Good afternoon everyone!
Knowledge is power, you can't argue with that.
A friend recently contacted me with the question of whether it is possible to install windows myself.
He decided to build a country house on his own, to occupy himself, so to speak, after retirement, and is preparing an information base regarding each stage.
And I, as a window specialist, just came in handy. I threw out a short plan of action for him, and decided to consider all the questions in detail on my blog.
Look for all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.
However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.
We bring to your attention instructions for self-installation of plastic windows.
Do-it-yourself technology and procedure for installing plastic windows
The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:
- Dismantling of old windows (if replacement is being made).
- Preparation of a new plastic window.
- Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
- Fastening fasteners to the window frame.
- Creation of recesses in the wall in the places where the fasteners are attached.
- Insertion and exposure of a plastic window on a horizontal and vertical level.
- Fixing the window in the opening with the help of fasteners in the places of holes for them.
- Foaming (filling with mounting foam) of the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
- Installation and alignment of the window sill.
- Slope installation.
- Window hardware adjustment.
- Installation of low tide from the outside of the window.
The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house, cottage.
If you live in an apartment, then the installation of the ebb must be done after inserting windows without double-glazed windows.
To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and the rubber gasket, and knocks the glazing bead out of the groove with light blows), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.
Thus, through the window it is easy to align and install the ebb.
Before installing the window, a stand profile is mounted.
It's as easy as shelling pears: lay the profile in the right place, align it horizontally and foam it.
But before foaming, it is better to put a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.
If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.
It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the lower groove of the window.
If the profile is not provided in the package, then under the window you need to put blocks to the height of the window sill in order to fix the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.
First you need to attach fasteners to the window, on which it will hold. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.
Fastening to the window is carried out with a metal screw about 10 cm long (1 screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).
If you insert a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fixing screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall with dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.
For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.
After that, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch recesses under the entire fastener plate, so that later we cover the entire fastening with mortar and level the wall for installing slopes.
After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal again. Therefore, you should not immediately tighten the screws into the opening completely.
Alignment work is best done by two people, so that one person holds the window, and the second puts the bars for leveling. We turn to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with mounting foam.
The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.
Note!
Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a sprayer, for example). This is the only way the foam will grip the structure of the walls as much as possible.
If you install the window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-weather or winter mounting foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.
The foam should dry for at least half a day. After that, it must be closed from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with a conventional mortar, or with tile adhesive, or with a protective impervious film.
Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.
For these purposes, a jigsaw or grinder is perfect. Then you should move the window sill to the stand profile (if any) and align.
If, after leveling, there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, after removing the window sill.
If everything is fine, then a simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the window sill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it enters the opening clearly along with the plugs. The plugs are best glued to the window sill with super glue.
After leveling the window sill, it must be checked for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.
Helpful advice!
If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, after pressing down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) in order to avoid bulging upward from the mounting foam. The next day, excess foam under the windowsill can be removed with a regular knife.
By the way, you can install a window sill with a very small slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensate does not seep between the window and the window sill.
Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows
Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the desired length (two - to the height of the opening, the third - to the width of the opening).
After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out on mounting foam.
And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).
Do-it-yourself installation of ebbs on plastic windows
The ebb is mounted very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with screws to the stand profile and foamed.
After installing plastic windows, fittings are adjusted, a mosquito net is placed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in future articles.
source: gold-cottage.ru
Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.
You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these activities.
Naturally, high-quality plastic double-glazed windows cost quite a tangible amount of money, but the cost of them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.
In this case, the savings, approximately, will be from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each self-installed double-glazed window.
Just in this article of our DIY construction and repair blog, we will consider in detail the issue of self-installation of plastic windows.
At the end of the article, you will also find a thematic video installation of plastic windows with your own hands in accordance with GOST.
Installing a plastic window - steps:
- Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window with and without unpacking.
- Fasteners - types of fasteners, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
- Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffuse tape, what to place where - diagram.
- Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
- Ebb installation - diagram, recommendations for the use of mounting foam.
- Assembly of the window - we collect the window after unpacking.
- Installation of a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
- Installing slopes - installing plastic slopes with your own hands in steps, diagram.
Today there are two methods for installing metal-plastic windows:
- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.
The method of installation with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the double-glazed window:
- remove staples
- glass is removed from the frame and set aside in a certain place until it is installed.
After that, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances on which we will focus your attention.
Because it is this more time-consuming but safer method (for plastic double-glazed windows) of installation that we chose to write an article and, of course, it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with our own hands.
Helpful advice!
When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, as careless manipulation of the glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.
Double-glazed windows can accidentally break during their removal and transfer, but if everything is done carefully, then nothing terrible will happen.
If this process is carried out without unpacking, then the removal of glasses and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fasteners previously installed on the outer area.
But this type of fastening is not suitable for bulk windows that have a large mass.
From this we conclude that the use of the first technology for installing a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough theory, let's get down to practice.
The window usually consists of several parts. These parts can be deaf or be an opening sash.
Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.
Removing glass.
After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, it is necessary to remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf (non-opening) parts of the window.
Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (the glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the double-glazed window) are not fully clogged and it is possible to easily dismantle them.
If, nevertheless, the glazing beads were drowned to the end at the manufacturer, it is necessary to insert a small spatula into the seam between the glazing bead and the window frame and carefully tapping the mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).
After the glazing beads give in and begin to come out of the grooves, the plastic clamps begin to fall out, they must be assembled, since we will need them at the time of mounting the glazing beads back.
We think it’s not worth reminding that everything must be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.
It is best to perform this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which weighs an average of 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.
And one more thing, it is necessary to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, and even better, lean the double-glazed window (double-glazed windows) against the wall, if there are several of them, then lay a layer of soft clean rag between them.
In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, it is necessary to slightly open it in order to gain access to the hinges.
The dismantling of the opening sash must begin with the analysis of the upper hinge.
To do this, you need to remove the spindle (a rotating shaft inside the loop), first you need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.
Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it out, respectively, down.
After the upper hinge is disassembled, it is necessary to slightly deviate the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash approximately 5 cm.
After that, the sash will also be released from the second lower hinge. To perform this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.
Fasteners.
Fasteners, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed around the entire perimeter starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between the bolts being 700 mm, and the minimum being 150 (see diagram below).
Also, fasteners should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both from above and below to make the plastic window structure rigid.
Mounting types.
According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:
- Fastening with a screw on concrete.
- Dowel nails with anchor plates.
- Fastening with anchor bolt.
When installing pvc plastic windows with our own hands according to GOST, we choose the method of fastening using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fasteners, where you can not think about the weight of the window.
Fastening with anchor bolt.
- concrete - 40 mm
- solid brick - 40 mm
- slatted brick - 60 mm
- porous natural stone blocks - 50 mm
Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials, this is dictated by the fact that indoor humidity is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates into the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.
If the outer contour of the joint is made as dense as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the joint, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when arranging assembly joints, it is always necessary to follow the principle inside is denser than outside.
For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and the bearing wall is less than 40 mm, use PSUL, if this distance is more than 40 mm, then a diffusion tape with similar properties.
PSUL, as well as diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame, they are designed to protect the mounting foam from the effects of the external environment, as well as so that moisture can escape from the mounting seam during the operation of plastic windows.
From all of the above, we conclude that, ideally, it is necessary to use a diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.
You can see an example with a diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically shown in the diagram below.
Opening preparation.
The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.
After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion - adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and / or liquid bodies).
The frame of the window unit is installed in the opening, while the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but must be installed on bearing supports, for this you can use plastic wedges.
These wedges are installed under the corner and transom joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.
For leveling, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the folded part in practice is not always even, due to the fact that at the time of drilling it could be deformed.
After that, it is necessary to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and further in the wall.
After that, it is necessary to insert anchor bolts into the drilled holes, but not completely, in order to be able to align the frame.
After all the anchor fasteners have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed evenly and if everything is normal, we sink the anchor bolts and screw in the anchor, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.
Ebb installation.
The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is the installation of a low tide. The ebb can be ordered from the manufacturer of the window, or you can use the old one, unless of course it is in good condition.
The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).
The time has come when it is necessary to use mounting foam.
During the production process, the temperature of the cylinder with polyurethane foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.
Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator pistol and on the cylinder itself.
Note!
Mounting foam is used with gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening due to less expensive building material - for example, brick or foam.
Window assembly.
After we have mounted the window frame and the ebb, all the external work on installing the PVC window with our own hands is completed and you can return the sash and the double-glazed window.
First install the glass.
To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame, it would be nice if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at that moment you inserted the glazing beads on the guides and with gentle blows of the mallet seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clips).
Then you need to install the window sash, for this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).
When installing a window sill, it must first be cut.
Then tightly attach to the stand profile, after that we align the window sill with a level and put various materials.
The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensate, but in no case should it sag.
After 12 hours when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and the excess foam must be cut off.
Helpful advice!
The load was designed to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.
It is highly undesirable that there is a gap between the window sill and the frame, if, nevertheless, it remains, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.
The first thing to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden plank to the perimeter of the window (the inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).
Fasten with screws approximately 95 mm long.
The bar should not protrude from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.
To make the slopes even, it is necessary to align the planks with a level.
After that, we attach the U-shaped starting profile to the outer frame of the window. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping bugs, which are screwed directly into the window frame.
Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as accurately as possible.
The next step is to install the F-profile, it is fastened with a construction stapler.
The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; slopes will be placed in these grooves. At the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or scissors for iron, because this groove overlaps the top of the window.
After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you are unable to fit the seams evenly, then you can smear them with white silicone.
source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru
Today I will tell you about how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door in one day with my own hands.
This job does not require special skills or expensive equipment.
But, of course, there are many nuances that you should definitely pay attention to. And of course there are a few secrets on how to save money when ordering.
I used windows that are optimal in terms of thermal performance
- with a four-chamber window profile
- and double glazing
- as well as a reinforced front door.
By the way, it was the door that accounted for almost half of the cost of the order.
And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price - at the end of the article.
1. Let's get started!
2. We have a freshly built aerated concrete house in which 8 windows and one front door need to be installed.
First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.
As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed from below - there will be a window sill there).
For the quarters, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which were installed, like all masonry, on mounting foam.
The depth of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.
It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings for standard window sizes - the technology for their production is automated and there is no difference in cost between a standard size or a custom-made window.
The final dimensions of the window are considered taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with mounting foam.
From the bottom on all windows from the factory there is a stand profile 3 centimeters high, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill.
Plus, under the delivery profile, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically must be subtracted from the internal dimensions of the opening.
You should not get carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because. it will be extremely inconvenient to fill in mounting foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.
3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of blind non-opening windows.
In the case of a one-story country house, there is no problem to go outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation, you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time, its width should be much greater than its height, or rather, its height must not exceed 50 cm).
The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose the useful area of glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows 60x60 cm in size, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.
The above price includes only windows and door (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to buy anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, mounting foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.
4. We will need: a screwdriver with a drill for concrete, mounting foam with a gun, PSUL tape, mounting plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.
Note!
Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that it is impossible to save on a measuring tool.
5. There are two ways to fix the window frame: through fixing with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.
The first method requires more time and skills.
In particular, you will need to carefully pull the double-glazed window out of the frame, and then install it in place.
The glazing beads holding it are usually fixed very tightly and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience will be required.
Plus, if we are talking about installation in two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.
In addition, through fastening requires precise fixation during drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation is carried out on mounting plates.
Helpful advice!
Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.
The plate is installed by turning in the groove of the frame and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill through the metal frame inside the frame).
6. After that, PSUL tape is glued on the outside of the frame on all sides except for the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.
It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.
The purpose of the tape is to protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because. the tape expands very slowly in the cold.
7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you get deep quarters.
This should be done so that when pouring the mounting foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.
8. Now let's move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and the base ideally coincides with the level of the horizon.
This happens by itself during the construction of aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the rest in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use a stand profile.
9. We apply the window and mark the place for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.
It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to score them with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After that, we bait the screws through the mounting plates.
10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.
In the case of small windows, this will not be difficult, because. there will be no diagonal skew of the window and it is enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plates and take out the piece of laminate at the base.
Note!
Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be kept in the opening solely on the mounting plates.
Mounting foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.
11. You will have to tinker with large windows. The mass of each is more than 80 kilograms and it will not be easy to lift it into the opening alone.
I built a ladder from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters up.
3 on each side except the bottom.
Here you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.
At the bottom of the large windows, there was a support profile in which the window sill will be installed.
Directly under the support profile, I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.
12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because. an open sash will add load to the frame.
On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation.
Helpful advice!
Even if you put the windows at the beginning of the repair, the film must be removed immediately.
If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, in addition, the plastic will burn out unevenly (relevant for the outside of the frame).
13. We pass to the front door. This is a reinforced door on 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than outward opening.
But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outward. When installing the door frame, the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.
To fix the door, I used 10 anchor plates. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.
For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door must be fully functional when held only by anchor plates.
It should not warp when opened and should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.
14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory. it allows you to adjust the amount of foam output.
Helpful advice!
With foam, there are nuances that you definitely need to know.
First - the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and it must be closed from sunlight. On the outside of the window, there is a PSUL tape for this, on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it with paint. As for the application of foam, it absolutely cannot be cut.
The shell that formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly in the volume so that the excess does not protrude.
It is important not to overdo it with the depth of the gun nozzle, because. do not forget that on the outside we have a PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.
Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, gently tamping (until it has frozen, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is necessary to use a special winter foam.
Most likely not in all corners the frame is strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.
16. Done! Windows and doors must be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we are moving on to the final stage.
17. We take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.
In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm each and one 70 cm long. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess with a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.
It should be borne in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters, this is important when choosing the depth.
Note!
Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.
We install the window sill either strictly horizontally, or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.
18. We close the edges with special plates, which should be glued to superglue.
As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above so that it does not lift it with mounting foam.
And fill the bottom of the entire plane of the base with foam. Just as with window frames, foam expansion should be controlled and should not be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.
19. The final chord is the installation of ebbs. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame with the help of self-tapping screws (having previously smeared the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with mounting foam and load it.
20. Done!
Do not forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated in installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.
Having done this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on the installation.
Buying and installing new windows is not cheap, and a significant part of the cost comes from paying for installation. You can cut costs by doing this part of the work yourself. We will tell you how to install a plastic window yourself, giving step-by-step instructions with a photo.
Measurements required for the manufacture of a plastic window
The ease with which you succeed or fail depends on how correctly you take measurements. After all, having made a larger window block, you will be forced to increase the opening, and if you make a mistake with the dimensions down, you will increase it.
It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the future frame based on the type of windows, which are:
- with a quarter, i.e. with a half-brick ledge, which is located outside the opening and against which the window frame rests. Such windows are present in almost all typical buildings;
- ordinary, i.e. without protrusions. This design is used in buildings constructed according to individual projects.
Standard window measurements
Measure the length and width of the window opening with a tape measure, add 5 cm to these figures (on the mounting foam) and write down the data obtained. In addition to the dimensions of the window frame, you need to measure the depth of the slopes, as well as the depth and length of the window sill. The last parameter is calculated based on the distance between the boundaries of the vertical slopes, to which 8-10 cm are added.
Quarter window measurements
In this case, you will have to measure the distances between the horizontal and vertical edges of the protrusion and add 5 cm to the resulting figures for the mounting foam.
The video will tell you more about the nuances of measurements:
When ordering a metal-plastic window, do not forget to discuss with the manufacturer the number of double-glazed windows and the size of the profile, as well as the list and quantity of fittings and fasteners. If the climate of your area is not severe, and the windows do not face the roadway, feel free to order two double-glazed windows and a profile 6 cm wide. The lower the temperature outside the window and the more noise outside, the greater the number of double-glazed windows and the size of the profile.
The procedure for dismantling the old frame
To install plastic window yourself, you need to get rid of its wooden predecessor. Dismantling should be done carefully so as not to turn half of the wall, which will then have to be restored, wasting time, money and effort. At the same time, remember about safety precautions, because working with glass is very traumatic, and the slightest mistake can lead to a hospital bed.
First, remove the opening parts of the windows from the hinges. Remove the glass by first removing the glazing beads. Using a grinder or a hacksaw, make cuts in the box and other parts of the window block.
Using a mount, remove the elements of the old structure from the opening, which is then thoroughly cleaned of construction debris and dust.
Now it's time to learn how to install a plastic window yourself.
Installing a plastic window with your own hands: instructions
To install a plastic window yourself, prepare the tools and materials that will be needed during installation:
- self-tapping screws (4x35 mm, 4x25 mm);
- screws (5x60 mm, 3.8x25 mm, 3.9x25 mm);
- anchor plates;
- mounting foam;
- waterproofing and vapor barrier tape;
- mounting wedges;
- low tides;
- windowsill;
- plumb;
- level;
- PSUL;
- perforator;
- screwdriver;
- screwdrivers;
- a hacksaw with a fine tooth for trimming the window sill;
- metal scissors to cut the ebb.
Before installation, remove the sash from the window unit.
Install the mounting plates. The procedure is as follows: place the plate along the end of the window block, then turn it with the other end towards the room, fix it with a self-tapping screw (4x35 mm).
Please note: the distance between the plates should not exceed 600 mm.
Before proceeding with the installation of the structure in the opening, it is necessary to apply marks for fasteners and PSUL. Align the position of the structure in the opening (this is why a plumb line and a level are needed), considering the following: the maximum deviation from the horizontal or vertical should not be within 1.5 mm per 1 m of the structure, but not exceed 3 mm for the entire length or width of the product. Fix the frame using mounting wedges.
Bend the plates and mark with a pencil the places on the slope where they will be attached.
If your window is a quarter, then mark the outline of the adjacent opening on the outside of the frame.
Remove the frame, and drill holes in the places you marked, where the anchor wedges will then be inserted.
Drive dowels into the holes obtained.
Get rid of dust with a brush and vacuum cleaner. Apply sealing tape to the frame. In the case when you are dealing with a window with a quarter, the tape is glued to the outer part of the frame at a distance of 3-5 mm from the previously outlined opening contour.
In windows without a quarter, the insulation of the outer seam is carried out using special moisture-proof sealants after the installation of the structure.
Fasten the window block in the opening using mounting wedges and remembering to check the correct position.
Fix one upper side plate each and measure the diagonals of the window block. Their difference should be within the following limits:
Screw the remaining plates and remove the wedges, leaving only the bottom and diagonal ones, and then proceed to foaming.
Cut off the excess foam and stick a vapor barrier tape on the side of the room, overlapping the wall by 10-20 mm.
Attach waterproofing tape to the outside.
Install a tide. Insert it into the groove and screw it using self-tapping screws (4x25 mm).
Hang the sashes, then install the window sill. Adjust the handles if necessary.
Here you see install plastic window yourself not so difficult. The main thing is to have a desire and follow our advice.
Those who decide to replace old wooden windows with plastic ones may wonder: is it possible to install them yourself? Although this is a work of medium complexity, it is still within the power of those who have at least some building skills. Installing small windows in private houses is much easier than installing large windows on the balconies of apartment buildings. In this article, we will consider a more complex option for installing windows in a multi-storey building.
If you are not an expert in this matter, then it is better to ask a more experienced craftsman to calculate in advance what size plastic windows need to be ordered. Not to be too big or too small. When the windows are delivered to you, immediately check the presence of all components and fittings, and also check that the dimensions of the windows are accurate. Only after that sign the documents on the delivery of windows.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows
First you need to dismantle the old windows. To do this, you may need a hacksaw to cut the beams and window sill. You will also need a mount.If you do not live on the ground floor, then when the windows are delivered, they will be dismantled to make it easier for movers to bring them into the apartment. This is good, because you also need it. In addition, you will have to further disassemble the double-glazed windows by pulling out the glass, since they are the ones that give the bulk of the weight. The glass must be dismantled so that it is convenient for you to attach the window sill and ebbs. Dismantling of glasses is carried out by removing the plastic glazing bead.
Before proceeding with the installation of windows, it is necessary to attach fasteners for the mosquito net, since then it will be difficult, because if you do not live on the ground floor from the street, this will not be possible. To do this, attach the mosquito net to the window opening and screw the upper mounts, then the lower ones, but in such a way that the net can be removed, for example, in winter. Therefore, the bottom fasteners should be slightly lower than the size of the mosquito net.
Next, you can mount metal fasteners to the top and side of the window block. This is done using self-tapping screws, which must be available with fittings.
If the window openings are long, then usually several window blocks are ordered, which are interconnected with special fasteners (connector). It is necessary to immediately fasten the windows with a connector on both sides, and additionally fasten them with self-tapping screws.
If you ordered visors, then they must be attached to the top of the window block by screwing them into the profile with self-tapping screws. This is done after you have mounted the metal fasteners.
Next, you can start installing the window. If the windows are large, then you will need the help of at least one person to help lift and install the window. Also, when you attach the window to the wall, they must also be held.
Immediately try to level the window block, adjusting the wooden wedges under the bottom, aligning it horizontally.
After the window is approximately level, it can be fixed to the wall at the side and at the top. To do this, you will need a puncher and quick installation. After drilling a hole, bend the metal fastener, and then hammer a quick installation into this hole with a hammer.
After you fix all the metal fasteners, once again check the level of the window unit vertically and horizontally.
If everything is in order, then proceed to the installation of further details. First, you can fix the window sill; it is fastened with self-tapping screws to the lower profile from the side of the street.
After that, from the street, you also need to screw the ebbs into the lower profile of the window. Keep in mind that visors, sills, and window sills will not always be exactly the size you need. Most often they are slightly longer. Therefore, you will have to cut off the visors and ebbs with a grinder or metal scissors, and the window sill with a jigsaw or grinder. You will need a tape measure to measure the right size and a square to accurately draw the lines along which you will cut.
At this stage, you can blow out the openings between the windows and slabs with mounting foam. To save a little on foam, especially if the gaps are large, you can use foam.
Then the opening vents, which were removed, are attached to the window block. To do this, you immediately need to fasten the fittings (handles) to them, then put the window in special grooves.
In order for the window to open freely in all modes, the window must be configured with a special key (hexagon). In the grooves on which the window is planted, there are special holes for the hexagon, where you can adjust the window by twisting it with a key from above and below. The purpose of the setting is to make the window close and open easily in all modes.
When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many people wonder how difficult it is to install them yourself. The answer is a job of medium complexity. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for someone with no experience. Employees of firms doing this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows with their own hands by the owner of the premises cannot be compared with the hasty work of "professionals". They simplify the process indecently, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years now and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find really masters, then you can entrust the installation to them. If not - better spend the weekend and install yourself.
Construction of plastic windows
To properly understand the installation process, you need to have an idea about the design of windows. Let's start with materials and names. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.
The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made from a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.
In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, a blue insert is visible. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows, this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.
There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. The best choice if you need normal windows is the standard class. In the economy class, the partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment of installation. Premium comes at a high price with options that are essentially unnecessary.
If you want to have the best profile for plastic windows, take the class standard of any factory. There is no particular difference between the products of different companies. They have been standardized for a long time and all the stories of managers about the benefits are fairy tales. If they are manufactured on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have long been standardized.
Profiles for windows in the standard version are white, but can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - on request. Colored profile windows are more expensive than similar white ones.
window structure
To understand what is at stake in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.
It consists of:
- Frames. This is the base of the window.
- If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is in two parts, there is one impost, If out of three - two, etc.
- The opening part of the window is called the sash, the fixed part is called the capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically fastened together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses, providing tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to manufacturers, reduces heat loss through windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which an inert gas is pumped. It also reduces heat loss.
- Double-glazed windows are pressed against the frame with a cap - a thin plastic bar. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (usually black).
- Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and locking. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro-ventilation.
- To ensure tightness, rubber seals are installed on all parts - the frame, impost and sashes.
At the bottom on the outer side of the frame (the one that faces the street) there are drainage holes that are closed with special caps. Through them, the condensate that forms inside due to the temperature difference in the street and in the room is discharged to the street.
Another window has a low tide - a board on the outside that drains precipitation and a window sill inside. Lateral and upper parts from the side of the street and the room. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.
How to measure a plastic window
When ordering windows, you will need six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and slope. In order to measure everything correctly, it is necessary to determine whether you have made a window opening with a quarter or without.
You look at the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, an opening with a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest point: openings rarely have ideal geometry, so you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Pass the height as it is.
If the opening is even, the calculation is different. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width, 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides for mounting foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since all the same 1.5 cm are needed from above, and 3.5 cm from the bottom will go to install the window sill.
The length of the window sill and the ebb is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill are “drowned” a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The width of the ebbs is standard, so the nearest larger one is selected. On window sills, the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Some people like wide ones so that they can put something, someone prefers flush with the wall. So there are no rules here.
Even when ordering, you will need to specify how many and what parts will be in your window: whether or not there is a capercaillie, where it is located, how many sashes, which side they are on, how they should open. You will need to specify the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).
Preparation
If you change windows, do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with the dismantling of the old one. Problems usually do not arise: to break not to build. After dismantling, it is necessary to revise the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - with a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, it is necessary to remove all construction debris. Ideally, sweep everything up to the dust, otherwise the foam will not “grab” with the wall during installation.
If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. With loose wall material, they can be treated with binders: penetrating adhesive primers.
How to install correctly: choosing an installation method
There are two different methods: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame, through which an anchor is driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but the mount is more reliable.
This is an anchor bolt. They are placed three pieces on each side.
When installed without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the frame from the outside, and then they are attached to the walls. This, of course, is faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: with significant wind loads, the frame will warp or it will sag.
If you really don’t want to disassemble the window, you can also mount it on a plate, but use not narrow and thin ones, but thick and wide ones, which are still often used when installing the truss system.
In principle, small windows mounted on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is located in a high-rise building on a high floor, then installation with unpacking is necessary.
Watch an emotional and intelligible video below, which explains why it is better to use an anchor.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step by step instructions
Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the bearing capacity of which is small and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using a “layered” technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should be in a soft layer, then it will need to be fixed with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. the house is desirable on the anchor.
Installation with unpacking
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening, make sure they are compatible. After that, you can get to work. The process begins with the disassembly (unpacking) of the PVC window. Here are the steps:
- Removing the window sash:
- Close the window (handle turned down).
- Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They pry off with a screwdriver.
- There is a pin on the top loop that provides a movable connection. It is in the center and protrudes a little. They press on it until it drowns (you can take a metal plate, rest it on the pin and lightly hit the plate). The pin will pop out from the bottom. Now you can grab it with side cutters or pliers and, pulling it down, pull it out.
- Holding the sash at the top, open the lock. To do this, put the handle in a horizontal position. Having tilted the upper part slightly towards you, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.
The entire sash has been removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
- On the capercaillie, remove the double-glazed window. It is held on by pegs. They need to be removed, then the double-glazed window itself will be removed without problems. Remove the pins like this:
- Something narrow and durable is inserted into the gap between the bead and the frame. If there is no special tool, it is best to use a small spatula. Disassembly begins with one of the long sides.
- The spatula is carefully driven into the slot with a corner and gradually move the glazing bead away from the frame.
- Without removing the tool, they move along a little, again pushing the bead aside.
- So they go along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated, it is simply removed.
- With the short side, everything is simpler: the freed edge is hooked and, by turning the spatula, is removed from the groove. Grasp the freed edge with your hand and pull up.
Now you can try to remove the double-glazed window. Just be careful, it's heavy. If it doesn't work, remove one more of the glazing beads. Just make sure that the window is tilted so that the double-glazed window does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the double-glazed window yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.
- Removing the window sash:
- The freed frame along the outer perimeter is pasted over with a special self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With her, the window does not stand out so much.
- Remove the protective tape with the campaign logo. If you leave it, it will fuse too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
- The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. For its exposure, mounting wedges are used. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. Putting them on the window is set strictly according to the level in three planes. Pre-fix the position of the window. That's what mounting plates can be used for.
- Take a drill and a drill that matches the size of the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm recede from the upper edge. This is the first hole. The bottom one is about the same distance from the bottom corner. Between them, in a standard window, another anchor is installed: the maximum distance between the two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
- Having made a hole, they will check whether the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then they hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You can not drag: the profile should not bend. Repeat this operation as many times as necessary.
- Install drains outside. To do this, first, a vapor-permeable waterproofing (it is self-adhesive) is glued onto the outer part of the frame. Small strobes are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the tides are then inserted.
- A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then an olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is brought under the ledge of the frame and there it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- The tide also foams along the lower edge.
- Next, foam the opening. When installing plastic windows in the summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better polymerization of the foam.
- A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the frame contour - it is also recommended by GOST.
- Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps by 2/3 of the volume. If the gap size is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprinkled with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is filled by 2/3.
Foaming PVC windows during do-it-yourself installation can be carried out in several stages - it depends on the size of the gap
- Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using the tape, the slopes will need to be made plastic: plaster and mortar do not “stick” to it.
- Assemble all parts of the window. Only finishing work remains, and they are not a hindrance.
- A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the window sill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support pads made of hardwood treated with impregnations. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5 °).
Watch the video on how to properly install a window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.
The slopes are installed or sealed last. There is another video on this.
Installation without unpacking
The main subtleties are described above, so this chapter is small. Installation for this option begins with the installation of mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal.
They are installed at the same distance as the anchor: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.
Then do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is set to the level in the opening. Only they fix not the frame, but the plates and not on the anchor, but on the dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert the dowel, putting the plate in place, twist the dowel. Further, all actions are identical.
Now it’s clear why installers prefer them: it takes a decent amount of work with disassembly, anchoring, etc.: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tightly. No worse than anchors. For example, such as in the video.
Reading time ≈ 4 minutes
Installing or replacing windows is an important component of an expensive apartment renovation. Those who want to save their own money can refuse the services of apartment renovation masters and try to cope with this task on their own. Where to start and how to install plastic windows efficiently and quickly, we will tell you in our material.
Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is not as complicated as it might seem at first. In order for it not to complicate you and soon please you with the result, it is worth paying attention not to some nuances. Before starting the installation of the structure, you should clear the place in front of the window, set aside the furniture and cover the floor and heating radiators with a cloth. In addition, we prepare the window opening, cleaning it from the frame and sashes.
Nuances
When installing PVC windows with your own hands, consider the following nuances. Their design must be securely fixed. This is first. Secondly, in order to avoid foam settling and deformation of the window structure in the future, it is worth plastering the foam both inside and outside. Thirdly, in order to prevent the occurrence of distortions, it is necessary, using a laser or oil building level, to adjust the verticality and horizontality of the system.
Step-by-step instructions for installing plastic windows with your own hands
Detailed video instruction:
To install plastic windows, you will need a window structure with fasteners, mounting foam, a grinder, a level, a mount and a new window sill. Below we offer you a brief instruction of sequential actions, with the help of which you can correctly and efficiently install PVC windows with your own hands. The instructions are accompanied by photo and video materials, thanks to which the process of installing plastic windows with your own hands will look more visual.
1. First you need to dismantle the old window, frame and window sill using a grinder and a mount. First we will make cuts on the window frame, and thanks to the second we will pry it off to remove it.
2. Having removed the sashes, we begin to install a new window. Inserting the window frame into the opening, we fix it in the corners with temporary wooden wedges. Using the level, we look to see if the frame is evenly fixed. If yes, go to the next step.
3. Using anchor bolts and mounting plates, we fix the frame, as in the photo. Then, with construction screws, we fasten the window structure to the tree. It is strictly forbidden to use nails at this stage, they can cause deformation of the structure in the future.
4. The main purpose of installing plastic windows with your own hands is to secure the window structure. As soon as it is reached, we proceed to sealing, as in the video lesson at the bottom of the article. It is carried out using mounting foam, which should be evenly applied to the surface moistened with water. The foam used is not only a sealant that prevents street dust from entering the apartment space and provides good sound insulation, but also a reliable window fastening.
5. You can remove temporary wooden wedges after the foam has hardened. Then we move on to the so-called cosmetic stage of work.
6. Now we install the window sill, attaching it to the stand profile.
7. If the mounting foam used has frozen unevenly, it should be cut or trimmed. The resulting slopes are plastered both inside and outside with a special mixture.
8. After leveling the plaster, the slopes are painted or covered with the necessary elements. After that, it is permissible to remove the sashes on the frame and peel off the protective films.
A smart approach to self-installation of plastic windows is the key to their reliable and long-term operation. Taking into account the above instructions, you can easily install PVC windows without resorting to the help of a wizard and saving money.
