How to put the front door in the apartment. Do-it-yourself installation of a metal door: step-by-step installation of an entrance metal door. Structure fastening methods

Door manufacturers unanimously argue that the installation of an entrance metal door should be done by professionals. This position is understandable - everyone wants to earn. But if the customer has a desire or need to save a couple of thousand rubles, this work can be done independently. There is nothing complicated in technology.

On many sites, it is recommended to start replacing (installing) the door frame with a measurement of the doorway, followed by ordering the door from the manufacturer. This point of view has the right to live, but is applicable only for new buildings. There is nothing to prevent getting the exact dimensions of the opening in all directions.

When replacing doors, everything is not so simple - a measurement error of just 2 cm can lead to serious problems. You can get off with a little blood if the opening has to be expanded. If the opposite is true, then there are cash costs and a large amount of work ahead. Therefore, it is better to change the order of work and build the whole process along the following chain:

purchase materials and tools;
remove the old door;
clean the opening from plaster and a quarter (available in all Khrushchevs);
take measurements;
order a door
carry out the installation of the front door;
do the finishing work.

From the materials for work you will need:

anchors (anchor bolt) with a diameter of at least 10 mm and a length of at least 15 cm - 6 pcs. (four on one side, two on the other). Before buying, it is better to call the company where the door (or store) will be ordered and clarify whether anchor bolts are included;
steel fittings with a length of 10-12 cm and a cross section of at least 10 mm, if the door is welded to the lugs - 8-12 pieces;
silicone grease for bearings and eccentric;
mounting foam;
wooden or plastic spacer wedges (you can do it yourself, but it’s better to buy it) to fix the door frame in the desired plane - 8 pcs.;
garbage bags;
polyethylene film to protect furniture from dust.

If it becomes necessary to reduce the doorway, you will have to additionally buy a ready-made cement-sand mixture, and if large gaps are eliminated (more than 10 cm), also a brick.

The set of tools depends on how the box is attached to the wall. Here is a universal list, which should be guided in each specific situation.

So, to install an entrance metal door to an apartment with your own hands, you will need:

hammer drill (can replace an impact electric drill) - a must;
screwdriver with a set of bits or Phillips and slotted screwdrivers;
a grinder with a cutting and diamond wheel - is needed mainly when expanding the opening or eliminating a quarter in old-built houses;
semi-automatic welding - necessary when attaching the eyes to the fittings by welding or installing the door frame on the "captures";
mount or crowbar;
hammer;
bit;
roulette for 3 m;
spirit level or laser level;
furniture key No. 4;
cap head wrench for tightening the anchor bolt;
homemade plumb;
sprayer for water;
construction pencil or marker.

If the home kit does not have the power tools listed above, you can ask friends or acquaintances for them, or rent them. It is not advisable to buy - it will be cheaper then to entrust the installation of doors to professionals.

Preparing the doorway

Offering to first order a new door, and then remove the old one and prepare the opening, experts emphasize that if these operations are reversed, then the apartment will be without an entrance door for 1-2 nights. Practice shows that even professional measurers make mistakes when determining the size of the opening in the presence of old doors.

As a result of incorrect measurements, you will have to spend the night without doors for several days. Therefore, it is necessary to choose: either the correct dimensions of the door frame under the opening, or possible troubles in case of mistakes made.

Dismantling the old door

Dismantling of any door begins with the removal of the canvas. If it is on detachable hinges, it is enough to lift the door with a mount. Non-separable loops are removed from the box with a screwdriver - self-tapping screws are unscrewed. It is preferable to start from the bottom.

The wooden box is sawn through the center of the side posts and removed with a crowbar. To remove the metal box, the fasteners are cut off with a grinder: anchor bolts or eyes. After releasing the box from the mount, it is carefully squeezed out or knocked out. Applying too much force is dangerous - you can damage the walls.

Opening preparation

Removing the old door is the initial stage of installing the front door to the apartment with your own hands. Further:

platbands, old mounting foam, insulation, pieces of plaster remaining on the slopes, spacer wedges are removed, and all protruding metal elements are cut off. The threshold is disassembled;
a plumb line checks the vertical of the wall inside the opening. If there is a blockage inside the door of more than 1 cm, it must be removed with a perforator and a chisel - there will be difficulties when installing the door frame;
available in old houses, a quarter in the doorway is removed. This can be done with a grinder with a diamond blade, which is very noisy and dusty, or drill holes around the entire perimeter in small increments with a puncher, and then knock out the remaining concrete with a hammer and chisel. Pencil marking of the cut line will help to simplify the work;
measurements of the height and width of the opening are carried out, after which an order is made for the manufacture of doors;
the ends of the walls in the opening are carefully examined. If necessary, the protruding parts of the wall material are knocked down manually (hammer and chisel) or cut off with a grinder. Loose bricks and crumbling pieces of concrete are removed. Voids and cracks are treated with a deep penetration primer, and then sealed with cement mortar (1 share of Portland cement, 3 of sand). At the same time, small potholes can be ignored, and large ones can be laid with pieces of brick;
the next step for those who live in older houses: inspection and repair of the floor under the door frame. A wooden beam is mounted there, which becomes rotten from time to time. It must be removed. After that, there are two options: put a new bar or close up this place with a brick and fill it with a cement-sand mixture;
if the wall is made of lightweight concrete (gas silicate blocks, expanded clay concrete, etc.) or less than 15 cm thick, the walls of the opening are scalded with a metal frame. Such an operation is often necessary even if the house is panel;
the opening ready for installation should be 4-5 cm wider than the manufactured door (20-25 mm on each side). Such gaps provide high-quality installation and insulation, increase the strength and reliability of the structure.

Important: when expanding the doorway, the beam above the door must lie on each wall at least 5 cm.

Measuring and ordering a door

The speed and quality of work on installing the front door depends on the accuracy of the measurements taken. In height, they must be carried out in two places, the width is measured at the bottom, in the middle and at the top. To calculate the dimensions of the door frame, the smallest values \u200b\u200bof vertical and horizontal are taken, after which 40-50 mm are subtracted from them - for technological gaps.

Before going to the store, you need to decide on the location of the loops, i.e. decide which way the doors will open. The standard option is to the wall of the corridor. If the corridor is through, then in the opposite direction from the entrance - it is easier to bring furniture.

The openings of old houses are mostly non-standard. Therefore, it is necessary to choose: to expand the opening or order doors according to the available sizes. Experience shows that the second option loses a little financially, but otherwise it is preferable (the customer avoids the noisy, dirty and time-consuming process of fitting the opening to the size of the door block), especially since the order in almost all companies is carried out the next day.

Another important point when ordering - insulation should be not only in the door leaf, but also inside the door frame.

Step by step installation instructions

Depending on the material of the walls, the condition and thickness of the opening, several methods are used to install the entrance doors:

anchor bolts through technological holes in the box;
welding eyes with pieces of reinforcement or an iron bar driven into the wall;
with metal grips.

We immediately note two points:

During welding, changes occur in the structure of the metal, as a result of which it loses its strength. When trying to break in, this affects - a door with lugs is easier to tear out of the wall (for apartments, this is unprincipled). Therefore, with the choice available, you should always choose to install the door on anchor bolts - it is easier to attach them to the wall;
the technical regulations for the installation of doors provide for a minimum number of fixation points for the box with the wall - 10 (3 vertically and 2 horizontally). Studies have shown that the use of modern materials for fittings and eyelets makes it possible to get by with 6 points (4 from the side of the hinges and 2 in the area of the lock). The safety of the apartment does not suffer from these changes.

Fixing the box with anchor bolts

The use of anchor bolts for mounting the box has become widespread. Therefore, the probability of buying such doors tends to 100%.

Consider step by step how to properly install a metal front door on the anchor yourself.

Step 1. Locks and handles are attached to the door leaf (most often the locks are already embedded in production). The door opens and closes several times - the smoothness of the hinges and the operation of the handles are checked. At this time, it is necessary to check the operation of the locks.

If the crossbars hardly enter the holes cut out in the box, most likely the door needs to be replaced, since the geometry was broken during assembly. Agree, the door block is easier to replace under warranty before installation than after. It is necessary to remember one more thing: many door manufacturers remove the warranty on them if self-assembly was carried out. In our case, the warranty remains.

Step 2 The canvas is removed from the hinges, regardless of whether they are external or hidden (hidden). The box is placed in the opening on 2 thin (1-2 cm) linings. With the help of a plumb line and a level, a vertical position is found along the front of the door and its ends.

Step 3 The resulting position is fixed with wedges. Again, the geometry of the exposed box is checked - an error of a few mm violates the operational characteristics of the door.

Step 4 The door leaf is hung and opens at 45 o . If everything is done according to the instructions, it will remain in this position. Spontaneously opens or closes - you need to continue adjusting the verticals.

Attention, it is important: manufacturers of hidden (internal) hinges indicate in their installation instructions that the door should have a slope towards the corridor of several degrees. If not, the warranty is void. Each model has different numbers. Therefore, before setting the vertical, you must carefully study the instructions. As a last resort, go to the Internet and find these recommendations on the official website of the manufacturer.

Step 5 The door is taken off its hinges again. In the area of the technological hole, the insulation inside the box is removed - it can be wound around the drill. After that, holes up to 15 cm long are drilled with the same diameter as the anchor.

Attention: if there are lugs, but you want to install the door on anchor bolts, you can drill holes for them in the box yourself. To do this, you need a drill for metal with a diameter of 4-5 mm exceeding the cross section of the anchor.

Step 6 From the side of the hinges, using a hammer and a metal insert, the anchor bolts are driven into the holes until they click, which means that the anchor is seated on the plate inside the box.

The bolt is tightened with a socket wrench. After each fixation point, the vertical of the door is checked. If necessary, the bolt is loosened - the box moves away from the wall or is clamped - it is attracted to it. The fixing process is completed by installing anchors from the lock side.

Step 7 Silicone grease lubricates the hinge bearings. The door leaf is attached to the hinges. The smooth running of the door, the operation of locks and handles are checked.

Step 8 Insulation is glued (if the manufacturers have not installed it in advance). The clamping force of the porch to the box is checked. If necessary, it is adjusted with an eccentric located at the point where the handle tongue enters the door frame.

All of the above work does not cause difficulties. The main thing is to constantly control the geometry of the box.

Installation of the door frame by welding

A number of manufacturers produce door blocks with lugs on the box. In this case, you should not think much about how to properly install the front door by welding.

First, you can ignore the lugs and mount the box on the anchor, as discussed above.

Secondly, the step-by-step algorithm for performing work is almost identical to the one above, with the exception of points 5 and 6.

Minor changes:

through holes in steel plates, the wall is drilled to a depth of 12-15 cm;
pre-prepared pins or fittings are driven into the holes obtained;
semi-automatic welding eyes are welded to the pins.

As you can see, the changes are minimal.

Fastening the box with hooks

This method is used in cases where anchor bolts or pins driven into the wall become loose during operation of the door (fragile wall material or they are less than 15 cm thick). In these cases, a metal lathing of the wall is made along the perimeter of the opening.

Plates 4-5 cm wide are welded to the frame of the door block from the side of the apartment, with a length that reaches the lattice plates. There must be at least 10 such lugs in total.

The door is set vertically, fastened with wedges, and then welded to the crate. The installation process is described in detail above.

With this method of fastening, the platband from the outside will not allow the door to fall out (press out) into the apartment. Welding will not allow tearing towards the corridor.

Hardware installation

Manufacturers of doors from fittings do not install only handles - they can be damaged during transportation (the locking mechanism itself is already installed). It is necessary to assemble them before installing the box - you need to check the progress of the door leaf, the operation of the locks and the geometry of the exposed box.

Handles can be mounted on a socket and a bar. The former are currently popular.

To install a door handle with a rosette, perform the following steps:

twist a decorative strip (socket) from both handles;
insert a square into the door;
put on the square from the outside and inside the handles themselves;
fasten the handles to the door leaf with special self-tapping screws (with sawn heads);
insert a threaded pin from the outside for attaching the handles to each other - it prevents the handles from being removed from the side of the corridor;
screw sockets.

Final stage

At the final stage, the finishing work of the technological process of installing the door is carried out, as well as finishing the slopes and the economy class door leaf.

After installing the box, it is necessary to foam the gap between the wall and the door block. Foam performs several functions at once:

is an additional fastening of the door frame;
serves as a heater;
protects the apartment from corridor noise.

Before filling the gap, the box on the side of the apartment is sealed with masking tape so that foam does not get in, and the wall is moistened with water to remove dust. The foaming process is carried out in two stages. First, a thin layer of foam is applied from the inside to the outer casing through the technological gap.

Such an order of work will not allow the foam, when expanding, to go out between the wall and the metal casing in the corridor. After 15 minutes, when the expansion process is completed, you can fill the rest of the gap with foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off with a knife. Remove the masking tape from the box.

Instead of foam, you can close the gap between the block and the wall with cement mortar or putty. But it is more expensive financially and more difficult to implement. The installation process is completed by removing the protective film from the door leaf and installing decorative plugs on the holes with anchors.

Finishing

At the delivered door, the slopes and the part of the wall adjacent to them remain open (platbands are needed). In addition, for economy class doors, the inner side of the door leaf requires further finishing: powder coating or paneling with veneer or plastic panels.

Slopes can be installed from GKL (the process is described in detail in the work: ""), plastic or sealed with putty. But the most popular option is to finish with an additional bar. The dobor can be supplied complete with the door by the manufacturer.

Attention: for more details on installing the additional bar, see the following material.

Conclusion

Installation of entrance metal doors can be done independently. This requires appropriate tools and materials, a good assistant and, most importantly, desire. The technological process is not very complicated, but requires compliance with the order of work:

the old door is removed;
the opening is cleared of the remains of plaster, insulation, metal fasteners, etc.;
the verticality of the walls inside the opening is checked. If necessary, part of the wall is removed;
measurements are taken;
the door is ordered or bought ready-made;
the ends of the walls in the opening are inspected and, if necessary, restored;
the threshold is audited under the removed door block;
handles are installed in the delivered door, after which it is checked for the coincidence of the geometry of the box and the leaf;
the canvas is removed from the hinges, and the box is installed in the opening and set vertically in all planes, after which it is fixed with wedges;
the door leaf is placed on hinges to check the verticality of the installed box;
the canvas is removed, and the door is attached to the wall with anchor bolts or with the help of lugs;
The technological gap is closed with mounting foam, after which the door is installed on the hinges;
final technological work is being carried out.

Rules for installing an entrance metal door to an apartment

Gone are the days when, to install a metal door, it was enough to invite a familiar welder and build an iron structure in a free style at the entrance to the apartment. Since the fashion for iron doors has taken root among the urban population, standards and rules have been developed and approved, the violation of which is punishable by law.

The metal door installed in the apartment must comply with regulatory documents

On the territory of the Russian Federation, there are several regulatory documents that regulate the procedure for the manufacture and installation of metal doors in residential buildings.

GOST 31173–2003 regulates the technical conditions for the installation and operation of door steel blocks;
PPB (fire safety rules) describe the procedure for installing a metal door in residential and commercial buildings;
SNiP 21.01.97 and SP 1.13130.2009 determine the dimensions of the door block, the direction of opening of the door leaf, the height of the threshold and other technical indicators.

It must also be borne in mind that the arrangement and transfer of a doorway in multi-apartment buildings that do not correspond to the original project are equated with redevelopment, which must be coordinated with architectural services without fail.

Doors can have standard dimensions or be made according to a special project. There are the following standard sizes of metal door blocks (height x width according to the leaf size):

The size of the door frame, in accordance with GOST and the intended purpose of the product, is tied to the dimensions of the door leaf.

Installation should be carried out by a specialized organization, it is better to give preference to a team of assemblers from the manufacturer of metal doors. Installation work is allowed for personnel who have completed a training course and are equipped with the necessary tools and materials.

The main requirements, according to the documents, are the use of reliable fastening material. So, anchor dowels and threaded connections with a diameter of at least 10 mm are used. The distance between them should not exceed 0.7 m. Anchor plates and steel pins are used as additional fasteners. The gaps are filled with materials that have a low shrinkage coefficient and high thermal insulation properties:

sealing compression (pre-compressed) PSUL tapes;
mineral or basalt wool;
silicone or acrylic sealant;
mounting foam;
polyurethane cords.

Painting and impregnation of joints with primers or other binders is not recommended.

The rules require the door to have a vertical orientation in all planes, regardless of the position of the mating walls.

If after installation it seems to you that the door is not quite level, you need to check not only the position of the door block, but also the walls. It often happens that the walls are not aligned in height, and this gives the impression of a "littered" door frame. The door works properly only in a strictly vertical state, so the installers cannot change its position for the sake of visual perception.

In residential areas, the minimum allowable size of a steel door is 1.9 m high and 0.8 m wide. In commercial buildings, a minimum width of 1.2 m is set, due to the increased flow of people (with the likelihood of evacuation in an extreme situation).

In administrative and commercial buildings, the front door must have a width of at least 1.2 m, based on a large flow of people during evacuation

The mounting gaps between the door frame and the leaf, established by SNiP, are 25–40 mm. The distance between the border of the doorway and the metal frame should be from 2 to 3 cm, while at the end of the assembly they are carefully filled with cement mortar (in wooden houses, an adjusting bar is used - a cut, which is cut out taking into account the existing dimensions of the door frame).

Doors of industrial production without fail pass tests and certification. Information about the technical and operational characteristics is reflected in the passport and identifier. For example, SNiP sets the minimum level of sound insulation, which should not be lower than 20 dB. Depending on the class of the product, the parameters of water and air permeability change. The range of volumetric air permeability at 100 Pa is from 9 to 27 h/m, the limit of water tightness can vary from 200 to 600 h/m.

An important point in coordinating the installation of steel doors is compliance with fire safety rules. There are mandatory conditions that must be considered during installation.

The door opens outward, in the direction of the escape route.
The open sash does not interfere with access to adjacent rooms.
The width of the door clearance is at least 0.8 m.
The door does not block the opening of adjacent doors.
Between the wall and the door there is a free space of at least 1 m.

Upon completion of the installation work, a standard document is drawn up - an acceptance certificate, which confirms the installation in full and stipulates warranty obligations.

What you need to install an entrance metal door

The main instruction that should be relied upon during the assembly of a metal door is the technical passport. It gives the installation diagram and the specification of the attachment points. There are a great many types and models of steel doors, each has its own design and installation features. Since the main purpose of the iron door block is protection against breaking and entering, manufacturers are constantly improving the internal structure of the locking mechanism, supplementing it with the latest developments and technologies.

Nevertheless, there is an established procedure for installing doors. For a successful installation, you need to prepare the following tools:

In addition, for the installation of slopes, you will need a dry concrete mix, a container for mixing the mortar (bucket or trough), a trowel and spatulas. Rubber seals are usually included in the delivery. But polyurethane mounting foam must be purchased independently. The bucket is also useful for cleaning up debris that is formed during the preparation of the wall opening for the installation of doors.

To work with professional polyurethane foam, you need a special gun

In the event that the door is installed in a wooden frame, instead of a puncher, you need a chain saw and a set of chisels.

How to install an entrance metal door

Self-installation of the door block is justified from the point of view of economy. But if gross errors are made at the same time, then the whole effect will be blocked by the cost of repairs, which will be required very soon. Therefore, it is necessary to soberly weigh your strengths and abilities, carefully study the installation manual, and only after that make a responsible decision.

Preparatory stage

Before installation, it is necessary to prepare the work site, level the wall opening, remove debris and deliver the door unit to the installation site. Plaster is removed from the inner surface of the doorway, the remains of mounting foam and dust are cleaned off (it is recommended to treat the walls with a primer of the Betonkontakt type).

The primer neutralizes building dust and strengthens the material of the treated surface.

Most often, doors are transported assembled, in wooden or cardboard packaging.

The weight of a high-quality metal door with a metal thickness of 1.5 mm can exceed 100 kg. Therefore, unloading, lifting and installation is carried out by a team of at least two people.

There must be no furniture or foreign objects in the installation area. The door leaf must not encounter any obstacles during opening.

Frame installation

Before installing the door frame, it is necessary to separate the canvas from it. This is achieved by detaching the hinges - removing or unscrewing, depending on the type of canopies. Further actions are performed in the following order.

The frame is installed in the doorway and preliminary alignment is carried out. The threshold is rigidly placed on the floor, and the vertical posts are located along the wall. Depending on the project, the frame is aligned along one of the planes of the doorway. To save internal space, apartment metal doors are usually mounted along the outer plane of the opening (outward opening). But installation is not forbidden in the middle of the wall, when the distance from the frame to the edges is approximately the same.
The location of the door frame is selected according to the specific site conditions.
By means of wooden or plastic wedges, the frame is fixed in the desired position. The threshold is set strictly horizontally, according to the level of the finished floor, the side posts - in two vertical axes: in the plane of the door (along the canvas) and in a direction perpendicular to it.
Install anchor fasteners - without full tightening, only by surprise. Then the door leaf is suspended and the frame is finally aligned. In this case, attention should be paid to the width of the gaps between the canvas and the edges of the frame. If the installation is carried out correctly, the gaps will be the same size everywhere. A sign of a quality installation is the stable position of the door leaf when opening. The door does not swing open and does not close on its own, but moves easily under the control of a human hand.
If there are no mounting holes in the door frame, they are drilled independently
Having finally set the position of the door frame, the canvas is removed and the frame is firmly fixed. At this stage, it is important not to overtighten the threaded connections. Some installers, out of inexperience, tighten the nuts with all their might, while deforming the sidewalls, which will adversely affect the operation of the door later. In order not to be mistaken, it is necessary to measure the tightening force with changes in the verticality and straightness of the rack. Experienced craftsmen break the operation into two circles, the first time tightening the bolts at half strength, and the second - with maximum effort. We remind you once again that the diameter of the mount must be from 10 mm, the length must be at least 15 cm. The tightening sequence is as follows:
- the middle anchors of the racks are tightened;
- the upper and lower anchors of the sidewalls are twisted;
- two bolts are fixed on the threshold;
- fasteners are tightened on the upper crossbar.

The gap between the frame and the wall is filled with foam, mineral wool or other filler. Complete drying of the foam occurs after 24 hours, but installation can be continued after the surface layer has set (30-40 minutes). To improve adhesion and accelerate drying, the gap is moistened with water before pouring the foam.

Before applying the foam, the wall and frame surfaces can be moistened with water to improve adhesion.

Door leaf installation

The installation of the door leaf must be carried out together, as this is the heaviest element of the structure. If the hinges are hinged, the canvas in an open position at 90 in relation to the frame is lifted above the canopies and put on from above. If the hinges are internal, the door is attached in accordance with the diagram of their installation. For convenience, one or more boards are placed under the bottom edge of the canvas as a support.

After mounting the door frame, a metal sheet is hung on the hinges

Hardware installation

The last step before finishing is the installation of control fittings: a door lock, a handle, a peephole and a door closer. If all these elements are present in the kit, then the instruction manual will definitely contain a detailed diagram and installation instructions.

The set of factory-made doors has all the necessary fittings

Finishing

Finishing works consist of installation of platbands and slopes. Platbands hide all unsightly areas and decorate the appearance of the door. The slopes serve the same purpose, but have a different structure, since they are installed in the recess of the doorway. In addition, slopes significantly increase the strength of the entire structure if they are made of cement mortar. On the inside, ready-made plastic panels or drywall sheets are often used as slopes. This solution facilitates installation, but in the interests of strength, it is better to give preference to full-bodied slopes consisting of hardened cement with sand. To reinforce the slopes, reinforcing meshes made of metal or synthetic fiber are used.

The rest of the depth of the doorway is closed with additional elements, and platbands are installed on the front side

Features of installing an entrance metal door to an apartment

Modern multi-apartment houses are made of bricks or precast concrete blocks. There are also combined standard projects. But in any case, when installing a metal door in such houses, one has to deal with stone walls. All the information above applies to such apartments.

The only important reservation that needs to be made concerns the preparation of a doorway in panel houses. The fact is that the walls, consisting of cast reinforced concrete, are strictly forbidden to ditch, cut or split. This leads to disturbances in the distribution of the static load of the entire building as a whole and can cause unexpected consequences. For example, there were cases when, as a result of slotting block walls, floor slabs were displaced, and the building was transferred to the emergency category. Excessive vibration during work with a puncher spreads throughout the house and sometimes leads to cracking of glass on windows and other unpleasant consequences.

For these reasons, when preparing a doorway in a panel house, it is strictly forbidden to expand the dimensions of the hole in the wall. If it is not possible to choose the right size of the door for the existing opening, the only right decision will be the manufacture of a door block according to an individual project. However, if the opening is large, and the door is planned to be smaller, you can narrow the dimensions using brick or block masonry.

Reducing the size of the doorway can be done using brickwork

Video: installing an entrance metal door in an apartment

Features of installing an entrance metal door in a wooden house

A wooden house differs from a stone one in that it shrinks significantly in the first few years after construction. The wood gradually dries out and decreases in size. This leads to a reduction in the size of the building as a whole by 3–5%. Ideally, in order to install an iron door in a log house without problems, you have to wait a few years. But in our time, such a term is an excessive luxury. Therefore, an original technology was invented for plastic windows and metal doors.

Within a few years after construction, the wooden elements of the house dry out and decrease in size, as a result of which the door and window openings change their geometry.

The bottom line is that in place of the upper plank, free space is left, which will gradually be filled with drying wood. To compensate for vertical deformation, the metal frame is joined to the wooden partition of the log house through a special beam - gun carriage.

The procedure will be as follows.

After 3-4 years, when the building settles, the gaps are cleaned of tow and filled with mounting foam.

In old log cabins that have stood for 10 years or more, this problem is also present, albeit on a smaller scale. The house can be deformed under the influence of a strong temperature difference or during severe frosts. Therefore, the technology of installing metal doors on carriages is used everywhere. Plastic doors and windows are mounted in the same way.

Video: installation of a metal door in a wooden house

Features of installing an entrance metal door in aerated concrete

Blocks of foam and aerated concrete are widely used in the construction of low-rise buildings. Light weight, low cost and excellent thermal insulation properties contribute to the popularity of this material among developers. However, everyone knows the weak point of the blocks - their porous structure. A nail hammered into an aerated concrete wall is pulled out by hand without much effort. How to fix a metal door in such conditions?

The way out is quite simple and logical. If the binding to the wall is not reliable enough, then you need to strengthen the frame. In the case of foam concrete, it is customary to design a double frame for an iron door. Moreover, the distance between the outer perimeter of the frame and the inner one is equal to the thickness of the wall of foam blocks.

The double frame covers the entire aerated concrete wall and strengthens its structure.

Thus, the door frame is kept in the opening not only due to special anchors, which increase in size when the screw is screwed in, but also due to the structure covering the entire thickness of the wall.

When the screw is tightened, the lower part increases in volume and bursts the anchor inside the wall

To ennoble the internal space of such a frame, additional decorative elements are used. The rough parts of the frame - metal corners - are lined with wood or MDF panels, while the appearance of the doorway becomes quite presentable. The air space under the extensions serves as an additional obstacle to freezing and noise penetration.

Video: installing an iron door in aerated concrete

Installation of accessories to the entrance metal door

Not the last role in the correct operation of the door is played by fittings. The ease of use and the service life of the door depend on how the locks, handles and door closers are mounted.

Installation of locks in the iron door

The locking device is the main obstacle to forced entry. Therefore, special attention is paid to it. To install the lock, you will need the following tools:

screwdriver;
drill with a set of drills for metal;
screwdriver with interchangeable heads for various slots;
screws and self-tapping screws;
a set of files and files;
core, taps for threading;
Angle grinder (grinder) with a disk for metal.

Of the variety of locks for metal doors, only three types are used.

According to the type of locking mechanism and the level of secrecy, the following lock systems are distinguished:

disk;
crossbar;
level;
electronic;
magnetic;
cylinder.

For self-installation, cylinder and lever locks are considered the most suitable. Magnetic and electronic locks require special equipment for debugging and alignment.

Mortise lock installation

Consider the procedure for installing a mortise lock.

The position and place of the castle is determined. The recommended location height is 90–140 cm from the floor.
The core marks the boundary of the excavation. With the help of a grinder, the inside of the hole is cut out at the end of the door leaf. The edges are processed with a file, burrs and sharp edges of the cut are removed.
The lock is inserted into the hole, the attachment points are marked with a marker. In the marked places (usually from two to four), holes are drilled. Threads are cut using taps. The selection of the thread pitch is carried out depending on the available screws.
The exit point of the keyhole and the drive of the handle are determined on both sides of the canvas. The lock is applied to the door leaf, the desired points are marked with a marker.
Holes for fastening the lock are drilled with an electric drill
Holes are drilled with a margin of several millimeters, sharp edges are rounded off with a small file to avoid cuts and abrasions on the hands.
Installing and fixing the lock in the door. The operation of the mechanism is checked.
After installing the lock, its mechanism is fixed with a bolt included in the delivery.
The mate is cut out on the frame. To do this, mark the exit point of the lock bolts and make a corresponding hole on the side pillar of the door frame.
After checking the operation, the lock is lubricated, and a counter plate is attached to the frame.
The counter plate is designed to hold the locking elements inside the door frame

Video: how to properly insert a lock into a metal door

For those who intend to install the lock on their own, information on installing a padlock will be useful. The procedure is somewhat different from the previous one.

Video: installing a padlock on a metal door

How to install a closer on a metal door

When choosing a closer, they use a classification according to the width of the doors and the power of the power unit (spring or hydraulic mechanism). The right choice plays an important role in the subsequent operation of the door. There are seven types of closers:

75 cm - 20 kg;
85 cm - 40 kg;
95 cm - 60 kg;
110 cm - 80 kg;
125 cm - 100 kg;
140 cm - 120 kg;
160 cm - 160 kg.

The first number indicates the width of the door leaf, the second - the mass of the door leaf. In addition, closers are divided according to the fixation point of the drive (inside or outside the door).

Hidden design. The spring is located inside the loops.
Bottom fixation. It is rarely used, since the operation of such devices is difficult.
Top fixation is the most common type. The mechanism is in sight, easy to maintain and adjust.

Mounting the door closer is a simple matter, especially since its kit necessarily includes installation instructions. All fixing materials are included, as well as templates in 1:1 scale, with which the markup is made.

Here is a typical step-by-step instruction for installing a door closer (using the NOTEDO DC-100 as an example).

The template is attached to the surface of the door with adhesive tape and marking is made on it.
The holes for the closer are drilled according to the template that is included in the delivery.
Holes are drilled with a drill of the desired diameter.
The closer is dismantled - the lever is separated into two parts.
The closer is fastened to the door with standard self-tapping screws.
The power unit ("shoe") is installed on the door leaf through the prepared holes. The other part of the lever is attached to the frame.
The length of the lever is adjusted according to the attached instructions. When the door is closed, the closer lever should be perpendicular to the leaf.
When closed, the closer lever should be perpendicular to the door leaf

Video: door closer installation instructions

How to install a handle on an entrance metal door

The method of mounting the handle depends primarily on its type and design. Today, the variety of products in this category of goods is simply immense. Handles are stationary and rotary. The former are reinforced with countersunk screws so that the handle cannot be twisted from the outside. To install the rotary handle, it is necessary to make a through hole through the door leaf. The sequence of actions is the following.

The installation point is measured. The handles are fixed at a height of 1–1.1 m from the floor and 10–15 cm from the edge of the canvas.
Depending on the design of the device, holes of the required diameter for fastening are marked and drilled.
The rotary handle mechanism is installed, the outer and inner levers are connected.
Before installing decorative overlays, the operation of the handle is fully checked, moving parts are lubricated.
Installation is completed by tightening the fixing screws on the inside of the door.

The sequence of mounting the rotary handle of a metal door is described in detail in the instructions for its installation.

As can be seen from the above instructions, simple metalwork tools and an electric drill with a set of drills are required to install the handles. Additionally, you will need screwdrivers for screws with different slots (flat and cross-shaped). Each door handle model comes with a detailed description and installation diagram. Before starting installation, it is advisable to study them carefully.

How to close the slopes after installing a metal door

The appearance of the opening after installing the front door can hardly be called attractive. To hide the traces of installation work, facing works are carried out on the inside and outside.

Decorative slopes hide unsightly sections of the wall after installation work is completed.

Where it is impossible (or insufficient) to install platbands, slopes are mounted.

Slopes can be made from the following materials:

plastic panels;
drywall;
layer of plaster;
decorative stone or tile.

According to the author, who has extensive experience in construction, no matter how comfortably and quickly slopes are built from various types of panels, preference should still be given to traditional methods of finishing. Cement mortar plaster not only looks great and does not require maintenance, but also solves the main task assigned to the front door - it increases reliability and prevents burglary. You can talk about panels if their location is inside the apartment. If the slopes are made from the outside, they must first of all be strong and non-separable.

To make slopes from cement mortar, it is necessary to purchase a ready-made dry sand-concrete mixture. All information about the method of preparing the solution is contained on the package. The time and sequence of preparation of the mixture are detailed on the bag.

If the apartment is located in a damp entrance, table salt is added to the solution during mixing (at the rate of 1 kg of salt per 10 liters of solution). This will make the composition resistant to moisture.

The order of work will be as follows.

Beacons are installed along the perimeter of the door. You can use finished products or adapt wooden slats for this. The convenience of metal beacons is that after the plaster has hardened, they can be left inside the slope.
Beacons and corners are fastened with a quick-hardening solution of alabaster
Paint corners are attached to nails, staples or mortar of alabaster along the outer perimeter. The fixation must be reliable, since a rule or spatula will be pulled along the corner.
The cement mortar is kneaded until a thick consistency is reached. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed with an electric mixer so that there are no dry lumps in it.
The surface of the wall is treated with a primer. It is preferable to use deep penetration compounds, this will further increase adhesion.
After the primer dries, with the help of a trowel, a solution is thrown onto the walls, gradually filling the space between the beacons. When the solution becomes sufficient, the excess is pulled along the beacons with a spatula or a short rule.
The layer of plaster is covered with a fine-dispersed putty
The operation can be divided into several stages. This is allowed when the internal volume of slopes is large. If the break in time lasted more than a day, before applying a new layer, the previous one is abundantly wetted with water. First, the side planes are filled, and the upper part is plastered last.
After the plaster has dried, a thin layer of putty is applied on top, which eliminates minor defects and levels the surface of the slopes to an ideal shape.
The last step is painting or tiling. Any type of ceramic tile, natural stone or tile fits perfectly on a leveled slope.
After plastering, the slopes can be tiled

To further increase the strength of the slopes, fiber reinforcement is added to the solution, which is a long thread of durable synthetic material. It is placed in the finished batch when the mixer is no longer used.

Video: do-it-yourself door slopes

How to fix dobors on the entrance metal door

A very practical way of facing the inner surface of the doorway after installing the doors is the method of decorating with the help of extensions. Decorative panels can have any color and texture, so this finish can harmoniously fit into any interior. There are various types of extensions created from natural and synthetic materials:

metal;
tree.

Products from MDF are most widely used, since their price is low, and the range is huge. On sale there are extras for all occasions. But having at your disposal ordinary planed boards in the required quantity, you can make extensions yourself.

With the help of extensions, you can quickly and efficiently make the design of the doorway

The fastening of the facing material is carried out in different ways:

Whatever the fastening, the procedure for facing work is the same.

If possible (or necessary), insulation is placed under the extensions. This will create an additional obstacle to freezing the door in the cold season. Mineral wool or foam rubber is used as a heater.

MDF extensions are simply and quickly mounted on a pre-installed frame

Dismantling the entrance metal door

The need to dismantle a metal door arises when rebuilding or reconstructing old buildings. The procedure for removing a metal door is similar to dismantling any door. However, a metal door is a high-strength structure, so you need to approach its disassembly wisely.

Most often, when disassembling metal doors, difficulties arise with slopes. If they are made of high-quality concrete mortar, then during dismantling work you will have to sweat a little and take a sip of dust. Such slopes can be destroyed only with a powerful puncher with a sharp chisel at the end. During operation, it is necessary to use a respirator, goggles and gloves. Breaking the slopes in the upper part is carried out with special care, from a stable ladder or goats.

Video: dismantling the old front door and installing a new one in 30 minutes

No matter how tempting you are to save money when installing metal doors yourself, do not forget about the services of experienced professionals. The craftsmen who do this work every day are fluent in assembly technology and know all the pitfalls and installation features. In addition, even the most perfect do-it-yourself door is not covered by warranty.

How to mount correctly

As a rule, the front door can be installed by specialists from the company in which it was ordered, and few people risk doing it on their own. After all, in this case, the guarantee will be canceled automatically. But knowing how to properly install the structure is necessary in order to be able to control the work of the installers. This is what will be discussed in this article.

To protect your home from hacking, you need to make the entrance to it as reliable as possible. So far, nothing better has been invented than metal products, which are sometimes supplied with several locks, surveillance systems and alarms.

They are made of high quality material, which is very difficult to deform. But all these measures can be in vain if you do not follow the installation rules. After all, attackers may not touch the door itself, but simply pull it out of the opening. To prevent this from happening, be sure to follow how the installation is being carried out.

What is the attraction of a metal door:

The main advantage is safety in comparison with other materials. In addition to durable material, the safety of residents is protected by reliable locks and other means of protection.
Availability of any finishing materials.
The price range is quite wide., and will satisfy different categories of buyers.
Long life.
Excellent sound and heat insulation performance(cm. ).

Before installing a metal door, you should consult with friends. Perhaps one of them has already installed the door and will tell you a good seller or manufacturer. Ask the seller to show you the documents that indicate the characteristics of the doors.

Be sure to inspect the proposed purchase for the presence of such points:

The door must have a metal thickness of at least 2mm.
The door in the closed state should have small gaps closed by a seal (see) on the hinge side. If there are no gaps, then problems with closing cannot be avoided in the future.
The lock must be equipped with locking pins on four sides of the leaf. Such a device will not allow you to cut the hinges and squeeze the door.
Find out about the anti-corrosion capabilities of the product.

Important! It happens that inexpensive models are equipped not with steel, but with plastic pins. It is unacceptable!

What tools will be needed

Dismantling and installation of metal doors will require the use of a set of tools:

small crowbar or crowbar;
perforator;
Bulgarian;
level;
plumb;
hammer;
roulette;
wooden wedges;
anchor fastenings;
mounting foam.

Getting rid of the old structure

The main preparatory stage when installing the front door with your own hands is the removal of the old one. We dismantle the old door.

The dismantling of the replaced front door can be divided into the following stages:

The first thing you need to do is separate the old front door from the frame. If the old structure was fastened with collapsible hinges, then you should open the door clearly 90 degrees. After that, start lifting the old door up with an ordinary crowbar, do this until your design jumps off the hinges. In the event that the product is mounted on one-piece hinges (see), simply unscrew it with a regular screwdriver.
Next, start dismantling the base. In order to dismantle the box, remove all nails and anchors from it. After that, cut the side racks in the middle of the timber. Sawn racks are dismantled with a conventional crowbar.
After you have completed the above steps, it will not be difficult for you to get rid of the top and bottom of the door. It will be much more difficult for those people whose door frame is made of metal. Perhaps, in order to dismantle such a box, you will have to cut it out with a grinder.

After you dismantle the old front door, get rid of the falling off plaster and pieces of mortar. This can be done with a regular hammer. Do not forget to carefully remove old nails and sound and heat insulation residues (see).

Opening preparation

If there is an old door in the opening, it should be carefully dismantled. You can do it yourself, without waiting for the installers.

So:

If it hangs on collapsible hinges, just open it wide, substitute a crowbar or other lever under the lower end and lift the door leaf so that it jumps off the hinges.

If the hinges are one-piece, then unscrew the screws that hold the door in the box with a screwdriver or a simple screwdriver.

An empty box will be easy to dismantle if it is wooden. To do this, unscrew all visible fasteners from it - anchors or self-tapping screws, pull out the nails. If the box is firmly in the opening, then cut the side racks in the middle and tear them off with a crowbar. After that, the upper and lower parts of the strapping are dismantled without problems.
For dismantling a metal box fixed in the opening by welding, a grinder may be required. It cuts off all the fasteners that cannot be pulled out manually.

After dismantling the old one, clean the opening from the mounting foam, heat and sound insulation and everything that can interfere with the installation of a new one.

Preliminary measurements

Before installing the front door, we make markings. For the convenience of users, the door should be two meters high and 90 cm wide (see). Accordingly, the opening should be slightly higher and wider, taking into account the elements of the box and gaps.

The level of the structural floor plus is taken as zero:

thermal insulation - about ten cm;
screed - about five cm;
finishing layer of the floor - two to three cm;
the upper beam of the door frame - five to six cm.

As a result of adding all the values, we get the desired height at which the jumper will be (approximately 2.24 meters). It is better to take with a margin of a couple of cm.

Methods for fixing the door frame

The metal box can be attached to the opening in different ways:

Through the holes in the box profile
Using mounting plates

Fastening through holes in the frame profile

The installation rules allow the box to be fixed in the first way only if the thickness of the opening is more than 15 centimeters. Otherwise, the product can be easily pulled out of the wall along with the box. In addition, when attaching the box through the mounting holes made in it, the front door has to be recessed inside the opening.

The fact is that if you install the box flush with the outer wall, then the mounting holes will be at a distance of only 4-5 cm from the surface, and the fastening will be very unreliable. And if the wall is a monolithic concrete panel, then there is a risk when drilling holes for fasteners to stumble upon metal reinforcement, which is located at approximately the same depth.

Usually, the holes are provided by the manufacturers immediately, and the front door comes with special long anchor bolts for fastening and decorative plugs in the color of the box.

If there are no such holes, they must be drilled at a distance of about 30 cm. Subsequently, trimmings of reinforcement or steel bars at least 15 cm long and 12-15 mm thick are hammered into them, which are welded to the profile from the inside.

For reference. If for some reason the use of welding is not possible, after installing the box, the metal rods can be riveted with blows from a sledgehammer or a heavy hammer. In this case, you must act carefully so as not to damage the box.

With this method of fastening, technological gaps 10-15 mm wide should remain on each side of the racks of the box.

Fastening using mounting plates

The second method of fastening is more common and reliable. If you know how to install the structure correctly, you will look for doors whose frame is equipped with mounting plates with ready-made mounting holes.

There should be at least three of them on each rack. These plates allow you to install the door in the same plane as the outer wall, since they face the inside of the apartment and are attached to the opening at a sufficient distance from its surface.

Such boxes are attached to the walls in the same way as in the first case - with anchor bolts or steel bars, followed by welding. But the dimensions of technological gaps increase to 15-20 mm.

Advice. For an even more secure fixing, you can combine both methods using both the mounting plates and the holes in the box.

Front door installation

As in the case of interior doors (see), first a box is mounted in the opening.

Of course, the correct installation of the entrance doors implies their careful vertical and horizontal alignment, so the box must first be fixed in the opening with wooden wedges in order to be able to adjust its position.

The next steps are:

First of all, the rack with door hinges is aligned in two planes, for which a long level or plumb line is used.

When this is done, in the opening through the mounting holes are drilled perforator channels to the depth of the length of the anchors or pins.
After re-checking the level, the hinge post of the box is fixed to the wall by the methods described above: by screwing in anchors or driving in metal pins.
The next step is hanging the canvas on pre-lubricated loops. All fittings should already be installed on the door -, , peephole.
Proper installation of front doors requires alignment and a second frame post. To do this, close the door and, moving the rack, make sure that the gap between them is equal along the entire length and is 2-3 mm. After that, you can fix the feigned rack in the opening, making sure that the door fits easily into the box, and the lock snaps into place without effort.
Upon completion of the installation, the doors must be sealed with cement mortar or the gaps should be filled with mounting foam, after pasting the box with masking tape so as not to stain it.
When the foam or mortar is completely dry, you can start plastering the slopes or lining them with decorative finishing materials.
From the outside, the front door is decorated with platbands.

European way of fastening doors

If you are seriously wondering how to properly install entrance doors, then pay attention to the so-called European method of fastening. For it, external boxes of a special profile are made, which tightly cover the opening on both sides. They are made to order, given the width of the doorway.

The free space formed between the box and the wall is filled with cement mortar, which contains special polymer additives that increase strength. After it hardens, the wall with the box forms an almost indestructible monolithic structure.

Let's start leveling

How to put the door to the apartment: remove the remnants of the foam.

It is divided into the following steps:

check the verticality of the rack;
drill with a puncher in the wall through special mounting lugs, small holes, the diameter of which should be 15 millimeters, and the depth 100-120;
hammer pins into holes and fix the anchor bolts;
check the verticality of the rack again using the building level;

Now you can start hanging the door. To do this, pre-lubricate the hinges. The front door is practically installed with your own hands.

After all the procedures described above, install the door hardware (see). Now try to align the side post so that the gap between it and the door does not exceed 2-4 millimeters over the entire height. After that, fix the rack and repeat the operation with the second one. If everything is done correctly, you can start welding the rods or tightening them.

Now use foam to close the gap between the door frame and the wall. In order not to stain the canvas and the box, cover them with molar tape. Usually, one bottle of polyurethane foam is enough to handle the door, but you can also play it safe.

After about a day, the mounting foam will dry completely. Cut off the remaining foam carefully with a knife. After that, treat the space between the door and the door frame with ordinary plaster or other suitable material. Door installation completed.

Congratulations, you now know how to install your front door. Most importantly, remember that when installing the front door, you must be careful and accurate. If you follow everything exactly as indicated in our instructions, you will be able to install the front door yourself with high quality and reliability. After installation, you can choose trims suitable for your interior, just experiment with fittings, or leave everything in the basic configuration.

The reliability of entrance doors depends not only on the quality of the design itself, but also on compliance with the technology during installation. To perform the installation correctly and avoid serious mistakes, you should study the instructions in advance, carefully read each stage of work. With this approach, the front door with your own hands will not cause difficulties, and the end result will delight for more than one year.

Installation procedure

Replacing a door frame or installing doors in a new building includes several steps:

taking measurements;
opening preparation;
installation of a door structure;
sealing gaps;
finish.

Each process should be carried out with the highest quality, without haste, using reliable and proven materials. The door frame is fastened in various ways, so before installation it is necessary to choose the most optimal one in order to save materials and time.

You should be aware that the manufacturer's warranty is not issued in case of self-installation, so if damage appears during the installation process, you will have to repair it at your own expense.

To avoid buying low-quality goods, you still need to carefully remove the protective film in the store, carefully check the door leaf and frame, and then glue the polyethylene again with tape. You can finally remove the film only after the installation and finishing is completed - so the surface will remain clean and undamaged.

You should also prepare in advance everything you need for work:

Measurements and preparation of the opening

In order to take measurements, the boundaries of the door opening must be very clearly visible. Often the box is covered with a large layer of plaster around the entire perimeter, which makes it difficult to measure. Therefore, first, the platbands are removed from the loot, the excess solution is cleaned off, and, if necessary, the threshold is dismantled. If the new frame is wider than the previous one, measure the length of the support beam above the opening. It should be 4-5 cm more than the width of the door frame, otherwise the fastening reliability will be too low. When all measurements are completed, you can begin to prepare the opening.

Entrance door prices

Entrance doors

Step 1. Dismantling the loot

In an old brick building, dismantling work should be carried out carefully so as not to severely damage the masonry; the same applies to walls made of foam concrete. The door leaf is removed from the hinges, and then the grinder or hacksaw cuts the loot in two or three places. Then the box is hooked with a crowbar and removed from the opening.

Step 2. Cleaning the opening

Along the perimeter of the opening, after the removal of the loot, pieces of mortar remain, cracks and voids open in the masonry of the walls. Below, under the threshold, the destruction is especially strong: the brickwork crumbles, the old beams rot. All this should be removed, the solution should be cleaned with a perforator, and the opening should be leveled over the entire area.

Step 3. Seal cracks and voids

Knead the cement mortar and overwrite all small cracks. Deep cracks are clogged with pieces of brick and covered with mortar. If you need to raise the floor, lay out a new brick substrate or make a screed. It is not necessary to level the walls of the opening at this stage, since minor damage to the surface is possible during installation. The main thing is that there are no voids inside that contribute to the penetration of cold into the home.

Installation of entrance doors

When installing the doors, you will need an assistant, because it is very difficult to lift and insert a heavy structure on your own, even though the box and the canvas are mounted separately. Simplify the work of the presence of mounting ears on the frame and ready-made holes for wiring, which are made in the factory.

Step 1 Mounting the box

The door leaf is removed from the hinges and set aside. The box is lifted and placed in the opening so that the door opens outward. It is very important to level the structure, otherwise it will not close tightly or with difficulty, which is also undesirable.

It is necessary to check the vertical and horizontal of the box on each plane; if the protrusions in the opening interfere with alignment, they can be knocked down with a hammer or puncher.

To prevent the structure from moving during the installation process, its position is fixed with wooden pegs. It is desirable to have pegs of even shape and in the form of wedges, then it is much easier to adjust the level. But it is not recommended to use nails for this - the box may shift slightly, and you will have to level it again.

Step 2. Fixing the structure

You can fix the door frame in the opening in different ways, depending on the type of door and the material from which it is made. There should be at least 10 fixation points along the perimeter of the frame - 2 at the bottom and top, and 3 at both sides.

Option 1: fixing with anchors for eyes.

This method is suitable for almost all designs; the eyes are not made together with the body, and they are screwed to the doors made of wood and plastic with self-tapping screws. A perforator drill is threaded into the eye and a hole is made in the wall to a depth of 15 cm. An anchor is inserted there and tightened with a socket wrench. The anchor can be replaced with a steel pin made of reinforcement with a cross section of 10 mm, sharpening one edge and flattening the other with a hammer. The pin is driven into the hole until it stops and welded to the eye.

Option 2: installation of fasteners through the canvas. With this method, holes are made at the end of the loot; pins or bolts are deepened into the wall in the same way and fixed directly on the box. In a wooden structure, it is recommended to drill small recesses where the bolt heads will be hidden.

Fastening a metal door with anchor bolts

Option 3: fixation with metal grips. This method is used for installation in buildings with monolithic walls; the main convenience is that you do not need to drill or drill holes. The door frame is held from the outside by a special edging, and from the inside - by metal hooks welded to the inside of the loot.

The side on which the loops are located is fixed first; it is necessary to fasten from the top point to the bottom. After tightening the first bolt, you should check the position of the box with a level to avoid distortion. The vertical is controlled in the same way after the second and third bolts. When this side is fixed, hang the door leaf and check the tension of the box.

If the door opens easily, there are no deformations and gaps, you can fix the second side. The canvas is again removed and the vertical stand of the loot, as well as the threshold and the lintel, are bolted, not forgetting to control the position of the frame with a level. Hang the canvas again, check the ease of movement and tension. If the tension is too strong, loosen the fasteners a little.

Video - Installing the front door yourself

Step 3. Finishing the installation

Once again, remove the canvas so as not to stain the surface. The heads of the anchor bolts are closed with special plugs that match the color of the door leaf. The surface of the box is sealed with masking tape, then technological gaps and indents are blown out with foam.

Very often, instead of foam, a cement mortar with an admixture of alabaster is used - this increases the reliability of the structure at times. The solution is kneaded to a loose state and tightly clog the gap between the wall and the frame around the entire perimeter.

After the mortar has hardened, the opening is puttied and plastered, the adhesive tape is removed from the box, and the canvas is hung. Carefully check the operation of locks, handles, ease of movement. To make the doorway look neat, it is necessary to install platbands from the outside. They are screwed onto a wooden shell with self-tapping screws, drowning the hats in a tree and smearing it with putty. If the structure is metal, the platbands are fastened with bolts or rivets. From the inside, the opening is made, giving the doors a decorative and aesthetic appearance.

Video - Do-it-yourself front door installation

Video - Installation of a drywall slope on the front doors

Installation of entrance metal doors is a laborious process that requires certain skills. However, in order to save money, some people decide to do it themselves. In this article, we will take a closer look at this procedure.

First of all, we will prepare a tool for installing metal doors. So, you will need the following:

Perforator (preferably as powerful as possible). In its absence, you can use an impact drill with the appropriate nozzles.
Measuring instruments - tape measure, plumb line, level (ideally laser).
Bulgarian with a large circle.
Board, saw - this is needed to create pegs.
The material for filling the joints is polyurethane foam or cement mortar. The first option is simpler, and the second is more durable.
Fasteners (anchors, rods, etc.). It is better to buy them complete with a door.
Hammer and chisel.
Wrench for tightening fasteners of the appropriate size. Or a screwdriver with the correct nozzle.

If you do not have a puncher or grinder, and you do not plan to buy such an expensive tool, you can rent it. In many cities of the country there are organizations providing such a service.

A few words about measurements

The first step is to measure the width and height of the opening. You need to measure not from the box, but from the concrete (or brick) base. Only after that you can go to the store. There are two options:

Order a door for the size of the opening.
Buy a finished model with close parameters.

In the first case, the purchase will cost much more, but you don’t have to spend energy on expanding (narrowing) the opening. If the current canvas is a new sample, then it will be possible to choose a model that is ideal in size. In "Khrushchev" and other typical houses built in the USSR, as a rule, openings of non-standard sizes. Therefore, the installation technology involves expansion. This operation will require a lot of physical strength.

Before placing an order, decide in which direction the closure will be made. If your apartment is located against the wall and there is a distribution box hanging on it (with automatic machines and counters), then it is best that the handle is located on the other side. In this case, the canvas will not knock on the box.

We make expansion and preparation of the opening

Proper installation of a metal door begins with fitting the opening. If it fits in size, then you only need to level the original surface. To do this, we use a thick cement mortar. It is recommended to make alignment in several layers. We throw the mixture manually or with a spatula, after which we level it with a spatula.

Enlarging the opening is a very loud and dirty stage of work. Therefore, let your neighbors know about this so that you can choose the time when they will not be at home. First, we apply markings along the perimeter (U-shaped). So there are two options. The first is to take a powerful grinder with a large (at least 40 cm in diameter) disk on concrete and simply remove a layer of concrete of the required thickness. In this case, there will be a lot of construction debris.

The second, more gentle option:

We take a puncher with a drill larger than the thickness of the wall.
We drill through holes in the wall along the entire perimeter with a minimum step.
Using a hammer and chisel, we hollow out the excess concrete.

Important! It is necessary to leave a technological gap of several centimeters so that the position can be adjusted. The cracks will be sealed later.

This technique will take more time, but you will bring less discomfort to your neighbors. Finally, we level the surface.

Main front of work

How much it costs to install an entrance metal door worries many. Such a service will cost at least 4 thousand rubles (depending on size and complexity). Therefore, doing the work yourself is a rational option, especially when it comes to an inexpensive model, because installation in this case can cost more than the purchase itself.

Tip: if the weight of the complete structure is small, and you have enough strength to work with it, then you can not remove the canvas from the box.

So, you need to do the following:

The first step is to check the operation of the canvas. We insert the structure into the opening.
We check with the help of a level and a plumb line the verticality and compliance with the dimensions. It is necessary to achieve perfect accuracy - a misalignment of even a few millimeters will disrupt operation. If any surface irregularities are found, they must be eliminated.
Having achieved perfect fixation, the box needs to be fixed. To do this, insert wooden pegs into the existing gaps (at least 4 pieces for each side).
Having done this, once again check the evenness of the position.
Now we fix it with fasteners. In budget models, anchors may not be included, they will need to be purchased separately. It is advisable to consult with a sales assistant when buying.
The main rule is that there should be at least three fixation points on each side. Only then will the correct installation be guaranteed.
First we fix the side on which the loops are located. There are mounting holes on the box - through them we drill for the installation of anchors. If they are absent on the jamb, they will first have to be made with a drill with a drill for metal. We do 3 for each side with approximately equal steps.
After drilling the holes, insert the bolts and tighten the nuts securely. This procedure is carried out for all parties.
We insert the canvas (if we removed it). We check the smoothness of the move: the door should not spontaneously open. We install it in different positions. She must not walk in any of them. If such moments are observed, it is necessary to adjust the fasteners.
To adjust the position, loosen (tighten) the nuts. Pay due attention to this aspect - in the future it will be impossible to make adjustments.

Final stages of work

On this, the installation of the entrance metal door with your own hands is almost completed. Now you need to close the joint that has appeared. Mounting foam is a simple, but not the most reliable option. In addition, its use greatly facilitates the work of crackers. Therefore, we strongly recommend the use of cement mortar, in which alabaster should be added.

The work is simple:

We close the joint from the side of the apartment with any even material at hand (plastic panel, board, etc.). This will prevent the mixture from falling out into the corridor.
Armed with rubber gloves, we throw a solution into the slot from the side of the entrance. It must be filled out completely.
Using a spatula or trowel, level the solution.
We go into the apartment and remove the barrier.
We make putty on this side.

The cement mixture dries for a day (sometimes two). Therefore, at this time, try to reduce the operation of the door as much as possible in order to prevent cracking of the solution. Do not forget to check the operation of the locks and handles - they should work smoothly. In case of the slightest defects, ask for a replacement. We recommend immediately lubricating all moving parts (keyholes, hinges, etc.). WD-40 is perfect for this.