Not a single village house can do without a stove, as it will feed and warm. Today, gas pipelines have been laid in many villages, and it would seem that it is possible to switch to a more convenient method of heating. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to give up brick stoves, which give a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick oven in the house.
To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before proceeding to the study of a specific option, several models should be considered, as there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will occupy a smaller area in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.
There are a lot of models of brick ovens. Experienced stove-makers can make their own changes to finished projects, as they already know by heart where and how internal channels should pass through which smoke is removed. Thanks to the correct scheme of their placement in the design of the furnace, it will evenly warm up and give off most of the heat to the room. It is better for novice masters to follow the already drawn up ordering schemes exactly, without deviating a single step from them, since even one incorrectly placed brick can ruin all this rather laborious work.
Types of brick kilns
Furnaces are divided into three main types according to their functionality - cooking, heating and. By choosing the right design, primarily you need to decide what exactly will be required from it.
The cooking oven has a cast iron hob for cooking and heating water. Typically, such stoves are small in size and are popular for installation in small private houses and in the country. Of course, the cooking stove is capable, in addition to cooking, also to warm a small room.
The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or a country house with a large area, and sometimes a stove bench is included in its design, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.
Always compact. It does not include a hob and is only used for space heating. Such a structure is able to warm two rooms, if it is placed between them, built into the wall.
Choosing the best place to place the oven
Having chosen the desired model of the furnace, you need to look for a suitable place for it. The building can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the furnace structure and on the desire of the owner of the house.
- The stove, standing in the middle of a large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, a kitchen and a dining room or living room. The hob will go into the kitchen, and a smooth wall with well-made masonry will become a design decoration for the living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to complete the wall to the furnace, and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition must be isolated from the furnace with non-combustible material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
- It is undesirable to build a furnace against an external wall, as it will quickly cool down there.
- When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
- The proposed place of construction must be well measured and it must be taken into account that the foundation must be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
- In order to make it easier to work, it is necessary to find an ordering scheme for the selected model.
Having decided on the model and installation site, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.
Tools, building materials for laying a brick oven
Depending on the size of the oven, it requires a different amount of materials and additional iron and steel parts, but the masonry tools are the same.
Instruments
Of the tools and fixtures for the construction of any furnace you will need:
"Goat" is a scaffolding that will facilitate work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient in that the master stove-maker can not only climb on them, but also put a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.
"Goats" will be needed when laying the upper rows Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you put them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.
You can get by with a couple of more compact "traguses", making temporary boardwalks on them From the tools you will need to prepare the following set:
1. A pick will be needed to separate and hew bricks.
2. Panicle, made of bast, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from ready-laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.
3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.
4. A plumb line is needed to verify the vertical of the walls.
5. An oven hammer is also required to separate the brick into pieces and chip off small protrusions of the hardened mortar.
6. Pliers will be needed to cut, bend and straighten the wire.
7. A rubber mallet is necessary for tapping bricks in the masonry if they are difficult to fit.
8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as parsing old masonry.
9. Trowel (trowel) of different sizes - for applying the solution and removing the protruding excess.
10. A rule will be needed to level the surface of the foundation.
11. Lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to finish the stove with tiles.
12. Stukaltse is a piece of pipe, which is also used for trimming tiles; instead of a hammer, they hit a knife.
13. Wooden spatula - for kneading and grinding the solution.
14. Metal scriber for marking.
15. The level is needed to check the horizontal rows and vertical walls.
16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and lapping lumps.
17. Jointing is necessary for the accuracy of the design of the seams if the stove is not plastered or trimmed with decorative tiles.
18. Container for mixing the solution.
19. A sieve that will help make the masonry mortar thin.
building materials
The number of materials will depend on the stove chosen, and their list is almost always the same. For a purely heating type, you do not need a hob, oven, water tank. But usually a standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:
1. Door for blower.
2. Door for furnaces.
3. Doors for cleaning ovens.
4. Valve for the chimney.
5. Burner of several rings.
6. Cooktop.
7. Grate grate.
From other metal elements you may need:
1. Oven.
2. Tank for water.
3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.
4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.
5. Steel wire.
Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:
1. Brick hardened red.
2. Fireclay brick.
3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.
4. The foundation will require cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing material for waterproofing.
5. You will also need a heat-resistant material for the protective lining of the walls of the house and a metal sheet or ceramic floor tile.
Refractory brick prices
Refractory brick
Preparing a site for the construction of the stove
Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is being built already in the finished building.
Further actions depend on which floor is arranged in the room.
- If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the slab principle, and the structure of the furnace is not designed to be too massive, then you can start laying the furnace directly on the concrete floor, after laying a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
- If the foundation is tape or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.
Foundation
The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place is marked on the floor for the oven, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.
- A pit is dug in the opened ground, 400-500 mm deep.
- At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - of crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
- Further, along the perimeter of the pit, a formwork for pouring concrete is arranged - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
- The bottom layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed evenly over the entire area, and left to harden.
- After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour the top layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully prepared concrete mortar and leveled with a rule, and the upper formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it is necessary, starting from the second day, to moisten with water, which will improve the uniformity of the maturation of the cement mortar and prevent cracks from forming.
- A completely finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing material to create a waterproofing layer. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the base of the furnace is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.
Dry masonry
- For a novice stove-maker, experienced craftsmen recommend not to rush to lay bricks on the mortar, so as not to make mistakes. Especially in the event that this work will be carried out for the first time, it is best to bring the entire furnace structure dry.
- Carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing scheme, you can understand the internal design of the chimney channels and the arrangement of the furnace and blower.
- For dry laying, it is necessary to prepare auxiliary slats having a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - it will be filled with mortar during the main laying, forming seams.
- After the entire stove model to the chimney is laid out, it is again dismantled, while the bricks of each of the rows can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
- It should be immediately noted that during the final laying, each of the rows is also better to first, for control, lay out dry again, and then immediately fix it to the mortar.
- In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber mallet. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
- After laying two or three rows, until the mortar has set, the seams are decorated with embroidery. If suddenly the solution was not moist enough, it can be sprinkled with a little water from the spray bottle.
- We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.
Knowing these nuances, you can go directly to the masonry.
The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for a very small room. True, other additional functions are not included in it:
Video: heating stove for small spaces
Compact "Swede"
Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish stove It can be called the most accurate and compact oven, suitable for small spaces. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with chimney channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, giving off heat to the room. At the same time, there is also a hob in the design.
The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider gable part than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows above the stove, a drying niche is made. This version of the furnace is twice as wide as the second model.
This is also a "Swede", but of a slightly different design. The ordering scheme shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, a niche is arranged above the hob, a slightly different pipe location is on the other side of the structure, and consistent roundness of the corners. When laying in this order, the oven will look something like this.
The design is laid out, based on the ordering scheme:
Scheme-ordering for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swede" Although this diagram shows that from the first row they begin to lay out the blower chamber, after all it is worth laying it out as a solid plane, and only from the second row you can start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the scheme, and the first solid row can be called “zero”.
- So, from the first row, the formation of the blower chamber begins.
- On the second row, a blower door is installed. The door is fixed to the wire and temporarily supported by bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.
- From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be brought out and doors are also installed on them.
- On the fifth row, a grate is laid.
- The firebox door is also fixed with wire on the sixth row, and is also supported for a while by bricks mounted on the grate, and also if necessary, a support is also placed on the front side of the door.
- On the seventh row lay the beginning of the vertical chimney channels.
- On the ninth row, the firebox door is blocked with a brick, the wire of which it is fixed, removed into the seams between the rows.
- On the eleventh row, a hob is laid on the left opening, strips of asbestos are laid under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed with a steel corner.
- From the twelfth to the sixteenth row, the cooking chamber is displayed.
- On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed into a corner.
- The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three chimney channels.
- On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and a cleaning chamber and a niche for drying begin to form.
- At 22- ohm in a row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
- On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and a hole is left at its end, which will continue the chimney channel.
- At 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
- At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
- At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
- At 28- ohm covers the entire chamber.
- At 30- ohm in a row, two valves are installed on the chimney channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the solution, and then the valve is inserted into it.
- From the 31st to the 35th th row is laid out segment .
- From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
- Next, comes the laying of the pipe, which already has his own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, only it is necessary to carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from mortar residues) of the chimney channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
- On the third row, they put another door on the cleaning chamber.
- At 27- ohm a row put another chimney valve.
- At 29- ohm make the expansion of the pipe by one row, and by 30 ohm it is returned to its original form.
- Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is led out through the roof.
When the chimney passes through the attic floor, it must be isolated from it with combustible materials - it can be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, covered in a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.
The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes, after construction, must be closed with waterproofing material, which is applied both to the pipe and to the roof.
Installation of other oven elements
As mentioned above, other elements can be built into the oven, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.
Oven
If the design provides for an oven, then it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.
- In the place where it will be installed, metal corners are first mounted - they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.
- Further, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet last longer.
Video: laying technology for an efficient oven with an oven
Prices for masonry mixtures and adhesives for special purposes
Masonry mixes and adhesives for special purposes
hot water tank
The hot water tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the design of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the chimney channel, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, it is necessary to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is desirable to make a water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, which is of little use for water procedures.
Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it on the same level with the hob, above the firebox, when it will heat up only from below. In this case, it is best to lay a cast-iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the furnace.
The inconvenience of such an installation is that there is less space left for the hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means that the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.
When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.
It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even every experienced craftsman always succeeds perfectly. Therefore, if there are no skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help to do everything right.
The construction of complex variants of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires great patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if funds are available, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a furnace with their own hands should study the advice of experts on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.
Performing accurate calculations and strict adherence to the laying scheme will allow you to get a reliable thermal unit and, with its further use, will provide protection against ignition and carbon monoxide poisoning. Therefore, any stove must meet the basic requirements - not to smoke, supply heat and guarantee fire safety. For beginners for construction, it is better to choose a simple model of the device in order to independently carry out high-quality laying of the furnace.
Construction tools and equipment
For installation work are used:
- acute-angled and rectangular sledgehammers;
- plumb;
- brackets (mooring);
- combined trowel;
- a hammer;
- rammers;
- putty knife;
- level, square and tape measure;
- meter (folding);
- seam liners, markings for openings, templates for channels;
- brick and clay (red);
- cement;
- sand;
- grate;
- doors, stove (cast iron) and latches;
- aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).
Procedure
1. First stage.
To verify the accuracy of the calculations, first lay the masonry according to the finished scheme of the unit, but without using the mixture. The furnace is mounted on a foundation that complies with all technical safety rules. To do this, they dig a pit (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (layer 11 cm), and concrete is loaded from above. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, a quadrangle of bricks is placed, which will serve as the basis for the furnace. Using the level, check the horizontal masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, they are placed on the mixture and pressed down (slightly), and its excess is removed with a spatula and the further construction process is continued according to the same principle.
A roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, a blower door for the oven, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard, is attached with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, here a grate is placed above the blower. The laying of building material on the 4th tier takes place on the edge. A chimney is built inside the furnace. On the back surface of the device, the masonry is made without a mixture so that its edges protrude slightly from the main row, which will facilitate the cleaning of the smoke passage hole from debris.
The firebox door is wrapped with an asbestos cord and fixed on the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is located flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are hewn, the grate is fixed flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. Brick (at level 7) is laid out flat, and on the back wall of the furnace a couple of pieces are attached to the edge. The furnace door is covered with the eighth tier of masonry.
2. Second stage.
Further, work on the furnace continues according to the finished scheme until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast-iron slab is mounted on the mortar (with a slight shift back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners from above. The pans are supported by strips of steel inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and strengthened from the fourteenth row, through the next 2, to the twentieth. On this tier are placed: a corner, a frame and an exhaust channel made of sheet iron. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.
3. The third stage.
After making the thermal unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and painting work begins. The oven surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewashing. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, a liquid layer of the composition is applied to the outside of the masonry, and after it dries, a denser layer is applied. Whitewash the stove with lime mortar and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for coating masonry, since when heated they emit vapors that are harmful to health.
1. When building a furnace with your own hands, strong and properly fired bricks should be used, with a smooth surface and without various damages, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, using a hammer, you need to break one brick, if it breaks up into large pieces, then it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is made, a refractory type is used that can withstand strong heat.
2. The reliability of the furnace design depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.
3. The thickness of the seams - from 3 to 5 mm.
4. Pre-prepared recesses in the bricks, designed to install the grate, dampers and doors, provide the latter with a longer operation. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.
5. Bricks on the tiers of masonry are placed as close as possible to each other. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked against the finished scheme of the device, which allows you to control its exact observance.
6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing an iron pre-furnace sheet or a plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is advised to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).
7. It is permissible to start operation 14 days after completion of installation work. Hardening of the unit is recommended to start with the burning of thin chips to prevent cracking. After the end of the furnace process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed with the help of valves.
Cost of materials and labor
Self-construction of the furnace is much cheaper compared to the services of a skilled worker. The minimum price for the work of the master starts from 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually at the conclusion of the contract. Payment for work and the cost of laying for various types of furnaces are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of the building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. An important role is played by the types of cladding. Finishing with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).
Average cost of building supplies:
The cost of a brick varies from 20 to 150 rubles per piece. The difference in prices is also present when buying castings and other masonry materials. If a door for a Russian-made firebox costs 400 rubles, then an imported one costs 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for building a stove (consumption for 35 bricks) is 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after a thorough study of the future design, taking all measurements.
During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The cost calculation also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of masonry materials, which is assigned by carriers.
| Articles |
The scheme of a brick heating furnace depends on what you want to end up with. It can be heating, or maybe just cooking food.
After all, the functionality may be different. Today we will consider furnaces heating brick drawings and the rules for performing work.
You will also learn about the types of this design and their purpose. Also in the video in this article, see the options for the manufacture and use of each type.
The right choice of masonry scheme
Heating brick ovens: drawings will need to be done before work begins. Indeed, depending on the type, a different amount of brick and finishing material will be required. It is quite possible to make any of the proposed types with your own hands, in which case the price of the product will be much lower.
Types of ovens
Brick heating stoves: schemes are divided depending on the application.
Depending on the design, furnaces can be divided into the following types:
| heating stove | Its main purpose is to heat any room.
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| cooking oven | Its purpose is to cook food. For heating, it is simply not effective.
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| Heating and cooking stove | It has all the advantages and disadvantages of the two previous types.
|
So:
- A stove for a home must have a number of mandatory characteristics: heat the room, be safe for others, and create comfortable living conditions.
- Not everyone can fold a stove with their own hands, which would have similar characteristics. The slightest mistake in the calculations can be costly, just like poor quality work. As a rule, masters are invited for this.
- Nowadays, the task is somewhat simplified by the presence of a huge amount of information about laying furnaces on the Internet. Here you can get acquainted with the technique of laying the furnace in detail by watching the corresponding video.
Schemes of heating furnaces
Before choosing, you should familiarize yourself with the device options for each design.
Immediately you need to think about the installation system. After all, each design has its own requirements. For heavy ones, a large foundation is required. For cooking, it will be possible to get by with a small stove.
Preparatory work
First you need to decide on the place of construction of the future furnace. The first time the oven is erected is when housing is being built, which means that the shape and dimensions of the oven have already been determined, as well as its location.
So:
- The location of the stove largely depends on the layout of the entire building, and its location should be such that it effectively heats the entire living space.
- If the place is determined, you can start building the foundation. Its dimensions should be somewhat larger than the geometric dimensions of the furnace. During its construction it is necessary to put waterproofing.
- When laying, it should be remembered that the seams should be minimal, and evenness should be maximum.
- When laying out the internal surfaces of the chimneys, there should not be any influx of mortar, and the surfaces should be even. It is advisable to remove the excess solution that stands out from the seams. Both sides and corners must be carefully laid out.
Attention: The foundation must support the weight of the structure. Therefore, it will need to be reinforced. This will give additional rigidity.
Need a tool
To carry out such work, you will need the following tool:
- Trowel (trowel).
- Putty knife.
- Building level.
- Plumb.
- Lacing.
- Container for solution.
- Shovel or drill.
- Soft wire.
- Roulette.
Ways and order of laying
We do masonry
Furnaces can be built in a variety of ways. This can be masonry with empty seams or masonry in pruning.
Note: These methods are fundamentally different. When laying in undercutting, the seams are completely filled, and such an oven is not plastered. The thickness of the walls of the furnace can be made in brick or half a brick.
For laying furnaces, only red solid bricks should be used. In this case, you can not use a used brick, slotted brick or other building materials that are not intended for this.
Masonry technology consists of several stages:
- We cover the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. It can be a simple ruberoid. We make the basement. Its height is determined individually. Just don't make it too high. It is made as a solid masonry without voids.
- The first row can be laid out with bricks, without the use of mortar. After that, the bricks are aligned and the location of the front wall and the location of all doors are determined. After that, laying continues, but using a solution. As a rule, a solution of ordinary clay is used for laying furnaces.
- Then you can install vertical beacons using plumb lines and ropes or fishing line.
- Furnace elements such as a blower, an ash pan or a combustion chamber are located depending on the design of the furnace. As a rule, the blower is located after the third row of masonry, and one row after it is an ash pan.
- Then the firebox is laid out. The firebox door and blower are fastened with soft wire.
- The next in turn is the stove vault, which is formed after the second row of bricks laid out above the firebox.
- The combustion chamber is laid out with refractory bricks. To increase the efficiency of the furnace, it must be equipped with various valves that regulate the flow of heated gases.
Technological laying order
The order of laying out the furnace is as follows:
- Without mortar, the first row is laid out and leveled using the building level.
- Bricks are laid out at the corners with mortar and strictly horizontally. After that, the space is filled with bricks, using mortar. This will be the first row.
- After laying out the first row, the evenness of the sides of the oven is checked with a tape measure. If there is a difference, then they are corrected with a mallet, knocking out one or another corner brick.
- After that, you can start laying out the second row. The laying starts from the corners and continues laying around the entire perimeter. After the perimeter is laid, the middle of the second row is laid.
- Then, at the corners, between the first and second row, nails are hammered, 80 mm long, and using a plumb line, the corner is projected onto the ceiling.
In the place of the projection of the corner, a nail is hammered and the rope is pulled from the bottom to the ceiling. This operation is done with all corners.
- The stretched cords will serve as a guide for further work. Subsequent rows, relative to the vertical, will be controlled by stretched cords that define the contour of the future furnace.
- All subsequent rows are laid out in the same way, controlling the horizontal position using the building level. During laying, you need to make sure that there is no excess mortar, and the walls of the chimney should be wiped with a wet cloth every 4-5 rows. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the solution in these places completely fills the seams.
- The seams of the brickwork for the stove are made as thin as possible, and the filling of the seams is 100%. Masonry with thick seams is less durable, as their partial loss is possible.
- The laying of the furnace is carried out with the dressing of bricks, otherwise it will not hold. The meaning of the dressing is that the vertical seam of the next row is somewhere in the middle of the brick of the previous row. This does not always work out and the vertical seam “walks” from the center of the brick either to the left or to the right. This should be constantly monitored and adjusted in such a way that the center of the vertical row does not go beyond ¼ of the brick.
- The cut brick lies outside the chimney channel, since the cut surface is considered weaker and can collapse under the influence of temperature.
The use of fireclay bricks
Fireclay brick has excellent resistance to high temperatures and therefore it is used to form a combustion chamber.
- Due to the different coefficients of thermal expansion, the bricks of the combustion chamber are not tied up with the bricks of the furnace. Between them there should be a gap of about 5 mm.
- When laying out a firebox from fireclay bricks, you can lay out the entire row or, after laying out, line the firebox with fireclay bricks.
Before installing the door, it should be checked for a good fit and free rotation on the hinges.
So:
- If there are distortions or lack of smooth rotation, such defects should be eliminated, and if this is not possible, then replaced with new ones. You should also determine if there are mounting holes available.
- For fastening, a soft (knitting) wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm and a length of about 50 cm is used. The wire is inserted into the hole and twisted.
- It is impossible to install the door after masonry, so it is installed during the masonry process. In order for the door to hold well, the wire must sit in the seams, between the rows of bricks. Since the masonry lies from the bottom up, the door is fixed in the same order. First, the lower ends of the wire are immured, and then the upper ones.
- After laying the lower fastening ends, the door must be set strictly vertically and horizontally, followed by fixation. After the door is exposed, you can continue further work.
- This installation technique can be used to fasten the doors of the combustion chamber, the doors of the blower and other metal objects, such as valves, soot pans, etc.
- A very important stage is the installation of the plate. It is installed on a solution of clay. The consistency of the grout should be such that the excess grout comes out freely from under the plate, as a result of the pressure of its own weight. Its quantity should be such that it fills all the free space. It cannot be allowed to be small. In the future, under the influence of high temperature, the clay will sinter and will reliably hold the plate on the surface.
- After finishing work, you need to allow the stove to dry completely. This is at least 14 days, after which the stove can be fired.
- To make the oven attractive, it can be overlaid with tiles. This is where the quality of masonry can come in handy, especially if it was done by hand. It will be easy to lay tiles on a very flat surface, especially since high demands are also placed on its laying due to the presence of high temperature.
Brick heating stoves: we select drawings depending on the chosen design. The laying of the working part is best done on clay mortar. You have instructions and, by selecting the desired model from the photo, you can get to work.
Those who have a house or cottage think about heating the room. The sales market has a large number of such products, but not everyone can afford to buy what they want. Especially an expensive thing in a small room and not everyone wants to buy. Although it is possible to solve the heating issue, install the usual rude with a stove bench, which you can do with your own hands.
This is a small brick oven that will heat the room and make it possible to cook food, you can equip the oven with a bench, and plaster or cladding will allow you to harmoniously fit the unit into the interior.
To make a rude with your own hands, you will need to prepare materials. Try to take all the components for the manufacture of a stove with a stove bench of good quality, because the design will serve you for more than one year.
- The brick is ceramic. This will be the facing of the product. Take without chips and one color. It is available in various configurations, so first you should draw up a drawing of the product and decide what appearance it will have. Instead of lining the stove with a stove bench, decorative or ordinary plaster can be used. If plaster is used, then the surface can be painted.
- The brick is refractory. It is able to withstand high temperatures. Calculate how much you need to make a do-it-yourself furnace compartment.
- Clay and sand will be required in the manufacture of mortar for masonry structures.
- Fireclay powder will be used as an additive to the solution.
- Grids. It is advisable to take made of cast iron. Metal, when using coal, will burn out very quickly.
- Furnace door.
- Blower door.
- Smoke damper.
- For waterproofing, you should take roofing material.
Montage rough
The stove is rude with a do-it-yourself stove bench begins to be built from the foundation. A brick oven with a bench has a fairly large weight and the foundation must withstand it. When planning to build a rough with a stove bench with your own hands, you first need to draw up a work plan. Keep in mind that rude with a stove bench can be different. If a stove with a stove bench is being built, then it makes sense to equip a separate firebox for the hob. Since in the summer it is unlikely that anyone will use a hot stove bench, and the presence of a separate firebox will save fuel.
Here is what the design of the furnace is:
- The lining is just two rows made of ceramic bricks. Serves as a basis for further installation of the furnace.
- The underfire chamber with an ashpit approximately occupies four rows of brickwork.
- The firebox is a chamber where fuel is burned, approximately occupies eleven rows (selected individually).
- Convector - special channels in which the outgoing gases give off their heat to the furnace structure. This will take about seventeen rows.
The ashpit is made of solid ceramic bricks. In the manufacture of a do-it-yourself firebox, refractory bricks are used.
Foundation
Determine the location of the furnace - and you can start. Building a foundation with your own hands is not a very fast process.
- We make markings at the place of installation.
- We dig a hole 25 cm larger than the size of the product.
- We fill it with rubble. You can use the battle of bricks and any stones that are on the site.
- We ram it all in the pit.
- We make a liquid solution. We take cement grade 300 and mix in a container with sand in a ratio of 1:2. Add water and bring to a liquid state. Pour gravel until completely filled.
- After drying, we put a continuous row of bricks over the area of \u200b\u200bfilling. When laying, we use the building level, the foundation area should be parallel to the ground.
- We lay the roofing material after the masonry has dried. This will be waterproofing.
Masonry is rough
To make a structure with your own hands, you should use it with the addition of fireclay powder. Cement mortar does not hold temperature well, so it should not be used. First you need to determine the proportion of clay that should be used when mixing the solution. To prepare a solution with your own hands, you need to mix clay with sand in different proportions and mold the balls.
Lay down and let them dry completely. After drying, each of the balls is dropped onto a hard surface from a height of one meter. One that will not break or wrinkle, and will be the correct ratio of components.
- Before preparing the solution, all components should be sifted through sieve with a cell of about 5 mm. With your hands, carefully touch the entire dry mixture and remove excess debris and unnecessary pebbles.
- The resulting dry mixture is poured into a box for preparing a solution. Pour in water and allow the clay to infuse (sour). It is better to start preparing the solution in the evening. By morning the solution will be ready. Such a mixture will lie well on the brick, with light pressing all the seams will be filled.
- The next morning, mix the solution again and bring it to the state of sour cream. For kneading, it is better to use a drill using a special nozzle for kneading the solution.
Attention: before doing the masonry with your own hands, lay out the first row dry and determine the correct design.
Masonry technology
This will allow the whole structure to work correctly:
- It is necessary to choose the correct section of the chimney, which is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.
- The chimney should not be less than five meters.
- Horizontal sections of the structure should not be more than 1 meter.
- Provide space for cleaning and maintenance of the structure.
- The total wall thickness of the chimney must not be less than 0.5 mm.
- There should be no more than three turns in the channel structure.
- There should be no connections at the transition, and this part is protected by a special branch pipe.
- Connections are fastened with clamps and treated with sealant. Exhaust gases must be prevented from entering.
- After installation, the pipe must be insulated, this will reduce the amount of condensate and retain heat.
The finished brick oven is being finished. The easiest option is plaster with subsequent painting. Decorative plaster can also be used. For finishing, ordinary plaster based on clay, sand and cement is used. But it is even easier if the plaster is done using a ready-mix.
It should be noted that plaster is used not only to improve the appearance. Properly applied plaster provides additional tightness of the brickwork.
And in order for the plaster to hold well, it is necessary to apply the composition on a cleaned surface with previously cleared seams. After the plaster has dried, the surface can be painted.
The proposed rough design will fully satisfy the heating needs for a small room. Having worked, everyone can make it with their own hands. Although for a large room you need to do something more serious.
At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a house, the profession of a stove-maker was very popular and respected. Today, for the arrangement of individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick ovens are still in demand.
Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove-maker is not an easy task. Yes, and you don’t need to do this, because you can lay out a full-fledged stove with your own hands.
Before proceeding with the self-laying of the furnace, familiarize yourself with the features of the existing varieties of such units. The ovens are:
- heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such furnaces have an extremely simple design and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
- heating and cooking. The most popular and demanded option. At the same time they heat the house and allow cooking;
There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with a built-in stove or even a full-fledged oven.
Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is a great option for a modern private home. Such designs perfectly cope with the tasks of space heating and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.
Schemes of modern furnaces distinguish them not only by purpose, but also by the features of the form. Most often, units of rectangular and square shape are installed in private houses. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select the specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.
The oven, of course, can be laid out with your own hands and numerous schemes will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any furnace, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.
The choice of location and type of foundation for the stove
Before starting the laying of the furnace, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.
If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), cold air will constantly “walk” near the floor. Therefore, in this regard, you need to make your own decision.
Pre-determine the installation location of the furnace door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible without spreading garbage from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the furnace door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-visited room.
The finished brick stove will have a fairly impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and for a long time as possible, an individual concrete foundation must be prepared for it.
Furnace design features
Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the simplicity that seems at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high rates of productivity and efficiency.
The main elements of the body of a brick oven are the firebox and the chimney. Cooking ovens are additionally equipped with stoves and / or ovens, it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.
The firebox is the main part of the furnace unit. It is in the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can be of various sizes. When determining the appropriate dimensions, several important factors must be considered, such as:
- type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
- required performance;
- required volume.
To equip the firebox, use refractory bricks. The wall thickness of the structure under consideration cannot be less than half a brick.
The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating furnace. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the furnace.
At the design stage of the chimney, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to a deterioration in traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.
Among the important structural elements of a brick oven is the ash pan chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, air is supplied through the ash pan to the inside of the unit, to the fuel. The ash chamber is arranged under the grate of the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pan is 3 bricks.
What mortar to use for masonry?
The quality of the masonry mortar directly affects the reliability and durability of the finished furnace. Masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay mortar.
There is nothing difficult in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into "clay milk". Finally, add some water to get a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.
Remember, the reliability and strength of the furnace directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. Do everything right - the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Break the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for at least a long time.
The main stages and important features of laying the furnace
From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and be able to withstand the weight of a brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so tune in to work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.
The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.
First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from the brick. Carry out masonry using the previously discussed sand-clay solution.
Second phase. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to fix the door.
Third stage.
Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Surround the inside of this compartment with refractory bricks. Bricks lay out "on edge". At this stage, you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is taken, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door with a steel plate and the wire you already know.
Fifth stage. Continue the standard laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and evenly lay the tiles with burners. This plate must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the laying using the building level.
Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is built in the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer course is being equipped.
Seventh stage. Install the stove and lay out the walls of the cooking compartment. Keep the calculation of the lower cap mentioned earlier.
Eighth stage. Install a gate valve for the mentioned summer run channel. This valve is located in the inner corner of the brewing compartment.
Ninth stage. Lead the laying to the 20th row. Having reached this row, close the cooking compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave in the solid masonry the required number of openings for the summer run and the lifting channel, as well as the vents of the cooking compartment. Place bricks on steel corners - this way you will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.
Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better that the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the process of fuel combustion and admire the flame.
Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a place to which it will be easiest for you to get to.
Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the cap almost to the top edge of the wall opening. At the top, block the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. This will provide additional thermal insulation and slightly increase the heating efficiency.
Thirteenth stage. Lay out a decorative belt around the upper perimeter of the unit.
Fourteenth stage. Proceed to the device of the chimney pipe. It is better that the chimney was brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.
In the end, you just have to lay out the chimney to the end and, if desired, finish the exterior of the stove. The easiest option is plastering. Otherwise, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.
Thus, laying the stove, although not a simple event, but it is quite possible to do it yourself. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work should be of the highest quality. And the schemes of furnaces tested over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will heat your house for many years without any problems and complaints.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself laying stoves
