Installation of ventilation in the bathroom in a private house. Tired of turning up your nose at your home bathroom? Make ventilation in a wooden house with your own hands! Norms and requirements

If the bathroom, which should be a model of cleanliness and comfort, is associated with heavy air, damp towels and mold dangerous to health, and smells from the toilet are spreading throughout the house, then it's time to think about forced ventilation at home. Simply put, forced ventilation is the installation of exhaust equipment in the ventilation duct. In addition, coolers can be installed in a hole in the wall, which will ensure ventilation of rooms where there was no ventilation at all initially.

Features of ventilation of a bathroom in a private house

The air enters the bathroom and from other rooms. For ventilation, a small gap (2-2.5 cm) is left between both the floor and the door leaf or special ones are purchased, the canvas of which has round ventilation holes. Air escapes through an open ventilation duct. If the doors are solid, and a very responsible installer also did not leave a single gap, the bathroom will have to be left open for ventilation. The same goes for the toilet. With doors ajar and air flowing, unwanted odors will leave the room faster than if it were clogged. This is how natural works.

A well-designed ventilation system is an integral part of the bathroom or toilet.

This system is as simple as possible, but unreliable. In modern houses and cottages, ventilation is increasingly failing. Complicate work:

Sealed doors and plastic windows;
Reducing the lumen of the channel as a result of contamination with dust, dirt, cobwebs;
Incorrectly designed hood;
Windy weather;
An uninsulated channel, inside which the air cools quickly and slowly rises.

Attention! When the fan is running, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air into the ventilated room. Otherwise, air exchange will not be effective.

If the device removes 100 m3 of air per hour, at least the same amount must be supplied, which is not possible with hermetically closed doors.

Forced ventilation: DIY

It is customary to separate the ventilation ducts of the kitchen and the bathroom by building codes, and the separate bath and toilet are usually combined with a common ventilation duct or a hole in the adjacent wall, which is covered with a decorative grille. Less often, each room is equipped with separate ventilation and its own exhaust “window”.

Varieties of fans for arranging a ventilation system

Types of exhaust devices for the bathroom and toilet:

Axial fan (wall, ceiling) for channels 100, 125, 150 mm.
Centrifugal fan (wall, ceiling) for channels 100, 125, 150 mm.
Supply and exhaust heat exchangers, depending on the manufacturer and model, require one hole with a diameter of 215-225 mm or two 80-90 mm each with a distance of 200-350 mm between them. A device of this type provides supply and exhaust ventilation with the possibility of heating the incoming air.

Re-equipment of natural ventilation

If the bathroom already has natural ventilation, this will greatly simplify the work. It is enough to remove the grille, install a fan in the hole and connect it to the power supply.

Most often, it is necessary to equip ventilation from scratch when in a private house a room not previously provided for this becomes a bathroom. In this case, ventilation is done through a wall or ceiling (roof). Each method has its own nuances of advantages and disadvantages.

Advice. A check valve is a very useful thing when installing ventilation. It does not allow air from the street to get back into the house.

ventilation through the wall

This option has undeniable advantages. Good air exchange can be done where there is no duct system or the ability to build one. The whole installation process is quite simple and relatively cheap. Save space under the ceiling or in the attic. Of the minuses: natural ventilation is almost completely absent, since the channel is blocked by the blades; the likelihood of drips from condensation on the facade of the house; poor thermal insulation of the channel, which will be noticeable in severe frosts.

With a competent and careful approach, even a beginner can install a ventilation system

An exhaust hole is made on the wall opposite the door using a puncher or a powerful impact drill. There is a lot of dust and debris in the process of work, and the edges of the hole will most likely not be very smooth. Another thing is expensive, but almost perfect diamond drilling. The ventilation duct in the wall will be a pipe of a suitable diameter made of plastic or stainless steel. Around the circumference it is fixed with mounting foam. Outside the house, it is impractical to bring the pipe a long distance from the wall. You can cover the channel from the street with an ordinary grate with a visor or a check valve.

Attention! When choosing a place for drilling on a wall or ceiling, you should make sure that there are no electrical wiring and other communications on the site.

Ventilation through the roof

Another option: make a hole in the ceiling, from it, through the roof, bring the ventilation pipe to a height of about 3 m. It is recommended to use galvanized or plastic ones. Preferably no turns. Less resistance, better traction and ventilation. A diffuser is installed on the roof. The deflector is not needed, since ventilation is forced. The pipe is insulated with foiled mineral wool with a diameter of 50 mm. The seams are sealed with foil tape. If this is not done, condensation in cold weather cannot be avoided.

A home-made ventilation duct is attached strictly vertically with clamps to the rafters, or other durable structures in the attic. From the side of the bath, ventilation equipment is installed in the hole.

How long should the fan run

Usually the fan is connected with the light. The light turns on - the fan works, the light turns off, the device, respectively, and the air movement stops. This may not be enough for normal air exchange. In addition, it is not always convenient.

There are several main ways to connect exhaust equipment:
Along with the light. When connected to the light circuit, the device starts working at the moment the light is turned on;
Simultaneously with the light with the possibility of manual shutdown. If necessary, you can disconnect ventilation and lighting if the device is equipped with a key or a cord on the case to turn off the power;
Simultaneously with the light with automatic fan shutdown via humidity sensor and/or timer;
Independent connection to a separate switch.

The operating time of the fan depends on the temperature and humidity conditions and the power of the device, and therefore in each case individually. Experts say that the best solution is to install a model with a timer and a humidity sensor. That is, every time after visiting the bathroom, the device works for some more time. How much, it is better to calculate individually. For example, the volume of the sanitary unit is 16 m3, and the productivity of the device is 120 m3/hour. It turns out that it takes 8 minutes to update the entire volume of air. The humidity sensor will not allow the device to turn off if the microclimate has not had time to normalize during this time.

Do-it-yourself fan installation

Immediately before installing the device, it is necessary to complete the preparatory work: equip or clean the ventilation duct, supply power. The next key point will be familiarity with the instructions.

Scheme of the ventilation system

The device is installed in the following sequence:

Take off the front cover.
Mark the junction with the wall and drill holes for the screws. Also, fans can be mounted on liquid nails, polymer glue, silicone.
The device is installed in such a way that its working part is completely drowned in the channel.
Fix on the surface of the wall or ceiling.
Connect to power. The standard connection diagram for a model with a timer and a sensor looks like this: N to zero, L to phase, Ls to the phase that comes to the light bulb after the switch.
Attach the front cover, which snaps into place or is screwed on with self-tapping screws.
The last step is to check if the ventilation is working properly.

Advice. Natural and forced ventilation can work simultaneously. To do this, a special fan model is installed in a wide ventilation duct. In addition to the electrical part with blades, it is equipped with a grill for free air movement.

In general, it is not difficult to organize forced ventilation based on natural ventilation. Ventilation equipment from scratch will become more laborious, but even it can be done independently.

Video: Installing a fan in a bathroom or toilet

Hello dear friends. Today we will talk about very important, although, at times, not conspicuous things. When planning the design or renovation of bathrooms, the ventilation system should always be considered. The problem of air exchange is a serious and very important stage of repair. In SNIPs and regulations regarding ventilation, the standard of air exchange norms in rooms in which there is an abundant release of water vapor is always prescribed in separate paragraphs.

It should be remembered that ventilation is not only a matter of comfort and convenience. First of all, it is very important for health. Moreover, in rooms from which water vapor is not removed in proper quantities, a fungus or mold always starts.

If the harmful flora has already begun to develop under the tiles or on the sides of the shower cabin (and it is not so easy to notice the fungus, it develops very secretly for about a year), then the lack of a ventilation system helps it grow and spread in the form of spores through the air.

Construction guides of all countries and peoples contain a number of standards that must be strictly followed in order to ventilate wet rooms.

Ventilation systems should enrich the bathroom with 25 cubic meters of air every hour. For a combined bathroom (bathroom + toilet), ventilation should bring 50 cubic meters of air. Moreover, these standards are minimal.

Specialists in ventilated systems advise to ventilate the bathroom with an air exchange of 75 cubic meters per hour and 150 cubic meters for combined bathrooms.

For bathrooms, there are two types of ventilation: natural and forced. The method of application of each of them depends on the specifics of air exchange. Natural ventilation ensures the exchange of air by suction from the external environment, which can only take place due to pressure differences.

Air masses can get inside through a window, a door, a ventilator and so on. It must be recognized that, in the case of a separate toilet room, natural ventilation is acceptable. However, for combined bathrooms, it is often ineffective.

Types of ventilation systems

Professionals advise using two types of ventilation systems:

duct ventilation system;
channelless ventilation;

The difference between these systems is obvious from their names - in the first design there is a ventilation duct, in the second - air flow is provided without it.

When working with bathrooms or bathrooms, it is desirable to exclude the creation of separate channels. It is customary to create an opening in the wall and remove the exhaust air into the general ventilation branch of the building. This procedure is not only more convenient and less expensive, but also more rational. Of course, this is applicable in multi-storey urban buildings. But, if we are talking about a private house, then you need to design ventilation at the stages of construction, in the process of building walls.

The air supply to the bathroom and toilet is realized, as a rule, through one channel - in the bathroom, after which an additional intermediate opening is created in the wall between the bathroom and the toilet for the passage of the exhaust air.

An exhaust fan designed for ventilation in the bathroom through the toilet can have a wide variety of appearance and size. But the most important thing is the power of the fan. It must match the current in the wiring.

Fans have the following design differences:

the axial model moves air parallel to the axis of the instrument. This is done thanks to special blades. These systems are designed exclusively for channelless designs;
diametrical models, which have a rather low productivity, have special drum-type wheels in their design;
a centrifugal type device with a spiral housing guarantees extremely high performance, however, during operation, the system creates quite a lot of noise;
the combined, centrifugal-axial device is more silent while working with the same efficiency as a simple centrifugal system.

Norms and requirements

We will study SNIPs and other regulatory documents in order to understand how much new air should come into the bathroom or toilet during ventilation.

According to the regulatory documentation, bathrooms measuring about 10 square meters or more should once receive new inflows of air masses hourly.

More than 30 cubes should leave the bathroom and toilet every hour. If the bathroom is large, then the calculation goes to the area of a small living room and multiplies by 1.5 (due to high humidity). These are the ventilation rates, these numbers are the minimum requirements.

Criterias of choice

It should be understood that in cases where natural ventilation in the toilets through the bathrooms cannot be realized (it is not possible to guarantee the influx of even 20 cubic meters of fresh air per hour), then it is necessary to install forced ventilation systems.

There are three types of ventilation:

exhaust system;
supply system;
mixed.

As for the exhaust systems, we have already discussed them - the air comes from outside, and the waste masses are discharged into the ventilation ducts.

The principle of supply ventilation is different - outside the bathroom or toilet, air masses are forced in, after which they are forced out into the channels. This is the most optimal and rational system for apartments.

When ventilating a bathroom in a private house, it is best to use mixed systems. They combine exhaust and supply systems. Air, thanks to mixed technologies, is removed and renewed with the greatest efficiency.

In order to hide the structures, decorative lattices are used. They can not only remove the technical details of ventilation from view, but also make the bathroom interior more stylish.

Household ventilation systems are:

channel;
radial.

Both types are intended for installation at the outlets of ventilation ducts. The duct fan, as a rule, has a rather mediocre design, because it is hidden in the duct itself. However, it is customary to equip a radial fan with an attractive housing; these systems not only provide efficient air exchange, but also fit perfectly into the design of your interior.

Diagnostics of the current system, if any

Before you begin to upgrade the ventilation system or clean its filters, it is necessary to carry out scheduled diagnostics. The condition of the ventilation device installed according to the principle “to the bath through the toilet” must be thoroughly studied. No need to be lazy to remove the grilles and clean the entrances and exits of the channels from dust.

To start, you need and . To do this, a paper sheet must be placed in front of the vent. If the paper sheet is strongly attracted to the ventilation niches, then there is a draft. If the sheet is motionless, then there is a clear lack of ventilation draft in the system.

It must be remembered that the design of the system is such that the pressure difference is due to the temperature difference, therefore, on a hot summer day, the draft is several times weaker than in winter or autumn.

However, even if the draft is present, and the exchange of air masses is excellent, it must be understood that this does not guarantee 100% complete correct operation of the ventilation systems.

It is imperative to check the status of the channel as much as the situation allows. Channels are cluttered with various objects, cobwebs, dust or fragments of concrete and brick after a global repair. After the system is clean, there are no more obstacles in the way of the air, and the ventilation devices themselves are clean, you can begin to modernize and improve the system itself.

Checking with a sheet of paper must be carried out twice: the first time with the doors closed, the second time with the doors open.

It is also desirable to carry out a check in the presence of an open door twice - with open air sources (open a window or front door) and with completely closed ones.

If, after sealing, the draft has dropped to almost zero, then you need to think about additional fans or compact devices for ventilation.

Specialized gratings are installed in the doors of bathrooms and toilets - air enters through them even when the doors are completely closed.

Do-it-yourself installation

When there is no ventilation system in the bathroom or toilet, then it's time to start designing and installing it yourself. Such work is carried out quite simply.

In apartment buildings, the systems are designed so that the ventilation ducts are located on the back of the baths and bathrooms. The whole procedure will consist in the fact that it is necessary to carefully create a hole and bring it into the ventilation channel. High-rise buildings should already have niches leading to ventilation ducts.

Niches themselves are usually equipped with radial, axial fans; devices are connected to power sources, one of the wires is connected either to a separate switch, or to the same one that opens the light circuit in the bathroom. This is quite handy, as the fan will be guaranteed to run when the lights come on in the bathroom.

The range of modern systems on the market of ventilation products and services allows you to install many additional attachments - gyroscopes, temperature sensors, humidity controllers, speed controllers, timers. After that, the hole is closed with beautiful decorative grilles.

In cases where the bathroom is not combined, when the bathroom contains a ventilation duct, and the toilet does not use the same technology, only twice. The first fan is installed in a niche between the bathroom. and a channel, the second - in the second niche, between the bathroom and the bathroom.

In the case when it is necessary to install ventilation in a toilet in a private house, with your own hands you can make not only an exit to the ventilation duct, but also the ventilation duct itself. Experts advise either to take into account the channels when building walls, or competently connect to the exhaust system of the furnace (if any).

Let's move on to practical schemes and projects of ventilation systems.

System design

For the introduction of fans into wall openings, the most correct is to use not only decorative grilles, but also filtration systems. If you have to knock out an additional hole between the bathroom and the bathroom (for air wiring), then the filter between the two rooms is a very rational piece of the ventilation system. After all, polluted air from the toilet will not be able to penetrate into the bathroom.

Imagine in the figure a diagram of connecting a fan to a common wiring:

The installation scheme of the ventilation system consists of the following strategic steps:

mounting the air duct (it is important to choose the correct diameter and length);
design an optimal exhaust system for bathrooms (taking into account the power of the electrical wiring);
with your own hands in the toilet (you can also with the help of a master) make a neat, even hole;
Install ventilation in the toilet or bathroom;

When ventilation systems need to be introduced into the toilets and bathrooms of private houses, it is necessary to start by organizing the connection of the ventilation duct to a common chimney; or create a ventilation duct.

When designing a new channel, it is necessary to carefully consider all the stages of laying ventilation through the bathroom.

We advise you not to use metal boxes to create a ventilation duct in a private house. Not only do metal structures oxidize, they also require dismantling and replacement every 5 years. If the exhaust air duct is used with a direct outlet to the chimney, then due to carbon dioxide, the metal surface of the box will become even more corroded.

The most rational is the installation of plastic boxes. No wonder they almost completely ousted metal from the market.

Try to avoid corrugated pipes, they are optimal only for short ventilation ducts.

The boxes must be installed during all repairs. Moreover, it is desirable to make the installation even before the process is started.

However, even after you have personally designed the entire system, made sure that it functions and complies with all standards, ventilation may fail. The problem may be with inaccuracies in the calculation of the cross sections of the ventilation ducts. Also, the most common mistakes are incorrect installation.

If a lot of time has passed after you built the ventilation system, and after this time the system began to noticeably junk, it means that a lot of debris has most likely accumulated in the channel, which falls either from the side of the roof or from the air. If one of the neighbors did such a major overhaul that affected the box, then the reason may be in traffic jams of construction debris located across the airway.

Experts advise not to postpone the inspection of the ventilation system all the time until later, it is highly desirable to service the fans a little earlier than it starts to fail.
As a rule, if the inspection is constantly postponed, then flakes of dust, cobwebs or poplar fluff fall into the fan axis, block the rotor and stator motor for a long time, after which the fan simply fails.
Of course, buying a new motor or a whole fan is a simple solution to this issue, but you still have to clean the ventilation duct. Much easier to do this work on time.
Do-it-yourself fan work includes cleaning the fan blades, thoroughly cleaning the ventilation grilles, and replacing all filters (if any).
After that, it is necessary to check the air draft using a sheet of paper or a lighter flame (we described above how this procedure is performed). If the fire from the lighter (or match) deviates at an angle of 40-50 degrees, then the operation of the fan is considered normal, if the flame does not deviate, then the ventilation duct is considered clogged and further operation of the fan is load.
In such cases, it is best to call a specialist, but you can also handle it yourself. If various attachments are included in the ventilation system - external interfaces, sensors, thermometers, remote controls, then you should definitely contact a special organization.
Also, experts pay special attention to the power of household wiring and electrical networks. Fans have two parameters by which they are distinguished - the generated pressure and power. These characteristics are related, because the greater the power of the motor, the stronger the pressure. You need to be well aware of the condition of your wiring, try to avoid high-powered fans.

All bathrooms in apartments and private houses are characterized by high humidity with constant temperature changes. If the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is calculated or done incorrectly, then mold will appear in them. And often natural air exchange for these rooms is not enough. Then you have to install a forced-type ventilation system with various fans. Otherwise, without additional ventilation, the walls in such rooms risk quickly turning into a fungal farm.

The main types of ventilation

Ventilation in the bathroom can be:

natural;
forced.

The first works due to ordinary air convection. Heated air masses naturally rise to the ceiling of the bathroom. Moreover, if there is a vent in the upper part of the bathroom or toilet with access to the ventilation duct, then the air goes further up. And instead of its departed volumes, new ones are drawn in through the door, which creates a natural draft in the room. As a result, there is a constant air exchange.

Air circulation with natural ventilation

The second works thanks to the presence of a fan that draws in or supplies additional air to the bathroom. Forced ventilation is arranged where the natural analogue cannot cope with the proper volumes of air exchange. At the same time, such systems are energy-dependent. It is recommended to choose them for installation in a home bathroom only as a last resort.

The principle of operation of forced ventilation

Forced ventilation is divided into three types:

Supply.
Exhaust.
Combined (supply and exhaust).

In the first case, air is supplied to the room from the ventilation duct through a running fan. In the second, it is forced, on the contrary, to be pulled out (sucked out) from the toilet and bathroom into the ventilation shaft. The third option is a combination of the first two ventilations.

Scheme of installation of wall and ceiling ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

Ventilation and equipment of ventilation systems

Conventional ventilation in the bathroom and toilet includes a ventilation duct to a common shaft (riser) and a grate on the wall. Plus, in addition to this, filters are often placed in the duct. But if the ventilation system is forced, then it must have a fan. A control unit and other automation are already being added to this equipment.

If exhaust or supply ventilation is selected for installation, then one ventilation duct is enough. However, for a combined supply and exhaust variant of separate air ducts between the bathroom and the street, two are required. One will be the influx of air, and the other will be its exhaust.

Design options with axial or duct fan

Duct fans for forced ventilation systems are:

axial - air movement occurs along the axis of the electric motor;
radial - the air flow inside is created with an inclination to the axis by special working blades bent forward or backward;
centrifugal - air flow is formed by creating a pressure difference inside the housing.

The easiest way is to mount an axial fan, which often comes in a single kit with a ventilation grill. It is also the easiest to maintain during the further operation of ventilation. The radial version is usually placed inside the duct at a certain distance from the grate, so there is less noise from it.

Types of axial fans for forced ventilation

The centrifugal analogue differs from them in increased efficiency and low power consumption. If you want to make ventilation in the bathroom of a large area (more than 15 squares), then it is better to install this particular fan.

The supply system is also equipped with an electric heater or a heat exchanger. She takes air for supply from the street, where it is initially cold. Therefore, in order not to have to add heating power, these air masses are preheated a little in the ventilation duct.

Installation of forced ventilation in the bathroom and toilet of the apartment is most often carried out in the exhaust version. To do this, a small axial fan of the required power is placed in the existing ventilation duct and fixed there. Air ducts already exist, it is impossible to expand or completely replace them with new ones. If necessary, it remains only to install an exhaust fan in them.

Scheme of installation of forced ventilation with a common ventilation shaft

For the cottage, you can choose any type of ventilation in the bathroom. But even here, if the house has already been built, then in most cases a system with a conventional channel hood is installed. It is easier and cheaper than others to do it yourself. This is not water supply from a well, for the device of which you need to invite installers with special equipment. Here you can do it yourself.

Fan wiring diagram

If the bathroom already has natural ventilation, then it is not difficult to supplement it with an electric fan to increase efficiency. It is only necessary to correctly calculate its power.

To install an axial duct fan, you must:

Remove ventilation grille.

Clean the air duct from dust and dirt.

Spread the fan housing with polymer glue and put it in place in the channel.

Connect the electrical wiring to this device.

Install mosquito net and front cover.

Electrical diagram of a bathroom with forced ventilation

If there are no ventilation ducts in the room, then you will have to punch them. However, first you need to correctly calculate their size and location. In such a situation, it is better to entrust the design of ventilation for the bathroom to a professional. Here it will be necessary to take into account the air exchange throughout the house, and not just in the bathroom. Without proper knowledge, it is unlikely that it will be possible to make calculations correctly and accurately.

Ventilation system mounting options

If you have to do everything yourself, then you can achieve maximum traction in the ventilation duct if you place the grate under the ceiling opposite the front door. This is how ventilation in toilets is most often equipped.

Ventilation should be built so that the air ducts have a minimum of bends inside. The fan installed inside must exactly fit the ventilation duct in size so that it does not create unnecessary noise and works with maximum efficiency.

Structural elements for ventilation installation

Also, do not place ventilation equipment near heating devices. The fan itself heats up during operation, additional heat from other devices is contraindicated for it.

Ventilation of an apartment or a country house is an obligatory component of creating a normal microclimate. In addition to maintaining a comfortable temperature and humidity, high-quality and regular air exchange is necessary. Properly calculated ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is especially important.

Despite the common points, there is some difference between the ventilation of these rooms. If the main emphasis in ventilation in the toilet is on rapid air exchange, then it is more important for the bathroom to quickly get rid of high humidity. Taking into account the requirements for the air exchange rate, the optimal type of ventilation can be considered a supply and exhaust with forced action.

Exhaust ventilation for the bathroom and toilet: how to calculate the device of the system?

The peculiarity of air exchange in the bathroom leaves its mark on the calculations. Thinking about how to make ventilation in the bathroom or toilet when performing calculations, it is necessary to make certain adjustments. So, when choosing a fan, its performance is selected in such a way that it provides a complete change of the entire volume of air in the room 2 times per hour. For bathrooms, this indicator is selected with coefficients from 3 to 5.

This leads to an increase in energy costs. With continuous operation of the fan, even a small power for a year, this can amount to a considerable amount. It is possible to reduce these costs somewhat.

Extractor in the toilet with your own hands

The easiest way to do-it-yourself ventilation in the bathroom is to combine the fan on with the light switch. When you turn on the light in the bathroom and toilet, the fan starts working at the same time, and after the lights go out in these rooms, the fan turns off.

But if such a scheme is still suitable for a toilet, then a fairly high level of humidity remains in the bathroom for some time. There is a more complex scheme for how to make ventilation in the toilet and bathroom. The fan is switched on not directly, but through a special unit with a time delay relay. After turning off the light, the fan continues to run for a while. Moreover, the owners have the opportunity to adjust this interval according to their wishes. The adjustable range of autonomous operation of the fan can range from several tens of seconds to several minutes.

Ventilation in a country toilet: how to make a hood in a wooden stand-alone bathroom?

Many country houses have the same comfortable conditions as in city apartments. But if earlier a simple combined bathroom with a shower and a toilet was the ultimate dream, then in modern cottages they equip full-fledged bathrooms, showers and bathtubs with hydromassage. Bathroom ventilation in a private house is carried out almost in the same way as in an apartment with a slight amendment.

In an apartment building, ventilation from all apartments is led to a common channel, which has access to the roof of the house. With this arrangement, the air leaving the ventilation does not enter the lower apartments. In a private house, such a ventilation duct must be installed independently, and if the house has 2 or more floors and each has its own bathroom, then you have to calculate and create an integrated exhaust system. In some cases, a simplified ventilation scheme is allowed in the toilet of a private house. If there are no windows of rooms or other rooms above, then it is allowed to output the hood directly in the outer wall. But it’s better to spend a little money so that later you don’t have to rebuild the ventilation system in an already built and finished house.

However, in many suburban areas you can find a separate toilet, built according to the classical scheme. And in this case, ventilation is necessary in the toilet in the country. Of course, it is done according to a simplified scheme and in the vast majority of cases it is of a natural type. But it would be a mistake to consider this task too simple.

Most owners limit themselves to installing this structure in the corner of the plot in the area of outbuildings, and the ventilation device comes down to cutting out a heart or a rhombus on the door.

But at the same time, they do not take into account the interests of neighbors who can put their summer kitchen or guest house nearby. Sometimes this leads to serious conflicts. In order not to spoil relations with neighbors, it is enough to install a metal or plastic pipe with a head. The pipe can have a height of 1.5-2.5 meters relative to the roof, and this is quite enough for normal air removal.

Connection diagrams and ventilation output

How to choose the right exhaust unit for the toilet?

There is a ventilation hole in the toilet of each apartment. But, due to old mines, the resistance of the air column decreases and there may be problems with the removal of exhaust air. To ensure high-quality ventilation in the toilet, fans are used:

axial - contribute to the removal of large volumes of air in the absence of resistance;
channel - more difficult to install, but more efficient than axial;
centrifugal - provide good traction, but have large dimensions, their price is higher.

Which toilet hood will be effective?

If you have a standard vertical duct, it is better to buy a centrifugal fan. The duct model will be appropriate when combining several ventilation ducts. The economical axial unit is effective only in the presence of short horizontal ducts, it is suitable for installation on the top floors of a building.

What you need to know before laying ventilation in the bathroom?

Before ventilating the bathroom and toilet, it is necessary to examine the air supply channel. In private houses, it joins the hood, or is displayed directly on the roof.

In apartments of multi-storey buildings, all exhaust systems are connected to a single channel. It is located vertically, next to the bathroom and kitchen. The air vent is connected to an accelerating satellite channel, which, after 1-2 floors, enters the common ventilation shaft of the house.

Due to the difference in air temperature outside and inside the apartment, a draft is formed in the ventilation duct, which lifts the air from the apartment up the shaft. The air pressure in the room decreases and fresh air is supplied from the street, which makes up for the pressure difference.

But over time, the air ducts become clogged, and problems arise with the ventilation of apartments on the lower floors. Therefore, it is better to install a forced fan for the bathroom in the apartment.

Which ventilation device is suitable for a private house?

For effective air exchange, natural ventilation in a private house is not enough, it will be necessary to organize a forced system. To supply and clean fresh air, it uses supply devices with built-in fans, filters and a noise absorption mechanism. The outlet of the exhaust air can be carried out naturally, or with the help of exhaust devices. The supply and exhaust system is more efficient. It can be additionally equipped with a heating unit, which will allow the incoming air to be heated to a comfortable temperature.

The supply and exhaust system belongs to energy-saving technologies, since air exchange in it can be carried out simultaneously with heat recovery (when part of the energy is returned for reuse).

The figure below shows a do-it-yourself ventilation scheme in a private house.

How to make ventilation in an already built house with an attic?

The ventilation system is laid at the design stage of the house, but it can also be laid in old houses. In this case, natural ventilation will be preferable. It will ensure constant air exchange, without heat loss and the formation of drafts. To install an exhaust hood in a private house, it is necessary to punch a hole in the attic wall to the street, lay a ventilation duct along the facade, and bring it to the roof (at least 50 cm). In order for the walls of the pipe to match the walls of the house in terms of thermal conductivity, they must be insulated. To enhance natural draft, a deflector can be installed at the top of the ventilation duct.

All doors in the rooms of the house must have gaps at the bottom for air intake. And in the hood for the toilet and bathroom, it is better to equip it with a fan that facilitates the removal of exhaust air.

The figure shows a variant of laying exhaust pipes in a small house in the country.

What preventive measures will help to avoid the formation of mold in the bathroom?

During the operation of the bathroom, problems often arise with the accumulation of moisture, as a result of which mold forms, finishing elements become unusable, taps rust. Ventilation in the bathroom will help to avoid this, which will allow you to maintain optimal humidity and temperature conditions, and ensure proper air circulation in the room. She may be:

natural;
mechanical (forced).

The natural system assumes the presence of ventilation shafts, which are included in the building design. Their exits in the bathroom are closed with decorative bars. Fresh air enters the room through an open window, ventilation holes at the bottom of the door.

However, the natural system does not always work efficiently, in which case it should be equipped with an exhaust fan. It is mounted in the shaft and turns on when necessary.

Below are different schemes for organizing the hood for the bathroom.

What is the difference between natural and forced exhaust systems?

Air exchange in a house / apartment can be arranged in two ways:

based on the movement of natural air currents - provides for the presence of cracks in the windows and doors for fresh air. The disadvantage of the system is the dependence on environmental factors (wind, temperature difference, pressure). Advantages - the ability to make additional wiring from the central highway;
by laying a mechanical exhaust system. Forced ventilation can be forced ventilation (air is supplied with the help of blowing devices, and is removed naturally) and supply and exhaust (air is supplied with the help of supply devices, and is removed with the help of exhaust devices).

Natural ventilation in houses with metal-plastic windows is ineffective, since air circulation is blocked. For houses up to 300 m 2, a supply system is suitable, but what if a country house is larger? supply and exhaust.

How to connect a fan in the bathroom?

Bathroom fans can be connected in different ways. It depends on the chosen model and type of room. Their connections can be made by hand.

In order for the fan to turn on with the light, zero and ground are connected directly from the junction box, and the phase? after the switch, from which the phase wire for the lamp goes to the toilet.

It is very convenient to use a two-key switch when one key turns on the light and the other? fan. The connection diagram will look like this.

To connect a fan with a timer, 4 wires are required. Contact L is connected to the direct phase from the transfer case and the light switch, Lt ? with lamp, on N ? zero, and the last conductor is grounded.

In order for the exhaust fan to operate from a humidity / motion sensor, it is necessary to connect the phase, zero and ground? directly from the transfer case, bypassing the switches.

How to make a hood in a brick or wooden house

First you need to decide what kind of house you have: wooden or brick. Big difference. In a private house made of wood, most likely, natural shrinkage will occur over time. This must be taken into account when laying internal engineering networks in order to avoid deformation.

Selection, installation, performance of ventilation in the toilet of a private house

Brick houses and buildings made of reinforced concrete will not sag.

To avoid displacement of the ventilation system, leave expansion gaps or install a special damping device.

See also: How to choose a faucet with a shower in the bath

It is simply necessary to install a hood in a private wooden house. Wood, like nothing else, is subject to the negative effects of excessive moisture and suffers from condensation. Even if it is treated with protective agents for several layers, destruction cannot be avoided.

For more information, consider each type separately.

natural ventilation

During construction, ventilation ducts are constructed of bricks or ready-made plastic tubes are used for their manufacture, closed with decorative protective grilles.

There is another way. Installing a special nozzle with an inlet valve on plastic windows, which will provide additional outflow.

Some useful tips if you decide to make natural ventilation in the bathroom:

Combine channels leading from different rooms together if they are on the same floor level.
Channels from different rooms can be connected together in the attic. But only if they are located on the same side of the house.
Consider the fact that natural ventilation has a small head. Therefore, the inner surface of the air ducts must be made smooth. Avoid unnecessary bends and turns (radius of at least 10 cm).

Forced ventilation

It is necessary to make this type of hood in the bathroom in a private house if natural ventilation cannot cope.

Or it was not equipped properly and stopped working.

Safety requirements and installation in a wooden house:

Choose exclusively non-combustible materials for arranging the ventilation duct. When mounting, avoid contact with wood, use brackets.
Buy an extract only with fire dampers, which, in the event of smoke, will limit the air supply.

See also: How to buy a faucet for a bathroom sink

Installation rules:

The hood in the room should be made as high as possible.
Install fans away from water to avoid short circuits.
It is better to install ventilation before cosmetic finishing, when you can still hide the wires in the wall.
To reduce the noise from the hood in the bathroom - pour a layer of silicone sealant.
Or buy a silencer.

For more information, watch a video about arranging a bathroom in a wooden house.

Which fan to choose

When choosing a fan, it is necessary to calculate the size of the room. The required power of the device will depend on it. In addition, there are generally accepted sanitary standards for air supply:

l 25 m 3 per hour - for a separate bathroom;
l 50 m 3 per hour - for combined.

If there is no time to count, you can opt for models that remove from 60 to 250 cubic meters of air. This will be the best option. Also pay attention to the presence of a special product class label - IP. The index should be higher than 30. Choose a hood with an automatic motion sensor for the bathroom and toilet. It will cost more, but it will fully justify itself by saving on electricity in the future.

It is not so easy to make a hood in a private house, sometimes it is also difficult to choose equipment that would correspond to the declared price and have maximum efficiency. But some owners unfairly accuse manufacturers of ventilation systems in the manufacture of products that "do not pull." So, sometimes incorrect installation can reduce the efficiency of the device. Therefore, in addition to all other conditions, consider the presence of a gap under the door in the room where the installation is planned.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Landscaping a summer cottage begins with the construction of a water supply system and the construction of a sewer system. In small areas with small country houses, they equip a cubicle for a closet on the street, which has a cesspool. In this case, the problem of the appearance of an unpleasant odor from human sewage often arises. True, you can take a number of measures in order to get rid of it.

Arrangement of a country bathroom

The standard design of an outdoor country toilet is a small building made of wood or bricks (in more detail: ""). It is installed above the cesspool. When using the toilet, the occurrence of stench is inevitable, since so-called anaerobic processes constantly occur in the sewage tank, which are the decomposition of organic matter with the participation of natural bacteria. As a result, methane begins to be released - it is he who is the cause of the unpleasant odor. The photo shows what a typical summer closet scheme looks like (read also: "").

This method of arranging a bathroom is considered one of the most optimal options, since as a result you can get the following advantages:

remove the collected sewage through a special hole located at the back of the building;
the floor in the booth has a solid foundation, which means that fumes from sewage will not be able to shorten the life of the building;
the design provides for natural ventilation, which contains and.

The problem of how to eliminate the smell in the toilet worries many owners of suburban country closets. First of all, ventilation is mandatory. The presence of an unpleasant odor is a side effect of the operation of the closet. An excessive concentration of gas in the bathroom should not be allowed, as this can lead to a slight poisoning, as well as a possible deterioration in health.

The ventilation system should be considered when designing a bathroom. At the same time, its location is determined, the required volume of the sewage tank is calculated, and the material for the cabin is selected.

When a decision is made on the above parameters, consider possible options for arranging ventilation for an outdoor toilet.

Features of the organization of ventilation in the country toilet

When designing the ventilation system, it must be remembered that the cause of the stench is the presence of a cesspool located under the cabin. There are ways to avoid direct contact with the source of bad smell.

For example, you can install the design of the bathroom at a distance from the pit. After installing a standard toilet model, it is connected with a plastic sewer pipe to a country septic tank or a cesspool and at the same time a ventilation pipe is connected (read also: "") using a tee. True, in order to implement this method, it is necessary to supply water to the toilet to flush sewage or manually pour it into the tank.

With a long stay in the country, such a bathroom is not very convenient to use. Therefore, the best choice is still the standard design of the closet, which provides for the movement of waste into the pit without the use of various devices. Such a bathroom in a private house with your own hands can be done without special skills.

In this case, the ventilation of the country toilet can be:

natural type, when air exchange occurs as a result of the movement of air masses from the closet room to the street;
forced type - an unpleasant odor is effectively removed with a running fan.

Both methods have disadvantages and advantages, but in any case, one of them should be used, since being without ventilation in the toilet will be very uncomfortable. At the same time, the building itself will begin to deteriorate under the influence of methane, which is able to penetrate into the pores and crevices of concrete and natural wood fibers. The choice of method is related to the financial side of the issue and the feasibility of its use. See also: "".

Forced ventilation of the toilet in the country

Forced ventilation of the country toilet is considered the most effective way, since stench vapors are removed quickly and in a timely manner. Its essence lies in an integrated approach to the problem of toilet air exchange.

Airing the closet cabin with a ventilation device is a variant of forced ventilation. Each outdoor toilet has a small window. It serves not only for lighting, but also for ventilation. To do this, you need to conduct power supply to the cabin.

The cable is usually suspended: when the toilet is located near the house, it is best to stretch the wiring from the attic to the roof of the toilet structure. The electrical cable must be carefully insulated from possible exposure to moisture.

Choosing a fan for an outdoor toilet

Since the internal area of the toilet does not exceed 2 "squares", a low-power window fan with a power of no more than 30 watts will be enough. If they plan to install it in a window, then a square model of the device will do. As for the parameters, they must correspond to the size of the window.

When it is required to make a hole in the wall for mounting the fan, then the device is selected depending on the material from which the booth is built. For brick closets, it will be square, and for wooden structures, it is more convenient to install round hoods. After the installation is completed, the device is connected to the mains and a test run is performed.

To ensure an increased influx of fresh air, an inlet hole is additionally made in the wall, the diameter of which must not be less than the internal section of the device.

You need to know that forced ventilation cannot be installed in the cesspool, since there is not enough fresh air in its volume. In the case when the device is installed in a vertically located pipe leading to the pit, then during its operation a rarefied atmosphere is formed, which can only be compensated through the booth. Often, so that the smell does not enter the building, the hole in the pit is covered with a lid, but it prevents the pressure from normalizing.

The conclusion from the above is as follows: the installation of forced ventilation is done in the booth and it cannot be equipped to ensure air exchange in the cesspool.

natural ventilation

To create a normal air exchange in the outdoor toilet, you can use a cheaper method. The natural ventilation system in the street toilet is equipped separately for the cesspool and for the cabin.

When ventilation is created in a country toilet according to a natural type, a technology is used that is in many ways similar to installing a ventilation device. Only air exchange will be carried out in a natural way between the inlet and outlet air channels.

To ventilate the cesspool, a vertical pipe is used, it is installed so that its lower part is not located at the maximum filling level of the container. Air currents arise as a draft is formed between the opening in the closet and the pipe.

To increase the speed of air movement, the diameter of the pipe should not be less than 11 centimeters, and its upper part should rise above the roof of the toilet by at least 7 centimeters. As a result, a thrust of sufficient strength is formed so that the methane is removed from the cesspool in a timely manner.

It is advisable to use a PVC pipe, since this material does not interact with aggressive media. In addition, it is easy to mount, a deflector is installed on the outer end, which will prevent water from freezing on the product. The best choice would be a model with a weather vane function, which will increase the air flow rate due to a decrease in wind pressure at the outlet on the pipe.

Necessary tools and materials

Before proceeding with the arrangement of ventilation, it is necessary to analyze the state of the bathroom - what materials it is built from, what is the thickness of the walls and the location of the cabin relative to the cesspool. After that, tools and components for installation work are selected.

Forced ventilation device is labor intensive.

You will need the following materials:

plastic 110 mm pipe - one running meter;
internal crate for the inlet air channel, which prevents debris from entering the room through the pipe - 1 piece;
protective steel shell with an internal diameter of 110 mm - 1 piece. Protects the surface of the pipe from mechanical damage in case of shrinkage of the building;
fan - 1 piece;
electrical wire and switch.

When forced ventilation is installed in the country toilet, the following tools and fasteners are needed:

if the walls are made of wood, then a drill, and when made of brick - a puncher;
hacksaw for metal;
self-tapping screws, sealant;
roulette, level;
electrical tape and pliers for installing the fan and connecting it.

Cesspool natural ventilation device.

From materials, tools and components you need to purchase:

110mm PVC pipe. Its length is determined based on the size of the toilet and the highest filling level of the pit;
deflector - its mounting diameter must match the parameters of the pipe;
bayonet shovel;
fasteners - clamps with dowels to attach the pipe to the outer wall of the closet.

Self-arrangement of ventilation

First of all, install the ventilation device in the booth. Unnecessary items are removed from the building. In the event that there is not enough natural light to carry out work in proper conditions, a temporary lamp is installed.

Cabin ventilation. The exhaust channel is located as close as possible to the hole directed to the cesspool. The installation height should be maximum, but the distance from the ceiling to the upper end of the pipe should not be less than 150 millimeters. The channel, which provides the supply of fresh air, is located in the wall, in its lower part. From the floor level, it must be mounted at a minimum height. It is necessary that the distance between the two holes be maximum, so they are placed on opposite walls of the bathroom.

To quickly make a hole, it is first better to outline its contours and drill according to the marking, and then knock out the resulting workpiece from the wall with effort. Then a protective shell is installed in the inlet part, inside which a plastic pipe with a crate is placed. The edges are treated with sealant for plastic pipes.

The ventilation hole located at the top is made using a similar technology.
If the fan is mounted in a window, its dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the frame. When the device is installed, it is connected to the switch and power supply.

Installation of a cesspool pipe. Initially, the required length of the ventilation pipe is calculated, and if it is necessary to cut off an extra piece of the product, use a hacksaw. Dig a small hole with a shovel before starting the cesspool.

The pipe should be behind the back wall of the booth. Holes for dowels are prepared on it. The clamps are dismantled, and the parts with a screw are mounted on the back wall of the building.

Then, a deflector is put on the pipe, which is placed in the hole leading to the pit, and fixed with clamps on the walls of the closet. The place where the pipe enters the ground is covered with sand and rammed. This can be considered completed installation of ventilation in the country toilet.

If you strictly adhere to the technology during the work, then you will get an effective system, and the smell from the ventilation in the toilet will not bother summer residents vacationing outside the city. In addition, the building will be protected from the negative effects of gases resulting from the presence of human waste in the pit.