Sheathing with siding sloping gable roof overhangs. How to finish the gable with siding. Gable trim for siding

Finishing the house includes many stages, one of which is the sheathing of the gable with siding. This process is not much different from working with facades, but has some nuances associated with the special geometry of the structure. The installation of panels does not require special equipment or expensive materials; there will be no problems during all stages.

What is needed for sheathing the pediment

To avoid delaying the installation process, it is advisable to prepare the necessary materials in advance. To work you will need the following:

• Siding. At the moment, there are many types on sale, but vinyl and metal are the most preferred. The first option is lightweight and has excellent qualities, while the second requires a reliable foundation, but is distinguished by decorative durability.
• Framing details. The frame can be created from a wooden beam with a section of 50 * 40 or metal profiles mounted on suspensions. An alternative may be a special suspension system for siding, but it requires financial costs and fitting parts.
• Thermal insulation material. Its use is not always necessary: ​​for example, if the attic is non-residential. Laying insulation makes it possible to increase the energy efficiency of the house in regions with harsh winters, but subject to the insulation of the surface of the roof slabs.
• Complementary elements. Depending on the technology chosen, you will need a starting rail, a J-profile, an inner corner, a soffit, a near-window bar (if there is a window with a slope) and a casing (an opening without a recess).
• Steam and waterproofing. Protection from water is required for any work, and vapor barrier - when covering a living space with heating.
• Fasteners: screws, nails.

Separately, material for scaffolding should be provided. Alternatively, other options may be used to allow work at height to be carried out without risk.

Siding calculation

Classic gable roof

Due to the fact that such a roof has the shape of a triangle, the formula is used to determine its area: ½ * (a * h).

Calculation guide:

1. The base of the pediment is measured (a).
2. From the top of the roof, the distance to the base (h) is measured.
3. Separately, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe window, if any, is calculated. To do this, multiply the length by the width.
4. The area of ​​one sheathing panel is indicated by the manufacturer on the label.

Float:="" left="" margin:="" https:="">

The surface of the pediment can be both deaf and with the presence of window and attic openings. Gables are often made insulated to reduce heat loss through the ceiling. They are sheathed both in the process of repair work and during construction.
Vinyl siding is the most commonly used material for cladding facades and gables of a house. This is due to its low cost, variety of assortment, durability and ease of installation.
Finishing the gable with siding does not require much time and effort. Following the manufacturer's instructions, it is possible to do the installation yourself.

The easiest way to get a beautiful front lawn

Of course, you have seen the perfect lawn in the movies, on the alley, and perhaps on the neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area in their area will no doubt say that this is a huge job. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think so, professionals have long known about the innovative tool - liquid turf AquaGrazz.

To prevent technical incidents, it is necessary to take the preparatory work seriously.

• It is difficult and inconvenient to install siding panels from the stairs; you will need to install scaffolding.
• Prepare a flat area for placing the siding in a horizontal position.
• Purchase the necessary tools for work: a building level, a screwdriver, metal shears, a hammer, a tape measure, a plumb line, a jigsaw or a hacksaw, a construction square.
• Calculate the required amount of material. Typically, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging what area this amount is calculated for. It is necessary to add 10% to the required quantity - a margin for marriage and cutting.

Exterior vinyl siding

Advantages and disadvantages:

• siding is able to retain color and integrity for a long time. Its service life reaches 40 years;
• with proper installation, the panels do not deform under the influence of temperature changes;
• does not corrode under the influence of the environment;
• resistant to fire;

The disadvantages include:

• instability to mechanical influences;
• no gaps during installation, which leads to deformation under the influence of temperature differences.

Each company uses its own production technologies, and therefore the thickness of the plastic panels may vary. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase additional material and ordinary siding from the same manufacturer.

For installation you will need:

• ordinary siding;
• starting profile for fastening the bottom of the first ordinary panel;
• J-profile for installing siding around window and door openings;
• H-profile for joining siding panels along the length;
• corner elements for high-quality and aesthetic design of corners;
• finishing strips to complete the design of the structure, closing ordinary siding panels from the ends.

Hardware

An important role is played by the choice of fastening material. Nails or self-tapping screws are used to fix the siding.
At a price, nails are much more affordable than galvanized self-tapping screws, but they have a number of disadvantages:

• inconvenience of installation and dismantling. Siding panels are unstable to mechanical stress, and an inaccurate hammer blow can easily break their integrity;
• over time, the fixation may loosen and lead to loosening, which will affect the appearance of the structure.

Self-tapping screws with the advent of a screwdriver are widely used. Their advantages include:

• quick and easy installation;
• the presence of a thread, which contributes to reliable fixation;
• it is easy to adjust the degree of pressing the siding panel to the crate;
• if necessary, it is possible to dismantle the finishing material without violating its safety.

Preference should be given to galvanized self-tapping screws with a flat head, the length of which should be at least 30 mm. To prevent the appearance of rust in the attachment points, special rubberized washers are used.
Knowing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pediment, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fixing material. In horizontal panels, the fastening step is 25-30 cm. H-profiles, J-profiles and corner elements are fastened in 40 cm increments. The average number of self-tapping screws required is per 10 square meters. m - 160 pieces.

Installation work

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the pediment of the building:

• remove all decorative elements protruding beyond the plane of the wall;
• loose finishes, especially falling off, - update or completely remove;
• the wooden facade must be checked for the reliability of fastening the boards and treated with antiseptic impregnations that prevent the appearance of mold and fungus;
• it is better to give a new building time to shrink before starting to decorate the pediment.

crate

The crate is a support for fastening siding panels. The appearance of the finished roof and cornice depends on the degree of evenness of the surface on which the siding is attached. Therefore, it is required to perform it in an ideal plane.

The presence of the crate is also necessary to accommodate the heat-insulating material and the hydro-vapor barrier. About 30% of heat loss occurs through the roof.
The gap formed by the crate between the wall of the house and the siding panels promotes ventilation, reduces the formation of condensate, thereby normalizing the humidity in the room.

The crate of the pediment can be made of a wooden beam or a metal profile.
If preference is given to a wooden beam, it should be borne in mind that its humidity should be no more than 15%, the optimal section is 50 * 60 mm. To prevent corrosion, mold and insects, it must first be impregnated with an antiseptic solution.
When installing vinyl siding, the recommended distance between the pitches of the crate should be 40-60 cm. In areas prone to strong winds, it is desirable to reduce the pitch of the crate.

Metal crate

If the choice is made in favor of metal, it is necessary to choose a galvanized profile with stiffeners.
For fixing a metal profile to the base, brackets or suspensions are used.

They begin to mount the crate at the same time from two sides. A rope is pulled between the extreme profiles, which serves as a guide for observing the horizontal plane.
Then install the brackets on which the profile will be mounted. If the pediment is insulated, a heat-insulating layer and a vapor barrier are laid, after which the remaining profiles are installed.

If there are window and attic openings on the gable, the profile is additionally installed along the perimeter of the openings.

After installation is completed, be sure to check compliance with the plane using a level.

Wooden crate

The cost of a wooden crate is an order of magnitude lower. It will not be difficult to do it with your own hands.

To facilitate the work, the timber must be chosen even, dried (wet wood deforms over time and will lead the entire structure), impregnated with an anti-corrosion solution. It is advisable to use a timber according to the size of the gable of the roof.

If thermal insulation is not provided, then the crate can be attached to the base of the gable. To do this, the timber is pre-drilled and mounted to the wall through the holes obtained. Wedges are placed to maintain the plane.
If a heater is provided, the brackets are fixed according to the markup, then a layer of thermal insulation and a hydrobarrier are laid.
First of all, the extreme bars are installed, and the cord is pulled, which serves as a guideline for maintaining the plane.
After fixing the remaining timber. If there are window openings on the pediment of the house, an additional timber is attached around the perimeter.

Rules for fastening siding panels

Siding is subject to linear expansion in length under the influence of temperature changes. A three-meter panel, installed at an ambient temperature of +5 0, is extended by 12 mm in summer. These features of vinyl must be considered when cutting. The manufacturer indicates possible changes in parameters on the packaging. It will not be difficult to calculate the required size when making a cornice with your own hands.
So that the siding can freely expand and contract, the strip is measured 1.5 cm less than the size of the gable. Leave a gap of at least 1 mm between the screw head and the siding. You need to install the hardware in the middle of the hole that is used to fix the panel. Failure to comply with these requirements leads to deformation of the cladding of the house.

Installation of plastic panels

When arranging the roof and eaves with siding, for the first time it is better to start with a blank gable. At the level of the ceiling, you need to install a low tide. Fasten it with press washers to each profile of the crate and along the end to increase rigidity. If there is a window opening, you must first put slopes and ebb on it. All edges must be flared to prevent moisture from getting behind the frame of the batten. Install a J-profile around the opening.
Above the ebb, a starting bar is attached, the position of which must be strictly horizontal. When installing several starting strips, 10 mm is left between them.
The next step is to set the internal corners.

This completes the preparatory work for the installation of siding with your own hands. You can start installing vinyl panels on the gable of the house.
You can use a grinder to cut the siding, but in this case you have to raise the electrical wires to the level of the roof of the house. In this case, scissors are used for convenience. In order not to have to measure the angle of the roof for each panel, it is advisable to make a template. But keep in mind that the slope of each slope may be different, you need to make two templates, left and right.

When the vinyl panels are properly installed, a characteristic click should sound. The very last panel needs to be decorated with a finishing bar and decorated with a corner element. The roof overhangs are sheathed last.
All houses with sloping roofs are equipped with cornices. Usually the length of the cornice is from 40 cm to a meter. Protecting the roof and walls of the house from rain and snow is the main function of the eaves. For its sheathing, soffits are used, which have ventilation holes in their design, which contribute to the ventilation of the space under the roof. Decorating the eaves with siding begins with the installation of the frame. It must be assembled in two perpendicular planes, at right angles to each other. After sheathing the eaves with siding, you need to close the cut joints with a finishing profile and a J-bevel.
If you follow all the recommendations indicated by the siding manufacturer, do-it-yourself roof eaves sheathing will take a little time and effort.

You will be able to pay 30-50% less for electricity, depending on which electrical appliances you use.

How to sheathe the gable of the house with siding?

An integral element of a house with a pitched roof is the pediment. It performs not only the functions of enclosing structures, but also serves as a decoration of the house and part of its facade. Therefore, it is so important to properly trim the pediment so that it is warm in the attic or attic floor, and outside the pediment part is in harmony with the entire building and performs aesthetic functions. In our article, we will list the materials that are suitable for the exterior decoration of this part of the structure, and also briefly describe the nuances that you should know before sheathing the gable of the house with siding or doing it in case of using lining and corrugated board.

Features of the gable device

The part of the outer wall of the house, bounded from below by the ceiling of the building, and from above by the planes of the pitched roof, is called the pediment. At the same time, pediments will inevitably appear when arranging a broken, gable or shed roof, as well as a half-hip roof. In the latter case, this constructive part of the building will not have a triangular shape, but a trapezoidal one. When using a sloping roof of the house, the pediment will be polygonal, and in the case of mounting a vaulted roof, the shape of the pediment will be rounded.

Before deciding how to sheathe the pediment of the house with your own hands, it is important to figure out which technological group this design belongs to:

1. The cheapest option, suitable for doing it yourself, is a pediment built using frame technology. In this case, the insulation is laid between the racks of the frame, and the gable wall itself is sheathed along the frame. This method of arranging a gable is actively used in private construction as the simplest option for arranging a light roof.
2. You will have to sheathe a solid gable wall if the house is being built from gas blocks, brick, cylindering or timber. This method of arranging the pediment is more complex and requires the performer to have at least basic knowledge in the construction business. In this way, the pediments of buildings that are undergoing major repairs and reconstruction are sheathed. Although this method can be used to sheathe a house built of ordinary brick or cellular concrete, after which it will acquire a beautiful and respectable look.

Important: the pediment can be made from the same material as the walls of the house, or made from a different material. For example, in a brick house there may be a pediment built using frame technology, or in a stone house, rounded beams can be used to make the pediment.

The main functions of the pediment:

• Wind protection. Since the pediment is exposed to wind, it must be strong enough and airtight.
• This structural part of the building supports the pitched roof. Although the truss structure rests on the walls of the house and the Mauerlat, the pediment additionally supports the slopes. This is especially true for roofs covered with slate or natural tiles.
• If there is a residential attic floor under the roof, then the function of preserving heat in the room is assigned to the pediment. In this case, before sheathing the gable of the house, it is important to provide for high-quality wall insulation.
• To protect the walls of the house and the under-roof space from moisture, the pediment should be trimmed with moisture-resistant material, which will increase the tightness of the structure.
• The sheathing layer on the pediment also performs aesthetic functions. It depends on how you sew the pediment how beautiful the whole house will look.

Sheathing materials

It is up to you to decide how to decorate your house. If the work will be done by hand, then in addition to beauty and practicality, the material should be easily and quickly mounted. That is why the following materials are most often used for self-plating this part of the house:

Some craftsmen manage to sheathe the gable part of their house with moisture-resistant plywood, OSB or drywall, and then plaster and paint it with facade paints. But this option is not very durable and practical. You can also find gables made of opaque polycarbonate. However, this option can hardly boast of high heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Clapboard lining

If you want to choose a cheaper material for sheathing, then there is nothing better than lining. This product is suitable for do-it-yourself installation, has a pleasant color (although it can be painted in the desired shade), and also stands out for the beautiful texture of natural wood.

Sheathing the pediment of the house with a board (lining) is carried out on a wooden frame made of timber. Nails and screws are used as fasteners. When installing the lining, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Since wood is exposed to microorganisms, it needs additional protective treatment with antiseptic compounds.
2. To protect against burning, the lining and frame are treated with flame retardants.
3. Any protective composition needs to be re-applied after 1-2 years.
4. To protect the material from the negative effects of atmospheric moisture, the boards should be painted with a suitable paint and varnish composition.
5. The lining has a convenient tenon-groove fastening, which greatly simplifies and speeds up installation.
6. If the pediment is sheathed with an overlap board, you get a beautiful herringbone finish.

Important: without protective coatings, the clapboard finish can last a maximum of 5 years, after which the appearance of the material will deteriorate and it will begin to collapse. With protective treatment, the service life of the lining reaches 20 years, provided that the coating is regularly updated.

siding finish

Sheathing a pediment with vinyl siding with your own hands is no more difficult than clapboard. This material is distinguished by reasonable price and practicality. It is more durable than lining, and does not need regular updating of the protective coating. Such a sheathing is suitable for a frame-type pediment, for a house made of timber, logs, bricks, concrete, stone and cellular concrete. Siding is mounted on a frame made of timber or metal profiles.

You should know that in addition to the siding itself, to finish the gable, you will need additional elements, start and finish strips, connecting profiles, an inner and outer corner, a window strip and a J-profile. In addition, it is worth remembering that vinyl siding is not mounted directly on the wall. Between it and the enclosing structure, whether it be a wall or a heater between the racks of the frame, there must be a ventilation gap that will not allow condensate to collect under the finish.

Some of the benefits of siding include:

• Impressive service life. This finish can last up to 50 years.
• Acceptable price. The most acceptable cost for vinyl siding, metal and asbestos-cement options will be a little more expensive.
• Large selection of colors, textures and design options. Thanks to this, you can easily choose the finishes for the overall style and color of the house.
• High moisture resistance. The material is not afraid of precipitation. It can even be washed if needed.
• Finishing is not subject to damage by microorganisms and insects.
• This material is easy to maintain, since it does not need any impregnation, painting. To refresh the facade, it is enough to wash it with water from a hose.

Attention: since vinyl panels are subject to thermal expansion, it is very important to properly install the product. To do this, it is necessary to leave gaps for the deformation expansion of the material and not fasten the self-tapping screws too tightly.

Sheathing with corrugated board

No less cheaply and quickly can sheathe the gable of the house with corrugated board. This product is made of thin galvanized steel with a polymer coating. To increase the strength, profile ridges are made on the sheet, which act as stiffeners. Wall corrugated board (beech marking “C”) is suitable for sheathing the pediment, which has the most reasonable price.

With this material, it is possible to veneer the gable part of the house made of brick, cellular concrete, logs or timber. It is attached to a special frame using self-tapping screws with sealing gaskets.

Among the advantages of this material it is worth listing the following:

• Significant dimensions of one sheet and low weight significantly speed up and simplify the installation process.
• The coating is not afraid of moisture, resistant to corrosion, damage by microorganisms, fading. The material is resistant to mechanical stress and temperature extremes.
• At a price, corrugated board will cost less than siding.
• On sale you can find products with different profile configurations and different colors of the polymer coating, so you can easily choose the option that suits your home.
• During installation, a minimum of scraps is obtained, which is an additional savings point.
• Installation of corrugated board is so simple that even a beginner can cope with this task.

Tip: for finishing the walls of the house and its gable part, it is better to use corrugated board with a sheet thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Thinner products are easier to bend and deform during installation.

Since the profiled sheet itself has low sound insulation, during its installation it is better to lay heat-insulating material between the racks of the frame, which will additionally insulate the under-roof space and protect it from the rumble that occurs due to the impact of drops during rain. A vapor barrier membrane must be attached over the heat-insulating material, which protects against moisture and condensate.

How is the pediment trimmed with siding

Unlike working with facades, pediment siding does not look so simple. The geometry of the structure is taken into account and additional special equipment is required.

Correct calculation of the amount of materials

To sheathe the gable with siding, the amount of materials is calculated. The type of structures is taken into account, and various factors are taken into account:

1. Distance to base.
2. The area of ​​the element.
3. At Goal tilt.
4. Roof height.

For triangular gables

To calculate materials for a triangular pediment, first of all, the base is measured. The height of the structure is also taken into account. The dimensions are multiplied and the area is divided by the area of ​​one panel. For the convenience of calculations, all values ​​are reduced to one unit of measurement - square meters.

For clarity, it is necessary to consider a specific example. The building may have a gable base of 3.45 meters and a height of 3.8 meters. When calculating the area, the value is 0.732 square meters. For the above area, by multiplying the values ​​\u200b\u200bthe sum of 6.55 square meters is obtained.

Next, the number of required panels is directly calculated. To do this, the previously obtained value (6.55 square meters) is divided by the area of ​​​​one panel - 0.732 square meters. The builder receives a value of 8.948 square meters, this figure can be rounded up to 89.5. In this way, a figure is obtained that corresponds to the number of siding panels in the original data.

For trapezoidal gables

In order to calculate the material, when there are trapezoidal gables, a special formula is provided that takes into account the length of the top line and the height of the structure. It is necessary to mark the break point of the roof and calculate the distance from the edge. For example, you can take as a basis a house with a gable base length of 6 meters, a top line length of 3 meters, and a height of 1.8 meters.

To calculate, the numbers 6 and 3 are adjusted, divided in half and multiplied by the height. As a result, 8.1 square meters matter. Further, this value must be divided by the area of ​​​​one panel. For example, it is 0.732 square meters, resulting in a value of 11.06. After rounding the data, it turns out that more than 110 panels will be required to finish the siding in this case.

For pediments of complex architectural form

There are houses with various ledges, distortions. Windows, various openings can be provided in the design. In such a situation, professional builders offer to divide the structure into separate elements, and calculate the area for different sections.

The preparatory work is related to determining the area of ​​​​the window openings directly, and this will require only two parameters - their length and height.

If the design provides for several windows, the obtained indicators are added up. Next, you have to do some drawing and apply the existing multifaceted shape to a piece of paper. For simplicity, it is divided into simple figures. As in the case of windows, the area of ​​individual elements is determined and then summed up.

At the end of the work, do not forget to take away the area of ​​​​window openings. Using the example of previous calculations, the user will be able to determine the exact number of required panels.

For sheathing eaves and gable overhangs

The overhang is the part of the roof that protrudes beyond the wall, and the cornice is its horizontal part. Therefore, the front line is a vertical element. Everything is subject to sheathing with spotlights, and the ends are not left without attention, strips of various shapes are used (droppers are suitable). The calculation of materials begins with measurements of the length of the cornice, width and height.

To facilitate operations, all values ​​are converted to running meters.

When the total area is found, everything is much simpler. By a similar principle, the quadrature of the gable overhangs is found. According to the previous example, it is important to know the area of ​​​​one soffit and perform a division operation.

Rules and features of connections of additional elements

For ease of installation of panels, it is necessary to take into account the rules for connecting additional elements. Missing panels can sometimes be ordered from a store, many manufacturers work according to drawings, taking into account the size of the panels, their shape. When considering additional elements, the main part is a perforated bar, some call it a nail part.

It is located only on one side of the panel and is intended for fixing fittings. During installation, the gap between the self-tapping screw and the perforated bar is taken into account. To make the connection reliable, locks are used that look like protrusions. Manufacturers on the market offer planks of interesting shapes, you can always try something new for finishing.

When installing elements, specialists are guided by the correct installation by a characteristic click.

If we consider window techniques, completely different additional elements are used there. It is important to take into account the length of the protrusions, while the bar is inserted into the recess. When working with door techniques, there is no need to achieve a tight docking of the panels. The fixation of the element is carried out on self-tapping screws, which are attached to the nail strip.

If the panel fits snugly against the crate, such a design cannot be called stable. It is recommended to leave a small gap, namely, one millimeter. This will allow the panel to move freely in case of mechanical impact.

Thus, cases of rapid deformation of the elements are excluded. When installing, you should always be prepared to trim the nail strip in order to control the width of the gap. Separate fasteners are used for different types of siding. Considering the vinyl metal type, galvanized fasteners are suitable.

Tools

When the material is prepared, it's time to take the tool:

1. Drill and screwdriver.
2. Angle grinder or electric jigsaw.
3. Building level, tape measure and ruler.
4. Square to determine the correct installation of the panel.
5. Hammer and mallet.
6. Knife for metal.

Sheathing and insulation

Finishing the pediment is impossible without installing the frame. There are various types of crates, it is important to understand the techniques of framing. When it comes to insulation, different materials are available and you have to act depending on the conditions.

Metal crate

Galvanized profiles are available on the market and it is recommended to look for products with stiffeners. In order to fix the structure, you can not do without brackets, suspensions are used. In this case, there is no clear step-by-step instruction for execution; it is recommended to fasten the crate simultaneously on the left and right sides.

In order to orient the structure horizontally, a beacon is installed. The rope that is stretched between the profiles is best suited.

The next step is the installation of brackets, everything necessary for insulation is prepared in advance. The crate is fixed after installing the vapor barrier and the heat-insulating layer. The situation becomes more complicated if there are window frames, the architect will have to make markings around the perimeter. At the end of the work, the accuracy of fastening the frame is evaluated using the building level.

Wooden crate

This crate is chosen because of the low price. You can make it yourself and do not need to spend money in the store. The main condition is the selection of an even beam. Wood must be dry, deformations are not allowed. Separately, you will have to take care of impregnation with an anti-corrosion solution.

For the integrity of the structure, the beam is selected along the length of the pediment. Fastening a wooden crate is much easier without insulation. Work begins with making holes in the roof, which will later be used to fix the structure. To keep one level, wedges are installed.

In order to install thermal insulation or a hydro-barrier, brackets are fixed, operations are carried out according to marking. It is recommended to start the installation of the structure from the extreme bars, and then a cord is pulled between them. If there is a window attic opening on the pediment, the wooden frame is installed around the perimeter.

Sheathing the gable with siding

In order for siding gables to look decent even after a while, it is necessary to take into account the properties of the panels. They change their shape with temperature. As an example, you can take a workpiece 3 meters long. If it is mounted in conditions where the ambient temperature is + 45 degrees, in summer the panel will lengthen by 10 mm.

Such features of vinyl make you carefully approach the cutting process. The manufacturer indicates the exact deformation parameters on the product. To avoid the destruction of the base, the workpiece is selected less than the length of the pediment by 1.5 cm.

Metis is attached in the middle of the hole. Starting installation work, actions are carried out from a deaf gable. First of all, an ebb is installed, it should be on a par with the ceiling. To fix it, appropriate press washers are selected. Considering the case with a window opening, it is important to take care of the facing of slopes and ebbs.

The main problem is the need to close the edges, these are weak points, and water can get there. The easiest way is to flare the edges and install the profile. When the tide is in place, the starting bar is fixed, its level is checked horizontally. If there is a need to fix several elements, a gap of 10 mm is provided.

At the next stage, the siding is fastened, but it must be cut in advance. An angle grinder is suitable for this, however, the problem lies in the inconvenience of the location of the electrical wire. As an alternative, many are looking at metal shears. It takes a novice builder a lot of time to work with each panel, but the process can be sped up if a template is used.

Simplifying the procedure for mounting panels, it is necessary to take into account the slope of the slope. When working with plastic blanks, a click is sure to be heard when fastening. The most extreme workpiece requires careful design, a finishing bar is used. There are various options for decorating.

Finishing work, overhangs are checked, it may be necessary to install cornices. When selecting an element, blanks 40 centimeters long are used. The quality of roof protection depends on the choice of eaves. As you know, it can be severely damaged during prolonged rains and snows.

Soffits are suitable as sheathing, the presence of ventilation holes is taken into account, so the roof breathes, there is oxygen access. At the end of the work, cut joints remain, and finishing profiles are used to hide them.

How to sheathe the gable with siding? Diagrams and videos

The pediment of the building belongs to multifunctional structures, it provides protection of the attic or attic from wind, precipitation or heat loss and gives the building a complete look. When choosing a material for its sheathing, preference is given to durable and rigid panels with minimal water absorption and good UV resistance, ideally not requiring additional decorative finishing. Siding fully complies with these requirements, providing good tightness and aesthetics.

Sheathing technology: rules and step by step instructions

When cladding non-residential attic structures with a cold roof and good evenness of the outer walls, there is no need for a frame, the siding is simply fixed between the guide profile. When choosing this option, the skin is easy to do by yourself, the costs will be minimal. The disadvantages include the impossibility of placing an insulating layer and the risk of deformation as the base materials wear out.

When choosing a frame method, the siding is mounted to a crate made of wooden slats or metal, installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Almost all manufacturers recommend the second option and indicate that their panels are not designed to be attached to beams that collapse under the influence of moisture. When sheathing over a metal frame, there are no problems, the specified warranty periods (30-50 years) become real. The supporting profile is fixed on stainless U-shaped suspensions, the design acquires maximum reliability.

The main advantage is the possibility of placing thermal insulation between the beams; mineral wool slabs or sprayed varieties have characteristics suitable for this area. Styrofoam is used only in case of a limited budget, both because of its combustibility, and because of its low resistance to UV and high temperatures (a constantly lit pediment often heats up, the space under its lining is doubly). Fibrous and open-cell types of insulation need additional protection from precipitation; for this purpose, the insulating layer is covered with appropriate films.

The walkthrough includes the following steps:

• Drawing up a diagram, calculation of building materials, preparation of surfaces.
• Installation of the frame and additional fasteners.
• Placement of insulation, closing it with waterproofing films.
• Template preparation, cutting.
• Siding fastening: from starting strips to the finishing section.
• Closing joints with a plastic corner, sheathing ebbs, window openings.
• Installation of fixtures (if any).

Even before the start, supporting structures are selected and placed - scaffolding or reliable stepladders. At the preparatory stage, the walls are cleaned of debris and dust and, if necessary, lightly leveled with plaster. When working with wood, surfaces must be treated with flame retardants and antiseptics and dried well. All protruding and interfering elements are removed, large gaps are filled with mortar or moisture-resistant mounting foam.

The layout of the panels and the order of their installation depends on the direction of the profile. Horizontal cladding is easier to do on your own, difficulties arise only when finishing window openings.

Vertical laying is considered more attractive, fastening in this case is carried out from the starting bar installed in the center of the pediment. The original view has a profile diverging in different directions in the form of rays, but such projects are difficult to complete in the absence of experience. To eliminate errors during cutting, a life-size sketch is created, the siding is cut by applying cardboard templates to the walls.

At the stage of lathing, a straight metal profile or wooden bars with a cross section of at least 25 mm is attached to the base material. Their orientation depends on the method of finishing: horizontal or vertical. For support and fixation, galvanized hangers are used, placed in increments of no more than 50-60 cm. Additional strips are installed around future windows along the entire perimeter of the openings or in the areas where the luminaires are mounted. All wooden elements must be well dried and protected from fungus and insects. At the end, mineral wool slabs are fixed: tightly, without gaps and cracks, if necessary (in the case of an especially thick or two layers of insulation) tacked with dowels with dish-shaped caps, with a film covering with an overlap at the joint areas of at least 5 cm.

It is unacceptable to make one frame, without additional support along the edges, correctly carried out cladding of the gable implies the use of corners or a J-profile on the connection line with the roof and as starting rails. With a horizontal arrangement of the siding, the lower bar is attached to the crate with galvanized self-tapping screws. At this stage, tight screwing is avoided, the hat is placed strictly in the center of a special hole, a gap of 1-2 mm remains between it and the material. Each subsequent panel is first put on a locking connection (up to a click) and only then screwed with self-tapping screws. The recommended fastener spacing is 30-40 cm. The process ends with a finishing strip.

When sheathing with siding with a vertical arrangement, installation is carried out from the center, approaching a pre-fixed H-profile. Panels are recommended to be installed simultaneously in both directions, their level is checked every three elements, deviations are unacceptable. Any adjustments are made immediately (this also applies to horizontal finishing). The role of the guides in the lower part during vertical laying is performed by the J-profile or molding, the areas of contact with the roof are closed in any case. On each edge and on top leave a gap of 12 mm and above.

The main difficulties are associated with the design of window openings and ends. The purchase of a special near-window profile helps to avoid problems, but due to the high cost, it is not always available. Much depends on the level of location of the outer glass, if it coincides with the walls for decoration, it is advisable to use standard elements for framing the openings made of plastic, when pressed into the lining, it is better to make slopes and close them with a corner. The window profile is considered universal, it is simply cut and bent in the right places.

Regardless of the direction of the panels, the formation of unnecessary joints should be avoided. In addition to the deterioration of aesthetics, they are a risk area, dust accumulates in these areas and moisture seeps inside. The use of an H-profile to connect individual segments is a prerequisite for technology, but they are just as noticeable as open edges. Ideally, this requirement is taken into account even at the stage of drawing up the layout of the planks (when using metal siding 6 mm long, you can draw up a plan with a minimum of joints), but this execution is expensive, a lot of material goes to waste.

Possible mistakes when doing the work yourself

Violations include:

• The absence of technological gaps in the areas of entry into the corner and finish profile. Properly anchored siding should have room to accommodate thermal expansion. For the same reason, it is forbidden to screw in the screws to the stop.
• Driving nails into the front.
• Stretching the panels at the moment of fixation.
• The use of low-quality (non-galvanized) fasteners and nails. When saving on hardware, after a while rusty spots appear in these areas.
• Absence of corner strips in the areas of contact with the roof.

Approximate prices for the services of sheathing the gable space and roof eaves are shown in the table:

When ordering a turnkey finish, the minimum price of services is 400 rubles / m 2 (when combined with insulation - from 700). Rates are influenced by:

• The material and condition of the walls on the gable section.
• Project complexity: shape, number of window openings, layout of the siding profile.
• The type of cladding, when working with galvanized metal varieties, the cost increases by 50 rubles / m 2, both because of the high cost of the panels, and because of the difficulties in cutting them.
• The need for insulation, the thickness of this layer.
• Remoteness of the object.
• The height of the structure, the need for a scaffolding system.
• The professionalism of the people.

When choosing an insulated option, the cost of cladding a house at least doubles, but in the case of facing a pediment of a residential attic or attic, such costs are considered to be recouped. It should be remembered that the proportion of heat loss through the roof reaches 25% of the total value, the insulation of this area is almost always justified. Saving on building materials is unacceptable (poor-quality siding quickly burns out, the presence of a weak crate leads to distortion), the only option to reduce costs is to do the work on your own.

- the outer skin of the house, which performs several important functions at once.

First of all, this is a decorative design of the building, giving it a neat, elegant appearance.

In addition, siding allows wall materials to "breathe" - i.e. contributes to the removal of steam from the thickness of the wall cake, while maintaining the working properties of the structure for many years.

The relative cheapness of the material, the possibility of self-installation are additional, but no less important properties that make the skin popular and in demand among consumers.

A pediment is a triangular (most often) section of a wall, bounded by the slopes of the roof and, from the side of the base, by a cornice. Depending on the architectural solution, the pediment can be a continuation of the wall, or a separate element, but in any case, it serves as the basis for the roof slopes, whatever shape it may be.

There are many types of pediments:

• Triangular.
• Trapezoidal.
• Torn.
• Luchkovy.
• Stepped.
• Circular.
• Unraveled.

All types of gables perform the same function - the continuation of the wall until it contacts the roof slopes, or the function of the end wall of the attic. For private housing construction, the most characteristic is a triangular shape, or a more complex pentagon shape, which is obtained from houses with a sloping roof.

How to calculate the amount of siding for a gable

To calculate the required amount of siding, you must first calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe gable. Depending on its shape, the usual geometric formulas are used to determine the areas of simple figures - an isosceles triangle, a trapezoid.

To determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pediment with a sloping roof, you can conditionally divide it into two figures - a trapezoid (lower part) and an isosceles triangle (upper part), calculate their area and add up the results.

Remembering the school geometry course, the area of ​​a triangle is half the product of the base and the height, and for a trapezoid, the sum of the bases multiplied by the height and divided in half.

It should be borne in mind that the calculated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe gable when buying siding should be increased by 10-15%, since the sheathing will have to be cut at an angle, and the trimmings will go to waste, so a margin of space will be needed.

In addition, errors in measurement, cutting or installation are always possible, the presence of additional material will help to compensate for them.

Additional elements

that will be needed for sheathing the pediment is:

• Starting bar (if the pediment is structurally separated from the plane of the wall).
• Finish plank.
• H-profile.
• J profile.
• Soffit, L-bar.
• Molding, decorative overlay, etc.
• Window decorations (if any).

You should use additional elements only from the same manufacturer as the main siding panels. In addition, metal elements cannot be used together with vinyl elements - due to the different coefficient of thermal expansion, the tightness of the canvas will be compromised.

A different type of siding can be used to finish the gable, different from what is on the walls.. Sometimes such a solution very successfully decorates the appearance of the house, especially if horizontal siding is used for wall decoration, and vertical siding for the pediment.

Sequence of work

All works have the following sequence:

• Lathing installation.
• Installation of insulation (if necessary), steam and waterproofing.
• Installation of starting rails, H-profiles, corner profiles, design of window openings.
• Installation of the main siding panels.
• Filing of spotlights and L-slats.

Depending on the complexity of the architecture of the house, some additional operations may be needed, but the main list of works is just that.

Installation of the crate on the pediment

The general principle of installation is the same as the rules for installation on walls. If there is a need for external insulation, then a primary crate is installed with the direction of the slats, the same as the location of the siding panels.

The plane of the slats is carefully aligned, for which it is convenient to use a stretched cord between the extreme slats installed in the first place. The height above the wall surface should not be less than the thickness of the insulation. The step of the slats corresponds to the width of the insulation (usually 60 cm).

After installing the insulating material and vapor-hydroprotection, the installation of the counter-lattice is carried out. It will play the role of a carrier system for the siding panels and, at the same time, provide a ventilation gap between the cladding and wall materials.

The spacing of the slats is most often done about 40 cm for greater strength of the skin fastening.

The material for the crate was traditionally wood - even straight bars of the desired thickness were used. This option is not the most successful, since the tree is subject to warping, swelling and other changes in the structure, which negatively affects the condition of the skin as a whole.

Recently, metal guides for gypsum boards have become the main material for the lathing, they are devoid of all the shortcomings of wooden bars, allow precise adjustment of the plane, and are not subject to corrosion due to the galvanized layer.

Given the minimal difference in price, the choice of metal strips is quite justified and rational.

Installation of internal and external corner profiles

Corner profiles are installed along the sides of window openings (external corners), along the lines of the roof slopes (internal corners). Of the task is to provide interfaces between the planes of the pediment and soffits or the pediment and slopes of window openings.

The upper and lower edges of the corner strips located along the inclined lines of the slopes must be cut at the desired angle. For longitudinal joining, the profile is cut in such a way that an overlap of 25 mm is obtained, and the top bar should be above the bottom one.

This prevents dripping water from getting under the skin.. At the same time, J-planks are installed on the outer edges of the gable overhangs. They are intended to secure the outer edge of the soffit.

NOTE!

When installing all siding elements, it is imperative to take into account the thermal expansion of the material, for which the longitudinal connection of auxiliary elements (starting strips, J-levels, etc.) is not done closely, but with a gap in winter - 12 mm, in summer - 6 mm . For the same purpose, the self-tapping screws are not tightened to the stop, allowing the part to move freely within the mounting grooves.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

Produced in the usual way:

The lower (first) row of panels is snapped into the lock of the starting bar, simultaneously inserted into the grooves of the corner and H-profiles on the sides. The upper part of the panel (nail strip) is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws.

Similarly, all subsequent panels are installed to the very top. The main task is to accurately maintain the angle when trimming panels and, at the same time, maintain thermal gaps for free movement in the corner and H-planks during expansion.

If the size of the gaps is insufficient, then the siding fabric will begin to bend outward, which is fraught with the destruction of the panels.

CAREFULLY!

Work on installing siding on the gable is carried out at a height, especially if the house has two floors (or more). It is necessary to ensure safe and convenient work in advance, to exclude the possibility of falling tools, materials and workers themselves from the scaffolding.

Soffit installation

The installation of spotlights is considered the final stage of gable sheathing, although it is quite possible to first arrange the gable overhang, and only after that proceed with the installation of ordinary panels on a vertical plane.

First of all, it is necessary to provide the possibility of fastening elements, which depends on the type of roof overhang.

There are:

• closed overhang. It is sheathed from below with boards, the installation of profile strips on such a basis does not cause problems.
• open overhang. In this case, there is a continuation of the roofing material, which does not have any sheathing from below. To install the extensions and the spotlights themselves, it will be necessary to lengthen the rafter legs and attach support bars to them. The task is quite difficult due to the inconvenient location of the work site - at a height, work is done from below. This circumstance sometimes forces us to abandon the installation of spotlights.

Soffits are mounted in grooves of parallel internal corners and J-planks along the edges of the overhangs. The installation rules remain the same - do not tighten the screws to the stop, leave temperature gaps.

To install soffits, one edge is inserted into the profile groove, and the receiving element is slightly bent in order to allow the soffit to be inserted into the groove. It is not recommended to apply too much force, which can irreversibly deform the receiving element.

To design the corner turns of the spotlights, either an H-profile or two J-profiles are used, tightly installed with rear platforms to each other.

The junction of two strips can be made at 45°, or one strip continues to the end of the overhang, and the second adjoins it end-to-end through the H-bar. The second option is somewhat simpler, which is very important given the complexity and inconvenience of working at height..

The final stage is the installation of L-planks, which form the end section of the cornices.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how to finish the gable with siding:

Conclusion

Sheathing the gable with siding is difficult due to the inconvenient location of the work site and the need to trim the panels at an angle, which is fraught with possible errors. Otherwise, the operation does not cause any particular problems and is quite successfully performed independently. High-quality finishing of the pediment with siding makes the house solid, attractive in appearance, creates completeness, harmoniously combines all the elements of the building structure.

In contact with

Any owner of a private house sooner or later begins to think about the need for external decoration of the pediment. As practice shows, siding is best suited for this. It is quite easy to install, so even a layman can handle it, guarantees the aesthetic appearance of the house, and also provides additional protection against moisture. In this article, we will talk about how to fix the siding to the front of the house.

What you need to know about frontons?

Before proceeding with the choice of material for cladding the pediment, you need to understand what functions this element of the facade performs and why it is built? The pediment is the part of the house located between the slopes of the roof. Depending on the purpose of the under-roof space, the methods of building gables differ. So, if it is non-residential, then the height of the pediment can reach no more than 1 m. If you plan to make an attic, then its height will vary from 2 m and above. You also need to choose a finishing method from the purpose of the attic - whether it will be a separate room or a continuation of the walls. In the first case, laying heat and waterproofing is necessary.

fronton requirements:

1. Protection of the under-roof space from wind, precipitation and cold.
2. Ensuring the rigidity and strength of the roof.
3. Aesthetics.

Based on these requirements, many choose siding for finishing the pediment, since it is resistant to precipitation, does not fade in direct sunlight and provides an attractive appearance of the building.

To sew up the gable with siding, there is no need to carry out large-scale preparatory work. For this purpose, you can use both ordinary vinyl siding and basement, characterized by increased strength. A large selection of colors and textures allows you to realize any design idea and make the facade beautiful and original. You can install siding on absolutely any surface: brick, concrete, wood, stone. This is one of the most inexpensive, quick and easy ways to decorate the exterior walls of a house.

Preparatory moments

Before installing the siding on the gable, the latter must be cleaned of the old top coat, remove dirt and dust. If the pediment is made of wood, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic and a deep penetration hydrophobic primer. The surface must be properly dried and leveled as far as possible. The allowable difference in height can be no more than 10 mm. Otherwise, the siding will quickly deform.

Mounting on a crate

If leveling the surface is too expensive or takes a lot of time, the siding is mounted on the crate. For example, in buildings of the old type, the outer surfaces of the walls are not even, therefore, in this case, the material should be attached only to the frame. This method has its advantages - the crate not only guarantees correct and high-quality installation, but also allows for additional wall insulation. Therefore, even if you are the happy owner of a house with perfectly even walls, but you plan to make a residential attic, it is better to make a frame and lay insulation under it.

The crate can be made of wood or metal. A metal frame is preferable for obvious reasons. It is not subject to rotting, more durable and durable. However, its cost can confuse economical owners, so many people prefer to build a wooden crate from unnecessary lumber or cheap softwood. But if opportunities allow, it is better to mount the frame from galvanized aluminum profiles. By the way, the same rack profiles are used to work with drywall. Products are much lighter than wood, so they do not carry a significant load on the foundation or walls of the house.

To fix the guide profiles to the gable, use only galvanized hangers. Install racks in 50-60 cm increments. Since the metal frame is stronger than wood, the pitch can be increased.

After installing the frame for insulating the attic or attic, it is necessary to lay waterproofing and insulation. Ideally, you must first cover the surface of the wall with a vapor barrier film, then with insulation, and then close everything with waterproofing. To insulate the pediment, the most common and cheap materials are suitable, for example, mineral wool or polystyrene foam boards. As a waterproofing, you can use a building dense film with a thickness of 200 microns.

Calculation of materials and fittings

Before you go to the store for siding, you need to calculate how much it will take for the gable. In addition to the material itself, you will need mounting hardware, which is best purchased from the same manufacturer. For the most accurate calculation, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the building in a convenient scale.

What accessories will be required to install the siding on the gable:

• mounting strips;
• J-profiles;
• connecting H-profiles (it is not recommended to overlap them so that litter and water do not penetrate into the joints);
• window profiles (if there are windows in the gable);
• finish profiles.

You can attach the siding from the outside only with galvanized fasteners. Any others will quickly begin to rust and reduce all your efforts to zero.

Siding installation

As we have already said, despite the evenness of the walls, it is better to mount the siding on the crate. If the panels are installed horizontally, the batten elements must be fixed vertically, and vice versa. By the way, vertically located siding looks more familiar and visually makes the house taller. The installation step of the lathing slats is 30-40 cm.

Installation of starting J-profiles

If this is your first time facing a gable with siding, pay special attention to the installation of starting profiles. The subsequent work and the final result depend on the correctness of their installation. Take as much time as you need for this step.

Progress:

When mounting the starting profiles, constantly check their horizontalness with a building level! If the horizontal is broken, the siding will warp, and it will be very difficult to fix it.

External corner profiles

Before attaching the corner profiles, install or mark out the soffits so you can clearly see where their edges will run.

Progress:

Panel installation

So, when all the preparatory mounting elements are fixed, you can actually proceed to sheathing the gable with siding with your own hands. You need to put the first panel as carefully as the starting profiles, since the final result depends on it. It is best to start work from the most inconspicuous part of the pediment in order to practice and correct possible shortcomings in time.

How to sheathe a gable with siding:

Sheathing the gable with siding may seem like a difficult task, but in reality everything turns out to be not so difficult. If you want to do everything with high quality, you can practice installation in inconspicuous areas of the house or on some building (barn or garage).

How to sheathe a gable with siding in video format:

Siding gables: photo

gid-str.ru

Siding - fronton trim

• metal siding
• Vinyl siding
• Mounting

Roofing is an integral part of the appearance of your building. When choosing a sheathing for a gable or cornice of your roof, you need to know all the positive and negative properties of this material. The main thing is that the finish that you have given your preference to is not only very beautiful, but also practical enough and able to protect your building for as long as possible.

When choosing a material for finishing, it is necessary to pay attention not only to aesthetics, but also not to its performance.

A roof with a pediment, which is sheathed with wood, only initially has a neat appearance, but after a while it loses it. Wood paneling cannot withstand weather and fire well, and it also creates a huge appetite for insects. In addition to all this, gables sheathed with wooden clapboard need annual care, which leads to some costs and time.

Virtually all of the aforementioned negative points are absent from vinyl and metal siding. By the way, both of these materials meet all environmental standards and they can sheathe not only the roof, but the whole house. Houses sheathed with siding breathe, as its installation provides for a system for draining condensate and roof ventilation, but each type of siding has its own nuances.

metal siding

Siding is able to retain its natural color up to 50 years.

The undeniable advantage of metal siding is its durability and excellent resistance to fire. The color scheme of this type of siding is diverse - it has more than 100 colors of the palette. Of course, a pediment sheathed in too bright a color siding evokes the feeling of an artificial material, but, as they say, there is no comrade for the taste and color. Metal siding is a very strong material, as it consists of galvanized steel, a passivated layer and a primer layer, and this is absolutely uninteresting for insects. Finishing the building with this material throughout the entire period of operation (from 50 years) is able to retain its color due to its high resistance to fading in the sun.

Finishing this type of material also has its drawbacks. With a sufficiently strong impact, the surface is deformed and dents remain on it. Metal siding, in addition to periodic washing, needs additional care, for example, applying a special protective coating to prevent corrosion. Yes, and sheathing a building with metal siding will be much more expensive than using vinyl or wood siding for this.

A significant disadvantage is also the fact that the metal is much more than other types of finishing materials, tend to pass heat. Because of this, houses covered with this siding need extra insulation to keep out excessive heat in summer or cold in winter. It must be remembered that the sheets of metal siding are quite heavy and for their use a certain supply of load-bearing structures of the house is required, therefore, such cladding may not be suitable for a particular building.

Vinyl siding

All the negative aspects of the metal and wooden material for house cladding were taken into account when developing an inexpensive, but very practical, attractive and modern material made of polyvinyl chloride - vinyl siding. The decoration of the pediment with this material is very beautiful, durable, fire resistant and does not corrode.

The manufacturing technology provides for the presence of two layers. The top layer protects the aesthetic properties of vinyl siding, color and climate resistance. The bottom layer determines the mounting and structural properties of the panels.

Caring for a gable or eaves cladding made with vinyl siding is very simple: just a watering hose and detergent.

Roofed houses, whose gables are sheathed with this facing material, always have a very attractive appearance, since vinyl siding panels do not fade and do not deform with sudden changes in temperature. The sheathing made of such material is very flexible, when struck, it is very quickly restored to its previous state, while it does not form any chips, dents, or cracks. The color scheme is mostly soft pastel, which is another plus, as a gable covered with vinyl siding will give the roof a more natural look than metal siding.

I would like to note that vinyl siding has another important positive point - easy installation. Installation is carried out using a hand tool, which, as a rule, any owner has, which allows you to sheathe the francon yourself. Before proceeding with the facing of the pediment, it is necessary to calculate and purchase all the necessary material.

Siding has a huge range of colors, so choosing the shade of interest will be quite simple.

In order to perform siding sheathing, you will need:

• siding panels;
• crate;
• nails, screws;
• square;
• screwdriver;
• finish and start bar;
• roulette;
• wooden beam (section 50 × 100 mm);
• board (thickness 50 mm);
• stationery knife.

Mounting

Cutting siding does not cause any difficulties, so getting the details of the required shape will be quite simple.

Scaffolding is made from a bar with a section of 50 × 100 mm. Scaffolding flooring is made of boards (50 mm), edged boards (25 × 100 mm) are suitable for braces. If the roof gable has ebbs, you can rigidly connect the lower part of the scaffolding to the wall. With a high roof ridge, it is necessary to make a second tier of scaffolding.

Sheathing the pediment can be done in three ways. The first is to make an aluminum frame, and then fix the siding panels on it. However, installation in this way is more expensive and not everyone can afford it. The second is that the panels can be mounted directly on the wooden gable of the roof. The third - is the most optimal solution, the siding is mounted on a wooden crate. Let's dwell on it in more detail.

We vertically fix a solid wooden beam along the entire gable with a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. So that the outer surfaces of the bars of the crate are in the same plane. Wooden bars can be nailed to the gable, they are cheaper than self-tapping screws. But we attach the siding panel to the crate only with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver. It is worth remembering that they need to be slightly twisted to the end in order to allow the panels to maneuver a little at high temperatures.

Sheathing the gable with siding must begin after installing the starting bar. Using a level, it must be installed strictly horizontally and secured to each rack. We combine the profile spike with the groove of the starting bar. A characteristic click will be the result of the correct connection, which is called a lock.

At an angle that repeats the slope of the roof, we cut off the ends of the panels. When sheathing the gable of the roof, it is necessary to leave a gap between the crate and the end of the panel (1 cm). It serves as a compensation for the thermal expansion of the panels, and also prevents the deformation of the siding during the shrinkage of the structure.

The final moment is the installation of the finishing strip, which is carried out before laying the last row of panels.

That's all, the pediment is sheathed, you can enjoy the beautifully executed roof.

kryshikrovli.ru

How to finish the gable of the house with siding

Siding is currently one of the most popular materials for cladding the exterior surfaces of private homes. Finishing the pediment with do-it-yourself siding and the roof is a rather difficult task, but doable for any owner. In order to competently and efficiently carry out such facing work, it is necessary to understand the features of this task.

Today, it is customary to pay special attention to the cladding of the pediment and the roof of the house, since only the finishing of all the external surfaces of a private house can provide an overall attractive appearance for the entire building. If you install siding only on the facade of the building, the protection of its structures and the general appearance will not be complete.

Finishing the pediment is often carried out using modern siding, as this material has an affordable cost and high-quality technical characteristics, and also provides a spectacular appearance to the object.

Types of siding

According to the materials used in the production process, all siding on the market is divided into four main types: cement, vinyl, steel and wood.

Each of these types can be used to trim the gable.

Vinyl siding

Vinyl finishing materials are the most popular with owners who require facing the gable or roof of the house. Vinyl siding can be installed both vertically and horizontally.

The vertical installation option is usually used for cladding non-residential premises - commercial and industrial facilities, and horizontal installation is better suited for private houses.

Pros and Cons of Vinyl Finishing

Any finishing material has both positive and negative qualities.

The table below shows the main pros and cons of vinyl siding designed for gable finishing.

It is necessary to buy siding for a house only taking into account all the listed disadvantages of this facing material. At the same time, professional installers are well aware that a properly lined gable with vinyl trim can serve a person for decades without any problems.

Therefore, installation, taking into account all the requirements of the manufacturer and safety instructions, allows you not to feel any shortcomings in the operation of this coating.

What does siding include?

Sheathing the gable with siding on your own is a doable task, but before starting installation, the owners will need to figure out what components such a coating consists of.

Siding faceplates can be made in a variety of shapes and come in a variety of colors and shades. Gable siding is very popular with homeowners, imitating the surface of natural facing materials, for example, the surface of stone, wood or brickwork.

Among the most popular representatives of the market, one can single out such sheathing for the pediment, such as: shipboard, lining, shingles, scales, herringbone, etc.

To securely trim the pediment with siding, it is necessary to use reliable fastening systems. Facing installation involves the use of additional panels of various shapes and purposes; among the products on the market, one can single out: finishing profile, starting profile, corner profile, window trims, H-shaped profiles and others. To make the pediment more attractive, various decorative elements can also be used during installation.

When purchasing materials for the roof, it should be remembered that various manufacturers produce fasteners of different shapes for their products, and therefore, it is best to take all the components of the same brand necessary for covering the pediment.

Mounting principles

In order to properly sheathe a gable or install roof siding, the owner should familiarize himself with the basic rules and features of such work. The first thing to consider before installation is the thermal expansion of the selected finishing material.

For standard gable and roof panels, about three meters long, which were installed at an ambient temperature of +5 degrees Celsius, in hot weather conditions can be extended by 10 mm or more.

It is precisely because of this feature that the panels for finishing the pediment should be mounted so that nothing interferes with their expansion and contraction at different times of the year. In hot weather, siding should in no case rest against the structure of the house or other elements of the external cladding. If you forget about thermal expansion, the siding can deform and burst during operation, which will lead to the need for costly repairs.

Modern and high-quality fasteners allow you to install siding on the gable and roofs on a special metal crate. Proper fastening will ensure a long service life of the entire outer coating.

Fastening must be carried out in the center of the oval fastening holes, so that seasonal expansions will take place without any damage or damage.

To ensure unhindered expansion, the fastening should be loosened somewhat by unscrewing the fastening screw by half a turn.

A pediment is a part of the facade bounded by truss structures from above and an ebb, located at the level of the floor slabs of the upper floor, from below.

Sheathing of the pediment is made after the completion of all general construction work. Various materials are used for this: all types of siding, profiled sheet, lining, plaster compositions, boards.

Among this variety, siding occupies a special place as a universal, sought-after material for finishing a private house.

The answer lies in its technical and operational characteristics:

• Strength, reliability, durability. The main task for external cladding is to protect the wall and insulation (if any) from the negative effects of rain, snow, wind, and ultraviolet radiation. Siding does a great job of this. It withstands many freeze-thaw cycles without cracking. Does not corrode, does not rot. With the exception of wood, mold and fungus do not multiply on other panels. Metal siding reliably protects the wall from mechanical damage. It does not need to be replaced within 20-30 years, and metal is generally designed for 40-50 years of operation.
• Mounting technology. You can sheathe the wall on a crate with or without insulation, as well as on a bare base. All fasteners and additional elements are unified, the order of work is well studied and described. Therefore, installation can be done by hand, without the involvement of hired organizations.
• The cost per square meter. Paneling is one of the most inexpensive types of finishes. The material, together with the frame, is cheaper than a similar volume of plaster. Siding is sold in all hardware stores, it is available to everyone.
• Large selection of colors. Panels can be painted in any color palette, which opens up additional possibilities for facade design.

Thanks to these properties, siding remains one of the most popular materials for finishing a gable.

What siding to choose for the gable

For facing a private house, several types of siding are used:

• Vinyl. Gable sheathing with vertical or horizontal vinyl siding is the most popular way. It does not bend, does not crack under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Under it, mold and fungus do not develop. Unlike wood, vinyl panels do not burn, but soften and melt when exposed to high temperatures. They practically do not fade under the rays of the sun. There are panels in white, pastel or bright colors. The advantages of vinyl siding include low cost per square meter.
• Wood. This is a lining made of wood fibers pressed together. The most demanding of all types of siding. Wooden lining absorbs moisture and gynet. To slow down moisture absorption and decay, it must be periodically impregnated with an antiseptic. Siding tarnishes and cracks from ultraviolet rays. The service life does not exceed 5-10 years. It depends on the frequency of antiseptic treatment. The high cost per square meter also does not add to its popularity.
• Ceramic. New type of siding on the market. It is made from clay with the addition of organic fillers. Environmentally friendly and non-flammable finishing material. It is characterized by an average price per square meter. It is rare in our country.
• Cement. Textured siding imitating natural wood trim. It consists of cellulose molecules and cement. Cement-based siding does not collapse under the influence of precipitation and seasonal temperature changes. Its color does not fade from the sun, it does not crack. It is easy to mount. Siding does not require special care. Cement panels are heavy, so under them it is necessary to arrange a reinforced frame made of steel profiles. During cutting, it often bursts and crumbles. Cement siding has a very high price per square meter.
• Metal. Galvanized siding with a polymer or powder coating is used for sheathing the gable. It is much stronger than vinyl or wood. It does not collapse under the action of atmospheric precipitation, it is reliably protected from corrosion. The color of metal siding does not fade under the influence of ultraviolet rays, does not crack. Galvanized steel panels do not support combustion, they cannot be ignited. It costs more than vinyl, but it wins in terms of performance.

After analyzing all the available types of siding, we can conclude that it is best to use vinyl panels for facing the gable of a private house. In second place, not far from the first, are steel cladding elements.

How much does it cost to cover a gable with siding

1. Order calculation in the construction organization. Representatives of the company will come to the site, make all the necessary measurements and calculate the amount of material needed, its cost. This method is suitable when ordering a full range of works from calculation to installation. Separately, no one will agree to make measurements and calculations.
2. Use the calculator on one of the construction sites. A convenient way for people who understand what needs to be done and how to do it. To calculate the required amount of siding and additional elements, you will need the geometric dimensions of the gable, as well as the size of the windows (if any).
3. Do the calculations yourself. The most common way. The number of panels is determined based on the size of the gable. If it is shorter than 6000 mm, then solid panels are calculated, without a docking H-profile. If the gable length is more than 6000 mm, then an H-profile is installed in the middle of the gable, and the length of each element is equal to the distance from the ridge overhang to the dividing profile.

Additional elements are measured in running meters. These include window slopes, low tide, starting and finishing strips. The installation step of the carrier profile is 600-1200 mm. If the siding is mounted vertically, then the profile is horizontal and vice versa. The amount of windproof film is determined based on the area of ​​the pediment plus an overlap of 100-150 mm on the lower edge.

Gable trim for siding

There are three ways:

1. Without frame. Suitable for sheathing smooth wooden gables. Without a crate, it will not be possible to mount the siding on a stone or concrete base. With this method of installation, there is no ventilation gap between the wall and the outer cladding. The pediment may begin to "cry".
2. On a wooden frame. A common cladding method. The wooden frame can be used to install vinyl and metal siding. The frame consists of a square beam 50 × 50 mm, U-shaped suspensions (when the wall is strongly curved). Wood frame is rotten
3. By metal frame. Most often, for the installation of all types of siding, a frame made of galvanized metal U-shaped or L-shaped profile is used. It is mounted on a bare wall as well as on suspensions.

Rules for installing a gable from siding

• step of fastening suspensions or carrier profile 500-600 mm;
• distance from extreme suspensions and gable corners 50-150 mm;
• wooden bars before installation are treated with an antiseptic for 2-3 times.

Step-by-step instructions: how to sheathe a gable at home with siding with your own hands

For successful installation work, you must strictly follow the instructions and recommendations of specialists. The technology of siding installation has been studied in detail for a long time, exhaustive methodological recommendations have been compiled.

This completes the gable lining with vinyl or metal siding. Subject to the rules and installation technology, the pediment is reliably protected and will become a decoration of the facade.

Similar articles

Gable- this is the end part of the facade of the building, limited from two parties ... For these purposes, various finishing materials are used - from siding to facade plaster. Everyone has positive and negative...

Completely, but also, for example, during the construction of the roof of a brick house or any other, lined with bricks (from blocks, timber, frame). The siding of the pediment with a tide looks especially beautiful. It is this case that we will consider.

Finishing the gable with siding- the matter, in principle, is not tricky and you can do it yourself. It is better to do the work together: one works at the top and is directly engaged in sheathing, the second at the bottom cuts the material and feeds it.

It is very important to establish reliable scaffolding at the beginning of work. The more confident you feel on them, the easier it will be to work. Of course, it’s good when it is possible to use prefabricated ready-made scaffolding (for example, frame scaffolding), but when they are not, you have to show your imagination and build scaffolding from the boards at hand.

I want to note right away that in this example we are sheathing the gable of an uninsulated roof, which is made like a cold attic. When finishing the pediment of the mansard roof, the rooms under which are heated, there are some differences, which I will definitely mention.

So, we have a house, which will subsequently be faced with bricks. The roof is practically ready. The roof is made of metal tiles. The gable overhangs and cornices are sheathed with siding only from the end sides. The frontal ebb is not yet covered with metal tiles.

First of all, at the base of the pediment, we install the so-called abutment bar. To do this, we put a sheet of metal tiles under it and after cutting off the corner on the top shelf with metal scissors, we fasten the bar with self-tapping screws (for example, with a press washer). Enough 3 pieces per bar. Then we move the metal tile sheet and fix the next plank with a slight overlap (2-3 cm). So to the end.

We do not fasten sheets of metal tiles immediately, because they will interfere with subsequent work. As long as the pediment tide is not covered with iron, scaffolding can be attached to it, you can get up on it, and in the end, you can simply get hurt with the sharp edge of the metal tile.

I will make a small digression. As I already mentioned, the attic space in this example is unheated, so we make the siding sheathing directly on the boards without a frame and without using a vapor-permeable windproof film (membrane).

One inner corner (its length is 3 meters) is usually not enough for the entire length of the gable overhang. How to make the joints of the elements is shown in the photographs below. In order, from left to right, it is shown: 1) and 2) - how to perform a sidecut and a joint of adjacent internal corners; 3) 4) and 5) - how to cut and join the inner corners at the top of the gable.

Next, you can immediately sew up the gable overhangs with siding. And I want to note that it is not necessary to use soffit (perforated siding) in this case. For ventilation of the under-roof space, the soffit must be used when finishing the eaves from below. Through the gable overhangs under the roof, air practically does not circulate.

I usually measure the required length of siding panels as follows: insert the end of the tape measure into the inner corner and measure the distance to the outer edge of the outer corner. We add 5-10 mm to this distance. It is easier to mount the siding by first inserting one end into the outer corner, and then bending the panel slightly to fill the second end into the inner corner. This sequence is due to the fact that the outer corner usually has a deeper groove than the inner one.

Do not forget that in the cold season, siding becomes brittle and it becomes quite difficult to sheathe cornices with it. So that it does not break, the panels must be stored and cut warm.

So we cut the first panel at the required angle and fix it by controlling its position with a 90 ° square, applying it, for example, to the outer corner and to the panel itself. Then we insert the next panel, and so on. up to the top.

Sometimes a piece of H-rail or an internal corner is installed at the upper junction of the gable overhangs. We usually don't put anything in there. We just bend the topmost panel from one overhang and wind it up to another overhang by 2-3 cm so that the gap is not visible. What happens is shown in the photo below ...

Now we go directly to the pediment itself. First, set the start profile. It can be purchased directly from the store, or you can do without it. For example, in this case, we used the waste left after sheathing the ends of the cornices and gable overhangs. Their color doesn't matter. We just cut off everything superfluous and leave only the lock (see photo).

You need to fix the start profile so that later the first panel snaps freely behind it. To do this, during installation, we simply use any piece of siding, slipping our cheek under the starting profile (this is directly shown in the photo).

Again, I want to note that such a window installation is possible only when we have a cold attic. If the premises are residential and heated, the windows must be sunk at least 12-15 cm deep so that the window does not freeze through and make external slopes (this is required by plastic window manufacturers). In this case, instead of the J-profile, a near-window profile is used. You can do without a profile at all: just make external slopes, and close the joint between them and the siding with plastic corners.

So, we perform cutting of cashings at an angle of 45°, and in each corner joint the lower profile is made with a tongue (about 1 cm), and the upper profile is without a tongue. What happens is shown in the photo below ...

The ebb of the plastic window in the photo above is not shown. It is better to install it after the complete finishing of the pediment.

The next step is the installation of H-profiles. You must choose the places for their installation yourself, depending on the shape and size of the pediment and windows. You need to try to make sure that there are fewer scraps left, and that it looks decent.

As I said in my previous articles, we do not join overlapping siding panels without H-profiles and do not advise you. The joint eventually becomes clogged with dirt and after a couple of years it will be clearly visible. It doesn't look pretty to say the least.

After all the elements are installed, we proceed to the direct installation of the panels. So, they need to be cut at a certain angle.

To determine this angle, we make a template using any two pieces of the panel as shown in the photo. It is convenient to make two templates at once: one left, the other right. The process of further sheathing of the pediment, I think, is generally obvious.

The main thing is that the panels should be able to move freely left and right within 1 cm. I talked about this in and I will not repeat myself.

When all the panels are installed, it remains only to fix the sheets of metal tiles on the ebb of the gable.

That's basically it. Of course, I am sure that some builders do some things differently and in a different sequence. I just talked about how we do.

If you want to do the work with your own hands, try and you will succeed. Good luck!