Do-it-yourself sewer system in a private house. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: a scheme for the disposal of waste products. Types of sewer systems in private homes

If desired, even a private house in the countryside can be equipped. The first thing a country dweller faces is the lack of a warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. It's not a luxury, it's a necessity. Laying sewerage in a private house is a complex process that requires taking into account every little thing. How to do it?

External and internal

Work related to the arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a fan pipe, a riser, as well as piping to all rooms where it is required is required: kitchen, toilet, bathroom and so on. As for the external system, this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires piping to a septic tank. You can also connect the sewer to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly facilitated if it is possible to discharge wastewater into a centralized system. If the house is located on an isolated site, then a system with a homemade septic tank should be created. It can be with or cumulative. The cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Laying scheme in a private house

Before starting work, you should draw up a plan for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, all the features of the house and the location of the premises should be taken into account. The finished version can look like anything.

When designing sewerage inside the house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only after that it is possible to determine where the rest of the system will be laid.

How to draw the right diagram

The sewerage scheme in a private house is an important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how well the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

1. On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the plan of the house. When drawing up a plan, it is worth considering the scale.
2. Then it is worth deciding on the location of the riser or the collector pipe.
3. At all levels of the building, the location of plumbing should be noted. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
4. From plumbing, it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, branches and corners should be taken into account.
5. It is necessary to measure the length of each element of the internal system and summarize the data. The result is the required number of pipes. In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is the drawing up of a diagram of the external system: the release of pipes, their laying to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What to consider when arranging an internal system

The laying of internal sewerage in a private house begins after drawing up an approximate scheme. At this stage, there are several things to consider:

1. To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
2. For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
3. To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45 °. This reduces the risk of blockages in the process of using the sewer.
4. It is best to use polypropylene for arranging sewage inside the house, or such material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying sewers in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Laying sewerage in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up the scheme and carrying out the necessary calculations, the purchase of materials is required. For wiring inside the house, gray pipes are used. For the arrangement of the external system, pipes of an orange tint are required. You can explain the difference in color based on logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, pipes have differences in properties. First of all, it concerns the material. Pipes located underground must withstand more serious loads. The material for their manufacture should be more rigid.

In order for the laying of sewerage in a private house to be successful with your own hands, you can use two-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. Much cheaper and no less effective is the use of orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used to equip an external system. This is quite enough for normal wastewater disposal.

How to lay pipes? It's simple!

Laying a sewer in a private house with your own hands requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, you will need an assistant to work. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve the quality.

The easiest option for laying sewerage is the use of PVC or PP pipes. A fairly wide range of such products is produced. If necessary, you can purchase material of the desired diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It is worth noting that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - cuff. Thanks to this element, laying the sewerage of a private house takes a little time. Joints are connected easily and at the same time reliably. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. For this, a silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable.

What to Consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

1. If pipes run through walls or ceilings, then they must be placed in special sleeves that reduce the load on system fragments.
2. The slope of the elements of the sewer system depends on their diameter and is prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material whose diameter is 5 centimeters, this indicator should be 3 cm / m, and with a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm / m.

Arrangement of sewer outlet

If a problem arises and the internal system does not match the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the release. This is the boundary zone between systems. At this point, the riser is connected to the pipe leading to the wastewater collection tank.

It is necessary to mount the outlet through the foundation wall. The depth of its laying should be below the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, in winter, difficulties may arise during the operation of the sewer. If the outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, then it will have to be punched. Its diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. From each edge, the sleeve must cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for the release of sewage.

Installation of the riser and further wiring

The size of the pipe from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to mount the riser in the toilet itself. Installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. To do this, use suspension brackets and clamps. You can also mount the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and other fragments of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They allow you to refuse the use of sealant. In those places where there is an intersection of elements coming from a shower, sink or bath, it is necessary to install a collector pipe. Its diameter should be from 10 to 11 centimeters. Do not forget about water seals. These elements do not allow unpleasant odors to penetrate into the living room.

On each floor, a revision is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clean the system in case of severe blockage.

What is a fan pipe

By observing the rules for laying sewers in a private house, you can easily create an external and internal system. In addition to installing a riser, a fan pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. A revision is mounted at the junction. After that, the fan pipe is brought to the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the ventilation system of the building or to the chimney.

Types of septic tanks

Laying an external sewage system in a private house is no less important than installing an internal system. With improper arrangement, problems can arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn the sewer into a big smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with a septic device. The most commonly used facilities are settling type. This is a container or a combination of them through which drains pass. Gradually they clear up. This occurs due to the deposition of heavy inclusions. After the drains pass additional purification in the filtration well or in the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological cleaning methods are used.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - storage. In this case, a closed container of a sufficiently large volume is installed. All drains are collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, sewage pumping is required, which is carried out. This method of arranging an external system is easier to implement. Plus it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not so difficult. The volume is determined based on settling for 3 days. The average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in the house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the tank for the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 = 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of an outdoor system

The laying of sewerage in a private house does not end after the complete installation of the internal system. After all, the arrangement of the outer part is required. Stages of arranging an external system:

1. First you need to prepare the materials: a finished container of the required volume made of PP or reinforced concrete rings. If desired, you can lay out of brick or pour a monolith.
2. The next step is to determine the appropriate wastewater treatment method.
3. After earthworks are carried out: a pit is dug under the tank and trenches for laying pipes.
4. All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about the comfortable maintenance of the septic tank.
5. Pipes should be mounted at a certain slope. This indicator should be 2 cm / m. Joints must be sealed.
6. The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
7. After carrying out work on thermal and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, it is possible to fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of the buildings on the plot. Do not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how the sewerage of a private house is carried out. If you follow all the rules, you will get a reliable system. Before starting the operation of the sewer, it is necessary to carry out its run. To do this, the system must be flushed with clean water. This will identify any shortcomings and correct them. Only then can the operation of the sewer system be started.

In fact, the process of editing individual fragments is not difficult. The main thing is not to make mistakes when drawing up a sewerage scheme, as well as to make the correct slope of the pipes. Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

To ensure a quality standard of living in your country house, you need to take care of the convenience of the outflow of used water and waste products. Properly calculated at the design stage and subsequently installed sewerage in a private house is the key to long and trouble-free operation. Such a design can be mounted independently, with your own hands, if you approach this issue thoroughly. The design of the house plays a key role in drawing up the scheme of the internal pipeline, but for laying the external sewer networks, several rules must be followed.

To make life in the country comfortable, it is necessary to carry out the main communications - plumbing and sewerage. In suburban areas, there is often no centralized sewerage network, so each owner of the house solves the problem on his own. Periodic use of the dwelling does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment, it is enough to arrange a septic tank.

Often in summer cottages, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped with a plumbing system, this option is fully justified, but with the installation of plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article, we will talk about how to make a sewer in a country house with our own hands in various ways (from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping), and also demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photo and video instructions.

Sewerage should be built according to the developed project, including schemes for external and internal piping.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient is the installation of a collector of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

1. Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country. You can dig a pit manually or with an excavator.
2. At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
3. It is necessary to install formwork from boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
4. It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe trimmings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer line and the overflow pipe between the sections.
5. The formwork is poured with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume with the help of a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at a time.
6. In the first compartment, the bottom is poured with concrete, a sealed section is formed, it will serve as a sump. Here, the wastewater will be divided into solid coarse fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
7. The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter wastewater.
8. An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an inclination of 30 mm per linear meter. In height, the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made to provide better cleaning.
9. The overlap of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to arrange a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and exhaust. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump of such a system will be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil in the area is clayey or groundwater is very close to the surface, it will not work to arrange a septic tank of this design. You can stop at a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and fixed to a concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment plant. Local stations are convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for suburban buildings of a large area. Specialists are engaged in the installation and launch of the device, the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

External line laying

From the exit of the sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank, it is necessary to lay a pipeline. The main line must lie at a slope providing the flow of polluted water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the trench is shallow, provide thermal insulation for the line.

The average depth for laying sewers is 1 meter, in warm regions it is enough to go down by 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If necessary, make a turn, this place is equipped with a manhole. For the line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, their connection must be tight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand, and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of sewage, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. It can be two / three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in size. In two-chamber septic tanks, the sump occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber ½. Here, a preliminary treatment of wastewater takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final post-treatment of wastewater takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. Thus, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps to avoid the systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in wastewater, in addition to organic matter, there are also insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a design will also have to be periodically pumped out in order to get rid of the sediment that accumulates in the sump. This can be done with a fecal / drainage pump. The frequency of maintenance of a septic tank depends entirely on the size / volume / composition of wastewater.

For the independent construction of such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The norm of water consumption per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of households, you will get the daily rate of water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m 3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m each, and a width of 2 m. Multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. The minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe is 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually, this sediment thickens and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be immediately cleaned. The septic tank needs to be cleaned infrequently. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge for 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewage equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological preparations with special enzymes appeared, processing sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment plant.

Bacteria need to be "fed" with oxygen for greater efficiency of their work. Tanks for a septic tank can be bought or made independently.

Before installing the finished structure of the septic tank, it is necessary to determine a suitable place for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house should go directly to the septic tank. Turning the pipeline is best avoided, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab / screed. The size of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water in the spring will flood the equipment of the device.

After installing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done with the help of cables placed in the stiffeners of the septic tank. In this case, you can not do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to communications, after digging trenches for pipes, laying a sand cushion and installing pipes. They should be laid under a slight slope - 1-2 cm per linear meter. Pipe laying is carried out to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After that, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem, you will need a polypropylene cord and a building hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, it will be possible to insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the shield to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. The septic tank has special holes with stamps. Connect a cable to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your area is large enough, then insulate the septic tank. Insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After completing the connection of electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be covered with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure in the process of backfilling the soil, water must be poured into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the backfill level of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with a ready-made plastic autonomous sewage treatment system, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for the implementation of the plan is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

• Affordable price.
• Unpretentiousness during operation.
• The ability to perform work without the help of specialists.

Of the shortcomings, the following deserve attention:

1. The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure absolutely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
2. The need to clean the chambers from solid waste using sewage equipment.

It is possible to reduce the frequency of the need to pump out a septic tank if bioactivators are used. They reduce the amount of solid fractions due to the fact that they accelerate the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is illiterate, then the septic tank will be leaky, which will increase the risk of untreated sewage penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be airtight, so this drawback of the system is rightfully called conditional.

The scheme for the construction of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1-2 chambers designed for settling and treating wastewater and a filtration field / filter well.

If few people live in your house and a minimum of plumbing devices are connected to the sewer, then you can easily get by with a septic tank, consisting of one sump and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have many households and many devices are connected to the sewer, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must contain a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that in order to build a septic tank for 5 people, you will need a sump of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people, you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m 3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that in order to equip a septic tank in this particular case, you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate the septic tank chambers and the filter well. These works, of course, can be done manually, but it is long and very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earthmoving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the installation site of the sedimentation chambers must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of penetration of untreated effluents into the ground. Before starting concrete work, it is necessary to drain a part of the bottom of the pit for the installation of sedimentation tanks, laying a sand cushion on it, with a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a blank bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires the preparation of the base. Under it, you need to make a pillow of sand, crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. It is very difficult to perform these tasks manually. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is laborious. Yes, and the bottom will have to be filled after the installation of the last ring, which will entail a number of inconveniences. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Typically, the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater structural reliability, they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not suffer due to ground movement.

Now it's time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to bring pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they must be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints, you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. From the outside, the tanks must be treated with coating or built-up waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water ingress will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings / backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, in which holes are provided for mounting sewer manholes. Ideally, the backfilling of the excavation should be carried out with soil with a high percentage of sand in its composition. But if it is impossible to realize this, the pit can be covered with soil removed from it before.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The wastewater treatment system from barrels, as well as a similar design made of concrete goods, can be two- or three-chamber. Wastewater will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The principle of operation of this device is similar to the construction of reinforced concrete rings.

For the arrangement of an autonomous sewage system according to the principle of a treatment system, you can use any containers. These can be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have several advantages over their metal counterparts:

1. A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
2. Barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of effluents. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
3. The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at the place of permanent deployment.
4. Plastic does not need to be further processed, unlike metal.
5. The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of dirty water penetrating into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fixed when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts, they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are fastened with cables to a concrete base (it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). In order not to crush plastic barrels, backfilling should be carried out very carefully.

For seasonal use, sewage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for arranging sewerage is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a cover, you can use a wooden blank of the appropriate size or the one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig an appropriate pit, which also needs to be concreted - walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they have been treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, their installation as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. Yes, and such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

For the installation of a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 l barrels, you will need the following materials:

• geotextile - 80 m 2;
• sewerage pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
• crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m 3;
• corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º - 4 pcs.;
• plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l - 2 pcs.;
• coupling, flange - 2 pcs.;
• wooden peg - 10 pcs.;
• Y-shaped sewer tee - 4 pcs.;
• building level;
• drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m - 2 pcs.;
• epoxy two-component sealant - 1 pc.;
• glue for PVC - 1 pc.;
• water tape - 1 pc.

Of the tools you will need:

• Shovel.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.

For a summer house / small country house, with economical use, standard plastic barrels are suitable. Installing such a cleaning system is easy. If you do not drain black drains into the sewer, then the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If the house has a toilet, then the sewer will have to be cleaned regularly, calling for sewage equipment.

For private houses with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes / tanks / tanks. The process of their installation in the ground does not differ from the installation of barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewer to the house:

• there is a need for a large deepening of the pipeline;
• on the way to the septic tank, you will need to install a revision well.

The sewerage system from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex installation work. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed for overflowing liquid from one barrel to another and a transition to the filtration fields / drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated with foam. After that, the pit with a septic tank is filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels are short-lived, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Scheme

It is not always possible to connect a country cottage to the village sewer system. But now there are various septic tanks for installation within your own estate. You can always put one of the options with your own hands and connect pipes from home plumbing to it. Just how to make a sewer in a private house so that it serves correctly and properly for many years. There are few rules for the design and installation of such an autonomous drainage system, but they must all be observed.

Regardless of whether a private house is connected to a central or autonomous sewer, the sewage disposal system on the street must be equipped independently. Before starting this work, it is necessary to develop an installation scheme that allows you to get by with the minimum size of the pipeline and sewer wiring.

This will reduce the cost of purchasing material and increase the efficiency of the wastewater disposal system. Particular attention should be paid to the depth of pipe laying, the angle of their inclination and the reliability of flange connections, since the performance of the sewer depends on these parameters.

Circumstances and layout of external sewage

The outer part of the sewer system in a private house connects the outlet of the internal drain with a waste storage tank located on the site, or with a central sewer, with a pipeline network. Read about the internal wiring in the house in the article. Laying of external sewer pipes is carried out according to a scheme developed in advance, taking into account the following circumstances:

• terrain features;
• weather;
• remoteness of wells and reservoirs;
• the total volume of effluents, depending on the number of people permanently residing in the house;
• the depth of soil freezing and its composition;
• ways of access of the car of a vacuum truck if necessary.

In the scheme of laying the external sewage system, it is imperative to provide for its ventilation, since otherwise, over time, unpleasant odors will penetrate into the living quarters. Read about the rules for the sewer ventilation device in the article. Ventilation is equipped with a fan pipe, which can be placed on the lid of the septic tank or on the section of the pipeline that runs from the house to the wastewater storage tank.

The septic tank is equipped at the lowest point of the geological relief of the site. This arrangement allows you to most optimally perform the installation of external sewage. It should be laid in a straight line to the location of the outlet pipe of the internal sewage disposal system.

Choosing a drain location

When choosing the location of the drain, you should, first of all, make sure that the unpleasant smell does not penetrate into the living quarters. As a result, it should be located no closer than five meters from the house. The optimal distance will be ten meters, it is also not worth placing a septic tank too far, since this significantly increases the cost of laying the pipeline network. The external sewage connection to the house should not be carried out at a right angle. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

• water sources should be located no closer than thirty meters;
• a septic tank cannot be installed on the border of a neighboring plot;
• for the convenience of pumping out sewage, it is better to place drains near the road;
• especially careful sealing of the storage tank is needed when the groundwater is located close;
• the laying of the pipeline network facilitates the natural slope of the terrain.

A cesspool for sewerage has been used since ancient times. Previously, they did not waste energy on sealing its walls, and when the pit was filled, it was covered with earth and a new one was dug out. Now the walls are made of bricks, concrete rings and other building materials.

Liquid waste fractions seep through the soil at the bottom, being filtered, solid components gradually fill the mine, and after a while they need to be pumped out.

The arrangement of a cesspool is advisable if the volume of wastewater in a private house does not exceed the value of one cubic meter per day. If this limit is exceeded, environmental pollution will occur.

Instead of a cesspool, you can equip a sealed container for the accumulation of wastewater. In this case, a thorough waterproofing of the bottom and walls of the shaft is performed. Thus, the possibility of contamination of the soil and drinking sources is prevented. The disadvantage of this system is the need for frequent cleaning, since the sealed container fills up rather quickly.

Decide on the type of treatment plant

Treatment facilities for a private house are equipped in the form of a simple cesspool without a bottom or a sealed wastewater tank. To improve the filtration of wastewater allows a single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning or a two-chamber septic tank with a filter well. A variant of the construction of three chambers with a filtration field, as well as with the use of a biofilter and an air supply system is possible.

A single-chamber septic tank, in essence, is a cesspool with a drainage layer. Crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand is poured at the bottom of the well. Passing through the filter layer, the liquid fractions of the waste are cleaned before entering the soil. After some time, the drainage layer must be replaced, as silt deposits are deposited on it. A single-chamber septic tank is suitable for a private house with a small amount of wastewater.

A two-chamber septic tank consists of a storage tank and a filter well, which are connected by an overflow pipe. In the sump, the faeces are partially clarified, then they fall into the mine with a drainage layer at the bottom. They seep into the soil already sufficiently cleaned.

A two-chamber septic tank is a popular sewerage option for a private house, as it does not require large financial costs for its equipment and works efficiently.

Installing a septic tank of two or more chambers, as well as a filtration field, virtually eliminates the possibility of environmental pollution. Settling in the first tank, the partially clarified effluent through the overflow pipe enters the next chamber with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic residues. Read about how to make a septic tank with your own hands from improvised materials in the article

After successively passing through all sections, the effluent enters the filtration field, which is an underground area of ​​about thirty square meters, where the final soil cleaning takes place. If there is free space on the site, this method of arranging sewage is optimal.

A septic tank with a biofilter is a station for deep sewage treatment. According to the principle of operation, it is similar to a treatment system with a filtration field, only in this case it is replaced by a water separator and anaerobic bacteria settled at the outlet of the overflow pipe into the fourth section, which cleans the wastewater by approximately ninety-five percent. Such water can be used for technical needs.

It is irrational to install deep cleaning stations in private houses with periodic residence, because if the sewage system of this design is not used constantly, the bacteria that decompose organic residues die. In addition, they are quite expensive.

Sewer pipe laying depth

The depth of soil freezing is a fundamental factor when deepening sewer pipes into the ground. They must be laid below the freezing point, otherwise they will freeze in winter, and it will be impossible to use the sewer until the spring thaw. The appearance of even small ice growths on the internal surfaces of pipelines leads to a decrease in their permeability and the formation of blockages.

In the southern regions, the depth of laying sewer pipes is fifty or more centimeters, in the central regions - seventy or more centimeters. You need to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in your area in order not to go deeper into the ground than necessary, since in this case the cost of doing the work will increase.

Organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house

The organization of the withdrawal of the sewer pipe from the house depends on the stage of readiness for operation of the building. If the house has just been built, shrinkage of the foundation is possible, therefore, drilling a hole in it for the outlet of the sewer pipe must be noticeably larger in diameter than the cross section of the pipe itself.

In the event that the house is just being built, the outlet pipe can be walled up during the laying of the foundation. The foundation of a house built several years ago will no longer settle, so the diameter of the hole drilled for the outlet pipe does not need to be increased. Plumbing fixtures should be located at a short distance from the common drain, since in this case it is easier to connect them to a common outlet. If the house has two or more floors, the bathrooms should be placed one above the other, in which case one riser can be dispensed with.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewage in a private house

The external sewage system consists of a cleaning tank and a piping system connecting the septic tank to the house. Before performing installation work, an external sewerage scheme is applied on the site plan.

Then special pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm are selected, intended for outdoor use. They are usually orange in color. A trench is dug to lay the pipeline. Its depth is selected depending on the climatic features of the area, the composition and characteristics of the soil, as well as other factors. If necessary, the pipeline network is insulated.

The most time-consuming part of the work when installing a sewer with your own hands in a private house is digging a pit for a cesspool or septic tank. The optimal distance at which the septic tank is removed from the house is about ten meters.

The volume of the storage capacity directly depends on the number of people permanently residing in the house and the frequency of their use of plumbing fixtures.

It is best to connect the storage tank to the outlet of the internal sewer in a straight line, bends and turns of the pipeline system increase the likelihood of clogging. For the convenience of cleaning, a long line in places of change of direction must be equipped with inspection hatches.
This is what a properly equipped external sewer looks like

Wastewater moves through the pipeline system by gravity, under the influence of gravitational forces, so you need to maintain the correct angle of inclination. If it is too small, large fragments of waste will be retained and the sewer will become clogged.

If the slope is too great, solid fractions will be thrown to the walls of the pipe, and again it will become clogged. Information on the correct sewer slope can be found in the article.

The desired angle is maintained and controlled by the building level when digging a trench, its depth increases as it approaches the storage tank or central sewer. A shock-absorbing cushion is laid at the bottom of the ditch, which is a sand mound, pipes are laid directly on it. If it is necessary to change the slope of the pipes, sand is poured in the right place.

An important operational parameter of the sewer system is the depth of the pipeline network. It must necessarily be below the freezing point of the soil in the region. Otherwise, in winter, frozen sewage can break the pipeline network and disable the sewer. To carry out repairs will have to wait for the spring thaw.

How to properly equip pipe insulation

To prevent the occurrence of emergencies in the cold season, it is better to perform thermal insulation of the sewer. Many modern materials, such as polyurethane foam, fiberglass or mineral wool, have good thermal insulation qualities. You can properly equip the thermal insulation of the pipe by simply wrapping it with insulation and placing it in a sheath made of a mixture of asbestos and cement.

You can also fix a plastic film over the thermal insulation. In cold northern regions, to protect sewer pipes from freezing, the insulation layer is additionally equipped with an electric heating system. In any case, the pipeline network must be laid below the freezing depth of the soil, especially if snowdrifts melt in the spring on the surface. An interesting experience in laying outdoor sewer pipes can be gleaned from the following video.