Many of you, probably, have not even heard that the garden needs to be watered in the fall. Indeed, our grandparents were hardly involved in such matters. However, the climate is changing, autumn is not always rainy enough. September, like this year, can be rather summer than autumn (there was practically no rain). In such a situation, it is worth seriously considering the need for additional artificial irrigation.
Today, so-called moisture-charging irrigations are becoming more and more popular. In central Russia, most cultivated plants have the most intensive root growth in September and October. At this time, they need to accumulate before the long winter, as much nutrients and moisture as possible. Water plays an important role, plants receive useful substances from the soil along with it. Accordingly, if the soil is dry during this period, the roots will not be able to fully develop and, as a result, the plant will enter the winter weakened.
An additional factor is the greater heat capacity of wet soil compared to dry soil. It freezes and thaws more slowly. This quality is very important during winter thaws, which sometimes occur too abruptly and unpredictably. As a result, on moist soils, temperature changes occur more smoothly.
It is also impossible not to mention that many plants suffer not only from severe frosts, but also from the drying up of the soil. Shoots gradually evaporate moisture through the bark. Despite the fact that this process occurs with low intensity, during the long winter the tree consumes a fairly large amount of vital moisture. Evaporation is further enhanced in frosty and windy weather. With the advent of spring, the plant tries to compensate for the losses and it is very important that the soil at a depth of 0.5-2 m be moist during this period, without waiting for melt water (if the snow melts abruptly, then the melt water may not go into the soil, but drain down frozen surface crust to low-lying places).
Moisture charging irrigation in the conditions of central Russia should be carried out from mid-September to early October. Some practice watering at a later date - the end of October. You can ignore the rains, because in any case they do not fully compensate for the loss of soil moisture over the past summer.
To thoroughly moisten the soil layers, you need to pour about 100 liters of water per 1 m2. Under young trees, it is enough to pour about 50 liters of water, and under adults, with a spreading crown, you can pour from 150 to 200 liters. Try to water more heavily in a dry autumn than in a damp one. If your site has clay soil, then it is better to refuse water-charging irrigation altogether.
If the water in your area is slowly absorbed into the soil, you can make several wells (narrow holes) about 1 m deep around the perimeter of the crown and pour water into them. On highly absorbent soils, it is easiest to water with a hose, placing it near the tree and periodically changing the direction of watering (for uniformity). Your task is to moisten the soil under the entire projection of the crown, and not pour all the water under the trunk.
Watering time is very easy to calculate. Place the hose in a bucket and time how long it takes for it to fill to the brim. Recalculate how many minutes it will take for the required amount of water to pour out of the hose under the tree.
The climate is changing, we have to admit it, and where the garden used to bear fruit well without watering, today long droughts have become regular, which make you seriously think about artificial irrigation and not hope for rain.
Autumn droughts are also not uncommon. And the lack of water during the preparation of plants for winter is doubly dangerous.
Will help solve the problem moisture charging irrigation. Gardeners have many questions about this type of irrigation.
Needed or not? When to hold it - at the beginning or end of autumn? How much water to pour? Do you water when it rains?
We will try to answer some questions. And if you still doubt the benefits of winter watering, try watering some plants and not watering some, and then analyze the results and draw your own conclusions.
HOW DOES WATER RECHARGE IRRIGATION "WORK"?
Helps autumn root growth.
In autumn, in September-October, there is an intensive growth of active (absorbing) roots and the accumulation of reserve nutrients in plant tissues. At this time, the soil must be moist, otherwise there may be no autumn growth of the root system. As a result, plants are weakened, not well prepared for winter, and more often die from frost.
Keeps soil warm.
The heat capacity of wet soil is much higher than that of dry soil, so soil that is well-moistened since autumn retains heat longer, freezes and thaws more slowly, so that in the event of winter thaws, temperature fluctuations will be smoother, which, of course, is better for plants.
Prevents winter dryness.
In winter, fruit trees often suffer not even from frost, but from desiccation. The shoots evaporate moisture through the bark, and although the intensity of this process is very small, during the long winter without water replenishment, the losses are significant. Moreover, evaporation increases in windy frosty weather and in March-April, when the sun warms. Moisture reserves at a sufficient depth (0.6-2 m), where the soil cools less, will help compensate for water losses.
Solves the problem of spring lack of moisture. It happens that the snow melts sharply in spring, and the soil is still frozen, as a result, melt water almost does not soak into the soil, but drains. Or the winter will turn out to be little snowy. With a lack of water, the vegetation will be delayed. You will have to water the garden in the spring, but it is more convenient to do water-charging watering in the fall - with a margin for spring.
CAN WINTER WATERING BE HARMFUL?
For some stone fruits (for example, apricot, cherry plum, Ussuri plum, sandy, steppe and felt cherries), water-charging watering is more harmful than useful, because it can provoke root collar warming.
Water recharge irrigation can be harmful in heavy clay soils, in low areas, in areas with high groundwater. Here it is carried out in some years, when the deep layers of the soil are dried up.
WHEN TO WATER?
Moisture-charging watering is best done in the 20th of September (the period is indicated for the middle and northern zones of gardening), not paying attention to the rains, if any. None of the heaviest rains can compensate for the huge loss of soil moisture that occurred during the summer. If the summer was so dry that the plants withered, then it is better to postpone autumn watering and wait for leaf fall, otherwise secondary growth is possible.
Often, gardeners carry out water-charging watering later - at the end of October.
This is acceptable, but it is difficult to call such a period optimal, because in this case we miss the time when the autumn growth of the root system occurs, and if there is a lack of moisture, some of the roots may even die. As a result, the growth and development of the plant will be delayed in spring.
HOW MUCH WATER DO YOU NEED?
It is not enough just to "sprinkle" the soil with water. To wet deep layers of well-drained soil with a low groundwater level, you need to pour about 100 liters of water per 1 square meter. m. This is an average. But it is better to decide on a case-by-case basis. Say, under a young tree it is enough to pour 50 liters of water, and under an adult, sprawling one, 150-200 liters can be used. In dry autumn, water more than in damp. It is also necessary to take into account the mechanical composition of the soil - in a clay area, it is sometimes better to do without watering at all.
HOW TO WATER?
Watering can be done in different ways. For example, on heavy soil, when water is poorly absorbed, make several wells along the perimeter of the crown to a depth of 1 m and water them. On well-absorbing soils and on a flat surface, it is enough to put a hose under the crown and change its position from time to time to moisten the entire area along the projection of the crown, and not pour water only under the trunk. On sandy soil, which absorbs water very quickly and as a result only a small area under the jet is wetted, spraying can be used.
Watering is most often carried out with a hose. To determine when to water, put the hose in a bucket and note how long it takes to fill it up. Then recalculate how many minutes it will take to pour the required amount of water under the tree.
Moisture-charging irrigation: is it necessary or not?
Bad: In winter, plants often suffer not so much from frost as from desiccation, as the shoots continue to evaporate moisture, although not as intensively. The lack of autumn moisture leads to insufficient root growth, which weakens the tree, and in some cases can lead to its further death.
Good: Watering at a sufficient depth, where the soil cools less, will help compensate for the lack of moisture. In addition, the land well-moistened in autumn retains heat longer, freezes and thaws more slowly, so in the case of winter thaws, temperature fluctuations will be smoother.
Watering rules
For irrigation, holes 10-15 cm in diameter and 100-120 cm deep can be drilled in the near-trunk circle and row-spacing. Add water gradually, as it is absorbed. The depth of moisture depends on the soil conditions and the location of the garden. On sandy loams and loams with a low level of groundwater, water to a depth of 1.5-2 m. The average watering rate is 100-150 liters per 1 sq.m. On heavy soils, the watering depth is 20-30% less.
In addition, watering rates fluctuate depending on the age of the garden (see table).
Andrey ISAKOV, Ph.D. agricultural sciences
© L. ROMENSKAYA, agronomist
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Free shippingIn autumn, all the trees and shrubs in the garden begin to prepare for a long, difficult winter. Of course, nature has formed its own methods and mechanisms for them, but it is very necessary to help them in this preparation. In the spring you will find: your apple tree or plum tree is frozen. And you should not blame the harsh winter for this: you should blame yourself and your negligence. You can increase the frost resistance of the garden and its "inhabitants" if you water all the plants well. Therefore, their autumn watering is an important part of preparing for the winter. Autumn watering is different from ordinary summer watering: in autumn you will pour much more water under bushes and trees than in any, even the driest summer. Plants will stock up on moisture and will not be afraid of frost at all! But here it is important, however, not to overdo it. If the water is above measure, the air will leave the earthen pores. In such soil, the roots do not last long and suffocate! 
Determination of soil water needs.
No matter how abundant watering is in the fall, it is imperative to determine the water needs of the soil. The process is quite costly in terms of effort, but this work must be done: underfilling or overflowing water is extremely destructive. We determine the need for watering as follows. Near the trees preparing for watering, we dig holes to a depth of forty centimeters. Next, you need to get a little earth from their very bottom (into a fist). If the earthen clod compresses well, becomes dense, does not disintegrate, leaving a good wet mark on the paper (toilet), such land does not need watering at all. When the earthen clod is perfectly formed, dense, does not break up into fragments, but there is no wet trace left on paper, such soil needs to be watered less than thirty percent. Dry land, which cannot be “blinded” into a lump, decaying and crumbling, should be watered abundantly and for a long time. Any soil should be shed in autumn to a depth not less than half a meter, a meter exactly where the plant grows.
One square of land on which mature trees grow will require up to fourteen buckets, with a minimum rate of ten buckets. Young trees that managed to stretch a meter need a water norm of no more than three buckets. It is not necessary to start autumn watering if leaf fall is not yet observed. The growth of the shoots will then be too long, they will not ripen, they will not gain sufficient strength to overcome the winter. This is especially dangerous for young trees. Therefore, start watering when the leaves have already begun to massively fall to the ground. The temperature decrease should be carried out by two to three degrees. 
The picture shows an example of the use of hoses for drip irrigation.
How do you water your garden in the fall?
The choice of watering method is made according to the location of the garden. Is the ground flat, without slopes? We just stretch (throw) a few hoses along the rows. To ensure that water reaches each plant, shallow grooves or ditches can be dug along each row. In sloping gardens, a method called "sprinkling" should be used. With it, water is well absorbed by the earth, but there is a risk of overwatering the plants by increasing humidity. Then the trees can get sick. The most common method is drip irrigation. For this, entire hose systems are built. They are coiled around trees, connected to the main hose using various connectors. Such a system is prepared for a long time, but after watering it is carried out quickly and is guaranteed in the required volumes. Water comes to each tree, any water "excess" is completely excluded.
If the soil in the garden is dense, with poor drainage, heavy, it is not worth watering it in the fall. Groundwater in such soils stands for a long time, and additional water reserves can ruin the entire garden. After watering, the soil must be mulched. Peat, leaves, straw are suitable for this.
Here you can watch a video about water-charging irrigation:
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With the advent of autumn, nature begins to prepare for winter sleep. It would seem that you can hide garden tools and also relax. However, experienced gardeners know that it is necessary to continue caring for fruit trees in the fall, and this is a very responsible matter.
Summer is over, the heat subsided, but the trees need moisture during this period. And autumn rains do not always help. In order for the garden to survive frosts without complications, autumn watering of fruit trees should be carried out.
1 Why do you need autumn watering of the garden?
Water the trees in order to saturate them with enough moisture. In winter, despite the fact that the water freezes, evaporation, albeit slowly, still occurs. Moisture also evaporates from the branches of plants. Therefore, trees that have not been given enough water can "shrivel up" at low temperatures. The bark shrinks and the resistance of plants decreases. Frosts can damage the ground part of the trees.
In addition, well-moistened soil freezes less, has better thermal conductivity, which contributes to the heat from the lower horizons to warm up the roots and protect them from frostbite.
Due to the abundant watering, the plants are enriched with vitamins, nutrients, and the yield of the next year increases.
So, in order to prepare the garden for winter, you must not neglect the watering of the trees in the fall.
1.1 Determining the need for watering
Is it possible to water the trees in autumn if it rains often? It should be borne in mind that if the summer was hot and dry, then autumn rains will not be enough to optimally moisten the soil.
In autumn, the earth must be wetted deeply - by 1-1.5 meters. To find out how plentifully you need to water the garden, and how moist the soil is, you need to dig a hole 30-50 cm deep among the trees in the garden. By the condition of the soil at the bottom of the hole, you can judge the degree of soil moisture.
- If a handful of earth from the bottom of the pit is well compressed in the hand, forming a lump, and a wet mark remains on the napkin, the earth is sufficiently moistened and additional watering is not required.
- If a lump of earth forms but does not leave a trail, the garden needs watering, but the watering rate can be reduced by 30%.
- If the earth crumbles from the bottom of the pit, does not form a lump when compressed, it is necessary to water the garden.
2 Features and rules of autumn watering
Podzimny watering of trees is called water-charging, or water-charging watering, due to which the soil is saturated with moisture for the winter period.
In dwarf and columnar trees, the roots are located close to the soil surface, and may be subject to freezing. Therefore, they need to be watered first.
When calculating the amount of water for irrigation, take into account the size and age of the plants. For currants, blackberries, 3-5 buckets of water are required. And for large trees aged 4-7 years, you will need 5-10 buckets for each.
If watering is done from a hose, the irrigation time should be within 10-15 minutes. Repeat the procedure several times a day. The optimal amount of liquid is 60-90 liters per square meter.
In order for the water to be absorbed faster and the earth to be enriched with oxygen, the ground around the trees should be dug up.
2.1 Water recharge time
Podzimny watering is carried out in October and in the first half of November. Before the beginning of leaf fall, it is not recommended to water the trees abundantly. This can lead to prolonged growth of shoots, which in turn will negatively affect wintering and yields next year.
Moisture-charging irrigation is carried out with the beginning of leaf fall. The air temperature drops to +2 ... +3 degrees, and plants stop consuming water in large quantities.
2.2 Watering methods
You can water the garden in different ways: with a bucket, with a hose, sprinkling, drip irrigation, underground.
After watering, the soil must be mulched with leaves, peat, straw or loosened. Loose earth is less prone to freezing.
Don't count on autumn rains. In the best case, the earth will get wet 30-40 cm deep, but this is not enough for trees. Therefore, it is necessary to water the plants before winter.
However, there are contraindications to water-charging watering of trees in the fall. Do not water gardens located on clay, heavy, poorly drained soil, in lowlands, in areas with close groundwater.
It is also not advisable to exceed the watering norms.
The yield of fruit trees depends on the care of the garden in the fall. Watering plants at this time provides them with immunity to difficult weather conditions. The soil saturated with moisture and air contributes to the favorable development of the root system.
2.4 Watering trees in autumn: expert opinion (video)
