Any, even the most reliable and high-quality bath, over time, can become covered with cracks and roughness, turn yellow or rust. It is almost impossible to avoid this - even the mildest detergents and household chemicals lead to thinning and wear of the surface coating. In this case, the owner of the bath is faced with the question of buying and installing a new bowl. However, this is a rather expensive solution, which, moreover, entails the need for repairs in the room. Therefore, it is better to restore the bath - it will not require large expenses, and the work can be done independently.
There are three main methods that allow you to restore the appearance of old plumbing: applying a new enamel coating, restoration with self-leveling acrylic and using a special liner. It is better to choose a specific method, taking into account your own financial capabilities, the materials from which the bowl is made, as well as its condition.
In addition, it should be taken into account that such a solution has a number of disadvantages, since a bowl with a new coating will not have the same performance characteristics as that which was manufactured in an industrial environment.
- The materials that are used for the restoration of plumbing are less durable and not as strong, so the surface requires more careful and gentle care.
- When enameling a bathtub or restoring it with liquid acrylic, you may encounter the following problem: the original color of the bowl will show through the new coating (especially if the layer is too thin), changing its shade.
- During use and cleaning, the color of the bath may change under the influence of chemicals.
- Sharp or bulky objects will cause damage to the new coating even if they fall from a small height, and dyes (such as hair dyes) can leave indelible stains.
- Those who like to smoke in the bathroom will have to give up their habit, as a cigarette can leave an ugly burn on the surface.
However, at the same time, the restored plumbing is maintainable, and its properties directly depend on the quality of the materials and the accuracy of the work.
Despite the growing popularity of modern polymer compositions, enamel-coated steel and cast-iron plumbing is often found in modern homes and apartments. Metal is a strong and reliable material, but the enamel coating wears out quickly enough. Restoring an enamel coating is a fairly simple process that does not require special knowledge or skills.
True, this method of restoring the appearance of bathtubs has one significant drawback. Cracks that appear on the surface grow very quickly, the enamel begins to peel off, water accumulates under it, which leads to the appearance of an unpleasant odor, dampness and mold. In addition, this method is not suitable for bathtubs with a large number of small defects - they can be noticeable even after coating.
How to choose a composition for enamel restoration?
In order for the new coating to be strong and reliable, you need to choose a composition for the restoration of bathtubs. There are not many options, so for the right choice you need to know the main characteristics and properties of the compositions.
| Name | Manufacturer | Coating durability | Features of work |
|---|---|---|---|
| Russia, Germany | On average 5 years (subject to the conditions of application and operation, the indicator can reach 7-9 years) | Two-component enamel with a hardener that completely cures in 48 hours. Well fills all small defects in the surface of the bath. It is quite difficult to work with the solution, as it is very thick and “seizes” in about 60 minutes | |
| Russia | 6-8 years old | Two-component epoxy resin mortar. It can be used when there are no noticeable defects and damages on the bathroom. Requires fast work, as it hardens in about 70 minutes. In liquid form, it is toxic and can cause allergies. | |
| Tikkurila Company (Russia, Finland) | 10-15 years old | One of the highest quality, but expensive compositions for the restoration of plumbing. Working with the solution is quite simple, but it will be possible to use the bath for its intended purpose in at least a week | |
| Random House Company, Russia | 6-8 years old | Bathtub refurbishment kits, which include a two-component bowl coating, hardener and surface preparation |
reflex 50
Step-by-step instructions for the restoration of the bath with enamel
Stage one. Preparation of improvised means and materials
To enamel bathtubs, you will need the following tools:
The enamel that will be used to restore the bathtub must come with all the necessary components. To give the coating the desired shade, you can purchase a special tinting paste (if not prohibited by the manufacturer). In addition, it is very important to protect your mouth and nose with a respirator, your hands with gloves, and all work should be carried out only in a well-ventilated or ventilated area.
Stage two. Enamel preparation
Before proceeding with the enameling of the bowl, you need to thoroughly clean the surface, since the quality and aesthetic appearance of the coating depend on this.
| Step, No. | Description |
|---|---|
| Sprinkle the bath with an abrasive agent and clean it with coarse sandpaper. You can also use the grinding nozzle of an electric drill, as well as remove old enamel by sandblasting or hydrochloric acid diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 4. | |
| Treat areas with rust spots with a rust converter, wait 30 minutes and sand well. If there are deep cracks or chips on the surface, it is better to use automotive putty - there is a risk that the composition will not be able to fill them, and the enamel layer will turn out to be uneven | |
| Remove the remnants of the old coating and wipe the bath well using a rag or lint-free cloth. | |
| Fill the bowl with hot water, leave it for 10 minutes to warm the surface, drain the liquid and dry the surface. Make sure the tub is free of crumbs, fluff, or debris. |
The preparation of the bath must be carried out in exactly this sequence, without missing a single step, otherwise the enamel will quickly come off. The most clean, smooth surface of the bath is a guarantee that the new coating will be durable and reliable.
Stage three. Enamel coating
Combine all the components of the enamel as indicated in the instructions, mix the composition well. Divide it into two parts - for the base and finish coat. Apply the first layer with a wide brush - it should be thin, but as even as possible, without drops. It is better to start from the edges of the bowl, gradually moving down. The composition must be very well smeared so that it fills all the pores of the material. After applying the first layer, you need to leave it for 10-15 minutes, but you should not wait for complete drying, otherwise the enamel may become dusty, and then the work will be spoiled. Then apply a second layer with the same brush, the direction of the strokes is from the middle to the edges. Leave the bath for another 15 minutes and eliminate defects (even experienced craftsmen have them), using the brush in the same way. You can perform this procedure until the enamel becomes too viscous.
Sometimes spray containers are used to apply the mixture, but experts recommend avoiding this method, as bubbles and streaks may appear on the surface, causing the enamel to peel off. Instead of a spray gun, it is better to use a compressor - it will allow you to evenly distribute the composition along the walls of the bath and create a coating of the same thickness.
It is better not to use the bath for a week - that is how much is needed for the enamel to completely harden. The temperature in the room should be maintained at 23 degrees.
Video - bathroom restoration by enameling
Method number 2. Bulk bath
This method of restoring plumbing consists in the following: liquid acrylic is poured into the bowl, which subsequently hardens and forms a new coating. Compared to the surface enameling described above, it has a number of advantages.
- Acrylic is a thick and viscous substance, thanks to which it lies on the surface in a thick, even layer, hiding all the defects and irregularities of the bath.
- The composition does not leave smudges, stripes and bubbles on the surface.
- To restore the bath, you do not need to remove the tiles or dismantle the bowl.
- The process takes less time than enameling or restoring with an inlay.
- Acrylic creates a film on the surface that repels dirt and plaque.
- Application of the mixture does not require special knowledge and skills.
- Most of the materials that are used for the restoration of bathtubs have practically no unpleasant odor.
The result of this restoration method will be a smooth, glossy surface that perfectly retains heat and does not retain dirt. As in the case of enameling a bathtub, before proceeding with the work, you need to think about the choice of material. It is important to note that neither for the sake of economy, nor for any other purpose, ordinary acrylic, which is sold in hardware stores, can be used to restore bathtubs. According to its characteristics, it differs from sanitary acrylic, which is used specifically for the restoration of plumbing, so you can completely ruin the bath and harm your health. The choice in this case is between glass and liquid self-leveling acrylic.
Glass or Liquid Acrylic?
Today, two types of materials are used for the restoration of bathtubs: stakryl and bulk acrylic (Plastall is the market leader in the production of such materials, so liquid acrylic is often called plastol). Many consumers believe that they are no different from each other, but in fact this is not the case.
Stakryl appeared in stores about 10 years ago and has already managed to prove itself well. It fits well on any surface and costs less than plastol, however, restoring bathtubs with it can be quite difficult for beginners, since the composition sets quickly enough. It is much easier to work with plastol, as it is less whimsical in operation and does not have a pungent odor. In addition, this material retains its properties even after freezing.
Plastall offers consumers who want to refurbish their own bathtub a whole line of materials.
| Name | Curing time | Peculiarities |
|---|---|---|
| "Plastol" classic | 36-48 hours | An easy-to-work material that spreads well, has increased plasticity and good adhesion. It has no pungent odor, does not require the addition of thinners or other substances, forms a smooth and fade-resistant film. The mixture retains its properties for 90 minutes |
| "Plastol-24" | 24 hours | A new material based on an improved classic formula. It is applied in one layer, the surface does not turn yellow, does not crack or peel off, it is resistant to mechanical damage and abrasion |
| "Plastol-M" | 36-48 hours | A budget solution with an optimized formula, so the result of using the material is no different from restoring bathtubs with more expensive products. It does not have a strong odor, does not cause allergies, the mixture retains its characteristics for 90 minutes |
| "Plastol-Super" | 16 hours | The "fastest" liquid acrylic, which hardens in a matter of hours. Does not form bubbles and streaks, does not require the addition of solvents or other components, but the mixture is “viable” for only 45 minutes |
When choosing a material, it is important to pay attention to the price - a good product cannot cost less than indicated on the manufacturer's website, and fakes do not provide the required quality of the finished coating. For those who do not yet have experience in restoring bathtubs, it is recommended to buy acrylic with a margin so that it is enough for the entire surface.
Step-by-step instructions for the restoration of bathtubs with bulk acrylic
Stage one. Preparing to pour acrylic
Preparing the surface for restoration is practically the same as the preparatory stage when enameling a bathtub. It is necessary to clean off the old coating and sand the bowl so that its surface becomes matte, warm it up and dry it. After that, you need to disconnect the siphon designed to drain water and place a container under the bath into which excess acrylic will drain (the material must be avoided entering the sewer - this can lead to serious problems with water flow).
Stage two. Filling the bathtub with acrylic
Prepare the mixture as indicated in the instructions, pour into a convenient container and put a rubber spatula nearby. If you need material of a specific color, you can use tinting paste, but first make sure that this is allowed by the manufacturer. Its amount should not exceed 3% of the total volume of acrylic.
Take a container with acrylic and pour the composition on the sides of the bowl in a thin stream, pushing it with a spatula under the edges of the tile. It is not necessary to pour too quickly and strongly - you need to act so that you get a layer 4-6 mm thick, and the material slowly flows down to about the middle.
Move the container evenly around the perimeter of the bowl, without taking long breaks, until the circle closes.
Move the jet closer to the middle of the bath, do the same to capture the entire surface. You should not try to smooth out streaks or bumps - this will only worsen the situation, and all defects will disappear during the drying process. The time for complete solidification of acrylic is indicated in the instructions, but it is better not to use the bath for three days.
Throughout the entire period until the material dries, it is better not to touch the bath and not even come close to it, since the ingress of the smallest particles of dust or debris can spoil the appearance of the restored plumbing.
Video - Instructions for the restoration of bathtubs with glass
Method number 3. Restoration with insert
Restoration of bathtubs using acrylic liners is also called the “bath to bath” method. The liner is a construction made of acrylic, plastic or silicone, which is an exact copy of the bowl. It can be bought at a specialized store, having previously made all the necessary measurements of the bath, and then glued it to the old bowl.
Acrylic liners are the most popular today - they are much more aesthetic and durable than plastic or silicone. This design is ideal for old bathtubs that cannot be restored with a new layer of enamel or liquid acrylic. In addition, the surface of the liners perfectly retains heat, its surface is absolutely smooth, but at the same time it is absolutely non-slip.
This is the most reliable way to refurbish a bathtub (a quality acrylic liner will last approximately 15-20 years) and, contrary to popular belief, it does not reduce the interior space of a bathtub.
However, this method of bath restoration also has its drawbacks.
- Difficulty in installation. Installing an acrylic liner is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. The liner is placed so that it covers the edges of the bath, and if the bowl is installed close to the wall, you will have to additionally remove the side and break the tile.
- Possibility of water ingress between two tubs. If the installation was not carried out correctly, or due to wear or the use of poor quality materials, water may enter between the liner and the bottom of the bowl. This will lead to dampness, mold and bad smell.
- inconvenience during operation. Sometimes manufacturers make liners too thin, which can cause them to sag underfoot and eventually deform or burst.
- Liners are made only for standard bathtubs. As a rule, bathtubs are divided into two types - 1.5 m and 1.7 m, and if the bowl has a non-standard size or shape, it will be very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to choose an insert.
- Fairly high cost. Compared to new acrylic baths, liners are inexpensive, but you can buy a new steel bath for that price.
How to choose an insert?
In order not to make a mistake when buying an insert, you need to take the following measurements:
- the width of the bowl along the inner surface, and measurements should be made on both sides;
- length along the inner and outer surface;
- the depth of the bowl at the drain.
In order not to make a mistake that will entail trouble and additional costs, you can invite a professional measurer.
How to choose a bath insert
It should be noted that in most modern stores they sell products with a thickness of 3, and sometimes 2 mm - such liners are very short-lived, and it is not recommended to use them for restoring bathtubs. In the best case, the structure will last about 5 years, after which it will have to be dismantled and replaced.
Step-by-step instructions for restoring a bathtub with an insert
Stage one. Preparation of the bath and improvised means
For the installation of acrylic liners, mounting foam and silicone sealant are used. It should be noted that for the performance of work it is necessary to use only tools specially designed for this purpose. Simple foam, which is used in repair work, will not work in this case - it has a low density and expands too much. To improve these characteristics, additional components are added to the foam - it is this material that is taken for mounting acrylic liners. In addition, in this case, a sanitary sealant is used, which is waterproof and resistant to mold.
Preparing the bath for restoration with an insert- a rather long and laborious process, which, in the absence of appropriate skills, is best entrusted to specialists.
Stage two. Installing the liner
The main rule to remember when installing an acrylic liner is that all the work should be done fairly quickly (in about 4-5 minutes), otherwise the adhesive will harden and poorly “grab” the materials.
| Step, No. | Description |
|---|---|
| Apply polyurethane foam to the bottom and sides of the bathtub. Its quantity also depends on the tightness of the fit of the structure, but usually it is applied in strips with an interval of 4-5 cm, and on the sides the strips must be vertical and stretch from the bottom to the very top. | |
| Install liner | |
| It is good to press the sides of the liner with your hands, then stand with your bare feet in the place where the drain is located and move towards the opposite edge - this way the liner will fall into place and press firmly against the surface of the bowl. After that, it is good to press down the walls of the structure with your hands. It is not recommended to put pressure on the liner with any hard objects or hit it, otherwise you can damage the acrylic during the installation process |
Over time, the bath loses its attractive appearance. Smudges and traces of rust appear, gloss disappears, it becomes rough to the touch. Everything says that it's time to change the old bath. And these are not small expenses. In addition, when replacing a bathtub, you cannot do without renovating the entire bathroom, and small expenses will turn into medium, or even large ones. But there is an alternative - do-it-yourself bath restoration. There are a large number of materials on the market with which you can independently update your bath with proper quality.
Bath restoration methods
Now there are three methods for restoring old bathtubs:
1. Restoration of the enameled surface of the bath.
2. Restoration with liquid acrylic.
3. Restoration by insertion.
Method 1: ordinary enameling
Cast iron and steel enameled bathtubs are the most common types of bathtubs in our apartments. They are produced in accordance with GOST 18297-96, which has been in force since 1997. According to this GOST, the guarantee for bathtubs is 2 years. But as practice shows, the enamel on them lasts no more than 10 years of use.
Enamel on baths in the factory is applied quite simply. First, the outer surface is red-hot, then the enamel powder is sifted onto the inner surface and held for some time to sinter the powder with the metal. Heat the outer surface again until the powder is melted. The result is a smooth, glossy enamel finish. It is clear that at home this method of restoring a cast-iron bath, as well as a steel one, is not suitable.
Why does enamel usually wear out?
The wear of the enameled surface occurs as a result of two factors:
- The use of cleaning products containing abrasive powders or substances with chlorine inclusions.
- The use of chemical reagents in the cleaning of water supply networks.
As a result of many years of exposure to these factors, the enameled surface of the bath becomes thinner, rougher and begins to rust.
Restoration of the enameled surface
Do-it-yourself enamel restoration is a fairly simple process. It consists of two stages: surface preparation and application of a new layer of enamel.
What will be needed for work?
You will need the following tools and materials:
- electric drill with a nozzle in the form of a grinding wheel;
- abrasive powder;
- sandpaper;
- rust converter (for example, "Tsinkar");
- degreaser (for example, "Nefras");
- lint-free napkin;
- natural bristle brushes or spray;
- respirator and gloves;
- enamel, preferably two-component (enamel plus hardener).
Preliminary step: surface preparation
A very important step. The more thoroughly the surface of the bathtub is cleaned, the better the new enamel layer will be.
- sprinkle the old enamel with abrasive powder and clean it off with sandpaper or a grinding wheel mounted on an electric drill;
- treat areas affected by corrosion with a rust converter, hold for half an hour, then clean with sandpaper;
- wash off the enamel and crumbs with water;
- thoroughly treat the bath with a degreaser using a lint-free cloth;
- fill the bath with hot water and let it warm up for 10 minutes;
- drain the water and wipe dry with a lint-free cloth; make sure that there are no lint or other foreign elements on the surface.
The main stage: applying enamel
- according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix enamel and hardener in a certain proportion and mix thoroughly;
- apply the first layer of enamel with a brush or spray;
- withstand a certain period of time according to the instructions;
- apply a second layer of enamel.
This completes the process of restoring an enamelled bath with your own hands. It is advisable to withstand at least a week before the start of the operation of the bath. This is how long it takes for the enamel to fully polymerize.
The service life of the new enamel will be about 6-8 years.
Method 2: bathtub restoration with liquid acrylic
This method of bath restoration appeared relatively recently, thanks to the emergence of a special material - glass.
What do we restore?
Glass acrylic is a two-component acrylic material designed specifically for bathroom renovations. It is acrylic itself and a separately supplied hardener. When acrylic and hardener are combined, the polymerization process begins, and when applied to the surface, the composition turns into a high-quality acrylic film with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm.
Advantages of glass
Stakryl has three remarkable properties that help it quickly and effectively restore the bath:
1. Viscosity
Optimally matched coefficient of viscosity of glass helps to make an acrylic coating with a thickness of 4 mm on the walls of the bath and 6 mm on its bottom without much effort.
2. Fluidity
The fluidity effect allows glass to independently envelop the surface of the bath and lay down in an even layer.
3. Delayed polymerization
Thanks to this quality, you can calmly and relatively comfortably carry out work on the restoration of the bath, without fear that the acrylic will harden too quickly.
After curing, the acrylic surface has mechanical and impact strength far superior to the acrylic liner or enamel layer.
Work performance technology
The technology for restoring bathtubs with liquid acrylic is even simpler than the enameling process and is as follows:
1: Surface preparation
This stage does not differ from the restoration of the enameled surface. Repeat the same steps. Then disconnect the siphon and place a container under the bathtub drain, where excess acrylic will drain.
2: Apply liquid acrylic
- prepare the acrylic mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions;
- slowly pour the finished mixture onto the upper edge of the bath, as soon as the jet reaches the middle, we begin to smoothly move the jet of glass along the perimeter of the bath;
- when the circle closes, repeat the procedure, starting from the middle.
The poured restoration process must be continuous, for this you need to take a glass container of a suitable size. It’s not worth saving - it’s better to pour out a little more acrylic than it will be lacking, the excess will go into the container under the drain hole.
Acrylic is polymerized, depending on the type, from one to four days. Choose a glass with a long drying time, in which case the acrylic surface will be of better quality.
The service life of the restored bath will be about 20 years.
Method 3: bathtub restoration with an insert
The simplest, but also the most expensive way of restoration is the installation of an insert. In addition, it is impossible to completely restore the bath with your own hands using this method, since the liner is made in the factory.
There is an option to order the manufacture of an insert for a specific bath at the enterprise, and install it yourself.
Insert installation technology is as follows:
- thoroughly clean and degrease the surface of the bath;
- insert the manufactured liner into the bath;
- check the correctness of the docking of the drain holes;
- cut the liner along the wall tile line;
- apply special glue to the inner surface of the bath and the outer side of the liner and dock them;
- joints are additionally sealed with silicone.
After installing the liner, cold water is poured into the bath and kept for a day. After that, the restored bath is ready for use.
The insert will serve you up to 10 years.
How much will a bathroom renovation cost?
In conclusion, we will conduct a comparative analysis of the cost of bath restoration, based on the methods discussed above.
Bathtub enameling
The cost of high-quality enamel "Reaflex 50" produced by the Finnish company "Tikkurila" is 550 rubles per 1 kg. The Russian set for restoration "Svetlana" costs 750 rubles. As a result, you will have to pay 1300 rubles.
Cast restoration
If you buy a set for restoring a bathtub with liquid acrylic, for example Plastall, it will cost about 2000 rubles. By the way, it has everything you need for independent work, even a CD with a video lesson.
Acrylic liner
The cost of the insert itself and polymer glue ranges from 2800 to 3000 rubles.
The best option is the poured restoration method, in which you get a beautiful and durable coating for little money. Moreover, any of these methods is several times cheaper than buying and installing a new bathtub.
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- - 2 wide brushes (at least 7 cm wide);
- - color for enamel;
- – two-component epoxy enamel
- - grinder, cord brush;
- - a respirator with a cartridge;
- - a vacuum cleaner;
- - cooker cleaner
Prepare the bath: it must be degreased, the surfaces roughened so that the old and new coatings have the largest contact area. You need to degrease 2 times - before processing with a grinder and after, immediately before applying the enamel. Use a Sanita type slab cleaner or a Sanox type toilet cleaner that contains a fat dissolver. Wash the surface thoroughly after degreasing.
How to update a cast-iron bathtub in 2018 - update a cast-iron bathtub - Plumbing
👍 Bathroom enamel renovation. At the moment, a cast-iron bath has no competitors - it keeps heat well, does not make noise, it is very difficult to deform it.
How to restore an old cast iron bath
Replacing a bathtub is a very expensive and troublesome undertaking, associated with great difficulties and rather tangible financial costs. That is why most of those who started a repair (especially not a major one, but a cosmetic one) are looking for alternative ways to give this plumbing product a neat look again. How to restore an old cast-iron bath - know, of course, the masters of this field. But it is quite possible to do most of the work yourself.
How to restore an old cast iron bath
When is it time to refurbish a bath?
A cast-iron bath is a standard of quality, strength, and reliability in the plumbing world. No wonder it is advised to install products from this alloy in apartments. In many houses built back in the Soviet Union, just such bathtubs were installed. And such baths are used to this day. Also, a cast-iron product is comfortable to use: it does not create noise, unlike, for example, a thin-walled iron bath. Yes, and it is pleasant to wash in it - the bath retains the heat of the water poured into it much longer than others.
Cast iron bath retains heat longer
Unfortunately, even seemingly eternal things wear out over time. And a cast-iron bath is no exception. At the same time, it is not she herself that deteriorates, but the coating - enamel, with which the structure was covered at the factory. And this special paint, applied using a special technology, begins to lose its appearance, and its performance is deteriorating.
On a note! Cast iron bathtubs are enameled during production after strong heating. It is due to this that it is possible to obtain a high-quality coupling of the base with the coating.
Cast iron tub is strong and durable
Here are some signs that it's time to upgrade your bathtub.
- Roughness of the inner surface. It is much more pleasant to step on smooth enamel than on a pumice stone resembling the touch.
- Bathtub cleaning is getting harder. The reason is the very rough surface on which an ordinary sponge no longer slides easily and pleasantly. Cleaning a bathtub takes a lot of effort.
- Dirt and rust quickly and strongly eat into the enamel due to the loss of smoothness.. In some cases, contamination cannot be removed at all.
- The appearance of chips and cracks on the enamel surface.
It's time for a bathroom refurbishment
Attention! Enamel chips are dangerous for the entire structure. The fact is that the enamel paint protects the cast iron from the effects of water and aggressive chemicals for cleaning plumbing. In places of chips, rust forms quite quickly and gradually begins to spread throughout the structure right under the enamel.
Chip in cast iron bath
It is these signs that inform the owner of the bath that it is time for her to “rest”. But do not rush to dismantle it and throw it away - the bath can be reanimated! And for this, there are three fairly simple and, moreover, relatively inexpensive ways - this is the use of an acrylic liner, the “filling bath” technique and enamel renewal.
Three ways to update your bath
All these methods differ from each other in price, quality, speed of work and complexity of implementation. But it is worth considering them all to choose the one that suits you best. Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are important to know in order to make the right choice.
Cast iron bathtub before and after restoration
We paint the bath
Self-enamelling or, more simply, painting the inside of the bathtub with special coloring compositions in order to renew the coating is one of the oldest restoration methods that has already been tested by time.
The work is carried out using a brush and special restoration kits, which include enamel and a hardener for it, and the kit can also contain colors of various colors that will allow you to change the color of the bath and make it as harmonious as possible in a certain color scheme of the interior. By the way, such coloring pigments can be bought independently, and then simply added to the coloring composition diluted according to all the rules.
The paint is applied to the surface of the bath, previously cleaned of dirt and rust. Before starting work, it is advisable to grind the walls with a grinder, wash, and then degrease with any means (for example, acetone).
Important! Before the enamel is applied, the bath is well warmed up. This can be done with a hair dryer or by typing hot water into it. However, after using the second method, the surface of the structure will have to be well dried. Otherwise, the paint will not lay down as it should.
It is most convenient to work with a brush, but there are also those compounds that are perfectly applied to the surface of cast iron with a small paint roller. There are restorative compositions for enameling bathtubs and in aerosol cans, but they are not recommended for use on large areas, since the paint coming out of them often lies unevenly on the surface, therefore streaks may remain. By the way, some formulations, especially professional ones, may have increased or decreased fluidity, which can complicate the work of a beginner. Therefore, it is worth buying non-professional sets.
Using a small roller
Attention! All compounds used for enameling baths are very toxic, and therefore it is important to work with a respirator and rubberized gloves. You should also ensure good ventilation in the apartment and remove children and animals from the house.
It will take about a week to completely restore the bath in this way. The fact is that the enamel is applied in several layers, and each of them should be well dried before applying the next.
How to restore an old cast iron bath - 3 best ways and step by step instructions!
Learn how to restore an old cast-iron bath with your own hands! Overview of methods, detailed step-by-step instructions, useful tips, photos + videos.
How to Renovate an Old Cast Iron Bath: A Comparative Review of the 3 Best Ways
Sooner or later, the enamel of any bath becomes thinner, indelible rusty stains appear on it, and its owner states with chagrin that it is time to change the equipment. This difficult procedure is very time consuming, so many are trying to figure out how to update an old cast-iron bathtub and whether it is even possible. Despite the fact that the appearance of such a device leaves much to be desired, the design fully retains all its performance characteristics. Therefore, the restoration should consist only in the application of a new enamel coating. Modern technology makes it possible.
Should old equipment be restored?
The most obvious solution is to replace the plumbing fixtures. Let's try to figure out how much such an event will cost. To the cost of the simplest bath, we add the cost of transporting it, lifting the device to the floor, if necessary. In addition, a certain amount will be required to pay for the dismantling of old equipment and the installation of new ones. At the lowest prices, all this will require about 12,000 rubles. This is only in the case when the wall and floor covering will not be damaged during installation work. Otherwise, you will also have to pay for a partial bathroom renovation.
Dismantling the old and installing a new bath is a troublesome and costly undertaking. If the enamel of the equipment has become thinner or washed off, and the device itself is still in good condition, it is worth considering restoration
Thus, for a fairly large amount, we get a modest result, since the cost of the cheapest bathtub was included in the calculation. If you want a more convenient or high-quality design, you will have to increase the estimated expense item. Not everyone can afford such costs, so they want to restore their cast-iron bath. This is a cheaper and more efficient solution.
However, it is very important to correctly choose the method of restoration. There are only three of them:
- acrylic bathtub;
- applying a new layer of enamel to the surface of the device;
- installation of an acrylic liner.
Let's consider each method in more detail.
What types of restoration are there?
Option #1 - acrylic coating
Restoring a cast-iron bath by pouring acrylic is considered one of the easiest. This is a fairly new method that has managed to gain popularity among consumers. It consists in applying a liquid acrylic solution by pouring onto the surface of the equipment. Its advantages include:
- Durability. The coating obtained in this way, provided that it is correctly applied, retains its properties for about 8-15 years. This is due to the fact that acrylic is applied in a fairly thick layer of about 6 mm.
- Smooth glossy finish. The composition is quite thick. It spreads well over the surface of the device, filling possible irregularities, forming an almost perfectly even and smooth plane.
- Relative simplicity and high speed of applying liquid acrylic.
- The absence of an unpleasant odor, which allows you to work even in homes where allergy sufferers, children and the elderly live.
There are also disadvantages of the method. Among them is the drying time of the composition. This usually takes about three days, during which it is not recommended to even approach the device. Since debris, dust particles or water accidentally falling on a drying surface can ruin it.
Despite the apparent simplicity of applying acrylic by pouring, this is a rather complicated method of restoration. Requires certain skills to work with the composition
Another negative point is the relatively high cost. It is higher than that of enamel. However, such a price is fully justified by a longer service life and good quality of the coating.
Option # 2 - self-enamelling
The oldest way of restoration. It remotely resembles painting, but you need to clearly understand that special enamel is applied in this case. It is she who needs to be chosen, wondering how to paint a cast-iron bath. There are two types of such compositions: for professional application and for independent. The first ones are very liquid and require laying in several layers. This is a rather complicated procedure. The second ones are thicker and, accordingly, easier to apply.
Properly selected composition with the help of a roller, and more often a brush, is placed on the prepared surface of the equipment. Advantages of this method:
- The cheapest restoration option.
- There is no need for dismantling and subsequent installation of the drain and overflow.
- Suitable for both cast iron and steel bathtubs.
Enameling has many more disadvantages:
- The service life of the new enamel is about 5 years.
- The composition applied to the surface of the equipment dries for quite a long time - about 5-7 days.
- The coating is hard, respectively, very sensitive to shock. Over time, chips may appear.
- The enamel is applied in a fairly thin layer, so it is not able to cover various surface irregularities such as dents, chips, etc.
- Over time, the epoxy coating will definitely turn yellow.
You need to understand that the enamel obtained as a result of restoration is seriously different from the one that was originally applied to the equipment.
Cold enameling is the cheapest and easiest way to restore. It resembles painting the surface with a special compound.
In order for the enamel to last as long as possible, simple rules should be followed. For example, to clean an updated cast-iron bathtub, you will need not an abrasive powder, but a mild soapy solution. Otherwise, the enamel will be damaged. The appliance must be protected from impacts, especially with sharp objects, and do not pour too hot water into it. When filling the container, you should first open the tap with cold water and only then with hot water.
Option #3 - Bath to Bath Method
This is the name of the restoration method, which consists in installing an acrylic liner inside the old structure, completely repeating its contours. The insert is mounted on a special adhesive foam. With competently carried out work, the service life of the bath after restoration is about 15 years. The main advantages of the method:
- Durability of the new coating. Acrylic is much stronger than enamel.
- A flat surface that hides all the defects of the old design.
- The surface will not yellow over time.
- A successful combination of the advantages of acrylic and cast iron baths.
The disadvantages of the method can be considered the need to dismantle the drain siphon and the prohibition on installing the insert in thin structures, which are called "light cast iron" or "thin cast iron". This is due to the fact that the equipment can sag and the adhesive layer that secures the liner will be broken. The “bath to bath” method is very demanding on the quality of materials. Using an insert of poor quality or inappropriate glue will not succeed in restoring the bath.
Installing an acrylic liner is a simple and effective restoration method. Particular attention should be paid to the size of the insert. It should fit perfectly in the bath.
All three methods require preparing the equipment for the upgrade. This stage usually includes cleaning the cast iron bath of dirt and grease. Degreasing is done with oxalic acid or baking soda. All defects are carefully cleaned, so that the surface is even. Then grinding is carried out. The result should be a rough surface. When applied to it with the desired composition, adhesion with it will be maximum.
To restore or not - objective conclusions
The decision to restore or replace an old bath, of course, will be made by its owner. However, you need to know that if you correctly carry out restoration work and use only high-quality materials, the updated bathtub will last a long time. It may be worth entrusting this task to experienced professionals with a good reputation. Then for relatively little money you can get an excellent result.
How to update (restore) an old cast-iron bath, how to paint?
The problem of how to update an old cast-iron bath worries many. Let's consider three available methods of restoration, their main advantages and significant disadvantages.
How to restore a bath yourself?
The bath is one of the most important places in the house. Many people will say with confidence that this is a kind of relaxation room. It is here that there is such a rare opportunity to relax and indulge in a bubble bath with marvelous aromas and warm, pleasant water. But what if, over time, the appearance of the bathroom only depresses? Over the years, everything becomes unusable, and therefore various cracks, peeling of enamel, rust and other unpleasant phenomena can appear here.
Over time, the bath loses its former appearance, cracks and rust appear, but you can save on buying a new one and restore it yourself at home.
However, do not rush to seek expensive professional help. There are ways to fix the situation with your own hands, moreover, at minimal cost. ?
Bathtub enameling at home
It is very often necessary to reanimate a cast-iron bathtub, since for many years it has been considered the most common option. The cast-iron bath has earned its popularity due to its strength, durability and low susceptibility to corrosion, which cannot be said about modern materials. In addition, cast iron is practical, and its price is an excellent investment that will definitely not make you regret it.
But still, the enamel of the bath turns yellow over time, begins to crack. In a word, defects appear that significantly impair both the aesthetic appearance and some practical functions. You can fix this at home. There are two ways that can help restore an old bath with your own hands. And here is the first of them.
In order to restore the bath in the first way, you will need the following components:
- a special kit for the restoration of a cast-iron bath (it is sold in specialized hardware stores, and therefore it will not be difficult to find it);
- putty knife;
- sandpaper;
- any cleaning powder of abrasive texture;
- alcohol or vodka.
Before enamelling, it is necessary to remove everything that is cracked and split with a spatula, then an abrasive powder is applied, and additional cleaning is performed with sandpaper.
How to start restoration? First you need to carefully clean the old enamelled bath, that is, remove everything that is cracked, split. This is necessary in order to level the old surface as much as possible and prepare it for further processing. So, with a spatula, you need to scrape off everything that has broken off and cracked. Then the abrasive powder is applied. With the help of sandpaper, additional cleaning is performed. After that, all excess must be removed, the powder washed off, and the bath degreased. For this, alcohol is useful.
Now you need to draw hot water into the bath and leave it there for half an hour. After this time, the water descends, and the container itself is wiped dry.
The bathtub restoration kit includes a special primer. It must be applied to the surface of the bath inside, wait until it dries. Now it's time for the enamel to be applied. As a rule, in the kit it is already mixed with a hardener. If it's not, then you need to do it.
Enamel is applied in about 3-5 layers. In this case, each layer must be given time to dry, and only after that apply the next one. Thinner must be added to the last layer so that the surface of the bath acquires a glossy appearance. After about a week, the enamel dries completely. Until this time, you can not use the bathroom, otherwise all the work will go down the drain.
Inserting an acrylic liner into a cast iron bath
First you need to measure the parameters of the bath in order to know the size of the acrylic liner.
There is another way to update the old bath yourself. This is an even easier way to restore than the one above. This will require quite a bit:
- special acrylic liner (sold in hardware stores);
- roulette;
- sealant.
First you need to very accurately measure the parameters of the bath, based on which the size of the acrylic liner will be selected. Before carrying out this method of updating the bath, it is worth doing the previously mentioned cleaning. This is necessary for better adhesion of the liner and the existing surface. Yes, and no one needs various contaminants and microbes, let it be clean under the liner.
Next, a special sealant is applied to the liner and to the surface of the bath. After that, the liner is firmly attached to the surface. To do this, you need to draw hot water into it and leave it like that for about a knock. After that, the water is drained. The bath is ready to use!
In such simple ways, you can give a second life to a cast-iron bath, update it and make it look attractive. This does not require a lot of time, effort and financial costs. All this is done easily and simply at home. You can restore, update the bath with your own hands today!
How to update a cast-iron bath at home: ways
How to update a cast-iron bath at home? This can be easily and simply done at home. Enameling and inserting an acrylic liner are the most common methods.
With proper care, the acrylic bowl will last for decades, but sooner or later the coating still loses its gloss and whiteness. You can repair an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, it is enough to know about the different ways to restore gloss, their real effectiveness and work technique. About everything in order.
How to fix hull damage
Acrylic bathtubs have extremely low resistance to mechanical damage. If the need for repair is caused by damage to the bowl from an accidentally dropped object, the integrity of the base should be restored before restoring the coating. Note that the following steps are only necessary if the fiberglass layer is damaged, chipped or delaminated. If the base has retained its integrity, you can use the usual repair kit.
So, first of all, remove all the broken fragments and carefully inspect the edges of the hole. You need to make sure that there are no stratified scales along the edges. Otherwise, it may be necessary to remove exfoliated layers, it is better to tear off fragments from the outside.
To repair the base, a glass mat with a density of 200 g/m 2 or more is required. If you are not sure about the presence of impregnation between the glass fibers, it is better to burn the glass mat pieces in the flame of a gas burner. The binder is a two-component epoxy adhesive, a budget EAF will be enough.
The essence of the repair is the imposition of 5-7 layers of fiberglass on a cleaned and degreased surface around the breakdown site. First, glue is applied with a brush to the edges of the hole with an indent of 3-4 cm, then a glass mat flap is laid and carefully smoothed, the size of which is 2-3 cm larger than the hole in each direction.
Each subsequent patch is glued after partial polymerization of the resin in the previous layer. To speed up the process, it is recommended to increase the concentration of the hardener by 2-2.5 times, so the break between the application of patches will be about 15-20 minutes. The dimensions of each subsequent patch should be 3-4 cm larger than the previous one. The bath will be ready for further work after the complete polymerization of the resin, that is, the next day. Before the restoration of the coating, the breakdown site is leveled with the composition of a standard acrylic repair kit and polished flush with the common surface.
Is simple painting possible?
There are only two options to restore the gloss and whiteness of the acrylic coating. The simplest is spray-type epoxy paint marked Ceramics. This method has the right to life, especially given the high cost of bulk acrylic and the complexity of its application.
The main disadvantage of painting is the inability of a thin layer to hide surface defects. The bath will have to be sanded for a long and tedious time, gradually increasing the grain index and removing large scratches and chips. Naturally, the thickness of the acrylic layer should allow this - cheap bathtubs have a polymer coating of about 0.5-0.7 mm and it is most likely impossible to restore them by painting.
Otherwise, everything is simple: the entire surface is cleaned to remove the gloss, then wiped with acetone to degrease. Next, paint is sprayed from a distance of 40-45 cm in one or two thin layers with an interval of 20-30 minutes. When spraying, the formation of streaks should not be allowed, if they nevertheless appear, they must be blotted with a clean foam rubber sponge and painted over again. You need to work exclusively in a respirator and exclude the occurrence of an open flame in the room.
One aerosol can is enough for 1.8-2 m 2 of surface. However, when calculating the consumption, the paint should be taken with a margin of about 50%. Firstly, you will somehow be forced to eliminate errors and defects in painting, and secondly, you will be left with a “repair kit” with no difference in color.
How Liquid Acrylic Works
In short, acrylic polymer is still the same epoxy resin tinted in white. A feature of the material is its high adhesion, including to glossy surfaces. Despite this, the preparation for the restoration must be very thorough.
First of all, the regime of temperature and humidity is important. The drier the air in the room, the better, and the presence of splashes or drops must be completely excluded. The optimum temperature for applying acrylic is 25 ºС. It is under this temperature regime that the epoxy composition acquires the most optimal viscosity for application without a brush.
The difference in fluidity with a temperature change of even a few degrees can be very significant. At 28-30 ºС the layer will be too thin, and at temperatures below 23 ºС normal polymerization will not occur and the coating will not acquire the required qualities. Naturally, the bath and the air in the room should have the same temperature.
Bulk acrylic loses stickiness after 4-6 hours and completely polymerizes after two days. Up to this point, it is necessary to maintain the optimum temperature in the room, and in the first hours after application - in any convenient way to prevent dust settling.
Surface preparation for restoration
From the surface of the bowl, in any case, you need to knock down the gloss. This is done by manual grinding using waterproof sandpaper. Start with 200 grit, then increase by 100-150 grit every 2-3 steps. Grinding ends with processing at 600 grit, after such processing the coating acquires a matte whiteness and is practically free of defects. With each increase in granularity, the bath must be rinsed with water, getting rid of larger abrasive particles.
At the next stage, the largest surface defects, chips and scratches are eliminated. For this, you can use both a hard-plastic automotive putty and a repair kit for acrylic bathtubs. The latter is more preferable in the case when it is planned to restore the gloss and color by polishing, and not by pouring a new coating. In this case, the difference in whiteness will definitely be visible, although not very much.
After sealing defects on the surface, these places are subjected to repeated cleaning until the surface is leveled. Before continuing work, the bathtub must be washed with plenty of warm water, completely washing off the white dust, and then dismantling the plumbing and removing the remnants of contaminants in places previously covered with drain nets.
Cleaning and degreasing
To restore an acrylic bath, special kits are sold, including 30-50 grams of a one-component polymer, abrasive materials and polishing paste. Particularly noteworthy is the cleaner and primer in the sets of self-leveling acrylic. The latter must be applied immediately before pouring the polymer, but it makes sense to use a cleaner only if you have not resorted to grinding.
Acetone or Thinner 646 can be used to degrease the surface. Petroleum-based products are not worth taking, they are not very friendly to acrylate polymers. Remember that the surface must be absolutely clean and dry before applying the coating.
Polymer application
Before pouring a new coating, it must first be prepared. The resin is mixed with a hardener in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. It is recommended to add approximately 80-90% of the recommended amount of hardener to maintain fluidity for a longer time. So it will be possible to distribute the composition as evenly as possible without using a brush.
It is only necessary to mix the polymer manually, the use of a drill or mixer will lead to the involvement of numerous air bubbles in the liquid mass. Liquid acrylic should be diluted immediately and in full, using a clean, dry container. After that, the composition is poured into another container of the same volume, this is done to avoid areas with uneven mixing in the corners and near the walls.
An empty container is placed under the drain hole of the bath, from another acrylic is poured in a thin strip along the sides. It is recommended to first disperse the composition with a brush with natural bristles and moisten the sides with lapels well to prevent the expensive epoxy from pouring out. Subsequently, it will be enough to pour the composition on the innermost edge, achieving the most uniform spreading along the walls.
When the entire composition is spilled, you need to wait 15-20 minutes and collect the remains of the polymer that has drained through the drain hole, substituting an empty container. A new portion of the polymer is poured over the sides in those places where the layer is not thick enough and there are gaps. The procedure must be repeated until the resin stops flowing. In parallel, you need to monitor the places where uneven thick streaks can potentially form.
No matter how hard you try, you will not get a perfectly smooth factory-quality coating. To improve the result, you can lightly burn the still fresh polymer with a gas burner flame immediately after all the acrylic has been poured onto the surface. Sharp heating helps to get rid of the remnants of entrained gases and smooth the surface as efficiently as possible.
After drying, the bath will still need polishing, but not so time-consuming. Polishing paste should be applied in small portions and rubbed over the surface with a fiber cloth. Polishing is carried out with wide circular movements, periodically a fresh portion of the paste should be added to the napkin.
As you can see, repairing an acrylic bathtub is not an easy task, but it is definitely easier and cheaper than installing a new bowl or liner.
Replacing a bathtub is a very expensive and troublesome undertaking, associated with great difficulties, but quite tangible financial costs. That is why most of those who started a repair (especially not a major one, but a cosmetic one) are looking for alternative ways to give this plumbing product a neat look again. How to restore an old cast-iron bath - know, of course, the masters of this field. But it is quite possible to do most of the work yourself.
When is it time to refurbish a bath?
A cast-iron bath is a standard of quality, strength, and reliability in the plumbing world. No wonder it is advised to install products from this alloy in apartments. In many houses built back in the Soviet Union, just such bathtubs were installed. And such baths are used to this day. Also, a cast-iron product is comfortable to use: it does not create noise, unlike, for example, a thin-walled iron bath. Yes, and it is pleasant to wash in it - the bath retains the heat of the water poured into it much longer than others.
Unfortunately, even seemingly eternal things wear out over time. And a cast-iron bath is no exception. At the same time, it is not she herself that deteriorates, but the coating - enamel, with which the structure was covered at the factory. And this special paint, applied using a special technology, begins to lose its appearance, and its performance is deteriorating.
On a note! Cast iron bathtubs are enameled during production after strong heating. It is due to this that it is possible to obtain a high-quality coupling of the base with the coating.
Here are some signs that it's time to upgrade your bathtub.
- Roughness of the inner surface. It is much more pleasant to step on smooth enamel than on a pumice stone resembling the touch.
- Bathtub cleaning is getting harder. The reason is the very rough surface on which an ordinary sponge no longer slides easily and pleasantly. Cleaning a bathtub takes a lot of effort.
- Dirt and rust quickly and strongly eat into the enamel due to the loss of smoothness.. In some cases, contamination cannot be removed at all.
- The appearance of chips and cracks on the enamel surface.
Attention! Enamel chips are dangerous for the entire structure. The fact is that the enamel paint protects the cast iron from the effects of water and aggressive chemicals for cleaning plumbing. In places of chips, rust forms quite quickly and gradually begins to spread throughout the structure right under the enamel.
It is these signs that inform the owner of the bath that it is time for her to “rest”. But do not rush to dismantle it and throw it away - the bath can be reanimated! And for this, there are three fairly simple and, moreover, relatively inexpensive ways - this is the use of an acrylic liner, the “filling bath” technique and enamel renewal.
Three ways to update your bath
All these methods differ from each other in price, quality, speed of work and complexity of implementation. But it is worth considering them all to choose the one that suits you best. Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are important to know in order to make the right choice.
We paint the bath
Self-enamelling or, more simply, painting the inside of the bathtub with special coloring compositions in order to renew the coating is one of the oldest restoration methods that has already been tested by time.
The work is carried out with a brush and special restoration kits, which include directly and a hardener for it, also in the kit there can be colors of various colors that will allow you to change the color of the bath and make it as harmonious as possible in a certain color scheme of the interior. By the way, such coloring pigments can be bought independently, and then simply added to the coloring composition diluted according to all the rules.
The paint is applied to the surface of the bath, previously cleaned of dirt and rust. Before starting work, it is advisable to grind the walls with a grinder, wash, and then degrease with any means (for example, acetone).
Important! Before the enamel is applied, the bath is well warmed up. This can be done with a hair dryer or by typing hot water into it. However, after using the second method, the surface of the structure will have to be well dried. Otherwise, the paint will not lay down as it should.
It is most convenient to work with a brush, but there are also those compounds that are perfectly applied to the surface of cast iron with a small paint roller. There are restorative compositions for enameling bathtubs and in aerosol cans, but they are not recommended for use on large areas, since the paint coming out of them often lies unevenly on the surface, therefore streaks may remain. By the way, some formulations, especially professional ones, may have increased or decreased fluidity, which can complicate the work of a beginner. Therefore, it is worth buying non-professional sets.
Attention! All compounds used for enameling baths are very toxic, and therefore it is important to work with a respirator and rubberized gloves. You should also ensure good ventilation in the apartment and remove children and animals from the house.
It will take about a week to completely restore the bath in this way. The fact is that the enamel is applied in several layers, and each of them should be well dried before applying the next. To , you can read in our article.
| Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|
| A cheap and affordable way to restore bathtubs. | Enamel is sensitive to impact and breaks easily. Over time (and rather quickly) chips can appear. |
| Bath enameling work can be done independently, and the means for this are sold at any hardware store. You do not need to have special skills for applying enamel. | Enamel does not cover large irregularities - they need to be pre-finished. |
| During the work, the dismantling of plumbing is not carried out. | After a while, the white paint will begin to turn yellow. |
| This is a fairly quick way to restore the bath. | You need to take care of such a bathroom very carefully - do not use aggressive chemical and abrasive products for cleaning. Also, do not pour boiling water into the bath with such a coating. |
The average service life of enamel is about 5 years. Therefore, if this method was chosen, one should be prepared for the fact that after this period of time the enameling will have to be repeated.
Bath enamel prices
bath enamel
Acrylic liner
This method of bathtub restoration is actively used for cast iron products and is otherwise called “bath to bath”. A custom-made or purchased ready-made acrylic liner is inserted inside the old structure, which follows the contours of the plumbing structure. It is fixed inside with foam or special mastic, which is applied to the inner surface of the bath. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle the plumbing parts for draining.
Advice! For high-quality adhesion of the adhesive substance to the surface of the bath, it is best to clean and degrease it (surface).
The acrylic liner is one-piece, therefore, to begin with, it is inserted into the bath without glue, holes for the drain are marked, and then these holes are removed and cut. Then, having applied the adhesive composition to the inner surface of the bath itself, the liner is lowered there and glued.
Table. Advantages and disadvantages of the method.
| Advantages | Flaws |
|---|---|
| Acrylic is a very durable substance, such a bath coating will be stronger than enamel. | The need to dismantle plumbing equipment. |
| The liner does an excellent job of hiding all the bumps and damage to the bath, making it smooth and beautiful. | Cannot be installed on structures made of thin metal. Such a metal can bend under the weight of water and a person, which is why the adhesive adhesion of the liner to the surface is easily broken. |
| Acrylic does not yellow over time. | Fairly high price. |
| Ease of installation. | The method has high requirements for the quality of materials - poor glue or a poor-quality liner can spoil the whole work. |
The service life of the acrylic liner is approximately 15 years. However, this method of restoration is much more expensive than the previous one.
Video - Installation of an acrylic liner
acrylic coating
This method is also called "filling bath", because it is performed using a special technology using liquid acrylic. The substance is poured onto the prepared surface of the old bath. This is a fairly durable coating that resists daily exposure well, but still requires careful cleaning without the use of abrasives.
On a note! With liquid acrylic, due to its relative density and viscosity, it is quite possible to mask irregularities during the restoration of the bathtub.
"Pouring bath" is a fairly new method of restoration, but it has already managed to fall in love with many, as it does not force plumbing owners to replace the cast-iron bath completely, but is easily done even with their own hands.
Hot tub - before and after
The advantages of the method lie in the durability of the coating, since acrylic is applied in a rather thick layer - about 5-6 mm. By the way, despite the density, it spreads well over the surface of the bath. It is also very pleasant to the touch and smooth.
How to restore the bath in this way? It's simple - follow our instructions.
Step 1. First you need to prepare a bath for work. Using a grinder, the old enamel coating is polished to a rough state.
Step 2 The bathtub is cleaned with a powder and a sponge, and then rinsed with clean water.
Step 3 The drain system is dismantled both at the top and at the bottom of the bath.
Step 4 The surface of the bath is degreased with any degreasing agent. Acetone will do, as well as any other solvent. After that, liquid acrylic is prepared according to the instructions indicated on the package. The mixture must be very thoroughly mixed.
Step 5 It's time to start filling the bath. For the convenience of work, a little acrylic can be poured into a small container. In order not to stain the floors, the container is placed in the bath.
Step 6 Acrylic is poured onto the surface of the bath in a thin stream, starting from the corners and edges of the bath in a circle.
Step 7 The substance is poured in several layers. It should flow down the sides of the tub, evenly covering the sides and top.
Step 8 Using a spatula, the acrylic layer, starting from the middle of the bath to its bottom, is leveled. All "gaps" are covered. Acrylic is lifted with a spatula from the bottom of the tub. Thus, all the side walls and the bottom are worked out.
Step 9 The bath is left to dry - this period is at least 36 hours. All this time it is better not to touch it at all, otherwise you can spoil all the work.
Step 10 Lastly, when the acrylic dries, a drain system is installed.
Now you can use the product to your heart's content. The service life of the "bulk bath" varies from 8 to 15 years.
Video - Technique "Pouring bath"
Compositions for the "bulk bath"
A "bulk bath" can be made using two types of products - glass and liquid acrylic. They are different from each other, and a common mistake for beginners is to mistake them for the same substance.
Stakryl began to be used about 10-15 years ago. It is relatively inexpensive and has a fairly high strength. After applying it to the bath, it should be dried for at least 4 days - and already here you can see a clear difference between the substance and ordinary liquid acrylic, which has a shorter drying time. Stakryl is also afraid of mechanical damage, so it is important to handle the bathtub covered with it carefully and carefully.
Liquid acrylic, on the other hand, has recently appeared on the building products market. It has higher strength and resistance to various mechanical influences. The coating made from it retains a glossy sheen for a long period of time. By the way, the smell from it is much less sharp than from glass. Acrylic dries in just 36 hours.
In general, both materials can be used for the restoration of bathtubs and other plumbing. But you should definitely know the difference between them.
Summing up what has been said, it can be noted with confidence that it is quite possible for everyone to restore the bath with their own hands, restore its former grandeur and neat appearance without the use of drastic measures to replace the bath itself. But the service life of such updated products (or rather, their coatings), of course, is not so great.
Acrylic bath liner - installation steps
Hot tub - before and after
