass.

Preparing for installation

After the manufacture and delivery of window structures, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, namely:

  • clear a place in front of the window;
  • remove furniture;
  • cover walls, floors and all accessible structures with a film or thick cloth;

  • if necessary, dismantle the sashes from the frame (when installing through the frame);
  • fill (preferably, a day before installation) with heat-insulating foam the inner cavity of the support profile. This process, not mentioned in GOST and often not performed by builders, is carried out to prevent the occurrence of a cold bridge in the place where the profile is attached to the frame.

Installation of a PVC profile window

  • Lay wooden blocks or plastic substrates from below on the end of the window opening.
  • Install the frame or the entire prefabricated structure on them (depending on the type of fastening). Supports remain an integral part of the structure for its greater reliability and stability.

  • Pegs are driven in from the top side between the window and the wall. They fix the frame from the sides.
  • Then it is necessary to check the horizontalness of the structure. If required, perform the necessary alignment by adding substrates.
  • Check the verticality of the structure, make adjustments if necessary.
  • Attach the frame using one of two options:
    • having drilled mounting holes in the wall through the holes prepared in the frame in advance, with a puncher, followed by inserting and fixing the anchors. It must be remembered that you first need to drill the bottom holes, securing the bottom of the structure; then drill and bait the middle and upper part of the mount. At the end, check the structure for verticality and horizontality and finally fix it;
    • having bent the fastening ears for the tightest possible fit to the wall, drill an anchor hole in the wall and fix the anchor. Start also from the bottom of the fastening structures, then move up. If possible, it is required to check the correct position of the window structures as often as possible.

Drain installation

Usually, there is a groove on the outside of the window structure for installing a drainage system. According to the requirements of GOST, it must be necessarily foamed during installation; it is also possible to additionally fasten it with screws to create greater structural reliability.

Checking and assembling the window

After the installation of anchor fasteners and draining is completed, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical installation once again. Then you need to assemble the structures (if necessary), which is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, with the installation of all fittings, handles, limiters, etc.

Gap filling

The process takes place with tightly closed doors and is almost always carried out with polyurethane mounting foam. It should be remembered that foamed polyurethane foam is a proven material and has a long history of use, however, it also has certain disadvantages. In particular, it is not sufficiently resistant to exposure to open ultraviolet radiation and the external environment.

Therefore, in order to avoid the possible gradual destruction of the insulation and the subsequent freezing and fogging of windows, GOST prescribes the mandatory isolation of the seam from all sides. For this you need:

  • from the inside, stick on the perimeter of the window (on the sides and top) a waterproofing self-adhesive tape that is vapor-tight and is used specifically for plastic windows. A foil strip is glued from below, which will subsequently be under the window sill;
  • on the outside, a membrane moisture-resistant and vapor-permeable adhesive strip (PSUL) capable of releasing steam to the outside should also be glued around the perimeter.


The mentioned materials are offered in a sufficient range on the building materials market. Their use will practically not increase the cost of work, but significantly improve their quality, as well as the service life of the mounted structure.


The gap is directly filled onto the pre-moistened surface from the inside after the self-adhesive strips are bent. For application, a conventional gun and foam intended for year-round use are used. GOST allows the use of ordinary foam, but such windows can be used at temperatures up to -30 degrees. Naturally, in almost all regions of Russia, windows with such seam insulation cannot be used.

Window sill installation

A fairly simple process, which consists in fitting (if necessary, trimming) the window sill so that it fits exactly under the window frame with an emphasis on the lining profile. GOST provides for its entry into the walls - from 50 to 100 mm. Then, the level at which it should be is attached with pegs, and the cavity under it is sealed with mortar or mounting foam.

Anton Tsugunov

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By investing a lot of money in the installation of plastic windows, people expect to seriously increase the comfort level of their apartment. They carefully study the model range, compare the advantages of profiles used in various designs. But all the advantages of PVC windows can be crossed out by mistakes made during their installation. Most of the claims against companies that install PVC windows are made specifically to the quality of the work of the installers. Plastic windows will last a long time and will not lose their qualities if the installers are guided during installation on GOST, and not on purely personal considerations.

What document regulates the process of installing plastic windows?

In March 2003, GOST 30971–2002 was developed and adopted, which ensured the formalization of installation work. The adoption of this document was facilitated by the state program to increase energy efficiency and energy saving.

But not all companies in their work are guided by the provisions of this document. The high requirements imposed by GOST 30971–2002 increase the costs of firms operating in the PVC window market. Therefore, small companies often ignore its provisions, saving on the quality of services provided. This is facilitated by the low professional level of employees of such enterprises.

To the average layman, familiarity with this document will bring tangible benefits. Knowing the rules for installing PVC windows, he will be able to control the entire installation process, and after its completion he will be able to receive detailed technical documentation on the work performed and full warranty service.

What documents are issued during installation?

The owner of new PVC windows should have two documents on hand, one of them - before installation, the other - after the completion of work on replacing window blocks.

  1. A contract is drawn up in advance, which must contain the necessary calculations for the thermophysical properties of the window installed in a specific wall opening. Based on them, the best installation scheme is selected, which is agreed with the customer.
  2. After the installation of plastic windows is completed, the technical passport of the installation with the installation scheme is handed over to the customer. It should also list the materials used to seal the field joints and the contractor's warranty obligations.

Room preparation

The process of replacing window blocks is accompanied by the release of a large amount of dust. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to free the room as much as possible from furniture and household appliances. What cannot be taken out, as well as the walls and floor, must be covered with film or newspapers to prevent contamination.

Tip: you can use an old bedspread as a kind of screen by pulling it wet at a distance of two to three meters from the window opening. It will take on a significant proportion of the dust, and later it can simply be thrown away.

Preparation of window openings

Before installing plastic windows, it is necessary to remove the old frames from the wall opening. To do this, installers use a puncher, an electric jigsaw and a crowbar. GOST 30971–2002 requires the contractor to pre-prepare openings for window blocks: fully clean the surface and eliminate existing defects. Also, GOST requires the presence of false quarters at the openings into which plastic windows are installed. They are necessary for the formation of a three-layer assembly seam.

Reference: quarters are protrusions designed to protect the seams from external adverse effects. In their absence, so-called false quarters are created, usually made from metal or plastic corners.

Three layers of mounting seam when installing PVC windows

Regardless of the materials chosen by the installers of plastic window units, the rule is that any installation seam must contain three layers.

  • The outer layer must protect the rest of the joint materials from moisture. At the same time, it must allow air to pass through to ventilate the insulation. In most cases, pre-compressed sealing tapes (PSUL) are used to form this layer. Before mounting the window frame in the opening, it is pasted over with these tapes. In the future, they expand and close all the gaps between the box and the wall opening. PSUL are ideal for installation work in new homes, where the geometry of the wall openings is not broken. But if the slopes are uneven or plastered, then certain problems may arise when using such a protective material. According to GOST 30971–2002, when installing PVC window blocks, it is allowed to use various types of sealants, for example, silicone.

Important! The sealant must not be applied directly to the mounting foam and must cover only two sides of the joint.

  • The middle layer provides thermal insulation. To fill it, polyurethane foam is used, which is selected based on the climate of the area. It is necessary to fill the seam with it in such a way that later you do not have to cut off the excess from the side of the street: such manipulations make it easier for moisture to enter this layer. If there is a need to apply several layers of foam, then the time interval between the formation of each of them should be maintained in accordance with the rules defined by GOST.
  • The inner layer protects the insulation from moisture from the room. It consists of vapor barrier tapes. It is necessary to follow the correct calculation of the overlap of such a tape, which should be at least half the width of the material. Wrinkling should also be avoided when laying the tape. Most often, installers use tape with a protective coating applied on the inside, but if window openings are plastered, then it is better to choose tape with an external coating.

How should the window block be attached

When installing the window block, it is necessary to ensure a sufficient gap between the window profile and the wall opening. The gap will not only allow high-quality work on filling the joints, but also compensates for possible changes in the geometry of the window caused by temperature fluctuations.

There are rules for the location of fasteners:

  • for white PVC window boxes, the maximum distance between them is no more than 700 mm;
  • if the window box is colored, then this distance is reduced to 600 mm;
  • fastening elements must be located at a distance of at least 150 mm from corners and joints;
  • wooden blocks used for pre-fixing the window must be pre-treated with antiseptic materials, their height must be at least 20 mm;
  • in most cases, window frames are fastened with dowels and anchors, which are driven into the wall to a depth of 40 mm.

Important! All fasteners must have an anti-corrosion coating, usually stainless or chrome steel.

What else should the contractor do after installing the window

Not knowing the GOST standards, many customers believe that the contractor's duties end after the installation of the window unit is completed. And companies that install PVC windows take advantage of this, making their work easier. In fact, the contractor is required to additionally perform the following actions:

  • Check the operation of the window sashes, if necessary, adjust them and eliminate possible distortions.
  • Check the operation of all fittings installed on the window.
  • Remove protective film.
  • Collect and take out the debris generated during the removal of old window frames and the installation of a plastic window block.

The importance of proper window installation

Proper installation of a plastic window will avoid the typical problems that arise from improper installation. These include:

  • Insufficient thermal insulation of the structure, the formation of so-called cold bridges.
  • The appearance of mold and fungus due to poor waterproofing or insufficient vapor permeability of the installation seam.

How is the installation of plastic windows; what nuances should be paid attention to during measurements and installation; common errors, as well as ways to identify them - we will consider these and other topical issues in this article.

Why are there so many problems with plastic windows?

Many people think that PVC windows are only as good as the quality they are installed. In many ways, this is true. The fact is that the manufacture of plastic windows is carried out using automated systems, and calculations and design are carried out on computers using specialized software. That is why marriage during the assembly of translucent PVC structures is extremely rare, and the notorious “human factor” becomes the cornerstone. It should be noted that in addition to high-quality installation, it is very important to correctly choose a window system that is optimally suited for certain conditions. And yet, an incorrectly measured window simply cannot be properly installed.

The consequences of poor installation

Opening preparation

When installing windows, you always have to devote some time to preparing and restoring the opening. This problem is especially relevant when replacing window blocks in old buildings due to extensive damage to dilapidated structures. In a good way, for its qualitative solution it takes two or three days, which is simply impossible in residential premises. Quick-hardening cement-based compounds, polyurethane foam in combination with sheet insulation come to the rescue.

After dismantling the old window, the opening must be freed from moving, crumbling particles, protruding elements of the old internal slopes. All surfaces are cleaned of dust, dirt, oil stains. Loose areas should be fixed by puttying with a waterproof binder.

Large voids formed during the replacement of window blocks, for example, between rows of facing and supporting brickwork, are sealed with dense heaters, all through holes are foamed.

In addition, it is necessary to remove the influx of the solution, close up the shells and chips on the inner surfaces of the quarter, exceeding 10 mm in height. Such attention to this section of the opening is due to the fact that a hermetic tape seal will be placed here.

Installation of plastic windows

Setting and temporary fixation of window blocks

Windows can be installed in a pre-prepared opening both as an assembly and with removed sashes and double-glazed windows. In any case, the window block must have an installation profile designed for mounting the window sill and the ebb.

With the help of a level or a plumb line, the windows are set in compliance with the necessary mounting clearances within the tolerances - up to 1.5 mm per meter, but not more than 3 mm for the entire length of the product. The difference between the diagonals of the window should not exceed 8 mm. If the opening does not have a quarter that limits the location of the window block, then it is recommended to install the product at a certain distance from its outer edge - at least 1/3 of the thickness of the bearing wall. If the wall is heterogeneous, with insulation - in the zone of the insulation layer.

With the help of plastic mounting wedges, the window is fixed in the opening. Such wedges are installed in pairs in the corners of the window unit, the thickness is adjusted by moving them relative to each other by several interlocking teeth. The prefabricated plastic block has an air chamber, therefore it is not a cold bridge, like a homemade wooden block, and besides, it does not deform with changes in temperature and humidity. The recommended wedge width is 100-120 mm. All mounting pads after fixing the window with fasteners are removed, except for the lower support wedges. It is they who transfer the load to the supporting base, and not the lower mounting seam.

Attention! If the window has a vertical central bulkhead - impost, then the support wedges should be placed directly below it.

Fixing PVC windows

Depending on the design and density of the wall materials, the weight and dimensions of the product, the strength of wind loads, the size of the mounting gaps, the optimal type and number of fasteners are selected. To fasten windows to openings, plastic or metal anchor dowels, construction screws or mounting plates are used.

Polymer dowels are used for walls made of low-strength materials - lightweight concrete, hollow bricks, wood, and also to avoid contact corrosion in aggressive environments. Plastic frame dowels provide good thermal insulation of the connected elements.

Windows are fixed with self-tapping screws to wooden bases - draft frames, embedded elements, wooden frame racks.

Flexible anchor plates are used for multilayer wall construction, if there is a heater in the area of ​​​​the window block, and the attachment point must be moved outside it.

Metal expansion plugs provide excellent resistance to shear loads occurring in hard mineral substrates such as concrete, solid brick, natural stone.

The length of the fasteners is selected in such a way that the expansion element of the anchor is immersed in the base by at least 40 mm. The diameter of the dowels must not be less than 8 mm.

Fasteners are necessarily located in the range of 150-180 mm from the inner corner of the window block and 120-180 mm on both sides of the impost. If there is no impost connection, then one dowel should be located along the line of the sash porch of the two wings. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed 700 mm for white windows and 600 mm for tinted windows, so an anchor is almost always placed in the middle of the window side profile.

In predetermined places, through holes are drilled in the window frame, so that the heads of the dowels and locking screws are buried in the window profile seam and can be closed with decorative plugs or caps. Depending on the characteristics of the materials of the walls, the anchor holes in them are drilled or drilled with a hammer drill in a mixed mode - drilling with impact.

Attention! The depth of drilling holes in the walls must be at least 10 mm greater than the length of the part of the anchor going into the base.

Flexible anchor plates are attached to the windows before they are installed in the installation opening. To do this, they are snapped into the grooves outside the plastic profile and screwed to it with screws with a drill, the diameter of which must be at least 5 mm and at least 40 mm long. After fixing the window in the opening, the plates are bent and are attached to the wall with the help of plastic expansion dowels with a diameter of 6 mm.

Attention! Each plate should have two attachment points.

Gap filling technology

According to the current GOSTs, when installing plastic windows, a three-layer system of assembly seams should be used. This design was based on a rather simple idea, once implemented by German specialists. The main component of the mounting gap is the central layer in the form of mounting foam, which performs a sound and heat insulating function and must remain dry under any circumstances for correct operation. The inner layer protects the insulation from the penetration of moisture from inside the room, in other words, it is a vapor barrier. For this, self-adhesive tapes or vapor-tight mastic sealants are used. The outer layer is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (PSUL) that lets moisture out of the foam insulation, but is waterproof from the outside.

The device of a complex seam begins with the installation of PSUL on a quarter of the opening, 3-5 millimeters from its edge. Thus, a front mounting gap is formed, the size of which is regulated by the working thickness of the sealing tape, compressed by at least 25% - in practice, this is about 3 to 20 mm. In some cases, for example, if a quarter of a brick has a joint or other minor irregularities, the tape is glued directly to the window profile.

Attention! The current GOST 2007 in article 5.1.9. allows the sealing of the outer layer with plaster compositions, while even the previous standard forbade this, allowing the use of only profile details: flashings, false quarters, ebbs.

Note that the use of ebb is a prerequisite for ensuring reliable protection of the assembly seam from atmospheric moisture. The ebb should extend 30-40 mm beyond the cladding of the outer walls; noise-absorbing linings can be installed under it.

Further, after the final fixing of the window in the opening with the help of anchors or flexible plates, the mounting seam is filled with a layer of foam. Foaming is carried out with a fully assembled window block. Please note that expansion gaskets must be installed between the double-glazed window and the profile.

As we have already said, the central layer, depending on the dimensions and features of the windows, can vary from 15 to 40 millimeters. Foam sealant should be applied in a continuous uniform layer, without the formation of voids, gaps, cracks. That is why, with a large width of the window profile, or if the width of the mounting gap significantly exceeds the standard one, polyurethane foam is applied in stages, observing technological breaks for drying the layers. It is recommended that before starting to fill the joint, a test foaming of a small area is performed to determine the degree of expansion of the polyurethane sealant. The foam should not go beyond the outer plane of the window profile.

Attention! Cutting off excess foam material makes the center layer too hygroscopic, so this operation is performed only in extreme cases and only from the inside surface of the assembly seam.

A vapor barrier tape is glued on top of the dried foam insulation with an approach to the opening or mastic is applied. An important stage in the construction of the inner layer of the mounting joint can be considered the treatment of mating elements of the window system, such as slope lining, window sill, as well as the junctions of individual window blocks with each other and with stand, rotary, expansion profiles, with silicone or acrylic sealants.

At the end of the installation of windows, the protective film must be removed from the frames and sashes.

The main mistakes when installing plastic windows

The first thing you should pay attention to is the deviations of the parts of the installed window unit from vertical and horizontal lines. Recall that modern standards allow installation inaccuracies of up to 1.5 mm per linear meter or 3 mm for the entire product. The vertical, perhaps, is best checked with the help of a plumb line and tape measure fixed near the window, measuring the distance from the thread stretched under the weight of the cone to the window profile. When using this method, the dimensions of the product do not matter, because we have the opportunity to take measurements along the entire length of the profile. The horizontality of parts can be checked by placing control marks on vertical window profiles, including imposts, using a hydraulic level and subsequent measurements of the distance from them to the edges of the product. Note that only expensive rack levels allow more or less qualitative study of deviations, but in most cases their length is clearly not enough to understand the overall picture.

If there are deviations only vertical or only horizontal, then this means that the box is skewed and does not have right angles. The length of the diagonals is checked with a tape measure - the maximum allowable difference can be 8 mm.

Next, you should check the window for deformations of window profiles. For these purposes, a cord is pulled along the lines of the outer edges of window profiles, from corner to corner - deviations are determined visually. A very common problem is the curvature of the middle of the side profiles towards the center of the window. This occurs when installation is carried out on flexible anchor plates that are not able to withstand the pressure of expanding foam, or if there are no spacers between the double-glazed window and the profile. The deflection of horizontal profiles occurs for the same reasons.

It is very important to control the correctness of the choice and technology of using a certain type of fasteners. Very often, installers unreasonably prefer to use anchor plates for all occasions, since it is much easier to expose the product with their help, in addition, they do not need to remove the sashes and remove the double-glazed windows. The most serious approach should be taken to fulfill the requirements regarding the number and location of fasteners.

The absence of support blocks under the installation profile (most often under a vertical impost) or the use of home-made wooden wedges instead. As a rule, this error is paired with a more serious one - too small or zero mounting clearance at the bottom of the window.

Violation of the technology of installation joints is mainly in too small sizes of gaps, discontinuity of insulating layers or their absence. The most common mistake can be considered overflows of foam material, which entail deformation of the profiles and the need to cut off excess sealant.

A related problem causes blowing through of the joints of the elements of the window system - the window sill, slope lining, connecting, expansion, rotary profiles. This is a banal lack of sealing their joints with self-expanding tapes or acrylic, silicone.

Often, installers incorrectly mount connected window units, for example, on glazed balconies. The windows are not located in the same plane - "book". Checking this is quite simple, you should pull the cord in front of the front line of the window, from corner to corner, and take measurements with a tape measure.

It is also not uncommon to place adjacent windows in more than one horizontal line, or without linking to the geometry of the facade. For example, this is very important on a bay window, panoramic glazing, where one complex window sill can be used with several window blocks. And again, the water level will come to the rescue, making it possible to put mutually located horizontal marks at a sufficient distance.

Problems arising from errors in the assembly of PVC windows, and ways to solve them, we will definitely consider in the following articles.

How to avoid poor-quality installation of plastic windows?

  1. Use the services of a large company, it is better if it is a manufacturer of window systems, and not an intermediary.
  2. Study in detail the technology of installing PVC windows. No wonder they say: "Aware - it means armed."
  3. Prepare an area for storing materials. Free up space near window openings as much as possible, cover furniture and household appliances with polyethylene, isolate the rest of the premises, and fence off the working area on the street.
  4. Discuss with the measurer all the technological nuances, be constantly present during installation - do not forget about the large number of hidden works.
  5. Before and after installing the windows, check the integrity of the profiles and double-glazed windows, the performance of the fittings.
  6. Do not sign the act of acceptance of new windows until you check the quality of their installation.
  7. If you later still find problems - blowing, mashing, then feel free to contact the contractor with the requirement to fix the problem. In the vast majority of cases, all problems are quickly resolved by the manufacturer.