Juniper is a popular coniferous crop for decorating a garden or park. Reproduction of juniper by cuttings in the spring allows you to quickly and easily get strong young plants.
Features of the structure and reproduction of juniper
Evergreen coniferous junipers are recognized centenarians of the plant world. The average life expectancy of a shrub reaches 500 years, and individual specimens have already celebrated a thousand birthdays. For such longevity, the genus paid with slow growth rates, late entry into the season of flowering and fruiting. The first cones on junipers appear closer to the age of 10. In the future, it takes two years for the cones to ripen, and the seeds themselves need long-term stratification and germinate hard.
Due to the peculiarities of the structure and reproduction of juniper in nature, these plants are difficult to renew, and in nurseries and in ordinary summer cottages, vegetative methods are used to obtain new specimens.
However, it must be remembered that juniper shoots have an interesting feature. Even after rooting, becoming independent plants, they retain the "habits" acquired on the parent bush. Juniper shoots, located in the upper, central part of the crown, tend to develop, grow upwards. Peripheral branches eventually turn into bushes with a flattened, squat crown.
At home, propagating juniper cuttings has many advantages. Plants obtained in this way:
- retain all varietal properties of the parent specimen;
- 2–3 years earlier than seedlings, they reach the size of an adult shrub;
- better adapted to local conditions than large seedlings from the nursery;
- compared to seedlings show better growth rates.
When and how to prepare planting material? What is necessary for the rooting of juniper, and what are the features of caring for seedlings?
How to propagate juniper cuttings in spring
You can cut a bush from early spring, that is, from the time of cutting the plant, until autumn. However, experienced gardeners prefer to harvest cuttings in the spring, when a growth feast is observed. From April to May, semi-lignified shoots are cut from the already formed part of the crown with a sharp knife so that a thickened base of the branch remains on the handle.
The lower part of the cutting is 3–4 cm cleared of lateral shoots and needles, and then the exposed tip is treated with a root formation stimulator. Good results are obtained by immersing a juniper cutting intended for propagation in a jar of water, to which a little sugar is added. After a day, future seedlings can be transferred to a previously prepared soil mixture. 
The roots of the conifer will develop faster and best in an aerated loose substrate of equal parts of sand and. Perlite and crushed charcoal can be added to the mixture. The shrub is not afraid of the increased acidity of the soil, so it is not necessary to deoxidize it.
Before the juniper is propagated by cuttings in the spring, a small greenhouse or film greenhouse should be organized on the site or at home. Well-lit places are suitable for the plant, where the cuttings will not be afraid of prell due to stagnant moisture and cold wind. With due diligence, the shrub forms roots even in a pot covered with a bag.
Cuttings are planted in separate pots or in a common container at a distance of 5–8 cm from each other, at an angle to the ground. Planting material is buried by 3–4 cm, that is, no more than the length of the part of the shoot cleared of needles. After planting, the soil near the cuttings is compacted and watered abundantly.
Juniper loves the light, but direct sunlight inhibits the development of the seedling. Therefore, shading should be provided for the greenhouse.
Caring for cuttings during spring propagation of juniper
Further care for the cuttings during the propagation of juniper in the spring consists in regular spraying with warm settled water and airing as moisture evaporates from the soil surface. Excessive soil moisture is dangerous! A weak juniper root system can rot, and the plant will die. Ventilation will help balance the humidity and prevent condensation.
A detailed video on how to propagate juniper by cuttings will help you not to make mistakes and get strong planting material for your summer cottage on your own.
The rooting of most varieties of this coniferous culture requires at least 50–90 days. However, do not rush to plant shrubs for permanent residence.
Usually, seedlings are left at home or in a greenhouse until next spring, or transferred to open ground with a clod of earth to protect the roots that are not yet too branched and strong from damage. Such plants must be covered for the winter and protected from the penetration of rodents.
The time for planting juniper is chosen so that young shrubs have time to adapt before the onset of cold weather. If in the spring cuttings for juniper propagation were harvested early, strong seedlings will be able to overwinter. Otherwise, plants are grown at home until next April.
This method of breeding conifer is suitable for all species and varieties. But if you have to grow young specimens with a flattened or creeping crown shape, you can try to root low-lying shoots without cutting them off from the mother bush. Semi-lignified branches are bent to the ground, pinned with a strong wire hook and sprinkled with soil. This is done, as when propagating juniper cuttings, in the spring. In the second half of the summer, the cuttings form their own root system. Such a shrub, after separation from an adult plant, can be immediately planted in the ground.
Video about juniper cuttings
Juniper is a bright representative of the coniferous community, it can decorate any garden with itself and therefore enjoys special respect among landscape designers. This plant has a huge variety of forms, from creeping to columnar, its needles have shades from bluish-green to golden. It grows slowly, retains its shape well, perfectly strengthens the soil, especially on the slopes, is a long-lived plant: in nature there are specimens that are up to three thousand years old! On average, the life of a juniper is 500 - 600 years. The plant is thermophilic, light-loving, drought-resistant, does not tolerate stagnant moisture.
Due to the variety of species that differ both in height, shape, and color shade, juniper can be used as a hedge, to decorate paths, rockeries and borders, tapeworms in flower beds and lawns, large dark spots on the far background of the garden. In addition, junipers have healing, and primarily bactericidal, properties, and this allows them not only to decorate gardens and parks, but also to perform an important health-improving function.
In nature, junipers reproduce very poorly by seeds, since seeds require a long (up to six months) stratification, young seedlings grow very slowly. Only in the tenth year of life they give the first fruits. Artificial breeding of juniper from seeds is unproductive, therefore, most often they resort to its reproduction by rooting cuttings. Rooted cuttings give faster growth, they can be used much earlier than seedlings in decorative gardening. Although the percentage of rooting depends on the plant variety (some take root worse), but, nevertheless, it remains quite high.
You can root juniper cuttings from early spring to late autumn, but April and May are considered the best time for this - the time of the most active growth and development of the plant. For rooting, it is best to use semi-lignified shoots from old branches from the middle part of the plant. Cuttings taken from young branches take much longer to root and have a much lower percentage of rooting. A very important point in the propagation of juniper: cuttings taken from the ends of the side branches will continue to continue the life of the “side branch”, that is, strive to grow in breadth, and not up. If it is required to obtain planting material for columnar forms, then it is necessary to choose cuttings located closer to the central trunk, which tend to grow vertically. It is best to cut the cuttings with a sharp garden knife along with a “heel” - a small thickening at the point where the cutting is attached to the main branch. Do not be upset if you failed to cut the cutting with a "heel", such cuttings also have a good chance of giving roots. Harvested cuttings must be freed from twigs and needles to a height of 3 - 4 cm from the base - this section of the stem is just to form the future root system. Before planting, it would be good to treat the cuttings with some kind of root formation stimulator, for example, heteroauxin, root. You can hold the cuttings for a day in a weak sugar solution before planting.
The soil for rooting cuttings should be loose, breathable. You can use a mixture of peat and sand in equal parts. It is important to remember that conifers love acidic soil, so lime, ash, crushed eggshells and other soil deoxidizers should not be added to the juniper substrate. It is best to root juniper cuttings in a dry, warm greenhouse, or in a ridge covered with a film. But, if conditions do not allow, rooting can also be done in an ordinary flower pot. Using a pencil or stick, you need to make holes in the soil 3–4 cm deep at a distance of 5–8 cm from each other, then insert the prepared juniper cuttings into these holes, compact the soil around them, pour well and cover with a film. If direct sunlight falls on the greenhouse, then it is necessary to build shading. Juniper vitally needs a large amount of light, but during the period of rooting of the cuttings, the direct sun can become fatal for them. If the cuttings take root in a pot or bowl, then put a plastic bag on top of the pot, and then install the pot on a window with diffused lighting. Watering the cuttings should no longer be until they are fully rooted.
If you have the opportunity to devote a lot of time to your seedlings, then it is better to root juniper cuttings without using a covering film, since under the film the plants grow weaker and less hardened than in the open air. When rooting cuttings without a film, they need to be sprayed 5-6 times a day from a water sprayer to maintain optimal air humidity. Since the open ground will evaporate a lot of moisture, the cuttings will need small waterings as the soil dries. But, in no case should the soil be too wet, because junipers cannot tolerate excess water.
The first roots of the cuttings will appear 50-70 days after planting. seedlings immediately after rooting are not worth it, since the roots are still very tender and thin and can be easily injured during transplantation. Therefore, if possible, it is best to leave rooted cuttings in place until next year to allow the root system to grow and become stronger. If this is not possible, then the transplantation of rooted cuttings should be done very carefully, using small tools, taking out the seedlings together with a clod of earth and placing them in the prepared holes in a permanent place with it.
A few more words should be said about the rooting of creeping varieties of juniper. Here the situation is somewhat simpler: pin enough branches for rooting to the ground and cover with a small amount of soil from above, freeing the rooting site from small branches. During the growing season, the sprinkled section of the branch will give roots and, after separation of the branch from the mother plant, it will become an independent plant.
Seedlings of this coniferous breed are sold in specialized garden stores, but if desired, they can be grown on their own. It is important to know how to properly propagate juniper so that the plant takes root and quickly grows. Most often, vegetative breeding methods are used.
Methods and features of reproduction
In the absence of a plant on the site, you can use seed material. But this method is rarely used, because it is complex and time consuming. The first shoots may appear only after a year, so stratification in the garden or at home in the refrigerator is necessary. Varietal characteristics are rarely transmitted by this method of breeding.
The most valuable varieties of juniper are propagated by grafting. The method is quite complicated, it requires certain knowledge and skills. For this reason, cuttings are carried out in most cases. The shoots of an evergreen perennial take root well, at first they are grown at home or in greenhouses. Creeping forms allow breeding by layering.
cuttings
When propagating juniper with this method, shoots growing upwards are cut off. Lateral branches can give a horizontal development of a new plant, used in the bonsai technique, but depriving the specimen of varietal characteristics. When grafting juniper, the deadlines for the work should be observed, and favorable conditions for rooting should be created for the seedlings.
Advantages of the method:
- preservation of varietal characteristics;
- the resulting seedlings are highly viable;
- a strong root system is formed;
- grow to the required size several years faster than when sowing seeds.
To obtain juniper seedlings, the necessary conditions are required - to properly prepare cuttings, build a mini-greenhouse, maintain heat and humidity at the required level. Planting material for growing sprawling bushes is recommended to be taken from the middle of the plant, and for vertical ones - from the top. It is permissible to store no more than 2 days, wrapped in a damp cloth.
For cuttings, one-year-old shoots from mature trees or shrubs aged 8-10 years are suitable. Cut so that a small heel separates from the main branch - a lignified piece of bark. The length of the cut shoot can be in the range of 10-25 cm, the lower part must be cleaned from the leaves.
The length of the cut shoot can be in the range of 10-25 cm.
The greenhouse will protect the juniper from drafts, sudden changes in temperature, dry air. The room should be warm and light. Direct sunlight on the cuttings should not be allowed. At the same time, it is important to periodically ventilate, before removing the package, gradually harden, accustom the seedlings to the environment.
On a note! Rooting juniper in water is undesirable, since peeling of the bark is possible, the viability of the cutting is reduced.
Work period
Breeding conifers in this way is desirable to produce in the spring. Collect planting material at the end of February in order to grow a viable seedling in 2 months. If you wish to plant a juniper in the fall, cut the cuttings in late July - early August. It is advisable not to transfer to open ground before winter itself, so rooted cuttings can be left at home until spring. Before planting in open ground for such specimens, hardening is carried out.
Temperature regime
Optimal indicators for rooting juniper cuttings are 23-25°C, a temperature increase of more than 26°C negatively affects the process. After the appearance of the first roots and until the formation of the first buds, it is recommended to keep the planting material at 18-20°C. It is especially important to observe the temperature regime for cuttings cut from a young growth.
Procedure
Step-by-step cuttings significantly increase the chances of getting a healthy plant in a short time.
Juniper breeding point by point:
- Cut off the heel with a sharp knife.
- Clean the lower part of the needles, trying not to damage the bark.
- Treat the cut site with growth stimulator powder or paste.
- Prepare a loose, moisture- and breathable, nutrient substrate. You can mix peat and river sand in equal proportions by adding charcoal and perlite.
- Pour a drainage layer of expanded clay into the container. Fill the rest of the volume with the prepared soil mixture, leaving 2-3 cm to the edge.
- Juniper cuttings are deepened by 3-4 cm, if necessary, put a support in the form of a stone or stick. It is permissible to root several cuttings in one flower pot, placing them at a distance of 6-8 cm from each other.
- Transfer the container to the greenhouse or cover with a bag. Put in a bright, warm place.
- Provide basic care - maintaining a microclimate, periodic watering.
Waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed, but drying out will also negatively affect young roots.
Waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed, but drying out will also negatively affect young roots. It is important to ventilate the greenhouse, remove the accumulated condensate. The cutting will begin to take root in 20-30 days, but it will take 2-3 months to form a sufficient root system. Further cultivation is carried out in open ground. The seedling of common juniper and other upright species should be planted vertically, varieties with a horizontal crown - at a slight slope.
layering
This method of breeding conifers is suitable for those whose plant is already growing on the site. The method is used only for juniper creeping along the ground, since the branches must touch the surface of the ground, for example, some varieties of the Cossack species. Reproduction of a shrub from a branch is carried out during the active growing season. Rooting takes 6-12 months.
Reproduction of a shrub from a branch is carried out during the active growing season.
Preliminary preparation consists in abundant watering of the mother plant, loosening and introducing peat, rotted humus and river sand into the soil. Bend the one-year-old shoot to the ground, fix with hairpins. Periodically loosen around the layering. Spud the rooting place, water it. It is allowed to separate the seedling only after it has grown the root system and developed the aerial part.
Rooting is desirable to do in the spring.
Juniper is most easily propagated by vegetative means. The choice of method depends on the type of culture. Breeding of creeping forms is carried out by layering, vertical varieties - by cuttings. Rooting is desirable to do in the spring, so that during the period of active vegetation the plant has time to adapt to the new environment.
Junipers are highly decorative, winter well in mid-latitudes, create a healthy microclimate around them. The simplest and most effective method of propagation of all its varietal forms is cuttings.
Since representatives of the cypress family are considered extremely unpretentious, inexperienced gardeners think that it is enough to stick a cutting into the ground for rooting.
However, in most cases this approach fails. In this article I will tell you how to choose and plant a cutting correctly, prepare the soil, and take care of the seedling in the future.
Ephedra of the cypress family are considered centenarians. Like all plants with a long life cycle, junipers grow very slowly and reach fruiting age late.
The first cone berries appear in them by the age of 9-10, and it takes 2-3 years for them to mature. In addition, long-term stratification is needed for seed germination, seedlings often turn out to be unviable, with a weak root system.
Note: due to the slow pace of life in nature, junipers are very difficult to renew. Therefore, in nurseries and at home, the cutting method is more often used for reproduction.
Coniferous shrubs grown in this way will differ in the following characteristics:
- They show a higher growth rate than seedlings - they reach adult parameters 3-4 years earlier.
- They retain all the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.
- The degree of adaptation to specific conditions is higher than that of purchased seedlings.
The success of growing juniper from cuttings depends on many factors: the choice of mother bush, cutting time, agricultural technology, growing conditions.
Timing of cuttings
Regardless of the variety, cuttings can be harvested from the moment the snow melts until autumn:
- The best period for cutting juniper is the beginning of spring, when the juice begins to move and the buds wake up. Planting material will take root this season.
- Possible summer harvesting cuttings. It is carried out in the first decade of June - when spring active growth ends and lignification of spring growth begins. In some varieties, root formation can stretch over time - only callus will form in the first year, and full-fledged roots will form by the next season.
- In autumn, in September-October, lignified shoots are cut. They are planted in the ground next spring.
An important point: the formation of the first roots in junipers occurs on average after 25-30 days, it takes at least 2 months to form a viable root system.
Therefore, they are not transplanted immediately into the garden, leaving them to take root until the next season.
The choice of material for cuttings
Junipers grown from cuttings can be both lush and healthy, and weak and crooked. It's all about how and from what place the planting material is taken. In order for the grown conifer to meet your expectations, use the following recommendations:
- For the role of queen cells, choose young bushes of 5-8 years of age, since the ability to form a root system in junipers decreases over time.
- The mother plant should be healthy, with a dense, symmetrical, even crown.
- The place of cutting cuttings in creeping varietal forms does not matter much. The main thing is to choose a developed spreading branch, which is regularly exposed to the sun's rays (important for variegated and brightly colored forms).
- In pyramidal, columnar and bush species, cuttings are cut from the central branches of 1-3 orders (above). If you choose the shoot of a side branch growing horizontally, then the bush will subsequently grow in breadth.
- For cuttings, select shoots with a healthy apical bud and a growing cone, otherwise the seedlings will become unnecessarily bushy.
An important point: it is better to harvest cuttings from shoots on which lignification has already begun. In too young, as in too old branches, the percentage of rooting is much lower.
Procurement of planting material
Cutting juniper shoots should be done in cloudy weather or in the early morning - this will help reduce the evaporation of moisture from the cuts.
Do not touch branches that are too thin, as they will use up the supply of nutrients before rooting occurs. For cuttings, use one-year-old shoots, about 25 cm long.
From the trunk and large skeletal branches, cuttings are taken with a piece of wood (“heel”), which contributes to better rooting. For this reason, it is better not to cut off the cuttings, but to tear them off with a quick downward movement. If the tongue is long, it is cut.
When a cutting is taken from a large shoot, a pruner or a sharp knife is used. The cut should capture 1-1.5 cm of lignified area, which can be recognized by the transition of green bark to brown.
The lower segment of the petioles is 3.5-4.0 cm free from needles and overgrowth. It is better to do this with your hands, since the wounds formed during tearing off also stimulate the process of root formation.
Before planting, it is advisable to sprinkle the cuttings with agents that accelerate the formation of roots: "Heteroauxin", "Korevin", preparations based on succinic acid.
Note: it is not worth soaking planting material in solutions of root formation activators - with prolonged exposure to moisture, the bark will begin to peel off.
Soil preparation
The prepared planting material is planted in a specially prepared substrate. Since the rooting of coniferous crops is a long process, it is important to properly prepare the soil mixture:
- It should be loose, light, with good aeration.
- Junipers love soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, so do not add ash, lime, or shells to the substrate.
- Juniper cuttings take root well in peat mixed with an equal volume of: a) sand, b) perlite, c) vermiculite, d) leaf / sod land.
If you plan to root several petioles, then you can use a flower pot for planting. Drainage is laid out at the bottom, then a layer of 15 cm of soil mixture, the top is sprinkled with sand. When there is a lot of planting material, it is planted in greenhouses, large boxes or greenhouses.
Note: if you doubt the quality of the components of the substrate, then pre-disinfect them by steaming or spill them with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Planting juniper cuttings
For planting, simply sticking shoots into the ground is not enough. Proper landing is carried out in stages:
- Using a wooden peg or pencil, make holes in the substrate at an angle of 45-50º. The gap between the holes is 5-10 cm.
- To a depth of 3-5 cm, obliquely plant the cuttings.
- Compact the soil around them so that there are no voids left.
- Pour gently through a sieve or sprinkler nozzle, trying to moisten all layers of the soil.
- Cover the cuttings with a film, frame or transparent cap.
An important point: do not let the sun's rays directly fall into the greenhouse - junipers take root better in the shade.
Intensive root formation in conifers occurs at a substrate and ambient temperature not lower than + 21 ... + 24 º C and humidity in the range of 95-100%.
Care after landing
Cuttings begin to actively take root 2-4 months after planting. For different varieties, the time frame may differ, while root formation in the summer may stop and resume by autumn. During this period, the roots are not yet gaining strength, they remain fragile and weak, so young junipers are left in the greenhouse until next spring.
To prevent stagnant moisture, watering should be done with caution, only when the soil dries. To moisten the soil, water heated to ambient temperature is used. To prevent diseases, water the seedlings with fungicidal solutions several times a year.
Note: since the seedlings will spend about a year in the greenhouse, you need to maintain the transparency of the covering film.
The lighting should be bright, but diffused, as the light stimulates the production of the phytohormone responsible for root formation.
After the juniper cuttings take root and form growths, you can gradually harden off by opening and ventilating the greenhouse. For the winter, they are insulated with burlap, covering material or leaves.
The following year, young bushes are transplanted into the garden. To do this, the plant is transferred together with an earthen clod into a prepared pit.
Propagation by cuttings
An alternative method is suitable for junipers with creeping and flattened crowns. In the spring, during sap flow, the lower semi-lignified branches are bent down, laid in a groove, fixed in this position and sprinkled with soil.
Previously, small shoots and needles are removed from the rooted area. During the growing season, roots will have time to form on the layering. After separating the branch from the mother bush, such a seedling can be transplanted anywhere.
Juniper cuttings are the most affordable method of obtaining benign and viable seedlings at home. Subject to the agrotechnics of cultivation, the method allows you to quickly propagate coniferous crops on your site.
There are several methods for propagating juniper plants at home. For this purpose, seeds, cuttings are used, new specimens are obtained from the branch and layering. But not all of these methods are equally effective and allow you to quickly get young plants. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages, and also requires compliance with the necessary conditions for successful breeding of juniper.
Popular types of junipers
In modern landscape design, juniper is very popular. Juniper plants are distinguished by a variety of shapes, color, plasticity and unpretentiousness. They are suitable for the implementation of the ideas of designers, as they perfectly tolerate a haircut. Depending on the species, juniper can take the form of a sprawling tree, a lush bush, or creep along the ground. Several types are the most popular.
Juniper Cossack is found in nature in the wooded part of the European territory and in many parts of Asia. Usually plants of this species are winter-hardy creeping shrubs. They are undemanding to the composition of the soil, love the light and perfectly tolerate the lack of moisture. Thanks to these qualities, their parts are used to strengthen the slopes.
Creeping juniper is also called horizontal. In nature, plants of this species live in North America. This ground cover plant is used as a decoration for retaining walls and slopes.
Varieties of common juniper are distinguished by their endurance and ability to adapt to adverse conditions. They tolerate frost, lack of light and water well. These plants are highly decorative, and their slow development is an advantage for solving some design problems, for example, such varieties are suitable for growing bonsai.
Juniper rocky in nature lives in North America. These plants have an attractive conical shape, thanks to which they have gained popularity in landscape design. They are used for landscaping parks and squares, as well as for creating hedges.
Growing from seeds
Reproduction of juniper from seeds is a complex process. Even in natural conditions, this method is rare. Plants appear only a few years after the seeds enter the soil, and fruiting is possible after 10 years.
In practice, such propagation of juniper is practically not used due to the length and difficulty of the process and low germination.
At home, in order to successfully grow a plant in this way, the seed material is first stratified, that is, subjected to cold treatment. To do this, from autumn they need to be sown in boxes with soil and stored under snow until spring (at least 4 months). Then, if the seed coat is very dense, which is the case with some types of juniper, it must be scarified to speed up germination, that is, mechanically damaged or treated with acid. The easiest way to do this is to take two boards covered with sandpaper and rub the material between them.
In May, the prepared seeds are sown on the beds, planting to a depth of 2–3 cm. Then they are mulched and watered as needed. After the emergence of seedlings, they are covered from the sun for the first 2 weeks. Be sure to loosen the soil and weed out the weeds. When the seedlings reach the age of three, they can be dug up along with a clod of earth and planted in a permanent place.
Reproduction by cuttings
At home, cuttings are most often used to propagate juniper plants. They take root better, successfully acclimatize and develop faster.
The most successful time for grafting is in the spring, in which case strong roots will form in the seedlings by the end of summer. In autumn, young plants can be placed in open ground, arranging a small shelter for wintering. If cuttings are made in the summer, then the root system will not have time to get stronger. In this case, in winter, the plants should be at home or in the country house indoors.
For successful reproduction, perform the following steps:
- 1. Cuttings are harvested in cloudy or rainy weather. To do this, take branches 10–15 cm long and separate them with a sharp knife along with a piece of trunk wood.
- 2. All needles and branches are removed from them to a height of 3–4 cm from the cut point. Prepared cuttings can be immediately planted in the ground. If this cannot be done, then for some time they are able to stand in a jar of water, but not more than 3 hours.
- 3. To root the cuttings, they are planted in tall boxes with drainage holes, filled with a mixture of peat and humus in equal parts. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom, and sand (3–4 cm) is poured over the soil. The cuttings are deepened by 3 cm at an angle of 60 degrees, keeping a distance of at least 7 cm between them.
- 4. The boxes are positioned so that they are illuminated by diffused sunlight. Juniper does not like too high humidity, so watering is rarely done. Top dressing during this period is also not needed.
- 5. When planting in the ground in a permanent place, the cuttings are treated with growth stimulants. If the creeping juniper breeds, then it is placed horizontally, all other varieties - vertically.
