This time we will talk about one of the most technologically advanced and easy-to-install types of bases for buildings with low weight. We will tell you what are the advantages of the TISE foundation over other types, where its use is most relevant, and most importantly, how to do the work yourself.
What is TISE and what is its feature
The TISE foundation is a part of the complex that allows you to create a solid and reliable foundation for the subsequent construction of a building with small masonry elements up to three floors high. At the same time, the emphasis in the construction of such a foundation is placed on manual labor without the use of mechanization.
Structurally, the foundation is similar to a pile foundation, but has a shallower depth due to expanders at the base of each pillar. Thanks to the hydrophobic shell of concrete piles, their saturation with moisture is excluded, that is, when heaving, the soil cannot tear the concrete - it simply does not freeze to it.
1 - waterproofing; 2 - fittings; 3 - concrete M350
With a narrow part diameter of 200 mm, a B25 class sand concrete post will provide guaranteed strength with a load of up to 40 tons. This is more than enough, given the area of the pile base of 0.8 m 2, which allows you to reliably rest on a pole of 4-5 tons even when building a foundation in weak and wet loam.
The use of TISE and the myth of basement floors
Of course, the TISE foundation is not a panacea at all, but this technology can rightly be called the least expensive for construction in conditions where nothing can be built without a reinforced foundation. Unfavorable conditions include heaving and water-saturated soils, regions with a freezing depth of more than one and a half meters and areas close to water bodies.
TISE, however, is practically useless on quicksand and in rocky ground. But it is indispensable for the rapid construction of small outbuildings and frame-type country houses. Due to their low weight, such buildings do not require a high bearing capacity from the foundation.
There is an opinion that columnar foundations exclude the possibility of building a basement or basement under the house. In the standard view, it may be so, but after all, both columnar foundations and TISE, as their particular variety, are often used to stabilize slab foundations and increase the bearing capacity of the basement due to additional support on deeper, and, therefore, denser soil layers .
Both the heads of the pillars and the grillage (slab) are located at the bottom of the common pit below the freezing depth. Such a foundation will be optimal for buildings on monolithic reinforced concrete frames, characterized by significant weight.
Drilling wells with an earthen plow TISE-F
A piling drill is a product that requires knowledge and understanding of the mechanics of the processes that contribute to excavation in order to be used correctly.
The hole itself can be done by almost anyone, including a motorized drill with a diameter of at least 250 mm. For these tasks, TISE-F has two inclined cutting edges, in the lower part of which there are a pair of teeth loosening the soil. Both cutting edges are located inside a 200 mm high ring hopper, which facilitates the rapid removal of loosened mass.
Drilling begins with digging out pits for easier drilling into the ground. With a slight vertical pressure, the drill rotates clockwise, after 2-3 full turns it is removed and cleaned from the ground. On average, drilling a two-meter well takes 2.5 hours for one person, and about 40 minutes for two.
Expansion sampling is carried out after the plow is installed on the drill. Due to the telescopic device of the drill rod, the plow is pressed against its axis while the drill is in a suspended state. With pressure on the handles, the mechanism takes the plate to the side, thus, at a depth, a cavity in the form of a hemisphere is gradually “gnawed out”.
TISE well drilling technology: 1 - board formwork; 2 - sand; 3 - reinforcing cage; 4 - concrete
Further preparation of wells consists in the installation of a waterproofing lining. For these purposes, roofing felt is applicable, although, if possible, it is recommended to use PET sheets or fiberglass impregnated with bitumen. The waterproofing pipes are cut with a knife along a common secant horizontal plane, a square formwork is installed in the tops, knocked down from 120 mm boards.
Reinforcement and pouring
If you arrange a foundation at a high GWL, before filling each well, a submersible slurry pump must be lowered into it until the liquid is completely removed. A 20 cm sump under the extension helps a lot with this, where the remaining water accumulates.
To reinforce the pile, a canister structure of four longitudinal rods of 12 mm reinforcement with transverse bandaging with clamps every 40-45 cm is used. In terms of the reinforcing frame, it has a square section with a side of 180 mm. To fix the reinforcement exactly in the center of the pile, 35 mm distance rings are put on the rods with an interval of a meter.
Filling takes place as follows: a bucket of coarse gravel or road gravel is poured onto the bottom of the well. The reinforcing frame is installed in place: if a concrete grillage is planned over the pillars, the tails of the reinforcement are released above the pile formwork by 30-40 cm.
Concrete of class 20-25 is used for pouring. The most suitable from the point of view of compaction of the mass can be called sand concrete or concrete on granite screenings with a ratio of cement grade 400 to filler as 1:3.5.
After pouring the concrete, it must be compacted by pinning, and then a vibrator is immersed several times in the well. The upper end of the column is trimmed with a trowel, the protruding reinforcement must be immediately washed from cement. Piles gain full strength like any concrete - in 28 days, but after 100 hours, the construction of superstructures can begin, and a concrete grillage can be cast on the same day as the pillars.
Manual production of piles - advantages and disadvantages
The foundations of TISE did not revolutionize - self-leveling piles with expansion were introduced into the construction site much earlier. And there are a number of circumstances when preference should be given to the standard method of constructing such a foundation without cunning drilling devices.
At the very beginning, we noticed that the tensile strength of the post is much higher than the bearing capacity of the soil, even in the presence of expansion. This difference can be used to good use if you arrange the expansion manually and reinforce it correctly, which will increase the pile installation step to 3-4 meters.
Wells 100x100 cm are dug under such pillars, the bottom is poured 150 mm with the laying of gratings of 14 mm reinforcement rods in two layers and mortgages for reinforcing the pile. After that, a formwork is built - a square pillar with a clearance inside 200x200 mm, diverging in a plywood trapezoid 35 cm from the base. So it becomes possible to build an expansion proportional in strength, to properly reinforce and waterproof concrete, to arrange backfilling around the pillars with material that is not subject to heaving.
An alternative method of pouring through PET pipes
In conclusion, we give a similar version of the execution of such a foundation, which uses substandard PET or wide HDPE pipes. The method is especially good if there is minimal mechanization - a gas drill or KBM from local utilities.
A well with a diameter of 400 mm comes off 50 cm below the freezing depth, 30 cm of concrete is poured to the bottom along the sand bed. Plastic pipes are inserted and leveled into the concrete that has set but not hardened, which subsequently act as formwork, waterproofing and a casing sleeve that prevents the soil from freezing.
The diameter of the pipes must be at least 200 mm; for light domestic buildings, it is permissible to use standard 110 mm pipes with a pile spacing of not more than 1.6 meters. You need to fill the pillars with sand concrete, pin it and seat it with vibration, and then drive 3-4 rods of 12 mm reinforcement inside the entire length of the pile, without worrying about the protective layers.
TISE (Technology of Individual Construction and Ecology) was developed and patented in the 90s of the last century by designer Yakovlev R.N. Using this technology, walls and foundations are erected using special tools and equipment. This article will consider the foundation of TISE, the process of performing work, its advantages and disadvantages.
So, the classic foundation of TISE is columnar foundation with a monolithic reinforced concrete grillage located 10-15 cm above ground level. Its main distinguishing feature is the pillars of complex shape. They have a hemispherical expansion at the bottom, due to which the bearing capacity of the foundation is significantly increased, the minimum required number of pillars is reduced, and if the technology is followed, the likelihood of the foundation being lifted by frost heaving forces is practically eliminated.
The author of the technology in his book “Universal Foundation. TISE technology" indicates the versatility of this type of foundation. It allows its use for buildings made of various materials (wood, blocks, bricks ...) up to 3 floors high on clay, loamy, sandy and sandy soils with both low and high groundwater levels, with a freezing depth of up to 2, 5 meters and even in permafrost conditions.
TISE foundation - advantages and disadvantages
The advantages of this type of foundation include:
– a significant reduction in construction costs, primarily due to savings on building materials and savings on the volume of earthworks performed;
- the simplicity of the technology, which allows you to do the work yourself without the involvement of skilled labor;
- improving the energy efficiency of the house, associated with a small surface area of contact of the foundation with the ground;
- the reliability of the erected building, including in areas of increased seismic activity;
- isolation of the house from strong noise and vibrations coming from nearby railway or highways.
The main disadvantages of the TISE foundation are:
- the need to purchase special equipment, without which the work is impossible;
- the large laboriousness of drilling a well with an expansion at the base, especially on hard clay soils or soils with rocky inclusions and when using drills of an old design (nothing is said about this drawback in the literature, but there is a lot of evidence of this on numerous construction forums).
The decision to use the TISE foundation is usually made when it has already been decided to make a columnar foundation, but the calculation shows that a large diameter of the pillar bases is needed, much larger than can be obtained with simple earth drills.
Foundation drills TISE
An integral part of this foundation construction technology is the use of a special drill, which allows you to form a spherical expansion at the base of the well. Its original modification is shown in the figure.
The drilling of the well was carried out by two cutting edges with incisors located in the drive. The formation of the expansion at the bottom was carried out by a folding plow fixed on a bracket. The bar was sliding, its height could be changed.
The drilling process looked like this: first, with the plow removed, the well was drilled directly, then the plow was put on and the expansion was drilled. The plow fell under its own gravity, and when the drill was raised to extract the earth from the drive, the plow was raised with a cord.
A drill of this design was considered by many to be inconvenient, primarily because of the method of raising and lowering the plow. Therefore, it was later modified. Now on the official website of TISE, drills of a different design are offered for purchase (see figure).
In them, the plow is lowered by pressing the handle of the drill vertically down, and the more you press on the handle, the more intensive the drilling is, but at the same time, the more physically difficult it is to do the work.
I would also like to separately mention the use of special foundation drills from the Master Bur company for drilling wells with the expansion. According to many builders, they are more technologically advanced, it is easier and faster to do the work with them. The principle of their operation is clearly demonstrated in a short video:
Unfortunately, this tool has one significant drawback - its price. So the original TISE drills at the time of this writing cost 4500-5200 rubles. Drillers from the Master Bur company are 9500-16000 rubles, and before using them, you need to drill wells with a simple drill, the price of which is 5200-5800 rubles. The sum is quite a significant figure.
Calculation and technology of building the foundation of TISE
The calculation of the required number of foundation pillars for each specific building is described in detail. For TISE foundations, it is absolutely similar, so we will not repeat it.
Work on the foundation of TISE is carried out in the following sequence:
1) Based on the calculation, the foundation is marked on the building site.
2) Wells are drilled 0.2-0.3 meters below the freezing depth manually or using mechanization.
A few tips:
- It is better to first drill the cylindrical parts of all wells, and then make extensions (this will save time on installing and removing the drill plow);
- In the process of drilling, you may come across stones. Small ones will fall into the drive by themselves, large ones will have to be uprooted and taken out, for example, with a hoe. If you stumble upon a large boulder, you need to move the well (a shift of up to half a meter is permissible without additional calculations);
— To facilitate expansion drilling in dry clay soils, five buckets of water are poured into each well beforehand (for example, overnight). The soil will be moistened and drilling will be easier. Also, water is poured with dry sandy soils, to prevent soil from sprinkling;
- If there is a danger of soil spilling in the expanded base of the well, try not to delay the pouring of concrete. That is, they drilled out one extension, immediately pour concrete, then another, and again concrete, and so on. This is done on sandy soils and at a high level of groundwater, which quickly wash away the walls of the spherical expansion.
3) A roofing material shirt is made (the process is shown in the article on columnar foundations, reinforcement is also described there) and inserted into the well before expansion begins (in the figure below it is shown as waterproofing).
4) The reinforcing cage is knitted, inserted into the well and concrete is poured. The manufacture of reinforcing cages is a rather time-consuming operation, so it is better to complete it even before drilling starts.
5) After pouring all the supports, proceed to the construction of the grillage. A separate article is devoted to this process. To what is written there, it is worth adding only the following: if a high grillage is made, then its level above the ground should not exceed 20 cm. This is due to the small diameter of the cylindrical part of the pile.
If the site is not even, has a certain relief, the grillage is made either with a variable section height for small slopes (in the figure on the left), or stepped - for large slopes (in the figure on the right).
In the comments to this article, you can discuss with readers your experience in the construction and operation of TISE columnar foundations or ask questions that interest you.
Important disclaimer:
All the material described is only my experience. This is not a “how to do” rule, but only "as I decided to do". But personally, I like to learn from someone else's experience and other people's mistakes, because you can't avoid your own, that's why I decided to write such a report. Now we can get to the point.
Pile foundation TISE. Step 1. Marking the pile foundation
Before as mark the foundation, I designed and drew it in Archicad (Archicad 16).
Here is a video that shows how to do it (in just 3 minutes):
If you do not want to do it yourself, you can always buy a ready-made one or order an individual one from us.
Like me marked the pile foundation TISE in practice.
I put these cast-offs and pulled the threads (extreme along the edges of future extreme piles, not extreme - along the centers of future internal piles):
First I pulled 1 thread parallel to the fence at 3 meters. I pulled the second one already according to the Pythagorean theorem using a 3-4-5 triangle. First I measured 4 meters along the already stretched thread, noted 3 meters of the new thread (running perpendicular to the first one) and changed the position of the second one until there were exactly 5 meters between these points.
Then the threads are obtained at 90 degrees to each other. So I pulled all the threads. We spent about 6 hours on it all without experience together. The next time I had to deal with such markup, everything was much simpler.
By the way, I did HUGE mistake in the layout of this columnar foundation. It was necessary to pull the threads immediately to the level, this would then save me from many hours of jumping with the rule and level to equalize the height of all the piles, and also allowed me to put the piles much more evenly than they cost in the end. Well, when I build the next frame house with my own hands, I will take it into account!
The main thing is that after stretching, measure not only the diagonals, but also all parties the resulting quadrilateral, because even diagonals can also be in an isosceles trapezoid. 
final markup results not yet, I’ll tell you exactly later on the diagonals. At the moment “before drilling”, the diagonals of the house and its sides converged to each other up to a mm (on a diagonal length of 14 meters). When drilling holes, it is very difficult to do everything exactly to the mm, so there will obviously be an error. At the moment, all 35 holes have been drilled, 8 piles have been poured, 27 are left. Then I will take all the measurements again.
You can watch a video about my pile field. The pitch of the TISE foundation piles is 1.8 meters in length of the house and 2.3 meters along the gables. Per 100 sq.m. it turned out 35 piles.
Pile foundation TISE. Step 2. We drill holes for piles.
After marking the territory, I took drill TISE with a diameter of 250 mm at a neighbor (but without broadening, just a drill). They drilled all the holes, with a few exceptions. As you understand, without a TISE drill, there will be no foundation of TISE.
Before drilling, I found an overhang center of the future pile(or the edge - at the piles along the perimeter), and then, using a galvanized pipe with a diameter of 250 mm, marked the place of the future pile. As shown in the video:
To get bored 35 holes 1.6 meters deep and make them below TISE broadening, I spent 9 days of 4 hours, between which there were also 4 days of rest (i.e. I spent 13 days in total):
1 day — 14 holes by 0.5 meters and 21 holes by 0.2 meters were manually drilled (a kind of marking, but in depth);
Day 2 - the remaining 21 holes were manually drilled up to 0.5 meters;
Day 3 — 11 holes were manually drilled up to 1.6 meters and 8 widenings were made;
Day 4 – a motor drill was rented for two operators and 24 holes were drilled up to 1.1 meters;
Day 5 — 10 holes were manually drilled up to 1.6 meters and 2 widenings were made;
Day 6 - 5 more widenings were made, the drill was broken;
Day 7 - drill repaired;
Day 8 - 7 more extensions were made;
Day 9 - the remaining 6 extensions are made (cheers).
Photos from this stage:
I storm a hole, after each ejection of soil I apply level on 2 sides to the storm: 
I do TISE pile widening:
But with such a home-made 3-meter drill, this broadening was done: 
TISE drilling stage errors:
1. Now I would not make a TISE foundation of 250 mm, but would make 200 mm, there is enough strength for a 1-2-storey frame house, and 20% less work and material would be needed. Plus, most importantly, for 200 mm you can take a motor drill for one operator, which would facilitate drilling and its accuracy. But some people like to play it safe. Believe me, in a frame house, excessive reinsurance is simply not needed, this is an extra expenditure of effort and money.
2. Take motobur was not worth it. He does everything very inaccurately, it would be better if he did everything with a hand drill. I had to fix a lot and redo it later anyway. But this applies to a motor drill for two operators, for one, they say, it is much better. But at 250mm it is rarely possible to connect a 250mm auger, so again we are back to mistake number one with the size of the piles.
3. It was necessary close immediately drilled holes. After a couple of rains, 30-40 cm of sand went back into the holes. It is also better to immediately take the sand somewhere away from the holes, and not leave it next to the piles, as I did. But not too far, because then you will need to sprinkle piles (if they are high above the ground).
I did leave the holes drilled for quite a long time due to injury, if left for a few days, this problem will not arise.
Pile foundation TISE. Step 3. We fill the piles.
It is very scary to work with concrete for the first time, it is not clear whether the mixture is correct, whether it will hold. But TISE foundation much more reliable than a screw foundation and, in fact, almost eternal. And this topic remains open until now (until the house has been idle for 20 years, I will not be sure that everything is OK).
First day. Spent 3 hours on org. preparation. Then, in 4 hours, he poured the first pile. The test pile turned out to be very long, besides, I made it from sand, cement and water, which turned out to be very difficult.
Second day. I prepared better, bought OPGS and C-3 plasticizer. That's when things got going. The concrete turned out thick, while without excess water, as on the first day. In just 7 hours, he poured 4 piles, it took 12 batches of 90 liters each.
In total, it took about 35 piles to fill 10 days Thus, together with my wife (sometimes my father helped), we poured 3-4 piles a day.
Proportions for my concrete(in buckets): 1 cement, 1 sand, 4 OPGS and 0.5 water + 150 grams of C-3 in a solution of 36% (i.e. hot water 300 ml + 150 grams of C-3). The water/cement ratio is 1/2. After 8 piles were poured, I ordered another OPGS and removed the sand from the proportion, I just did 1-4-0.5.
How do I poured piles(step by step report):
- I pour the first portion of concrete to close the widening
- I insert a cylinder of roofing felt, which is not fastened together at all, I smooth it along the walls of the pile (they turned out to be a little wider than 250 mm and it’s even more convenient, because the 250 mm galvanized pipe then rises well). I fix the cylinder with nails 60-70 mm to the walls of the pile. to keep the cylinder from falling apart.
- I make a batch and again pour the concrete into the pile. now I insert 3 armatures so that they crawl out to the height of the future pile. in general, it is possible later, but my concrete set in half an hour, then it was problematic to insert the reinforcement.
- after each new layer of concrete, be sure to vibrate it for 10-15 seconds to the height of the new layer + 10 cm of the old one.
- I pour out the concrete to the ground zero, vibrate, put the pipe. I note how much it should stick out above the ground with a tape measure, to the rest of the height I bury it inside the roofing material (more is better, because then I don’t want to cut the pipe with concrete, but it’s always easier to plant the pipe with plywood).
- I set the pipe according to the level, sprinkle it on the sides so that it does not leave the level (it will still go away, but less).
- I pour concrete into it, vibrate, control that the reinforcement does not leave its place, control the level of the pile and its height above the ground (it can go down).
- when the pipe is completely filled up with concrete, I vibrate and insert a 75 cm m10 stud into it (25 cm above the pile, the stud is meter long). a nut is screwed onto the lower part of the stud about 5 cm from the bottom, then 2 washers and again another nut (so that the grillage does not tear the stud out of the concrete). I set the hairpin according to the level and watch the distance from the edges of the pile with a tape measure (should be 12.5 cm approximately).
- I look at the level of the pile. I sprinkle with sand by 20-30 cm, so that the wind does not stagger until it freezes.
- I cover the hairpin and pile with a plastic bag. Sprinkle sand on top and pour water on top.
Total: Approximately 25 days(including rest and injury all 35).
TISE pile foundation care
After the piles were filled, I threw them from above sand(as it dries up, you can replace the sand with sawdust), watered it from above, and then put it on top plastic bag and tied it on a pile. Every day I took off the package and watered from above sand from a watering can or from a hose.
Here are the photos (done incorrectly, I first covered it with a bag, and then poured sand, and not vice versa): 
Here you can also see the studs in the pile.
Here is the final photo of the piles after a month of exposure: 
The evenness of the piles can then be adjusted by making additional. a layer of concrete or waterproof plywood of different thicknesses.
Mistakes stage of pouring foundation piles TISE:
1. I decided to mix concrete without crushed stone, nothing interfered, everything stuck together, a lot of cement was spent, as well as water (which reduced the brand of concrete). It turned out sand concrete, but not everyone considers it suitable for the foundation
2. I forgot to put the plasticizer in concrete on the first pile, the problem arose again with water.
3. In the first pile, I put the reinforcement inaccurately, it stuck to the side
4. Galvanized pipes are cool, but putting them in roofing material is very inconvenient if the roofing material cylinder is the same size. you need to make a hole and a cylinder a little wider (a couple of cm) than the pipe.
Do-it-yourself TISE column foundation costs
Here is mine cost estimate for TISE(house 100 sq.m.):
— Galvanized ventilation pipes with a diameter of 250 mm 40 pcs. (cut into the desired size from 50 to 100 cm, because there is a slope on the site) = 7800 rubles.
- Rebar 40 bars of reinforcement 11.7 meters each, each cut into 6 pieces of 1.95 meters = 6700 rubles.
- Cement 2 tons = 10,000 rubles.
- Plasticizer C-3 15 kg. = 1000 rubles
- Studs and nuts with washers for piles - 2200 rubles
- Ruberoid 10 pcs - 3000 rubles
- OPGS 15 tons - 14,000 rubles (can be replaced with 5 tons of crushed stone, it will be cheaper)
– Deep vibrator = 2500
- A concrete mixer - (they just gave it for the first time, then I had to rent it, but add 250 rubles a day or 7-10 thousand rubles for a purchase - prices for 2015 are probably more expensive now).
Total: 48 thousand rubles + concrete mixer. To summarize, 50 thousand + their work. With a hired force of about 100,000.
I remind you of our services - we will develop for your builders or you, we will develop a quality one, and we will also bring German-made products to any region for you.
The desire to build your house cheaply and reliably is increasingly forcing developers to look for more effective novelties in the construction business. Wood concrete houses, aerated concrete or foundations using TISE technology have long come into the construction of low-rise buildings and have become commonplace. Foundation systems on TISE piles with increased bearing capacity are slowly but surely gaining popularity in individual construction, often even where their use does not bring any particular benefits.
What is the foundation of TISE, and where is it used
This is a technology borrowed from the field of industrial construction, which was developed for the construction of high-rise reinforced concrete structures in problem areas. Building a house on a foundation using TISE technology made it possible to solve a number of specific tasks:
- Ensure the construction of a foundation with a large bearing capacity with a minimum amount of excavation, which improves the environment in the area adjacent to the construction site;
- Make the structure of the house insensitive to any vibrations of the ground, for example, subway, trams and railway transport;
- Avoid the destruction of the frame of the house when the soil is heaving, especially for areas with a large depth of soil freezing.
For your information! The last point is most often the main argument in favor of using the TISE foundation.
The fundamentally universal foundation according to TISE technology is not much different from any other pile support systems. The main and main difference is in the design of the TISE pile itself. It resembles an inverted countersunk screw, at the bottom of the pile there is a hemispherical expansion, twice the diameter of the main shaft section.
The TISE pile, unlike other support options, is cast in the ground from a concrete mixture, which greatly simplifies the technology and minimizes the cost of transporting and installing foundation supports. But for casting, it will be necessary to make a well with a depth below the freezing point, and this, for example, for the Moscow region can be 120-150 cm. In practice, the pouring depth is performed in the region from 150 to 250 cm. There are few reasons for such wastefulness, but they exist. Firstly, the concrete body of the TISE pile in the ground contributes to a deeper freezing of the soil, so they try to deepen the support lower, and secondly, the warmer lower soil layers with temperatures from +3 ° C to +5 ° C warm up part of the concrete structure and reduce the risk its destruction.
Do-it-yourself TISE foundation
In addition to a lot of positive aspects, universal foundations using TISE technology have a lot of nuances and conditions for using a pile system. For example, the foundation of TISE, unlike the tape version, does not forgive mistakes, miscalculations and violations of technology are much more expensive than in the classical version. Therefore, before starting work, it will be necessary to calculate the foundation of TISE.
Estimated calculation option for the number and size of TISE piles
There are many recommendations and methods, including practical ones, based on an accurate geological study of the soil and the choice of a method for reinforcing the foundation. But, without experience and full engineering knowledge, it is better not to use complex methodological recommendations, but to assess the number of TISE piles and the step of their installation.
The procedure for assessing the parameters of the TISE pile foundation:
- According to the sketch and accurate data on the geometric dimensions of the house, the materials of the walls, ceilings, roof frame, roofing material, the weight of the house is considered as scrupulously as possible. To the value obtained, it is necessary to add the weight of furniture, equipment and the mass of snow cover of maximum thickness;
- It is necessary to drill at least three points of the pit, a meter deep, in the area where the construction of the TISE foundation is planned, classify the soil and determine the bearing capacity of the pile in tons from the reference data from the table;
- Next, we divide the weight of the building by the tabular standard for a specific size of the support foot of the TISE pile. We get the number of TISE supports. It remains to divide the length of the foundation tape by the number of supports, we get the desired step between the piles.
Advice! The distance between the supports of TISE depends on the thickness of the grillage; for a section of 30 cm, an average step value of 1.2-1.5 m can be taken.
In addition to the pencil method for assessing the number of piles, you can resort to specialized programs that allow you to work with the parameters of the TISE foundation as accurately as possible. Most often, this method is used if the construction budget is limited, or documentary detailing is necessary when drawing up estimates for the construction customer.
Preparation for installation of foundation piles TISE
The most difficult stage in the construction of foundations using TISE technology is the drilling of pits or boreholes for piles. Today, almost the entire volume of drilling for TISE piles in the private sector is carried out by hand drills "Tise-F". The work is heavy, the performance is highly dependent on the density of the soil. Before you start to beat the pits, make a standard marking of the foundation on the site, fill in the lines of TISE piles and drilling points. The soil taken to the surface can be laid out in a wheelbarrow or on a tarpaulin, in between it can be removed along with debris and pieces of sod.
- First, we drill at all points of the location of the piles to a depth of about 80-90% of the calculated value. Pre-drilling is best done with a tool without a side nozzle, it is easier to work;
- A couple of buckets of water are poured into each drilled well, and after an hour and a half, they begin to form an expansion or cavity under the bearing heel of the TISE pile. Wet ground will be lighter and faster.
Important! When drilling, try to control the drilling vertical as much as possible; when installing a reinforcing frame made of steel rod, this will allow you to correctly install the reinforcement in the well.
With a large heel diameter, it is quite difficult to select soil from the cavity, but this must be done at any cost. You can add water or rotate the drill with jerky movements - the main thing is that the blade or plow of the tool carefully cuts out the cavity of the required size.
Casting of piles using TISE technology
Before pouring concrete, you will need to perform two more important operations - install waterproofing and reinforcement. The quality of the formation of the side surface of the pile and the resistance of the support to freezing in a humid environment depend on the quality of the waterproofing layer. It is not necessary to explain the importance of the correct installation of reinforcement, this is the guarantee of the strength of the TISE pile, which works both in compression and in rupture.
For waterproofing, a standard roofing material is used. A sheet one meter wide is cut to the size of the depth of the well plus the removal of waterproofing above the soil surface. The workpiece is rolled into a pipe along the diameter of the well, and the seam in the upper part of the insulation is sealed with mastic. The amount of waterproofing removal above the ground must be made to the size to the bottom of the foundation tape plus 3-5 cm. The waterproofing is lowered into the well and fixed with spacer rails.
The reinforcing frame of the foundation pile is most often welded in advance from a reinforcement bar of 10-12 mm with side jumpers. The lower ends of the bars are connected and reinforced with welded-on elements made of thicker metal. The upper ends are released above the cut of the TISE pile to the height of the foundation or grillage. It remains to install the frame in the well and align its position so that the ends of the bars are in the same vertical plane with the threads of the horizontal reinforcement of the foundation.
This method of manufacturing the TISE foundation frame does not provide a full-fledged TISE pile heel, and this is one of the most significant drawbacks of the technology. In some cases, the frame is recruited from individual rods with ends bent to the side. After installing 6-8 rods in the well, they are deployed and oriented so that the bent parts of the reinforcement diverge radially in different directions, thereby reinforcing the heel of the TISE pile. The axial part of the TISE pile is reinforced by installing a conventional welded frame in four bars with ligation with peripheral elements.
Before pouring concrete into the well, the upper part of the waterproofing, protruding above the surface, is put on a rigid collapsible form of wood or metal and covered with sand. For a standard TISE pile with a trunk diameter of 25 cm, 60 to 90 liters of mortar will be required, depending on the depth of embedment. The volume is considerable, so it will be most convenient to use a manual or electric concrete mixer. In addition, this will allow to obtain good mixing of all components of the solution, which means uniform shrinkage of the foundation and a minimum of surface defects.
Filling is most conveniently done through a horn or sleeve. After pouring more than half of the pile cavity, it is necessary to carry out the mortar casing. To do this, we take scrap and ram the mortar, trying to achieve full filling of all voids in the area of \u200b\u200bthe heel of the TISE pile. Similarly, we fill and seal the second half of the cavity of the foundation support.
Advice! When pouring, control the level of the concrete of the foundation so as not to cover the ends of the reinforcement to be tied with the foundation tape.
Specialists involved in consultations on the arrangement of the TISE foundation believe that with a normal viscosity of the solution, part of the cement with water will drain into the bottom of the sole and form a clay-cement cushion. Thus, the bearing capacity of the TISE foundation piles should increase by at least 40-60% of the calculated value.
TISE foundation assembly
In the classic version, the yew foundation is built in the form of a grillage, based on piles at a height of 5-10 cm above the ground. This method of constructing the TISE foundation allows you to protect the concrete mass from moisture and heaving of the soil.
The assembly of the bearing tape of the grillage takes place according to a scheme similar to the casting of the strip foundation. Before proceeding with the assembly of the shield structure for casting the supporting array of the foundation, the space between the heads of the TISE piles must be covered with sand in order to create support under the bottom formwork shield.
Next, the lower and side walls of the formwork of the future foundation are installed on the sand and gravel backfill, the wooden structure must be carefully leveled along the horizon so that when the solution is poured, the moving mass of concrete does not flow in one direction. The sides are reinforced with wooden stakes and props. For a small frame house of 5x8 m, it will be enough to make a foundation grillage 30 cm high and 25 cm wide.
At the next stage, it is necessary to lay a film or roofing felt waterproofing on the bottom of the formwork, the edges of the roofing material of the insulation of TISE piles are cut with a “chamomile” and run under the film layer of the foundation formwork.
The most time-consuming step in casting the foundation tape is the correct laying and bandaging of the reinforcement bars. A 10 mm steel bar is used to reinforce the grillage and foundation. To strengthen the foundation, a lower layer of reinforcement of four threads is laid at a distance of 3 cm from the bottom and a similar top layer.
The ligation of the threads of the foundation reinforcement can be performed according to the scheme proposed in the figure.
During the pouring of the tape with a mortar, anchor bolts or fasteners are embedded in the body of concrete, with which the foundation of future walls will be attached, covered with a film, and kept for at least two weeks until the pre-strength casting is set. In extreme heat for the first couple of days, it is necessary to spray the structure with water once a day.
Conclusion
The TISE foundation can be used for two and even three-story frame buildings. But it must be taken into account that an average building of 350-370 tons on soft ground will require at least a hundred TISE supports, which is quite difficult and time-consuming to do manually. In addition, unlike most foundation schemes, TISE supports require very careful sequential execution of all technological operations and good quality cement.
The new, and at the same time well-forgotten old foundation according to the TISE technology differs from the traditional ones in that in it the piles are not driven into the ground, but seem to “grow” out of it. Many compare this technology with "hammered nails, only with a hat down." And thanks to the expansion from below, no heaving forces can push the bath out of the ground - this is ideal for problem soils with quicksand and noticeable seasonal deformations. What else are the advantages of the TISE foundation and how to build it, this article will tell.
Why has the TISE foundation become so popular?
It is not without reason that such a foundation was proudly named as a universal foundation: TISE technology has its own zest in that on such a foundation it is really possible to build baths of any complexity and on almost any soil, except for rocks. Moreover, quite solid baths are two-story, and even with reinforced concrete floors. And such a zero level showed itself especially well on high-heaving soils, where other foundations threaten to give a serious crack in the second decade.
And the foundation of TISE is completely indispensable in those areas where a railway is laid nearby or a highway for heavy vehicles passes. After all, it is there that the greatest vibration is dangerous for traditional foundations, but completely imperceptible for TISE.
And, finally, reviews of the TISE foundation indicate that, according to estimates, it costs two times less than the classic tape one - after all, during its construction, the volume of earthworks and the amount of concrete consumed are significantly reduced.
Why is this unusual building technology most valued so much? For the fact that all this is relatively inexpensive and building a TISE foundation with your own hands is not a problem.
Stage I. Site preparation
First of all, the fertile layer of the earth is removed and sand is brought. A cast-off is installed and the position of future pillars is marked. Although, in fairness, we note that some craftsmen do not remove the fertile soil, and subsequently do not regret it: after all, the grillage in such a foundation is made hanging, and the floors of the bath will not come into contact with the ground. Especially if they are of good quality.
Initially, when exploring the site where the bath will be built, it is important to decide what will be easier and cheaper - to level the entire area with a shovel or still build a grillage of variable cross section.
Stage II. Cast-off construction
The most important part of the work is the calculation of the TISE foundation and the competent marking of the site for it.
By the way, if there is no real hydraulic level at hand, you can use an ordinary transparent hose with water for this purpose. For orientation: the zero level for a bath using TISE technology will be at a distance of 35-45 cm from the ground.
Already after marking the zero level, you need to file the pegs and hammer in the outer corners of the perimeter of the carnation, pulling the rope over them. Even better - a thick fishing line with parameters of 0.5-0.7 mm, this will not sag.
After the corner pegs are distributed, it is imperative to drive in the axial pegs for the internal load-bearing walls.
Now the cast-off frame is being installed - for this you can use round timber, boards 50 mm thick and a garden drill. Making a cast-off is better than a semi-solid one - this is both more practical and more economical. Formwork is fixed with thick boards. Further, with the help of the building level, the zero level is marked on the cast-off.
The next step is to nail smooth bars to the boards - so that their upper part forms a zero level. On the bars we mark the position of the cord for the inner and outer perimeter of the walls and the central axis for future foundation pillars. At the same time, it is extremely important to strictly control the diagonals - their size can be easily calculated using the Pythagorean theorem for each room.
Now you need to drive in nails and pull fishing line or cords on them - it will be more convenient if you take them in different colors. Such a cast-off is done only for control and it must be removable.
Where the cords of the central axis of the pillars intersect at the corners - and there will be their exact location. And for a plumb line, you can use a weight and a pan without a bottom with a diameter of about 25 cm. Along this circle, you need to dig a hole in the floor of a shovel and you can start drilling.
Stage III. Drilling of the wells
The construction of such a foundation is a rather laborious process. And here it is important to optimize your strength. So, at first it is better to drill 3-5 wells, and then make extensions in them. This saves a lot of time for re-equipment of the drill. And the drill itself for such an undertaking can be welded independently - literally in an hour.
If there is little sand in the soil, it will be quite difficult to drill it. But there is a trick here: water will help. By pouring 5 buckets into each well overnight, it will be much easier to expand the next morning.
A lot of wells will be needed in total - at least 50 for a small bath.
Stage IV. Extension
Drilling the expansion is already more difficult - here it is necessary that the drive is in place and does not resist, and the plow and rod rotate. Up to 3 such extensions can be made per day - due to the fact that a lot of time will be spent on filling. If the diameter of the well is up to 30 cm, and the expansion is up to 60 cm, up to 30 kg of cement will go to each column. The concrete itself should not be very thick, but not liquid either.
Stage V. Reinforcement
The next step is to bend the reinforcement. And so that it does not accidentally hurt due to a dangerous bend between the bolts, you can additionally use pieces of pipes. It is necessary to calculate the length of the bar based on the depth of the column and leave another 15 cm for the air gap of the grillage, as well as the bend radius of the lower and upper parts. In total, about 2 bars will go to one pole, if he himself is about one and a half meters. Then the length is generally needed 3.7 meters - this is an example of calculation.
If the reinforcement sticks out slightly from the post, this is not a problem - it can then be used as a vibratory compactor during concrete pouring. From such manipulations, air bubbles come out well from the compacted concrete.
Stage VI. Ruberoid laying and filling
As a waterproofing for such a foundation, roofing material is most suitable. Putting it is not difficult - just cut it into pieces right on the ground and roll it into a shirt. You can fasten it with paper clips and put it in the well - but only after the expansion is filled and the reinforcement is installed. The protruding end of such a shirt must be sprinkled with soil taken out of the well before and compacted well.
It is desirable to concrete wells as quickly as possible - it is better to immediately in batches of 5 pieces. As soon as the pillars are filled and the pillars are covered, after a while you can proceed to the manufacture of the grillage.
Stage VII. Manufacturing grillage
First you need to set up the shields and beat them with dense polyethylene. The formwork itself can be strengthened with ordinary studs - when holes are drilled in the beam from above and below and one end of the stud is bent to the other, where the washer and nut are screwed. Reinforcement is laid directly on the studs, which is fixed on top with plastic ties.
Interestingly, according to the reviews of those attendants who have already built their baths using TISE technology, it is not recommended to buy a drill from firms - supposedly making the same one with your own hands is both easier and cheaper, and it will work more productively. Even better - two drills at once: one for wells and one for extensions.
After all, such tricks and devices not only allow you to save some money, but also optimize the whole process. A good foundation is a strong bath!
