How to close the transition between tiles and laminate. How to make a technological joint between tiles and laminate. Materials and tools

Different floor coverings are used for competent zoning, so you can use the advantages of each coating to the fullest.

But how to arrange a beautiful joint? How to connect laminate and tile? How to make a junction of laminate and tiles without a threshold? The article is devoted to the answers to these questions.

In what cases is such zoning applied?

Tiles and laminate are materials that are not similar in texture, composition and technical characteristics. But they can make great neighbors.

The use of different floor coverings helps to apply the advantages and strengths of each cladding.

Arrangement of the joint

The connection of laminate with tiles should be neat and functional.

• If you do not think about the joint and leave everything as it is, dust, dirt and other debris will collect in the joint area. It will look ugly, and it will not be easy to clean the seam.
• If water gets into the seam, the laminate can swell, which will adversely affect the durability of the cladding.
• Water and moisture entering the seam will lead to the appearance of mold or fungus.

You can’t do without a beautiful joint, but what can it be?

Smooth joint

In the bathroom, tiles are laid on the floor, and the corridor is covered with laminate. The joint between the floor coverings is located in the area of ​​​​the doorway. This is one of the possible options for a direct connection.

Options for making an even joint:

Aluminum nut

On sale there are sills of different thicknesses, they will help to hide the joint and visually remove the differences.


Types of aluminum nut:

On sale there are sills of different thicknesses and lengths. If you need to cut the threshold, this can be done with a grinder and a sharp hacksaw for working with metal.

When working with a hacksaw, make sure that the hacksaw does not come off and damage the front of the nut.

The threshold is measured taking into account the platbands. You do not just fasten the threshold between the two extreme points of the door frame, but also cut it under the trim. This will help avoid cracks.

Solid T-shaped profile

Not cheap, but quality always costs money. The profile is suitable for smooth seam lines and will hide small differences. The profile is installed on the glue, which will ensure a secure fixation.

Flexible metal profile

It is practiced to install it at curly joints, but it is also suitable for even seams.

Figured joints of tiles and laminate

Installation of a PVC profile.

Metal profile with good flexibility

The installation of a flexible metal profile is carried out together with the laying of ceramic tiles. The profile has paws that are attached to the base.

The technology is as follows:

1. With a grinder or a hacksaw for metal, cut off the desired length of the profile.
2. With a slight effort of the hands, we bend the profile, giving it the desired shape.
3. When you lay the tiles, install the profile so that it is pressed against the tile on one side and the laminate on the other.
4. An even and precise cut is important, because the profile will cover 1 cm of each coating.

When tile and laminate are in different planes

Sometimes zoning means different planes. For example, the shoe area can be raised to a certain height, and the floor level in the bathroom can be lower than in other rooms to avoid a global flood.

For arranging the joint, when there are different planes, a box threshold is suitable. Such a threshold will block the difference up to 3 cm.

Joint without nut

Many refuse traditional options for arranging the joint. How to make a beautiful joint in this case?

How professionals join laminate and tile without a threshold - video lesson

To make a beautiful joint without a threshold, you must first fit the floor coverings as close as possible.

• Laminate and tile must be in the same plane. The thickness of the tile adhesive or the thickness of the laminate substrate is taken into account.
• A connection line is outlined, a layout is made to see how the material will fit.
• Ceramic tiles are cut according to the template. First, the tile is laid, and the laminate is fitted under it.

note

The tile is always installed first. You need to wait until the tile adhesive dries, and only then start laying the laminate. If you do the opposite, then moisture will get under the laminate and evaporation from the tile adhesive will lead the board. It is deformed, and the floor covering will become unusable.

• A grinder is used to cut tiles. Only a grinder can make a curly cut, besides, the tile cutter always makes a slightly arched cut, which is not suitable in this case.
• The underlay can be used to adjust the height of the laminate. There should be no drops, and the laminate fits as tightly as possible.
• The curved cut of the laminate is done with an electric jigsaw.

Seam options without threshold

Silicone sealant

You can go through the seam sealants. It will protect the seam from moisture and dirt.

Cork compensator

Cork compensator is a thin strip 2 cm thick from a cork board. She inserts into the seam between the laminate and the tile.


The tile is cut and adjusted as close as possible to the laminate. There remains a gap of 2 cm, where the compensator is inserted with a screwdriver. Cork is a material that can be bent, it compresses and does not deform from this.

A joint thickness of 2 cm will be enough for tiles and laminate to “play”. From humidity, temperature changes, the floor covering always “plays”, and the cork compensator will expand and contract along with the floor covering.

The cork compensator should rise above the coating no more than 1 mm. The protruding part can be cut or sanded.

Cover the compensator with a tint to match the tile or laminate to make the joint as inconspicuous as possible. Keep in mind that cork absorbs paint well, so the color will be saturated.

The cork absorbs moisture so that the compensator does not become unusable, it must be coated with a moisture-repellent agent. Such a tool will serve as a special wax, oil or varnish.

The junction of laminate and tiles without a threshold using a cork compensator - video recommendations

Outcome
The use of tiles and laminate will allow for zoning, visually expand the space, and enrich the interior. But in addition to laying tiles and laminate, you need to think about a beautiful and neat seam. The attractive appearance and durability of the cladding depend on the quality of the arrangement of the seam.


In the article, you saw various options for arranging a seam between a tile and a laminate.

When a house or apartment is being renovated, very often different flooring is laid in the rooms. For example, there is a laminate in the bedroom, and ceramic tiles in the hallway. How to properly connect them together so as not to constantly stumble at the transition, and dust and dirt do not get into the gap? Very simple - you will need thresholds for laminate . With their help, you can accurately splice any surface.

The modern building materials market offers customers dozens of types of floor and wall coverings. That is why all the rooms in the house are usually decorated in a different style and in different colors. Also, do not forget about practicality. Ceramic tiles are great for the kitchen and hallway, natural stone looks great in the office and living room, and laminate in the bedroom and nursery.

The junction of tiles and laminate can be decorated with a molding or threshold

And quite often, designers can combine laminate and tile in one room, zoning or emphasizing some decorative elements. In all these cases, it is necessary to somehow connect the various coatings and align them. First you need to consider the joints themselves. They are subject to the following requirements:

1. Aesthetic appearance.
2. The same height of different coatings.
3. The nut should not only close the gap, but also protect the joints from damage.

As a rule, the need to splice ceramic and laminate arises in large kitchens connected to the dining room. The tile lies near the work area, and the laminate is laid near the dining table. There are two options for such zoning:

1. With the creation of a podium (steps).
2. Create a level floor.

Note:it is much easier to make a podium than to level the surface on one level. As a rule, the thickness of the adhesive and tiles comes out more than the laminate lamellae.

Such zoning is also often found in the hallway and corridor, in the bedroom and corridor, etc.

The combination of laminate and tiles allows you to create a unique interior

Moldings and sills

If you want to get a flat floor and have already laid tiles and laminate, then you can connect them with molding or sills. They are made from:

1. Durable plastic.
2. tree.
3. aluminum.

The most durable material of the three above is aluminum. Plastic is wiped off in about a year and a half of active walking, wood - in 3, aluminum can last more than 5 years. But the problem is that it has a limited choice of colors and it may not always match with your interior. Therefore, it may be better to install plastic products. If your floor turned out to be perfectly flat, then put moldings (smooth, narrow strips). If there is a height difference and you want to protect junction of tiles and laminate , then set the threshold. It will help smooth the surface and gently protect the edges of the material.

As a rule, sills and moldings are made straight, but sometimes other options can be found in stores. If you need to bend the product a little, then purchase plastic or aluminum. They can be given the necessary shape by successively fixing them to the surface with dowels or self-tapping screws.

Note:moldings can have an open or closed mount. If the visible self-tapping screws do not spoil your design, then take the first option. If you want the fasteners not to be visible, then buy closed moldings.

There are open and closed fasteners for the sill and molding

A closed molding works according to the following principle - at the junction of two materials, a flat clamping bar is fixed with special dowels with a raised head. On top of these heads, a second protective decorative strip is attached. Heads securely hold it from displacement.

Butt joint

There is another way to connect without purchased sills and moldings. In some situations, butt-to-butt joining of materials is allowed, but for this it is necessary to work very carefully and follow all laying technologies. It is necessary to achieve a perfectly smooth surface and bring the tile and laminate to the same level. Lay the tile first and let it dry completely. Then lay the laminate, cut the last strip so that it does not reach the edge of the tile by 3-4 mm and fix it through the lock with self-tapping screws along the entire length. The remaining gap must be sealed with the grout that you used for the tiles. It is in this way that wavy and curvilinear joints are formed - you are unlikely to find sills and moldings of this form.

Sealant, polyurethane foam

Joint between tiles and laminate you can seal it with the most common sealant or even just fill it with foam. Usually, various non-standard solutions are made in this way - silicone and foam can be blown into any cracks or to any depth. To make the joint more beautiful, you can choose silicone of the appropriate color, or, after the foam dries, cut off its upper part and close the hole with grout to ceramics, as described above. An additional advantage of this method is that the foam and sealant adhere to the base and to the ends of the material, additionally protecting the surface from swelling or destruction.

Note:experience with sealant and especially foam is essential. It expands greatly when it dries, so it can crawl out to the surface from all the cracks. To prevent damage to the laminate, cover it with masking tape or cellophane.

Cork compensator is an excellent choice for grouting

Cork compensator

It is the most practical choice for sealing seams and joints. Cork is a very soft material, it is well squeezed and fills the cracks. But in order to install a cork compensator, it is necessary to perfectly bring the level of tiles and laminate (there should be no difference between them). If you succeed, then the result will be simply excellent.

Types of joints

Joints can be:

• rectilinear;
• curved.

The easiest way to work with straight joints. Try to make sure that they are located in the most narrow and inconspicuous places. For example, in the center of a doorway. The width of the gap should not be more than 5 mm., and first you need to lay the tile, and then join the laminate to it. The easiest way is to connect straight joints with a threshold. The fact is that the molding provides a perfectly flat surface, and if you have any differences, it will not fit snugly. Debris and dust will immediately fill up in this gap. The threshold, in turn, does not require perfectly flat surfaces and levels them quite effectively. If the difference is minimal, then run it entirely into the slot - you get a very neat and pleasant look. If you assembled the podium, then there will be no problems with the connection at all. Protect the step with a threshold from above, and either grind the gap from below, or insert the same threshold into it, only turning it 180 degrees.

If you have a curved or wavy joint, then you have to tinker more. First of all, lay the tiles and wait for the glue to dry completely. Then lay the laminate. Insert the last lamella into the lock and lay it on the tile. Now you will need a sheet of cardboard or thick paper. Draw on it a template of the wave you like, cut it out and put it on the laminate. With a simple pencil, transfer the drawing to the laminate and lifting it, cut out the outline with a jigsaw. Now transfer the wave pattern to the tile. Remove the last lamella of the laminate so that it does not interfere with you, and with the help of a grinder and a diamond blade, cut through the ceramic to the required depth. Use a chisel to remove all excess and remove dust.

You can seal the seams between tiles and laminate with ordinary grout.

Cut the underlay for the laminate at a distance of 10 centimeters from the joint line. Then cover the floor surface with silicone and lay the last figured lamella in place. If necessary, the laminate can be slightly raised or lowered to reach the level of the tile. After the panel is glued, fill the gap with grout.

If you want to close joint between laminate and laminate , then proceed according to one of the above schemes. In most cases, regular molding will suffice, while the grout option will help you assemble complex shapes.

The use of several types of flooring in the same area always entails the question of “how to join tiles and laminate”. After all, this must be done not only visually beautiful, but also qualitatively. Today, many are thinking about dividing into two zones: a work area and a place for lunch. In this regard, that part of the floor where the kitchen set is located is tiled, and the other part of the room is laminated.

Why combine coatings?

The combination of several coatings in one room provides a number of obvious advantages, for example:

• The ability to create your own interior design and choose the necessary color range of materials.
• Division of zones into several segments depending on their purpose. Those places where there is constant movement, heavy objects can fall, the floor gets dirty - it is recommended to tile it, and the second area of ​​the floor of the room, where people will spend only some part of the time, can be finished with laminate.
• Ease of cleaning the flooring, as well as increased service life.
• Such a move will help visually increase the space in the room.
• Saving flooring costs. You do not need to buy tiles for the entire kitchen area if it has a large volume. Instead, the financial cost is reduced if half of the room is covered with laminate, which is less expensive.

In addition to the kitchen, the division of space can also be found in other rooms of the house, such as the hallway or hallway. In these rooms, there is also the possibility of permanent contamination of the floor. In these cases, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware will come in handy. The latter option is distinguished by its high cost and therefore it will be too costly to veneer the entire floor in the room. Therefore, you should combine tiles with laminate, and a smooth transition with the help of a threshold will visually divide the room into zones.

Choice of docking method

At the moment, there are several ways to join tiles with laminate. Some of them require long and painstaking work, while others are easier to install and are common.

Tight fitting of materials

This method is good for connecting finishing materials of the same type, for example, in the interior space. It is possible to connect a slab and a laminate in this way, but this process will require perseverance and accuracy in work. Due to the fact that the floor tiles have a thickness much greater than the laminate, you will have to raise the level of the screed in the area where the latter will be located.

Achieving a perfectly even joint will still not work due to the difference in the properties of the materials. Under the influence of temperature, the laminate may increase in size. In order to avoid such a situation, the seam between the tile and the laminate is filled with grout, after which it is cleaned until it matches the floor covering. Of course, the option is possible if you glue the laminate board to the floor with liquid nails or silicone, and coat the joint of the tile with the laminate with acrylic sealant.

The main rule in floating laminate floors is that there is only one fixed side, and the rest are free for linear expansion.

Seam with silicone

This method is based on filling the joint with sealants and silicone. The use of these materials will make the seam more invisible. The material for filling the seam is selected in color to the finishing material.

If you have to make repairs in the future, then it will not be easy to remove the flooring - this is the disadvantage of this method. Accuracy in work will also be required - after all, foam or sealant must be applied gradually. The advantage of this method can be considered the reliability and strength of the structure.

Using a cork compensator

This method is an innovation in the construction industry. This method is durable and reliable. Cork material has the ability to compress, and therefore will not deform the flooring. Also, a cork expansion joint aesthetically and hermetically fills the seam and is an alternative to the most common joint method - the nut.

With the help of tinting the compensator, you can achieve the desired color. But this method requires a perfect fit of materials, otherwise the use of a cork compensator is impossible.

The use of the nut for the joint

The most common, effective and affordable method for today. This method compares favorably with others in that it has a number of advantages. A variety of materials for the nut allows you to choose the one that best suits the style: aluminum, wood, plastic or steel.

If the joint has a non-standard shape, such as bends, then plastic sills will help to cope with this issue. Another plus of using the nut is the ability to hide all the bumps and joint defects. Well, the decisive factor in choosing this particular method of docking between and is the ease of installation and the variety of color schemes.

The choice always remains with the consumer, so before you decide on the method of joining the coatings, consider which option is most suitable for your materials.

Features of installing the nut at the junction

Since the option of using thresholds at the joints between laminate and tile is the most common, you need to know some of the nuances of its installation.

The sills are made from various materials: wood - rarely used, as they tend to dry out; plastic - often equipped with a special rubber gasket for a tighter fit to the joint; aluminum is the most popular product option due to its wear resistance and strength.

Depending on the type of connection, the sills are:

• With through fastening. The option is good because it has a simple installation, and is also able to hide a small height difference between the coatings. Additionally, such a threshold is planted on sealed glue.
• In the form of an H-shaped bar. This design contains grooves on both sides. On one side of the lower part of the product, a laminate is started, and on the other, a tile. The gaps are filled with appropriate materials - silicone and grout.
• Collapsible plank. Here, the threshold is based on two T-shaped strips, which are laid along the junction line of both coatings. Then they are connected into one piece, after which a decorative overlay is installed, which snaps on top.

To install a metal threshold that has a through fastening, you must:

1. Measure the length of the joint and measure this distance on the product.
2. Attach the threshold to the junction and outline the points for the fasteners.
3. Using a puncher, drill or screwdriver, drill holes that are suitable in diameter for the self-tapping screws on which the threshold will be attached.
4. Insert seals into the product and attach to the installation site using fasteners.

The threshold with a hidden mount has a slightly different installation order:

1. Unpack the product and cut off on both sides a length equal to the length of the doorway;
2. Using a tool, drill holes in the floor at the junction;
3. Install plastic dowels in the holes obtained;
4. Insert the screws into the groove on the inside of the nut and position them so that they match their location with the dowels in the floor;
5. Carefully insert the product into the holes;
6. Nail the threshold to the floor with a mallet with gentle movements. In order not to damage the product, use a wooden block.

The ease of installation of the threshold for the joint between laminate and tile makes it popular among consumers. Proper installation will help ensure the aesthetic appearance of the floor covering.

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Currently, there are many design solutions for flooring, including a combination of tiling and laminate flooring, which allows you to finish different areas of the surface in one room, taking into account their functionality.

For example, in the kitchen, the floor area adjacent to the sink should be lined with ceramics, chemically and waterproof, and the floor of that part of the room that is used as a dining room can be made comfortable for slippers and warm by covering it with laminate.

Combined floor finishing is also used to improve the aesthetics of the premises by zoning them, which allows you to use a combination of several spectacular types of finishing materials for floor finishing. However, if the joining of surfaces finished with different materials is done carelessly or incorrectly, the aesthetics of the floor finish loses its effectiveness.

Having decided to use a combination of materials such as tile and laminate when finishing the floor, you need to know the technology for performing this subspecies of work.

Possible options for pairing surfaces finished with tiles and laminate:

• Straight joint:
  • without gap;
  • with cork compensator insert;
  • with the installation of a sill or molding.

• Curly conjugation:
  • without gap;
  • with the installation of a cork compensator or molding.

Let's consider the ways of arranging these interfaces.

Joint in a straight line

Docking ceramics with a laminate in a straight line without a gap is the simplest solution to the issue of mating finishing materials. But with high-quality performance, the severity of a straight line only emphasizes the aesthetics of the facing of mating surfaces.

Work sequence:

• docking line marking;
• laying tiles up to the border of the joint (dismantling of ceramics from the part of the floor planned for replacement of the lining);
• underworking the edge of ceramics;
• laminate flooring;
• seam sealing.

The joint line on the floor is marked along the cord by drawing a clear scratch along the ruler. Tiles begin to be laid from this line so that only whole sheets of tiles are used in pairing. After the tile adhesive has hardened, the ceramic edge along the joint is finished by grinding with a grinder with a dry cutter to perfect straightness.

If it is decided to replace part of the ceramic floor cladding with a laminate, then along the intended line, a grinder with a dry cutter cuts the tiles with tile adhesive to the subfloor, dismantle the finish planned for replacement, and also finalize the joint edge with a dry cutter.

Laying the laminate should be done from the border of the joint with ceramics, leaving a gap of 1 mm. If the laminate is laid parallel to the joint, then on the side edge of the first row adjacent to the tile, a protruding spike-lock must be grinded off for better joining with the tile.

Surfaces must be joined at the same level so that there are no differences in height. If the level of the laminate is more than 3 mm below the level of the tile, a layer of cement-based tile adhesive is applied to the subfloor and, after curing, the laminate is laid. A difference of less than 3 mm is eliminated by placing strips of cardboard or paronite under the laminate perpendicular to the strips of the laminate.

If the level of the laminated coating at the junction is higher than the level of the tile, the lower surface of the extreme strips is grinded with a grinder with an abrasive wheel to the desired thickness, primed together with the base and glued to the floor. Along the interface line to a width of 0.5 m, laying the substrate under the laminate does not need to be done.

After the laying of the laminate, the millimeter gap with the tiles is filled with an elastic sealant for the purpose of waterproofing. To protect adjacent surfaces from silicone contamination, a masking tape is preliminarily glued along the joint. Excess sealant is removed immediately with a damp cloth, after which the protective tape is also removed.

Straight joint with cork expansion joint insert

The cork compensator assumes and dampens the stresses of the cladding materials caused by changes in their geometric dimensions with significant fluctuations in the temperature and humidity parameters of the environment. Docking ceramics with a laminate with a cork compensator inserted between them differs from the previous method only in the width of the gap, which should be 2-3 mm.

Filling the compensator into the slot is easy to do with a screwdriver, it does not require impregnation, painting or routine maintenance. The compensator hides small irregularities of the edges of the joint, its elasticity allows the use of this insert between materials and in curly mates.

Mating in a straight line using a nut or molding

To simplify and speed up the process of aesthetic pairing, docking thresholds or moldings are used, which also make it possible to make edge defects and mistakes made during work invisible. The sills and moldings can be metal, plastic, wooden, of various sections and color tones.

When using the threshold, the border between the tile and the laminate is somewhat convex, but the profile of the threshold is always streamlined and does not create a risk of falling. The sills are superimposed over the junction of materials and fastened to the floor with screws, which are then masked with decorative plugs to match the color of the sill.

Moldings, depending on their profile, can be inserted into the gap between the materials from above and stay in it due to the burrs present on their partition, or they can be inserted into the mating from the side, level the mating surfaces and, after installation, be motionless in a vertical plane. Moldings are available for both direct mates and curly joints.

Figured interface of surfaces

This form of joining materials is the most time-consuming to perform, but its aesthetics is unrivaled. First, tiles are laid on the floor, slightly overlapping the future border with the laminate. Then, after the tile adhesive has hardened, a figured line is applied to the ceramics with an alcohol marker, along which the tile will be paired with the laminate. With a grinder with a dry cutter disk, you need to make a cut of tiles and tile adhesive to the subfloor according to the marking, and then refine the cut with the side surface of the dry cutter until the lines are smooth.

Making a mate template

To continue work, you need to make a joint contour template. Take a strip of thick wrapping paper, and put it over the edge. Pressing the paper to the edge along the joint, you need to make an imprint of the interface line on it. The imprint line is outlined with a marker, a cut is made along it with scissors.

From the two curly paper strips obtained, the one that is located above the tile is selected, and a joining line template is made from thick cushioning cardboard, paronite or plywood. The template is applied to the curly cut line of the tile and its final adjustment is performed until it completely coincides with the contour of the ceramic.

Laminate begin to lay from the junction with the tile. A strip of laminate is inserted between the tile and the template laid on top of it, a line is drawn on the template with a pencil, and a figured cut is made with a jigsaw. The operation is repeated for each strip joined with ceramics.

The size of the gap between the laminate and the tile must be made depending on the method of joint design: 1 mm - with the "without a gap" method, 2-3 mm - for inserting a cork compensator, and when using a flexible molding, the gap width between the finishing materials must correspond to the profile of the molding. The adjustment of the levels of the surfaces of the materials must be done in the same way as in the case of a direct joint.

The implementation of this type of joining of ceramics with a laminate requires the performer to perform all operations accurately, therefore, the entire scope of work is divided into small parts, performed carefully and without haste.

Docking laminate and tiles is a popular technique used in both large houses and small studio apartments. This combination method is used for space zoning - dividing it into functional areas. To perform the joints neatly and correctly, you need to keep in mind a few nuances.

Peculiarities

Docking laminate and tiles is used quite often in apartments and houses. This is due to the fact that tiles and laminate are installed in different rooms with different functions. So, tile is more practical than laminate, but it is colder - you don’t walk barefoot on such material. Thus, we can conclude that one of the frequent places where the junction of these two materials is formed is the space under the door.

The combination in the doorway has its own characteristics. First of all, it is worth noting that not every docking method is suitable here.

The most important requirement is the presence of a gap between the floor and the door. The gap should be about 2 cm. It is left so that the air circulates freely.

In addition, docking features are determined for different rooms. So, if they combine the joints of the laminate and ceramic tiles in the corridor or hallway, then they will definitely take care to create a small obstacle, an obstacle. This is done in order to trap dust and dirt that accumulate in the hallway, to prevent them from spreading around the house. So, here the joint has not only aesthetic functions, but also practical ones.

Speaking directly about materials, it is worth paying attention to their different density, different susceptibility to different conditions. If the tile, in principle, is not afraid of any influences other than mechanical ones, then the laminate is more capricious. It is not only prone to scratches. There is a possibility that the material will swell from high humidity, crack under the influence of temperature changes, therefore, sparing techniques must be used when installing the joint.

A characteristic feature of combining tiles and laminate is the sequence of laying these floor coverings. Since the tile can withstand heavy loads, it is laid first, and then the laminate is adjusted under the tile. This is because if you lay the laminate first, it may be exposed to the moisture that the tile evaporates after it is laid. Water can also seep under the laminate. All this will inevitably lead to the fact that the lamellas are deformed and the surface will be hopelessly damaged.

Returning to the question of where the joining of laminate and ceramic tiles is used, it is worth citing the following areas as an example:

• doorway space;
• zoning the kitchen area (for example, separating the working area from the dining area or to separate the kitchen area from the recreation area in the combined kitchen-living room);
• separating the area adjacent to the front door from the rest of the hallway or separating the hallway itself if it goes directly into the hall;
• separation of the loggia zone, when the balcony is combined with the living room;
• decoration of the space around the fireplace.

So, tile is used mainly for reasons of convenience or safety, while laminate attracts primarily with its aesthetic qualities.

Please note that the floor is not fully tiled (with the exception of the bathroom), since walking on such material is a dubious pleasure. It is cold and often very slippery.

Modern docking methods

To date, experts have identified several ways of docking. Each of them is determined by the shape of the joint. Some of them are easier to use, others only look impressive, but in fact, working on their design and caring for such options is extremely difficult. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that not every joint can be designed independently: in some cases it is better to entrust the work of clearance clearance to a professional.

There are three connection methods: straight, wavy and broken. Each of them has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages, which must be considered in more detail in order to better understand what you will encounter.

Broken

The broken version looks very impressive, but the owner of a home with similar boundaries will have a hard time. Firstly, the beautiful and correct design of such a seam is a real headache even for a professional.

All elements must be clearly calibrated, ideally, each detail should not differ from all others. This applies to both the tiles themselves and the laminate, as well as the sills, if they are used.

As a rule, kinks are obtained due to the fact that the tile is not cut, and the laminate is laid back to it. This method is used in cases where it is necessary to combine materials of similar texture and colors so that the canvas looks like a single one. Such seams are rarely emphasized by any elements, since this contradicts the very concept of creating the appearance of a monolithic floor.

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Such seams are most often finished off with the help of additional elements - sills. This is due to the fact that it is quite difficult to make the seam itself perfectly even. To do this, you need not only to have skill and experience, but also to have the necessary tools, which include such expensive equipment as a professional circular saw. At home, a grinder with a diamond disc is used much more often, since it allows you to cut off part of the tile as accurately as possible.

However, if during the cutting of any of the materials there were difficulties and the borders did not turn out to be perfectly even, then the threshold is needed to close the defective seam. This achieves a harmonious appearance of the entire coating. Keep in mind that using a threshold is not always appropriate.

Straight

The most common variant of cracks that need to be repaired. Direct gaps are most often drawn up without the help of a threshold, since this method is more preferable on the territory of the premises. In this case, we are not talking about the location of the seam in the doorway, although even there builders often advise avoiding the installation of thresholds. An exception are decorative varieties, the use of which is determined by the style of the room.

Each of the transitions needs a special approach, and in order to connect the coatings, the shape of the seam must also be taken into account.

Regardless of which docking method is chosen, it is important to know how to properly carry out this docking, how to properly prepare materials.

How to join?

In order to correctly make the transition of coatings into each other, you need to take into account several subtleties. In particular, we are talking not only about the shape of the joint, but also about where it is located, as well as what additional functions are assigned to the joint and whether they are assigned at all.

An example is the situation when it is necessary to connect tiles and linoleum in the kitchen area. The center of the room is laid out with tiles, and a laminate is laid around the perimeter. In this case, the seam itself should not retain pollution or perform a delimiting function.

Floor coverings play only an aesthetic role, and such a division is also used for convenience: stronger tiles are located in a space that is subjected to constant loads.

In the described situation, the person considering the design does not pursue the goal of making the gap more noticeable, emphasizing it, so it would be quite reasonable to opt for a thresholdless seal. You can decorate the junction of materials with each other using an ordinary sealant. This will not only have a great effect on the operational properties of the floor, but will also look quite attractive.

If it is necessary to close up a gap located on the border of two rooms, and even with a different floor level, you will have to use the threshold. This is especially true in cases where the height difference exceeds 1 cm. From an aesthetic point of view, this solution is less acceptable, in contrast to the thresholdless method, however, in the absence of other alternatives, aesthetics have to be sacrificed.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the threshold can be fixed not only with self-tapping screws. You can do without drilling.

An alternative to the threshold can be the installation of a podium.

This option has its own specific features:

• it is recommended to join the coatings using a podium if the height transition is extremely large (for example, 5-10 cm);
• the design itself is traumatic, since people often do not notice the catwalks and stumble over them;
• injury risk is especially high in cases where children live in the house;
• the podium does not always fit into the surroundings, so you need to take into account the features of the interior.

It is impossible not to make a reservation that from an aesthetic point of view, the podium looks more attractive than the threshold. You can place any bright object on it, making it the accent center of the interior. This solution, of course, is unacceptable if such a step-like transition has to be organized in the doorway.

Thus, there are at least three ways to combine such dissimilar coatings as tiles and laminate. It is worth taking into account the appropriateness of using this or that method, how well the new element (or lack of it) will fit into the interior.

Unlike podium equipment, transition without a threshold and with a threshold are universal, so it is necessary to consider them in more detail.

Nutless

The option, in which the coatings are connected without the use of a threshold, can be called more difficult to perform than the design using a threshold. This is due to the fact that the seam line must be perfectly aligned. Otherwise, the coating will look sloppy, even sloppy.

If you plan to combine coatings without a threshold, then it is recommended to entrust the work to a person who already has experience in the construction industry, since working with tiles is quite scrupulous. When trimming, the tile can crack, chip, and as a result, the entire appearance of the floor covering will be hopelessly damaged.

So, there are several ways to join coatings without using a threshold.

Cork compensator

This option cannot be attributed to the economy class. Often, a cork expansion joint is installed between parquet and tiles, but there are also cases when it is chosen for installation between tiles and laminate.

The compensator itself is a strip of cork, one of the ends of which is painted or otherwise shaped to completely merge with the coatings. Compensators are made in various dimensions. The width is 7-10 mm, the length is 900 mm, and the height is 15-22 mm.

Please note that in some cases it is possible to order a larger expansion joint (1200-3000 mm).

Grout

This method is not as good as the previous one, but it is also used quite often. Grout is used in cases where the coatings have already been laid, and there is no way to dismantle them. In this case, the edges of the laminate coating must be treated with a silicone compound. This is to ensure that water does not get under the coating.

It is important to work out the seam itself. It must be more than half filled with silicone, otherwise the use of grout will be impractical: over time, either the coating will swell, or fungus and mold will appear.

The same grout that was used for the gaps between the tiles is also used at the junction of two dissimilar coatings.

sealant

This method is not suitable for everyone. A feature of liquid cork sealant is that after drying it acquires a light brown tint, so it will be noticeable on too dark or light coatings. However, if this option suits you, consider it lucky: neither the laminate nor the tile will then need a special moisture-proof impregnation of the seam, because this sealant perfectly protects against moisture.

The composition is applied either with a spatula or with a special mounting gun. However, these two methods are often combined: first they use a gun, and then the joint is “brought to mind” with a spatula.

Threshold

Situations when it is necessary to fix the threshold to process the junction of the laminate and tiles are much more common. This is due to the fact that the design with the help of the sill is more versatile, although less attractive from an aesthetic point of view. The threshold performs purely practical functions: hiding the difference in heights, delaying dirt, separating spaces. In particular, the threshold is often used in the design of arcuate slots.

The use of a nut has not only advantages, but also disadvantages, the list of which is not so small. So, housewives often note that washing floors with a threshold is somewhat more difficult than without it. Dirt gets clogged under the nut itself, and sometimes you have to make a lot of effort to clean it out. This has an extremely negative effect on the health of people prone to allergies: if dust with an allergen falls under the threshold, it will be difficult to get rid of it.

Another obvious disadvantage is injury risk. Quite often there are cases when people stumble on the sills and get injured. This is true both for families with children and for those with elderly people. It can be difficult for them to constantly step over the threshold. The situation becomes more complicated if the threshold is matched exactly to the color of the coatings, and it is difficult to see it. The contrast threshold does not always look appropriate and attractive, so often you have to sacrifice safety.

Thresholds can be set in several ways, each of which is determined by the type of threshold used. It should also be borne in mind that there are not only rigid thresholds, but also flexible ones, which makes it possible to draw curly joints.

It is necessary to consider in more detail the situations in which the use of the nut is fully justified:

• Covering up breaks. If the level of the floor or coatings is, in principle, even, but there is a very small difference, not exceeding a centimeter, the threshold must still be installed. From an aesthetic point of view, such a floor will look better than just a multi-level one.
• Dirt retention. We are talking about separating the hallway space from the rest of the apartment. So, the threshold can separate the area in which people take off their shoes, the area adjacent to the front door, or the entire corridor. In each of these cases, the threshold must be mounted for reasons of order.

• Division of space. In some cases, the installation of the threshold is the best way to zoning the premises. This applies to cases where the presence of a nut is the best stylistic solution possible. However, it should be noted that such cases are quite rare.
• Hiding flaws. If minor errors were made when trimming the coatings, and it is impossible to replace materials or hide flaws, then a threshold is used. It closes the seam, as a result of which such "troubles" are invisible. Since the width of the sills can vary, their decorative possibilities are practically unlimited.

Threshold types

By and large, thresholds are divided into two large groups: flexible and rigid. They are made from different materials, and it is the quality of the raw materials that determines one or another of their characteristics.

So, a wooden plinth in the vast majority of cases will be hard. The tree does not bend; in order to give it a rounded look, you will have to use special technology. It is logical to conclude that at home it will not work to bend a wooden baseboard. To fasten the plinth, use self-tapping screws. There are no wooden options with a hidden mount.

Metal adapters are an intermediate option. Depending on the width, they can be either rigid or flexible. Aluminum thresholds are most often used. Aluminum is a soft metal, so it bends easily. Only the bending radius is limited, which also depends on the width of the plank used.

Plastic sills are the cheapest option, which, in addition, gives a wide variety of options. There are plastic options "under the tree", simply painted, stylized as metal. Thus, it will be possible to choose any decorative option. Plastic bends well, especially if you first hold the sample in water at a temperature of 70 degrees. A standard 90 cm long plastic divider will easily fit into the bathtub.

The three listed varieties are used more often than others, but the variety of options does not end there. So, an interesting solution is a stainless steel tee threshold. It is used in high-tech interiors to emphasize the high-tech environment, because stainless steel is a shiny material that looks ultra-modern.

According to the method of fastening, profiles with hidden and open fastening are distinguished. In the second case, everything is simple: the nut is attached to the docking shock using self-tapping screws. In the first case, the connecting seam is left untreated, and the profile becomes T-shaped. In the future, it is simply driven into the seam with a rubber mallet. Two options are equally common: when the profile is simply driven in or when the seam is first processed with glue, and then the threshold is driven in.

If you have to use several thresholds, then two approaches are also used. In the first case, the fragments simply join, and the transitional place remains as it is. In the second option, special connectors are used that make the transition points more aesthetic and attractive. Also, such inserts have another function: they do not allow dirt and dust to clog into the gap between the sills.

Infrequently, special tapes for thresholds are used - the so-called moldings. The rationality of their use is not justified, however, some designers use them to give the room a special flavor.

Thus, there is a large selection of thresholds, each of which can be inscribed in one or another interior solution. Based on which joint of the laminate and tiles you need to arrange, its shape, depth and width, and you need to select the appropriate threshold option.

How to choose a threshold?

To choose a nut, you need to pay attention to several factors.

• Material. First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the material used in the production of the threshold. It should be borne in mind that not every material is suitable for a particular room. So, a tree is the most capricious of all options. It is possible to mount wooden elements only in those rooms in which there are no temperature changes, there is no high humidity, that is, it is better to refuse such decisions in the kitchen.

Plastic is more aesthetically pleasing than aluminum, but aluminum is more durable. It is necessary to take into account all the characteristics that the threshold must meet.

• Manufacturer. Despite the fact that the threshold is a small element, it is still important to consider what the reputation of the manufacturer is. A poor-quality option will not only quickly fail, lose its original appearance and deteriorate. If we take the plastic version as an example, it can be noted that a number of unscrupulous Chinese manufacturers use toxic low-grade raw materials, as a result of which, during operation, plastic releases harmful substances into the air that will adversely affect the health of households and their pets. This is very dangerous if there are small children in the house.

• Mounting method. Depending on where the threshold is installed and what its final appearance seems to be, you can either use self-tapping screws or a hidden mounting method that involves the use of glue or installation in a groove. The hidden method is more popular, as it is simpler and more aesthetically attractive than the open one, however, fastening with self-tapping screws is more reliable and easier to dismantle.

Often, designers use visible screw heads as a special technique to emphasize such an unusual detail as a threshold, if appropriate.

• Seam type. The choice of this or that threshold depends on what form the gap needs to be repaired. For straight joints, any of the options is suitable, and for curved ones - only plastic and aluminum, and even then they are not wide. Depth is also important, for example: if there is practically no gap between the coatings, then it will not work to fix the T-shaped profile here. It is best to look at options with a flat inner side, in the future, simply put them on glue, or simply refuse to use the nut.

• Joint size. This refers to the length of the junction. So, if the joint is small, it is best to make the threshold invisible. For this, flat options that are almost invisible on the floor are perfect. To enhance the effect, it is best to choose a threshold for the color of the coatings. If the joint crosses the entire room, then it will not work to hide the threshold. You can try to turn it into an additional decorative detail, interestingly beating it. In the first case, the choice of a plastic nut is more practical; in the second, you can choose any option.
• Target pursued. First you need to decide what the threshold is mounted for. The goal may be an attempt to hide floors of different levels, zoning of the room, and so on - there are a lot of options. It is also necessary to decide whether you want to emphasize the junction of the laminate and tiles or, conversely, hide it. In the first case, the best option would be to choose a threshold in a contrasting color, in the second, it will be necessary to choose a threshold that merges with the floor as much as possible. The photo clearly shows how each of the options transforms the room in its own way.

There are some useful tips on how to seal the target between tiles and laminate as beautifully, quickly and correctly as possible, moreover, so that the coatings retain their attractive appearance for a long time, do not deform:

• It is obligatory to provide coatings of the same level. Care must be taken to ensure that the threshold or podium equalize the height of the laminate and tiles. This is necessary so that when walking on such a floor, you do not stumble.
• And before laying the tiles, and before installing the laminate, take care of the optimal leveling of the floor, its preparation. This includes screed, cleaning of the coating, floor insulation, if provided.
• When installing a warm floor, be sure to buy materials suitable for laying on such a system. Although such materials are more expensive, you will be able to save on the fact that you will not have to re-repair after 3-5 years.
• When cutting materials, get good equipment. Ideally, rent one that is used in production, or seek help directly from a specialized company. In order for the slices to turn out as they should, you need to use templates. This is especially true for arcuate seams.

• To compensate for the difference in levels between the coatings, a substrate is laid under the laminate boards. It is important to pay attention to the fact that its thickness is sufficient, but not too thick, otherwise the laminate flooring will deform.
• When laying laminate and tile end-to-end, make sure there is an expansion gap between them. It should be 5-10 mm. During operation, the laminate swells, and if the tiles and laminate boards are laid too close to each other, the laminate will deform.
• Initially, tiles should be laid, and only then - laminate. This is due to the fact that during installation, the tile releases additional moisture, which will adversely affect the strength and appearance of the laminate flooring. It is better to play it safe and do the work in the right order.

There are many types of solutions for sealing the gap between laminate and tile, but none of them will work if the installation work is done incorrectly and irresponsibly. It is important to take care of the main things first, and then think about the little things. Act extremely carefully and deliberately, and then your apartment will be decorated with a beautifully executed laminate and tile floor option.